Yeah, the universal ones because my exhaust is completely custom. By "quiet enough" I mean quiet enough so I don't get black flagged. Something like <=100 dB or so.

Yep, I have the 4-piston front calipers with slotted rotors in the back. The rear calipers do have two bleeder screws but I thought the bottom one was only used if the caliper was dry, which mine never were. I thought about bleeding through the lower screw anyway but I couldn't see a way to do it without unbolting the caliper from the hub. Also, by "pressure bleeding" I mean I am using the Motive tool. The MC resevoir adaptor is a little annoying but otherwise it's a nice tool to have.

i ran both mufflers your talking about. Car was loud as shit on a naturally aspirated car with a header.

That's what I was afraid of. Are the 12A's and 13B's on the FB's just that much quieter or are the mufflers for those systems different from the universal ones? They seem to get away with a single pre-silncer/muffler combination. I'm really trying to avoid dual outlet exhaust due to weight and I only have room for two supressors in the single-outlet configuration.

the issue is there are no bafflees. Its just a giant straight through thing with packing.

When we had the roadrace car, we had a not quite right pedal for two years. Someone suggested bleeding through the bottom bleeder and it solved the pedal issue.

So do their direct-replacement mufflers and pre-silencers have baffles? Has anyone run something with a baffle that hasn't robbed power? A while back I was talking to the Burns' Stainless guys and they seemed to think two of their mufflers in-line would be sufficient. Though from what I've read online that seems unrealistic.

How'd you access that bleeder screw? I assume you removed it from the hub. I'll have to try that when I get closer to having the car running.

It's not so bad to do mounted on the car. Might need a shorty wrench and small hands. I tend to bleed both when I am feeling frisky. I can take pictures later today of a caliper I have removed to give you an idea.

I recall talking to a friend about mufflers and exhaust tuning. In his 2 stroke motorcycle racing days, they managed to get their bike to be dead quiet. To the point where you just heard resonance from the air cooling fins on the block. And with no power loss. Its all about how its done I suppose.

Plus, if its so loud you don't want to go WOT, then you in effect DO have powerloss.

Leaving the caliper in place it appears to require a deep-well socket, which would prevent me from attaching a hose to the bleeder screw and make a mess in general. I assume you can bleed these off the hub pretty easily.

No doubt with a lot of iteration. I'm certain there's a perfect combination of sound suppression and power out there. Another idea concocted was to run the exhaust to a muffler on one side of the car and then have it loop around and run to the other side of the car where it goes through another muffler.

The car being loud won't bother me. I just know some tracks have sound intensity requirements as low as 92 dB.

I've been running dual 32" straight thru mufflers in front of dual spin techs (about like a straight thru sound wise) on a NA 13B. They are too loud for what you're looking for. About 91db idle to 118db peak at WOT external measurement.

I plan to try the Rocky Mountain Performance Quiet Riot exhaust baffles when I get it back on the road. Hopefully it helps as it is louder than I want as well.

http://ts4.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.45922...96507&pid=15.1

I don't remember. Probably a box end wrench. On any bleed screw you need a hose draining into a clear bottle that has brake fluid already in it. The end of the hose needs to be submerged in the fluid in the bottle. This way, when bubbles come out, you see them rise through the fluid in the bottle. Pump until you see no bubbles. You also need to start at the caliper furthest from the mc and work to the closest. Stock prop valves can also cause issues with getting all the air out if the back half of the system.

That's basically exactly how I bled the system (minus the lower bleed screw on the rear calipers). I was wondering if the proportioning valve could be causing issues. Is there any trick to bleeding that? When I hooked up the MC and applied pressure I broke all the proportioning connections until only fluid came out. Regarding the rear caliper lower bleed screw I guess I'll have to take another look. I didn't think I could fix a box wrench down there.

The second (heavy) coat of resin is on so now it's sanding time. The plan is to work on that tomorrow.

Otherwise, I'm having impure thoughts about ditching the RX-7 chassis and dumping everything into a NA Miata. Lighter chassis and better suspension and all.

I have a real nice roller NA I might part with.

Haha, very tempting! Details?

Spent a lot of time on the shroud this weekend. Applied the second layer of resin Thursday night:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z...727_111427.jpg

Spent most of the day Saturday sanding:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...727_141550.jpg

Applied filler and sanded Saturday night and Sunday morning:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a...728_192945.jpg

Sprayed primer last night:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1...728_201517.jpg

The plan is to sand again and apply several layers of high-gloss clear. Once that's done I'll apply several layers of mold-release wax and then I can lay the fiberglass. The mold isn't perfect but I'm operating under the assumption the fiberglass and resin of the final product won't take every small imperfection into form.