would like info on my FC build

[Turbo vw]

Well this will be my first rotary build, my car is a 88 FC s4 GXL I believe its N/A completely stock was a DD for my buddy and it just shut off on him one day don’t really have any idea what happened or why it happened. Ok iv been talking to a few of my buddies that are on this sight and on another local forum and hears what I have come up with for my billed

Ether use a complete s5 motor,
Or s5 rotors in my s4 case
Street port
up graded springs
Rx8 E-shaft
Header
Full exhaust along with no cats
Custom set up cold air intake
Clutch
Flywheel

I’m open to any advice that any one would like to give me. Don’t want to spend a hole whole lot on the billed. But I want to have a decent car I can go out and play in. Also don’t want to throw a lot of $$$ in because this is my first rotary billed so I don’t want to mess up and have to much in the car


also would be interested in some other info to

Some sort of big brake kit (prefer something I can make using used parts from other cars)
Upgraded springs probably eibocks
Or a set of full coilover’s
Camber caster kit
Strut braces
Sway bar’s upgrade
TII Trans, drive shaft, reared and axles


And if any one has any of these parts around and would like to git rid of them id possible be interested prefer motor parts for now but would considered outers

[jgrewe]

Sounds like a nice start. If you plan to rev it like it should be revved add and FD oil pressure regulator.

[Turbo vw]

o yea and in the rebild kist im looking at im planing on up grading the springs to with the bild

[FirstRotaryExp]

Keep the S4 keg, upgrade to S5 rotors. I dont see a real reason to use an RX-8 shaft unless you like spending money on something that could be chewed up (seen the insides of a blown renesis and old bearings....its not pretty).

Streetporting is a good idea, choose your apex seals wisely, oem is usually the best.

What header are you going to be using? Any NA with no cats is going to be loud, a header is louder, and no presilencer (like found at racingbeat) is going to be illegally loud and draw lots of attention from johnny law.

Though have you confirmed if this car is really blown? "Just shot off" is not really consistant with a blown motor. Blowing a motor feels like you just got half your power stolen from you and the engine shakes like a beast. Ive DD'd my own FC for a week on 1 rotor, started and ran every day on that one rotor until it was removed and replaced. Sounds more like a spark or fuel issue to me, though confirm its blown by pulling the plugs and just listening to the sounds coming from them. Wooshes indicate 'healthy' seals, while nothing at all means blown.

Good luck and hope my post helped.

[Turbo vw]

i know the preves 2 oners of the car and both complaned of under power the stock motor has 126K on it id say it ant really blow up didnt smoke any except for the useal cold start. i just figer it would be best to go ahead and rebild it and im perty shure the clutch is gone the guy that had it last sed it was and i know this is the car he lernd how to drive a stick on so so you know how that gose

why would you keep the s4 case? insted of giting a complet s5

and from what i was told is the Rx8 E-shaft was a lighter shaft and had better oiling

as for my sils im planing on just the classic kit nothing big with up graded springs

im just going on what i have been toled not trying to question ur resons just trying to lern

[85rx-7gsl-se]

Yeah, a actual blown rotor or one running on just one rotor for some reason will sound like flat-4 engine.

[Turbo vw]

Yeah, a actual blown rotor or one running on just one rotor for some reason will sound like flat-4 engine.

lol im youst to those lol

[85rx-7gsl-se]

I know, its a pretty distinctive sound really.

[Turbo vw]

I know, its a pretty distinctive sound really.

lol yea just a little bit lol


so i was also told the 3rd gen FD E-shaft would work to whats the difrences in thim

[85rx-7gsl-se]

Not sure. Never really looked into them much as mine was fine and I am cheap :D

[Turbo vw]

Not sure. Never really looked into them much as mine was fine and I am cheap :D

lol im cheep to lol but i dont mined spending a we bit extra to git a little bit more power

[TehMonkay]

S4 Shortblock
S5 NA rotors
Race rotor bearings, 3 window bearings in stationary gears
FD front oil pressure regulator spring, rear FD oil pressure regulator
Streetport
S5 NA Intake manifold
6 port sleeves removed
VDI wire open
RB Header to exhaust of your choice
RTEK or some other sort of tuning tool
No need for an RX-8 E-Shaft in a mostly stock build
aluminum flywheel
act street clutch

If you're staying NA i'd rather go with an atkins type B rebuild kit instead of the RA, but it's your choice, definately get the upgrade seal springs though.

Make sure you clean everything properly
Change all coolant hoses, flush your oil cooler and radiator(professionally), change your waterpump and thermostat(OEM thermostat only, no aftermarket POS, buy it from the dealer!!!! or you will kill your engine) while it's still easy to do, buy new stainless oil cooler lines if the old lines look worn.

Also look into cleaning your injectors and changing the wiring connectors for them as well.

After that look into a Racing beat suspension package, poly bushings and koni sport/yellow shocks, with camber/caster plates and a rear camer adjustment bar.

[Max777]

You dont need a big brake kit, get these:

Brembo blank replacement rotors
EBC Green Stuff Pads
corksport Stainless steel brake lines
New Master cylinder
ATE super blue brake fluid (or anything else DOT 4)

That should refresh your brake system a whole lot and let you stop safely on the street. The stock brakes are more than adequate for any turbo car, much more so any N/A car.

-Max.

[85rx-7gsl-se]

Max, go easy on him. He IS trying, you should see his post on the other forum he and I are on.

[Max777]

Ok... edited.

[85rx-7gsl-se]

Thanks man, just don't wanna run off new members :icon_tup:

[Phoenix7]

S4TII swap not an option?

[Max777]

/\ You know, that is a good idea for someone who has been an owner for a while, and gotten to know what it's like to be a rotorhead, but maybe it isnt such a good idea for someone who's just jumping into it? I think that the TS will enjoy their N/A just fine, and after they get to know their car well, they can go turbo? A lot of people complain that the FC is slow, but after driving my moms huindai, any sportscar is fast! Also, my vert is faster than a friends auto 944! (althrough that's not saying much :D)

Personally, I am going the N/A route so I can learn how to drive and not kill myself in the process, :D

[Turbo vw]

S4 Shortblock
S5 NA rotors
Race rotor bearings, 3 window bearings in stationary gears
FD front oil pressure regulator spring, rear FD oil pressure regulator
Streetport
S5 NA Intake manifold
6 port sleeves removed
VDI wire open
RB Header to exhaust of your choice
RTEK or some other sort of tuning tool
No need for an RX-8 E-Shaft in a mostly stock build
aluminum flywheel
act street clutch

If you're staying NA i'd rather go with an atkins type B rebuild kit instead of the RA, but it's your choice, definately get the upgrade seal springs though.

Make sure you clean everything properly
Change all coolant hoses, flush your oil cooler and radiator(professionally), change your waterpump and thermostat(OEM thermostat only, no aftermarket POS, buy it from the dealer!!!! or you will kill your engine) while it's still easy to do, buy new stainless oil cooler lines if the old lines look worn.

Also look into cleaning your injectors and changing the wiring connectors for them as well.

After that look into a Racing beat suspension package, poly bushings and koni sport/yellow shocks, with camber/caster plates and a rear camer adjustment bar.


is there any difrences between the s4 and s5 short blocks good or bad
no motter what im going to use the 5 rotors for the higher comp
Race rotor bearings, 3 window bearings in stationary gears (would these come in the rebild kit normaly)
FD front oil pressure regulator spring, rear FD oil pressure regulator(will do)
Streetport(will do)
S5 NA Intake manifold (what would be the advantig over the s4)
6 port sleeves removed (um can some one explan this)
VDI wire open (can some one explane this)
RB Header to exhaust of your choice (i was looking at there rase vershin)
RTEK or some other sort of tuning tool (whats RTEK can you lenk me to info on this)
No need for an RX-8 E-Shaft in a mostly stock build (so no Rx8 E-shaft?)
aluminum flywheel
act street clutch (would like to pick up a used clutch and flywheel together for right know just a decent light weight flywheel and a up graded clutch ACT or exady dont want to spend 400 bucks thin tern around and end up swaping in a TII tranny and what not perfer git one cheep used but still in decent condshen no puck clutchs tho)



the rebild kit im looking at is a basic stock rebild kit and im opting for up graded springs i was told the up graded seal were to touf and could eat up the rotors or somthing like that hears the link to the kit im looking at
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_kits.htm

this is not my first motor rebild altho this is my first rotary rebild

do you thank the stock injecters will be fine for this bild im hoping thay will be

as fare as suspension not a big thang right know but im looking i gess i eather want a full race coil over set up or a decent set of struts with a set of eibock pro kit and a caber caster kit

[Phoenix7]

well, if you plan on acting crazy then yeah, start NA to prevent death and increase power later. If you can control urges to act silly then I don't see how a stock S4TII would be less safe than an NA. It's not about being fast or slow. It's about power-to-cost ratio for me.

[Turbo vw]

You dont need a big brake kit, get these:

Brembo blank replacement rotors
EBC Green Stuff Pads
corksport Stainless steel brake lines
New Master cylinder
ATE super blue brake fluid (or anything else DOT 4)

That should refresh your brake system a whole lot and let you stop safely on the street. The stock brakes are more than adequate for any turbo car, much more so any N/A car.

-Max.


the reson why im wanting a loger brake kit is becouse this car isnt just going to be a car i take out and joy ride in this car is going to be seeing Auto X corses and highway 421 and the dragen probly some to i would like to have that eatra little bit of braking power if at all posoble and i perfer using factry parts from outher cars becouse if somthing fucks up you can always go to advanc and have it in the next day but if i can up grade it i will mostlikly go with brembo rotors, hawk pads, and SB brake lines and call it a day

[Turbo vw]

Thanks man, just don't wanna run off new members :icon_tup:

haha it take a lot to run me off figer he sed somthing about my horendes spelling or somthing lo o well lol all hes doin is :beatdeadhorse5: lol

[Phoenix7]

it hurts.

Go out and drive the 7 first. GO find it's limitations and THEN spend money. You're doing it backwards.

[Turbo vw]

S4TII swap not an option?

well right know i dont want to git in to all that wiht the car and for the condishens the car is going to see to me a decent hi-comp N/A will do what i want i hope manly looking for decent low in power i know its a rotory but i dont want to sit thater coming out of a tern wating to a turbo to spool

[Turbo vw]

it hurts.

Go out and drive the 7 first. GO find it's limitations and THEN spend money. You're doing it backwards.

haha 7 dont even tern over at the moment just shut off one day lol and wont tern over at all (i can tern it over by hand but starter ant doin shit + the lematachens on that motor would be very low clutch is shot and the motor had no power befor it shut off that day so lol)

[Turbo vw]

well, if you plan on actinc crazy then yeah, start NA to prevent death and increase power later. If you can control urges to act silly then I don't see how a stock S4TII would be less safe than an NA. It's not about being fast or slow. It's about power-to-cost ratio for me.

for right know NA is ware i want to be at

[Phoenix7]

well right know i dont want to get in to all that with the car and for the condition the car is going to see, to me, a decent high-comp N/A will do what i want, i hope. Mainly looking for decent-to-low in power. i know its a rotary but i dont want to sit there coming out of a turn waiting to a turbo to spoolI asked if it was an option and I have yet to experience the problem you're mentioning about lag. Ever. Maybe if you slap on a GT35 or something bigger.

haha 7 doesn't even turn over at the moment, just shut off one day lol and wont turn over at all (i can turn it over by hand but starter ain't doin shit + the lematachens on that motor would be very low. clutch is shot and the motor had no power before it shut off that day so lol)Then why are you trying to waste money on big brake kits and stuff you don't need or EVEN KNOW it NEEDS?

for right know NA is where i want to be atcool. NA is just as fun.


FIXED your posts but DAMN! I can't do it again.


WTF is lematachens??????????????

[classicauto]

Some input from my worthless mind.

i know its a rotory but i dont want to sit thater coming out of a tern wating to a turbo to spool

With an N/A, you will come out of every corner waiting for a turbo to spool. Only it will never happen.

IMHO, deep groove race bearings aren't required at all. In fact, I wouldn't even change the exisiting bearings in your engine unless they are trash. For what you're doing, money could be better spent elsewhere (unless you require them due to damage)

Good luck with your build :)

[Turbo vw]

I asked if it was an option and I have yet to experience the problem you're mentioning about lag. Ever. Maybe if you slap on a GT35 or something bigger.

Then why are you trying to waste money on big brake kits and stuff you don't need or EVEN KNOW it NEEDS?

cool. NA is just as fun.


FIXED your posts but DAMN! I can't do it again.


WTF is lematachens??????????????


ok sorry about the spelling but i ment limitations


iv had enuf cars in my life turo supercharged and NA what i want is a nice quic throtle respons that you dont really git with a turbo


i posted it up that i was looking for some info right know i would like to git one for the car trust me ill over drive those brakes the first time up highway 421 but no im not in a hurry for that the motor is the main thank im just looking for info

[Turbo vw]

Some input from my worthless mind.



With an N/A, you will come out of every corner waiting for a turbo to spool. Only it will never happen.

IMHO, deep groove race bearings aren't required at all. In fact, I wouldn't even change the exisiting bearings in your engine unless they are trash. For what you're doing, money could be better spent elsewhere (unless you require them due to damage)

Good luck with your build :)


well the way iv alwasd looked at motors i want it to be reliable every thang from the race motors iv bilt to a frekin geo metro i freshend up lol id perfer replace the barings now will the motors going to gether thin latter down the road thus wear out any any thang else this motor is going to be driven hard people:driving:


thanks for yours and evry ones input

[classicauto]

Thats my point though, new bearings in a rotary really aren't needed unless they're trash. New bearings are more likely to spin and cause damage then old (but still useable) bearings for a number of reasons. One being clearances are so so so super important on new bearing engines its not even funny. The only new bearing engine I've had personal experience with had damaged bearings when I tore it down after blowing it up.........................every original bearing (that was useable) engine I've had has been fine however.

You should also know, if you're using an RX-8 e-shaft that there's a small (half thou?) taper on the front main. If you don't use an RX-8 bearing there you'll spin those fancy race bitches off in a hurry.

[TehMonkay]

is there any difrences between the s4 and s5 short blocks good or bad nitrided stationary gears, thats it you dont really need them though
no motter what im going to use the 5 rotors for the higher comp
Race rotor bearings, 3 window bearings in stationary gears (would these come in the rebild kit normaly)no you would want to order them seperate
FD front oil pressure regulator spring, rear FD oil pressure regulator(will do)
Streetport(will do)
S5 NA Intake manifold (what would be the advantig over the s4)(about 12HP iirc, and if my sources are correct)
6 port sleeves removed (um can some one explan this)aux sleeves suck, remove them
VDI wire open (can some one explane this)you dont have an option for the vdi on the s5 intake so youll need to wire it open
RB Header to exhaust of your choice (i was looking at there rase vershin)just get the collected version
RTEK or some other sort of tuning tool (whats RTEK can you lenk me to info on this)http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=rtek7get the one for S4 NA
No need for an RX-8 E-Shaft in a mostly stock build (so no Rx8 E-shaft?)
aluminum flywheel
act street clutch (would like to pick up a used clutch and flywheel together for right know just a decent light weight flywheel and a up graded clutch ACT or exady dont want to spend 400 bucks thin tern around and end up swaping in a TII tranny and what not perfer git one cheep used but still in decent condshen no puck clutchs tho)



the rebild kit im looking at is a basic stock rebild kit and im opting for up graded springs i was told the up graded seal were to touf and could eat up the rotors or somthing like that hears the link to the kit im looking at
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_kits.htm

this is not my first motor rebild altho this is my first rotary rebild

do you thank the stock injecters will be fine for this bild im hoping thay will beyes

as fare as suspension not a big thang right know but im looking i gess i eather want a full race coil over set up or a decent set of struts with a set of eibock pro kit and a caber caster kit[/COLOR]

[djmtsu]

Listen to the guys in here.

-The engine, you can go a whole lotta ways. Build it for mid level power, and long life. HP is not what its all about, no matter what some people say.

-The brakes. I think you will find that the stock brakes on FC's are pretty damn GREAT, that is why they continued to use the same calipers on FD's. In all honesty, nobody really NEEDS 'big brakes'. There is no point in arguing it here, that is just the way it is.

-The rest of the car, do whatever makes you happy (which means, we need to approve as well). If I see a big ol' wing, or sleepy eyes, I just might cry.

[Phoenix7]

I don't cry, I black out and go postal. :lol: in the end, we can only recommend things we think are important. If he wants to continue to do things his way then great. As long as he shares his work and final product I'm happy.

[Turbo vw]

im not going to go do any thang like a big ugly ass fast and the fouries wing lol im not a ricer lol im leavin the stock mazda wing on the car it will most likly be receving a set of 17" koing wheels im probly going to leav the koing stickers on the doors who knows whats under thim and of course its going to be lowerd when i start giting into suspension stuff and probly tent the windows and thats about it every thang else is going to be drive tran and suspension

[djmtsu]

You don't want Koenig wheels if you are looking for an improvement over stock. They design their wheels to fit the Honda crowd.

FYI- I stepped down from 17" wheels to the factory BBS convertible wheels (with wider rubber of course) and the improvement is amazing. I shaved about 8 lbs of rotating mass from each corner of the car.

[Turbo vw]

so hears the question now shuld i git the race barings or shuld i git new ones i know if there shot i will but if there not just stick with the old ones

[Turbo vw]

You don't want Koenig wheels if you are looking for an improvement over stock. They design their wheels to fit the Honda crowd.

FYI- I stepped down from 17" wheels to the factory BBS convertible wheels (with wider rubber of course) and the improvement is amazing. I shaved about 8 lbs of rotating mass from each corner of the car.



i have a set of 17" koing wheels that i have ran on every thang from DSM's 240's, 300zx, explorer...... and the car has this koing sticker that who knows how long thay have been on the car and well dosent look to bad but afrade ifi go trying to remove it who knows whats under it so i figer use those tell i decided to paint it or git enuf balles to remove those stickers

[Turbo vw]

so if i git a chanch to buy a complet s5 N/A motor would it be worth paying just a litle bit more and using the s5 insted of my s4 short block just wondering

ok so a s5 intake manafold would it be worth porting and polishing it

as for tuning i have somthing in mined but dont know if it will work with a rotary yet tho

[vex]

I know I'm jumping into the discussion a little late (just cause I have a hard time trying to decipher your posts, but... I won't hold it against you), but I was pretty close to the same position you are in now about a year ago. What I decided to do was build the car from the ground up. What you need to decide prior to buying all the parts or even thinking about the parts is how much power do you want to put down to the road. What's your main focus with the car (or as I like to put it, the over arching philosophy)?

For me I wanted my end result to be able to put down anywhere from 400 to 600 hp and still be reliable. This means that I will have to pay alot more than most people to get it done right. Once I set the power level and what the use of the car would be I wanted to make sure I wouldn't have to go back and redo more than I had to later on (unless I wanted to). With that mentality I aimed specifically at the suspension first.

With your suspension, what do you want? You want to be able to brake all that power in a controlled manner. If you're HP goals aren't going to be Huge (read that at anything more than 350+ or so) then your stock brakes are fine. Honestly speaking there is no need to go to a large brake kit for the most part even if you exceed that rule of thumb. Just get new pads that are better than stock.

Next you want to look at your tires. Is your foot print big enough for your power? That's pretty easy to verify, up it. Granted some people run over kill on their cars, but they're in racing--so they need that extra grip.

After that look at your suspension geometry, do you need adjustability? Do you need stiffer spring rates? Do you need camber? Do you have or do you want to eliminate DTSS? These are things you should look at prior to your engine specifics.

Once you have your suspension dialed in it's time to look at your engine. You want high compression rotors from an S5. Why? They're not that big of a compression increase from S4. If the extra .2 of the ratio is worth it, then go for it--just remember that the majority of the horse power increase comes from the VDI, not the compression ratio. Beyond that there are some good things to do while the engine is apart: porting, 3-window bearing, ectera. RX8 eccentric shaft... That's personal preference I presume and I'll leave that input up to the more experienced members on the forum.

Also when considering your engine, what are your end goals with it? Do you want reliable power? Do you want all out fast from it? Are you going to convert it to a 6-port turbo? These are questions that should point you in the right direction with the project and give you a rough understanding of what to expect. What I'm always scared of is that if I do not have my suspension dialed in how am I supposed to control my car in a tough situation? Adding more power to no suspension increases is a dangerous mix to say the least.

Just my two cents though.

[Phoenix7]

I know I'm jumping into the discussion a little late (just cause I have a hard time trying to decipher your posts, but... I won't hold it against you), but I was pretty close to the same position you are in now about a year ago. What I decided to do was build the car from the ground up. What you need to decide prior to buying all the parts or even thinking about the parts is how much power do you want to put down to the road. What's your main focus with the car (or as I like to put it, the over arching philosophy)?

For me I wanted my end result to be able to put down anywhere from 400 to 600 hp and still be reliable. This means that I will have to pay alot more than most people to get it done right. Once I set the power level and what the use of the car would be I wanted to make sure I wouldn't have to go back and redo more than I had to later on (unless I wanted to). With that mentality I aimed specifically at the suspension first.

With your suspension, what do you want? You want to be able to brake all that power in a controlled manner. If you're HP goals aren't going to be Huge (read that at anything more than 350+ or so) then your stock brakes are fine. Honestly speaking there is no need to go to a large brake kit for the most part even if you exceed that rule of thumb. Just get new pads that are better than stock.

Next you want to look at your tires. Is your foot print big enough for your power? That's pretty easy to verify, up it. Granted some people run over kill on their cars, but they're in racing--so they need that extra grip.

After that look at your suspension geometry, do you need adjustability? Do you need stiffer spring rates? Do you need camber? Do you have or do you want to eliminate DTSS? These are things you should look at prior to your engine specifics.

Once you have your suspension dialed in it's time to look at your engine. You want high compression rotors from an S5. Why? They're not that big of a compression increase from S4. If the extra .2 of the ratio is worth it, then go for it--just remember that the majority of the horse power increase comes from the VDI, not the compression ratio. Beyond that there are some good things to do while the engine is apart: porting, 3-window bearing, ectera. RX8 eccentric shaft... That's personal preference I presume and I'll leave that input up to the more experienced members on the forum.

Also when considering your engine, what are your end goals with it? Do you want reliable power? Do you want all out fast from it? Are you going to convert it to a 6-port turbo? These are questions that should point you in the right direction with the project and give you a rough understanding of what to expect. What I'm always scared of is that if I do not have my suspension dialed in how am I supposed to control my car in a tough situation? Adding more power to no suspension increases is a dangerous mix to say the least.

Just my two cents though.said nicely. I still need to pick Roen's brain on this too, in due time. he'll hate me. :lol:

[Max777]

With an N/A, you will come out of every corner waiting for a turbo to spool... only it will never happen.



:smilielol5::smilielol5::smilielol5:

That right there just made my day... thanks for the new sig quote dude! :D


i have a set of 17" koing wheels that i have ran on every thang from DSM's 240's, 300zx, explorer...... and the car has this koing sticker that who knows how long thay have been on the car and well dosent look to bad but afrade ifi go trying to remove it who knows whats under it so i figer use those tell i decided to paint it or git enuf balles to remove those stickers

umm.... hairdryer and goo gone will do the trick to ANYTHING.

Again, on brakes: If your car is 4 lug, then you need to upgrade, if it is 5 lug, then you have the same brakes as the TURBO model, and if they will slow that down, they will be MORE THAN ENOUGH for the N/A!

Please, leave any preconcieved notions outside when you are here, we rotorheads are like family, and only want to help. We wont tell you something like this if it:

a) was bullshit.

b) hasn't been asked 1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 times by other people. We have all been there, and a lot of the knowledge comes down from very experienced people who know the RX-7 inside and out!

[Max777]

another double post... sorry.

[Turbo vw]

:smilielol5::smilielol5::smilielol5:

That right there just made my day... thanks for the new sig quote dude! :D




umm.... hairdryer and goo gone will do the trick to ANYTHING.

Again, on brakes: If your car is 4 lug, then you need to upgrade, if it is 5 lug, then you have the same brakes as the TURBO model, and if they will slow that down, they will be MORE THAN ENOUGH for the N/A!

Please, leave any preconcieved notions outside when you are here, we rotorheads are like family, and only want to help. We wont tell you something like this if it:

a) was bullshit.

b) hasn't been asked 1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 times by other people. We have all been there, and a lot of the knowledge comes down from very experienced people who know the RX-7 inside and out!



im not trying to be a ass hole im not i understand every thang ur say and that you have been there but i have been there with the brake befor right know not a big deal to me more woried about the motor than the brakes but i do evently plan on up grading thim and this is my resoning ok this wont be my first car bilt like this and for this set up ok i know how to drive and i drive hard not trying to be coucky but i was driving my buddys 300zx TT stock braks but with hawk pads and brembo rotors and SB brake lines up graded suspension and bolt on motor up graded FMIC, 3" down piped up graded to T28 turbos ....... made around 450hp basickly just about ran right of a mountin becouse the brake set up couldnt slow me down enuf to go around a blind tern yes i know i was a dome ass for going so fast but im not at that point in my life ware im willing to chanch it id perfer have upgraded braks and not haft to worry about it for right know

[djmtsu]

The 300ZX is heavier than an FC (I think), and dedicated track cars don't even use big brakes. Honestly, the only thing a big brake kit will give you (given the same circumstances as the Z car) is lock up will occur sooner.

[Max777]

Good point, the 300ZX is a pig and over uses the brakes. the same brakes on the FC would be a lot better. the FC weighs 3000lbs for the vert, so that is either 500~800 LBS lighter than 300ZX depending on model. (or was it the supra that weighed 3800?)

[Turbo vw]

it wasnt that thay loced up it was i was running out of rad to git slow enuf to make the tern

[vex]

it wasnt that thay loced up it was i was running out of rad to git slow enuf to make the tern

You're comparing apples to oranges. The 300zx weighs an impressive: 3300-3500lbs (z32) Compare that with the FC which tips the scales at: 2625-3071lbs. You suddenly don't have an extra 229-875lbs to stop. Not to mention other things to consider (Place on the torque curve, power at the wheels, speed, etc). Automatically you'd have to start scrubbing speed alot sooner than you would with an FC, and that's just based on weight.

If you want to spend the money, you can get a 6-piston big brake kit for a little over 2g's. That's just for the front set though. That includes slotted/drilled rotors and the calipers. On top of that you have to figure out the rear as installing those will not only increase your weight but also throw off your braking balance.

Honeslty speaking however, the 4-pot brake system on the FC's are already quite impressive for stock-moderate power levels. But have you set your final goal with power? What are you attempting to do?

[85rx-7gsl-se]

Good point, the 300ZX is a pig and over uses the brakes. the same brakes on the FC would be a lot better. the FC weighs 3000lbs for the vert, so that is either 500~800 LBS lighter than 300ZX depending on model. (or was it the supra that weighed 3800?)

I think you are thinking 3000GT VR4. Supras are around 3500lbs.

[Turbo vw]

You're comparing apples to oranges. The 300zx weighs an impressive: 3300-3500lbs (z32) Compare that with the FC which tips the scales at: 2625-3071lbs. You suddenly don't have an extra 229-875lbs to stop. Not to mention other things to consider (Place on the torque curve, power at the wheels, speed, etc). Automatically you'd have to start scrubbing speed alot sooner than you would with an FC, and that's just based on weight.

If you want to spend the money, you can get a 6-piston big brake kit for a little over 2g's. That's just for the front set though. That includes slotted/drilled rotors and the calipers. On top of that you have to figure out the rear as installing those will not only increase your weight but also throw off your braking balance.

Honeslty speaking however, the 4-pot brake system on the FC's are already quite impressive for stock-moderate power levels. But have you set your final goal with power? What are you attempting to do?


if and when i do do a big brake kit im not going to buy some after market kit i will make it my self in oregnal post i was basickly asking if any one has made a big brake kit and what thay have used and if i can git a diragram of there brakets for the calapers and what not but like iv sed 3 or 4 times not to woried about having a big brake kit right know more looking at the motor the only reson it keeps comming up is becouse you all keep branging it up

[Turbo vw]

I think you are thinking 3000GT VR4. Supras are around 3500lbs.

i wonder if i can git my cobra/3000gt brake set up off my talon to work on the FC lol

[Max777]

Oh, ok... thanks then... I remember one of the cars from "that" club being around ~3800lbs :D

PS: "That club" incudes the Skyline GTR, GTO VR4, Supra TT, and the 300ZX TT.

These were all Grand Touring "monster" cars that came with bigger engines, and twin turbos.

[classicauto]

FWIW, better tires will stop you faster.

I used to lock up the tires on my S4 N/A single piston setup qutie a bit at the track if I was getting jumpy on the brake pedal. With good compound, slightly wider tires, the brakes were able to work much more to slow the car down...

Another thing to keep in mind if you're planning on going ahead with the BBK, is the size ratio of master cylinder to caliper piston bore. You'll want to retain the same ratio as stock to keep the pedal feel and not make it spongey, or drastically increase the effort.