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Damage Assessment
Problem #1 I couldn't raise or lower my headlights since the fender had been smashed into the area where the light sits when closed so...
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3...7/IMG00391.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...7/IMG00387.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5...7/IMG00389.jpg |
Little hammer here, little hammer there.....
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...7/IMG00396.jpg ...A little touch up pain; It ain't pretty, but at least I can use my headlights https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C...7/IMG00395.jpg The question then became how to finance the Rotary Resurrection... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a...7/IMG00018.jpg |
Preliminary Damage Report
It quickly became apparent that somethings needed to be fixed sooner rather than later:
- Power steering was leaking and cutting in and out at inopportune times. - Steering wheel was about 90-100 degrees off. ^^^pretty sure this was the result of being pulled out of the ditch with the steering wheel at full lock (as instructed by the jackass tow truck driver) - According to my roomate the car was "crabbing" down the road. ^^^upon further inspection the driver side rear tension rod was bent into a shallow "U" - Slight howling that increases with speed ^^^Leaking pinion seal on the diff, leaking axle flange, - Handling VERY twitchy w/ even slight steering input. - 65% of driver side mirror M.I.A. - Door "decorated nascar style" - Front fender = fubar - Crushed rocker panel - Melted rear bumper ^^^bent up exhaust - Flat spotted tires |
Got her up in the air for a better look at the damage...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r...7/IMG00060.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-n...7/IMG00066.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4...7/IMG00068.jpg |
Power Steering Overhaul
Decided the power steering needed a complete overhall, and was in the running for the most dangerous non-operational system on the car...
A/C compressor getting raped by the busted power steering pump... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H...7/IMG00075.jpg The further you go the uglier it gets https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t...7/IMG00077.jpg But there is hope.... New Rack https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B...7/IMG00081.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-r...7/IMG00100.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q...7/IMG00102.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x...7/IMG00104.jpg This stupid O-ring isn't stocked anywhere.... RTV and hope for the best... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1...7/IMG00105.jpg New Lines https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...7/IMG00084.jpg And done...almost https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...7/IMG00086.jpg |
Toe Plates
Typically your first trip after replacing all your steering components would be to the alignment shop. Being that I had already spent my ramen budget on car parts, I wan't to keen on that idea. Since toe settings are responsible for most accelerated tire wire I found a solution to keep that in check.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b...0/IMG00108.jpg Toe Plates. I got the idea from my roomate who was an engineering student and intern for a race team. They use them all the time (a much nice version than what I created for $8 at harbor freight) to set toe during qualifying and such. The concept is simple, line the plates up parallel to the face of the wheel (I used the bungie cord to keep it snug) https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-G...d/IMG00116.jpg Then measure the distance between the front edges of the plates and the back edges. If the distance between the front edge(s) is greater than distance between the rears then you have toe out. If the opposite is true you have toe in. |
10AE lend me your parts!
In the search for replacement parts I hit up a junk yard in Tallahassee, and made a bittersweet discovery...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...tin+10AE+1.jpg Its a 10th Anniversary Edition. I later found out I knew the guy who owned it and he had gotten into some legal trouble so it sat in impound for weeks before being towed to the yard :sad: http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...0ad320full.jpg http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...rsary20ad1.jpg Ok, enough nostalgia....Determined not to let such rare pieces go to waste I pretty much stripped it bare. Windows, hatch, dash, interior, LSD, axles, sub-frame etc. Unfortunately the engine and emblems were already gone...oh well Bringing home the goods https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P...1218091655.jpg Little elbow grease and a lot of wire wheel action... https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-A...k/PC160437.JPG MUCH better https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...7/PC160440.JPG Stored away waiting for a couple goodies https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-u...5/PC160467.JPG |
Now is where the real work begins...
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-y...7/PC160446.JPG Step one: remove my once beautiful Greddy exhaust :sad: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a...5/PC160450.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-n...7/PC160451.JPG Step two: attempt to loosen a ton of greasy stubborn botls https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...7/PC160454.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...7/PC160460.JPG Notice the nice line of axle grease that my busted half shaft saw fit to decorate my undercariage with. Notice that although old the boot is not actually leaking. the grease is coming from the flange where the half shaft bolts to the output shaft on the diff... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R...7/PC160459.JPG Time to let the PB Blaster put in some work... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q...7/IMG00268.jpg |
Back to work.
For the record, rear tension rods are NOT strong enough to use as a brace while you break loose the nuts on your axle nuts. But it had already been bent and re-straightened once so it was on the "replace" list regardless. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o...7/PC180471.JPG Marking the drive shaft flange orientation https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R...7/PC180477.JPG Free at last! https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...7/PC180482.JPG Oh, what a surprise....Broken front diff mounts are a VERY common problem due largely to the ingenious design which includes relies on the shear strength of a rubber block to combat the pitch and dive of the drive shaft and nose of the diff wanting to go in opposite directions under acceleration /deceleration. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U...7/PC180484.JPG Diff was yanked and sent off to be freshened up with new seals and have the wear on the clutch plates inspected. See that cap next to the driver side axle? apparently when I was run off the road it put enough force on the axle to drive it into the cup, displacing enough grease/air to force the cap out of the backside. Since the axle was bolted to the flange it couldn't fall out so it simply allowed axle grease to be flung all over the place.....good to know. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d...7/IMG00306.jpg |
And this is why its great to have friend's w/ awesome gf's who are willing to use oven cleaner for something other than its intedned purpose...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-M...219091340a.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-w...7/IMG00285.jpg |
While they were cleaning up I took the time to clean up and wrap the Racing Beat downpipe I picked up for the low, couldn't wait to get rid of this stock POS.
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4357110_n.jpg RB DP as delivered https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...7/IMG00286.jpg Sanded, ceramic painted, wrapped https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-H...7/IMG00304.jpg A little silicon spray for good measure https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0...7/IMG00305.jpg |
While I had half the car apart already I decided to remedy the oh so annoying coolant passage o-rings that I'd put off for months:
Turbo off https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B...7/IMG00289.jpg LIM off, lets see what we're workin with.... https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-r...7/IMG00291.jpg And here is the cause of all this strife.....Classy https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j...7/IMG00292.jpg Better https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--...7/IMG00297.jpg More awfulness https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Y...7/IMG00294.jpg Better, not show quality, but no one well ever see this once its together https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V...7/IMG00296.jpg New gasket, new o-rings and enough RTV to ensure I won't be doing this again https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m...7/IMG00303.jpg What I DID have to do though was find some oil meter pump lines, since the ones going to the LIM were broken off during the course of this repair....one more thing on the list. |
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http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...4/IMG_0398.jpg |
Makes me sick to see a 10AE in the junkyard, especially for that reason. Well I hate to see ANY rotary in the junkyard, but one so rare makes it even worse.
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Since I had to order the OMP lines from somewhere I returned focus to the original problem(s) suspension. Some goodies arrived from MMR:
Camber adjustment links for the rear. Since I'm using these I had to retain the stock rear control arm bushings...one less thing to buy. Next to the stock link https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v...7/IMG00310.jpg Delrin rear diff mounts https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C...7/IMG00314.jpg Diff back from the shop, new output shaft seals, new pinion seal, new mazdazpeed front diff mount https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n...7/P1060806.JPG Everything mocked up getting ready for install https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W...7/IMG00346.jpg Hoisted into its new home https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--...106002310a.jpg |
It was then time to address the half shafts.
this was the driver side shaft where the end cap was forced out...who ordered the pudding? https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X...7/P1080809.JPG Step One: dissasembly There is a circular retaining clip just under the inside lip of the cup. Simply pry that out with a pick or screwdriver... https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b...5/P1080808.JPG and the shaft should slide right out , and drop nasty greasy balls in your lap....or onto your prepared work surface. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6...7/P1080812.JPG Step Two: Cleaning I don't know the best substance to clean off old axle grease in 20 degree weather, but I know what it ISN'T....Acetone. That's all my buddy had, but I ended up resorting to dish soap and a pile of paper towels. Step Three: Reassembly Now that everything is clean, time to dirty up again with fresh grease. I went with the heaviest synthetic import specific grease I could find at the parts store, I think it was made by valvoline. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_...7/P1080816.JPG Don't forget to re-install the retaining clip https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X...7/P1080820.JPG This was my "solution" for that end cap that was forced out (because i couldn't source another cup and couldn't afford a new axle). The mating surface was coated with RTV, in retrospect perhaps jb weld would have been a better option....time will tell. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--...7/IMG00361.jpg (Optional) Step Four: Prep/ProtectionA little paint never hurt anybody... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--...7/IMG00363.jpg |
Since once strut was already blown on the GC/tociko blue setup (and they don't go that low anyway) I was in the market for another suspension solution. I seriously considered keeping the GC's (especially since I got such a deal on them) but by the time I bought a full set of struts, and camber plates or RB lowering strut mounts I would have been way over budget.
Fortunately I found another great deal on a set of brand new coilovers. Apparently they were a gift from someone's GF who mistakenly got FC coils for an FD, but before they could be returned, the relationship went sour (perhaps because of...?). I sold the GC setup and was only out of pocket a a couple hundred bucks. K-Sport Control Pros 8kg/6kg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B...o/s1007/12+-+1 I know the Control Pro's are pretty basic, but they are better than stockish struts and they provide camber adjustment. When my driving ability and the rest of the car exceed their capability they will be replaced, but until then I couldn't be happier Front https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1...7/IMG00376.jpg Rear https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X...7/IMG00368.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I...7/IMG00377.jpg |
Now that she was no longer dangerous to drive, it was time to address the cosmetic aspects. First was the mirror, but as I went to install it I realized it didn't make sense to install a good mirror on a bad door, so of to the yard again...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r...7/IMG00351.jpg Found this little gem, 87 sport with complete aero package woot! But the reason I came... https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-x...7/IMG00353.jpg Probably one of the worst colors to sand to bare metal in direct sunlight, so hard to tell when you're finished, :lol: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0...7/IMG00387.jpg Wire wheel got old, and I got smart. Aircraft Stripper FTW! https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-q...7/IMG00389.jpg Silver insides would annoy me https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...7/IMG00391.jpg Since the new door was manual and mine are power I had to swap out all the guts....fun https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8...7/IMG00394.jpg Once the inside was dry, time to paint the outside. Note: the inside was sprayed with primer and then given a coat of rustoleum gloss black, the outside however is coated in chalk board paint. The workspace https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S...7/IMG00399.jpg And the finished product... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...7/DSC00023.JPG I decided not to put the molding on for a number of reasons. 1) My S4 molding was destroyed by the nascar antics of the ford explorer 2) I plan to convert to S5 exterior anyway so its hard to justify buying s4 molding 3) Not sure how well the paint would stick to plastic especially flexible plastic 4) My door is a dammit chalk board! I doubt a trim piece will keep me from winning the concours de elegance :rofl: |
Riding around like this (open downpipe) got load pretty quick.....and pretty annoying a little while after that.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N...5/DSC00025.JPG Enter another amazing deal, a buddy of mine sold his T2 but kept the RB exhaust because the buyer couldn't afford both. He packed it up and stored it but never actively tried to sell it. Fast forward a few years.....I happen to mention I'm in the market and he "thinks he may have a turbo-back FC exhaust he'll sell me for $250"....ok. Well turns out he lost the midpipe so I got it for $200....even better! https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c...5/DSC00032.JPG Of course not having a mid-pipe did present a small problem, but nothing that couldn't be solved with this. Borla XR-1 3in inlet 3in outlet . https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-u...7/DSC00027.JPG As I don't weld it was off to the local muffler shop to bring it all together https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2...7/DSC00047.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A...7/DSC00049.JPG Stock turbo outlet --> 3" downpipe --> 3" Borla XR-1 --> Ypipe --> Dual 2.5" Racing Beat cannisters https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-p...7/DSC00050.JPG Actually turned out to be a bit more quiet than I was expecting/hoping for...oh well stealth status. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-I...5/DSC00045.JPG |
Once the exhaust was squared away it was time to turn to the intake. The stock turbo inlet duct was full of cracks and beyond repair so I picked up the Corksport aluminum TID. Pretty well made piece. My only gripe was that they didn't have any black couplers at the time that I orded so i ended up with red...oh well.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Z...3/DSC00152.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Y...3/DSC00153.JPG |
Remember back when I broke that oil metering pump line removing the LIM? Well i eventually had to fix it and for cheap (as always). After searching for Turbo omp lines for a while and considering ordering the supplies to build my own I found a great deal (free since I was ordering something else) from a forum member for some n/a lines. Unlike ss line which can bend the stock lines are molded, especially used ones. Fortunately these had a little give in them and I was able to make them work.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b...3/SANY0091.JPG So, for the record N/A omp lines will work on a turbo block. The one caveat being that they don't go to the same injector location they would on the n/a block, but as long as injector has a line I'm happy. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r...3/SANY0092.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-q...3/SANY0096.JPG The lines were color coded (not sure if this is a factory application or something the PO did to assist with his installation :scratch:). https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...3/SANY0097.JPG |
So, after freeing up both the intake and exhaust I was greeted with the pleasant surprise of crisp throttle response, more power, better acceleration, and a wonderful sound. I was also greeted with the unpleasant surprise of the stock ecu's 8.5 psi fuel cut :mad:
It was fine while the weather was warm but when it started to cool down I would have to shift early to avoid hitting fuel cut, and when it actually got cold it was so bad that I couldn't even merge into traffic. So I babied her around for months saving for an ecu (I did not an still don't trust band aids like fuel cut defenders). well, apparently secondary injectors don't like going unused for long periods of time so when the weather warmed up and I tried to boost I was getting all kinds of bucking, studdering and hesitation. I changed the fuel pump...no help. So next on the lest was the in-tank fuel pump sock, I cracked it open and discovered a fair amount of rust , varnish and sediment. First step was to drain the gas. Make shift fuel can FTW! https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a.../s1223/049.JPG Then the insides: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-n.../s1223/050.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8.../s1223/052.JPG I wan't going to pay to have it cleaned, so I researched/tried various DIY methods: There were some guys (apparently malnurished contortionists children) who reached in an scrubed their tanks...no real man can do this. There was a redneck on youtube shaking his tank with small rocks and old gas inside....tried it, it does NOT work. There were some VW guys putting acid in their tanks...as a general rule nothing VW guys do is a good idea, lol Finally I ran across a product called evapo-rust that made some pretty bold claims and has been used by motorcycle guys with good success. All I can say is WOW! I picked up a gallon ( I would recommend 2) , poured it in and proceed to rotate the tank into a variety of positions over the next 3 days allow roughly 6-10 hours in each position. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v.../s1223/062.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K.../s1223/063.JPG |
In preparation from my future ecu upgrade I used this as an opportunity to revamp the entire fuel system:
Unfortunately during the process of removing the primary fuel rail one of the bolts snapped. I was in a rush so I tried to bolt down the other side tight enough to hold the rail.....DON'T do this. Fuel leaked like I had a bad PD. I then tried to use and easy out to remove the bolt....DON'T do this. It snapped and it took 3 rather expensive drill bits to eventually drill out the easy out and bolt . |
Also in preparation for my ecu (and eventually a turbo) upgrade, I decided to do something about that restrictive heatsoak-prone top mount. As with everything else, I set out to do this in a cost effective manner, so I gathered some supplies:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-u...3/DSC00159.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C...5+12.54.01.jpg The next thought was doing a middle mount setup, positioning the IC above the oil cooler but still in front of the rad. The piping would be shorter and thus easier to route and less laggy. However the core was too large for that and I would have no place for the a/c condenser. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5...5+13.07.56.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-s...5+13.47.17.jpg Finally I placed in in a VMIC configuration....like it was meant to be. Shortest possible piping, easiest routing, plenty of space for the condenser, and it looked like the pieces I had would be enough to get the job done. The problem with the v mount is that cutting and welding of the IC core became a requirement as well as fashioning mounts for the rad (at least) https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-J...5+13.26.42.jpg Decisions decisions.... |
Dood, you seriously got INTO this car.. damn. Sorry u had the accident. keep up the good work and good luck in the future.
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back...
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First of all, great project! You have good taste I like the look of this FC.
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www.fatcatmotorsports.com That'd be worth paying for. I talked to one of their tech's before at a meet who has an FC. After talking to him about the setup on his FC I know these guys know what they're doing. Fat Cat bumpstops for example are used by MAZDASPEED. Quote:
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The moment before she hit me, before I blacked out I remember the terrifying feeling of shock and bewilderment wondering why his person was seemingly trying to kill me?! She hit my FC so hard I was launched across 2 lanes into a pole. I regained consciousness a few minutes later as the paramedics were pulling me out of the passenger side because they couldn't get my drivers door open with the jaws of life. It was crushed inward to the point that it bruised my hip. My whole body felt like one big bruise. The aching and the pain were terrible. However I didn't think I had anything to worry about legally because she was so obviously at fault. However, just as in your case, the police failed to properly survey the accident scene and interview witnesses. The woman was scared and sobbing so they took pity on her and bought her story that the young guy in the red sports car must've been to blame. I went back and surveyed the scene myself taking pictures and measurements. Her skidmarks were over a hundred feet long and curved right at the end, out of her lane, into the center lane where she hit me. The police refused to reopen the case though so I got stuck with a totalled FC and no compensation because the cops put me half at fault even though I had uninsured motorist coverage. I'm glad your FC looks salvageable, mine wasn't... but I had four more afterwards so its all good :) |
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What are the dimensions of the core of that EVO IC? |
Wow, I have some heavy duty updating to do...
First of all , thanks for all the comments guys, its certainly a work in progress but slowly but surely its coming around. The next few updates will be pretty fast and furious, as they were completed a while back. Now, to bring this thread current... |
While trying to figure out The IC situation I decided to handle something a little more straight forward. As part of the "No 10ae left behind act" I vowed to use ever part that I could from the one I found in the yard, that included the interior.
Stripping out the old interior https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X...1+15.23.31.jpg The Red sun roof you see here is a replacement for the original which was rusted through near the drain. This water ran down the A-pillar and pooled in the floor...or more accurately absorbed into the spongy material under the carpet, which made removal a bit of a mess. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g...1+15.23.51.jpg Progress! I thought for a split second about grabbing some dry ice to tear out the sound deadening, but i was pressed for time and came to the conclusion that in a daily, the minor reduction in weight isn't worth the hassle. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4...1+15.37.02.jpg The old carpet next to the new one https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p...1+15.48.22.jpg Installed https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j...1+17.30.29.jpg As mentioned previously the 10ae (and Infini) had bronze tinted glass. One more item saved from an ignominious death at the junk yard https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_...7+18.04.19.jpg Installed with new door panels on the right, old ones on the left https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a...8+14.54.42.jpg |
So I made up my mind, V-mount for sure! In order to make more room for the necessary fabrication (and clean up the clutter in the engine bay....and improve weight balance) I decided to relocate the batter to the passenger storage bin. I also scooped up a pre-87 coolant reservoir which is located on the drive strut tower instead of right in front of the radiator.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e...6+14.35.48.jpg Leveling the mounding brackets for the battery box https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7...1+16.16.22.jpg 150amp breaker...check. 2 gauge welding cable...check https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C...2+12.09.10.jpg Platinum Power! https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1...2+13.43.16.jpg Since I had the interior largely disassembled and I was playing with electricity I figured I'd go ahead and replace the tired old and hot incandescent bulbs with LEDs Map lights are 30* cone single "amber" LED's from SuperbrightLEDs.com They aren't the brightest but them provide enough light to read....a map. If anyone these days is still competent enough to use one /rant. But they are dim enough to keep on without them being distracting kinda like an "attack mode" of sorts :lol: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...6+22.38.34.jpg Decided to touch up the sunroof switch since I had it removed. Not sure why mazda made these white in the first place? https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...7+20.56.14.jpg Dome light is a 4-LED wide cone unit that slips right into the factory fuse-style socket. Yes, its as bright as it looks :icon_tup: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B...6+22.39.26.jpg |
V-mount Fab Part 1
Finally got around to getting the V-mount fabbed up, no easy task as this is my daily, but when there's a will, there's a way. While I had the basic concept and most of the parts necessary, the devil is in the details and I did not possess the welding skill to make it happen. So I enlisted the help of a fellow forum member, and this was the mock up.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R...3+17.25.10.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-o...3+17.25.22.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v...3+17.25.39.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-P...3+17.26.07.jpg More details on the K-Tec V-mount setup can be found here: http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=933572 |
V-mount Fab Part 2
Once the mount locations were finalized and the pipe routing was worked out the project started really coming together. The fans were placed on top of the a/c condenser because it was believed there wasn't enough room to fit them between the cross bar and the top tank of the rad
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-K...3+14.58.39.jpg IC uses a 2" inlet because that is the outlet size of the stock (as well as hybrid) turbos. and the outlet is 2.5" https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...3+14.57.51.jpg Going to have to work on clearing out this area. Removing the stock coolant overflow was a big help, but there is still plenty of obstruction left. Testing would reveal how much a problem it really is https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7...4+15.53.38.jpg |
A seemingly minor, yet important change to the setup, I swapped the fans from pushers (inefficient) to pullers (more efficient) and moved them between the cross bar and top tank of the rad. They BARELY fit, but them fit.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-H...3+15.01.47.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Y...3+19.19.22.jpg In an effort to provide additional cooling I also made some bumper vents. These are the V1 prototypes and while not exactly stylish they do keep temps in check on the highway http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4777760_n.jpg |
A taste of things to come...
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Even the the Infini seats are "stock" they didn't just bolt to the stock rails completely without incident. 3 of the 4 mounting points were fine, but there was one that just refused to cooperate.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a...4+13.13.15.jpg Nothing a little ball bearing action can't fix..... https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k...4+13.13.51.jpg A little vacuum before final install https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R...9+21.05.43.jpg[/ |
A few weeks later I hit up a local car show (sibling rivalry). There are some advantages to having a chalk board door...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...7+11.43.21.jpg |
"J" Spec Gauge Cluster
Stock S4 Cluster
http://www.fototime.com/97E648B9912527C/orig.jpg Cool enough I suppose, I thought about converting to S5 for a little bit but I could never find one that wasn't pink, plus the gauges are LESS accurate than the S4 cluster, so no real point there. I bought a set of pro-sport premium amber gauges try to retro-fit them into the stock cluster, but 52mm gauges take up a decent amount of space. Once they came out with the 45mm series it was a different story however. Full J-spec gauge cluster thread: Writeup: JSpec Gauge Cluster - RX7Club.com Testing https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a...1+18.12.56.jpg Complete, with boost gague reinstalled https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...9+22.44.43.jpg[/QUOTE] |
nice!
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