87 TII, TECgt, T04-R....DGRR '09 build!

[classicauto]

Well, I've changed alot around on the car, and am still progressing along with it. Next week, it'll be wired and fired! (no shit, otherwise it'll tough to drive across country! :) )

For the last couple years I've been running a Haltech E6X. Good box, but had *alot* of trouble with getting solid reliable crank signal. By alot of trouble I'm of course reffering to a pile of broken apex seals, several trash housings, chewed turbines and words that only a sailor would love.

I made the ECU switch mostly out of the need for extreme trigger accuracy. The TEC series of ECU's only use their own mag sensors and trigger wheels, no adapting into factory stuff. The system I'm running has a 60-2 tooth wheel mounted directly on the crank. No more CAS gear slop, VR conditioning, gains/filters or PROBLEMS (knocking on wood :lol: )

The other benefits of the new ECU were full sequential injection and ignition. The ECU comes with its own coils (similar or the same as IGN-1 coils) but obviously, I won't know how beefy they are until 18-20psi with 800cc of straight water.

This thread will just cover the changes I've made to the car, and getting it to deals gap (plus the keys! yeah!) and back.

Now some pik-tars.

My ECU mount. I didn't hack up the one I made for the haltech, so I can later on re-use the whole gammot (with a different crank trigger other then stock)
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4881&stc=1&d=1238179499

Basically just put two flat bars across the stock ECU mount. Bolted EMS down, done. The pic shows the foam I installed under the ECU to minimize vibration....it just illustrates how much the foam is compressed.



http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4882&stc=1&d=1238179499

Here's the wiring under the dash. Most of its not visible - that was the idea. Ran it all with the stock wiring. When I re-did the engien harness for the new ECU, I thought "what the hell" and decided it would be a good idea if I removed *EVERY SINGLE* piece of wiring added to the car in the past, and did once, and correctly. There was all kinds of shit in there from the previous owner (CP racing....) shit you'd never want your friends to find out about much like the fat chick you got a BJ from while hamemred.



http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4884&stc=1&d=1238179499

Here's a nice shot of the a little harness. My glove box is littered with electronics, and in a stupor of some type, I thought it was a smashing idea to wire it all in straight up, no plugs. Well - when you decide to pull the glove box after doing something that stupid, you realize the error of your ways and make everything plug and play. The glove box houses: AI controller, Fuel pressure gauge, secret ninja switch..... and datalogging switch as well as the COM cable for the ECU.


http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4885&stc=1&d=1238179499

Above is fuse panel #2. This one is fed of of ACC ignition, or key on only. Feeds a few devices (and one wire is missing in this pic) but its also got a few spare spots if I ever add anything. There's more fuse panels which I'll snap shots of later.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4883&stc=1&d=1238179499

Here we see the mess that's left to wire. Not really much to do here other then wire in the last three realy plugs (two fans and AI) and tidy it up. I decide to stop the wiring progress here because I have everything I need to finish it up...............the engine however needs a bunch of things custom made, so thats where my attention is ATM.

EDIT: You can also see the neato relay mounts I made up out of some AL. Inspiration for those goes to TTT from his ECU mount. The realys had no tabs (GHEY) so I had to improvise something. This foam lined custom bit does the job very well!

[classicauto]

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4886&stc=1&d=1238180364

Main breaker. Used to be in the bin, now is more easily accessible. Also allows for interesting conversations with the passenger. "whats this doo-hickey?"


http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4887&stc=1&d=1238180364

New prosport gauges. Added four more to the line up. Here are EGT's (apillar) and boost. The fuel press. as mentioned is in the glovebox.



http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4888&stc=1&d=1238180364

Just another shot to show the added wiring along with the factory stuff. You can't see it too well here, but beside the large factory blue plugs there are two plugs I've added for the oil pressure and oil temp.


http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4889&stc=1&d=1238180364

Onto greener pastures....


http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4890&stc=1&d=1238180364

NOW. Here we go. Got the piece back from the machinist to adapt the FD front cover onto the FC oil pan. Anyone notice anything wrong with this picture???!??!

If you don't. Have a look at a front iron with an oil pump and chain installed.........yea. My fault for not mocking that up on the iron I gave him, although I'm sure I mentioned it.

[classicauto]

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4891&stc=1&d=1238180920

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4892&stc=1&d=1238180920

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4893&stc=1&d=1238180920

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4894&stc=1&d=1238180920

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4895&stc=1&d=1238180920

More shots of the adaptor, and what happens after I attack it with the cut off wheel!

[classicauto]

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4896&stc=1&d=1238181164

Mocking up the mazmart waterpump with Pineapple idler pulley. Nice piece, needed to trim the thermostat housing ever so slightly on the bottom because it was JUST touchign the belt. Just a note for anyone looking into one of these.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4897&stc=1&d=1238181164

Note the date stamp in this picture. This was about 6pm yesterday. At the end of the night, the FD cover was installed, oil pan back on, ready for the final dressings of turbo mani, WP, *rebuilt* TII trans, and insertion into the hungry chassis :lol:

MORE UPDATES SOON> It'll be making noise next week fellas :)

[classicauto]

Engine and trans together. Awaiting some gear oil to fill her up and I can drop the rotomoto back in place.

Finished coil brackets last night, also welded on new v-band to turbine housing (old one was some random piece that doesn't share dimensions with any other vband on the planet) Pics of those and the engine coming tomorrow...currently fabbing up new IC outlet pip off the turbo, and hoses for the rad--->FD water pump.

I'm waiting for a fitting for the FD front cover to -10AN...won't be able to fire it up until it gets here wednesday, but thursday as long as its not delayed, this thing should be singing.

[stylEmon]

wow man, talk about attention to detail!
I dig the body kit! FC2000?

[classicauto]

Bah i'll post some pics now. Eating a sub.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4898&stc=1&d=1238261630

New turbine flange. My TIG welding skills are rusty. Its like riding a bike I guess, but I've fallen over the handle bars of my bike before!@! :lol:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4899&stc=1&d=1238261630

Trigger wheel centered/welded. Just a few filler-less tacks around it. I gave it a quick coat of paint, don't want TOO much on, dunno if it'll effect the signal...

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4900&stc=1&d=1238261630

Belt/pulley setup. NO MORE SLIPPING FOR ME! I don't know why but I'm a little horny for this setup. I guess after years of having to use a pry bar on the alternator to tension it, buying pounds and pounds of v belts to find two the same, having match pairs that one streches more then the other on, you get a little fed up with that shit.


http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4901&stc=1&d=1238261630

Blingin' rebuilt tranny. Should I leave the tag on? Thoughts? LOL



wow man, talk about attention to detail!
I dig the body kit! FC2000?

Not FC2000. Classicauto2008. I do plan on redoing it and making it a little more "FC". But its a bomex cover with custom headlights (that started out as CP racing units) Its age and level of custom awesomeness is showing in the form of a couple small cracks though.....two of which happened while I had it off and bumped it with the engine hoist DOH.

[classicauto]

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4902&stc=1&d=1238262145

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4903&stc=1&d=1238262145

How it sits currently. My gear oil just got here, so I'm back out on the case.

Thanks for the comment Stylemon, I do try to adress the details!

Moar tomorrow of the powerplant in its home :cheers2:

[classicauto]

Here's some more progress.

Coil brackets. Nice and sturdy.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4935&stc=1&d=1238422771

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4936&stc=1&d=1238422771


Insertion.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4937&stc=1&d=1238422771


I debated turbo orientation for a little while.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4938&stc=1&d=1238422771
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4939&stc=1&d=1238422771

I'll be going with the 2nd picture. Keeps it further from the exhaust and the piping is a tad shorter. The intake will run straight ahead, and under the IC piping. That's all for today, have all the drivetrain buttoned up, the engine harness is on now, plug wires ran.....won't be long now!

[TitaniumTT]

Nicely done Joe! Looking forward to DGRR.

Why the FD pump assembly? Are you still using the stock mounted Rad? I'm curious for the reasoning behind it.

Loving the coil mounts and the attention to detail.

[classicauto]

Mostly because I went with the mazmart unit, and its only available for the FD and RX-8.....plus, the belt setup with an idler was much more advanced in my eyes then the twin v-belts. I plan on eventually doing a V or H mount IC, and as you know, the FD water pump outlets are more favourable for that type of rad mounting.

[djmtsu]

Gonna be sweet. Can't wait to see it in a few weeks!

[classicauto]

Thanks, I can't wait to DRIVE it in a couple weeks! :) Actually I'll be driving it sooner then that though :lol:

[dregg100]

ill race you to see who gets theirs started first! looking great man, cant wait to see it!

[TitaniumTT]

Good call on the outlets for the V or HMIC. I'll get pics of mine up tonight. I was looking at that ReMedy pump. Do want, but the pump I have is working and I have no cooling issues as of yet. We'll see what the summer brings when it's 99% humidity and 100*. That'll be interesting.

I want in on this race to see who get's thiers started first. Work is going to kick my ass for the next two days, I'm HOPING for a start on Wed or thursday. Than I need to break it in for a tentative dyno day on Monday the 6th.

[classicauto]

You're on masin and brian! 3, 2......1 - GO! :lol:

[need RX7]

I wish I could go to DGRR, so many awesome cars are going to be there. :(

Great job on the build so far. :icon_tup:

[classicauto]

Small update:

Engine in and all assembled, need to get a couple hose clamps for the upper rad hose.
Its all ready to be filled with life fluids. This afternoon after I get this FD's engine bay back together, I'll be filling it up, hooking up the instrument cluster (tomake sure the tach works with the TEC) and trying to fire this monster up. :seeya:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4994&stc=1&d=1238851488


I'm very pleased with the new intake setup. Moved from the tiny K&N filter to this larger 6" baby. I liked the shorty, but it would get dirty FAST. I suppose thats mostly because I don't necessairly drive the car in "ideal" conditions all the time, but the small filter area would get caked in black crud after 3-4 weeks of hard driving. I got tired of cleaning it. Also, the old greddy manifold gave me a turbo placement that was difficult to manage anything ince on intake wise. I basically just had a 45* coupler, and filter. Only to get it barely out of the wash from the primary rad fan.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4995&stc=1&d=1238851488


I do have to make one plate to block off the EGR tube. I won't be able to run it anymore with this manifold/exhaust (yes, I ran it up until now) so I'll cut the flange off, weld the hole up and bolt it on.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4996&stc=1&d=1238851488


[soap opera voice]Oh my sweet, we shall make beautiful music together[/soap opera voice] :lol::lol::lol:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4997&stc=1&d=1238851488

[dregg100]

looking good joe. im not looking good for getting mine started this weekend. my fuel rail wont be back from CJ until next week. lol

[TitaniumTT]

Looks like I won the start up contest :cheers2: Got about 60 miles on her too. Nearly impossible to stay out of boost. Running non-sequential I was @ 0 psi by 2500 with light throttle. Although it's doubtful I'll attend DGRR @ this point. I'll give ya the full deatils with pics tomorrow. I can't take the greatest pic until tomorrow afternoon.

Looking good Joe. Happy fires!

[FerociousP]

You have to come!

[classicauto]

Well I got her fired up sunday. Couldn't run it long though as there's a random fuel leak in the center of one of my braided AN lines>>>?!???

Wanted to make sure I'd have no problems connecting to the ECU (really easy, much faster then the E6X) loading my map (also super easy and fast) and that everything would be wired correctly (seems fine. Sensors all reading correctly etc.)

Obviously, I still need to put the dash back in, but other then that and the fuel leak, its ready to join the downpipe up to the exhaust and put some miles on it!!

trying to youtube the vid but the upload is kicking my ass

[classicauto]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrMsneShkdQ
Video is terrible :lol:

[dregg100]

lol's

[cozmo kraemer]

Well I got her fired up sunday. Couldn't run it long though as there's a random fuel leak in the center of one of my braided AN lines>>>?!???

It can be leaking up by the fitting and coming down between the steel and rubber in the line and then leaking through the SS braid at the lowest point. Hard to explain...

As long as it isn't a long run of SS line it is cheap so just take it out and replace it...should be simple enough right? In my LS1 build that was the only issue I had at initial start up, one of my AN to hardline adapter fittings was leaking so I had to REALLY torque it down. I really don't like AN fittings. The ones for my oil cooler seap a little also and they are tight, it is frustrating.

[TitaniumTT]

Yeah, that's a wierd leak to have. I love AN fittings. So much nicer than rubber. Hell, I welded a -10 bung onto my waterpump housing for the return from the heater core and I also pulled both the nipples out of the rear iron and tapped them. The one on for the TB is now a 1/4" NPT plug, and the one for the feed to the heatercore I tapped to 1/2" NPT and used a 1/2" to -10 fitting with one of the puch to fit fittings. Makes taking the hoses off SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much easier. 1/4 turn with a wrench and back it off by hand. A lot better than trying to monkey with those hoses.

As for the hardline adapters, if you were using them with the stock lines, the stock lines are a little smaller than the hardlines that the adapters were intended for, so I'm not surprised that then needed to be cranked on

Just my opinion

[BSC Motorsports]

That's looking real good Joe, hopefully I'll get to see it up close this summer. Keep up the good work!

[classicauto]

Cozmo, I'm on the fence about the AN stuff. As said its nice and easy to R&I once its all made up, but I've got some seepage issues on the ones for my oil cooelr as well...just aggrivating. But i'll address them slowly.

The line thats leaking may be leaking as you say, and working its way up the SS sheath, but I ahve a feeling the line just has a hole in it. It literally sprays a stream across the TB, onto the top of the engine, and up a bit onto the hood :lol: I turned the pump on at first and could smell gas bad, I poked my head out of the cabin and went HOLY MOTHER!

Really no idea how that happened, they were all fine before. I have a piece of -6 that might be long enough to replace it, if not I'll use some regular old 3/8" fuel injector hose and nasty clamps to get me by for now.

I love the ease of AN, but its a bit of a pain in the rear to make. I'm already cringing at the number of pinholes im going to make in my hands fixing this one :lol: If I did it again I'd use the black nylon sheathed stuff....wouldn't abriad anything touching it as badly I'd think.

[Max777]

hey guys, I just wanted to ask something as far as oil cooler an fittings:

would it be a bad idea to use teflon "tape" on these? Like, the kind that people use with water pipes? (real thin and NOT sticky)

[cozmo kraemer]

the -6 stands for 6/16ths which is 3/8ths. You can use standard 3/8ths fuel line with some -6 fittings (depends on the outer diameter of the hose)...

I HATE with a capital HATE, SS braided. I always use the Nomex or Nylon braided for my projects (depending on application). Much easier on the hands :) ... If I need something for extremely high pressure I use the TFE hose that is SS, but that is usually only for power steering lines and stuff over 1500psi (which is only really PS).

FWIW I think Nylon braided is NHRA legal now too. So it passes tech. I know that was an issue before.


The plummer's tape on the oil cooler lines is a good idea. Too bad I would probably have to pull my engine to get to them. I would use the oil/gas resistant plummer's tape though, it is usually pink instead of white. It would work better in the oil cooler application. AN fittings are supposed to seal though, I mean they cost enough...they should seal. It is only after everything is installed that you find the leaks and then it takes exponentially more time to fix/tighten.

[djmtsu]

I use the liquid teflon tape.

That way an errant piece of the tape can't accidentally get into the lines. I have had that happen before.

[classicauto]

The fittings at the cooler, and at the engine, sure. Don't use them on any of the 37* flares though......unless the flare is damaged and leaking, the threads at those fittings are only there to provided positive pressure to the flares to make the seal, so teflon tape or pipe dope there won't do anything but bung them up.

[classicauto]

Well, she's JUST about road worthy. Going to drive it over to the shop tomorrow, throw it on the hoist and mate the downpipe, waste gate dump, and exisiting exhaust.

I've been fighting a couple issues though this week.

1) My heater fan began crapping out intermittently last year. When I pulled the dash off I found a lovely gift from CP racing, the previous owner. The logicon harness haad been molested to no end. Wires just cut with fuses placed in them, wires cut and looped back to other wires, teeing into wires that lead nowhere.......I cleaned it up and put it "back to stock" but when I put the dash in and tried the fan, no go. Grabbed my known good S5 logicon - still no go.

Somewhere, I have no idea where, there's a massive short. I have continuity to ground through both wires on the heater fan. If you try to jumper power to the + side of the fan (without disconnecting the stock harness) you just blow the fuse on the jumper wire. For now so I can defrost if I need to, I'm just jumpering power to the fan with the stock wire cut off......I'll ahve to tug the dash again down the line and really comb this bitch over......I hate finite little issues like this, I garuntee when I find I'll go "no shit that was easy" after 3 days of work :lol:

2) My laptop. Brand new acer asipre One. I bought it for the SOLE PURPOSE of tuning my car. It works absolutely flawlessly, until you're online with the ECU. Then randomly it'll go to a blue screen for 2 seconds with a bunch of stuff about terminal error, dumping physical memory - then it shuts off and restarts.......absolute BS and PITA. I'm going to resurrect the old trusty rusty unit and load the software and see what it does.

I've spoke to electromotive and they told me its a laptop issue, not specific to the WINTEC software :(

My luck continues!!! :):)

[TitaniumTT]

The plummer's tape on the oil cooler lines is a good idea. Too bad I would probably have to pull my engine to get to them. I would use the oil/gas resistant plummer's tape though, it is usually pink instead of white. It would work better in the oil cooler application. AN fittings are supposed to seal though, I mean they cost enough...they should seal. It is only after everything is installed that you find the leaks and then it takes exponentially more time to fix/tighten.

No, plumbers tape or plumbers spooge (as I call it) is a BAD idea on an fittings. The 37* flare seals the line, not the threads like NPT. Thread or spooge can only muck things up.

The fittings at the cooler, and at the engine, sure. Don't use them on any of the 37* flares though......unless the flare is damaged and leaking, the threads at those fittings are only there to provided positive pressure to the flares to make the seal, so teflon tape or pipe dope there won't do anything but bung them up.

:icon_tup:

2) My laptop. Brand new acer asipre One. I bought it for the SOLE PURPOSE of tuning my car. It works absolutely flawlessly, until you're online with the ECU. Then randomly it'll go to a blue screen for 2 seconds with a bunch of stuff about terminal error, dumping physical memory - then it shuts off and restarts.......absolute BS and PITA. I'm going to resurrect the old trusty rusty unit and load the software and see what it does.

I've spoke to electromotive and they told me its a laptop issue, not specific to the WINTEC software :(

My luck continues!!! :):)

Nice, let the finger pointing begin. Gaurunteed if you called the laptop co they say it's a software problem :icon_tup: Either way its better than my laptop. POS takes literally 7 minutes to load the Motec software. I can't justify a new laptop though. I usually just leave the thing booted up too. I hate that thing

Good luck Joe, let us know how everything turns out

[need RX7]

lol spooge...

[classicauto]

Well I've got a few miles on her.

Wish I could tell you how many, but it appears I haven't clipped my speedo cable into the cluster all the way :lol:

Fixing that right now. The laptop *seems* (knock on wood) to be working ok, and the tune is actually going well. Had only gone about 20kms by the time I got most of the vaccum stuff dialed in. Now I just need to burn off the rest of this old fuel, toss in some Ontario High-test and start lighting the wick :)

PS: The TEC drives the tach slightly more accurately then Mazda did! :lol:

[classicauto]

Alrighty!!

I got back from the road trip and from DGRR, AMAZING event that everyone should attend always! DJ, I'd have come out saturday night but kevin had me all pumped up for a sunrise run (4:15am EEEEK!) then left us hangin' so we went alone :lol: I was all set to drink loads american beer too.....:lol:......next year!

Some interesting data I found while on the road trip (OH BTW didn't blow any engines this year -yet- so please please hold the applause! :) ) for starters, gas mileage.

50 Liter fill up, all highway driving, 525km's. In otherwords roughly 9.75-10L/100kms. For my 'merican friends - approximately 23MPG.

I was freakin' blown away.

Now obviously, this is an extreme highway test. we would litearlly fill up the car, get on the highway, lock in cruise at about 75mph and run until the tank was empty. If I boost the car......well, lets just say that I get viper fuel mileage! soudns faster! :)

That was running above 16:1 ratios as well. Its kind of wierd, but my wideband only reads to 16.00:1....so tuning those areas was "fun". I had to bascially do it blind and just run by what the car was telling me/how it feels, but I was surprised when it was still driving well that light loads/cruise areas were pegging the wideband full lean. The actual ratio couldn't be much more then 16.25 though, I just can't see that getting close to 17's would be enough fuel for it to run.

After usingthis ECU for a while though I have to say I really really like this software/way of control. Save for the stupid go$*D0vsaj mother%*$*$&ing laptop crashing on me its very nice.

In other news I've gotten my AFR's up top cleaned up all the way to redline at spring pressure - about 210KPA ABSOLUTE, or 16ish psi. The spring is supposed to be 0.9bar, but I just goes to 15 and gets real happy? I don't know. I can't wait to try frigging around the gain control though - this thing seems to come online pretty good with no help at all, that should really wake it up.

Any profecB experts out there have any advice for a guy wanting better RESPONSE, without much higher peak pressure? I do intend to have a *kill setting* though but I'll figure that one out myself :lol:

[FC3S Murray]

does the Profec have a "GAIN" setting? My Blitz SBC i-d has this setting which increases reponse OR spool time. A little goes a long way BUT too much and you spike.

[classicauto]

Yes its got a gain setting, I'm just curious as to how much that will help if I have the actual solenoid duty cycle really low. Wanting to boost at or near spring pressure but increase response. raising boost AND response should be pretty easy.

I'll just start fiddling around I guess :) thanks

[classicauto]

Its so much fun. Apparently my car thinks so too!!!!!!!!

I popped a seal. Again! w00t

Call me a sadist, but I'm actually a little excited about this one. I'll get into that in a sec, but first off let me list for you guys what the "classicauto solo" rebuild has stood up to so far:

1) Installed with the E6(HEX!)X when it was still having trigger issues.
2) The first 10 mintues/10 kms the engine had on it were (after a short idle) done at 15psi :lol:
3) Over 45 dyno runs
4) Somewhere around the 40th dyno run - the fuel pump fuse blew (clogged filter) and STONE COLD SHUT HER DOWN at about 18psi/5500RPM
5) New EMS, larger turbo....
6) "tuned" by me
7) Driven to the gap, "tuned up some more" by me with Masin behidn the wheel
8) Ran the shit out of it on the gap.....
9) Drove to the keys and back home......(over 7000kms)
10) Ran the shit out of it around here "tuning it some more" :lol:
11) Had the water injection off for the last tuning session, and forgot to turn it back on after :(
12) Blew to bits at 20psi (yes 20, from the T04-R) at around 7,000RPM

All in all, about 17,000kms of shitty tuning and hard driving. Its a hell of an improvment over my previous history of popping them in vaccum, or at 2psi while passing a truck.......on freshly rebuilt engines.

I'm excited about this for the following:

1) I get to inspect my first entirely solo rebuild
2) Inspect the coolant jacket mods I did
3) Inspect the EGR elimination to the sleeves I did
4) I get to install my NRS ceramics!!!! w00T!
5) I get to give up trying to be a tuner, I'm a body man for fuck sakes!! :lol:

I'll post pics of the carnage when I get it apart, but let me just say it blow'd up real good. Much better then before, there was only about 300C of EGT on the rear rotor....

I'll never use anything else but a rotary..........in my rotary car :) The skyline GTR that I don't own yet but will one day can stay inline 6 though ;)

EDIT: I'm in touch with Logan from Defined autoworks, waiting to hear back a few things but I'm planning to use his mountains of skill (and dyno) to do the tuning on the new keg. I may be hard headed on getting and keeping this bitch running on both rotors, but damn these new seals are pricey. I'll let a real master do his thing.....

[JShiz]

lol. good luck

[need RX7]

Damn dude, are you sure you never pissed off any gypsies or anything? :rofl:
At least you're staying positive about it. Good luck with this one.

[classicauto]

Thanks guys. Before I'd say I might have pissed off gypsies - just because the failures were random. But its actually satisfying to have a "regular" failure.....at least, one that can be explained to an extent.

[TehMonkay]

Newer laptops can be a bitch with that stuff, thats why i bought an older thinkpad with a serial port.

[TitaniumTT]

Damn Joe, sorry to hear that. WTF is up with our luck? Are we just cursed? Did we burn down city hall and rape the mayors wife in a former life? Maybe torture some animals or sell kids into prostitution? I don't get it.

At least you're in good spirits about the thing. I tend to look at "failures" as a way to learn and make things stronger. So I'm glad to hear you're not giving up. I think most people would have by this point. After my motor blew, and after we pulled apart the donor and saw the clusterfuck ahead of us I just started blurting out everything that we needed to do and the parts that I needed to buy, A very good friend who helped out alot looked @ me and said, "jeez Bri, you just don't know when to quit do you."
Without even thinking I responded with, "Nope, and it's a strength that most don't have."

Looks like you have that strength too Joe. Good luck and we demand pics of the carnage

[FC3S Murray]

Ah this is no sweat for you now bro. Sucks but it does bring a sense of excitement. I just found a crack on my rear iron AND I TOO am excited about this new little hic-up.

It is nice to know that your blow out was from a simple brain fart and NOT some unknown mechanical bad joo-joo failure. Much better luck 4 you given your past head aches. :)

I have come to the realization that this is what comes with DIY high HP rotary tuning/building. Deal with it or go home. :)

Good luck with this build bro.

[dregg100]

damnit joe, you are not aloud to blow anymore engines!! maybe when you put the NRS ceramics in that will be good luck for you and it will be a long laster!!(is that even a word?)

good to see you are too down about it. so what do you think caused it? no water at 20 psi?

[classicauto]

Newer laptops can be a bitch with that stuff, thats why i bought an older thinkpad with a serial port.

Yea I flip flopped between buying an old refurbished dell with a serial port vs. the one I have now.....the cost was the same for new vs. refurbished so I went the route I did (it has XP though, no vista for me) but sometimes shit happens....I *think* i've got it figured out though with registry fixes and a few little things that my friend did that I do not understand at all :lol:

Damn Joe, sorry to hear that. WTF is up with our luck? Are we just cursed? Did we burn down city hall and rape the mayors wife in a former life? Maybe torture some animals or sell kids into prostitution? I don't get it.

At least you're in good spirits about the thing. I tend to look at "failures" as a way to learn and make things stronger. So I'm glad to hear you're not giving up. I think most people would have by this point. After my motor blew, and after we pulled apart the donor and saw the clusterfuck ahead of us I just started blurting out everything that we needed to do and the parts that I needed to buy, A very good friend who helped out alot looked @ me and said, "jeez Bri, you just don't know when to quit do you."
Without even thinking I responded with, "Nope, and it's a strength that most don't have."

Looks like you have that strength too Joe. Good luck and we demand pics of the carnage

Yea I was reading your thread yesterday and caught some wind of an overheat or something? I have no idea what it is, I think maybe if you're the type to never give up, life gets pissed off and throws all kinds of crap your way. But I'm sure you'd agree that rotary failures do not equal life failures - and in life I'm a very lucky man.

And you shall see pics of the carnage for sure. Just have to get at 'er...


Ah this is no sweat for you now bro. Sucks but it does bring a sense of excitement. I just found a crack on my rear iron AND I TOO am excited about this new little hic-up.

It is nice to know that your blow out was from a simple brain fart and NOT some unknown mechanical bad joo-joo failure. Much better luck 4 you given your past head aches.

I have come to the realization that this is what comes with DIY high HP rotary tuning/building. Deal with it or go home.

Good luck with this build bro.

Cracked iron! Dayum, thats new territory for me. I'm more of a chipped seal and or completely missing seal guy :lol: But I hear ya, thanks for the kind words.

damnit joe, you are not aloud to blow anymore engines!! maybe when you put the NRS ceramics in that will be good luck for you and it will be a long laster!!(is that even a word?)

good to see you are too down about it. so what do you think caused it? no water at 20 psi?

Thats what I told the car when I put in the TECgt!! :) But like I said I'm alot happier about this type of failure then the previous ones. And on the note of the ceramics.......

I just measured up all my housings this morning that I'm using on the build (used, but almost new) and I found a couple of things thats making me lean away from playing my ceramic seal card. One housing has a *TINY* little sliver of a crack just starting around thespark plug boss....and the other housing has a nick in the compression section from the blown engine in florida last year. They will work fine (I've had both inside engines already) but I don't want to waste my ceraimc seal on a housing that won't bed into the seal fully. Apparently, thats what happens - the housings break into the seal, not the other way around like normally :lol:

And I don't currently have the bread for OEM housings so I think I'll just stick some more OEM seals back in this and save them for another build. This engine lasted a while on my shitty tuning and with a lot of BAD things happening to it. If I get the rest of the season out of another OEM seal engine with a solid tune - I'll be happy.

The failure I think was yes, mostly attributed to lack of water. I think though, that I damaged something when I got my car running at full boost/RPM when I got back from the road trip though. After that night of tuning I was driving back and noticed a little bit of a miss when cruising. I thought it was plugs (and they were shot.....) but they didn't make the miss go away. And after that, I'd ran it out at full song maybe half a dozen more times before it popped......maybe I'd cracked something, and then it completely fell out later on. But, lets count:

I tuned some (not much) boost aroudn here
We tuned all around the dragon
I tuned on the way to and from florida
Tuned once around here
Tuned twice around here (when I think I damaged something)

And you know what my tuning is like masin! *floors car, takes off, engine floods with 9.00:1AFR* Repeat, and the same happens, but this time 500rpm later :lol: I'd cleared it up about 90% around here, but still - thats alot of stress to put on the thing. There's probably 4 tanks of fuel used just hammering it trying to sort out the fuel......

With the water though it may have still been running - who knows. I can't fault my build though, I had sworn up and down that thing was blown 3 or 4 times before when all the fuel pump fuse crap went down.

[TitaniumTT]

Yea I was reading your thread yesterday and caught some wind of an overheat or something? I have no idea what it is, I think maybe if you're the type to never give up, life gets pissed off and throws all kinds of crap your way. But I'm sure you'd agree that rotary failures do not equal life failures - and in life I'm a very lucky man.

Yeah, the short story is I was @ the dyno until 9:30 Tuesday night before DGRR pounding the snot out of the motor when she had about 700 miles on her but pulling 18-19" of vac. Thursday morning @ 10:30 ... as in leave for DGRR in 2.5 hours I went for an emmisions test. Emmisions for non OBD-II cars in CT is a 25-30 mph roll. The jackass that did the test held her in 1st gear @ 6000rpm's+ for about 4+ minutes. They popped the turbo feed oil line which started the smoke, I jumped over the counter into the bays and started screaming to shut her down. Coolant and oil temps were >230 and hit about 260 from soaking. Now she pulls ~14" vac. Warped apex seal, flattened spring, damaged housing, who knows. She still breaks the 255/40 RT-615's loose in 2nd though.

After alot of screaming from the manager telling me there's something wrong with my car for it to overheat like that, and me explaining that on the highway my t-stat doesn't open and sits @ 170-175*, you assholes don't have a fan and closed the hood, calling the owner of the company and getting a few formal apologies, it's going through insurance and they owe me a new motor as far as I'm concerned.

So I got the car home, good friend came over to help out, the peeps I was caravaning with drove to my place. We repaired the oil line, flushed the coolant, changed the oil, replaced the water pump and got on the road for DGRR @ midnight... fun times. Oh, I hadn't slept the night before either so by the time I passed out @ 4:30 friday morning I had broken my record and gone 44.5 hours strait with no sleep.. woot! /jack

So yeah, bad joo-joo I guess and life keeps throwing up blocks and we just keep charging through them.

And you shall see pics of the carnage for sure. Just have to get at 'er...

Please do, I'm kinda curious as to what actually failed. One thing that I don't like about the water or alky injection systems is that they are totally independant of the main EMS. Is there anyway to have a switched input with the Tec? What I'm thinking is a switch that's basically high/low boost settings. Low boost = no water. High boost = water. And then have an output from the Tec control the water injection. This way you can run the maps two different ways and the Tec is always in charge of everything. Boost control outside of the EMS is somthing else that kinda doesn't give me warm and fuzzy feelings but at least that is something that can be managed with proper tuning.

Make sense? I'm whooped and not sure if this is logical.

As far as Laptops, I just bought today a new Toshiba from BestBuy for $400 soley for the 7. I was sick and tired of the Dell randomly shutting itself off and for $400 to end a headache, it's worth it. The last time it shut off I was about to turn the "ignition switch" off VIA the Motec. Had I done that and then the laptop shit the bed.... I would've had to move my desktop into the garage for the sole purpose of turning the "ignition switch" back on. Now I can't get online to DL all the programs that I need :rofl:

[classicauto]

Carnage carnage carnage.

OK so...I removed the engine + tore it down on monday. I found alot of neat things. Firstly, this guy.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5550&stc=1&d=1242828460

I believe this is the what happened the night I finished tuning with the WI off. From what I can tell, this break was the miss I could feel in the engine afterwards. It still pulled great vac, and ran well with even (sounding...) pulses while cranking. Obviously it was doing SOME sealing as all the pieces were there, but there is evidence inside the break of combustion passing between my fancy new 3 piece design.

Here's another expanded view of it:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5551&stc=1&d=1242828643

Then there was the actual broken seal that caused a pile of damage.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5552&stc=1&d=1242828749

Thats one of the best housing fragging's of mine yet.

There was also a chunk of seal wedged in the one remaining apex seal on that rotor. But some did escape as my T04-R's turbine is a notchey version of its former self.

Also of interest:

This engine was a jspec I tore down, and refreshed. The engine had an easy life before as there was no evidence of anyone ever actually throttling the car. So much carbon that it had almost zero compression, but only because every seal was bunged up. As such, there was alot of weird browinish staining on the housings from combustion hanging aroudn where it shouldn't - and all those marks have cleared up now. There was also strange marks around the spark plug boss's (not the typical line/stain) that have lessened, but are still there only in a more "typical" fashion then before, I'm unsure how well the jacket mod has helped.

Also, there is pretty well zero compression getting by my first side seal fitting job, they look minty fresh!

My EGR weld-shut job has also stood up well, although some gases are still reaching the port under the exhaust port as there is a small amount of soot in there. I'll check out what else needs to be plugged.

So, another rotor, another housing, and a few apex's and this baby will be rocking again....two more weeks tops. Busy with house construction ATM :)

[dregg100]

that is deffinately an interesting break. i love that you stay so positive through all of this. i guess its a chance for you to learn from your mistakes and improve on them. what kind of seals are you using?

[classicauto]

Thanks buddy, gotta stay positive. It'll work this time, plus if my memory is correct, this will be lucky number 7! So the power of 7 will be with it :lol:

I'm running OEM's. As I posted above, they'll be going back in (un broken of course) because my mint used housings didn't meet the specs needed for the ceramics and I don't want to use them without getting the full benefit. Plus, if (sorry............WHEN) this one runs well on Logan's tune, I'll feel alot less weary about sticking $1300 seals inside it :)

And yes definetly a way to improve. Always room for that in my books

[FC3S Murray]

crazy seal break!

Well good luck kind sir and get that bitch back together.

[classicauto]

Thanks buddy!

I won't need the luck with it going back together, but sure could use it when its strapped on the dyno dynamics at 20psi!!!?!?! :lol:

[stylEmon]

Sucks that you had to pull the motor apart so soon. Either building rotaries really is tough, or we are ALL cursed for mod'ing them.

After I got my car running well on the stock turbo, my side seals began to "shave" off a little. It seems that I got a bad batch of side seals and oil was burning through. This was probably 3000 miles into the new motor.

So it came apart. I had the new seals treated with this special treatment that strengthens them and fills in all the inconsistencies in the metal. Then put the motor back together.

Seems like there are always serious bumps in the road for us guys trying to go all out.

Glad to see your keeping with it.

[Barry Bordes]

Classic, sorry to hear of your engine loss.

Do you have pictures of the housing at the spark plugs area? Which housing cooling mods did you do?

Barry

[classicauto]

Barry, I'll get some pics for you :)

[classicauto]

Here's the one housing that got re-used after the failure. Although its been cleaned up in this pic, you can still see a bit of the marks/swelling thats happened to it.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5646&stc=1&d=1244604401

same housing, different view showing the waterjacket mods I did (bulb head dremel on a drill press and lots of time :) )
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5647&stc=1&d=1244604401


Heres the housing that contained the blast :) It is untouched, exactly as it came out of the engine.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5648&stc=1&d=1244604401

We see the typical sort of marks but nothing drastic, neither housing has any cracking in the boss area at least.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5649&stc=1&d=1244604401

Barry do these look typical for an engine that lived on the highway, and @20psi all its life?

As for the weird little "hotspot" staining that shows up all around the area, I have to mention that these housings had alot of those on them before I used them. They were very nice condition housings from a j-spec that was FULL of carbon, and low compression because of it. But the housings had funny stains all over the plae inside the (I presume) from lack of apex seals sealing against the housing due them being stuck in the rotor slots with carbon.

Most of that has gone away (95%) but what remains now is only at the spark boss area. They can't be felt, but they are visible.


BTW engine is back together, and the car runs well. Seems to really like the S4 rotors ;) Low comp might give me a little more flexibility.

[TitaniumTT]

Excellent pics Joe. I'm wondering if there is some way to rig a failsafe in the Tec? Something that either cuts ignition or rev limits you to 2-3000rpm. I'm working on getting that setup in the Motec where if the low sump/2-stroke warning goes off the rev limit drops significantly.

Looks like you won this rebuild race. What are we now? Tied @ 1 a piece :rofl:

Which S4 rotors are you running? TII or N/A? I've got a nice set of S4 n/a's available if you want some backups. You're only as good as your backup. :lol:

[classicauto]

Hey brian, tied 1 all! :)

The rotors are S4 TII's...went with the whole assembly (obviously...) as when I spec'd the remaining rotor, and the replacement (S5 TII's) I found 2 of three slots on each that were just not quite up to par.

what's the compression on S4 N/A's again? 8.7?

OH forgot to mention.....

In this engine, there is one housing with jacket mods, and one without. This should provide a decent back to back to assess the effectiveness of the mod without the costly embedded temp probes that mazda used in the studies :) The rear is modded, front is stock.

Only other relavent cooling mod on this engine that was present before and still now is the Mazmart Remedy waterpump + pineapple racing idler pulley.....

[dregg100]

hey man you cant take pics 2 years in the past! i call BS!!!


glad to hear you got the car back together.

[classicauto]

:) You know me and my time machine, we're real tight!

My camera display's broken so I can't:

See what I'm photog'in
Adjust any menu options (like dates :lol:)
preview pics so i just atke lots of them

:)

[classicauto]

But not where you'd expect it.

In fact, in the very last place, in the very last situation you'd expect it to.

Arrived at Defined. Changed the wastegate spring to a 10psi unit.

Attached the dyno dyanmics to the beast, got her running, started tuning.

15 minutes in, cars sitting there **IDLING** transmission in **NEUTRAL**

All of a sudden we hear this 'ping' sound and the car stalls. Logan goes to restart it, and puts the clutch in. Fires right up. Lets out the clutch, stalls

The transmission is now internally fused in fifth gear :lol: You can shift it, but it does nothing :rofl:

swapped in one they had in storage, just got back now. We'll pick up where we left off tomorrow :)

seriously bro is this somekinda test of wills, balls, or wallet size? feck :lol:

[TitaniumTT]

FC = Fucking Cars :banghead:

That has to be the wierdest oddest failure that I have ever heard of........ seriously Joe, were you some sort of deranged degenerate that would sneak into peoples bedrooms and pee in thier ear while they sleep, then drug and rape millions of virgins while insulting every race, ethnicity, minority, person other than yourself while at the same time selling the tears of your victims as vitamin water to unsuspecting yuppies while ruining their lives and infecting the elderly with AIDS? I can't think of any other reason for your luck.... seriously dude?

Crack the tranny open. I wanna see!

[classicauto]

Well, i'd love to crack the trans open and see what got botched, but....

I picked up an engine (comitatus on the other forum, HBP plates, both front and rear thick casting, housings, rotors seals etc) so thats occupying my hatch along with my clothes and some tools....

So I don't have any room to haul it home, so its staying with Logan.

I'm going to bet that a the #5 shift fork is probablhy jammed though....

However, see I installed a new Mtrix short shirter when I put in that new tranny, and having never tried it on another tranny, I didn't know how it felt. Trans shifted *OK* smooth etc, but 5th was sometimes tough to engage, and sometimes reverse was also tough. Masin can comment on the feel of the tranny, he's driven my car. I didn't think there was anything majorly wrong thouhg.

But after trying out the car with this low mileage trans (came from logans dad, he pulled it from a 35,000mile TII that had some kind of body damage?) it shifts *MUCH* better. Of course, i won't get too complacent haha


anyways, today we made out GREAT. car ran like a top. Makes about 270hwp on wastegate srping (10psi) and boy is it a rocket even at that. 13psi= about 340whp........but wer'e still working the higher boost settings out. Tomorrow we'll clean up a couple spots I found that were rough on the way back to the hotel, and finish up the 14-15psi setting, and shoot for kill mode @ 20psi! :):)

As far as the power (will post graphs later) Its a little low, sure. But you know what? I really don't give flying pig fuck haha. Car feels strong, hauls ass, and runs like a swiss watch. Logan's got everything nice and conservative, I couldn't ask for anything more. But we'll see what happens when the turbo actually starts to breathe (over 15psi) so I may just hit that 400 mark yet.

OH AND:

4000rpm on wastegate = 180whp :)
Full boost by 4000-4200..........*near* stock porting, S4 rotors, and a 1.00 divided hotside on the T04-R. Might seem laggy to you brian - Mr. Spoolin :) - but very acceptable, and much better then most people on the intrawebz will tell you it is ;)

w00t for LONG black patches, and smiles from ear to ear!

[need RX7]

Glad it's working out for you man. Sounds like fun :driving:.

[classicauto]

wastegate pressure 10psi
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5679&stc=1&d=1245005682

low boost 14psi
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5680&stc=1&d=1245005682

high boost 19psi
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5681&stc=1&d=1245005682

we cleaned up the two lower boost settings today and were able to get it much more dialed in. Yesterday @270whp the car was inside the garage due to weeather and choking on its own fumes. Tuning outside today got everything alot more dialed in, runs like a champ! The 410hp run was a little too much for the clutch though and slipped which is why its all broken up and so close to the other run. I'll have to stay off the +15psi until I can afford a better clutch, but I'd like to destroy this one first since I'll be able to now finally :drool5: :)

Have to say Im very impressed with Defined autoworks. Given also that we only had a few runs at the higher psi logan couldn't be sure its 100% up there, so when the day comes i'm tired of what I have and I toss in the 6 puck i'll be sure to have him touch it up despite the distance - well worth the travel, at least for me as an electromotive guy who knows enough to say its worth a real pro figuring out ;)

[TitaniumTT]

4000rpm on wastegate = 180whp :)
Full boost by 4000-4200..........*near* stock porting, S4 rotors, and a 1.00 divided hotside on the T04-R. Might seem laggy to you brian - Mr. Spoolin :) - but very acceptable, and much better then most people on the intrawebz will tell you it is ;)

w00t for LONG black patches, and smiles from ear to ear!

:rofl: Check over my Avatar :001_005:

Nicely nicely done Joe. Awesome numbers, despite how hig in the revs you need to be ;) I should be on the dyno wednesday in non-sequential..... I'll post some graphs.... I think I was right around that too.

So what are the new plans for Comi's old motor? I thought he lost a housing and a rotor the last time it went loose?

As far as the clutch goes, what are you running now, and what are you looking to get? I gotta tell ya, I love my exedy twin disc

Can't wait to see some graphs from kill mode. What are you going to do about the meth/water??


w00t for LONG black patches, and smiles from ear to ear!

Nicely said ;)

[classicauto]

Kill mode graph is up - 410whp :)

Boost hits a little slower getting up to 19, its there by 4200. On wastegate its there by about 3700rpm.

My clutch now is an ACT heavy duty with street disc. Drives like stock. But I think though that because I didn't have this S4 flywheel machined, I'm breaking up near the top. It held 330ft/lbs last year on the mustang dyno....so boo for oversight.

I'd love to go with a twin, but it might be a while before I get the funds for it. Thats the plan though as - really - you can't beat a twin. Hold a bazillion foot/lbs with a pedal slightly heavier then now? Sign me up.


As for the WI - its on. I just left it on the whole time. Spraying 375cc/min now. Starts aroudn 5psi. Keeps AIT nice a calm, you basically never see it rise up once you get into boost no matter how long you pull on it. Obviously, depends on ambient temp as far as where that point is, but its usually about 5-8C above.

As for Luke's old engine, I'm going to be using bits and piece here and there. His housings are actually OK, one has a tiny mark that won't effect much, the other is minty. The rotors will likely be milled to 3mm for use with the ceramic seals, and the whole rotating assembly will actually be used for that engine. He has new rotor bearings, stat gear bearings etc so that stuff is good.

The irons are gems for sure, but I don't know if I'll use them in this car. I've had a HBP before, its great and all, but I like my streetports.

I honestly don't know where those will end up - but they are FLAWLESS, and both front and rear are the thick casting units.

[EJayCe996]

Hahaha, I was just looking at some pics on facebook BDC had commented on in an album and began to browse through this photo album and thought to myself "All this.... seems very familiar," and then I read about the slipping clutch and going 6 puck and a T04-R and then....... (hur hur dur!) this HAS to be classicauto :rofl:

[FC3S Murray]

OUTSTANDING MAN!! I am very happy for you and only wish problem free times for a very long time.

[dregg100]

yay!!!

[classicauto]

Hahaha, I was just looking at some pics on facebook BDC had commented on in an album and began to browse through this photo album and thought to myself "All this.... seems very familiar," and then I read about the slipping clutch and going 6 puck and a T04-R and then....... (hur hur dur!) this HAS to be classicauto :rofl:

LOL feel free to add me, I ahve a bunch of friends on there from the forum :)

OUTSTANDING MAN!! I am very happy for you and only wish problem free times for a very long time.

thanks bro, me toO!!! :lol:

yay!!!

yay indeed! soo much fun scooting around in this thing.

First few times I did a 2nd-4th pull I would let off and be all paranoid about little sounds etc. thinking i've popped another engine :lol: but the thign just keeps tickin'. Not to get too far ahead tho, its only been a few days haha

can't wait for updates on your monster!

[FC3S Murray]

I feel you about the paranoia with all those interesting sounds you "think" you hear while redlining. My asshole is always the size of a decimal point at redline until I start to see some safe pattern with my data logs. :)

[TitaniumTT]

Kill mode graph is up - 410whp :)

Boost hits a little slower getting up to 19, its there by 4200. On wastegate its there by about 3700rpm.

Nicely done! I likey.... I'll give you the full story in my build thread so I don't jack..... we accidentally hit my kill mode today and she made 346 RWHP @ 4800 RPM, yes, 4800 RPM............ then we ran out of fuel... a few spikes to 20psi too which scared the living crap out of me.

My clutch now is an ACT heavy duty with street disc. Drives like stock. But I think though that because I didn't have this S4 flywheel machined, I'm breaking up near the top. It held 330ft/lbs last year on the mustang dyno....so boo for oversight.

I'd love to go with a twin, but it might be a while before I get the funds for it. Thats the plan though as - really - you can't beat a twin. Hold a bazillion foot/lbs with a pedal slightly heavier then now? Sign me up.

Yeah, me loves me twin.... I just don't want to know what it's going to cost when it's time to repace the disc's :rofl: The disc's are fairly cheap, it's the machining of the 4 surfaces (plus the lands) that are going to suck large moose balls.... like canadian moose balls. Not those pussy things we have down here ;)


As for the WI - its on. I just left it on the whole time. Spraying 375cc/min now. Starts aroudn 5psi. Keeps AIT nice a calm, you basically never see it rise up once you get into boost no matter how long you pull on it. Obviously, depends on ambient temp as far as where that point is, but its usually about 5-8C above.

Very cool and yes, pun intended. I need to figure out a way to log ambient temps. My AIT's seem to hover around 5-10*F above ambient.... unless I shut her down and don't pop the hood, then she soaks, and soaks bad.

As for Luke's old engine, I'm going to be using bits and piece here and there. His housings are actually OK, one has a tiny mark that won't effect much, the other is minty. The rotors will likely be milled to 3mm for use with the ceramic seals, and the whole rotating assembly will actually be used for that engine. He has new rotor bearings, stat gear bearings etc so that stuff is good.

The irons are gems for sure, but I don't know if I'll use them in this car. I've had a HBP before, its great and all, but I like my streetports.

I honestly don't know where those will end up - but they are FLAWLESS, and both front and rear are the thick casting units.

Nice score. I'm thinking kinda along the same lines as you I'm sure, I kept my old irons and plan on having them ported - mildly, lapped, and re-nitrated then mayber ceremet coated and use them along with some new housings for the next motor. I think the primaries on mine now are a little too large. The idle suffers some. Trying to work it out with the software but I like mild porting as well