:rofl:

Ted, I am a little surprised that you, as a moderator, would become an advocate for someone over the truth.

I was under the impression that you had disassembled many engines.....
Certainly you should have observed what is depicted below.

On the left side you see the wear from driven side seals... on the right observe that there is a ghost of wear ..... no wear whatsoever.

Barry

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...psbvhj0p2s.jpg

Barry, what do you mean by #3?

Make sure its not too lean/rich under boost? all parts of the map?

Nah, I like the truth actually...

My conclusions are with discussions with someone with a Masters degree in Mechanical Engineering.

We blew up a 13B-REW with no turbo (long story) that only managed to put down 130 - 160hp at the wheels on a DynoJet.
The engine was running milled 3mm rotors with 3mm apex seals.
HOW DO YOU BLOW UP SOMETHING LIKE THAT?

The apex seals did not have chipped corners like most of your failed apex seals.
(You did tear down enough engines to observe this, right?)
The apex seals were cracked straight down the center - height-wise, of course.
I have never seen apex seal failure like this except for this one particular incident.
The mechanical engineer stated that this failure was a consistent with a harmonic oscillation failure of that type of material.

Why am I talking about apex seals when you're taking about side seals and corners seals?
You're smart enough to make that connection, right?

Oh, and just to back that up...
It's been documented by Mazda in a Mazda technical review used as reference for an SAE paper.
You're smart enough to go look that up too, right?

So, you posted a pic of just about 3 engine's worth of corner seals...
How about the other thousand you've come across in your experience?
Are you going to state that all the other thousands of corner seals look exactly like the ones in your pic?


-Ted

Too complex...

1) Strap car on dyno
2) Adjust fuel maps
3) Adjust ignition timing maps
4) Go back to #2 and #3 until you're satified

This is how I tune my cars for highest horsepower, even NA...

Oh, here's a secret: this works for piston engines too...


-Ted

Barry, could you elaborate on #4

Aiming for a certain peak chamber pressure vs a given crank angle is fine in theory as most people don't have access to in-cylinder pressure monitoring so its kind of a moot point. In practice, OEM level calibration involves monitoring the crank angle at which 50% of the combustion charge has been consumed. The optimal point for CA50 has a 2-3 degree range for any engine, whereas peak cylinder pressure can be deemed "optimal" for a range more than twice that.

knonfs,
This is what the Excel program looks like.
send me a PM and with your email and I can send you a copy.
Most people don't understand the importance of an ideal mixture and it's to improvement to the burn rate.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...pboard02-1.jpg


Then on the second folder you take your corrected base map and check it any anomalies.
Barry


http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...elmapchart.jpg

Brian,
This screenshot is a little hard to make out but it shows that the closer to 45 degrees (in the 5000 to 8000 rpm range) the more peak pressure is made.
Notice that each ignition event is different and that the best pressure point can be determined comparing pressure to degrees for peak.

Location is the on the bottom chart and in this example we would add degrees of advance as noted then retest.

Barry

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...location-2.jpg

Happy Bday the other day Barry.:biggthumpup:

I'm a bit sceptical about side seal vibration causing apex seal failure, the pressure differential across the long sides combined with deposits would mean a massive frictional force to overcome sliding back and forth in the side seal grooves, with a minuscule area at each end to provide motive force via gas pressures and very small distance for the seal to build up momentum.

Thanks for your continued input Barry.

Edit: couldn't let this go, and wanted to give a basic explanation for those playing at home.

The only way motion of a rotor could push/turn a side seal "backwards" (remembering that the oil seals have directional springs as well) was if you had entirely different e-shaft/seal/rotor design (leaving large dead zones on the sides of the rotors) which allowed the side/corner seals on one side of the rotor to be inside the tooth contact radius of the rotor gear. Not practical or desirable.

You can see this simply for yourself by drawing a rotor and stat gear and taking a radius from the point of tooth contact (the stationary point and centre of motion at any time) to anywhere on the rotor, only points lying inside the rotor gear can have a back/forth motion relative to the side plate (through an engine cycle). Even then it would only present a problem if the majority of an independently moving seal part was inside an arc of radius equal to teh gear radius from the tooth contact. That is you could have an engine design with circular oil control seals inside the rotor gear radius (on the off-gear side of the rotor) with the same directional spring design as ours without a problem.

Compare the above Fraction Burn and Combustion Rate rate to the result achieved in this much later experiment.
You can see the dates of each test in the top left corner.
This total increase happens by many very slight incremental improvements.
Barry


http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps6pgtgro9.png