Would you turn the volume down on a rock concert? I just dont get it, lol....

Apparently Virginia LEO's do...

Lol... I have no issues with the LEOs.

When you get that exhaust done and the car tuned, I need another ride, lol... You should bring it up to KDR next time I go and strap it down...

Will do, though I think that's a little ways off...

I would still need to figure out the intake arrangement before mounting and setting up the ECU. With the current arrangement it will just keep blowing couplings. I have the intake manifold design done, but still need to iron out the intake diffuser/TB adapter. This also takes money to get the materials and get friends to weld it up for me. So I still have a long way to go.

Not to mention I still need to buy and set up the digidash.

Well I will be going to pick up the car today and here's what the Shop said about it when I asked: How does it sound? Quieter?
So it looks like I have some extra 2.5in mandrel bends in 304 without legs that I'm willing to let go for the price I bought them for $14.95/ea+shipping (or you can pick them up).

Speaking of exhaust I need to pick up some exhaust tips but I need to measure a few things first. But these are the one's I'm looking at (I'll probably be painting them black as to not gain unwanted attention):
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...m-690052_w.jpg
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...m-690053_w.jpg
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...308212ns_w.jpg

#3

well, I need to post something. I'll be honest. I'm a little disappointed at how the exhaust turned out. They tried to mount the mufflers the way I wanted but ended up having to mount them the other way around so it wouldn't rub. I imagine given enough time and money I could make it the way I want, but I'm short on both.

I am happy to report that the car sound extremely quiet. The higher frequencies are all gone and it sounds like my exhaust is a gas powered sub woofer. The mufflers are tucked nicely, but they hang lower than stock so here's hoping I don't get pulled for exhaust again.

In other news my charging system is on the fritz. The story is that while I was driving to the shop to get the exhaust fixed up the charging system wasn't working until I took a corner faster than a regular person and stayed working for the 40 miles or so it took to get to Floyd, where it promptly stopped working right outside the shop. I tried to hunt for a lose wire when I went to pick it up but nothing seemed lose coming from the alternator to the post. I was running short of time so I just left the car there and said fix the charging issues for me.

I wait to hear back from him on what it was. I'm thinking it was just a loose line somewhere, but we'll see.

I dunno. #3 seems too sharp for my tastes... I'll see what I can come up with.

In the end I may just save some money and end up taking it up to Brian's to get everything the way I want it... but we'll see.

If you're going to paint them black, try to find some non-ss 304 tips.. easier to paint and would cost less. I wouldn't worry about the tips being shiny though, if they are larger than 3", than yea..maybe, but otherwise, most every new car has 2.5-3" polished exhaust anyway. LEOs just don't want to see the cans hanging way down and a loud note, thats what gets the attention.

Where did you get the work done? Back in blacksburg or near culpeper?

Pics or it didn't happen, lol....

I hear ya on that note, but I'm a stainless whore. The entire system is stainless, from the V-band adapter to the hangers. It's all stainless, why cheap out on the tips? :lol:Well.. I don't think the loud note is going to get me and the cans aren't hanging way down. It's just the amount of muffling devices I have in the car are rather big so they peak out from under the car a little. I think the only way to remedy it is to actually redo the down pipe, re orient the RB pre-silencer and shift it forward, bringing the 1-2 muffler forward and running new 2.5in pipes to the cans mounted the way I want. It's the only way I can think of doing it... which might mean I need to redo the turbo manifold to mount the wastegate a little better.
Near Blacksburg. Honestly the mechanic is not at fault in this. I recommend his shop to anyone and everyone that wants good work done for a fair price. It just wasn't in the price range for a complete exhaust overhaul.
I'll get pics as soon as I get the car back. Apparently it was the alternator. The cool thing is the mechanic is able to replace it under warranty, so I get a nice new alternator for free! w00t. I'll also need to order the parts for the FD alt I have sitting in pieces on my desk. I'm tired of not having enough amps.

I've also started working on the base map for the EMS. I'm taking the base map from the Sprint EMS and upping the resolution and applying a correction percentage for my injector size (more details on how I'm doing that in the tuning section if you're curious).

So I got my car back, and have been driving it for a few days. Went to top off some fluids and found this:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...r/IMG00161.jpg

So I'll be getting a new one under warranty, just have to make the phone call.

Sigh...


As for the exhaust it's really quiet. It doesn't start to become really audible until maybe 3000 RPM and I should be pulling exhaust db data for it sometime this upcoming week.

When you get the new alternator don't forget the spacer on the back side or it will do the same thing when the mounting bolt gets tightened it appears to be missing in that pic.

Yup, the spacer is gone. I think the guy I took it too had one of his techs do this job because he wouldn't make this sort of mistake. When I went to take out the alternator I noticed not only was the spacer missing by the nut on the back was gone too. I'll be having some words to bring this to my mechanics attention. Not only that but to get by without using the spacer the tech shoved the alternator in to a press and backed out the insert to take the space of the spacer. I am not amused. I'm fairly certain that those two things (the press and lack of spacer) that caused the alternator to crack.

So I pulled the turbo today to get it ready for some hard lines :)... but I ended up buying the wrong NPT to -AN adapter from summit. Looks like I have to go out and buy a new one, a spacer, and a flanged nut to get everything back together right. I also need to install my scavenge pump that's been sitting on my desk for a good year or so.

Turbo's getting re-installed tomorrow and hard lines will be bent and prepped for mounting.

So I didn't re-install the turbo like I said I would. I slacked. But I am still on the move to get things going. In particular; look what came in the mail today!

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...U/IMG00172.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...U/IMG00171.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...U/IMG00173.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...U/IMG00174.jpg

After years of digging, asking questions, and finally figuring it all out, I went ahead and bout me a cannon plug. I even have the Daniels crimp that I need to ensure proper crimping on the sockets and pins.

Now the question I must answer is where is the best location for the ECU to be mounted? I was thinking in the glove box for easy access to the usb port on the ECU. So... any thoughts on this?

Glove box for sure. I plan to mount mine in there as well.

Are you concerned with theft?

Lol.. no. Mine isnt a street car though....

Hmmm... I may just be paranoid.

TTT, when you get a chance would you mind telling me what heat shrink you used on your electrical connections? I'll need a 1.25 in of the cannon plugs to be heat shrinked and the stuff I've found local is really stiff which makes it almost unusable for the application I intend.


Edit: WE3RX7-- maybe this might be worthwhile for us?

http://www.google.com/products/catal...=0CIQBEPICMAI#

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/pub...7IW_ZV3lgH1LC-

or even

http://www.google.com/products/catal...=0CJ8BEPMCMAk#

Use that patch cable and mount it in the stock ECU position.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1268317059

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1268317967

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1269927280

My heatshrink I usually get from WayTek Wire.

However, if you go to ProWireUSA they have a selection of heatshrink boots available for that plug. If you're going to be going on a 90* angle though you'll need the back-shell and the appropriote heat shrink boot. They are fucking awesome and worth every penny.

Cool. I'll try to look up the 90* angle. Are they the same sort of part number as the actual plugs?

Kinda sorta, not really, but sometimes ..... yeah....

That's about as clear as mud.:lol:

Edit: From the Glenair catalog I found this part number which seems to be able to work:
M85049/39S23 N

Now I just need to hunt it down to buy the stupid thing.

Look through the prowireusa website. They should have it. Pretty sure I saw it there. If not, give MoTeC east a call, they'll have it in stock or be able to get it to you. When I'm in a hurry, don't want to look shit up, not really sure about sizes etc etc etc... I just call them up and the next day it's in my hand....

+1 for stock location!

I see an ICC box.... who turned you on to them ;)

You know darn well who you dirty old man.:smilielol5:

For the strain relief: I found them on ICC too ;) Price is similar to the plug prices. Just have to ensure I pick the right shell size.

So... I just ordered my digi dash and I need to thank Chris Ludwig from Ludwig Motorsports for the very awesome service. In fact I was so excited to deal with them that I actually did some car stuff :suspect:.... I know right? Anyways here we go:

Pics:

Mounted Haltech in stock ECU holder, with no metal band covering the unit. I may even be able to flip the PS1k around if I get the wires all lined up right and I put the cannon plug directly over the engine (no more hot exhaust to worry about). There's still a few little odds and ends I need to deal with before I go slapping it in (mostly deals with the amplifiers and the plug and how I'm still going to be fitting all the regular car things like the heater core and what not):
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...U/IMG00180.jpg

How I did it; no bands, and very sturdy.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...U/IMG00181.jpg

Scavenge pump installed, still need to do the wiring but it's very sturdy as well and won't be going anywhere anytime soon.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...o/IMG00178.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...o/IMG00177.jpg

Bad news; Digi-Dash is on backorder.

Electric speed sender got here. Ordered from www.speedometersolutions.com not a bad bit of hardware. Looks to be extremely robust. The only downside I see is thus far is that they did not include pulses/mile information with it. They have been emailed however (unless TTT you want to chime in) for the answer.

Speedometer solutions got back to me 16 pulses/rev~16000 pulses/mi

Now it's time to figure out a few bits and pieces of math (for gear calculator). I need to know MPH/1000 RPM for each gear. I'm going to hit up google, but if anyone has this knowledge off hand it would be much appreciated.

EDIT: Well, guess what I just did ;)
1st Gear: 5 mph/1000 RPM
2nd Gear: 9 mph/1000 RPM
3rd Gear: 13 mph/1000 RPM
4th Gear: 18 mph/1000 RPM
5th Gear: 26 mph/1000 RPM

As for 6th Gear... that I put at 0 mph/1000 RPM I may put it at 56 mph/1000 RPM so that it never gets selected--though I'm not sure which way I should go.

...So... I just spent over $400 in electronic components...

Nice.... I'm going to blow you away when I tally what I'm buying for the Landi!

What did you get???

Ludwig put me on to some nice coils:
http://www.034motorsport.com/oscthum...es/IGN1TTL.jpg
http://www.034motorsport.com/oscthum...ages/5-pin.png

That's the bulk of the purchases made. The other bits and pieces consist of stuff to make custom plugs, vac lines, and a silicon 90 bend to replace the last 90 degree turn that ended up being cracked.

My next round of purchases is going to consist of plugs to make the coils a stand-alone unit (make it so I can remove all the plugs at once without having to go fishing). That means 1 plug for batt ground and 12V batt and another for all the leads from the ECU.

Those are the latest coils that I tested.... fucking stout coil. Picked up 4rwhp on my car and got rid of the misfire. I don't think they'll pick up much if anything over the Boschs when shes running the 12:1 that she should... but at 10.5:1 where we were, they got rid of the misfire and added 4rwhp uptop.... nothing down low where she was running where she should but yeah... damn fine coils those are. My only complaint about them is that they are BIG

All you need to make those a sub-harness is an 8 or 12 pin deutch. I've got my coils grounded to the mounting plate. I've got an M6 stud with an 8ga wire that daisy chains from the bat, to the power post, to the firewall, to the housings, to that little M6 stud then out to the coils. So when I pull the ignitions, it's only one 8 pin deutsch plug, 4 bolts and the plug wires and the whole thing comes off before you can say DEMS SUCK!

lol, I'm glad to hear that you were able to test those coils. I'm even more impressed that they did that much for you. Now I'm excited about them getting here and and couple that with the IQ3 dash that should come back in stock at some point in the near future; I'll actually have to start getting into the electrics of my car.

I think just due to money and time constraints I'll be holding off on buying parts for my custom intake manifold and will instead continue using the bastardization I call an intake. May consider picking up a Turbo II intake (if one crops up for under $50), but even that may be more trouble than it's worth. But then I'll have to figure out how I'm going to mount a full sweep TPS.... SUCKKKKKK.

I also still need to design and send you the designs for you to make me a coolant reservoir/recirculation tank, ugh. Soooo much to do still. Later today (it's after midnight) I'll get to do hard line bending. Oh joy.

Whatever, we all know the LS2 coils were just as good ;)

Tyler - one320fc just moved into your sister's neighborhood and we've been working on putting his '83 LE back together. When your through there next time, we should all get together. Apparently, there is a boosted miata there too...

pssssshhh... NO WE DON"T!!! For all we know those coils are the reason you didn't gain any power at all from the last time you were on the dyno. You should've with the changes you made.... LS2 coils included. Makes me wonder if the reason you and MC combined couldn't match the RE's power was because of those coils ;)

Hey now - you only beat our combined power AFTER you installed MC's coil. The way you brought your car in... it missed us by a few ponies, lol...

I will probably not use the LS2 coils after all on my FC... simple matter is that the other coils use standard terminals/boots and thus are less PITA to make wires for... and cheaper.