GOOD TO HEAR! I should be starting mine by next week. I have been actually driving mine around just with no boost. Weather has been so nice lately and I have been saying fuck it. It felt good just to joy ride

Yes, Yes it does. Shit, I auto-x'ed mine the day after the comp test and accidentally hit the rev limit once or twice. I'm pysched though. After talking with Dave I decided to use the 13B-RE housings that came with the second motor. I have been half-assedly trying to sell them for some time now. I spoke with Dave about them and he suggested using them. He has seen no appreciable difference on the dyno using them vs the TII/REW housings. For those of you who don't know, the ports on the Cosmo motor dive downward after the port opening to meet up with the restrictive exhaust sleeves. Upon seeing this, I opted to buy a set of good condition S5 N/A housings and port those.

Dave was telling me the first set he did when he re-used the Cosmo housings, he welded the area up and then ground it down to meet with the sleeves. The next next identical motor he built he just put the sleeves in. Dyno says no difference. Sooooooo, this motor should be slightly stronger than the last becuase the housings are in better shape. They are near mint.

The rest of the parts that I need to rebuild the shortblock should be here Monday. Everything has been cleaned. Left to do is port/paint the new housings, clearance all the side seals, and pull the turbine cartridges to see if there was any damage to the turbine blades when the chunk of side seal passed through it. I'm hoping that the piece or pieces were so small that no damage was done. If there was damage I'll have to buy new cartridges. I was hoping to get the efini twins, but I just don't have the patience @ this point. I would have to wait a few weeks while the snails and the center piece were out getting ceramic coated. Instead what I think I'll do is buy the twins in a few months and tear them apart. Get a second mani as well and send everything to David Garfinkle for some porting. Then have the pieces shipped to my ceramic coater, then back to me so I can have them for DGRR '10. Along with a few other additions. New undercoating, new paint, new hood, extra gear "in the tranny" :suspect:

So anywho, still hoping to make LimeRock. Really hoping now becuase I just paid for my Work VSXX's with some RA1 rubber that should arrive in a week..... should be a fucking BLAST. I need to get some sort of in-car camera for that.....

So stay tuned. More pics and dyno numbers to come.

WTF ARE YOU WAITING FOR THEN?!?:rofl:

Engine rebuild, dyno, getting my camera back from a fellow forum member........ I may just show up at her house unexpectedly to collect. Be good breakin mileage. She's ~3 hrs away. I suspect I'll have one in time.

Good to hear about your engine getting paid for. Next time i have legal issues, you'll be getting a pm.

Jshiz, the key is explicitly using "scumfuck spermburping" with the ins co.

So that's what I've been doing wrong. I guess "Anal Turd buckets" wasn't explic enough

:rofl: I was lucky in my situation because everything was so miticulously documented. not only by me but by the state of CT. CT video tapes all of thier emmisions tests. So, at the hieght of my being jerked off, to the point where the blisters turned to bleeding sores I told them, "listen you scumfuck spermburpers. Either this gets settled so that I am indemnified, or I am calling a lawyer, getting that tape, all my pictures, all my documentation and I'll see you in court where I will go after the full amount to have a shop repair the damage as well as attourneys fees, rental car, etc etc etc."

That's when things started happening rather quickly. So, if you're ever in a situation like that, document everything you can. The cameraphone is such an awesome invention. I can record video and voice notes on my crackberry as well. Basically don't go for more than you think you're entitled to, stand your ground, and document EVERYTHING. Send emails instead of voicemails, "Spermburper, this is the THIRD time I have sent you what you asked for. See e-mails dated, blah blah and yada yada..... etc etc etc.

BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!

Maybe. So pre-overheat I had ~30-35psi of oil on a hot idle. Post Overheat I had ~15+ish. Dave said check the main bearings. Rear main is out of spec about a thou and a half. So Renni rear gear is being ordered. 3 window etc etc etc. Also noticed tonight some gawd awefully slight scoring on the e-shaft. So it looks like I'll be ordering a renni e-shaft as well. FrankenWankel gets more Frankened?

Should give ever so slightly better acceleration from the lower rotating mass and the 3 window rear just gives peace of mind spinning to 7800+

Hrm, better housings, tighter tolerances on the side seals, lighter e-shaft, should beat 313 on wastegate :reddevil:

Sounds like fun! I think I just fixed my smoking problem and rather simply too. lol. $6 worth of pipe. It's a tight fit, but it makes for a much nicer transition from the turbo to the oil pan.

I would however like to see an in detail write up from you on how you spec your engines and build them; work area, seal grinding, new parts replaced, etc. I still have a lot to learn in that respect and I still need to track down vac leaks. I suck at it. I know I have one and I'm pretty confident I know where it's coming from, but I can never find it with the propane method. I think I'm going to make a smoke machine one of these days.

Document your engine build!

OK, I don't think there is really anything special about the way I go about it.

I like to replace all the seals and springs but if I don't, I spec them damn carefully. The last engine I built I actually spent more time playing musical seals and grinding very little off a few here and there than I spent clearancing all 12 new seals for this engine.

A good friend has a sharpening stone that is 220 on one side and 1000 on the other. So what I do is use the 220 side until the seal just barely fits in place, then I move over to the 1000 and grind until it clears the .05mm. If I can get the .08mm in there I move it around to a few different sides until it fits right. Had to do this twice on this motor. If the seal is free but the .05mm won't fit, there is the potential that you are at .049mm and a few strokes will put you out of range. You can always take more off but you can't put it back on so I always count my strokes and check every 7.

The cutting fluid I use is a dream. Cuts though the seals like nothing. So friken fast. Oh, I also buy 14 seals instead of 12. I broke one and the other is a backup now. So nect time I only need 13. but 13 is bad joo joo so I'll still get 14.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1244706453

For anyone wondering about the 13B-RE housings. They are a PITA! The exhaust sleeves don't line up like the normal housings do, and there is an insert for the egr deal so it can't be tapped. I have a few shots of the port, the TII/REW sleeve, and the plug that I had to make. I was FURIOUS at this little bitch. I took some 3/8" plate that I had laying around and hand fit it to .550" round and then pounded it into the port. HOURS wasted with this. Why did I do this you ask? Well, the sleeve seems like it would allow a decent amount of exhaust gas to get out and up into the LIM heating it. Bad scenario. So now it's blocked off.

As for the ports, I spoke with Dave about these housings. He has seen no appreciable difference with the sleeves mis-alinged. I know, doesn't make sense, but his dyno doesn't lie. I was originally going to hock these housings and buy new REW housings. Now I'll save those gems for the next engine which will be even more beasty.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1244706453

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1244706453

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1244706453

So, after the rotors are set and all the seals are in place, Apex seals and assit pieces glued, springs layed out, and everything has been cleaned and recleaned, and recleaned I start like this.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1244706453

Then I spend a good deal of time putting hylomar on the housings. Being careful to make sure that it stays on the water side of the compression seal. Don't want that nastiness getting into the combustion chamber. Then one iron @ a time I put the vaseline on for the o-rings. I have a bunch of syringes that I use for epoxy work that make keeping the vaseline pretty neat.

So starting with the front plate on the stand the vaseline and o-ring's go in. Then the dowel pins lubbed with some oil. Then I squirt some oil on the main bearing, and where the side seals and oil control rings would rotate. I use normal mineral oil for this - in the old squirter. Then I saturate the housings with 2-stroke oil smearing it everywhere, in the new red plastic one. I do my cleaning with carb clean, so that takes all the oil out of the pores that are supposed to retain the oil. Then the rotor goes in, e-shaft and center plate. Pretty normal I think

So here we are with the center plate (and the new RX8 eshaft) but no o-rings. I like to do them one surface at a time. What if right? Don't need those bastards swelling so.........

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1244706952

Put them on along with the dowels. The dowels are there for alignment. Why put a housing on and have to move it? I've moved o-rings out of place before trying to align a housing. now I just put the dowels in first.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1244706952

Apply liberal amounts of oil

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1244706952

Insert rotor...... With the last engine, on the last corner seal before the thing was done it was being stubborn. It finnaly moved and jumped out of it's hole and hopped into a collant passage :banghead: It took me about 15 minutes to fish it out with a magnet wrapped in electrical tape becuase it kept pulling towards the irons while I was trying to get it down to the front plate. THen it wouldn't pass through the housing so I had to shave the tape. It was an infuriating nightmare. I was seeing red. Anyway, now when I take the corner seals out I use a magnet to pull them out so something like that can't happen again.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1244706952

And then the plate and the tension bolts. Pretty normal or so I think. Tomorrow, or later today actually, I'll set the end float and start putting the periperals on. Still planning on being at KDR on the 17th for a dyno and then hitting Limerock the next day.

I bought a set of Work VSXX's of a friend who is parting his car. They are 17x8 & 17x9 wrapped in 235/40 & 255/40 RA1's. I got them for a deal that I couldn't pass up. I can't wait to so some damage to them. They should be here today... WOOT!

did you get the wheels from someone in ohio? looking good brian!

Well then there should have been pics by now... not a good look TTT......:icon_no2:







:001_005:

Thanks Adam. Yes I did. They should've arrived today but instead when I got home there was a note saying we tried to deliver, but we're too fucking lazy to carry 200lbs of wheels/tires from our truck so instead we're going to leave you a note. The bastards never even knocked. I have two big guard dogs and they didn't make a fricken PEEP all day. Lazy asses. So I'll be signing that signature release and there will be pics tomorrow :)