Sometimes you just have to know when to start over... [Archive]

Nismo

11-18-2009, 09:31 PM

Well here is my build thread for my new car. The Jap ratrod has been sent to scrap and should be fridges in no time at all. The goal for this car is to look stockish (other than a Vmount hood), quiet, and very fast.

To build any worth while car, you have to start with a good body, and I found just that on KIJIJI, he was asking $3500 to start, but after some very good negotiating with a nice example of a FC present; Buggy and I drove this thing away for $1200. It's a stock 1986 GXL, with only 117855KM's on it, it was in a minor fender bender at some point in it's life because the bumper, and driver side fender were replaced, now it just has a minor fitment issue with the bumper, I'm sure that can be fixed relatively easy by Classicauto when it get sent there sometime next year.

Here is what the car currently looks like:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5566.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5567.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5569.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5571.jpg
Minor misalignment from fender bender:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5572.jpg
No rust in the quarters:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5574.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5576.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5580.jpg
Looks like someone pried the lock:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5575.jpg
Sunroof with minor rust like every FC:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5577.jpg
I guess it got stuck or pushed a lot, nice palm dents:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5579.jpg
Clean interior:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5582.jpg

Yay!!!:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5583.jpg
Engine Bay:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5587.jpg

Now for the drivetrain, the stock N/A drive line is getting swapped out for TII setup, (Buggy might part it out but you would have to ask him because he is the owner of the N/A stuff) it's going to be powered by a 13B RE with a Haltech E6X, and some sort of Garrett turbo. I am hoping for 375-400 wheel horsepower at 12-15psi.

Here pics of the Engine:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5557.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5560.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/IMG_5564.jpg

I will update this as work progresses.

Whizbang

11-18-2009, 09:39 PM

that is actually quite a clean chassis you found yourself.

Nismo

11-18-2009, 09:44 PM

that is actually quite a clean chassis you found yourself.

Yes, yes it is thank you, only has like 75k miles, and no rust which is awesome for a Canadian car.

Whizbang

11-18-2009, 09:46 PM

didnt even notice it was canadian. I had a turbo II that was originally of Canadian descent. I love the dash vent feature the US models never got.

Nismo

11-18-2009, 09:48 PM

didnt even notice it was canadian. I had a turbo II that was originally of Canadian descent. I love the dash vent feature the US models never got.

What one is that? The one you flip up and blows fresh air?

Whizbang

11-18-2009, 09:51 PM

yea, toggles on the bottom side of the dash for outside air. pretty much destroys your face on the freeway with wind. was great without a/c

TitaniumTT

11-19-2009, 01:57 AM

Nice find Kevin!

Go with a Motec, you won't regret it.

Is that the same RE that you've had for years? What kind of porting are you planning?

Nismo

11-19-2009, 05:35 AM

Nice find Kevin!

Go with a Motec, you won't regret it.

Is that the same RE that you've had for years? What kind of porting are you planning?

Hey Brian,

I wish I could go Motec, but I already have the Haltech, maybe someday when I need to upgrade!!

Yup, very same engine I paid $300 for years ago, not planning on porting at all, the turbo has a smallish hot side so I don't need it, and I like the idea of longevity. I never port my engines, I'll just run more boost to make more power. :driving:

WE3RX7

11-19-2009, 04:48 PM

TitaniumTT

11-19-2009, 05:35 PM

Hey Brian,

I wish I could go Motec, but I already have the Haltech, maybe someday when I need to upgrade!!

Yup, very same engine I paid $300 for years ago, not planning on porting at all, the turbo has a smallish hot side so I don't need it, and I like the idea of longevity. I never port my engines, I'll just run more boost to make more power. :driving:

Wanna double your money? I'll give you $600 for it. I need an RE for my FD :suspect:

You need to DL the Motec V3 software........ it's fricken rediculous. I've been using it for almost a year now and I still can't remember where everything is :lol:

It's so nice though. I love it. I'll never use anything else.

Nice car... yet another RE swapped FC in the works :)

No porting on stock RE exhaust?? I'd look into that one a bit more ;) Even just opening the ports earlier would be a big advantage for that turbo (going on looks, not sure of the specs)...

At the very least I know Kevin already swapped the sleeves, I would agree though Bill, I like the exhaust porting on mine. All I did was open the port earlier, and smoot out the transitions. That and my little recirc plug. I swear that thing helps alot with AIT's.

Sigh.......... I've got this LS1 conversion that I need to finish so when the weather breaks in April I can hit the FD hard.

What's your anticipated completion date Kevin? You should get your canadian ass in gear and get it finished for DGRRX and caravan down with Joe :D

Nismo

11-19-2009, 06:31 PM

Nice car... yet another RE swapped FC in the works :)

No porting on stock RE exhaust?? I'd look into that one a bit more ;) Even just opening the ports earlier would be a big advantage for that turbo (going on looks, not sure of the specs)...

The Sleeves have been swapped, the Turbo isn't as big as it looks really, the comp wheel is only 58mm on the exducer, and the turbine is about 71mm. Comp A/R is 50, and Turbine is 70. So It's going to have instant spool as is. It made 374whp on a TII with a Massive exhaust leak at the manifold to housing gasket.

Wanna double your money? I'll give you $600 for it. I need an RE for my FD :suspect:

You need to DL the Motec V3 software........ it's fricken rediculous. I've been using it for almost a year now and I still can't remember where everything is :lol:

It's so nice though. I love it. I'll never use anything else.

At the very least I know Kevin already swapped the sleeves, I would agree though Bill, I like the exhaust porting on mine. All I did was open the port earlier, and smoot out the transitions. That and my little recirc plug. I swear that thing helps alot with AIT's.

Sigh.......... I've got this LS1 conversion that I need to finish so when the weather breaks in April I can hit the FD hard.

What's your anticipated completion date Kevin? You should get your canadian ass in gear and get it finished for DGRRX and caravan down with Joe :D

Someday I will go with a Motec, but I just bought a house, and I'm likely going to have to propose at some point so that will be one of the things i do later. No I am keeping this RE I bought it after I Built my last engine and wish I swapped it in.

What is this recirc plug?

I want to get it running for Deals gap, and tear it down next winter and let Joe get naughty with it. But we will see... I really need a Vmount hood, my piping should be no longer than 18".

TitaniumTT

11-19-2009, 07:08 PM

two threads for ya my friend -

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=8391

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=7980

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/images/rotaryrides/468/4684ab02c50225fb.jpg

I know someone opening a shop that can build you one :suspect:

Nismo

11-19-2009, 07:15 PM

TitaniumTT

11-19-2009, 07:31 PM

$1,000 ready for color. I need your old AL hood though. I built that from my stocker. It'd be better if you have your car done and at my shop so that I can duct it directly to your intercooler. Otherwise I'm guessing on the location and height of the intercooler.

Nismo

11-19-2009, 07:38 PM

Ahhh well it's easier to build my own IC and ducting off a hood I buy :( but yours is Sexy.

I'm likely going to go with a Shine hood, and go from there I have a nice core that's 12x12x3.

WE3RX7

11-19-2009, 10:43 PM

^ Good luck... I've been waiting on my shine hood for quite a while now (the panspeed model) - did you get in on the GB?

Brian - I never read that plug thread before, lol - I guess I'm not the only who seems to piss Ted off so easily!

Eager to see this build's progress though. It'd be nice to have three 13B RE FCs at DGRR in 2011 (mine wont make this year - no way in hell since its taking FOREVER on parts)...

TitaniumTT

11-19-2009, 11:12 PM

^ Good luck... I've been waiting on my shine hood for quite a while now (the panspeed model) - did you get in on the GB?

Brian - I never read that plug thread before, lol - I guess I'm not the only who seems to piss Ted off so easily!

Ted has always seemed to disagree with me, even when I can mathematically prove him wrong in certain 6-spd swap threads. The guy knows his stuff, no doubt, but... well....

Eager to see this build's progress though. It'd be nice to have three 13B RE FCs at DGRR in 2011 (mine wont make this year - no way in hell since its taking FOREVER on parts)...[/QUOTE]

BAH!! Failure Bill!!! This is why I build my own parts. No waiting on anyone but myself. Now I just need to get back into that, "I only need 4 hours of sleep a night" mode :rofl:

Ahhh well it's easier to build my own IC and ducting off a hood I buy :( but yours is Sexy.

I'm likely going to go with a Shine hood, and go from there I have a nice core that's 12x12x3.

Double BAH!!! That's blasphemy Kevin! That's saying form over function! Build the intercooler the way you want it to be with the emphasis on ducting from the front. I noticed a minimal decrease in AIT's when I finished my hood. Mainly becuase I was seeing close to ambient temps with the stock hood due to the ducting in the front. The only large benefit was heatsoak while at idle or after shut down. That and the heatsoak dissipated more quickly with the vented hood. My hood doesn't vent any engine bay heat, or any apprechiable amounts of it anyway. So in that regard, the D-Max Sexy style - which I found angular and not sexy at all - shine hood would be a better choice, but at the same time, I take the approach that one piece should do one job and do it best, hence why I made mine the way that I did.

Think about it though, we need projects and clients and thanks for the sexy comment :kiss:

WE3RX7

11-20-2009, 09:23 AM

BAH!! Failure Bill!!! This is why I build my own parts. No waiting on anyone but myself. Now I just need to get back into that, "I only need 4 hours of sleep a night" mode :rofl:

Unfortunately, I cant make a bumper or 2 way LSD :)

Its all good though - I told ya, I'll be down to have you make a nice four post strut bar when my car's mobile again :) Not a big job, but hey - its something. I'm still waiting on the shine hood as well even though they are supposedly "done" and one has already been delivered....

13bpower

11-20-2009, 01:35 PM

Man.Im diggen what you got cant wite to see the finish product.

Nismo

11-20-2009, 07:45 PM

Double BAH!!! That's blasphemy Kevin! That's saying form over function! Build the intercooler the way you want it to be with the emphasis on ducting from the front. I noticed a minimal decrease in AIT's when I finished my hood. Mainly becuase I was seeing close to ambient temps with the stock hood due to the ducting in the front. The only large benefit was heatsoak while at idle or after shut down. That and the heatsoak dissipated more quickly with the vented hood. My hood doesn't vent any engine bay heat, or any apprechiable amounts of it anyway. So in that regard, the D-Max Sexy style - which I found angular and not sexy at all - shine hood would be a better choice, but at the same time, I take the approach that one piece should do one job and do it best, hence why I made mine the way that I did.

Well, I got this IC for free, and I trying to prove that you can have 400whp cheap, and build a solid car, you can have all three FAST, RELIABLE, and CHEAP. I got my turbo and mani for 700 shipped and it's a SS manifold, likely a blitz from what I am told. I have 2 wastegates coming for 100, and traded my stock turbo and mani for a set of 1680's that will go with the 750's I already have that I also traded for my RE turbos. After paint I'm planing on coming in around $7500-8500.

Man.Im diggen what you got cant wite to see the finish product.

Thanks man, I hope to have it running in the new year depending when I get called back to work.

Nismo

11-23-2009, 07:50 PM

Anybody know if the Raceonusa hoods are any good, fitment and quality wise?

Here is what I am looking at:

http://www.raceonusa.com/mazda-rx7-86-92-fc3s-c-1052_1070/duraflex-d1-hood-mazda-rx-7-86-91

Max777

11-24-2009, 02:02 AM

In order to build any worthwhile car you have to start with a good body...

In the case of building a drift car, this statement is false,

because using a good body would be a waste... :D

As far as a V-Mount hood goes, contact Shine Auto, they make the best fitting FRP reverse vent hood for the FC. Race on usa parts are known for fitment issues.

Over all, however, if you got an N/A hood, and know how to weld, it would be easier to make your own reverse vent than to wait on shine to finish up. I didn't know they were taking so long...

TitaniumTT

11-24-2009, 04:16 AM

I'm an OCD kinda guy, and while shine does make some good looking products, the front aero bumper that I have leaves some to be desired in terms of fitment and strength in certain area's. The LS TII that we're doin had the same cracks in the same places that my used one had.

From what I understand, stay away from the Raceonusa pieces for fitment.

Stay away from that hood 'cuz it's ugly as sin ;)

Kevin, I can get you in touch with someone that has an original atihun hood.

Short of that, if yo can TIG, build your own, or let me build you one. Problem is I need your car for it to be PERFECT. But at the end of the day you and up with the most effiecient and best fitting hood you can possibly have.

Nismo

11-24-2009, 01:21 PM

http://www.atihun.com/pictures/hood/FC/3-6-2004/

This is the hood Brian??? If so, I might need to talk to this fella in the new year!

TitaniumTT

11-24-2009, 02:01 PM

That's the one. I've got his email as well as evil forum name. Lemme know. It's probably the last unmolested atihun hood in existance. Still in the shipping crate. I was trying to convince the guy, who owns a fiberglass shop, both a blessing and a curse, to use it to pull a mold. Blessing becuase he has the know how to do it, and a curse becuase it's his business and projected the need for at least 5 buyers with non-refundable deposits to make it worth his while. Good luck getting that with the bulk of the FC crowd being cheap bastards. Although there is a LOT LESS of that over here which is nice and refreshing.

Nismo

11-24-2009, 03:03 PM

Awesome if you could forward that info in a PM that would be THUPER! Where abouts is the guy? Close to a border I hope?

TitaniumTT

11-24-2009, 03:28 PM

;) He's close to the NY/CT/NJ border

Nismo

11-24-2009, 03:32 PM

;) He's close to the NY/CT/NJ border

okkkkkkkkkkkkkk and... I will drive down there and kick you in the bag!! OK once I am able to leave again, apparently when you are unemployed, and collecting unemployment you can't go to another country...

TitaniumTT

11-24-2009, 03:34 PM

:rofl: Silly canadians

Max777

11-25-2009, 05:55 PM

The aero bumper has since been discountiuned and is no longer sold by shine...

I have seen the development thread for their hood, they ordered a JDM real version, and it fit so badly, that they cut out the center vent, and put it on a stock N/A hood, later making a mold of the combined part. IMO, that was pretty dedicated as far as an aftermarket company goes. Also, no FRP aero is going to be 100% perfect, like a factory bumper...

The only thing that pisses me off, is hearing that their management has gone downhill...

TitaniumTT

11-25-2009, 06:12 PM

The aero bumper has since been discountiuned and is no longer sold by shine...

My partner just had a brand new one delivered to him last week ;)

I have seen the development thread for their hood, they ordered a JDM real version, and it fit so badly, that they cut out the center vent, and put it on a stock N/A hood, later making a mold of the combined part. IMO, that was pretty dedicated as far as an aftermarket company goes.

Yeah, but they did that becuase they couldn't get the real hood that they bought to copy to fit right. Because there was a demand for it, they produced one off of an N/A hood..... odd, I did the same thing

Also, no FRP aero is going to be 100% perfect, like a factory bumper...

No, but when you open it up and you see bubbles from where the gelcoat to matte wasn't wetted out enough, gel not releasing from the mold becuase there wasn't enough wax, and spidered cracks in pretty obvious places, it makes you wonder. There were three places on my bumper that have cracked or were cracked. I plan on reinforcing all three of those areas with rigid epoxy before I start working the bumper. The one thing that REALLY annoys me about the bumper is that if you run your hand down from where the hood meets south at the corners, it's nice and smooth. If you do this at any location between the FTP lenses, you can feel an abrupt change in angle. On a car, it looks VERY strange as all of a sudden the reflections are moving at speeds they shouldn't be, and things aren't lining up properly etc etc etc.

I still say it's the best looking replacement bumper out there though, it just needs alot more work than one would think. I dunno, Joe would be more knowledgable in his comments as I'm sure he has seen and DEALT with enough aftermarket pieces to know how they stand up against all the other companies.

WE3RX7

11-26-2009, 11:05 PM

Just a heads up - I have talk with Ken (from Shine auto) more one on one via email then through the forums so he's better at giving accurate details.

They have the Sexy style reverse vent hood available now and he HAS finished the new Panspeed hood finally. My CF one I think is the first since the others he's done have been FRP. I'll await the finished product to give my opinion - but they DO have two reverse hoods now. If you email him, you may be able to get in on the panspeed GB since we never really got the full # of people we needed.

They do still offer that bumper that Brian has as well. I'll compare the quality to my front bumper from them when it arrives - its not the same model as Brians though, so we'll see!

Long story short - you best off contacting shine before believing anything on their own forum or the evil club. Or - go w/ Brian's hookup. Our cars will all be similar enough, no need to have the same aero packages, lol :)

TitaniumTT

11-26-2009, 11:20 PM

No one can have my hood.......... :suspect: But I'll do custom hoods if people want them

Max777

11-28-2009, 03:44 AM

/\ ok, that explanation makes sense now, thank you.

TitaniumTT

11-28-2009, 09:58 AM

Which front bumper did you end up with, Bill? The RE A FC2000 replica?

WE3RX7

11-29-2009, 07:39 PM

Stay tuned for my thread updates :)

..but you're right, the REA replica. I tossed and turned about your style or the REA. The final decision came down to weight savings and how I plan to run my FMIC/FMOC and ducting... I've realized I'm building a Super Now GT replica car, lol.. didnt even mean to...

Nismo

12-02-2009, 09:53 AM

Well jsut got the best news I could have hoped for, the Union Hall just called and I'm going back to work, so first things first, buy ring, hood, and rebuild kit!! I should be coming to DDGRX :D

TitaniumTT

12-02-2009, 10:27 AM

Nismo

12-02-2009, 10:38 AM

Kevin, if you're going to DGRRX, your ass is caravaning with us! Great news on the job front man. Your list is a little messed up though. You had love for the rotary before your girl, she needs to learn her place in line! j/k..... maybe :suspect:... but seriously :smilielol5: caravan biotch!

Yeah I'll go with ya!! See Happy Wife, Happy Life, so I make her happy she can't say I only care about the car lol. I have this shit planned don't you worry!!

TitaniumTT

12-02-2009, 07:00 PM

Nismo

12-02-2009, 08:55 PM

:rofl: I used to get that shit all the time, "you spend more money on the car than on me," was something that I heard frequently till she got the ring appraised. NEVER heard it again. Good thinking though Keving. How close are you to Joe and his crew and what route are they taking this year? Last year I was hoping to hook up with them but they went inland, WAY inland. Like droped down through MI as opposed to NY.

I'm sure they will take the same route, but this will be my cars first journey like this so I'll likely stretch it's legs a bit, they typically go to Florida too but, I'm not doing that. I have to cross 3 more hours of Ontario, but well see, never been out your way, been down most of the South Eastern seaboard.

Little update, got the Konis, and suspension installed currently working on the DTSS eliminators, and the power steering depowerization, but my snapring pliers suck!!! Time to upgrade!!

Nismo

12-03-2009, 07:20 PM

Well continuing to de power the rack, how did you get the seal in the center of the tube out Brian? I'm having a hell of a time.

Nismo

12-03-2009, 10:14 PM

Well continuing to de power the rack, how did you get the seal in the center of the tube out Brian? I'm having a hell of a time.

Never mind, figured it out LOL anyways, it's half back together, just waiting til Monday to get my new boots had I have known they were over $25 each I would have tried saving them, but the one was screwed so I cut them both... OOPS.

I did notice that if the yoke plug is easily over tightened and can cause stiffness in the rack, so you have to adjust it accordingly.

TitaniumTT

12-03-2009, 10:38 PM

Never mind, figured it out LOL anyways, it's half back together, just waiting til Monday to get my new boots had I have known they were over $25 each I would have tried saving them, but the one was screwed so I cut them both... OOPS.

I did notice that if the yoke plug is easily over tightened and can cause stiffness in the rack, so you have to adjust it accordingly.

Yup, those little bastards are pricey and easily broken. I got luck with both of mine. I may be diving into the rack this winter though. I seem to have developed a slight vibe wieh going strait or turning right. Me thinks one of my 4 tie rods is worn :( Oh well.

Well continuing to de power the rack, how did you get the seal in the center of the tube out Brian? I'm having a hell of a time.

I used a proper sized socket and a few extentions and just pounded it out like a $5 whore :smash:

TitaniumTT

12-03-2009, 10:42 PM

We still got some time to figure it out. Maybe the thing to do.... not really knowing where in moose humping land you are ;) is for you to travel down south south-east and we'll meet in Harrisburg or something like that. I thought about the trip to the Keys, but at that time of year I just can't break away from work for that long, blows those moose.

I'm heading down that way next weekend to pick up the FD.... I'll scout it out :rofl:

Nismo

12-03-2009, 11:13 PM

Yup, those little bastards are pricey and easily broken. I got luck with both of mine. I may be diving into the rack this winter though. I seem to have developed a slight vibe wieh going strait or turning right. Me thinks one of my 4 tie rods is worn :( Oh well.

Yeah, to avoid shit like that I'm just going to replace them with greaseable MOOGS they are only $85 and suspension isn't a place I intend to cheap out on. Ball joints will be replaced as well.

I used a proper sized socket and a few extentions and just pounded it out like a $5 whore :smash:

I just used the rack, for removal, and reinstall, just tapped the seal all around and made sure it was seated.

We still got some time to figure it out. Maybe the thing to do.... not really knowing where in moose humping land you are ;) is for you to travel down south south-east and we'll meet in Harrisburg or something like that. I thought about the trip to the Keys, but at that time of year I just can't break away from work for that long, blows those moose.

Yeah lots of time, who knows if I will have a car done, or if I can get off work, but if possible I might just drive to your hitch a ride with you?? No favours, other than half the gas monies and some food I guess.

I'm heading down that way next weekend to pick up the FD.... I'll scout it out :rofl:

I hate you, but there is a local FD selling for $12k wish I had the money.

Nismo

12-04-2009, 06:12 PM

Disassembled my rear subframe today, needs one new wheel bearing so it's getting both, I also made a new lower arm bar, its amazing what you can do with some 1" round tubing and a press in the basement. Pics are coming of the lower arm bars, it's just drying.

TitaniumTT

12-04-2009, 07:30 PM

Pics now. I have no patience especially with pressing plans tonight. Ther better be pics next time I log in or there will be consequences :smilielol5:

Nismo

12-04-2009, 07:36 PM

Pics now. I have no patience especially with pressing plans tonight. Ther better be pics next time I log in or there will be consequences :smilielol5:

Sexy consequences?

Nismo

12-04-2009, 08:04 PM

pics for Mr.Horny.

I'm thinking about somehow triangulating this back to the tranny mounts.

Max777

12-04-2009, 08:58 PM

lol, that is so simple, yet so effective, I am going to copy that!

---just sayin.

Nismo

12-04-2009, 09:04 PM

lol, that is so simple, yet so effective, I am going to copy that!

---just sayin.

I was thinking about selling them for $40 so send me $20 please.

Edit, I just successfully drilled 2 .040" holes in my left index finger nail... And it feels fantastic!!!

Max777

12-04-2009, 11:47 PM

/\ lol, that's funny and terrible at the same time, pics or it didn't happen!

TitaniumTT

12-04-2009, 11:54 PM

Sexy consequences?

Possibly, you better get your safety goggles and the speculum :suspect:

pics for Mr.Horny.

I'm thinking about somehow triangulating this back to the tranny mounts.

Nice Kevin. I think going back to the tranny mount or even the frame rail would be a good idea. I'd have to look under the car again but I'm not sure if it's even possible to go all the way back to the tranny mounts on the body.

I was thinking about selling them for $40 so send me $20 please.

:smilielol5: Nice, you've seen the one I built yes? Retardedly overthought to say the least.

Edit, I just successfully drilled 2 .040" holes in my left index finger nail... And it feels fantastic!!!

Ok, once I can forgive but, unless you had a huge blood blister underthere that needed some relieving.......... twice?

Nismo

12-05-2009, 09:27 AM

/\ lol, that's funny and terrible at the same time, pics or it didn't happen!

Here you go the pressure bled off all night, and it's still kinda sore.

Max777

12-06-2009, 05:43 AM

Damn, so how did you even do that? and twice!

Nismo

12-06-2009, 10:15 AM

I used my hand to drill it out, because I whacked my finger with a hammer. I heated the drill bit up nice and hot to sterilize it, and drilled on the part that had blood pressure building up underneath it.

Max777

12-06-2009, 02:19 PM

you sir, have balls. I am not even worried to admit i that I would be to much of a p**** to drill into my own hand...

Nismo

12-06-2009, 03:17 PM

you sir, have balls. I am not even worried to admit i that I would be to much of a p**** to drill into my own hand...

LOL it's not like I used a hand drill just a drill bit and my right hand...

TitaniumTT

12-06-2009, 07:44 PM

LOL it's not like I used a hand drill just a drill bit and my right hand...

:smilielol5: I've done that before but I've used a needle. Cherry hot melts the fingernail away. Best thing you can do for it really. Even blood blisters. You gotta pop those fuckers before it scabs underneath. If it scabs, you're in for a long road before it finally heals. If you get all the blood out, it'll heal in a matter of days as opposed to weeks.

My buddy on the other hand..... well lets just say his friend bashed his finger good during the day and after a LONG night at the bar, had his friends use an 18V DeWalt cordless and a 1/16". Needless to say they went too deep.

Max777

12-07-2009, 02:50 AM

If you didn't use a drill, it doesn't count... haha. I have used a needle for that shit too, and acne as well back when I had problems with it.

Nismo

12-17-2009, 04:39 PM

Anyone know where can get a 50mm HKS wastgate inlet flange?

Nismo

02-01-2010, 09:31 PM

Thought, I would post up how I removed the Exhaust port sleeves, and why:

Here is why:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/generic/DSC00700.jpg

Here is how:
Clean the carbon off, I recommend, brake clean
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/generic/DSC00688.jpg
Stick the Trusty, MIG welder in there and blast away until you have a nice mound of weld
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/generic/DSC00693.jpg
Attach Vice Grips, and wiggle out
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/generic/DSC00697.jpg
Voila, no more Sleeve in housing!!
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/generic/DSC00699.jpg

I apologize for the crappy pics, but you get the Idea

Cheers,

Kevin

TitaniumTT

02-01-2010, 10:26 PM

Kevin, are you still in need of a full set of injectors and a 1:1 RR Reg?

Nismo

02-01-2010, 10:38 PM

Kevin, are you still in need of a full set of injectors and a 1:1 RR Reg?

Nope, I have lots of fuel, and I have a Aeromotive with 3/8" NPT inlets, and outlet, I'm good, I have a .96A/R Turbine housing coming for my Turbo tho, I spose it's a TO4E O trim... Just bought seals, and corner seals, so I guess I could start clearancing the seals...

TitaniumTT

02-01-2010, 11:56 PM

You still planning on making DGRRX?

Nismo

02-02-2010, 09:33 PM

Donno bud, I spose I could drive my car down there STOCK, no turbos, no RE or anything... Just have to transfer it into my name, and get insurance...

Nismo

04-28-2010, 08:29 PM

Well, I think it's time for an update, I have some time off (laid off) waiting for a call for another job, and I figure I better get my butt in gear.

I never did update this thread before with the lower arm bar, so I will post those pics as well.

Here is the lower control are bar I made, pretty easy really get some 1" tube and crusj the ends in a press, and drill a few holes and you are good to go.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01168.jpg

Here it is installed:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01193.jpg

Tearing the front subframe down so I can wash and repaint it:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01194.jpg

Now in order to make way for the new subframe to go in I have to dismantle the one currently on the car; I'm sure a few FC owners can agree with me here, getting the brake rotors off the front is a MAJOR cluster fuck... I found away to get the bastards off, I made a few new swear words up a few years ago, when I was hammering them off, and even with my hydraulic press I couldn't get them off so this is what I did:

Here are the Siamese twins, you separate them and you kill one of them, usually the rotor, it's cheaper than going to a shop, and not that hard or time consuming, took about 25mins or so:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01196.jpg

Take Mr.Grinder, and cut notches in the hat of the rotor, you will see a hole in the middle stop grinding there:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01197.jpg

Insert cold chisel with a hammer:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01198.jpg

You will actually crack the rotor and this separates the the hub from the rotor partially. Be careful when doing this you don't want a chunk of rotor coming off at 120MPH:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01200.jpg

Oh, and you thought it would just pop off now right? Not so much... Reinstall it on the car with a bolt through the strut, and on the ball joint mounting points:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01201.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01202.jpg

Insert a prybar between the rotor and the brake caliper mounting boss and hammer in that starts the separation even more:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01203.jpg

and one in the lower mounting boss:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01204.jpg

After the prybars no longer fit in there, hit the rotor with a hammer, and rotate it a 1/4 turn every strike until this happens:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01206.jpg

Here is why they don't separate...:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01209.jpg

Have fun, and I'll be more vigilant on the updates now!

WE3RX7

04-29-2010, 07:51 AM

Nismo

04-29-2010, 10:50 AM

I have never had that much trouble getting brake rotors off my FC, or any vehicle for that matter, lol... WTF. Was it just that corroded? I mean, the hubs are AL so to prevent this reason of rusting solid on the rotor... I've had to use an air hammer and some deep creep but thats about it...

Although, I just saw your in Ontario. Corrosion there must be much worse :)

I have never had an easy time, the car has 75k miles, so they could be the originals. Also when you put two disimilar metals together you are going to get corrosion like that, specially with heat cycling like you see on a brake rotor.

WE3RX7

04-29-2010, 10:56 AM

Yea... but I'm thinking the northern weather doesn't help. I've pulled original rotors from a 7 with 82K miles (on the rotors) and they still came off fairly clean... it was a florida car though...

Nismo

04-29-2010, 10:59 AM

Yea... but I'm thinking the northern weather doesn't help. I've pulled original rotors from a 7 with 82K miles (on the rotors) and they still came off fairly clean... it was a florida car though...

Being on the Ocean can't help, but that must be nice LOL my 20ton press couldn't get them off it was crazy!!

Max777

05-03-2010, 11:22 AM

did you try a sledge hammer? Those work great for me.

Nismo

05-04-2010, 11:15 PM

did you try a sledge hammer? Those work great for me.

Can't swing a sledge in the wheel well, and a Minisledge in on my need to buy list.

I have been busy, cleaning, stripping and painting everything bolted to the front subframe this week, should have updates in a few days!

TitaniumTT

05-04-2010, 11:36 PM

Nismo

05-05-2010, 09:05 AM

oxy/ace torch and a deadblow has never failed me. Hell the torch and a #3 screwdriver has always worked when the impact fails to get the holding screws out

What are you using for secondary rails and injectors Kevin?

I don't have Torches right yet, again on the need to buy list LOL.

I am using the Stock RE rails and Modified Ford 1680cc Injectors.

Buggy

05-05-2010, 09:12 AM

Nismo

05-05-2010, 04:36 PM

I'll have to swing by and see the progress on the car. I haven't seen it since I dropped it off at your place last fall. Maybe when I'm putting my break in miles on the Rx-4 a trip to Goderich will be in order.

Yes come on over, you can even help me build the deck if you time it right LOL.

Time for another update:

While I was removing the front subframe I found lots of surface rust... Something I was so happy I thought this car was mostly free of, well it's not some idiot put a standard brake fitting in the master cylinder, and it pissed brake fluid everywhere! The entire drivers side frame rail doesn't have any paint any longer:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01214.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01215.jpg

Here is the culprit, a whopping 3 threads of engagement if I'm lucky, not is it stupid to ruin the paint it's majorly unsafe!:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01217.jpg

I have also been very busy painting the front suspension components:

Ball Joints:

I also cut off the old rubber boots, and installed the Energy Suspension boots:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01213.jpg

Control arms, already have Energy Suspension bushings installed, with a fresh coat of aluminum paint:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01212.jpg

and the subframe, 3 coats of matte black rustoleum later:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01210.jpg

I have to figure the best way to neutralize the brake fluid and get a coat of paint on there. So updates might take a few days now.

FC3S.USD

05-05-2010, 09:24 PM

Great updates.

This project is coming along well.

Just remember, don't add one parts without a tune ;).

Buggy

05-06-2010, 06:11 AM

Just give that area a good wash with some brake clean. That will get rid of any brake fluid. Shouldn't hurt any of the exisiting paint either.

TitaniumTT

05-06-2010, 06:53 AM

I have never had an easy time, the car has 75k miles, so they could be the originals. Also when you put two disimilar metals together you are going to get corrosion like that, specially with heat cycling like you see on a brake rotor.

There's the real reason right there. The salt on the rd doesn't help and the salt air makes things that much worse too.

Just give that area a good wash with some brake clean. That will get rid of any brake fluid. Shouldn't hurt any of the exisiting paint either.

Brake clean is good for washing it but it absolutely WILL take paint off if let sit long enough.

Clean with brake clean
sand with a flat disc
reclean with brake clean
spray with rust converter
sand with flat disc again(this basically takes all the rust converter off except the converter in the pits)
prime
paint
touch yourself

Buggy

05-06-2010, 10:17 AM

Ya, I should have added to that if you use the brake clean, wipe it dry with a rag right away. With base/clear paint, short term exsposure shouldn't be an issue. A good brake cleaner will evaporate pretty quickly anyway, wiping it down with a clean rag is just a little more insurance.

WE3RX7

05-06-2010, 12:07 PM

The rust is the same spot I had mine long ago before the engine bay was painted. Get your hands on some good cleaner (POR marine clean is good stuff, as is simple-green)... more important than the cleaner is to use a rust CONVERTER solution first. POR15 is an excellent product, but a bit pricey... once you have the converter on, sanded and primed and then sanded - apply your paint.

Its all looking pretty good so far though...

classicauto

05-06-2010, 03:04 PM

clean with brake clean
sand with a flat disc
reclean with brake clean
spray with rust converter
sand with flat disc again(this basically takes all the rust converter off except the converter in the pits)
prime
paint
touch yourself

do not miss that step.

Nismo

05-06-2010, 04:40 PM

do not miss that step.

I actually could have used your advice on the paint... And you have to be a smart ass and say that!

Thanks Joe, Thanks a lot man lol. :banghead:

I am only doing a temp fix for now, too hard with the engine in, it will be redone either by myself, of Classicauto when ever I find money to paint it.

Buggy

05-07-2010, 09:02 AM

I actually could have used your advice on the paint... And you have to be a smart ass and say that!

Thanks Joe, Thanks a lot man lol. :banghead:

I am only doing a temp fix for now, too hard with the engine in, it will be redone either by myself, of Classicauto when ever I find money to paint it.

Ha, I actually thought the same thing. I saw Joe posted and thought, hmm maybe he had something inteligent to say about this paint/rust situation. Nope, nothing. I will admit though, that was funny.

Nismo

05-14-2010, 09:56 PM

It's update time again.

The subframe, depowered power steering rack, control arms have been installed, and the rust has been fixed until I can do a proper repair when I yank the engine.

Down to bare metal, ready to be primed:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01223.jpg

Primed, and ready for paint:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01227.jpg

Painted, and waiting for subframe:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01230.jpg

Steering rack freshly painted:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01228.jpg

Subframe, steering rack and solid engine mounts installed:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01236.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01234-1.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01235.jpg

Well, that's all for now, should be able to get the spindles painted and installed, wheel bearings re-packed with grease, and brakes painted and installed this weekend.

Monday I am having an appraiser come over so I can get the car in my name, then I can get a Safety, and I can Rock and Roll!!!

Nismo

05-19-2010, 05:41 PM

Just ordered my Shine hood, getting it shipped to Port Huron, Michigan so I can pick it up, so no brokerage, and maybe some duty/tax. Was only 620 shipped, which sucks because 5 weeks ago we were at par .

I also got the car appraised, and is registered in my name, only Paid $16 bucks in PST to transfer it.

Max777

05-20-2010, 07:38 PM

Can't swing a sledge in the wheel well, and a Minisledge in on my need to buy list.

I have been busy, cleaning, stripping and painting everything bolted to the front subframe this week, should have updates in a few days!

What I meant was, you take off the brake caliper, and then you hit the rotor in the space that the caliper left open? Should be plenty of room, no?:o11:

TitaniumTT

05-20-2010, 08:45 PM

Kevin, did you remember to touch yourself while everything was drying?

Nismo

05-20-2010, 08:56 PM

What I meant was, you take off the brake caliper, and then you hit the rotor in the space that the caliper left open? Should be plenty of room, no?:o11:

I don't know man, kind of hard in my 20x13 garage, and the only sledge I have is 12lbs.

Kevin, did you remember to touch yourself while everything was drying?

I touched myself after every step!

TitaniumTT

05-20-2010, 09:07 PM

I touched myself after every step!

You need to be careful there pumkin, especially with dirty hands, if you clean yourself off with acetone make sure you don't get any down your pee-hole.

project86

05-20-2010, 10:04 PM

You need to be careful there pumkin, especially with dirty hands, if you clean yourself off with acetone make sure you don't get any down your pee-hole.

:o11:That sounds painful....

Nismo

06-09-2010, 01:54 AM

Well I got my Shine hood, I am pretty happy with it, but little did I know how thin it is, going to have to dowel and fiberglass the underside to get some strength, Joe brought this to my attention, and I am happy he did!

WE3RX7

06-10-2010, 07:21 AM

Which hood did you get from Shine? Mine doesn't seem to have any strength issues...

Nismo

06-10-2010, 09:33 AM

Which hood did you get from Shine? Mine doesn't seem to have any strength issues...

I got the FRP, Joe recommended that I add some material to the underside as it is fairly shin and could cause cracking to the paint. So I will get some 1/4'' dowel, and fiberglass over that.

WE3RX7

06-10-2010, 12:47 PM

Ah - did you get the Panspeed version or their "sexy" style?

Nismo

06-10-2010, 03:49 PM

Ah - did you get the Panspeed version or their "sexy" style?

Sorry yeah the panspeed!

Nismo

07-13-2010, 09:29 PM

Little update, been driving the car N/A since May 2-4, and loving every slow minute of it!

Fixing small things right now, like the wiper switch here is how I did it.

Cut an access hole in the back of the switch:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01278.jpg

Desolder these 6 pins:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01280.jpg

And these 6 pins:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01281.jpg

These are the replacement replays for the ones I removed, $27 bucks for them both shipped over night from MN:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01282.jpg

New relays in place:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01285.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01287.jpg

Video of it not working before, you can hear nothing but the single speed works:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/th_MOV01289.jpg (http://s63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/?action=view&current=MOV01289.mp4)

Here you can hear it working on all speeds:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/th_MOV01291.jpg (http://s63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/?action=view&current=MOV01291.mp4)

Nismo

07-15-2010, 07:34 PM

Well the Exhaust has been ported, the intake has been polished!

Didn't change the intake timing at all, just opened up the exhaust a touch, I am hoping this will make the turbo spool like the stock one once did.

Here's a few pics:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01300.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01299.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01296.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01295.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h160/NismoConvert/RE%20Build/DSC01294.jpg

I'll spend a little more time cleaning them up, but it's going to get dirty again as soon as I fire it up, so it's not going to be a like a mirror.

TitaniumTT

07-15-2010, 09:01 PM

Nismo

07-15-2010, 09:38 PM

I've had good success opening the exhaust a little sooner. I generally don't touch the exhaust closing or intake opening on turbo engines. Has worked well for me in the past.

Are you going to portmatch all the main's/block Kevin?

Looks good so far...... from what I can see anyway...... do you own a camera ;)

I I just ported to the bottom of the stock chamfer, and added a new one! I guess I could post better pics, but that requires work, I'll get some later if you are good ;) I'm no porting god, and I never will be.

I have port matched all the manifold yes.

MaczPayne

07-15-2010, 11:48 PM

Where did you buy the relays for the wiper switches?

Nismo

07-16-2010, 12:36 AM

www.digi-key.com

part number:

G6C-2114P-US-DC12

classicauto

07-16-2010, 07:27 AM

I'm no porting god, and I never will be.

neither was dave gibson, and yours look much better :lol:

I like the stock overlap port job. Someone else in ontario decdied to do that :suspect: with a single turbo'd rhotormhotor......

So can we drink beer and point at your engine pieces at BCM or what?? :driving:

Nismo

07-16-2010, 01:02 PM

neither was dave gibson, and yours look much better :lol:

I like the stock overlap port job. Someone else in ontario decdied to do that :suspect: with a single turbo'd rhotormhotor......

So can we drink beer and point at your engine pieces at BCM or what?? :driving:

Yeah well Dave was a weeeeeeee bit slow...

Sure yes... Stock overlap? I guess you are the other one? I like just porting the exhaust because I want this thing to last a bit, and it should have Stock port FD drivability, and Single turbo reliability! The exhaust port should spool the hell out of the TO4E :D

Lol, I won't be bringing them along, I just painted them, and I want to keep them clean, and chip free, they are covered in fluid film right now, it makes things a real mess in a hurry!