The local chain auto parts stores carry them. I get mine at AUTOZONE. NGK in stock heat ranges unless your heavily modified or have raised boost levels. Get some silver anti-seize while your there and use a little on the plug threads.

Yeah, I knew you were already running it, my rant on A/I was more geared towards the OP and anybody else who might read the thread that doesn't already have it.

Just go with the standard NGK BUREQ7 and BUREQ9 plugs (I'm pretty sure their code is BUREQ). Like Signal said, you really don't have any need for different plugs until you really start to change the boost levels and power output of your engine.

After how much time? My rotors looked great after 20k using Amsoil Interceptor 2 stroke pre-mix oil (and driving the car hard helps as well). With that said, the water/alcohol makes alot of sense and I'll put it on someday, I just don't really feel a need to turn the boost up because I get enough tickets already and beat essentially 99% of the cars on the road as it is

This is a great point, and probably the best argument of all for water injection

Oh - and use Iridium plugs, they are the ONLY plugs that last 10k+ in these motors

That's after only about 5k miles I'd guess. Sucks that the engine is down again because of that, but in all honesty it'd need to get rebuilt again anyway since a crap tune I had (for about 3 months) warped the apex seals in my rear rotor.

Funny thing is though, I still made basically 470whp with low compression, bad rear seals, and a weak side seal. I'm VERY curious to see how much I'll make with everything working as it should.

Good luck...

I'm also at stock boost on a relatively stock engine (just bolt-ons, emissions deleated and PFC). I have less than $300 in my system and it's pretty low key, using stock WS washer tank (I can PM you a link on another form with pictures if interested). Bought everything and then procrastinated for over a year.
I guess my point is...I understand that "someday" thing, but I wouldn't delay getting it just because your still at stock boost. ;) In the summer I used to see spikes of 10 C or more after rowing hard through the gears getting on the freeway. Now...maybe 2 or 3 C. and that's with it set to come on at 2 psi.

So, from this thread we have deducted this:
AI is a good thing,
eBay parts are shit,
spark plugs are important.

mind = blown... =\ .

Depending on whether he's talking about water temp's spiking or air temps spiking I can def support it.

The cooling that water provides to the rotor housing will def take significant stress off the other parts of your cooling system, that's a very good thing :) Your water temps will also really benefit from having good oil cooling (dual) that are properly ducted. Also make sure that (both) your radiator fans are working properly!!


As for Air Temps, once the water/meth starts spraying you can def expect to see your temps plummet. With my VMIC setup I'll normall see intake air temps of about 8-10 degrees (Celsius) above ambient air while cruising around. Once the A/I starts spraying (and you're getting on it!) that temp will drop even closer to the ambient temperature. Each pulse in normal driving will normally drop the temperature a degree or two until it's down to 2-3 degrees above ambient.

Colder air = denser air. Denser air = more oxygen. More oxygen = more power.

I'm talking about engine cooling (w/in the combustion chamber) not the intake charge...although there is some benefit there as well even with water-only and a properly sized nozzle.
Heat is going out the exhaust and is not having to be conducted out through the irons and housings and into the cooling system.

Sure - thanks

I run 14-15 psi

Then I mis-understood you earlier. You should definitely get a kit.

Just for comparison sake...

Here's a pic I pulled off google of a rotor with carbon buildup. (I'm fairly certain this is AFTER the rotors had been cleaned to a certain extent)

http://roadtochumpcar.com/wp-content...52-600x450.jpg

http://roadtochumpcar.com/wp-content...27-600x450.jpg

http://roadtochumpcar.com/wp-content...54-600x450.jpg

Not a pretty sight.... (I'm fairly certain the thread/page I pulled these from had the guy putting this rotor INTO a "new" engine!!!)



Versus what came out of mine with A/I spraying.

(obviously this is FRESH out of the engine, there is still oil pooling underneath everything. I'm willing to wager that a minute or two with a dry rag would have had 90% of the discoloration gone)

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h3...2/PC020005.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h3...2/PC020006.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h3...2/PC020009.jpg


Not to beat the horse to death... But spending a couple hundred bucks on a water injection system is WELL worth the long term effects.

Impressive. I'm really curious now to see what my plugs will look like.

Looks good, but honestly my rotors looked very close to that - after 20k+ miles - just running Amsoil Interceptor 2 stroke oil (pre-mix). They polished up in about 10 minutes and I put them right back in. Most heavily carboned rotors seem to be the result on driving the car like a grandma and/or using the stock OMP with four stroke oil (which isn't designed to burn in the combustion chamber).

With that said, I'm sure alcoholo/water helps as well...