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-   RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) (https://rotarycarclub.com/forumdisplay.php?f=37)
-   -   worth rebuilding my engine? (https://rotarycarclub.com/showthread.php?t=9011)

RETed 09-09-2009 07:57 PM

Buy any of "cheap" ATF.
Don't buy the stuff that's specific to one model - i.e. Honda.

NoDOHC 09-09-2009 09:15 PM

A few additional pieces of info:

The engine idles rather smoothly for a dead face on a rotor, but revs very slowly (like it is running on one rotor).

We unplugged each rotor in its turn. The engine sputtered and died if the front rotor was unplugged, but did try to stay running. The engine sputtered and died almost as fast when the rear rotor was unplugged (still trying to stay running).

The engine would not start on either rotor alone.

This goes against my previous experience with blown rotaries, when they would start and run and drive fine (except for extreme gutlessness and very hot exhaust).

I guess I am not sure that this is an engine issue or if it is a fuel injection issue.
It almost acts like it is running very rich or has very retarded timing.

Maybe we can pull the exhaust manifold off and look at the apex seals, that will indicate if the engine is worth rebuilding.

Silver86 09-10-2009 05:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoDOHC (Post 96329)

Maybe we can pull the exhaust manifold off and look at the apex seals, that will indicate if the engine is worth rebuilding.

youll have to let me know when youre free next. well have to get something going.

RETed 09-10-2009 11:38 AM

You need to try and do some basic troubleshooting then?

Eliminate ignition (spark) first, since this is the easiest.
First, confirm all 4 spark plugs are firing.
Then, confirm (with a timing gun) that they are firing at the proper moment.

If ignition system looks good, move onto the fuel...
I would swap the fuel injectors just as a test - does the problem change?
Swap either front to back (primaries) or swap primaries for secondaries.
Also, might want to check spray pattern from the primaries by tying the fuel injectors to the rail and crank the engine with the injectors out of their holes - helps to have a friend here.


-Ted

TitaniumTT 09-13-2009 08:27 PM

Before fiddling with swapping injectors I would make sure that there is proper rail pressure. It could literally be as simple as a bad pump, regulator or even a clogged filter.

NoDOHC 09-13-2009 10:40 PM

For that matter, I have lots of good S4 injectors, I will bring a set down (but I am guessing that is not the problem, I think it is sensor related). We will check the timing too. (I know all coils are firing, we already tested that). If the engine didn't idle so smoothly, I would be guessing vacuum leak.

Fuel pressure is also a good one (I think I have a gauge somewhere).

It is also possible that I have driven my Haltech '86 so long that I forgot how slowly stock rotaries rev. (although I think the '91 revs faster).

Silver86 09-14-2009 05:38 AM

what i think ill do before we get busy with this... im gonna buy a new fuel filter and some newer gas... the 1/4 tank thats in there now is the same 1/4 tank that was in there when i bought the car.


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