is highway driving out of the question

Not at all. Laura actually rec's that you keep the rev's under 3500 for the first hour or so. I call it 100 miles. The problem with highway driving is you need to be conscience about varying the rev's. I'll drop a gear or two and accelerate, decel, accel, decel, get off the highway and drive a few backroads for a little bit, get back on the highway etc etc etc. I've actually got 100 miles of that to do tonight and then again on Thurs probm but I'm planning on having 1000 miles logged before I hit the dyno this time and alot of little things worked out, tip-in being the biggest pain in my ass right now.

Tip-in is my problem too! I fucking hate driveability issues

noob moment... tip in?

Accel enrichment, when you're cruising around at perfect Lambda and you hit the gas the in-rush of air requires more fuel than the map allows for. The ECU injects extra fuel and then backs it out over time. The Motec has
Accel Clamp - the max amount of addition fuel
Accel Clamp Comp - comp's the max amount based on a 3D table
Accel Decay - how fast it pulls the additional fuel out of the enrichment
Accel Enrichment Sensitivity - how much at a certain load vs rpm that it injects.
On top of that there is the Accel threshold - at which point (usually unit change/sec) does the ECU recognize that you are trying to accelerate and also various filters. I spent ALOT of time tonight and got the low rpm and VERY light tip ins pretty damn good. But what I ended up fucking up was the mash the gas tip in. Now she'll hit .65 L and buck like crazy. I ended up putting to much sensitivity in which worked for the higher throttle but did nothing for the light tips so I changed the threshold and got the lights great but the hard hits go too pig rich becuase now it's reacting much faster..... ah the joys. God bless the Motec software and the datalogging..... that shit is SICK

DAMN!! I hate v-band clamps...my fucking clamp is loose and now I can not for the life of me get the fucker bck on without it leaking!!

Gonna try my old one since I just broke my new on with a 1/2 inch ratchet. :)


..........EDIT that. I just found a hairline crack on the inside diameter of the DP where to flange angles up to mate againt the turbo. Looks like there is enough room to have someone weld it without intruding on the flanges mating surfaces.

always something......

Nice find. Isn't it ALWAYS something? I think I'm going to buy an Insight...................................... Not enough torque to EVER have a problem with ANYTHING

:rofl:

we dont even have enough torque...lol lol lol

Check it out......I LOVE the color... the bastard!:);) PP Ports must be fun. MAN!, that has got to be Electron Blue! I am gonna start telling people at work that I Slat Flat'ed my FC.

http://speedhunters.com/archive/2009...le-rocket.aspx

um... i think that guy stole your car sean. might wanna go double check the garage.

update:

So I have 577 miles on the motor and have cured my dreaded idle woes. When I was assembling the motor I remembered to line up the main pulley with the 5*atdc mark and stab my CAS with the dot aligned to the gear.

Well since start up I have had a good idle but it was very rich 11.1:1 AFR and was a bit lumpy and sparatic. So after messing with some negative lag to day and just getting frustrated I remebered I never put a timing light on the motor(it was stabbed correctly, top off the CAS and thumb on the internal wheel). Well once I got my idle down to 750rpm my timing was at a whopping 10-12*btdc.:cuss:

So I pulled the CAS after I lined the pully back up at 5*atdc and the front cover pin. re-stabbed the CAS and started her up. smooth as butter and is at a perfect 5*atdc @ 750rpm. I raised the idle back up to 950rpm and my idle AFR went to 12.4:1

Much happier and glad I didn't go negative lag. re-tuning the map would have blowed and been a major waste of time last year.



Now as for my comp test it was shaky. I used a piston tester that is brand new from my craftsman professional series kit.

BOTH front and rear rotors had 3 DEAD EVEN pulses at 50 psi each

When I got to the accumulative PSI reading on each rotor I was worried at first...

Front was 95 psi
Rear was 88/90 psi

I know that I want 115+ and after talking to some pro's I need to do this @ 1500/2000 miles. :) I feel like an idiot BUT for some reason I figured compression would be damn near close to high numbers at 577 miles(some have stated it would). I will wait till then(maybe do another at 1000 miles for shits and giggles).


On another note I recieved the "Street Rotary" book in the mail today and am very impressed. Much more informative then the "Rotary Performance" novel that came out some time ago.

One thing that confuses me is on the pre-mix section where the book states that "most experts recommend 1 ounce of pre-mix oil to 1 gallon". Meanwhile my Idemitsu pre-mix bottle states that I use 1/2 ounce per 1 gallon.

I am not running my OMP and would like to hear some input on this. Should I stick with 1/2 ounce until my breakin is done THEN go to 1 ounce per gallon?

***side note: Racing Beat reccomends 4 ounces per gallon on 500HP+ rotaries:o11::o11:

NEXT ON THE TO DO list is to make some ducting to my oil cooler. My oil temps when cruising around town stabilize at 182* F. I dont like that temp BUT am unsure if that is excessivley high( I would perfer 160* F). I should point out that when I ran synthetic the temps went to about 175* F constant.

sean i think for the comp text that since youre using a piston comp tester that there are some pieces in there that need to come out to get a proper reading on a rotary. the other kyle and i were talkin about it. just a quick thought. :)

Sean, nice catch on the timing. How is it that you have 577 miles and I have 2200? And in that time I pulled and half rebuilt a motor? You're slacking my friend :rofl:

For the comp - I made 100-110 psi with those housings before the Goodyear fiasco. That day she made 90-100. After a trip to DGRR and back the comp climbed back to 113. I think she needs more miles, especially with used housings.

Pre-mix - I would listen to Idemitsu, actually I sorta am. I've spoken to a bunch of people who have followed thier rec's and have had nothing but great results. Personally, I'm running ~1/4oz per gal (502:1) in the tank and then the OMP injecting the same Idemitsu. It comes out to be ~1/2oz+ per gallon (256- :1) especially when I'm hard on it. Running @ 1 oz/gal (128:1) is a good thing to do if you're pretty spirited and not using the greatest pre-mix. 4oz/gal (32:1) is just silly IMHO. Marine O/B's run all day long variably between 50:1 and 200:1. I dare say that the loads that are placed on the main bearings, rod pins, and piston rings etc etc etc are FAR more than what an apex/side/corner seal will ever see. Personally if I wasn't using my setup, I would be @ Idemitsu's rec @ 256:1.

Also, think about how much sump oil that a rotary burns. These are pretty crude numbers but hear me out. A quart every 3000 miles is "normal," so lets just say that you're burning a qt every 1,000 miles. Ok, so you're using 32 oz of oil every 1000 miles. How much gas are you using? How about 15mpg? Ok, so in 1000 miles you're burning 66.67 gallons of gas. 66.67 gals = 8533 ozs. So that equates to 266:1 of SUMP oil on "average"

The funny thing is I didn't even plan that out by working numbers backwards.

If anything Sean, I would run 128:1 during the breakin. After breakin's and dyno's are done with, I would reduce it to 256:1 or thier rec'd 1/2 oz/gal.

"If anything Sean, I would run 128:1 during the breakin. After breakin's and dyno's are done with, I would reduce it to 256:1 or thier rec'd 1/2 oz/gal"

Wouldn't I want less pre-mix on break in for a better "dig in". More lube = less friction so less wear on parts BUT I want wear right now correct?

2200!! I hate you again Brian:cuss: I am gonna start hitting the highway for short 40 mile trips to a town called Cascade. Great falls is 56,000 people and from one end of town to the other is about 10 miles man. 577 in maybe 9 day total drive time is pretty good for MT. :)

You know of some baseline oil temp ranges by chance bro?

re-post