That.... pumps are working harder, they're just putting less out.... and sucking more amps, which leads to heat, which leads to resistance, which leads to voltage drops, which leads to decreases fuel flow, which when coupled with ECU's that don't log FPSI or have a way to comp for it leads to engines that like to shat themselves......

Value hearing, you do not.... Hate those fucking pumps.... hate the FuelLAbs even more for that reason.... quite my ass....

FWIW I made 540 RWHP w/a single Aeromotive stealth intank fuel pump on a BW running 24psi....

I would be surprised if you touched 400 with that turbo @ 13psi.... I'm thinking 380-390 is more like it....

That makes sense.

I've been running my guestimates on about 14psi, but even so I'd be super stoked with 380-390 at 13psi. It's gunna be more than I'd be able to (legally) use on the local roads anyway :icon_tup:

That's because local roads are parking lots..... Foot power might be faster most days.

Seriously... lol


Aaaannndddd.... It looks like I've got a new shopping list. Fixing my exhaust this time...

The reason why I say that is because the v-band flange used to make my exhaust doesn't match up that well with the flange on my turbo, the result is that I have a bit of an exhaust leak where the turbo meets the downpipe.

We'll remedy that leak and fix the lack of flex couplers in my DP/WG pipe all at once. I'll also switch from the crappy slip-joint that PFS used to connect my DP to my MP, replacing that with another v-band connection.

Shopping list being:

1x Vibrant Flexible Exhaust Couplings (4"x8") w/ Interlock Liner - $100.55
1x Vibrant Flexible Exhaust Couplings (1.75"x4") w/ Interlock Liner - $24.90
1x Vibrant V-Band Flange/Clamp Assembly - Stainless Steel Flanges (4") - $91.30
1x Precision Turbo and Engine V-Band Turbine Discharge Flange for PTE V-Band inlet/outlet Turbine Housings - $49.99
1x Precision V-Band Clamp - 3.00" - $24.99

We'll need to wait until I get a bit more funding before addressing these little toys.. Brian, please let me know if I'm missing something

Aside from none of the links working :rofl:

One of these in a 1.75"
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...l-Bends-304-SS
get a foot of this
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...ory/1-75-1-3-4
One of these - discharge obviously
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...langes-304L-SS
and one of these - discharge again
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...stegate-Clamps
and money.... lots of money for ME!!

Tha fuck... that's strange... the first two pasted in wrong... ah-well, got them sorted.


So we're completely redoing the WG (re)routing? cool beans, I thought we'd just be adding a flex coupler to what Ray did. Works for me though, as I'm sure it's gunna be much better than the hal-assed job the last guy made..


It fucking kills me... I paid WAY too much to get the exhaust made, only to have him cut corners so now I've got to go back and get most of it redone :(

Pie cuts and cheating radii is not an acceptable way to build an exhaust.

One of these days I'm gunna learn to weld... It'd be so nice if I could do/fix this shit at home...

So the new(to me) fuel pump came in last night. I just swapped it in this afternoon. It took me about an hour start to finish, to include some time spent messing around. It was surprisingly straight forward. I made sure that the pump was completely full of fuel before re-installing it, so I shouldn't have issues with this one (hopefully).

I'll have to flow test it later as I don't currently have a -6 male/male connector.

Your going to flow test it before it's fully tuned right? I hope? That's a lot of money in that build to chance it to a used pump. My 2 cents anyways (coming from a person who has blown a couple engines because of a pump and wiring)

Absolutely gunna flow test it first! I just need to get the -6 male/male connector than I'll be in business.

So I finally got around to flow testing the fuel pump on Thursday night. Due to the fact that we ran AN lines it was actually very easy for me to extend the return line far enough to reach into the 5gal fuel can with no issues. I just picked up a male/male -6 connector and attached an extra length of hose :hurray:

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps67371596.jpg

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...psc7a3175b.jpg



However... I ran into two problems. One is a simple fix, the other will require a little bit more effort.

The first problem was that I totally retarded out and forgot to have another (running) car connected to mine by way of jumper cables. Without that 14v power feed from the running car my pump took about 6 minutes to fill the 5 gallons. Easy fix is that I'll just push my car out of the garage and do it again with a car attached.

Here's the other problem I found... While doing the test I found a distinct bulge in the short length of rubber fuel hose on the feeding side.

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps2ddad442.jpg

THAT is not good. I'm debating on whether I should replace that with fresh rubber hose (we're holding off on connecting the AN line directly until we make and install the swirl pot) or use a very small but of nylon braided -6 hose that I have left over. The internal diameter of the -6 is about identical to the outer diameter of the stock lines, so I'm thinking it *should* seal tight with a worm clamp...

I'm def open to suggestions from the pro's on that though ^_^

I would replace it. You can get a rubber fuel hose from advance for pretty cheap. Cut it bring it with you get the length you need and some band clamps and call it a day.

Done and done =) I neglected to take some "after" pictures because I was too intent on going straight to flow testing the fuel pump, then taking the car for a drive to make sure everything was good =)

I put the new length of 5/16" fuel hose in (I got rid of the 6" double loop and just went with a straight shot from the fuel pump to the feed line) then fired the pump up and checked for leaks. Tightened up the clamps a bit more after spotting a leak and proceeded with the 43.5psi flow test. I was kinda worried that when I cranked the FPR up to 70psi (it wouldn't push higher than 70psi by the adjuster on top of the FPR) but the fuel line held fine and was leak free =)

As for the fuel flow...

At 43.5psi it took 5:42.5 to fill 5 gallons.
at 70psi it took 6:31.5 to fill the 5 gallons.

And my handy-dandy garage note pad..

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps49b120a9.jpg

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but to find the GPH would I divide the time by 5, then multiply by 60? It's been over a decade since I needed to use math for daily questions/problems (I would ask Bianca, but she's worse than Chris at Math..)

Not possible. Bianca can actually count her fingers AND toes. :)