how good do you have to be at sodering though? :lol:

I've sodered a few things before, but i've read about people trying to resoder their wiper switches and messing it up then having to buy a completely new switch. I pmed pele and some other guy in the nyc area on the 7club before but i didn't feel like spending 50-75 on a switch

It's more or less being good at removing old solder, if you can get it off quick you are good to go, if you heat the hell out of the board and the contact ring lifts you are screwed, and need a new one. Parts are 30 bucks, and 30-50 is resonable to pay someone for time, and return shipping.

Not necessarily true. For instance my clock situation was caused by the ribbon cables actually breaking out of their solder joints. They would make contact but any jolt or bump caused them to lose contact and reset the clock.

Ever since I fixed it and re-soldered everything it has kept accurate and bright time. Only dimming when I turn on the lights (as they should).

I would offer my help, but I've never soldered the switch together (though I've done plenty of soldering).

It's not too hard.. just follow the directions in the writeup. I did mine with limited experience. I found that the trick to de-soldering is A: a solder wick, not a solder sucker (worked WAY better for me) B: Apply a little flux to your wick C: Pinch the end of the wick down onto the solder with the tip of your soldering iron... wait a few seconds and PRESTO! You'll get some of the pins in a single attempt this way.

link to this write up?

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/Wiper_Switch_Fix

I'm assuming thats it, but my browser won't load it for some reason.

My buddy (Landon303...on the other forum) is rebuilding wiper switches for 30 shipped.

Site appears to be down. I can't even open the home page. Hope it is temporary.:(

I have switches.....

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=12150