Fact V's Fiction
 

10800 is NEVER USABLE in a street car.

Starting at 6000rpm to get your turbo and engine working simply makes it a DOG.

This car would be a TOTAL TURD to drive on the road :18:

4" exhaust, peripheral port and GT4202R with a 13B = nightmare

So to race someone on the street your would need to hold 5000rpm???? before you mash the gas????????????? LOL, Nice job on the syncro's changing from 10800rpm in 1st to 2nd gear LOL......... this just makes no sense and will NEVER EVER work in reality on the street.

That car would have RINGS RUN AROUND IT by a car fitted with a conventional engine and non horse cock inlet manifold and a much smaller turbo :boxing_smiley: The onus is on YOU! to back up the worthless dyno sheets with some real world acceleration figures PROVING how fast this car is................. for as it stands it is nothing more than a dyno queen as it is.

And based on your other customers car it would make for a pretty slow drag car since its only fitted with on OEM gearbox. So I for one just do NOT get the point of it AT ALL! But I am a reality person not a fictional person who shits on about torque under the curve, when it has no practical application and is NOT backed up by any factual results that set it heads and shoulders above what is a far more logical and simple proven set up. :ugh2:

If you want praise for building a dyno queen, congrats :suspect:

if you want respect for building a fast true street car show us all the power on 93 octane and show us the performance with a legitimate test.

Fact V's Fiction BS stops when the VBOX drops.
 

O.K. !

E-Mail from Steve Just now:
lol i read through all of that. is he willing to actually vbox the car? seems as though he doesnt want to and just wants to be stubborn with the dyno numbers. ill send it down for him to test. they are only $500 for them i dont understand why he wouldnt just buy one.

^ This is reply from Steve (user name smg944) on here, you can find his contact on the fast fd thread I started. You can PM him, he will talk to you and arrange shipment of his VBOX unit to you so you can test this car for all of us.

I've done my bit!
Its up to you PFS man to prove me wrong and to post up some real data on this car.
Since I have gone out of my way to entertain you and the crowd here, you can do a bit for us and also tell us what it makes on 93 octane, as this is a little side line interest for lots of us to have genuine street cars that can be driven anywhere anytime and filled up at normal gas stations :)

*So do one test (as a quasi drag car)* C16 Q16 Jizz in the tank if you need too!!!!

*Do another test running street fuel* 93 octane ONLY!!!

100kmh to 200kmh (start lower pick any gear that fits your power band!)
Send me the file
Measure the weight of your customers car (I assume you have your own corner scales????) SEND ME THE FILE!!!!

I'll post up the results in the fast FD Thread :fawk:

SIMPLE !

So I just found this thread, and all I can think of is "Whoa... simmer down Peter..." lol

All the personal attacks really don't make Ray look bad, and if anything his responses lend him more credibility (which I can only assume was not your end goal).

When it comes down to the truth of the matter PFS will build the car to the specs of what the customer asks for. If the customer wants something that is geared for street use than he'll build it with that as a focus, if the customer wants it to be used for drag purposes only (in the case of ET's car that you quoted earlier) than he'll build that. If the customer has a show car and wants impressive numbers with the option of ripping it up on a track, than PFS will build that too. At no point can Ray (or any builder/tuner for that matter) control how well the owner will drive a car once it's been paid for and taken home.

With regards to discrepancies in dyno figures, I know EXACTLY what you're talking about when it comes to the reputation of American dyno's. When I was living in England and first started making power oriented modifications to my FD I was continuously disappointed because the numbers I thought I should be making (based off what I read on the 7club) were consistently and significantly different from the numbers I was receiving from my UK shops DynoDynamics dyno. I did a little research and realized that MOST American dynos showed 15-20% higher numbers than their UK and Australian equivelents. Though I felt a bit cheated, that knowledge certainly made me feel better about the difference on paper.

When I came home from the UK I took my car to the very same dyno that PFS is still using today. I took it there for three reasons: 1) He was the closest reputable shop to me, 2) I wanted to actually compare numbers between what the UK dyno showed, and what the Yank dynos spit out, and 3) I needed a re-map for US gas (93 octane, verses the UK 98 RON equiv to 94 octane).

Ray humored me and did a baseline run for initial power before he began tuning. Ray's dyno showed almost the exact same HP as the DD dyno that my car had been mapped on in the UK, if anything it was 5whp off. When Ray re-mapped my car for a LOWER octane rating I picked up significantly more HP for the same PSI level.


Now, changing tacks and closing out my post (this was initially meant to be very short, oh well... lol) I'll say that you know of my experiences with PFS and other US tuners. My overall opinion is that Ray/PFS turns out an excellent product (when it's finally done, lol) and I have nothing to legitimately complain about with regards to his craftsmanship or tuning abilities. (The side seal issue was a fluke, and Ray has taken steps to correct/rectify that.) The engine that my car was running on when I bought it was a PFS engine, and I beat the LIVING PISS out of it damned near every day in England. Rays engine took all that abuse and constantly begged for more, hell... my FD was more reliable than my diesel DD in England!!! If that doesn't say something than I don't know what will :rofl:


I'm not trying to stir the pot or anything, I'm just suggesting that perhaps you approached the subject from the start with pre-conceived notions that may have been mis-directed. PFS isn't a one trick pony full of fuck-ups (like BDC/HC), but it seems like you approached him with that expectation in mind. Ya know what I mean?


Cheers man :biggthumpup:

Levi

I dont give a fuck who Ray thinks he is or what his pay to play customers think of him, period, he OBVIOUSLY has a pre conceived idea of me (obvious in his need to sign up here and talk shit) *I for one never herd of him, nor do I need to know anything about him*.

ALL that matters is that he can man up and test this car, end of story.

AND be FACTUAL about what engine this is, how reliable its been be it even from a previous customers car (as I easily found trolling the internet) AND what power it does on 93 octane, which HE NEVER EVER DECIDED TO POST BACK ABOUT.

Ball is in his court if he wants to be a man and join the fast FD club for real road cars, be my guest :icon_tup: if he wants to sign up here and cast an opinion about me then he can join the proven club of nobody cunts who do similar things.

Your English set up DD are massively exaggerated!!!!!!!!!!!!

See my build up thread where I do an analysis on a Euro Time Attack FD set up with E85 in a much lighter car that performed much worse than the dyno number would indicate.

I have been involved with many TA cars there where people have sent me rwhp figures from these things and they just did not make any sense to me as an engineer.

This is why I do NOT value any of these readings, most are run by cowboys, with dubious equipment, dodgy calibrations (or lack of) and @ the end of the day rubbish results that do not match reality.

It's just too easy to prove all of this to be crap, all it takes is an education and a $500 piece of scientific grade instrumentation and an honest operator. This is how we tell the difference between fact and fiction.

I do not care who you are or what you claim to be, just man up weigh the car, put in a proper piece of testing gear and provide me with the file, I'll do the hard work free of charge and verify it is what it is, then there is no doubt, no b.s., no excuses............. its all too simple :dunno:

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...t=10423&page=6
Taken from here for you mate ^ analysis of "dubious" Dyno Dynamics power claim, that really just does not add up to any kind of normal reality that I am aware of :dunno:

"Thanks very much.

On the power side its always an interesting debate/comparison. Mine is my own measure based on pure physics and engineering, I can't comment for others which vary depending on what dyno type people use. All I will say on the topic is my car accelerates faster and harder from 100kmh to 200kmh that some peoples RX7's that weight 120kg less and make (435rwhp as measured on a dyno dynamics machine!). **** Here is the link to an apparent 500+S-BHP (435rwhp Dyno Dynamics RX7 of 1180kg as run!) **** http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=631485&page=5 ........... you see why I value these toilet paper prints outs so highly :) 8.3++ seconds to my 7.53 seconds is an eternity.

(Below: stolen from gay shit hole club)
Just got back from Re-Worx !
Great job Geff and Max ! well done.

We mapped the car on E85
1600 and 850cc injectors are not enough with a base fuel pressure of 4.1BAR
We mapped at 0.9 Bar turbo pressure

all temps are just fine.. no knock no nothing
qoute from Geff: This engine likes running LEAN

432.2HP at the wheels at 0.9 BAR

flywheel
http://www.jeroentje.nl/media/foto/7011.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvcxX...layer_embedded 100kmh to 200kmh in 8.5 seconds!
*see what I mean* full throttle, full boost (actually higher than on dyno) 120kg less weight than me. And optimistic wheel speed sensors so in actual fact its probably slower than this indicated speed.

My long held experience after using almost every type of rolling road dyno over almost 2 decades is the vast majority of them are bullshit (over optimistic). This is why I bought my VBOX and developed my own power calculations as I know I can trust them and they do measure up to other cars in reality (production supercars).

There was a classic case of this on Motortrend a while back testing a R35GTR on a dynojet (using a guessing factor to estimate engine power @ 507bhp) then they took it to a real dyno that could calculate coast down power and actual wheel power (390awhp) and they worked out 485bhp V's factory spec of 480bhp. I have been lucky enough to work with both engine dyno and dynapack chassis dyno as a full time job at a University developing a FSAE power train, and I also got to exercise my development of my own power measure based on in vehicle tests so pretty much have seen it all and the variations you get between them.

My most important thing these days is spread of power (not just the peak), bit like your V8 conversion, its no point having a metric shit load :9898: of top end power and then never being able to translate that into any type of vehicle speed. The 100kmh to 200kmh test is graphic illustration of this, separates the dyno sheet racers from the people who can actually make a fast and reliable rotary :reddevil:

Over on the fag forum there was a bloke who listed up data logs of his ~1100kg RX7 that makes 435rwhp (dyno dynamics) on T04Z street port on E85 fuel (gutted open race exhaust) and on his video and data logging its doing 100kmh to 200kmh (off optimistic wheel speed sensors too!) in 8.3+ seconds.

I am very happy with my car and love the package :conehead: nice that people here appreciate it as well, happy to share the information with enthusiasts who can appreciate the level of work and dedication it takes to make and prove beyond any doubt how fast a true street rotary can be :reddevil:"

Has anyone tested or run this car yet in the real world?????

BUMP :biggthumpup:

Want to add it to the FAST FD thread :grouphug: