Really noob question

[JShiz]

Ok. I was driving my FB(GSL SE) the other night. After i came to a stop, I couldn't put it back in gear (It was like trying to shift without using clutch). Then it popped back in gear and i was able to keep driving. Then i wanted to see if it was a fluke so when i got to my house, I tried to switch gears it started acting weird again. I parked it and looked under my hood and my clutch/brake fluid is starting to run low. I'm going to bleed it and refill it.

My question is, would there be anything else that could be going wrong? I searched on the 7 club and the only other thing it might be is my slave clinder is going bad but previous to last night, everything was fine.

[Rogue_Wulff]

Certainly sounds like the slave or master is starting to leak.
First area to look, is the slave. See if the rubber boot on the rod is wet, or has fluid inside it.
Then look at the master. When it leaks, it usually tends to leak inside the car.
If either look questionable, rebuild or replace it. I always rebuild both at the same time, just for added peace of mind. 95% of the time you can succesfully rebuild the units if they were working well, and just started to leak. When they have been left unused for a while, the success rate for rebuilding starts dropping, as rust pits will form inside them, making them less likely to be rebuildable.
If the parts look questionable, I'd suggest replacements, as they aren't that pricey.

[JShiz]

alright thanks.

[Phoenix7]

www.nopi.com (http://www.nopi.com) has cheap replacements. I have not checked www.summittracing (http://www.summitracing) for price comparisons though.

[JShiz]

Yeah. It's gonna be tough no matter what to replace it... I just don't have that much time (thanks Work...).

Do you think i can refill my clutch fluid and replace my slave and master at a later time?
If not i'll just go borrow my mom's car for the time being.

Edit, Thanks pheonix, those prices are nice. I just have to find the time to do it.

[Phoenix7]

you can get it done in ~45 minutes + 20min. to bleed the hydraulics. You don't really want to have the hydraulics fail on the HWY or traffic though. If you HAVE to wait then just fill it up until you can replace the hydraulics.

[JShiz]

You know what, I found my old service manual and it doesn't looks that bad, bleeding the clutch looks like the worst part.

[Phoenix7]

ummmm, wrong thread. :suspect:

[Rogue_Wulff]

You know what, I found my old service manual and it doesn't looks that bad, bleeding the clutch looks like the worst part.
Yeah, I have rebuilt both the master and slave, along with the bleeding, and been done in less than an hour.
The hardest part about the bleeding, often times the pedal doesn't want to return after bleeding out the pressure, so you have to reach down and pull it back up.
Using a vacuum pump to bleed the system, or a pressure bleeder, is the fastest way to go, but the old fashioned way works just as well.

[JShiz]

Ok. I fixed my cylinders but i was still having problems. I took it in to a shop and the think my pressure plate or my clutch plate is heating up and took some damage. I want know until i find some that can take my transmission off.

Here's my question, i have a friend that has a bunch of 2nd gen stuff. Will those plates or the transmission bolt up to my GSL SE 13b with out a problem, or should i go ahead and pony up the cash for replacements from atkin's rotary.

Edit, I tried to search the 7club but its acting all buggy so i couldn't find anything.

[Rogue_Wulff]

83-88 N/A clutch is all the same.

[JShiz]

ok that's what i thought. thanks

[Rogue_Wulff]

NP. I thing I like about having an '83 12A, the clutch is the same as the NA 13B up to 88, so there are plenty of clutch options available. I went with an Exedy/Daikin OEM kit for the 83, but I will likely go with a more aggressive clutch when the time comes for the SE to get a replacement, since I plan to use the SE more as a track car.