What he has is the same thing, just in a different molding. The one he has is actually a higher quality sensor than the one pictures above. We had a bunch of that style returned because they failed in a short time, while the one INFERNOSG has seems quite robust.

INFERNOSG, you have the clockwise rotation sensor (white center). There is a counter-clockwise sensor (black center) that you can use if you install it correctly. This sensor would allow you to orient the connector on top instead of the bottom. You would slide the sensor on the shaft, twist it 180* until the bolt holes line up, then torque it down. The output of the sensor is then reversed, but this is something the software will compensate for. Just calibrate it as you normally would. I can get you a sensor if you'd like to try it. If it doesn't work, send it back.

The best solution, IMO, would probably be to find a 90* boot for the connector and use the sensor you have. FWIW, the car in the pic below used a TWM throttle body on RB lower. The same sensor you used worked just fine. Obviously, the alignment could of been a little different with the different pieces.

As far as the filters, what I've done with the ITB setups is to build a plenum over the engine and run an intake tube to the front. Gives the benefits of the plenum and allows you to draw cooler air from the front of the car.

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/493/plenum3.jpg

I'll send you a PM in a minute, but I will try this if I can't find a 90 degree boot for the connect like you describe below.

(Also in PM). Do you know where I might be able to find a 90 degree connector/boot? I'm unfamilar with the type of connector the TPS uses.

Regarding the referenced photo I think the biggest difference is the use of an IDA-style TB versus a DCOE. It looks like the one you posted is a DCOE, which probably gives a little more clearance to the water pump housing.

I'd love to build a plenum at some point. Right now I really just want to get the car up and running again. I had a pipe dream of building an air box that would allow me to use a TII hood as a sort of "ram air" setup. Unfortunately, at the moment I don't have the material/resources to put together an airbox or plenum. I'm also worried about the clearance to the hood.

All the fuel lines are done and are capable of holding 120+ psi. I also finished the passenger's side of the engine harness. The TPS wiring isn't the prettiest but I don't think a little contact with the water temperature sensor is going to hurt it.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o...8-17-52_27.jpg

I've also removed all of the vacuum hardlines from the firewall. I figured I could probably run new vacuum lines a little cleaner with my custom setup and it fits in with my "remove everything" theme for the engine bay. The brass fittings are from Summit, the aluminum vacuum "manifold" is from McMaster, and all the silicone hose is sourced from SiliconeIntakes. I'm pretty sure the total cost for all that was less than one new vacuum block from Vibrant.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W...-23-20_548.jpg

I would have preferred the vacuum block be more toward the passenger side but this was the easiest mounting point with existing holes. Don't worry, I will be installed a one-way check valve between the vacuum block and the brake booster, not like it'll see positive pressure anyway.

I also put in my order for one of Defined Autoworks headers. They did my intake and my porting so why stop there?

I've been thinking about ducting lately. I had always planned on ducting from the front bumper to the radiator and oil cooler but I was only going to have an e-fan (shrouded) on the backside. Now I'm thinking I might try to do some kind of hood duct exit system since I have all this new found space in front of the engine. Would it be better the duct the entire radiator surface area out the hood and just strap the e-fan on the back or still shroud the e-fan and run the duct from that shroud? My thoughts are the former would be better while the car is in motion while the latter would make the fan more effective when the car is idling. This car will see next to no stop/go traffic once it's done.

man what a nice build keep up the good work!

Thanks for following!

I finished the vacuum block last night and spent most of the day today finishing up the fuel lines and working out the vacuum line routing. Here's the "current engine bay" shot:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...-02-53_273.jpg

I decided to make a new fuel feed line (the one on about a 45 degree angle) after I took that picture. It held pressure just fine but I didn't like how it looked in the engine bay; like that matters! The new line is more aligned with the fuel return line. Here's why the vacuum lines took so long:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-v...-03-05_609.jpg

Left-to-right the vacuum port destinations are for the FPR, the ECU MAP sensor, intake runner #2 (vacuum source), intake runner #1 (vacuum source), and the brake booster.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-x...-03-27_230.jpg

It's hard to see from the pictures but all the vacuum lines are neatly secured to the firewall. Everything is nice and straight, and there are no kinks anywhere. I guess I had some OCD today; there are a lot of zip ties holding everything together!

I also wrapped up the rest of the front wiring harness (headlights, horns, etc.) and attached it back to the stock mounting points. All that's left wiring-wise in the engine bay is the driver's side engine harness.

Engine shot with the revised fuel line:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5...-56-21_528.jpg

I'm now working on mounting the AEM/Mercury Marine/IGN-1A coils. I think I'm going to mount them in a 2x2 arrangement as shown below:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--...-20-30_172.jpg

I'' probably align the terminals versus staggering them as shown above as it makes accessing the connectors a little easier. They're got to go somewhere in this area:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...-20-02_114.jpg

My original plan was to mount them on the strut tower but with the alternator relocated that area's getting pretty crowded. I'm thinking about mounting them behind the headlight where the stock leading coils were mounted. This makes for longer spark plugs leads and I'd need to extend some wires but over all I think it's a cleaner location. I just need to make sure the leads stay away from the CAS wires!

Just about done mounting the IGN-1A coils in the car. Here's some in-process shots while the bracket is being painted. Test fitting the bracket in the car:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k...-14-24_123.jpg

A little closer:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-N...-14-06_673.jpg

It's pretty simple really; just two pieces of 1/8" flat stock formed to shaped and drilled a couple times. My welds still suck but it'll hold.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...-24-41_857.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k...-24-11_196.jpg

Pretty simple again. Six 1-1/2", four 1" spacers, and some 10-1/2" sections of all-thread and the coils are mounted. I plan to run the spark plug wires together up by the main fuse box and then down to the spark plugs. Once I have everything finished and mounted I'm going to take some measurements and give a call to Magnecor for some custom length 10.5 mm wire.

:lurk5: Looking good. That should keep the fires lit. :biggthumpup:

I am truly jealous, that engine bay is becoming a work of art! I wish I hadnt bought a car with all the factory nasty undercoating now... Oh well! Too late now!!

Thanks guys; it's coming along slowly but surely. It's not going to be the prettiest, most organized engine bay but I'd like to think I'm doing the best I can with what I've got.

I've finished the bracket and started wiring the coils (switched 12V and trigger done so far):

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q...-40-12_182.jpg

I've decided to arrange the coils as L2, T2, L1, T1 from left to right. This should result in the shortest possible leads. Ignore the wire tied to the T1 post; I was using it to determine the lengths needed for the leads. Once the coils are done the only wiring that remains is the IAT, starter and alternator, and then I can wrap everything up.

Two tasks I've yet to start that I'm not looking forward to are depowering the steering rack and ducting the radiator and fan.

The way you have the trigger wires routed right across the alternator and, presumably, right under or over where the ignition leads will lay is asking for noise issues. No reason not to run those right down the middle of the engine to avoid extra length and noise from the alternator and ignition.

This is definitely something that has been bugging me. I had that wire placement from before I relocated the alternator and I was going to mount the coils to the strut tower. The trigger wires enter the engine bay on the driver's side so I'm going to try to run them up over the engine from the oil filter side. I'm not sure if that'll be shorter or not but it'll keep the wires away from the alternator and spark plug leads. If I do need to extend the trigger wires is there a "best way" to do it? I've never dealt with shielded wire before.

Agreed with C. Ludwig here about the alternator...
The alternator actually runs AC - alternating current - internally and then runs through a rectifier to produce the DC that the vehicle can use.
It's the AC that causes all the headaches in terms of RFI.

In terms of dealing with the shielded wiring...
Cheap way is to use aluminum foil (on the junctions).
You can then tape over it with electrical tape so it doesn't look as bad.
They do make metallized (shielding) tape for a step up from aluminum foil.


-Ted

I moved the trigger wires last night. Fortunately there was no wire extending required and it looks like I'll be able to take some length out. Thanks for the tip!

Still working on the coils. Just trying to figure out how to run the grounds. C. Ludwig, is the preferred grounding method of the AEM coils still to gang them all together and ground them to the block versus what the wiring guide says? I seem to recall having this conversation with you but I can't find the correspondance.

I always send them all to the rotor housing or head. It's convenient and works. Basically, two of the grounds are kind of along for the ride and won't influence performance. The high current (Pin D) is the one you need to have well sorted. If the block ground is marginal, (which it should not be!) then go to the battery. Better yet, ensure you have good grounding of the block to the battery negative post and then ground all 3 pins of the coil to the block.

Grounding the block to the battery would be difficult (but not impossible) considering the battery is inside the car in the passenger's bin (grounded to the body). I have one engine ground on the rear iron that goes to the firewall that I was planning on using for the coils. Both ground points have the paint stripped and covered in dielectric grease. The battery ground is 2 AWG cable and the engine ground is 4 AWG. Would this be considered a "marginal" ground system? I could run the battery ground into the engine bay but I thought those were supposed to be kept <18", but I guess I could piggyback onto the body ground point. In the stock configuration the battery is grounded to the engine via the starter body, right?

IMO you need a minimum of 4 ga running from the battery negative post directly to the engine. This is the way I setup all relocated batteries.

Could not agree more. I can't tell you how many electrical headaches are caused by poor grounds.

I've got it all worked out now. I had a good ~15 minute call with Chris yesterday and got everything straigtened out. I redid my engine ground and now I have a 2 AWG cable running from the battery negative terminal to the top of the rear rotor housing. The same point serves as the grounding location for the coils and a 4 AWG wire connects it to the firewall for the chassis ground. With this better engine ground hopefully I can avoid having to run dedicated ground wires to the alternator and starter bodies. I'm still debating if I should add an additional 4 AWG ground from the battery negative terminal straight to the chassis.

I could never hurt, and will take only 5 minutes to do.

Yeah, making the wire isn't difficult I just need to find a convenient way to connect it to the battery.

Despite heat indices over 110 degrees I've made some small progress. The loom for the coils is done. I just need to connect all the wires to the main engine harness.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-e...-19-44_968.jpg

My custom K&N filters also came in so I tapped one for the IAT sensor and mocked them up.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-q...-20-12_398.jpg

I put the IAT sensor in the rear filter because I figure that'll have hotter intake temperatures and therefore be the limiting factor. I really need to find a way to get cooler air to the filters. A TII hood should put air in the general area...

How about something like this?
Yes, it's a 20B in an RX-8 but you can see the general idea. Build a plenum and a big duct.
http://cdn.speedhunters.com/wp-conte.../Revo8-118.jpg

PS
check out speedhunters, should have some good rotary stuff coming up seeing as tomorrow is 7/7

A small update after a Summer of getting nothing done.

Except for the alternator and starter power wires everything is connected in the engine bay. I have about another 12" of wire remaining that needs to be covered on the main branch but I ran out of electrical tape. I also need to shorten wires that run to the transmission about 6" but I think I'll do that with the engine out.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I...909_192743.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I...909_192902.jpg

Yeah I know the loom is ugly and kind of sucks. As long as it keeps the wires from getting wet/toasted though. It doesn't have to be pretty; it just has to work!

I've also gone ahead and purchased just about all the parts I need to rebuild the engine. What $2000+ in parts looks like:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M...909_193821.jpg

Picture includes but isn't limited to: RX-8 stat gears, NRS ceramic apex seals, Mazda OEM seals (except apex seals and with FD corner seal springs), gaskets, etc. RX-8 e-shaft will also be used but it, along with all my other rotating parts are at Mazdatrix being balanced.

A T2 hood would make a great cold ram air intake to those filters. Looks like they are about the same size and similar placement as the stock T2 intercooler. Just fabricate up a box to enclose the filters that is open on the top side, with your choice of sheet metal or fiberglass, and stick a mating flange surface along the open top side that matches up to the rubber seal under the scoop area of the T2 hood. Tip - borrow a T2 IC to use as a template. To locate the box and keep it in the right placement with the hood closed, you can fabricate AL bracket(s) to rigidly mount the box to one or more of the unused threaded holes on the keg that were once used for the vacuum plumbing.

I really wish I had a TII hood to mess with. Otherwise, what you laid out is what I was thinking. I'd have to pass the throttle cable through the airbox though. I also want to make a cut out in the hood and add some ducting to vent the radiator but I'm not sure how that would work with the TII hood scoop (i.e. would I just suck the hot air back into the intake)? Once I get the car running it's definitely something I'm looking into.

The main harness is completed. It still looks pretty ugly but as long as it keeps the wires dry/cool it'll do for now. All that's left are alternator power wires, the starter power cable, the spark plug wires, and trimming the transmission harness once the dummy engine's out.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-V...910_203143.jpg

This area was a PITA:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-L...910_203229.jpg

I put the alternator and spark plugs in to get an idea of how to route the spark plug wires:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_...910_203434.jpg

I'm thinking 90 degree boots at the coils then the wires run next to the fuse box, over the alternator, and down to the plugs with straight boots. This should keep them from the main harness and any wires it comes near will be crossed at 90 degree angles.

Hey where did you get your din and radio display and how much was it?

I picked it up used from another member here. IIRC, they were a limited run part by someone over on 7Club. Unfortunately not something available "off the shelf." It probably wouldn't be all that hard to make if you have some 20 ga steel and the proper tools.

It's starting to looks like a proper engine bay again:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X...912_201802.jpg

I finished the alternator power wires. They sit higher than I'd like, which means the plug wires are going to be close. Hopefully this won't cause an issue. Starter power, plug wires, and shorten the transmission harness and the wiring is complete.

Took measurements for plug wires and got the starter cable completed. Here's the end result:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q...913_201909.jpg


The starter wire snakes along the frame rail next to the main harness and passes under the steering column to the starter:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-P...913_201954.jpg

I'm going to go back and redo the wiring a little. I've determined I don't need the second breaker in the engine bay. There is already one breaker <12" from the battery and the alternator power passes through a 100A fuse in the main fuse box. I'm going to replace it with a bus bar or single post terminal to eliminate the loop in the starter cable and just in general clean things up.

I checked out the whole system again. Fortunately everything still powers up and the starter spins. I hadn't gone back and verified the system worked since taking C. Ludwig's advice about the primary ground.

Ordered custom length plug wires from Magnecor and some electrical stuff to clean up the main power cables on Friday. Should be here today or tomorrow. Ovder the weekend I rigged up the throttle cable. Made a bracket out of 1/8" flat stock and reused the stock throttle cable:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-M...916_194545.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W...916_194616.jpg

I had to tweak the cable mount on the TB a little and increase the width of the "channel" in the cable guide to get everything to work with the stock cable. I still need to rework the bracket a little to allow me to remove the throttle cable without pulling everything apart and position the cable a little lower to be properly aligned with the guide. The biggest PITA was getting the range of motion of the pedal to match that of the TB, which involved me having to modify the pedal assembly a little. Works pretty well now but the pedal is softer than I'd prefer. I need to find a way to increase the spring tension at the pedal or TB or both somehow, so if anyone has any ideas I'm all ears. Also, does anyone know how to remove anodized coating without a ton of sanding (i.e. chemically) or if you can anodize over an existing coating? Trying to ditch the blue and would prefer black.

How the engine bay currently sits:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-q...916_194735.jpg

Another day, some more (slow) progress.

My custom Magnecor plug wires arrived yesterday. 30" length, 90 degree HEI "top post" style boots for the coils and straight boots for the spark plugs. I also got two sets of their wire separators. Considering the decent wires and terminals and the proper crimping tool/dies $110 really isn't too bad of a price.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R...919_165237.jpg

These are their 8.5 mm "KV85 Race Wires."

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X...919_165156.jpg

Magnecor makes a lot of claims about their wires and EMI/RFI interferrence but I don't know about all that. Either way I've had good experience in the past and their super easy to work with.

THe 30" length was somewhere between a measurement and a guess. I used some old vacuum line to approximate the route of the wires. Fortunately my guesstimate was spot on this time.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-H...919_190223.jpg

Another angle:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6...919_190253.jpg

The wires are held in place at the fuse box with a little bracket I made out of 16 ga steel (is in the process of being painted):

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-n...919_190334.jpg

Overall I'm pretty happy. The wires just barely contact the brake line for the driver's front caliper but other than that there is ample clearance to the alternator and steering column. I tried to route them so they cross everything else at 90 degrees and I pretty much accomplished that.

Found a solution for the soft throttle:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p...920_220028.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V...920_220208.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u...920_220243.jpg

Went to Autozone and picked up a pack of generic throttle return springs and a cheap APC throttle return spring bracket. I bent the bracket flat in a vice and it works quite well. There was an unused threaded M4 hole in the cable pulley that I used for the other anchor of the spring. The pedal could still be a little stiffer but it's a lot better than before. Of all the springs this was the stiffest one that could fit between the pulley and the cable guide arm. I'll probably make a little extension piece to add to the APC bracket or make a new bracket altogether so I can run another spring on the other side of the pulley for some more tension.

It's been a while. Time for an update.

The pedal was still too soft for my liking so I wanted to add another spring. The APC bracket was too short so I made another using it as a template. It's still a little rough but the pedal is nice and firm now.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-G...921_220733.jpg

I realized I didn't need the second circuit breaker in the engine bay so I replaced it with a single post terminal. This got rid of the weird loop in the starter cable and made it shorter. More clearance between the main harness and the alternator now too. I also found a neat cover-thing to prevent any shorts.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c...923_140041.jpg

While I'm waiting for my exhaust manifold to be completed I started cleaning and painting various engine pieces. Nothing crazy. Aluminum pieces painted "aluminum" and iron pieces will be painted "iron."

Alternator and new dual sheave pulley:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p...927_200417.jpg

Water pump housing:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p...922_183736.jpg

Masking/painted rotor housing:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...922_182459.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c...925_184850.jpg

Alternator relocation bracket (still need to paint the slide):

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R...923_140009.jpg

Blocked off oil metering pump on front cover and painted it and the CAS:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s...927_200449.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6...930_195639.jpg

Ordered oil pan brace and painted it black:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7...930_195836.jpg

I also convinced myself to replace the bulk of the 23 year-old fasteners.

Bolts for water pump and front cover and washers for exhaust manifold and engine mounts:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q...930_200132.jpg

Additional bolts for the front cover, nuts for the water pump housing, exhaust manifold, and engine mounts, and washers for the water pump housing are still on their way.

McMaster for just about everything else (all are Class 10.9 and black-coated):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L...002_213923.jpg

Cleaned the oil pan:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...930_200350.jpg

Still need to remove some residual silicone/gasket material and paint.

Balanced rotating assembly came back. New main pulley and e-shaft thermal bypass delete:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j...002_211117.jpg

F/R rotors (within 3g):

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-q...002_211129.jpg

Other rotating bits (new rear counterweight on the right):

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-N...002_211152.jpg

New e-shaft (RX-8) versus old:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2...002_213433.jpg

More painting/cleaning to come. Dummy engine will come out once the exhaust manifold is test fit.

To do:
-Paint intermediate housings, intake manifold and misc brackets
-Clean engine bay
-De-power steering rack
-Duct forward side of radiator
-Make FG fan shroud
-Make extension harness for O2 sensors
-Permanently install seat/harness
-Rebuild/install engine
-Make some kind of exhaust
-Start???

You do nice work, sir!

Not much going on. Waiting for the exhaust manifold to be finished so I can wrap up the engine mock up and wire the O2 sensors. I decided I didn't like the blue so I soaked the anodized TB parts in drain cleaner:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X...012_230022.jpg

After a little bit of polishing I cleaned and assembled the TB for the last time. It not gets wrapped up and stored away until it's time for final assembly.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C...014_150204.jpg

After several hours of masking I get the intermediate housings all painted. No flashy colors here. Color is "cast iron." Fitting.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N...013_193312.jpg

I've also painted all the misc. engine brackets and stuff black. The oil pan was stripped and repainted as well.

I decided to make my own fiberglass fan shroud so I bought all the materiel for that. I now just need to find the time to get that made.

Where I'm stuck and what has been a perpetual thorn in my side is ducting the inlet side of the oil cooler and radiator. Stock oil cooler and Koyo N-Flo radiator in the stock locations. No matter how I look at it I can't seem to visualize a good way to make the ducts and/or how to attach them to the car. The popular trend seems to be to make a new undertray and duct the oil cooler and radiator separately with the oil cooling vented underneath the car. Thoughts, pictures, examples?

So I realize it's been over a month since I've updated. More on that later.

I've purchased just about everything else I need for this build except for a harness:

I decided to stud the engine, rather than re-use the stock tension bolts.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-H...101_171159.jpg

This is the kit from Turblown. I also sourced two new OEM tension bolts for the "legs" of the keg.

Also purchased:

- New clutch slave cylinder and SS clutch line
- RB primary injector plugs
- RB oil pan baffle
- RB "street" oil pressure regulator
- RB aluminum flywheel, street/strip pressure plate, street/strip HD disk
- Mazdatrix oil cooler lines
- New OEM oil cooler brackets

I probably won't use the little support plate RB supplies with the injector plugs as this is a N/A engine so the plugs will never see positive gage pressure and it's downright ugly. I'm going to have to tweak to th injector plugs a little as well because for some reason they extend into the flowpath of the intake ports. Nothing a little grinding won't fix.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-g...101_172852.jpg

That's all the parts that have been sitting in my garage for going on 3 weeks now. I said I haven't been able to get much done and this is primarily for two reasons:

1. Still can't figure out a design for the radiator/undertray I like.
2. Our first child was born 10/26:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...2695130004.jpg

Hopefully as things calm down I'll be able to get back out to the garage. Goal is still to fire up in the Spring.

Congrats on the little one!

Mine is about to turn 3, and I can't believe my DNA spawned so much awesome.

Love how u wired everything great job

Ours is just over a month now so all he pretty much does is make noise, eat, sleep, and leak from just about every orifice. I'm still waiting for said "awesome" to come :rofl:

Thanks! I know it's not the cleanest or the prettiest but hopefully it'll get the job done.



So quick question on PCV systems. I no longer have a purge control valve or the port on the center iron. Right now I have the vent on the oil filler neck connected back to the charcoal cannister, using it like a vented catch can. Will this cause problems? Should I add a dedicated oil catch can and leave it vented or would it be better to plumb it back into the intake?

i love what you've done so far. you and i seem to have some common tastes and goals.

anyway, i just have a question about you IAT. is it an open element or closed element sensor? i'm trying to decide which to get and i'm not sure what the pros and cons of each are.

thanks.

The IAT is open-element. I'm using the "Haltech" IAT sensor, which I'm pretty sure is a rebadged GM sensor of some description. I'll admit I'm not familiar with the advantaged/disadvantages of either. I'm guessing the open element isn't as robust, but since mine should never see positive gage pressure or debris I'm not worried.