A little refresh/save done my way! AND I LIKE PICS!!! [Archive]

proz07

02-20-2009, 07:59 PM

Hey guys ive been debating if i wanted one of these but here goes.

technically this is my 3rd rx7 and 2nd FD "technically" ill show ya why.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4382&stc=1&d=1235175610
i first had an FC that i traded to a friend straight up for a front end collision 93 FD that i was going to rebuild in my cheaper days unfortunatly after i was buying parts for it i realized how bad it really was and would never be more than a pieced together track car (the pan was rippled to the rear bins). ultimatly i didnt want that so i started searching for a roller or the like.

Found one in arizona so i had to ship but for a fantastic price i couldnt pass it up. The body straight, 131k on the clock, with a new mazda reman that "never started", new engine wiring harness, walbro fuel pump, act prolite flywheel w/ 6puck solid hub. all in all it sounded pretty nice. except the "never started" part with no compression on 2 faces of the front rotor.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4381&stc=1&d=1235175416

Well once i got the car it was time to see what was really wrong with it. First things first compression test showed front rotor low compression on one face none on the other 2. Well maybe it sat awhile and an apex got stuck, so i let it sit with MMO overnight. Still nothing so next step was to start removing the stock twins to get a good look see at the apex seals and thats where i started to see what went wrong. First thing the primary turbo comp wheel was chewed to hell, so looks like something else is in order in that area. Well once the turbos were off and i could actually see the deal i found the front rotor apexs destroyed, so thats it for that engine time to start ripping it out. and thats were i found a bunch of shaddy maintenance that took place on this car to ultimatly lead to the death of a brand new reman.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4383&stc=1&d=1235176606

I lost half my pictures somewhere but i got the engine out and tore down. It did look to be a new reman but looked like possibly a washer went through it or possibly detonated with the old crispy harness and thats why they got the new harness possibly but it was already blown? Thats my deduction from it though. In anycase i sourced a 0 mile rebuild that came with a bunch of acc parts turbos and a spare trans another fantastic deal so i got it. can never have too many extra parts.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4384&stc=1&d=1235177141

So i started to build up the new block after verifying 6 good wooshs and free play of the apex seals. first off was to put on my XM oil pan. and then start swapping over all the lines, racks and solenoids to the new motor. the goal was to get it running on the stock twins in sequential and start modding from there. The way i looked at it i could end up with a money pit that i wont get to drive for years while i finish it OR I can keep it simple stupid for now and get crazy later all the while enjoying the car. i went with the later.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4385&stc=1&d=1235178073

proz07

02-20-2009, 08:00 PM

So being i had a new engine wiring harness and the ALT harness was pretty crispy and spliced i picked a new one of those up too care of RAY at MALLOY. I also had my injectors sent out to WITCHHUNTER forflow testing and cleaning. Reason for doing this is as i was searching forums seeing what goes wrong these are all the major players that for some reason people cheap out on BUT WILL SPEND HUNDREDS on shinny parts. i guess if it dosent run it should look good when its in your garage?
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4393&stc=1&d=1235265638

ok so here's the car ready for its new heart. yes i probably could and should have cleaned it when i had the chance here, but i was on a time table of sorts so it didnt happen.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4392&stc=1&d=1235265638

and with the help of a friend of mine i got it in and all hooked up. did a cold comp test and put a little MMO in the chambers to help compression for first start. Here it sits ready for the first start.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4391&stc=1&d=1235180556

Did the prestart ritual of new premix gas, prime the fuel system while checking for oil press during cranking. all looked good didnt see any leaks yet all was good to go... AND first crank started right up and of course smoked like a banshee. Once i got a couple heat cycles in it and all looked good took it for a little roll up the street and back. This is where i noticed a FUEL smell, and you guessed it the FPD was leaking so that shut it down till a new one came in and i changed it out. hurray problemone out of the way, but i noticed a rather loud tick tick tick noise coming from ??????? i had no idea till i happened to turn the crank over by hand and heard it again. WTF the flywheel was LOOSE!!!!!! I never checked it cause it was already on the keg when i got it. :banghead: WARNING: always check every nut and bolt dont assume. soo......out came the just the trans this time. (much easier than i thoughtit was gonna be)

fortunatly for me no damage was done to the key way or key so all i had to do was reinstall and seal flywheel nut.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4390&stc=1&d=1235180372

2nd problem solved without insident. :001_005: and then started the 1500 mile break in wich was ver hard to keep out of boost i will say. But as i got farther and farther on my break in drives i stopped by work one day and once parked the coolant would overflow. It would not do this while driving only once parked?????? not sure what the deal was with it so... i did the chanpagne test and it failed. oh great now im going to need to pull and restack the engine.:cuss:

Since im not one to do unnessesary work without a definat reason there was one last thing to do before pulling the engine and that was check the sealing of the keg with a special tool. pineapple racing i believe makes one but i have the ability and time to do one with all neccessary parts laying around so this is the outcome.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4394&stc=1&d=1235181848

proz07

02-20-2009, 08:00 PM

and here it is installed. This is where i found the coolant drain plug loose! damnit the only 2 things i didnt check came back to bite me in the ass. Once it was tightened and my tool installed ops check GOOD.:hurray:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4395&stc=1&d=1235182159

once again on to finish breakin mileage. at this point it was about 6-7 hundred into it so time to give it more RPM to 6k and a couple pounds of boost 3-5max. This is where i started having problems with the sequential system. So long story short i believe i had every single seq boost problem on the forums and still couldnt get it t work right. I mean i checked everything replaced some solenoids re route vac lines so on and so forth. Now i planned on going single later anyway so... out with all the seq for poor man non-seq. hurray much simpler works as advertised. This was at about 850-9 mileage and i was sick of working on it and wanted boost and it to work.

in my book my break in was done at that point so once i made a HOME DEPOT manual boost controller to mantain 10 PSI i was in it to win it!

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

up to this point it has all been to make my newly aquired FD run in a stock fashion.

Now its on to start making it MY OWN performing road car.

TRANS BRACE:

First things first i was missing the 3rd gear shift as for some reason the trans tail shaft was flexing quit a bit. So the fix I decided to use was a transmision brace that i made being i had the material and ability. once installed it made a WORLD of difference in drivability, especially running an ACT solid 6-puck.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4417&stc=1&d=1235265977
EXHAUST:

Of course i wanted to do an exhaust as i was still running a stock cat and some redneck catback. I then decided to do a 4" setup although i knew it would be loud i did not know how loud. i picked up some 4" bends and started running it from the 3" twins downpipe by necking it up to a 4" v-band.
then ran it back to a magnaflow 4" oval race muffler to a single 4"inlet dual 3" outlet flowmaster super 50 hd. Reason being i still wanted a slightly covert twin exit at the rear yet still be able to flow. at this time i picked up a banzia/pineapple rear diff brace(the one that will clear a 4" pipe) and installed it being i was there already.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4418&stc=1&d=1235266101
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4419&stc=1&d=1235266266
TWINS:

Now that i had a rather free flowing exhaust i was experiencing boost creap as the stock wastegate was not flowing enough. I removed and disassembled then to port the wastegate unfortunatly my air compressor istoo small to run my die grinder so i ended up doing it with a dremmel. i dont have any pics of it but i opened it up to the outer edges of the flapper door and it know maintains boost perfectly with the large exhaust.

proz07

02-20-2009, 09:17 PM

Well i decided to enjoy the car for the next 2 weeks till i was deployed, I had essentially gotten to a good stopping point on the car till I returned. Basically i was exactly where i wanted to be with it till this year.

While driving the car i started to make a list of what was annoying me, rattles, noises, broke parts, ablity to drive consistently so on and so forth.

During this time my local ADVANCED AUTO store rented a dyno for the day at one of thier local car shows. It was free 3 runs if you could get in before like 6pm, there were a few cars in line but i figured if i dont get it no harm if i do itll be a free BASELINE dyno for me to go off of for later power mods. Turns out some people left early and i got to get on the dyno. I only got 1 decent pull unfortunatly because my cheap plumbing coupler started to blow half way through but still held 10psi to the end so it came out in the end good enough for a baseline.
heres the dyno and busted coupler.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4396&stc=1&d=1235193264
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4397&stc=1&d=1235193312

)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) )))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))( (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((( ((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((

THIS IS WHERE THE CAR SAT TILL 09'

I GUESS THIS IS WHERE THE BUILD PART STARTS.

THE LIST:

rattles
loose interior parts
tranny whine/grind all except 4th ????
hard to start with current cutch
LOUD NOISES EVERYWHERE

O.K. this all kinda is going to go together for one reason. THE CAR IS TIRING TO DRIVE IT ISNT AS ENJOYABLE AS IT NEEDS TO BE.

I have ordered EDEAD for the sound deadening department it is an equivalent to DYNOMAT from the reviews i read and is close to 1/4 the price. i hope it works as good as they say! So needless to say while i wait for the material to come in i am removing the interior to gain access to the bare metal where it needs to be attatched to. While doing this i am tightening. clipping, fixing interior panels parts and pieces to make everything fit correctly and not rattle once i reassembly it. As of right now everything up to removing the dash is done i will do that task tommorrow but this is how the car sits currently in my garage.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4399&stc=1&d=1235194416

During this whole process i will be relocating my battery to the passenger bin and adding a painless 7 cicuit harness to power all my non standard accessories. Such as my gauges and wideband i installed last year i didnt really like tapping into existing circuits so i will be rerunning the power to them through this fuse block. I hope to run the power wire after the dash and carpet is removed.

Summit brand battery relocation cable kit 2ga
Odyssey 925 batt
Painless 7 circuit fuse panel 3x constant 4x ACC
150amp c/b autozone brand

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4405&stc=1&d=1235194850

I will then mock up a battery, C/B, fuse block holding tray that will fit into the passenger bin without cutting out the entire bottom of the bin hopefully just enough for 3 mount posts if all goes right. I figure this will allow me to practice my tig welding in a not so critical area.

Dash out, now i think this is as far as i go till the EDEAD comes in that way i dont forget where everything goes when i put it back together. This is going to be a good time to clean out all the dust and debries in the air ducts.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4415&stc=1&d=1235261010

proz07

02-20-2009, 09:18 PM

i do hve a question though with the clutch pedal mount? Take a look and if you could check yours let me know if this is right? im going to look in the FSM see if i can find anything but if anyone can check that would be great.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4416&stc=1&d=1235261277

Well iv bee alot busier than i thought i was gonna be so im still working on sound deadening but before i did that i decided to change the clutch out from a solid 6-puck to a street modified ACT disk. i only changed the disk as the clutch was new and only has 2k miles on it practically new.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4712&stc=1&d=1237174030

I refilled the trans with REDLINE SHOCKPROOF HEAVY weight as the trans was grinding in everything but 4th assuming bearing noise but it was loud with royal purple. So hopefully this will quite it down with the rest of my "comfort" mods. THis stuff is one step away from grease it is THICK!!!
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4713&stc=1&d=1237174030
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4715&stc=1&d=1237174807

At this point i have around 20+ hrs in sound deadening time and much more to go. I'v been looking around and it seems im doing quite a bit more than most have done. So we will see how it turns out. As you can see in the red circle i also did the firewall as i already pulled he dash, I figured might as well do as much as i can so i dont have to do it later. Basicly do it right the first time and it comes out cheaper.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4714&stc=1&d=1237174030

proz07

02-20-2009, 09:18 PM

well been busy getting the carpet in and dash back in and connected, it takes a min when your doing it by yourself!

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4989&stc=1&d=1238823274

now before the rear bins go back in i needed to run the power cables for the battery relocation.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4992&stc=1&d=1238823274

well iv been researching how people would mount thier batteries in the rear bins and most of them i didnt like so i ended up making one with feet through the bin for mounting and a bracket for the painless 7 circuit fuse block.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4990&stc=1&d=1238823274

and here it is installed just need to get some more eyelets to redo the short run to the breaker as its only 4 gauge right now.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4991&stc=1&d=1238823274

i have also relocated where my WB was to the center consol, it still needs to be adjusted once i redo my exhaust and move the sensor location to give me more wire to put the lc-1 in a spot that wont hit anything.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4993&stc=1&d=1238823893

proz07

02-20-2009, 09:19 PM

UPDATE: well got the car driving again not finished by any means but driving to make me want to work on it more. the center console is in as well as the seats. just enough to drive.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5087&stc=1&d=1239580004

all in all the edead seems to be helping but i changed so much at one time there inst really any definate answer and i still need to do the rear of the car behind the bins where most noise is comng from anyway :icon_tup: . The car is now infinatly more enjoyable to drive with the new full face organic clutch disk and redline fluids in the trans quieted it WAY down very happy with it. in retrospect i will be more than willing to spend the money to get a stockish feeling clutch that will hold high power later on than suffer with a 6-puck!!

The F***'d clutch pedal has been fixed and can be seen here http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=6747

well my folks were visiting over the last week so i didnt really get to work to much on the beast but i wanted to atleast get something done today so i installed my TWEAK IT single turbo idler pulley. nice setup!

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5084&stc=1&d=1239579033

As you can see here the puley is slightly angled not much so ill fix it later but its from my mount tab on the water pump housing being F***'d but no biggy ill shim it out later.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5085&stc=1&d=1239579033

proz07

10-02-2009, 09:23 PM

Well after a coupe bearings in the idler pulley TWEAKIT racing changed to the original idlers bearing and all is good now very glad that they stand behind thier work very well i went through 4 bearings free of charge..:icon_tup:

As of now finishing the interior is a slow crawl when i get around to it but i decided to quite this car down even more i will be building a 3" inch exhaust to replace the 4" to quite it down and give it more of the 2-stroke brap than the 4" i have now. till then though i have made a quite 3" insert and it works pretty good but kinda nulls the point of a 4" exhaust whixh is why im gonna build a 3" later

heres the 3" silencer

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6338&stc=1&d=1254536210
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6339&stc=1&d=1254536210

And once again a little inteior fixing..... my glove box handle was broke off but all the tabs and everything in the box is still good and its a 94 so i can take it apart. i made an aluminum handle which works very good shouldnt have to worry about it breaking either :) i might give it a finish eventually but you cant see it installed anyway and it works so i will leave it as is for now

heres the handle

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6340&stc=1&d=1254536557

connected
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6341&stc=1&d=1254536557

might finish it later

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6342&stc=1&d=1254536557

proz07

10-02-2009, 09:37 PM

now some of you may have seen the Banzia racing 3rotor on the 7club well i finally saw an intercooler setup i liked and have decided to copy it somewhat. I already had a percision 750hp universal intercooler 24x10.5x3.5 and then went ahead and picked up a koyo N-flow from Works Connection for about 300 on sale very nice price for a very nice triple pass radiator :001_005:

now im deploying next week and for some reason got it in my head to try and complete it before then soo.... i started moving the relay box to under the front core support worked out pretty nice although it is upside down i may turn it over once i get back but for now and the fact i dont drive in the rain i think itll be fine for now this way.

heres how iv mounted it as i know others may want to know how to move it out of the way. i know i did and couldnt find any real how to on it.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6343&stc=1&d=1254537425

see its now flush allowing close install of the radiator.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6344&stc=1&d=1254537425

And here is a few of how im mounting the intercooler like the greddy front mount only with endtank inlet outlets running right under the frame rails just around the koyo. this is my first intercooler modification so it could be better but itll work for now i think...i hope :o11:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6345&stc=1&d=1254537822

radiator vertically mounted

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6346&stc=1&d=1254537822

under the car it is slightly lower than the intercooler but i can raise it if need be later but it wont be the first thing to hit if anything happens so not to worried about it.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6347&stc=1&d=1254537822

Whizbang

10-03-2009, 12:51 AM

nice work man! Where are you deploying to?

proz07

10-03-2009, 08:36 AM

oh ya know just the 4th trip to iraq... i saw you joined awhile back how do ya like it so far?

z

Whizbang

10-03-2009, 08:39 AM

cant complain aside from having a long wait time to complete the training. Hoping to get out of Mississippi come December and then i get PCS'ed to Idaho for quite some time.

JShiz

10-03-2009, 03:43 PM

Good build. I like your battery relocation. I may copy it later on.

proz07

10-04-2009, 10:19 AM

well continueing with the install i have made a turn down elbow off an extra y-pipe rather than run through the crappy stock piping. i didnt use a 180 turn as then i wouldnt have enough to finish it up today so i did a sectional bend...those btw are very time consuming and if ya had to pay for it just buy an extra bend. also the relief pipe i cut off and welded over the holes for the charge control valve only cause i can :seeya: .

heres that i had other pics while building but for some reason my camera didnt save them once i pulled the sd-card 14pics :banghead:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6350&stc=1&d=1254669374

and to get this done i had the my GF help a bit and strip shorten/lengthen and rewrap the wiring for the fans and if my right fan still had the plug on it it would look close to OEM :001_005: those pics didnt come out heres the final. as well as reclocking the top radiator connection to work better. the universal pipe is going to be temp till i get back in feb and then i will get some 1.5" pipe to run it better

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6351&stc=1&d=1254669374

Phoenix7

10-04-2009, 02:06 PM

proz07

10-04-2009, 07:25 PM

That's a nice build, love how you have pics along the way.

The rad is low, like you said....maybe into some skid plate or something thick so minimize any impact with rocks and little things on the road?

ya i'll see how low it is once the car is sitting level again i can even raise it another inch i believe before it hits the hood so there's an option but rough measurements put it above at least the front lip about an inch. i figure i may be able to build the "skid plate" into the undertray when i make it.

z

today i spent a little time running the piping for the intercooler and heres what i ended up with

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6353&stc=1&d=1254714278

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6354&stc=1&d=1254714278

i do have however a small issue with the greddy elbow as the size of the connection was for stock size of 2.75" and the inside diameter of just over 2.25" ish anyway what do most people do with this im thinking of cuting that section off and forcing the 3" coupler over the remaining part as its closer to the 3" any help?

heres what im talking about note the inside ridge of the greddy elbow

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6355&stc=1&d=1254714278

TitaniumTT

10-04-2009, 11:26 PM

I bet you'll be able to get that 2.75" coupler on the 3" piping.

Nice build buy the way!

Are you using both the Charge Relief Valve and the stock BOV's as BOV's?

proz07

10-05-2009, 01:11 AM

I bet you'll be able to get that 2.75" coupler on the 3" piping.

Nice build buy the way!

Are you using both the Charge Relief Valve and the stock BOV's as BOV's?

yes i am they work the same why not that and i got the HKS intake piping kit with the car and it has the return fitting for both. Besides it will all be changed out when i get back in feb. i have a t66 setup waiting to go in with tial 50mm bov and tial i think it was 44mm wastegate. when i get that on ill be shooting for 20psi w/ water injection 15psi pump HP wise whatever happens happens....

z

proz07

10-07-2009, 03:08 AM

well with my concern about the greddy elbows necked down size i have since cut off the ridge and smoothed out the cut to make it 1/4 inch closer to the 3" piping dia i will get it ported out correctly when i take in my vsessive LIM to get portmatched at the same time later down the road.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6371&stc=1&d=1254902729

and now as for the concern and issue with lower radiator mounts and 'skid plate' for it as it appears to hang low even though the intercooler is lower. heres the bracket ive come up with it will also have tabs welded on for an A/C condenser mount once i fab a kit for it. for mounting the power steering cooler i most likely will mount tabs off the intercooler. but thats for tomorrow

heres the lower radiator mount bracket and rock guard all in one it really solidly mounts the radiator just like it needs to be and will provide excelent mounting for both the a/c mounts and undertray later on when i fab those up

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6372&stc=1&d=1254902729

and heres a few of how it looks mounted....

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6373&stc=1&d=1254902729

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6374&stc=1&d=1254902729

please constructive critisizim may give me better ideas....

z

also iv trimmed the front bumper for the front mount so its ready to go back on once eveything is fabbed..... a couple small brackets need to be made still an extension for the intercooler to greddy elbow now that its beeen modded and mounting the power steering cooler line setup and putting the car back together i should be driving it again tomorrow afternoon if all goes right see how this new cooling setup works out :driving:

proz07

10-08-2009, 11:49 PM

well finishing up the last little tid bits i didnt want to have to spend any money on something as trivial as a power steering fluid cooler so i took the old setup cut and rbent some of it and tigged 2 pieces together to end up with a rather oem looking and mounting piece if i do say wo myself.

heres what i ended up with rebent and welded up
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6383&stc=1&d=1255063751

and here it is installed just behind the intercooler and mounted using stock mounts rebent as well the other side looks about the same fyi

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6384&stc=1&d=1255063751

and i didnt order any 1.5" aluminum bends for the radiator pipes so once again i had to find something temp... ran by the local perfomance exhaust shop and they hooked me up with a nice little 45deg bend FREEBIE :001_005:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6385&stc=1&d=1255063751

so once everything was connected and the bumper reinstalled and some last minute minor trimming of some of the splash shields from this pic you can see how the radiator is definatly not too low

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6387&stc=1&d=1255063751

and for anyone wondering about a percision intercooler check out those turbulators let me know how that compares to your ole ebay core :rofl: definatly cools very very well.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6386&stc=1&d=1255063751

proz07

10-09-2009, 12:05 AM

now that she has taken her maden voyage with the new setup i will say it cools VERY diferently than the stock setu that i did have before. niether of them had/have undertray ducting and i can say right now current setup cools slightly better 1-3 deg cooler till the fans kick on and with in 15ish seconds cooles the car right off and shuts fans down maintains temps better/faster yet not accaptable for what it has cost so far. So before you scream and lynch me i need ducting i know if i just happen to have some extra time in the next 2 days i might start but probably not till i get back... im sure the ducting will help imensly as you can see where all the air is going in my pics thus far. also to finish my cooling system of i will need som oil coolers which ill also get to when i get back which should definatly help the rad set up work wonders :icon_tup:

WORDS OF WARNING TO OTHERS!!!!! im currently running the base PFC map while i have been playing with idle, cruise, stumbles yadyada driving smoothness and A/F ratios. NOW as i did not shange anything but the intercooler setup i can tell you right now 10psi with this intercooler is not 10PSI on the stock intercooler same turbos... at full boost before i saw all the way down to <10.2 AFR wich is over safe so wasent to worried about it. CURRENTLY im seeing balls out 10psi AFR's of 11.5-.8 definatly better for power at this psi but if thats all ya change be weary as it may not fall into as good of a range as mine did for your modification always tune after changing ANY intake part!

so with out further adu heres how she looks now till i get back :driving:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6388&stc=1&d=1255064747

goahead let me know what ya think i aint scured

z :driving:

proz07

10-09-2009, 10:15 PM

a little update since i wasent happy with the cooling aspect of it yet but i hadent changed any fan settings so i went ahead and adjusted the fans down to 87c instead of 90c. And WOW this thing cools amazing even unducted with a FMIC i never saw anything above 86c tonight. cant wait o dual oil cooler it definatly will be ready for that t66 then.

now a little info fan #1 is just both fans on and fan #2 is the left fan kicking in overdrive? is that about right? im curious cause my right fan plug wasent there and i currently have the power(blue) going to the red in the car harness plug and the neg(black) going to black harness. now i threw a multimeter on the other 2 wires in the plug and when the fan runs one has about 3v and the other 8v any reason or are they just not used?

z

bbade

10-22-2009, 09:55 AM

Great build, be careful over there man.

Randy024

01-06-2010, 07:29 AM

Looks like somebody has been practicing with the TIG !!!

Looking for ward to seeing the rest of the build (and more dyno sheets)

proz07

03-20-2010, 02:09 PM

well i havent been as busy working on the car as i would like but then again if i was id run out of things to do or money. which is not on my list of things to do :001_005:

So iv changed my exhaust to a much better flowing cleaner install 3" setup. after realizing there is no way to make a 4" setup quiet EVER on an rx7 and the 3" will support power goals of 99% of us. so build pics of that as follows.

3" exhaust setup specs info.

409 stainlesssteel 3" tubing 6ft worth and i have 3ft or so leftover
only used 2 bends total 1x 90 and 1x 45 mandrel 409SS
2x v-band clamp setups for ease of install and service THEY ARE SOOOO NICE TO WORK WITH
1x 3x6" flex pipe for movment
1x dynomax bullet race muffler 24" i believe NOT SS unfortunatly fiberglass packing so i dont know how long itll last
1x magnaflow muffler dont know which one i had it laying around
1x SS wideband bung

i also have 100ft of exhaust wrap i have yet to put on as i think i want it a bit quieter BUT im not sure if the wrap will be enough or should add another dynomax or build my own full SS style from the old 4" setup then wrap it. take a look at the video it has the sound but dosent pick up the deep bass tone of it unforunatly.

I opted to weld it all up with 308SS .025 mig as i dont have a backpurg setup for my tig yet although i should have tried as the 110v mig i have definatly struggles with the SS it just needs more heat that a 220v system would give but oh well.

and for cuting the hole for the wideband i fired up my new plasma at lets just say it was worth it :001_005:

heres the pics ill get the video up soon.

heres what i ordered. it is WAYYYY to many bends i only used 2 but ill build the downpipe for my single out of some of this so hopefully ill be able to use the rest somewhere.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7591&stc=1&d=1269111660
heres the patient ready for operation
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7592&stc=1&d=1269111660
This is the old 4" i built notice the poor flowing midpipe. This setup is LOUD its not for me so im scrapping it and trying to recoup some cash selling the mufflers and v-bands. the only thing i did like about it for its size it didnt hang any lower than stock suspension parts. not an ideal setup but i learned ALOT from building it and that is what this project car is all about. so the new setup is much better designed.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7593&stc=1&d=1269111660
another old setup the catback section did flow really nice unlike the midpipe. notice the flowmaster :banghead: DONT use these on your rotary its not designed for this type of engine use it on your old muscle car or v8 truck not the rotary
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7594&stc=1&d=1269111660
and hers a shot of sections being built up and my welding and cutting setup used by this DIYer
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7595&stc=1&d=1269111660

proz07

03-20-2010, 02:17 PM

heres the dynomax bullet race muffler inside i was trying to get a shot of the packing but you cant really see it.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7596&stc=1&d=1269112481

and here is the completed 3" as it is on the car now i will be wrapping almost the entirething in header wrap once i decide if im going to add another bullet muffler to the midpipe or not

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7597&stc=1&d=1269112481

installed
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7598&stc=1&d=1269112481
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7599&stc=1&d=1269112481
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7600&stc=1&d=1269112481

and heres the quick video i made of it and a quick walk around.

http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab51/proz07/th_MVI_1801.jpg (http://s849.photobucket.com/albums/ab51/proz07/?action=view&current=MVI_1801.flv)

proz07

03-20-2010, 02:25 PM

and soon to come

1. install of the AQUAMIST HSF-3 AI system
2. rebuild of the suspension with tein s-tech and tokico illumina's bushings pillowballs steering rack boots & bushings
3. fender rolling if needed when my wheels come in
4. ducting for the radiator
5. swapping to AEM EMS and QD install to engine harness and wire reallocation for boost control extra injectors in prep for....
6. Single install t66 dual EGT excessive LIM 4x1000cc inj with stock primaries or possibly rx8 primaries.
7. HKS twin power
8. speakers head unit small 10" woofer and finish the dynomatting in the hatch and doors, retint windows and mole skin for the window seal.
9. kaaz 1.5 diff install
10. dual oil cooler setup with possible hardlines
11. fuel system upgrade with bosch 044 and intank surgetank

all i can think of right now

stay tunned

z

prrex4ever

03-25-2010, 08:22 PM

Looks good, you have skills.

proz07

03-25-2010, 09:51 PM

Looks good, you have skills.

only wish i had more time tools and money to go with it. :suspect:

z

proz07

05-01-2010, 09:43 AM

well little update. my DD ended up in the body shop for a couple days for a door ding. so i rocked the FD for a few days finding more refinements i need to take care of. the exhaust has a very nice rotary tone to it although i think its still a bit loud for my taste so it looks like ill be getting another bullet resonator/muffler installed and exhaust wrapping the mid-pipe.

BUT during the DD time my coolant temps started getting hotter i figured cause it was warming up BUT then it continued warmer making me look into any causes. NOT overheat hot but just warmer than it should for the cooling setup i have and fan temps. never got above 97c. turns out my fans were dieing. well i picked up some new fans off rx7club and apparently there are differences in the fan setups for different years im assuming although iv not seen any others like what i had stock.

left fan 4 wire right fan 2 wire single speed and they were counter rotating fans

the replacments i made sure i got
both fans 4 wire 2 speeds each for all my fan speeds i should have. and the fans both turn the same direction on these.

also a small little thing the fans housing/mounts were different too mine had wire clips for the wires the other new one didnt. but i swapped housings as the one i got had bolt holes clipped out.

NOW my coolant temps are exactly where i expected them to be even without ducting still. a bit of thrashing havent seen above 87 lol.

to round out the cooling system i got in the sakebomb dual oil cooler GB#2 and ill be getting those in about a week or so dual 25rows ohhhh yea!

ill also be installng the sakebomb HID projectors at the same time as the bumper will be off already.

and currently getting the suspension ready for final overhaul.

pics to come soon most likely this weekend as its raining all freaking weekend

z