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Pic 1. Air Bleed Solenoid, it's an emissions part. Not to counter anyone else's advice but I suggest you put it back unless you've done your homework and you know what it does and why.
Pic 2. Intake filter box assy. I see you said you got an adapter from auto zone... Keep in mind that the air flow meter you see sitting in front of the intake hose is REQUIRED or the vehicle will not run for more than a couple of seconds after you start it. I'm not sure if you can find an adapter to fit that at auto zone but that's pretty cool if you did. It should look something like the metal adapter pictured in this ebay listing: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-92...ht_4167wt_1085 3. Coolant fill cap assy... missing the cap and the little adapter that mounts on the filler neck. http://www.mazdatrix.com/b8.htm Also, I see in pic two that you're missing the radiator fan shroud. I HIGHLY recommend you replace it and also check to be sure that the splash gaurd is installed under the engine. These are both essential to direct airflow through the radiator and engine bay and heat is a major concern in these old rotaries. There should also be a two piece plastic cover over the gap between the engine bay and the front bumper, I can't see if it's there in the pics. This is also important for directing air through the radiator, if it's missing you can pic up a nice one piece replacement from corksport. http://corksport.com/store/category/...rx-Engine.html |
i already have the intake adapter and all the plastic pieces that you mentioned.
but really..50 bucks for a small piece?does anyone have one used? |
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i got one at autozone for $15
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so did i yesterday.
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well..they had the wrong part...but now i have the car running..sorta..it starts up then shuts right off.idk what the problem is.help?
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and i still need the parts in pic 1 and pic 3
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il try that out later. just woke up.
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(Correct me if I get any of this wrong) I talked to him earlier and it runs for about a minute then shuts off. It idles at about 1500rpm roughly, and then no matter what (hitting the gas, not, etc.) it just dies after a while. Every vacuum leak I've ever had it's possible to keep the car running by hitting the gas (including when I left the BAC hose off so there was a HUGE amount of unmetered air going into the engine [granted it would only run at over 5k rpm, but it started and did run]). |
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The injector thought could be plausible. It was in a field before he bought it and he's been working on getting the bad gas out. However, again, why does it shut off no matter what? This is all based on the assumption that I understand the problem correct from a 5 minute phone call. :) |
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