a higher fuse and a better connection to the alternator no problems so far drove it yesterday and did a couple shake down runs it in today. should be ready for the dragon after paint.

If all of your connections are good, and all grounds are correct you don't need a larger fuse block. If any of the grounds are missing or bad they can cause all sorts of electrical problems. It will try to find ground anyway it can causing overloaded supply wiring. Check voltage drop through all connections.

If you up the amperage you can overload the original wiring. After you get it sorted and it will not blow regular fuses call Ray and get the fuse links. You can also find fuse wire at some parts or electronic stores. You can then make your own. Putting a penny in the fuse holder works until the house burns down.

But what im getting at is that a FB, more importantly a GSL-SE, alternator is putting out 50~70 amps (right?). By using a 10amp (which blew), 20 amp(which blew), and a 40amp(which blew) size fuse its safe to say that the alternators current was blowing the too small fuses. So in practice a 60~80 amp fuse works fine, which I suggested which nobody else has, other than use another fusible link.

I dont know that it is about fusible links that I personally dont like, but a fuse is easier to source, buy, install, and check if blown than one of those links. Sure others may see the stock fusible link block as fine, but for others where the block disintigrates from heat and age the FC block is perfectly adaptable to make a secure location for new fuses, and you can then add a fuse for another accessory since the FB would only use 5 of the 6 available slots.

If all of the grounds and connections are correct and good then there will not be any fuse blowing problems. If you have to resort to using bigger fuses you haven't fixed the problem. Just masking it.
One of the things with fuse links is that they very rarely go bad unless something serious is wrong with the electrical system. All of the onboard fuses will usually fail first. The fuse links are all supply side so if they go the issue us usually between them and the main fuse block. Alternator or wiring or headlight system or wiring are the most common causes for them to blow.
If you over fuse them you allow more current through the wiring harness and electronic components than the system was designed for. Most of the wiring is designed for 10 or 15 amps. If you run more through they will overheat and eventually fail.
I don't know how many wiring harness jobs I've done where someone replaced the main fuse with a 8 gauge wire and fried the complete wiring system.

Save your self grief down the road, go to one of the FSM sites and download the wiring diagram for that year platform and check out the whole system. One of the most important parts is the W page, showing the Electrical Wiring Schematic. It shows how everything is interrated. Playing with one circuit can effect other circuits.

I've had cars that blew the audio fuse but there were problems in other circuits. Usually someone doing creative wiring, not wanting to pay someone to do it correctly and or not having the wiring diagrams.