Im doing the water jacket mod. Will post pics tomorrow.

Im doing a crappy job BTW. Doing it by hand its quite hard....

it does the job anyways, even if it does not look pretty

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2341/...852a0ede_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3120/...47f733ac_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2417/...7cfda7ba_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2032/...5b795541_b.jpg

Another place to look is the flashing left over on the irons from the mold. I go through and clean all of the excess metal off to smooth out the flow.

Dan

Just for the record:

to do this properly you gotta have great pulse ... or a CNC machine up your ass

:D

On my next set of housings I am going to try a wood router and carbide bit. Routers have great height adjustments.

Barry

I never load the engine cold. I wait for 80˚C before boosting and always use at least a 2 minute cool-down before shutting down (a habit from working on turbine engines which is their requirement).

So I think the cracking has to be just high heat from poor cooling in that area.

The housing with the cracks didn't have the 3rd gen housing cooling mods, but both housings were lifting in the spark plug area. Notice the carbon stains to the side of the hole.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...5-2523_IMG.jpg

I have a theory that this lifting of the apex seal and jamming of the triangle tip is what breaks the seal in some cases without detonation being present. I found one unbroken but cracked apex seal. It was cracking from the bottom! I visualized them breaking from the top.

Barry

I am thinking that we need to increase the temperature in the carbon stained areas and drop the temp at the plug so I am going to try this.

The slotted spoke will concentrate the cooling conduction effect to the plug boss but not to the housing.

Maybe added grooving perpendicular to water flow would also help.

Barry

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...6-2659_IMG.jpg

damn, i see what you did. So, how safe is it to remove so much of that metal? What boost do you normally see?

Normally 14 but up to 20 psi. I checked out a 16X and a rx8 housing for the latest cooling mods. They are similar. But they remove most of the fin that could be used to cool the plug bore.

Barry


http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...Rx8Housing.jpg

Very Interesting Barry! I would love to see the results of this mod. Maybe we could get one of the CNC guys to program this in and mass cut the housing... I also like the idea of parallel groves vs. the perpendicular grooves I've seen before.

This will be my next test. Presently I am running the enlarged passages around the sparkplugs with the Mazmart pump.
Barry

You actually release more thermal energy with turbulant flow (not saying removing the flashing is a bad thing, just that it would be better to cause turbulence in the coolant stream so that lower energy coolant comes in contact with more surface area).... did I make any sense at all?

Yes it does. I would like to use computer heat-sink type devices on the flat surfaces next to the plugs.
Barry

Fin type (copper)?

To minimize dissimilar metal corrosion we should stick with aluminum.

Barry