Originally Posted by C. Ludwig (Post 287312)

I've used the cheap flare tools with a bit of success but have since started having a local brake specialist cut and flare all my lines. I use coat hanger or similar to lay out the lines and get a length and take that and the tube nuts in and have them make up the lines. The line is higher quality and has proven to be more corrosion resistant than what I'd bought through Summit and the flares never leak. Stainless line is also an option if you want something that looks really nice. Just to be clear, this shop isn't one of the $99 four wheel brake places. They do mostly fleet service and do top rate stuff. Any decently large town should have something similar in the area.

Also, working in the OE production world, one of the tricks we use on leaky flare fittings is tighten and loosen the fitting 4-5 times in succession. Many times this will help a flare that's not quite right to get itself sealed up.

Originally Posted by RXtacy (Post 287319)

It may seem like semantics, but I hope that is actually Nickle/Copper alloy tubing which is DOT approved. Plain copper tubing would not be a good idea for a brake system.

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig (Post 287312)

I've used the cheap flare tools with a bit of success but have since started having a local brake specialist cut and flare all my lines. I use coat hanger or similar to lay out the lines and get a length and take that and the tube nuts in and have them make up the lines. The line is higher quality and has proven to be more corrosion resistant than what I'd bought through Summit and the flares never leak. Stainless line is also an option if you want something that looks really nice. Just to be clear, this shop isn't one of the $99 four wheel brake places. They do mostly fleet service and do top rate stuff. Any decently large town should have something similar in the area.

Also, working in the OE production world, one of the tricks we use on leaky flare fittings is tighten and loosen the fitting 4-5 times in succession. Many times this will help a flare that's not quite right to get itself sealed up.

Originally Posted by RXtacy (Post 287319)

It may seem like semantics, but I hope that is actually Nickle/Copper alloy tubing which is DOT approved. Plain copper tubing would not be a good idea for a brake system.

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank (Post 287336)

http://fedhillusa.com/

The flaring tools they sell/rent are top notch and the tubing beats the hell out of automotive store tubing.

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank (Post 287336)

http://fedhillusa.com/

The flaring tools they sell/rent are top notch and the tubing beats the hell out of automotive store tubing.

Originally Posted by Fendamonky (Post 287368)

Why do you exclude the front brakes from your proportioning valve?

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank (Post 287379)

Because you want full pressure to your front brakes. The rears you want to set so they lock slightly after the fronts do. If the rear brakes lock first, the car will want to swap ends on you. This could be considered a bad thing in the middle of a corner.

Originally Posted by speedjunkie (Post 287301)

Ok, I'm an idiot lol. Last night I had it typed out correctly and then changed it thinking I had it wrong. Turns out I was right the first time. The port directly under the reservoir goes to the rear brakes, and the port at the end of the master cylinder goes to the front brakes. Here are pics of the current setup. I finally got them to stop seeping but I'm still paranoid lol, thus the towels. The whole system is pressurized and the brakes are bled, but I'm paranoid because the engine bay has fresh paint also. The bender tool dinked the lines a little but it made the bends much tighter and cleaner looking. I ran the line for the front brakes between the master cylinder and the reservoir just because it seemed like the most direct route.