Oil Metering Lines

[Nevelon]

Hello everyone,

I have a 1986 non-turbo automatic. I did some work on the metering unit, and all four lines broke. I tried to use a brass coupler to mend them, but they were all so brittle that they just kept snapping and deteriorating.

Now I have a few questions.

How Important are the lines?
If I block off the mettering unit and pour oil into the gas tank, will everything be okay?

At what rate is the oil released into the motor? How much PSI is the oil being sent though the lines?

Are there other material I can use besides the plastic lines?

If I do replace all of the lines, I know I will have to remove the intake manifold. If I do this, are there any gaskets I will have to replace?

Thanks a lot for your time. Any and all help will be appreciated.

[FerociousP]

Hello everyone,

I have a 1986 non-turbo automatic. I did some work on the metering unit, and all four lines broke. I tried to use a brass coupler to mend them, but they were all so brittle that they just kept snapping and deteriorating.

Now I have a few questions.

How Important are the lines?
Important
If I block off the mettering unit and pour oil into the gas tank, will everything be okay?
Yes, though you will need remove/cap off the old lines.
At what rate is the oil released into the motor? How much PSI is the oil being sent though the lines?
Dependant on throttle position. Use about 1oz. 2cycle oil to 1 gal of gas. Almost zero PSI, and very little flow. Think of it as more of a dripper than a pump.
Are there other material I can use besides the plastic lines?
If you rebuild the plastic lines with new tubing, they will last another 20 years. (or longer than the car will probably run) There are companies that sell the proper materials for $20-30
If I do replace all of the lines, I know I will have to remove the intake manifold. If I do this, are there any gaskets I will have to replace?
If you keep the manifolds/ throttle body as one piece, I think you will only have to replace one gasket (LIM to UIM gasket).

Thanks a lot for your time. Any and all help will be appreciated.

Mazdatrix.com for the gaskets

search for OMP lines to find the tutorial on how to rebuild them. (It may not be on this website.)

Good luck!

[Whizbang]

ferocious is correct. Make sure that you address this issue asap

[Rx-7fetish]

At the very least if you have to drive it mix 1 ounce of 2 stroke oil to 1 gallon of gasoline in the tank already plus anymore you add after until you get those lines fixed

[Nevelon]

Thanks a lot Ferocious.

The good thing is that I have not been driving it since the line incident.

The zero psi really surprised me. I know the oil pump can hit 110psi when the peddles down.

I'm trying to go about this in an economical way. At 20 -30 dollars a line, that's a lot of cash. I can afford it, but I don't want too. Since there is near zero psi, what's stopping me from using other cheaper materials? Why did Mazda choose to use plastic?

I want to avoid putting oil in the fuel tank. I'm worried about gunking things up.

[Rx-7fetish]

I want to avoid putting oil in the fuel tank. I'm worried about gunking things up.
As long as you use 2 stroke you wont have that problem, its made to be mixed with gasoline, hundreds of (well maybe not quite that many) rx7 owners on this site alone premix everyday with no problems. Some owners premix even if there omp is working perfect just as an added safety measure.http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n209/nubz1/drum.jpg I use this

[My5ABaby]

As long as you use 2 stroke you wont have that problem, its made to be mixed with gasoline, hundreds of (well maybe not quite that many) rx7 owners on this site alone premix everyday with no problems. Some owners premix even if there omp is working perfect just as an added safety measure.http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n209/nubz1/drum.jpg I use this

I use that, or any cheap TCW-3 2 cycle oil.

[Whizbang]

i use 2 cycle motorcycle oil

[FerociousP]

Thanks a lot Ferocious.

The good thing is that I have not been driving it since the line incident.

The zero psi really surprised me. I know the oil pump can hit 110psi when the peddles down.

It's feed is pressurized I believe, but IIRC the pump uses a worm gear (think like a ancient way to move water uphill, screw type movement) to provide a flow of oil to the oil injectors. the intake stroke of the rotor pulls and atomizes the oil into the chamber.... i think.

I'm trying to go about this in an economical way. At 20 -30 dollars a line, that's a lot of cash. I can afford it, but I don't want too. Since there is near zero psi, what's stopping me from using other cheaper materials? Why did Mazda choose to use plastic?

I'm pretty sure I made mine for about $30 total for all four. I actually had to make them though, not buy them. I reused the banjo fittings and bought new line and even found the same type of metal clamp.

I want to avoid putting oil in the fuel tank. I'm worried about gunking things up.Nah, people do it all the time. As long as the vehicle gets driven you will be ok.


.

[Nevelon]

I had no clue how popular of an idea that is. I will start using the two stroke oil.

I will block off the metering for now, and worrie about the lines later.

Thank-you everyone for the help.

[FerociousP]

make sure you plug the lines themselves too...

[Rx-7fetish]

make sure you plug the lines themselves too...

Disconnect the rod between the throttle body and the pump also. Be sure not to lose it though lol

[dudemaaan]

I posted a how to on rebuilding those lines in the 3rd gen section not long ago. The materials are cheap, prob $20-30 for all the lines. It's very easy to do and the material used is teflon so it will last longer then the stock lines. The parts are the same between gen 2 and 3. But i think you might have 3 lines instead of 2? I run premix along with the omp. 8 ounces per tank.

[FerociousP]

2nd gens have 4 lines.

clamps
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?PACACHE=000000110251736

clamp tool (should be able to find it locally cheaper)
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1903484&PMT4NO=0

hose (gauge your own ID and wall thickness)
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?PACACHE=000000110252129

[parrotfever]

2nd gens have 4 lines.

clamps
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?PACACHE=000000110251736

clamp tool (should be able to find it locally cheaper)
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1903484&PMT4NO=0

hose (gauge your own ID and wall thickness)
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?PACACHE=000000110252129

Great source to know - I've been following as I know I'll be doing the same rebuild. Can you rcheck the clamp & hose links. They come back as not found. Many thanks! :seeya:

[dudemaaan]

No special tool is needed for the ear clamps, pretty much any kind of pliers will work just fine. Hell a rock and a screwdriver could probably be used in a pinch.

My writeup for 3rd gen Here (http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=9126) (same for 2nd gen just different amount of lines required)

The tubing is part number MSC # 48701031 currently at This link (http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1905293&PMT4NO=0) $2.19 per ft

Ear clamp part number is MSC #: 48547962 $.41 ea Currently found here (http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1903433&PMT4NO=0)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/dudemaaan/th_attachment-3.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/dudemaaan/?action=view&current=attachment-3.jpg)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/dudemaaan/th_attachment-2.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/dudemaaan/?action=view&current=attachment-2.jpg)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/dudemaaan/th_attachment-1.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/dudemaaan/?action=view&current=attachment-1.jpg)

[FerociousP]

Great source to know - I've been following as I know I'll be doing the same rebuild. Can you rcheck the clamp & hose links. They come back as not found. Many thanks! :seeya:

probably because I was using their in-house search function.

Tubing (filter by "Teflon" which covers all teflon materials, then filter by ID and wall thickness)
http://www1.mscdirect.com/Rubber-Tubing/Tubing/Hose,-Tube-&-Fittings/s0000000862.HTML

clamps (filter by 2-ear, then by necessary diameter)
http://www1.mscdirect.com/Ear-Type/Hose-Clamps/clamping-Tools/Hose,-Tube-&-Fittings/s0000000800.HTML

[FerociousP]

dudeman thanks for finding the correct tube and clamp sizes. I was too lazy ;)

[dudemaaan]

Yep no problem

[Max777]

2nd gens have 4 lines.

clamps
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?PACACHE=000000110251736

clamp tool (should be able to find it locally cheaper)
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1903484&PMT4NO=0

hose (gauge your own ID and wall thickness)
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?PACACHE=000000110252129

holy shit you bought a "tool"??? Lol, I just used slip joint pliers, it's my fav tool to use, and it worked just fine.

[dawicka2]

Wow, i didnt even know there was a "tool". :)

I went to the tractor store and bought weedwacker fuel line for like 1.50 or so, then used thick aircraft fastening wire and twisted it on to hold it.

That was 2 trouble free years ago.

john ny