they're fucking with you, even the cheapest builds i have to dick around with i would rather stab myself with a spoon than put a scotch lock on a car...

of course now they're going to argue that scotch locks do have a place just to prove me wrong. :)

Super 33+ is the only one I will use, and as stated earlier, it's primarily for bundeling.... I don't use it for insulation purposes.

:smilielol5:

Generally a new ECU will come with a "harness." Some are better than others... I very much dislike the helltech harnesses & wires... I feel that the insulation is very thick which just increases the size of the bundle and makes the whole thing a bit more daunting.... Tefzel is where it's at...



See above... anything bought at autosuck or any of the equivalents is pure garbage. For non engine harness wires I get the TXL from a variety of different sources.... anything engine related is Tefzel, there is a Mil-Spec number that I cannot remember but it can be purchased through Pro-Wire USA is the cheapest I've found, for the Raychem stuff as well....

I'll take a picture in the next few days....

See above as to what the ECU comes with

Deutsch DTM, DT, or DTP depending on current load, the reality of it though is that you don't need very many of these... fuck... I wish TeakFC3S was still up.... fucking queen asshat did a helltech install tips thread... I puked laughter all over the place... fucking retard put in a weatherpack 6-pin connector to build a subharness for his fuel injectors... sooooo many things wrong with that... weather packs being rated for like 30A, splicing wires in a harness, soldering on little pieces of tin, breaks in the wires, zomg,.. what a loser....

Raychem DR-25 is the norm. Doublelined polytolephin adhesive lined heatshrink, either a 2:1 shrink or a 4:1 shrink depending on what is being shrunk....

To many variables, you'll be buying a few different crimpers depending on the connector....

Yes

Look at places like waytek and terminal supply co, they have a list of the crimps and the correct crimpers.


I will take a picture, you will ship me your car ;)

More than likely... they are nice for the money, but there is still ALOT to do even after you get their harness....

Yes.... it's going on CL for $2750 after I figure out what the fuck is up with it... already bought Maggie a new Jeep, mechanics special with a totally unmolested wiring harness.... only needed a rebuilt head... fucking thing is MINT

Big Laugh

:smilielol5:

I wanna see!!!!

they are totally useless

They have two places.... either in the trash or falling out of harness into the mouth of the person using them choking them to death.... or Peter cramming them down BDC's throat.

Lets put it this way.... when we redid the shitty stock harness in the Landi, $1400 ... One Thousand four hundred dollars was spent.... and not one wire was bought... I already had like 20 spools.... and all the tooling.... the DMC crimpers I have were $317 and the battery cable crimps ... and most of the others range from $80-100 each.... I have like 7 pairs of crimpers...

I keep rolls of 33+ and 88 around for different purposes. They're rarely used on wire though. :lol: 88 (heavy duty 8.5 mil) and 22 (extra heavy duty 10 mil) work a bit better for a lot of the things I actually use electrical tape for than 33+. It gets used like stretchy duct tape for things like keeping window a/c units from rattling so much. I can't say that I've ever wrapped a harness with them, though.

I really think you'll be fairly well impressed at the price point. The crimpers by themselves with just the PP jaws and no case are only $40, but they're no lightweights.

We'll have to do some side-by-side testing vs the "official" tools.

Link to Bosch Fuel Injector connectors male and female.

Even some other Mazda connectors.


http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/electrical-connectors/

Thanks for saving me the time. :lol:

For wire, I use mil-spec M22759/16 for just about everything that's being made from scratch and not using a manufacturer's flying lead. It's commonly referred to as Tefzel. Raychem Spec 44 and Spec 55 would be the next step up. There are shielded and twisted pairs of all three available. Just depends on how anal you want to get with everything. Like everything, there is hobby level that performs well and won't require a 2nd mortgage and then there is LMP spec that is complete overkill for most anything this side of La Sarthe.

www.prowireusa.com has a great selection of Tefzel, Deutsch DT* connectors, mil-spec and Deutsch Autosport connectors, shrink boots and transitions, DR25, etc. Prices are hard to beat as well. If you don't see it on the website or it says out of stock, give Joe a call and he'll hook you up.

If you need any of the stock Mazda connectors, we keep a lot of those in stock.

I don't even use electrical tape to bundle wires for a harness. Leaves too much residue and bulks up under the shrink. I use Kapton tape. Holds well and leaves no residue.

Here is a good write up on harness construction. http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/sq6wiringloom.html

Big BUCKS is an understatement!

I think this is major overkill for most hobbyist, and above and beyond Fendamonkey had in mind?


-Ted

I can see this thread turning to shit faster than the A typical Microwreck instal with scotch locks!

Agree's fuck that! no need for anything more than some scotch locks, soldering iron and a Microwreck and some 5$ spark plugs and dildo coils of some V8 kuuunts from a forum univeristy site LOL using 16 ECU's in the wrong mode to control an air o plane jelly submarine car.

Australias #1 LOL Good enough for 8's good enough for Formula 1 :biggthumpup: :18: :Chevy_anim: :tongue1: :cheers2:

:hat:

All could have been done with some scotch locks and a soldering iron :biggrinjester: WINNING

(rbracing)So Bob is a friend of mine, he lists some cool stuff on his site and he has done more then any of the pretenders on the internest can dream about, inc racing at Le-Mans. We are both Pectel ECU runners ;)

I agree with Ted though, some of the stuff seen there is just way over the top and nothing to do with this poor blokes thread.

Lets face it who the fuck has $25,000 worth of electronics in their cars? let alone $5,000 worth of wiring and connectors @ cost price.

LOTS of good wiring can be done for a fraction of the price and no need to go to Raychem boots or DR heat shrink etc etc etc ....... :lol:

And fuck me all jesting aside there is nothing wrong with soldering so long as you know how to fucking use one! :nopity:

Once good set of wire strippers, a few good crimping tools, some Deutsch connectors, some heat shrink, some braided conjuit and you can make a nice harness for a fraction of the dildo spec NASA race team spec

http://www.rywire.com/catalog/images..._big/base1.jpg

I think people just get way carried away with this must be Autosport connectors, cryton dildo tape, mil spec tefzel wire, fucken DCM crimpers blah blah blah blah................ nice if you are rich but not everyone is, so no need to say this is what it is and the rest is shit.

There is stuff you can do for a 1/10th of the price and for the layman hobbiest its going to last you a fucking life time!

p.s. everyone knows scotch locks and microtech and BDC are CUUUUNTS!......... just trying to fire up the discussion :)

from $3k+ and several month harness builds, to scotch locks, this thread covers it all.