Rotary Car Club

Rotary Car Club (https://rotarycarclub.com/index.php)
-   RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) (https://rotarycarclub.com/forumdisplay.php?f=37)
-   -   need some help (https://rotarycarclub.com/showthread.php?t=6669)

Ender 02-18-2009 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tetro (Post 72718)
stock.the whole car is stock.

for now

Now that's what I like to hear!

RoughRex 02-18-2009 09:49 PM

Pic 1. Air Bleed Solenoid, it's an emissions part. Not to counter anyone else's advice but I suggest you put it back unless you've done your homework and you know what it does and why.

Pic 2. Intake filter box assy. I see you said you got an adapter from auto zone... Keep in mind that the air flow meter you see sitting in front of the intake hose is REQUIRED or the vehicle will not run for more than a couple of seconds after you start it. I'm not sure if you can find an adapter to fit that at auto zone but that's pretty cool if you did. It should look something like the metal adapter pictured in this ebay listing: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-92...ht_4167wt_1085

3. Coolant fill cap assy... missing the cap and the little adapter that mounts on the filler neck. http://www.mazdatrix.com/b8.htm

Also, I see in pic two that you're missing the radiator fan shroud. I HIGHLY recommend you replace it and also check to be sure that the splash gaurd is installed under the engine. These are both essential to direct airflow through the radiator and engine bay and heat is a major concern in these old rotaries. There should also be a two piece plastic cover over the gap between the engine bay and the front bumper, I can't see if it's there in the pics. This is also important for directing air through the radiator, if it's missing you can pic up a nice one piece replacement from corksport. http://corksport.com/store/category/...rx-Engine.html

Tetro 02-18-2009 10:58 PM

i already have the intake adapter and all the plastic pieces that you mentioned.

but really..50 bucks for a small piece?does anyone have one used?

vex 02-18-2009 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tetro (Post 72816)
i already have the intake adapter and all the plastic pieces that you mentioned.

but really..50 bucks for a small piece?does anyone have one used?

again i do. lol.

TehMonkay 02-18-2009 11:43 PM

i got one at autozone for $15

Tetro 02-20-2009 02:01 PM

so did i yesterday.
thanks

Tetro 02-25-2009 07:48 PM

well..they had the wrong part...but now i have the car running..sorta..it starts up then shuts right off.idk what the problem is.help?

Tetro 02-25-2009 07:49 PM

and i still need the parts in pic 1 and pic 3

RoughRex 02-25-2009 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tetro (Post 74049)
well..they had the wrong part...but now i have the car running..sorta..it starts up then shuts right off.idk what the problem is.help?

Un-metered intake air is known to cause this issue. Make sure you have the Air Flow Meter (AFM) installed, connected, and is sitting level (it uses a flap to measure incoming air so if it's not level the flap may be affected by gravity and the reading may be off). Also check for major vacuum leaks. The car runs because the ECU ignores the AFM during startup but as soon as it switches from the "start" sequence to "run" the car dies because the AFM reading is too far off from what's actually making it into the intake.

Tetro 02-26-2009 10:21 AM

il try that out later. just woke up.

My5ABaby 02-27-2009 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoughRex (Post 74078)
Un-metered intake air is known to cause this issue. Make sure you have the Air Flow Meter (AFM) installed, connected, and is sitting level (it uses a flap to measure incoming air so if it's not level the flap may be affected by gravity and the reading may be off). Also check for major vacuum leaks. The car runs because the ECU ignores the AFM during startup but as soon as it switches from the "start" sequence to "run" the car dies because the AFM reading is too far off from what's actually making it into the intake.

Although you're right about the AFM function at startup, it doesn't seem to be the issue here.

(Correct me if I get any of this wrong)
I talked to him earlier and it runs for about a minute then shuts off. It idles at about 1500rpm roughly, and then no matter what (hitting the gas, not, etc.) it just dies after a while. Every vacuum leak I've ever had it's possible to keep the car running by hitting the gas (including when I left the BAC hose off so there was a HUGE amount of unmetered air going into the engine [granted it would only run at over 5k rpm, but it started and did run]).

vex 02-27-2009 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by My5ABaby (Post 74458)
Although you're right about the AFM function at startup, it doesn't seem to be the issue here.

(Correct me if I get any of this wrong)
I talked to him earlier and it runs for about a minute then shuts off. It idles at about 1500rpm roughly, and then no matter what (hitting the gas, not, etc.) it just dies after a while. Every vacuum leak I've ever had it's possible to keep the car running by hitting the gas (including when I left the BAC hose off so there was a HUGE amount of unmetered air going into the engine [granted it would only run at over 5k rpm, but it started and did run]).

AFM usually does cause that problem. I'm not sure if it's for a minute and a half though. Maybe at the most 30 seconds with Cold Start Assist still intact. I'd suggest setting the TPS as well as the bleed screw up top. Beyond that I would check the condition of the injectors, insuring that they're running correctly and firing and not seized.

My5ABaby 02-28-2009 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vex (Post 74497)
AFM usually does cause that problem. I'm not sure if it's for a minute and a half though. Maybe at the most 30 seconds with Cold Start Assist still intact. I'd suggest setting the TPS as well as the bleed screw up top. Beyond that I would check the condition of the injectors, insuring that they're running correctly and firing and not seized.

The AFM only comes into play after 500 rpm. As such, why would it run perfectly fine for about a minute and then die no matter what's going on? That doesn't indicate a vacuum leak to me. Granted, it would if you could keep it running after that point by keeping the idle up. However, in this case, (from the info I was given and my understanding of the issue), engine speed does not change the fact that it shuts off.

The injector thought could be plausible. It was in a field before he bought it and he's been working on getting the bad gas out. However, again, why does it shut off no matter what?

This is all based on the assumption that I understand the problem correct from a 5 minute phone call. :)


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:50 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Hosted by www.GotPlacement.com