RTEK Tuning?

[Max777]

Hey, so I am buying that RTEK from you guys, and I was wondering about tuning for it. Originally, I was going to try contacting Banzai Racing to tune it, but after a phonecall to them, I found out that they are not interested... bummer.

So, I called a guy named Dan, who I bought my short block from, and asked if he knew anyone that might have some interest. Ironically, he recomened Mr. Ludwig as the best guy in the area for something like this. I looked it up on the map, and I would be willing to drive the 4 hours over there for a tuning session. So this brings me to the most important point: what do you charge to tune an S5 N/A with the RTEK 2.0?

[C. Ludwig]

Doesn't take long with the Rtek. Can usually knock it out with an hour of dyno time. Dyno time is $150/hr for tuning labor an dyno use. We use a Dyno Dynamics dyno so if you have a number in your head that you think it should make based on what you've seen others achieve on Dynojets you'll be disappointed with what the DD tells you.

[Max777]

i dont really care about the HIGHEST HP, I care about how good and stable the tune is, how well it's suited for the car, better gas milage (because I heard stock, the N/A runs pig ritch)

Another thing I would like, is to tune it so I can get the map optimized for the modifications I've done to the car.


I have a few questions: Is the MAF removable with the RTEK? I left the VDI and 6pt plugs on the harness, and carefully simplified the rest of the emissions and OMP wiring, can I use the VDI signal to trigger an air pump to turn on and work the VDI vaccum?

Also, because the rods in the 6pt intake were seized, I took out the 6pt intake sleeves. Could you tune it so it would run better w/o them on there, or should I find a good and S5 LIM and drop in in there? ( I totally took out the rods on the stock one, and filled the holes btw)

PS: MY payment is sent, check your paypal! :D

[C. Ludwig]

Can do. The S5 does run rich under wide open throttle but the off throttle tune is near ideal. I wouldn't expect much increase in fuel mileage.

MAF is not removeable. It is still used. In my experience the VDI doesn't play much of a role in power one way or the other. A couple HP below 5000 RPM is all it's worth. If you have all the stock equipment in place to run it leave it there. The Rtek will control it just fine. If you've removed everything I would just lock it in the high RPM position.

Leave the 6-port sleeves out IMO. They hurt the top end power more than they help low end. You'll see 2-4 hp by removing the rods and sleeves on the top end. The rod and the piece in the sleeve that the rod engages to turn is the biggest part of the restriction/turbulence.

[Max777]

Thank you for the Tech support, it's really helpful so far!

About VDI: Will the VDI valve work fine if I just leave the vaccum diaphragm unconnected? Or is no vaccum for low end? I know it turns on at 5000 rpm, but what do I do to make sure it's in the proper place on the intake?

What I'm trying to say, is that if I dont make the vdi valve work again, wont it be in the "closed positon" and rob hi rpm power? or does it "close" at 5000 and up? I'm confused.


PS: It seems like the VDI valve of the middle intake is identical to the "roller ITB valve" setup where instead of pancake shaped butterfiles, you have a tubular roller that twists to open and close airflow.

[C. Ludwig]

Thank you for the Tech support, it's really helpful so far!

About VDI: Will the VDI valve work fine if I just leave the vaccum diaphragm unconnected? Or is no vaccum for low end? I know it turns on at 5000 rpm, but what do I do to make sure it's in the proper place on the intake?

What I'm trying to say, is that if I dont make the vdi valve work again, wont it be in the "closed positon" and rob hi rpm power? or does it "close" at 5000 and up? I'm confused.


PS: It seems like the VDI valve of the middle intake is identical to the "roller ITB valve" setup where instead of pancake shaped butterfiles, you have a tubular roller that twists to open and close airflow.


Honestly, I'd have to look at one to tell you which way is open and closed and I don't have an S5 manifold handy. Let me look through a manual and get back to you.

[Max777]

I have mine taken apart right now, I will post up some pictures...

[Max777]

Ok, here are some pictures:

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s123/Alpine61/Cars/My%20FC3C/DSCN4139.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s123/Alpine61/Cars/My%20FC3C/DSCN4140.jpg

This is the way the system is with the rotary valve in the "open" position after 5000 rpm.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s123/Alpine61/Cars/My%20FC3C/DSCN4141.jpg

And thanks for this:

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s123/Alpine61/Cars/My%20FC3C/DSCN4138.jpg

[C. Ludwig]

Had a chance to sit down and look at the VDI mechanism again. The actuator rod pushes out from the canister to engage the high RPM position and retracts for low RPM. Basically the solenoid vents pressure from the air pump at low RPM and closes at 5200 to pressurize the actuator and push the rod out. With the Rtek you have control over the point at which the solenoid closes. If all the hardware work I'd leave it there and use it. But if you want to lock it in the high RPM position rotate the valve fully counter-clockwise and safety wire it into position.

[Max777]

Well, my emssions are removed because all that stuff was pretty broke, dirty, and clogged up....

Do you think I will loose too much in the low end with no 6pt sleeves, and the vdi fully open? OR could you tune the rtek so that the car will be ok for slow driving at low rpm?

I'm a little worried about low end drivability.

[C. Ludwig]

The driveability won't suffer at all either way. As I've said before with the 6PI hardware removed you'll make more top end than with a working 6PI system. I feel the trade off is worth it. The changes you've made to the exhaust will more than make up for the elimination of the 6PI and VDI at low revs. IMO the best system is to remove the 6PI all together as you have and leave the VDI working. But the VDI is only worth a few hp at the lowest revs. Losing it isn't something I would lose sleep over.

It will be easy enough, once the car is on the dyno, to run the car with the VDI in both locations to see exactly what the differences are. If it turns out to be a gain you feel is necessary you can always make the system workable after the fact.