You talking about the black interior???

Or you talking about the other gray interior?

Or just parts in general?

I need stupid stuff like the ECU "cover" and the dash metal panel, although I have no idea how much it'll cost to ship something bulky like that. :(


-Ted

Without a turbo, 220rwhp is pretty far out there unless you do some serious porting. In that case, a turbo is probably more reliable and gives you a better ride and potential to make more power.

Not really.

Chris's FB has an RE-W block (non-turbo), S5 9.7 rotors, big port and a Haltech. I think he said it made 185rwhp.

But, being in a lighter chassis, I bet it flies!!!

Standalone EMS + aftermarket (short runner) intake manifold should push it over the 200hp mark.
Assuming exhaust is already efficient.
You can cheat and push the peak HP towards redline and just raise your redline over the stock...


-Ted

Bits and bobs from both interiors. I like the black interior so whatever I can swap from the '89 to the '86 I'll keep. I believe anything involving or adjacent to the auto seatbelts and sunroof in the S5 is different so those pieces (e.g. headliner, a/b-pillars, rear carpet, hatch trim, etc.) won't be used. I do have an unmolested ECU cover from the S4 car that I don't need. I'm not sure what you mean dash metal panel though. Are you referring to the metal framework?

For the curious here are the control/intake/engine/exhaust specifics:

-ECU: Haltech Sprint RE with FFE VR trigger kit
-Injectors: 2 X ID1000's at 50+ psi base pressure
-Ignition: 4 X AEM IGN-1A coils
-Throttle Body: 55 mm IDA-style ITB's
-Intake Manifold: Custom equal length with ~12" runners
-Housings: S4 TII Irons and S5 TII housings with Defined Autoworks "Circuit" street port
-Rotating assembly: S5 N/A Rotors, RX-8 e-shaft, and aluminum flywheel balanced to 10,000 RPM
-Exhaust: Defined Autoworks manifold and custom 2.5" pipe with single Racing Beat presilencer and muffler

Defined Autoworks supposedly made 232 whp at 8700 RPM with the same port job, rotors, and exhaust manifold. They were using a -RE intake setup, had scalloped rotors, and obviously a different exhaust setup. I know my non-scalloped rotors will reduce power but there's no saying what my intake/exhaust setup will do. Honestly if I'm over 200 whp I'll be happy. Also, NoDOHC has demonstrated the ability of the 4-port engines to make impressive torque numbers with a similar arragement.

I'm actually in need for the rear carpet - rear bins or rear seats?
This is the carpet that runs from behind the front seats all the way back and covers the spare tire, right?
If you got the fiberglass bin "framework", I'd be willing to take that off your hands too; I believe this thing can be broken down in half?

I'll take the ECU metal panel, if you're willing to ship it.
I dunno where mines went - it kinda walked off when I installed my Haltech E8. :P

There's a metal panel that spans across the top of the dash board.
It's about 6" - 8" across, but it goes from A-pillar to A-pillar across the dash.
The decrepit plastic front windshield defroster vents sit on it.
When removed, it's rather flimsy.

Are you in a rush you take care of this?
I usually stop all my shipping due to Christmas.
I'd be willing to take care of this after the new year?


> For the curious here are the control/intake/engine/exhaust specifics:
> -ECU: Haltech Sprint RE with FFE VR trigger kit
> -Throttle Body: 55 mm IDA-style ITB's
> -Intake Manifold: Custom equal length with ~12" runners

That should do 200...


-Ted

Got the rear suspension and drivetrain fully bolted into the silver car this weekend.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-D...207_163336.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q...207_163410.jpg

Of course I misplaced the nuts for the stub shafts so I'll have to finish that later. New fuel lines were installed before the rear end was put back in.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8...207_163543.jpg

I think my phone's camera is dying.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...207_163734.jpg

Last night I realized I have the line reversed. The feed line should be on the inside and the return on the outside. Shouldn't be too hard to swap already on the car.

lookin good! :D

It might just be the lighting in your picture, but it looks to me like there is a hint of a kink in the SS fuel lines. Just wanted you to be aware, extra eyes on target always helps - see the red circle in picture below.

Looking good though!

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1386609700

Thanks! Except for that one swaybar bolt the silver car's been easier to work on than the red car!

Huh, I never noticed that before. I'm pretty sure that's an illusion as it'd take quite a lot to kink a braided stainless line but I'll definitely take a look the next time I'm out there. Thanks for looking out!

Got bored the other night and decided to take a break from disassembling the red car. Tore the stock cluster apart in preparation for a custom setup.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8...212_203811.jpg

Is that compatable with a 1983 gs ? I need a few parts, i doubt this but wanted to ask

No.


-Ted

question
 

Ok thanks man. looking good what you did.

They certainly won't bolt right in but I imagine the tachometer, voltmeter, oil pressure, and fuel level gauges would work if you used the S5 FC sending units. The transmissions are essentially the same so with the correct rear end and speedometer drive/driven gears I imagine it would work as well. Lots of custom work though.

Played with some cluster concepts last night. The current leading concepts are #1:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m...213_203852.jpg

and #2:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...213_205259.jpg

#1 is nice because it puts 7 gauges right in front of me but is a little cluttered. #2 is cleaner but requires me to put fuel level, voltmeter, and the wideband in the console though I could add an extra gauge in the middle (voltmeter?) for a total of six in the cluster.

Today I braved the weather and worked on the silver car. Got the rear end buttoned up completely and swapped the fuel lines around so they're in the correct locations now. I also confirmed the fuel lines are not pinched as pointed out above (thanks for the heads up though!):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R...214_152002.jpg

I've been selling a ton of parts from both cars and the silver car is slowly disappearing:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q...214_152050.jpg

Bad part is I ended up breaking just about every bolt on the bottom of the car so there'll be lots of drilling and tapping in my future. Also came across the worst part of the car yet:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5...214_152139.jpg

Looks like the car was in a low-speed, offset collision on the passenger's side. I'll likely have to get the whole piece replaced.