finally got my car running, got some bugs to work out.

[Max777]

Ok, so tonight my car miraculously started up, after about 7 months of work on it, and I can't be happier, so I want to start this thread to sort out any final little problems with it.

Ok, so as I said, the cluster and the wiper switch dont light up, but my headlights work, and the headlight switch does light up.

The BAC seems to be operating all the time with the engine off, but the key on.

My coolant is full, but my buzzer is working... I gounded it to be sure it's not the wire, and the noise went away, so I think it's the sensor itself?

I can get one at Rock auto for like $14, but it's only listed for 86 87 88 model years, so would it work on a 91? It looks the same from the pics at least.

Oh yeah, and my car idles at 2000rpm, i think i read somewhere that this is not all that uncommon when stuff is out of spec, so I'm going to try to adjust the tps to see if that helps, I got an analog DVOM so it should be good I hope.

:D

[SpooledupRacing]

the coolant buzzer is going off probably because u have an air pocket right at the top by the sensor..

this is common take a moment to get the car up to temp and bleed the cooling system properly..


Glad u got it to fire up..

[Max777]

Yeah, I'm really surprised that it fired up like it did, I thought I'd have to do a ot more adjustments to make it even run. I'm going to try adjusting timing, tps, idle, and my BAC to make it run better, but I really need some help to do all this, because this is my first rotary project.

PS: because my 6pt intake stuff was seized up, I had to remove all that crap, and JB weld the holes shut. It worked well, but I'm wondering if doing this would raise Idle because more air is entering the combustion chamber at idle?

[SpooledupRacing]

I would have just removed the 6pt sleeves and left it all open.. by sealing them off you just choked the motor in the higher RPM's

you want those 6 port openings open to flow more air above 3K

[Max777]

I took out the sleeves too, dont worry I'm not THAT stupid! :D I was talking about the holes in the intake manifold, not the block, lol. I took the rods and all that jazz out as well as the sleeves.

But the thing is, I still have the VDI valve in there, so I'm going to need to figure out how I'm going to get that opened or i still have the choking problem you described.

The thing is, I didn't WANT to remove the 6pt, i HAD to, so I'm keeping the VDI, just gotta figure out how I'm gonna make it open. I'm thinking to use the same method that rotary resurrection has on his website.

[Max777]

Yesterday I bolted up a temporary muffler to it, and secured the loose ground. I'm still trying to figure out why the car wont rev, and still idles at 2000 rpm and chokes itself when I try to rev it at all.

I had no leaks, everything is good, no bad smells...

[SpooledupRacing]

is your tps adjusted right?

[Max777]

Well, that's what I'm going to try to do today, i can't find the directions, I remember they were in an FAQ or something...

Ok, I found it: http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/TPS_Adjustment

I'll try that, see what happens, and report back.

[Max777]

Ok, so I could not figure out how to do the OHM meter thing properly with the OVM, (volt meter) and so I went to radio shack, and made the LED tps sensor thingy. I asjusted it that way, but the throttle body is being a bit sticky I think, so I might need to pull it off and reclean it a bit.

I fixed the coolant buzzer, it did have air bubbles in it, and the connection between sensor and wire was't that great.

anyway, the car fired up, and revved to almost 4k rpms, and then dropped, ran at 2.2~2.4k rpms, and then died after a bit of idling. The second day the car got running, it would at least keep idle, and warm up all the way, now on the 3rd day, it runs even worse! I did add 8oz of seafoam to the gas, of which I think there might have been only 5 gallons. My spark plugs which are brand new on trailing side got a liuttle of what looks like gas/ carbon mix on them, and they STINK really bad! (could it be the seafoam?)

I checked the compression, and it was way low, below 60 psi on the gauge, but this was on both faces, and I think the gauge is broken. I'm going to try again tomorrow with a different compression tester to see how it works out.


EDIT: here's some of the stuff I fixed up btw:

cleaned, and flow tested injectors at witchhunter (25 days before I got fuel in them, possible they are stricking?) I replaced o2 sensor, cleaned AIT sensor, the Oil pressure gauge is pegged all the way up, (I have an S5 car, and my friend has an S4 with one pegged down) removed emissions, new gaskets, complete removal of 6pt system except the VDI thing, new spark plug wires, new plugs, new water pump, etc. I put like somewhere between 1 to 2 thousand dollars into this car in parts.
The thing is, the car runs really rough, and my dad said it sounds like it might be missing a little, so I was thinking to adjust timing as well on it? Can i do that when the car will barely run and idles at 2000rpm?

God damn it, why does my car run like shit after all this time, money, and effort poured into it? Lol, I feel like a total newbie right now because I cant get it to work right, :D

EDIT: After reading the bottom of this: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/PROBLEMS/P1/ENGINE/leaksv.html

it says that the lower fuel injector grommets can leak. I think that witchhunter sent me the wrong gromets because the secondary injectors WERE a bit loose in their holes, so I wonder if that could contribute to the problem? and the grommets looked different too!

[Max777]

anyone? :)

[djmtsu]

If the grommets are not seating well enough, you get a vacuum leak.

The oil pressure sending unit might have taken a hit when you put the engine in. Mine pegged to the top when I put my motor in, then the actual gauge broke. So now I have an Autometer replacement. Check the resistor thingy that is down there where the bell housing and engine connect (below oil sending unit). That can cause weird issues.



Is the motor a rebuild?

[Max777]

no, the motor supposedly has about 90,000 to 100,000 miles. Resistor thingy? The same one that I had 2 left over of and couldnt figure out where they went?

[djmtsu]

Got a pic?

Its a little black box with a ring terminal sticking out of it.

[Max777]

yeah, i know what that is now.


umm, I just wanted to add, since I removed my AC, I took out the little harness that plugs into the body harness, and into a Relay off the car. I dont know why it would make the car run weird, but that's the story.

I'm going to try plugging that back in tomorrow, and see what happens. If that doesnt work, then I'm going to go grab some TB cleaner, cork gasket material, and 10mm ID hose to make a bit thicker grommets for the Fuel Injectors. I think I might have a vaccum leak or twenty, after all, at least I hope I do, lol.

[TehMonkay]

Shouldn't idle anywhere near that high if the idle screw is all the way in, did you remove the thermowax?

Is the afm connected? Have you tested it?

[Max777]

no i didn't remove the thermowax because of the whole "hold your foot down for 1 min before the car warms up thing. However, now I'm thinking of getting rid of it. Airflow meter IS connected, but no I haven't tested it.

As far as the idle screw, is that the big capped off screw on top of the TB? I read somewhere not to mess with those.... so i didnt want to touch it.

[Max777]

Ok, here's a theory: When I hooked up my FPR and MAP sensor, I used a T fitting, so both of them go off of one vaccum nipple, and since my 6 ports are removed, and the VDI is currently non operational (will install the tire pump thing later) iw was wondering that maybe they dont get the right amount of vaccum?

I dunno, but to me it seems like a possible add on to something else wrong.

Anyway, I'm going to tear the intake back apart, and redo some stuff, and put cork gasket where I just used RTV on the BAC, and VDI since their gaskets were torn, as well as ziptie all my vaccum lines, check for leaks in the oil injectors, and ETC.

I also think my o ring between the throttle body and plastic thing may possibly be leaking, so I'm going to temporarily put some cork there as well.

[NoDOHC]

with no vacuum leaks and stock ignition timing I could get my '86 to idle at about 300 rpm. My '91 will only go down to about 400 rpm with the idle screw all the way in (700 with 15 degree advance)

edit: If you get your ignition timing right, the car should rev ok when held flat on the floor (as long as AFM is functioning properly and TPS reads wide open). Vacuum leaks have little effect at WOT.

[Max777]

Well, it does seem to rev sort of ok... if I press the gas down harder, but if I just tap it a bit, then it goes to shit, i have to rev it really hard for it to go.. and I dont like that because I dont want to blow it up with it misfiring like it is too.

[SpooledupRacing]

if I just tap it a bit, then it goes to shit,


Deff sounds like a vac leak.

[Max777]

Well, I dicked around with it today... now it starts and revs to like 5,000 rpm, seems like I fubared the throttle body, lol.

Oh yeah, btw: I checked compression with another gauge, on a cold run, it was right below 90 so it looks like I got compression! :D

[Max777]

Well, shit... so I got the throttle body, put it in, and tried to start the car...

I thought it was just flooded, so I deflooded it, and tried again... still no go.

Then as I was looking for what was wrong, I saw that my leading coil was unplugged,doh!

(I got my turn signals in a few days ago, and when i was soldering them in place, I unplugged the coil wire so that the harness would be more acessible.

Then, I found that I left my fuel rail/map sensor vaccum disconnected as well... double doh!

So, I drained the FUCK out of the battery for nothing, put the thing on a fast charge, and tried again... still cranked slow as hell...

So, I'm gonna put the battery inside today because it's cold outside, and then complete charging it tomorrow...

I'm getting my wheel bearings pressed in tomorrow, so I will probably do all this shit after that gets done.

...shit, which reminds me... I gotta buy new seals...

Ah, the joys of owning an RX-7...:beatdeadhorse5: