I did it once after I saw peejays write up on his pport it worked great, it was in a 12a I had in an 85, the engine is still running as far as I know several thousand miles later and in the hands of another owner

Is there a site or a place that offers them so I can do some research?
Thanks:icon_tup:

Not off hand but google is your friend. But here's something to consider: do a cost benefit analysis for the seals. Dollar for dollar stock will come out on top. For instance you will need the relief measurements and need to know the compression numbers to ensure positive sealing.

When I was looking up these seals it was for a bomb (solid rocket propellant testing apparatus, not ordinance). The good was that they could withstand extreme pressures, temperatures, and enviroments. Unfortunately they also need a certain amount of pressure/force for them to create a seal. What you need to know for any specific metal seal is that force/pressure. If it's too large then you will deform and ruin an aluminum housing.

I'm honestly surprised no one has made an aluminum seal. You can get al that's not super tough, anneal it, and install. Torque it down to spec and you have a metal seal that won't damage the housing.

I think you're right about ruining a housing Tyler.
I'm willing to bet the reason noone has really dealt with the solid off the self seals is that they're not continuous. There's going to be a back where one end begins/ends. To me that's a big risk for a leak. The right way to do it would be to make a casting based on a housing, and form a piece. But that's me. Frankly I don't think any thing more than stock is really needed in this case, unless there's extreme forces, or someone want to experiment, or someone is really cheap ;)

You could by-pass discontinuous seals by just cutting them out of a solid sheet, then sanding and grinding to specific tolerance. You'd still have to finish the seal even if casting it. But I don't think you could cast a seal--too small, and the metal too viscus.

Introducing ANOTHER metal into the whole environment means more the possibility of creating a "battery".
All you need is an electrolyte (wow, most coolants will do!) that allows the media to run an electrical current.
Add a corrosive factor (wow, combustion by-products can do that!), and that should eliminate almost any of the softer and more reactive metals LIKE COPPER AND ALUMINUM.
It's bad enough that you have (cast) steel / iron in there + the aluminum / stainless steel rotor housing - they are already eating themselves from the galvanic corrosion.
Using this kind of system compromises long term reliability.

Looks like you haven't done your homework - you sure you're in college? - Mazda already experimented with copper support seals to the original water jacket o-rings way back.

THEY ABANDONED IT CAUSE IT WAS NOT NECESSARY AND A WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY.

So, we're down to basically a RACE ONLY set-up.
KSP Engineering has put down 700+ hp levels on soft-type seals.
NO USE OF ANY COPPER OR METAL SEALS.

why don't you ask the pro racers that have been doing this reliably for years now...
Abel Ibarra comes to mine.
Almost any of the PR guys can help you here.


-Ted

I love this forum.

http://suchabastard.files.wordpress....y-springer.jpg

Oh... Where is it...

http://420.thrashbarg.net/i_like_whe...epic_storm.jpg

and here I liked this forum because everyone used to stay on topic and not just exchange insults :squint:

Give it some time--I'm sure it will get cleaned up mod style.

haha funny shit

^^^well 18 gauge plastic covered speaker wire is in one of my 12a's and working great, well last time i talked to the guy i sold it to it was and that was at least 5000 miles on it

Interesting...
I know a guy who used the right size cotton string / cord and just cover it with RTV...


-Ted

that seems kinda hella risky