Would anyone want new Front hubs for the FC???

[Atkins Dan]

Please post here...

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=7947

Mazda list on these is about 450 to 500.00 each for these....

My Question to you all is there enough interest in making these..

With these you will be able to replace the bearings as the stock ones you cant get the bearing races to reseat.. at least I have not had the luck in doing so..

If there is enough interest the target price would be about 1/2 of what Mazda is asking...

When you post up I will need top know 4 or 5 lug hubs...
Dan

[Max777]

Dan, I would like to let people know about an alternative aftermarket product in the same price range as what you're offerning:


You can get 2 Super Now! duraluminum hubs for $500 SHIPPED to your door.

http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Super-Now-Strengthened-Front-Hub-Set-FC3S-RX-7-54461




I really like this company, however their products are not widely available to the US market at the moment, but that would change if they were picked up by a vendor.

http://www.rhdjapan.com/images/product/54473/Image/Normal/Image1.jpg

http://www.rhdjapan.com/images/product/54461/Image/Normal/Image1.jpg

http://www.rhdjapan.com/images/product/54461/Image/Normal/Image6.jpg

http://www.rhdjapan.com/images/product/54461/Image/Normal/Image4.jpg

[My5ABaby]

He's saying he's going to offer them around $200-250...

[Atkins Dan]

Max Can you change the bearings in those hubs???? if you cant than what is the point plus for that kind of money I may as well will go to Mazda and get them. If I want new.
Thanks for the link though..
Dan

[Max777]

I am not 100% sure, from the pictures, you change the bearings the same way as stock:

weld a tab to the race, and punch it out, then flip and repeat. Afterwards, press in new races and install new bearings.

Also, the price would be $250 each, right? $500 is for a set of TWO HUBS, so this would be the same as buying two factory hubs but better. I guess that someone might want to buy a single hub, but If I was replacing them, I dont see any reason not to upgrade.

Does the pair rule apply to hubs the same as it does to shocks, springs, pads, and tires? (replaced in pairs on both sides)


PS: Sorry to steal your thread Dan... :D

[WE3RX7]

Not to play devils advocate, but I just recently replaced my wheel bearings... its not a terribly trivial thing to do.

However, I would not have been opposed to new hubs if they were in that $250/pr price range...

[My5ABaby]

I am not 100% sure, from the pictures, you change the bearings the same way as stock:

weld a tab to the race, and punch it out, then flip and repeat. Afterwards, press in new races and install new bearings.

Also, the price would be $250 each, right? $500 is for a set of TWO HUBS, so this would be the same as buying two factory hubs but better. I guess that someone might want to buy a single hub, but If I was replacing them, I dont see any reason not to upgrade.

Does the pair rule apply to hubs the same as it does to shocks, springs, pads, and tires? (replaced in pairs on both sides)


PS: Sorry to steal your thread Dan... :D
Welding a tab isn't worth it. Just heat the hell out of the hub and it should just fall out.

[Max777]

/\ It's how I did mine, I had a welder available..... :D


Also, dan are you offering them for $250 for a PAIR? The way you worded it, I uderstood it as 1/2 of $500 for each, so $250 for each, which would be $500 for two....

[My5ABaby]

/\ It's how I did mine, I had a welder available..... :D
If you can weld it's a fine way to do it, but most people don't.

[Atkins Dan]

Max I am not worried about you steeling my thread as I was not aware of RHD having these available..

I will have to get one and see if the bearings can be replaced..if they cant be than I would thing I have the upper hand..We shall see..

Dan

[Max777]

Ok, cool, however I dont understand what you mean by "I will have to see if the bearings can be replaced?"

What is the problem with replacing the bearings on the stock hubs? I got mine done just fine... and if there is a problem, then how will the product you offer be better over OEM?

I was reading a bit on the Super Now! hubs and it states that they are more resistant to heat and warping then their stock counterparts, which makes me think that any bearing race issues might just be caused from warping of the hub body itself? The wheel hub does get quite hot as it touches the brake rotor. Am I on the right track here?

[vex]

Ok, cool, however I dont understand what you mean by "I will have to see if the bearings can be replaced?"

What is the problem with replacing the bearings on the stock hubs? I got mine done just fine... and if there is a problem, then how will the product you offer be better over OEM?

I was reading a bit on the Super Now! hubs and it states that they are more resistant to heat and warping then their stock counterparts, which makes me think that any bearing race issues might just be caused from warping of the hub body itself? The wheel hub does get quite hot as it touches the brake rotor. Am I on the right track here?

Some people have difficulty with replacing the bearings in the hubs. Other makers/cars have an efficient way of replacing bearings without too much of a headache. I believe Dan is talking about getting a set developed to mimic the other cars that have easily swapped bearings.

[Max777]

I heard that the spindles on the FC are made of soft metal and sometimes have problems with the hubs bending them.....

Do you think there's a way to utilize some sealed bearings in the hub like some FWD models?

[Atkins Dan]

I replace a few bearing in the 86-91 hubs back in the 90's and they did not last the races would not seat.. So I am thinking like a 1st gen guy as I can change thoes bearing all day long with out a problem. plus the 1st gens are castiron and the hub is built into the brake rotor.
where the 2nd gens it is 2 different parts so if I come up with a castiron or steel hub than anyone will be able to replace the bearings with no problem

I have never been able to have the luck that some of you have had with the 2nd gens..

Dan

[classicauto]

I've always welded a bolt across the race and tapped it out with a hammer. A couple quick tacks and light taps drop it out. Haven't had an issue with seating new races/shortened bearing life *yet* though.

If you make them, you could simply do what mazdatrix says to do when changing the bearings - grind notches out of the center shoulder. Except being that you're making the whole assembly, you could put 3 or 4 notches in to allow a punch to get under the backside of the race - that should do it :)

w00t for new FC products :lol: