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So... This is one of the last updates to the thread (there might be one more concerning wiring up the switches and what not, and lessons learned). Enjoy and feel free to ask any questions :)
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1301204333 http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...1&d=1301204333 |
Very nice
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Awsome piece man.
Im doing a stock cluster with aftermarket guages for now, I have been throwing around idea for the racepack in the futher, here what I have now. I will definatly be making something similar someday. Thanks for sharing, James |
just out of curiosity how many people would like a dash similar to this one where you assemble and wrap it yourself? This means you'd get the main plate with the gauge hole, buttons holes, and indicator holes (that includes the brights) predrilled, as well as the support plate and s-bracket predrilled for pop-rivits.
I ask because if enough people are interested I'll go get a quote for a limited production run and have the pieces waterjetted. Price would be Dependant upon the quote. This means if it costs $150 for 10 units than I'll probably charge around $18+shipping. If it's more; for instance $500 for 10 units than I'll probably charge around $60+shipping. |
I don't imagine it would cost much more than $150 to get that design waterjetted, if that much. The guy I go to out here did a LIM spacer for me (LIM to block) and he charged $120 and said it would be MUCH cheaper for each one after. Not sure what prices would be with your guy though.
I like the end result btw. I'm not sure about the puffyness lol, but it looks good none-the-less. |
did you just use adhesive to keep the excess vinyl stuck to the back of the panel?
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Quote:
Puffiness isn't as bad as it looks in the pictures. It's basically headliner foam which is less than a 1/4 inch thick. Quote:
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ok just thought id double check. I wasnt sure if maybe there was a different way you decided to attach it since you were mounting it to alum. i have some nice 3M adhesive that should do the trick.
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id purchase one but would like it blank, Id like to drill my guage and button holes to take advantage of the space and put more guages in it
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I could do that. Just only put in the digi-dash location, mounting screw locations, and pop-rivet holes. Would that work out better for everyone?
Running tally of those interested thus far: 2 |
So I have one quote getting sent out to me for different production runs. I have removed the indicator holes, the button holes, and the gauge hole from this quote. I've also increased the overall width of the IQ3/digital dash hole on the front plate by 1/16 of an inch on each side to aid in those who desire to wrap the dash. Depending on the quote I get back from them I'll have a better idea of what everything will cost to make happen.
When that quote gets back to me I'll put in for a quote from the rfq website and see who can get the better deal. |
sounds good. I like the idea of just having the racepack hole only plus mounting points etc... what are the buttons for in yours?
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The two buttons closest to the dash are for the dash itself (change pages, change options, etc). The button on the far right is for the Wideband calibration and status.
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did those buttons come with the racepack or is that something you rigged up?>
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I rigged 'em up. You can buy any momentary switch you want. I just chose those ones since it's going to be my daily and I have to look at 'em day in and day out. :lol:
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