hmm, I can maybe locate one personally through a friend, but not 100% sure. Zach can get with you about loaning yours. Maybe this weekend we can do more testing.

One of you guys email me the map currently in the ECU, please.

Doing that now.

If you have the time that would be great, lunch/beer on me!

What is this thing you speak of?

An oscilloscope

Oh, OK! My dad used to have one of those, I'll see if he still has one or at least access to one.

Finally the issue I have been dealing with since before DGRR has been resolved and the car is running now and did so for more than one day! The issue was with the trigger sensor connector polarity.

After receiving the harness I got all the wiring back the way I like it, again. A little more tuning and the car should be a reliable driver. Got her all cleaned up this week and ready for the next joy ride :driving: Just have to pass emissions to renew my registration and I'll be able to drive it anywhere. :)

Dibs on the first burnout!!!

Congrats! :cheers2:

Did you find this with the O-scope, and was the trigger sensor wiring leads just reversed (+/-)?

Thanks!

No, I couldn't find a grandpa local that had one of these prehistoric machines LOL Yeah, the wires were reversed.

Also, I didn't find this. . . I had no idea what else to inspect and I would have never suspected anything like this to be incorrect so I sent it back to be looked over/repaired.

I want to celebrate like I did in the parking lot years ago when you lived by the school! That's the kind of celebration I deserve!!!

Awesome to read you got everything sorted out. Little stuff like that is always the last thing checked...

Yeah, it's unfortunate but I'm just happy it's over with! :auto:

Zach took the time to pull the harness I had built for him out of the car and ship it back. The root issue was my bad ASSumption that connectors from two different manufacturers would be labeled the same. They weren't. So the two trigger wires on the VR sensor were revered. So after all of the hair pulling the screw up caused Zach, it was a 15 second fix. Lesson learned and hopefully a mistake I won't repeat.

:):icon_tup: Glad its worked out now. Thanks for the clarification and honesty. Things happen!

glad you got it worked out, we need to go on a cruise now

Yes sir, that would be nice. Ideally I would like to have more tuning done before driving outside of town. That, and most importantly my tags are expired so I'd like to have a fighting chance at emissions testing before I waste the time and money. I'll get with Jacob sometime.

Chris helped me out tremendously with making my two gauges (pressure & temp) perform two different functions a piece by drawing up a color-coded wiring diagram as well as suggesting which switches to use. I had been putting this off because I was afraid to cut up the gauge harnesses without being completely sure where each wire goes.

Thursday I started trimming the gauge harnesses and adding connectors and switches to both. I got it completed yesterday, everything worked perfectly. I added small labels to the mount to use as a cheat-sheet till it's commited to memory.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...5&d=1434086204

I'm using the temp gauge for oil and water. Problem with using it to monitor coolant temps was that the ECU had its own dedicated sensor for coolant temp so an additional hole needed to be added for the gauge. . . I used one of the coolant bypass ports for the extra sensor by drilling and tapping NPT threads. I've heard plugging the bypass ports is a no no but these ports have been inactive forever without any problems (that i'm aware of. .)
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...6&d=1434088284

The pressure gauge I'm using for both oil and fuel. No issue here other than the need for a pedestal to mount the two extra sensors for monitoring the oil. I decided to use the FFE 13B REW pedestal that will work on a 13B when the REW's oil cooler hole is plugged, I found the plug on eBay for ~$5 (not pictured).
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...7&d=1434088303

Neat idea with the gauges. I wish I thought of something like that when I was still trying to figure everything out. I went with the "expensive" option of upgrading the ECU to a PS1000 and using a RacePak display.

I don't see the issue with "plugging the bypass port." Doesn't it go to the intake manifold or something? I got rid of mine because there was no place for coolant to go with everything else I'd removed.

No issue with plugging that port. The lines runs from the rear iron, through the intake for the thermowax cold idle function, and then to the water pump. Plug the pump and the rear iron and you're done.

Yeah mine has been plugged for some time now, I just remember talking with a reputable rotary guy in the local community where he went on about the importance of having the two ports tied together. . something about air pockets that "could" be trapped in the rear iron. .

The theory made sense by the way he explained it but it never worried me much. I was more so stating it as a disclaimer to avoid any shaming :suspect:

So I got an emissions test done on the Mazda today. Although I didn't expect it to pass I definitely didn't see it doing worse than when it was carbed. . . The car hasn't been tuned much so more will be needed (which is why I didn't expect much), I was just hoping it was running a little lean but that is definitely not the case. A separate tune for emissions will be needed.

Here's the EFI results:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...3&d=1434485206

And carbed results from many years ago:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...4&d=1434485225

Rotaries run rich at idle (to idle well), especially ported ones. and my RX8 with no cat still smelled like my FC.

You need a cat or an extremely lean tune with barely running bc of retarded timing to pass emissions... (and know a guy who is gonna say "yep, looks like a cat under there").

EFI will get you precision and repeatability/consistency, but it'll still smell and kill the environment ;)

What I really enjoy is that neither of my cars have cats and they've never questioned me. Hell, the celica shits daisies with absolutely no emissions (JDM engine).

Originally I had planned to make some type of intake but with OEM parts laying around I figured I'd try them first. I am really liking the OE look. One day I'll try a custom intake to see what power differences are made when I get to a dyno.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...5&d=1436554000

Couple things here....

1) Kudo's for Chris for being man enough and responsible enough to admit when he made a mistake. So many people here wouldn't fess up to it and I feel like that goes a LONG way to describe his character, ethics, morals and business practices :icon_tup:

2) That is actually pretty genius with the gauges.... damn... I'm going to have to remember that!

3) It's not impossible or nearly as hard as people think to get a rotary to pass emmissions. I went through that horseshit a few years ago and even made a thread about it somewhere with the results of my sniffer test. I WAS running a cat through, and I didn't alter the tuning that much either. I pulled a little fuel out at cruising because I generally run my cruising a little richer than most anyway, usually ~.87L as opposed to the .92-.95L that most people run at. So I leaned it out to I think .92ish before going for the sniffer test and that was that... done... hopefully never have to go through it again because I would need to build more exhaust bullshit and blah blah blah because now 4" exhuast... does anyone even make a 4" cat?

So Zac... are you running a cat or trying squeak through without one? Maybe try adding an RX8 airpump right into the exhaust? :rofl:

Yes, you are 100% correct! I've heard horror stories dealing with other harness "builders" from different car friends. Chris was determined to resolve the issue/s and has been a big help along the way.

I thought it was a great idea as well, it was something I wanted to eliminate having too many gauges yet still be able to monitor different areas. For something that makes so much sense, I couldn't find any diagrams/how-to for doing this. Chris was a big help with this! He made a diagram (color coded and easy to read for me) for the different gauges, showing connections to either a DPDT or SPST switch.

It is definitely doable, no doubt! The problem I have is that I am not confident (AT ALL) with making any changes to the Haltech program especially without guidance. It's a slow progress but it'll get done and like you say "and that was that... done... hopefully never have to go through it again" that's my thoughts on the tuning. . Once it's done I should never have to adjust it again (except for season changes I have been told and of course modifications). Once it's tuned I'd like to make a separate file just for emissions testing where I'll upload while sitting in line at the facility

No cat, just presilencer (I passed visual inspection like this). I planned to have it tuned till barely running, maybe adding some alcohol as well but worse case I haven't ruled out the idea of running a pump, I just want to see if I can do without one first so I don't have to install/remove a kit yearly.

On my '87 Sport, i passed TN emissions on stock ecu with no cat by turning the CAS as far as i could retarded and putting in a bunch of ISO heet (think 8ish bottles) into the gas tank. That idea has been around for a while, and honestly i'm surprised it worked. The car came into the bay doing the TPS idle bounce (prob bc ecu was freaking out)... honestly i think i got lucky, guy may have even pulled one of the probes (dual exh) out early to help.

On my vert, I had a stock air pump running with the outlet hose going to a o2 sensor location directly in front of a working aftermarket cat.

If I had to do it all over again, i'd spend the extra money putting a real cat on there temporarily as its almost a "sure thing". You seem to be ok with multiple attempts so you can mess with tuning and such, but it will be a long road IMO. Especially with being ported. My guess is you will need some sort of air injection, and hopefully can still bolt up a NA air pump easily if you still have one.

I've never had one on the car. Most definitely the first thing I threw away ten years ago. Not that it would be a difficult part to get my hands on. . I just want simplicity and to me a separate tune (if possible) is much easier than installing and removing parts yearly IMO. Also, I'm not opposed to using a cat either but this is another part that I will be removing yearly as I don't want that staying on the car.

If it's going to be a difficult "long road", it may be in my best interest to get an antique auto tag (temporarily, however long that may be) so I can drive legally while this tuning work progresses.

Race car has antique tags....... I drive it all the time I just keep a repair work order in it if I get pulled over.

Jeff and I were talking about that earlier, I may do this. . That and if the daily is "down" I guess I could technically drive it legally too.

Yea that would be the cheapest route.

Great news, car is tuned and running very well. Installed my new plugs I've been sitting on, waiting on this day to come to install them. And the best news, I got the car registered (legally! !) but with an antique auto tag. I'm ready for DGRR 2016!

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...8&d=1442270295

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...9&d=1442270348

too soon. Take it back apart. ;)

Lol, noo! I'm gonna be the odd ball that only has fill up and go :)

Lol... Me too! :smilielol5:

I wanted to say something else about the rear coolant nipple... I run that to my AST's along with the the highest port from the WP housing and the rad

:nopity: Well there's more work for me to do now, found this today as I was about to put groceries in the car. People suck!! !
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1442808482

See, that shit right there makes me furious! Probably too chicken shit to leave a note too huh?