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Look what came in the mail today!
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0064.jpg Should be getting the other parts for the exhaust sometime next week. Also plan on working on the car today so I should have a few more pictures and what not. |
I dont get it - big red plastic bags? How will that help ;)
You should put off all that work and come to the drive tomorrow, I'll be down in lynchburg for it, www.thecvmc.com Good luck man... |
Can't, I have no other vehicle, so I must put this one back together asap. I need to get done.
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Alright, well I inspected the Apex seals. They are the classic 3 piece mazda style apex seals and they all measure within .1mm of 7mm in total height, there is very, very, very little warpage aka, unable to measure the warpage without causing the pieces to separate. So now I stand on the threashold trying to decide on if I should buy a new set of Apex seals (2 piece, or 1 piece) and if I do buy a new set, do I want to have them cryogenically treated or not... I'd like increased durability and reliability, but I'm not sure if it would be worth the increase in price. Any suggestions?
Here's some pictures of what's been accomplished so far: Drilled, and tapped secondary fuel rail. At some point in the future I may get rid of this and go with a KGParts fuel rail instead. But in the meantime I think this will work out nicely. http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0067.jpg Rough look of where I want the new radiator to sit. I plan on relocating the oil cooler an inch or so forward and dropping the radiator down to have a complete perpendicular set up (no mo' angles). http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0065.jpg Notice that there is no more "webbing" to restrict the movement or placement of the radiator. http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0066.jpg |
Well I just ordered a 6PI large street port template and the 6PI inserts from pineapple racing and they should be here by either the end of the week or sometime next week.
Once I break apart the last bit of the engine (the lock bolt is still giving me trouble and the little pulley thing is still giving me some trouble) down and pull the rotor and inspect the iron and housing I'll order the rebuild kit and apex seals from atkins and start the process of porting and building it to handle 2-300 hp. :D |
Got a few parts that came in the mail. Some for modification of the engine, but most for the exhaust construction coming up. Here are some pictures of everything I received.
The parts ORGY: http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0068.jpg Large Street Port Template: http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0069.jpg 6PI Inserts (yes... for a turbo project): http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0070.jpg SS 3in Flex Tube: http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0071.jpg SS O2 Bungs: http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0072.jpg SS Magnaflow 2.5in in/out-let perforated tube construction: http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0073.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0074.jpg |
Nice!
Should be fun getting all that welded up and ready to install! |
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Here's the ported throttle body. I removed secondary throttle plates (and the associated hardware) and ported it a little bit. I didn't polish it as I just got lazy... what can I say. It won't take much for me to polish it up better but figure I might as well put it all back together.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0075.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0076.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0077.jpg |
are you going to plug the bores for the removed shaft?
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Did a little more work:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...0309091925.jpg Installed 6-Port Induction Inserts. http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...0309091926.jpg Finished cleaning all the housings and irons. http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...309091926a.jpg Found the limit of increasing the port opening of the upper intake. It's an 1/8" http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...0309091927.jpg Pile of stuff that came off the car and will either be sold, scrapped, or re-installed (like the water pump and housing) http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...309091927a.jpg Some more. http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...0309091928.jpg New parts to be installed. http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...0309091929.jpg Oil Pan prepped for welding the oil return bung for the turbo. I'm still a little curious on what I should do with the BAC. Should I keep it? Should I scrap it? I just don't know. I'm tempted to just scrap it and have a friend either weld it shut or I go get a block off plate cut for it. I just don't know. Any suggestions? |
Keep it.
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Well it's decided then. I'll keep it.
Got the turbo to v-band adapter. http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0078.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0079.jpg Will probably hook it up to the turbo today. ...Well, went and tried to hook it up to the turbo today and it's the wrong size adapter. No fear though, I called atp and they'll let me exchange the adapter for another one. Hopefully this time it will be the correct size. |
You'll want the BAC, I know you already decided to keep it, but I'm just giving you more reasons too! Its worth having if you have any accessories on the car at all....
Hurry up and rebuild that motor already! |
lol, I just ordered the seals today. Should be here thurs/friday. Will hopefully start and finish porting the day before the seals arrive, rebuild on the following day. should be fun.
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Got some welding done
I'm waiting for the pictures to be pulled from my phone and I'll be posting them shortly. I got some welding done on the exhaust which is nice to get started. I've got the lower portion of the down pipe and billow welded up, a portion of the Y-Pipe, and welded some pipe to the resonator.
To top it off I got delivery of some layout fluid so I'll be able to start porting the irons tomorrow. On top of that all the seals for the rebuild are being shipped out to me as are all the stainless steel flanges. http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...0310092305.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...310092237a.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...0310092236.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...0310092237.jpg |
Where did that flex pipe come from and how flexible is it? The 4" I have isn't flexible enough so when the motor goes back in, I'll be cutting it off and welding on a new one.
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The flex pipe is a 6" that came from performance-curve.com It's a local shop (located in roanoke,va). Pretty good deal from what I remember. Let me dig up the actual link to the specific part.
http://www.performance-curve.com/ind...TS&Category=41 The one I got was for 28 bucks. |
Another day, another time spent grinding, cutting, and well... making tons of dust. I altered the Lower Intake Manifold (LIM) to give more room for the turbo without sacrificing the 6PI actuation. I also ported my junk iron for practice. It's a lot easier than I thought it would be. I would still like some pointers on porting if anyone has any they'd like to share. I'm not too sure if I should port/polish the runner to the new port shape. The shape itself isn't much bigger and I don't really see any benefit in doing that.... Maybe on the intermediate housing, but we'll see. Well--here's some pictures.
Here's what the LIM started as: http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0080.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0081.jpg Here's about half way through shaving it. http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0084.jpg And this is pretty much done. http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0094.jpg Here's my port job on the junk iron: http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0082.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0083.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0085.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0086.jpg Ported http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0087.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0088.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0089.jpg I didn't really have time to port the good irons so I prepped them for porting: http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0093.jpg After that I went ahead and cut some of the metal stock I bought today to get it prepped and ready for welding and replacing the bent stock cross member: http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0090.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0091.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0092.jpg The angle iron doesn't have any tape holding it up. The cut is just right enough to have the interference hold it up. It's also level and straight. It's ready for welding. |
Porting - take your time. You can always take more off. A little difficult to put it back.
Try to get the edges of the port a little more strait and soft The runners you should finish off with some 220 grit rolls, and then the flapper. I haven't ported anything in YEARS some I'm sure someone whos done it more regularily could chime in. Although next week I will be doing all my porting work sooooooooo. |
Well I ported the irons. Did an okay job. The ports are clean and for the most part are about as close to the markings of the template as I'm comfortable doing by carbide bit. I've beveled the edges to soften them out a little bit using a jewelers file. I don't think they're going to do any damage to any seals that pass by them. Whether it be side seals or corner seals.
I cleaned the rotors too by hand and I noticed something peculiar. One rotor has smooth faces, the other has a textured face. Did Mazda alter how they did rotors one year compared to another? I also removed all seals and springs from the rotors and prepped the seal locations for seals. All in all I think I'm just about ready to start rebuilding the engine. Lets see if I can actually put it all together without issues. :D Here's hopin'. I also received in the mail today a package full of stainless steel flanges and a dump tube for the waste gate. I will probably watch my TIG welding friend make works of art out of them. A word on the flanges. They're not water jet cut or laser cut. They seem to be cast stainless steel and then put through a machining process. Although the thickness is .5" there is what seems to be a severe lack of symmetry on the 3 hole flanges. The V-band flanges however seem quite good on quality. The upper portion of the down pipe should be welded up as well tomorrow. Speaking of welding it looks like tomorrow is going to be a very big welding day. I have the replacement cross member that will need to be welded up. The hood support that will be welded up as well, and to top it all off I have a hole in my oil pan for the oil return line from the turbo that's going to have a bung welded to it. While this is all going on I plan on rebuilding the engine or at the very least getting it started. I'd love to have it completely assembled and ready to be installed with the oil pan and what not by the end of the night--though I won't be installing it until after I paint the engine bay... man, there's no rest for this project. Pictures will for tomorrow will be forthcoming at some point I'm sure. |
well engine didn't get put back together because I just noticed these:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0100.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0101.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0102.jpg Both stationary bearings are shot. Already shot a PM to Atkins about replacing them with stock ones since the 3 window bearing is too expensive for me at the moment. However we did get a lot of welding done: http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0105.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0106.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0107.jpg http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0108.jpg That new cross member has replaced my bent to hell one and is sturdy enough to hold my full weight (175 lbs). I still have to cut some of it off to allow more breathing room for the oil cooler, but that location for the cross member supports the intercooler as well as the oil cooler. It's coming together. |
Well, tried my hand at welding for the first time today. I finally got the hang of Flux core mig welding by the time I had put so much pigeon crap on the piece that it looked like it had some major... Herpes....
We hit it with a flap disk for a few and then put some glaze on it and just went to town with the por15. I don't really care what the engine bay looks like so much as I want it protected. If I had as much time as I want I would have removed everything from the engine bay and just did it. Unfortunately I didn't, and as such I went ahead and just POR15 every thing. I will probably go back and touch it up a little bit on monday but for the most part the engine bay is done. |
So should we start an official race to see who gets done first? Looks good so far.
Why the flux core? I HATE flux core welding. Even if I'm doing it outside, I shield as much breeze as I can with my body or hands, and crank the gas up. I can't stand flux core welding |
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As for the race... Don't tempt me. Bad things happen when I race to finish something. I'm already perturbed in my time line of the engine bay. Some things are not perfect, but I'm having to make up time with doing a shoddy paint job (by that I mean in-ability to actually remove all clips and plastic pieces prior to paint, removal of the passenger harness, etc). Also my help put too much paint on per coat so it started running. I'm going to have to touch those up on monday or so. sigh... I'm hoping to actually start the original fabrication process for the turbo manifold and exhaust on monday. I'm still waiting to hear back from ATP about the exchange of goods I sent in. I also have to figure out a way to enlarge the y-pipe piece to accept a 3-in pipe instead of a 2.5in. It's a little late to send it back and get an exchange to a 3-in to 2 2.5-in y-pipe, so I'm thinking I may reduce the entrance pipe and cut a transition piece to actually be welded in place of the original pipe. If it all goes well, and I'm able to get the services of a welder as well as all the materials I need; I hope to be finished by the end of the week. I doubt that will happen though. We shall see. |
Get some pics up of the bay when you can, I'm eager to see it!
I think this is the year of the FC. I'm glad there are good FC guys in this group... should make for a fun ROTM next year though :) |
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As for the ROTM, i highly doubt I'd even be a competitor. Too many mismatched body panels. |
Got to go to the garage today for about 20 minutes. I was able to do a little work, but nothing extreme. I was able to verify that the larger adapter for Vband will work with my turbo but requires slight modification to the mounting holes (I'll snap a picture of it next time i'm out there). I also was able to verify that the V-Band ebay specials I picked up are not exactly the correct size for the internal (they're a little under). I figure I may either bevel or remove enough material to make either a smooth transition or a straight shot through. But there's a good 1/4" reduction (total, about 1/8" all round). Granted it would make the exhaust flow turbulent I just don't feel like throwing in more unknowns right after the turbo.
I also have No Limit Industries working on my fuel rails and hope to see those in the not too distant future. Didn't have time to fix up the engine anymore or set end shaft play--I however was able to identify 1 O-ring I didn't see before. It was for the CAS. Go figure. I still need to figure out some of the other O-rings and I'll ask about them when I post the picture. Well, with out further delay here's some pictures that were requested: http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0110.jpg What's the Oring next to the CAS one? And what about all those little ones? I imagine the two larger ones are for the oil pedestal. I know the nylon one is for the front cover. hmmm..... http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0111.jpg New oil pan. Check out the new oil return flange that's been welded on there. http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0112.jpg Engine bay after paint. It's quite the contrast to what it once was. http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...9/IMG_0113.jpg Here's my first welding experience after it's been painted over. What do you think? Pretty trashy huh? Yeah, that's what I think too. |
Umm, as far as the orings, the oval one is the OMP, then there is the CAS one is the thick big one. The two larger ones look odd, they seem a little thin to be the filter pedistal, and I have no clue about the small ones.
What do the seals for the long tension bolts look like? Is it possible that the small orings go where the dowels are? I vaugely remember finding orings in that area when I dis-assembled my old S5 13B n/a. PS: I'm still a newb at this, i hope others can give more info. |
Already installed the Dowel o-rings as well as the tension bolt ones, so I'm not too sure about those little ones either. I haven't taken off the OMP so that's probably why I didn't see an o-ring of the similar type.
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Max was right - the oval one is for your OMP. The smaller ones do look like dowel o-rings, but if you've got all those in place - I'm not entirely sure off hand, it'll take me a min to think about it (maybe on the front cover where the tension bolts go through, I'm not sure).
The other orings may go to the oil pick up tube in your pan. I believe there is one o-ring there at least. I haven't pulled apart an NA engine in a while either.... although, they shouldn't be much different. |
No, the oil pickup tube uses a gasket.
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After much consideration I have decided to change the way I'm going with this project. I've been able to locate a nice LS9 for not at all that much and have decided that I'm just going to go ahead and drop that motor in instead of my triangle powered monstrosity. I still plan on being done within the next two weeks or so, but we'll see. Anyways here's a few pictures:
APRIL FOOLS! |
seriously, i would have killed you, lol....
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I don't see any pics =[
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Sorry, I'll take pics next time I'm up there. I have the engine about 95% together right now. I put in the oil pan, the sensors and the front cover. I have found out however that the coolant temp sensor on the S5 is not compatible with the S4 temp sensor. So i'm going to have to re-do that part of the harness. No biggie. I still have to get the pilot bearing out and replace it. Then the engine will be going back into the car for final assembly and fabrication of the turbo manifold. I do have one question before I do this however. At what location should the front Key be (or rear key for that matter) be in relation to the markings on the pulley? I have the yellow mark 90*'s from the key I believe, but I couldn't find the procedure to ensure it was accurate in the FSM portion I had with me. Any help on that front?
I also have started the process of getting the gauges installed. The oil cooler is about 90% hung, need to redrill a hole because my help can't drill straight. Once that's in place I'll be able to go ahead and start working on making some ss -10 oil lines. Should be good. |
When the keyway is @ 270*, or pointing towards the exhaust ports on a 90* angle, the engine is @ TDC. There are no markings on the pulley for 0* so I made one. There is nothing in the FSM about checking the timing/pulley/hub becuase the pulleys and hubs are a matched set. They are also matched to the front cover. Basically when you start interchanging pulleys and hubs and front covers, you run into potential timing mark problems. This is something that I had never heard about until recently but Classic Auto knows all about it as well.
There's not going to be anything about it in the FSM because it's not something that can be adjusted. The hub has a key and can only go one way. The bolts for the pulley are offset, so it can only go one way. Basically there is no adjustment in there so the factory wouldn't cover any adjustment becuase, well, there is none. Mazda probably also didn't think people would be interchanging so many parts either which is why they are all slightly different. Hell, if you order a new front pulley from the dealer, you get a new hub as well. I'm surprised that it's not more well known. A few degrees of timing is the difference between a great running engine and a pile of door stops/paperweights. I would be VERY careful with the pulley/hub/front cover combo. I myself am using an FD pulley (no timing marks) with an RE hub and front cover. What I did was transfer marks from the RE pulley to the FD pulley and then triple check to make sure everything is on the up & up.. About the small o-rings - the pick-up tube uses a gasket the dowels or tension bolts don't go into the front cover so it can't be those I'm thinking it's the two small o-rings that are under the oil-filter pedastal |
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For convience I marked on the hub where the Key is so I'll be able to rotate it to the exhaust ports and it will be at TDC. I'll check to see if the markings line up and then I'll either adjust the pulley's or leave 'em 'cause I got lucky. I'll also try to snap a few pictures for everyone. Sorry I've been slacking so much on this. |
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