Update: Installed n370 ecu and now I've got boost. I have to get the idle adjusted right and I'll be in great shape. Thanks everyone for all of the help and suggestions.

I would lean towards the ECU I would try a US spec turbo ECU.

Update: I have installed an n370 usdm ecu. woo hoo car makes boost now.

Question: On the J-Spec fuel rails does the fuel flow go in the secondaries and return out the primary rail (opposite of usdm)? The primary rail on the j-spec doesn't have the pulsation damper like the usdm rail.

the jspec ecu that you had, was it a chipped one?

yes, the N374 is chipped with a speedlab performance chip

Here is a picture of the fuel rails. Right now I have the primary going to the fuel filter and the secondary going to the return. I believe that is backwards for this j-spec setup. Could someone please clarify?

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/l...p/DSC01113.jpg

the regulator (top right with the vac hose) is at the end of the fuel loop. The return line should be coming off this and go back to the tank. If you have them hooked up wrong I doubt it run at all.. With that said, I'm pretty sure you have them hooked up correctly as long as you know which rail in the primary and which is the secondary.

Secondary on the top, Primary on the bottom. :)
Thanks for the info. I'm relieved not to have to remove the UIM again.

Car runs okay, idles sort of funny. Clutch to the floor and it'll idle right around 1000rpm let off the clutch in neutral and it drops to around 750-1200 or so and just bounces between the two. TPS is set as close to 1.0 ohm as I could get it. BAC checked at 11.9 ohm (so I assume it's good).

One more tech question. My speedo isn't working, I think it may be the speedo gear in the transmission. I have the NA one from my old set up. Will it work in the TII transmission with the rear end gears being different would it be at all accurate?

Why is your charcoal canister hooked into your turbo inlet duct? That's unnecessary, if not creating a vacuum leak.

That could be why I'm having problems getting it to idle correctly. Where should that side of the charcoal canister go, can it be vented to atmosphere?

Update: figured out I have my fuel lines routed behind my speedo cable, and it's causing it to pull off the back of the speedo. Going to reroute it back behind them and speedo problem will be fixed.

It's supposed to treat the fumes from the gas tank, and then I think it normally vents to the atmosphere anyway, but I think they sometimes clog, get too old, or do something wrong and make your car smell. So I said screw it and pulled my charcoal canister out completely.

Mystery Solved: Idle problem was caused by the neutral safety switch not being hooked up to the right wires. Figured that out and corrected it, then adjusted the tps and idle set screw, now I've got a 800 rpm steady idle in neutral (with & without clutch pressed). Thanks everyone for all of your help/suggestions.

PS: I tinkered with the charcoal canister and decided it was best hooked up the way that I have it. I found it actually idles better hooked up than with it being unhooked. I don't know why, but I'll leave it alone. It's not creating a vacuum leak from what I can tell.

so the way you have it set up then is the correct way? I should be finishing up my swap this week or so. I really would like your help on this!

I do not know for sure if it's the correct way or not. My car is running great, boosting at 9 psi, idling at 800 rpm, and holds 18 psi of vaccum at idle. This vaccum diagram is how I currently have my vaccum and emissions stuff ran. Hard to tell from the diagram but I have the one way check valve on the charcoal canister so it can only pull the fumes into the intake hose, rather than blowing air into the charcoal canister. If I can be of any help just let me know.



http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/l...cCurrent-1.png