Cerberus Project [Archive] - Rotary Car Club

vex

07-05-2008, 07:49 PM

Started over a year ago when I wrecked my first 7. The preliminaries were to swap the 6-port into the roller chasis I picked up and do the interrior. Since this has been covered already over Here ('http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=661662'). So I won't bore you with the repitious behavior. Instead I'll declare what's to come and give you a little idea of what I'm working towards.

I left off on the restoration with the installation of the Tein Flex coilovers and had just picked up my Racing Beat Front and Rear Sway bars. The installation of the energy suspension bushings, new ball joints, and tie-rods has been postponed as I ran out of money and my credit card was getting rather heavy. Since school's been out I've been interning and saving money while paying off that debt. I'm now currently pricing everything for the next step of this project and I've included the file to give you a nice little sneak peak.

Since that time however I have done a few different things to the car. Not a whole lot, but enough to warrant mention. I have a partially installed front RB sway bar (One bolt will not hold tension, but is not moving anywhere... Will have a shop fix the hole). Rear sway bar is not installed yet because of a sheard bolt in one of the hubs. Will be having that fixed at the same time as the front sway bar. I'll also get a quote for the energy suspension bushings to be installed and if it's reasonable will have them install it (the reason for such the delay in the installation is the fact that the Delrin bushings I ordered never made it to me quick enough so I had to scrap the previous appointment. Don't worry though. They're for the rear subframe, shouldn't be too harsh).

Well, anyways; check out the .pdf (converted from the .xls file I have going) it'll give you a rough understanding of where i'm heading.

vex

07-11-2008, 07:35 AM

Here's something to whet your whistle on:

The turbo I'm considering (will most likely buy) for this project:
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/Library/images/products/large/60_Series_large044714.jpg 60-1 F1-62 .77AFR what does everyone think? Too small?

WE3RX7

07-15-2008, 09:16 PM

vex

07-16-2008, 06:49 AM

My buddy lives in Culpeper still and has that turbo on his miata. We built it about 3 years ago and have been playing around with tuning since then. Its a pretty decent turbo. Should play out well for the 13B - but is a bit much on the 1.8L's stock head.

Oh hey, you found it. lol. I was about to link it to the NE section for you.

Yeah, the guy that's selling it to me works for Turbonetics and has told me it's good for about 4-600. We'll see though. I think I'll only be able to pull in low 300's with the Rtek. Depending on how all my other supporting modifications go I may be able to secure myself a M600--that's my intent at least. I'm also picking up a waste gate and a blow-off/by-pass valve on top of the turbo. I'll probably be selling the original S4 turbo I have. But that won't happen until down the road a little bit.

I still need to get the suspension dialed in and my bushings installed though... maybe I'll do that when I head back to school. We'll see though.

WE3RX7

07-17-2008, 08:41 PM

We'll all have to hang out at some point. Its not hard to get the three rotor heads in culpeper to get together, lol. My buddy just finished building his house out in Highpoint. I know one of his neighbors has an FD w/ '99 spec equipment, so maybe we could get him to come out too.

Growing in Culpeper was fun being a rotor head, nobody understood my car :)

Phoenix7

08-03-2008, 02:30 PM

So is this S4? S5? i ASK BECAUSE I'M TRYING TO SEE IF ANYONE DOES THE oiL SYSTEM REMOVAL WHEN THEY CLEAN UP THE EMISSIONS. Caps locks owned me.

vex

08-03-2008, 02:57 PM

So is this S4? S5? i ASK BECAUSE I'M TRYING TO SEE IF ANYONE DOES THE oiL SYSTEM REMOVAL WHEN THEY CLEAN UP THE EMISSIONS. Caps locks owned me.

It's an S4. So far my plans include keeping the OMP mechancial but running a full stroke TPS (either a rotary style, or an s5 modified). I'm still toying around with what I'd like to do with the oil besides modifications of the oiling system and pan to support a turbo, as for the OMP... I've toyed with running two stroke oil in an external resivior but I'm just not keen to another fluid that would need to be filled up.

But here's the most recent modification to cleaning up the engine bay:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Battery%20Relocation/IMG_3144.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Battery%20Relocation/IMG_3145.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Battery%20Relocation/IMG_3146.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Battery%20Relocation/IMG_3147.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Battery%20Relocation/IMG_3148.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Battery%20Relocation/IMG_3149.jpg
Bought a new battery and threw it in the passenger bin. My main focus is cleaning up the engine bay and running a wire tuck a little later.

Unfortunatly as you see the engine bay is in pretty rough shape. My plan of action is to pull the engine and tranny, modify what I need to on the engine for the turbo, strip the engine bay. Strip the paint, POR-15 it. Remove the fenders and begin mounting the wires and grommets in the upper fender. This will clean up alot of the engine. I'm not sure I'll tuck the coils since I'm probably going to go indepent ignition eventually.

vex

08-03-2008, 05:06 PM

oh yeah... I forgot to post these pictures up as well.... :D

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Turbo/IMG_3165.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Turbo/IMG_3166.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Turbo/IMG_3167.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Turbo/IMG_3168.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Turbo/IMG_3169.jpg

Gotta make room in the engine bay.

vex

08-26-2008, 04:22 PM

Christmas came in August this year:

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Cooling/IMG_0006.jpg
Look at the quality packaging material:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Cooling/IMG_0007.jpg
Ohhhh! Reading material!
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Cooling/IMG_0008.jpg
All the teasing's over
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Cooling/IMG_0009.jpg

vex

08-30-2008, 02:44 PM

Well, this weekend's been pretty nice.

Yesterday I got my evolution wastegate (35mm), and I went ahead and swapped in the 5lbs spring (instead of the stock 9lbs) I think it's the safest one to go with for right now.

I snapped a couple pictures during the process and will load those up soonish.

I also got my car back from my mechanic. Full bushing swap to poly plus the rear subframe now is mounted with Derlin. It rides so nicely now, and I'll take some pictures of the bushings before I load up the pictures for the wastegate. I still need to go get it aligned and re-torque everything in about a week or so. So that should be nice and fun.

WE3RX7

08-31-2008, 09:44 PM

vex

09-01-2008, 02:39 PM

Suspenseful man!

You'll be glad (or not) to know - I sold my FB and I am now 99% dedicated back to my FC project, so you'll have to come by sometime to check it out. The other 1% is to the 8... it needs a few things :)

I'll be interested to see what route you take w/ your radiator though as I'm using the same one...

Actually I am excited to hear that. I want pictures so snap away while you do it.

I just sent out a quote to get some flanges made from MPI. We'll see what happens.

I may have a local car guy tig weld in some slotted brackets for me. That may prove to be the easier of the two routes (compared to making a rack to hang it on). Beyond that I'm just waiting right now until my court date for the speeding ticket. I already just sent in the money for the faulty exhaust. It would cost me more to drive up to Culpeper to get it taken care of than it would be to just pay it out of pocket.

After that I'm planning on tearing into the car and stripping the engine down to nothing but the Keg. I'll then begin work on the engine bay (stripping the paint, sanding it down, drilling, running wires, running pipes, etc) and installing the radiator. This is going to be a fun time. I've been waiting about a year or so to get to this stage. I'll also probably be shipping off my spare ECU to get it turned into an RTek. Before that though I will have to make sure it works. I don't really trust it... mostly because I haven't tested it yet.

But back to those flanges I sent off to be quoted; I found some online and the total would come to a little over 40 (60 I think) bucks for everything I want. I'm going to see if MPI can beat that price. Then I'll have flanges of my own make! w00t!

edit: ECU has been shipped out!

WE3RX7

09-02-2008, 03:37 PM

You can test the ECU out of the car, but its probably too late now that its shipped. I'd also assume that RTek will test the ECU before shipping it back to you since they'll want to make sure their modifications take.

Are you tearing the car down in blacksburg or up in Culpeper? I should have some updated pics of my FC (I have a build up thread here already) as I'm beginning the interior swap over to black.

vex

09-03-2008, 08:21 AM

I tested the ECU I was worried about. It works fine. in fact it's running the car now. I shipped out the regular one (N326) to be modded.

vex

09-08-2008, 02:20 PM

Just got the RTek back today. I'm still having connection problems with the TX but I'm working on it. We'll see what happens though.

WE3RX7

09-08-2008, 06:19 PM

TX - not sure I'm following on that one?

TehMonkay

09-08-2008, 06:32 PM

TX = send channel on a data line.

WE3RX7

09-08-2008, 07:30 PM

Ah - makes sense....

BTW - I'd love to join you at Summit, but it'll have to be next year since I'm nowhere near done w/ my car, lol.

I am interested to hear your thoughts on that rtek though...

vex

09-08-2008, 10:30 PM

TX - not sure I'm following on that one?
It's the Palm I'm using
TX = send channel on a data line.
Yes... sort of. Tx usually denotes send channel on the data line, however it's also the designation of the Palm I'm using to run the RTek. Which, by the way I have working (for the most part).
Ah - makes sense....

BTW - I'd love to join you at Summit, but it'll have to be next year since I'm nowhere near done w/ my car, lol.

I am interested to hear your thoughts on that rtek though...

Oh don't worry, my car won't be ready this year either. I'll have just done the engine and suspension. I'll still have to get the interior and exterior up to snuff.

So far the Rtek is really nice. I enjoy the ease of use, it's only giving me trouble because of the Palm I use (just because I already have it). I'm still working on some issues with the logging, but for the most part it has the ability to track everything you'd need from a stand-alone, and plus some. This is however only temporary. I'm planning on going full stand alone at some point in the future, but that has yet to be finalized as I still need to locate some cannon plugs (or someone who's willing to construct the harness for me). I'm thinking sometime over spring semester or so.

You can set alarms and triggers for datalogging, and there's a few other features I still want to toy around with. But that's going to have to be tomorrow.

vex

09-29-2008, 08:28 PM

Alright the car is going under the knife this week for an undesignated amount of time. currently ordering parts... Will have pictures up sometime soonish when the parts come in.

WE3RX7

09-29-2008, 10:56 PM

I was beginning to wonder...

vex

09-30-2008, 09:44 PM

haha, sorry. I was just biding my time until my court date. So far I have a few of the major components I need. I still will be ordering a few things from specific vendors but right now I have the following coming in:

Shifter Boot
E-Brake Boot
680 Injectors x 2
FD Alt
FPR
Y-Block
Rear Wiper Motor
FD Fuel Pump

I still need to find a pair of 550's lo-imp. The guy on here just went silent so I don't know what's going on with that. If worse comes to worse I'll just have to buy a set off of 7club.

WE3RX7

10-01-2008, 03:14 PM

Hit me up after this weekend, I'm picking up some misc stuff this Friday to sell off and a lot of it is for an FD and might be something you're interested in. I wont know what all I'm getting until I pick it up.

vex

10-01-2008, 08:42 PM

vex

11-10-2008, 04:49 PM

Alright, basically due to money problems I have stalled on this project. I'm currently held up on ordering raw materials such as Stainless steel pipe (3in), mufflers, presilencers, and getting stainless steel flanges cut/made/ordered. I'm also planning on ordering a cannon plug and some wire as I now have a source to pick those up. Which leads me to hold off on ordering anything for it until next semester as I have LARGE purchases coming up (which include laptop, engagement and wedding ring, etc) so... who knows.

Also of effect does anyone know of where to order alternator parts online? I'm wanting to use a customized FD alt so I need to source those components as well. Not to mention an FD to FC dual Alt Pulley.

WE3RX7

11-10-2008, 04:51 PM

Marriage huh? That'll put a dent in the car project! Congrats though nonetheless.

Besides the FD to FC dual alt pulley - what other alt parts do you need?

vex

11-10-2008, 05:49 PM

Marriage huh? That'll put a dent in the car project! Congrats though nonetheless.

Besides the FD to FC dual alt pulley - what other alt parts do you need?

FD alt rebuild parts, so I'll need just about everything, minus the stator. Bearings and everything are good, so is the core. I have a list of things I need and a site that tells me what the part numbers are, but they don't let the average person buy off them. Give me a sec and I'll be able to dig it up.

I need a rectifier and regulator
Regulator
http://www.transpo.de/cgi-win/product.exe?IM830
Rectifier
http://www.transpo.de/cgi-win/product.exe?IMR10068

I might buy some slip rings too
http://www.transpo.de/cgi-win/product.exe?13179001
http://www.transpo.de/cgi-win/product.exe?13179002

As for the marriage bit, I doubt it'll significantly slow it down any. She likes my car and wants me to complete it ;)

vex

01-27-2009, 12:00 PM

Well... it's a new semester and I have about 80% of the parts I need to install a turbo on my car.

I have ordered a few things, mainly an RB engine to header flange, some mild steel mandrel bends, and some por15. I also secured a garage for use come Feb. This should be quite fun. I'll hopefully have pics and stuff posting when I start the project.

vex

02-11-2009, 08:37 PM

The reason for lack of pictures is I don't really have a camera (well, that's a lie. I have a camera I'm just too lazy to find some double A's to put in it).

Right now the engine bay is about 90% apart. I still have some harnesses and a few things on the drivers side that I need to remove before prepping the bay for paint. I've looked again at the rear rotor through the Bore Scope and still see standing liquid there. I'm not sure if it's gas or not, but the smell is of gas and I can't seem to sop it up--but then again I haven't really tried recently. I shall try it more when I have the chance and might even syphon as much as I can out of the housing.

I've ordered a few more parts, mainly the stainless steel mufflers, some stainless steel line, and fittings for the fuel rails that I modified.

Apparently the mild bends I ordered never actually got sent, or processed so I'm considering going with schedule 40 stainless steel. I have very, very limited space so I will be attempting to figure out the best way to cut and make the turbo manifold.

I'm currently waiting on No Limit Industries to finish production on a tube kit for me which will get the project on the face track.

Here's hoping.

WE3RX7

02-11-2009, 11:20 PM

Pics, or it never happened :)

You going to be around Culpeper much when this is finished up?? I want to see it...

vex

02-12-2009, 01:02 PM

Pics, or it never happened :)

You going to be around Culpeper much when this is finished up?? I want to see it...

Come the summer months. I'm still concerned about that rear rotor housing. I keep flip flopping between it being excess gas or coolant. I honestly didn't notice any un-accountable coolant going missing, but then again I don't think gas would stay pooled in the rear housing for that long.... Maybe i'm just paranoid.

anyways, my shipment from summit should be getting here soon and I can finally get my fuel rails put together.

I'll try to snag some pictures here in a few. It's going to be a busy time in a little while.

WE3RX7

02-12-2009, 01:44 PM

Well, in an attempt to move forward with the project, you can use the engine in there as it is to build the turbo system, do the plumbing, etc and if then once everything is setup good... you could pull the block and do a quick rebuild. I always recommend doing a rebuild BEFORE blowing seals through the new turbine...

vex

02-12-2009, 03:17 PM

I'll probably need to pull and port it eventually, but I need it to at least last over the summer months and get me back to tech for next year. Once the school year starts again I don't mind not having a car and porting the engine.

vex

02-13-2009, 09:41 PM

well... today I was able to confirm that I'm going to need to pull the engine and rebuild it. The coolant seal has gone and there is a nice puddle of coolant sitting in the rear rotor area. At least this way I can port the intake and maybe even get rid of the baffles in the exhaust.

Going to pull the engine probably tomorrow and see what I need to get to rebuild it. I'm thinking just the atkins gasket kit and what not.

WE3RX7

02-15-2009, 11:28 PM

If the coolant seal went, I'd check the step wear on the irons.

You may not need apex seals & springs, so that should save some $$

vex

02-16-2009, 12:52 AM

Well pulled apart the rear iron today (and did a few other things), and I found this:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Feb%202009/IMG_0061.jpg
It's about a half inch gap on the lower portion of the iron where the seal failed. Besides that no damage from what I can see. I think all the seals on my rotors are good, but for the most part I'm still attempting to see if the backing of the inner oring is supposed to be like that or not. I thought it was supposed to have rear support all the way around. It doesn't look like a metal failure but like it's been either caste that way or removed by a dremel. There's no damage to the Oring surface, but that concerns me.

And here's a random picture (didn't take any of the car), but it's getting closer and closer to POR15 time. Still got to do the marine clean and metal prep, then tape it up and start painting.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Feb%202009/IMG_0063.jpg

vex

02-16-2009, 03:00 AM

Anyone willing to give me a rear iron for a 6 port engine? Or am I going to have to go digging for a new engine?

Max777

02-16-2009, 03:07 PM

/\ PM sent!

WE3RX7

02-16-2009, 08:49 PM

yea, that iron is f'd.

I just did POR15 today. Have fun. I'm not in love with the application process, but it turns out ok. And their "semi" gloss is super glossy, lol...

vex

02-18-2009, 10:06 PM

well removed the rear iron and rear housing today, the housing looks prestine. I'll be specing it shortly and the Apex seals look to be two piece apex seals with lots of life left (though I have not spec'd them yet).

Also begun degreasing the engine bay with the marine clean. Will finish degreasing and application of it next time I'm out there. Still need to pick up a few supplies but I should be making large amounts of head way soon.

vex

02-20-2009, 04:25 PM

Look what came in the mail today!
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Feb%202009/IMG_0064.jpg
Should be getting the other parts for the exhaust sometime next week. Also plan on working on the car today so I should have a few more pictures and what not.

WE3RX7

02-20-2009, 04:34 PM

I dont get it - big red plastic bags? How will that help ;)

You should put off all that work and come to the drive tomorrow, I'll be down in lynchburg for it, www.thecvmc.com

Good luck man...

vex

02-20-2009, 04:53 PM

Can't, I have no other vehicle, so I must put this one back together asap. I need to get done.

vex

02-22-2009, 03:55 PM

Alright, well I inspected the Apex seals. They are the classic 3 piece mazda style apex seals and they all measure within .1mm of 7mm in total height, there is very, very, very little warpage aka, unable to measure the warpage without causing the pieces to separate. So now I stand on the threashold trying to decide on if I should buy a new set of Apex seals (2 piece, or 1 piece) and if I do buy a new set, do I want to have them cryogenically treated or not... I'd like increased durability and reliability, but I'm not sure if it would be worth the increase in price. Any suggestions?

Here's some pictures of what's been accomplished so far:
Drilled, and tapped secondary fuel rail. At some point in the future I may get rid of this and go with a KGParts fuel rail instead. But in the meantime I think this will work out nicely.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Feb%202009/IMG_0067.jpg
Rough look of where I want the new radiator to sit. I plan on relocating the oil cooler an inch or so forward and dropping the radiator down to have a complete perpendicular set up (no mo' angles).
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Feb%202009/IMG_0065.jpg
Notice that there is no more "webbing" to restrict the movement or placement of the radiator.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/Feb%202009/IMG_0066.jpg

vex

02-25-2009, 12:38 AM

Well I just ordered a 6PI large street port template and the 6PI inserts from pineapple racing and they should be here by either the end of the week or sometime next week.

Once I break apart the last bit of the engine (the lock bolt is still giving me trouble and the little pulley thing is still giving me some trouble) down and pull the rotor and inspect the iron and housing I'll order the rebuild kit and apex seals from atkins and start the process of porting and building it to handle 2-300 hp. :D

vex

03-03-2009, 04:23 PM

Got a few parts that came in the mail. Some for modification of the engine, but most for the exhaust construction coming up. Here are some pictures of everything I received.

The parts ORGY:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0068.jpg

Large Street Port Template:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0069.jpg

6PI Inserts (yes... for a turbo project):
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0070.jpg

SS 3in Flex Tube:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0071.jpg

SS O2 Bungs:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0072.jpg

SS Magnaflow 2.5in in/out-let perforated tube construction:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0073.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0074.jpg

WE3RX7

03-06-2009, 03:36 PM

Nice!

Should be fun getting all that welded up and ready to install!

vex

03-08-2009, 02:40 AM

Nice!

Should be fun getting all that welded up and ready to install!

I'm looking forward to it. I'll have to borrow someone's TIG and get in touch with a local welder. I'm honestly looking forward to piecing this exhaust together. On CCVT I'm now known as a stainless whore (the entire exhaust is stainless--even the O2 bungs).

vex

03-09-2009, 01:16 AM

Here's the ported throttle body. I removed secondary throttle plates (and the associated hardware) and ported it a little bit. I didn't polish it as I just got lazy... what can I say. It won't take much for me to polish it up better but figure I might as well put it all back together.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0075.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0076.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0077.jpg

TitaniumTT

03-09-2009, 12:27 PM

are you going to plug the bores for the removed shaft?

vex

03-09-2009, 12:37 PM

are you going to plug the bores for the removed shaft?

Already did with epoxy. I would have gotten a friend to fill it with some aluminum but trying to find a TIG welder during spring break is rather difficult.

vex

03-09-2009, 10:09 PM

Did a little more work:

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/0309091925.jpg
Installed 6-Port Induction Inserts.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/0309091926.jpg
Finished cleaning all the housings and irons.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/0309091926a.jpg
Found the limit of increasing the port opening of the upper intake. It's an 1/8"
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/0309091927.jpg
Pile of stuff that came off the car and will either be sold, scrapped, or re-installed (like the water pump and housing)
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/0309091927a.jpg
Some more.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/0309091928.jpg
New parts to be installed.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/0309091929.jpg
Oil Pan prepped for welding the oil return bung for the turbo.

I'm still a little curious on what I should do with the BAC. Should I keep it? Should I scrap it? I just don't know. I'm tempted to just scrap it and have a friend either weld it shut or I go get a block off plate cut for it. I just don't know. Any suggestions?

TitaniumTT

03-10-2009, 05:15 AM

Keep it.

vex

03-10-2009, 09:40 AM

Well it's decided then. I'll keep it.

Got the turbo to v-band adapter.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0078.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0079.jpg

Will probably hook it up to the turbo today.

...Well, went and tried to hook it up to the turbo today and it's the wrong size adapter. No fear though, I called atp and they'll let me exchange the adapter for another one. Hopefully this time it will be the correct size.

WE3RX7

03-10-2009, 01:51 PM

You'll want the BAC, I know you already decided to keep it, but I'm just giving you more reasons too! Its worth having if you have any accessories on the car at all....

Hurry up and rebuild that motor already!

vex

03-10-2009, 03:43 PM

lol, I just ordered the seals today. Should be here thurs/friday. Will hopefully start and finish porting the day before the seals arrive, rebuild on the following day. should be fun.

vex

03-10-2009, 11:23 PM

I'm waiting for the pictures to be pulled from my phone and I'll be posting them shortly. I got some welding done on the exhaust which is nice to get started. I've got the lower portion of the down pipe and billow welded up, a portion of the Y-Pipe, and welded some pipe to the resonator.

To top it off I got delivery of some layout fluid so I'll be able to start porting the irons tomorrow. On top of that all the seals for the rebuild are being shipped out to me as are all the stainless steel flanges.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/0310092305.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/0310092237a.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/0310092236.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/0310092237.jpg

TitaniumTT

03-11-2009, 11:58 AM

Where did that flex pipe come from and how flexible is it? The 4" I have isn't flexible enough so when the motor goes back in, I'll be cutting it off and welding on a new one.

vex

03-11-2009, 04:01 PM

The flex pipe is a 6" that came from performance-curve.com It's a local shop (located in roanoke,va). Pretty good deal from what I remember. Let me dig up the actual link to the specific part.

http://www.performance-curve.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=41

The one I got was for 28 bucks.

vex

03-11-2009, 11:38 PM

Another day, another time spent grinding, cutting, and well... making tons of dust. I altered the Lower Intake Manifold (LIM) to give more room for the turbo without sacrificing the 6PI actuation. I also ported my junk iron for practice. It's a lot easier than I thought it would be. I would still like some pointers on porting if anyone has any they'd like to share. I'm not too sure if I should port/polish the runner to the new port shape. The shape itself isn't much bigger and I don't really see any benefit in doing that.... Maybe on the intermediate housing, but we'll see. Well--here's some pictures.

Here's what the LIM started as:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0080.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0081.jpg
Here's about half way through shaving it.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0084.jpg
And this is pretty much done.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0094.jpg
Here's my port job on the junk iron:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0082.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0083.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0085.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0086.jpg
Ported
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0087.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0088.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0089.jpg
I didn't really have time to port the good irons so I prepped them for porting:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0093.jpg
After that I went ahead and cut some of the metal stock I bought today to get it prepped and ready for welding and replacing the bent stock cross member:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0090.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0091.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0092.jpg
The angle iron doesn't have any tape holding it up. The cut is just right enough to have the interference hold it up. It's also level and straight. It's ready for welding.

TitaniumTT

03-11-2009, 11:47 PM

Porting - take your time. You can always take more off. A little difficult to put it back.
Try to get the edges of the port a little more strait and soft
The runners you should finish off with some 220 grit rolls, and then the flapper. I haven't ported anything in YEARS some I'm sure someone whos done it more regularily could chime in.

Although next week I will be doing all my porting work sooooooooo.

vex

03-14-2009, 11:36 PM

Well I ported the irons. Did an okay job. The ports are clean and for the most part are about as close to the markings of the template as I'm comfortable doing by carbide bit. I've beveled the edges to soften them out a little bit using a jewelers file. I don't think they're going to do any damage to any seals that pass by them. Whether it be side seals or corner seals.

I cleaned the rotors too by hand and I noticed something peculiar. One rotor has smooth faces, the other has a textured face. Did Mazda alter how they did rotors one year compared to another? I also removed all seals and springs from the rotors and prepped the seal locations for seals. All in all I think I'm just about ready to start rebuilding the engine. Lets see if I can actually put it all together without issues. :D Here's hopin'.

I also received in the mail today a package full of stainless steel flanges and a dump tube for the waste gate. I will probably watch my TIG welding friend make works of art out of them. A word on the flanges. They're not water jet cut or laser cut. They seem to be cast stainless steel and then put through a machining process. Although the thickness is .5" there is what seems to be a severe lack of symmetry on the 3 hole flanges. The V-band flanges however seem quite good on quality. The upper portion of the down pipe should be welded up as well tomorrow.

Speaking of welding it looks like tomorrow is going to be a very big welding day. I have the replacement cross member that will need to be welded up. The hood support that will be welded up as well, and to top it all off I have a hole in my oil pan for the oil return line from the turbo that's going to have a bung welded to it.

While this is all going on I plan on rebuilding the engine or at the very least getting it started. I'd love to have it completely assembled and ready to be installed with the oil pan and what not by the end of the night--though I won't be installing it until after I paint the engine bay... man, there's no rest for this project.

Pictures will for tomorrow will be forthcoming at some point I'm sure.

vex

03-15-2009, 11:43 PM

well engine didn't get put back together because I just noticed these:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0100.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0101.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0102.jpg

Both stationary bearings are shot. Already shot a PM to Atkins about replacing them with stock ones since the 3 window bearing is too expensive for me at the moment.

However we did get a lot of welding done:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0105.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0106.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0107.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0108.jpg

That new cross member has replaced my bent to hell one and is sturdy enough to hold my full weight (175 lbs). I still have to cut some of it off to allow more breathing room for the oil cooler, but that location for the cross member supports the intercooler as well as the oil cooler. It's coming together.

vex

03-21-2009, 09:39 PM

Well, tried my hand at welding for the first time today. I finally got the hang of Flux core mig welding by the time I had put so much pigeon crap on the piece that it looked like it had some major... Herpes....

We hit it with a flap disk for a few and then put some glaze on it and just went to town with the por15. I don't really care what the engine bay looks like so much as I want it protected. If I had as much time as I want I would have removed everything from the engine bay and just did it. Unfortunately I didn't, and as such I went ahead and just POR15 every thing. I will probably go back and touch it up a little bit on monday but for the most part the engine bay is done.

TitaniumTT

03-22-2009, 12:49 AM

vex

03-22-2009, 01:46 AM

So should we start an official race to see who gets done first? Looks good so far.

Why the flux core? I HATE flux core welding. Even if I'm doing it outside, I shield as much breeze as I can with my body or hands, and crank the gas up. I can't stand flux core welding

First time welding. Went for what would be the easiest. I started getting the hang of it and actually doing decent welds by the end of it. I was trying to weld the really thin steel and well, it took me a little practice to figure out how to not burn through the steel. This was purely cosmetic and not structural so I thought it save to at least attempt it.

As for the race... Don't tempt me. Bad things happen when I race to finish something. I'm already perturbed in my time line of the engine bay. Some things are not perfect, but I'm having to make up time with doing a shoddy paint job (by that I mean in-ability to actually remove all clips and plastic pieces prior to paint, removal of the passenger harness, etc). Also my help put too much paint on per coat so it started running. I'm going to have to touch those up on monday or so. sigh...

I'm hoping to actually start the original fabrication process for the turbo manifold and exhaust on monday. I'm still waiting to hear back from ATP about the exchange of goods I sent in. I also have to figure out a way to enlarge the y-pipe piece to accept a 3-in pipe instead of a 2.5in. It's a little late to send it back and get an exchange to a 3-in to 2 2.5-in y-pipe, so I'm thinking I may reduce the entrance pipe and cut a transition piece to actually be welded in place of the original pipe.

If it all goes well, and I'm able to get the services of a welder as well as all the materials I need; I hope to be finished by the end of the week. I doubt that will happen though. We shall see.

WE3RX7

03-23-2009, 10:34 AM

Get some pics up of the bay when you can, I'm eager to see it!

I think this is the year of the FC. I'm glad there are good FC guys in this group... should make for a fun ROTM next year though :)

vex

03-25-2009, 10:25 AM

Get some pics up of the bay when you can, I'm eager to see it!

I think this is the year of the FC. I'm glad there are good FC guys in this group... should make for a fun ROTM next year though :)

I'll do what I can. My camera sucks balls though and the bay looks like ass (runs, drips, etc everywhere).

As for the ROTM, i highly doubt I'd even be a competitor. Too many mismatched body panels.

vex

03-28-2009, 10:08 PM

Got to go to the garage today for about 20 minutes. I was able to do a little work, but nothing extreme. I was able to verify that the larger adapter for Vband will work with my turbo but requires slight modification to the mounting holes (I'll snap a picture of it next time i'm out there). I also was able to verify that the V-Band ebay specials I picked up are not exactly the correct size for the internal (they're a little under). I figure I may either bevel or remove enough material to make either a smooth transition or a straight shot through. But there's a good 1/4" reduction (total, about 1/8" all round). Granted it would make the exhaust flow turbulent I just don't feel like throwing in more unknowns right after the turbo.

I also have No Limit Industries working on my fuel rails and hope to see those in the not too distant future. Didn't have time to fix up the engine anymore or set end shaft play--I however was able to identify 1 O-ring I didn't see before. It was for the CAS. Go figure. I still need to figure out some of the other O-rings and I'll ask about them when I post the picture.

Well, with out further delay here's some pictures that were requested:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0110.jpg
What's the Oring next to the CAS one? And what about all those little ones? I imagine the two larger ones are for the oil pedestal. I know the nylon one is for the front cover. hmmm.....
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0111.jpg
New oil pan. Check out the new oil return flange that's been welded on there.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0112.jpg
Engine bay after paint. It's quite the contrast to what it once was.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/March%202009/IMG_0113.jpg
Here's my first welding experience after it's been painted over. What do you think? Pretty trashy huh? Yeah, that's what I think too.

Max777

03-29-2009, 01:19 PM

Umm, as far as the orings, the oval one is the OMP, then there is the CAS one is the thick big one. The two larger ones look odd, they seem a little thin to be the filter pedistal, and I have no clue about the small ones.

What do the seals for the long tension bolts look like? Is it possible that the small orings go where the dowels are? I vaugely remember finding orings in that area when I dis-assembled my old S5 13B n/a.

PS: I'm still a newb at this, i hope others can give more info.

vex

03-29-2009, 01:23 PM

Already installed the Dowel o-rings as well as the tension bolt ones, so I'm not too sure about those little ones either. I haven't taken off the OMP so that's probably why I didn't see an o-ring of the similar type.

WE3RX7

03-29-2009, 08:37 PM

Max was right - the oval one is for your OMP. The smaller ones do look like dowel o-rings, but if you've got all those in place - I'm not entirely sure off hand, it'll take me a min to think about it (maybe on the front cover where the tension bolts go through, I'm not sure).

The other orings may go to the oil pick up tube in your pan. I believe there is one o-ring there at least.

I haven't pulled apart an NA engine in a while either.... although, they shouldn't be much different.

Max777

03-30-2009, 12:15 AM

No, the oil pickup tube uses a gasket.

vex

04-01-2009, 10:47 AM

After much consideration I have decided to change the way I'm going with this project. I've been able to locate a nice LS9 for not at all that much and have decided that I'm just going to go ahead and drop that motor in instead of my triangle powered monstrosity. I still plan on being done within the next two weeks or so, but we'll see. Anyways here's a few pictures:

APRIL FOOLS!

WE3RX7

04-01-2009, 12:54 PM

seriously, i would have killed you, lol....

lt1_fd3s

04-01-2009, 01:09 PM

I don't see any pics =[

vex

04-01-2009, 10:00 PM

Sorry, I'll take pics next time I'm up there. I have the engine about 95% together right now. I put in the oil pan, the sensors and the front cover. I have found out however that the coolant temp sensor on the S5 is not compatible with the S4 temp sensor. So i'm going to have to re-do that part of the harness. No biggie. I still have to get the pilot bearing out and replace it. Then the engine will be going back into the car for final assembly and fabrication of the turbo manifold. I do have one question before I do this however. At what location should the front Key be (or rear key for that matter) be in relation to the markings on the pulley? I have the yellow mark 90*'s from the key I believe, but I couldn't find the procedure to ensure it was accurate in the FSM portion I had with me. Any help on that front?

I also have started the process of getting the gauges installed. The oil cooler is about 90% hung, need to redrill a hole because my help can't drill straight. Once that's in place I'll be able to go ahead and start working on making some ss -10 oil lines. Should be good.

TitaniumTT

04-02-2009, 08:34 AM

vex

04-02-2009, 10:01 AM

When the keyway is @ 270*, or pointing towards the exhaust ports on a 90* angle, the engine is @ TDC. There are no markings on the pulley for 0* so I made one. There is nothing in the FSM about checking the timing/pulley/hub becuase the pulleys and hubs are a matched set. They are also matched to the front cover. Basically when you start interchanging pulleys and hubs and front covers, you run into potential timing mark problems. This is something that I had never heard about until recently but Classic Auto knows all about it as well.

There's not going to be anything about it in the FSM because it's not something that can be adjusted. The hub has a key and can only go one way. The bolts for the pulley are offset, so it can only go one way. Basically there is no adjustment in there so the factory wouldn't cover any adjustment becuase, well, there is none. Mazda probably also didn't think people would be interchanging so many parts either which is why they are all slightly different. Hell, if you order a new front pulley from the dealer, you get a new hub as well.

I'm surprised that it's not more well known. A few degrees of timing is the difference between a great running engine and a pile of door stops/paperweights. I would be VERY careful with the pulley/hub/front cover combo.

I myself am using an FD pulley (no timing marks) with an RE hub and front cover. What I did was transfer marks from the RE pulley to the FD pulley and then triple check to make sure everything is on the up & up..

About the small o-rings -
the pick-up tube uses a gasket
the dowels or tension bolts don't go into the front cover so it can't be those

I'm thinking it's the two small o-rings that are under the oil-filter pedastal

Thanks TTT. I didn't know the bolts were offset and could only be put on one way. I haven't swapped any pulleys or anything so I'll double check how the pulley's are mated to the hub (While I was attempting to remove the Eccentric Bolt the rim got damaged so in order to keep things balanced I removed the rim). I think I set it up right and will be able to double check probably tomorrow when I pull the Pilot Bearing too.

For convience I marked on the hub where the Key is so I'll be able to rotate it to the exhaust ports and it will be at TDC. I'll check to see if the markings line up and then I'll either adjust the pulley's or leave 'em 'cause I got lucky.

I'll also try to snap a few pictures for everyone. Sorry I've been slacking so much on this.

lt1_fd3s

04-02-2009, 10:25 AM

vex

04-02-2009, 10:46 AM

http://image.corvettefever.com/f/9388840/corp_0712w_01_z+2009_corvette_ZR1_LS9_engine+.jpg
http://cache.jalopnik.com/cars/assets/resources/2007/12/Chevy%20Corvette%20ZR1%20LS9%20Engine.jpg
http://jalopnik.com/5069977/zr1-in-a-box-gm-performance-parts-carting-ls9-crate-engine-to-sema

Sorry, it's a little out of my pricing potential

lt1_fd3s

04-02-2009, 11:19 AM

^^ sweet!!!

haha...ok, back to your build now. will it be ready for DGRR?

vex

04-02-2009, 11:29 AM

^^ sweet!!!

haha...ok, back to your build now. will it be ready for DGRR?

Probably not. I won't even have the motor broken in by then.

WE3RX7

04-02-2009, 09:52 PM

You going to go to DGRR? I'm heading down early Friday...

vex

04-03-2009, 07:27 AM

You going to go to DGRR? I'm heading down early Friday...

no car. My 7 still doesn't have the engine back in, and the welder i've been using is staying pretty busy. I'd like to go, but I also need to get the car done and out of the guys garage I'm in. This project is already 1 week over my time estimate since I had to rebuild the engine.

vex

04-03-2009, 05:21 PM

My engine is ready to be put back in except for the stupid pilot bearing. Anyone have any tricks to get it off/out? I'm using the Advance borrow tool they have, and it's destroyed what was left in the shaft, but still left the outer race of the bearing. I have a slide hammer, but don't have the attachment. I've been able to get the bearing out twice before using the advance tool, but out of 3 hours of working with it, it hasn't budged more than a few fractions of a mm.

vex

04-04-2009, 09:52 PM

Engine and tranny and everything is buttoned up and ready for fabrication mockups. I may be able to start the car come the end of the week if I get delivery of a few items. However that's completely dependent on MazdaTrix who is notorious for having delayed shipping.

WE3RX7

04-05-2009, 09:31 PM

vex

04-06-2009, 11:15 AM

So were you able to get the pilot bearing tool out?

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you when you fire it up.

Side note, I bougth a home in Culpeper last month so you'll have to bring the car by when we do a rotary BBQ or something...

For sure. I got the bearing out and everything. Used a diegrinder which did the job in seconds. Spilled about 1/2-1 qrt of tranny fluid on the floor though when I was putting it all back in. I'll have to remember to fill it back up. I ran some wire for the gauges, will finish installing them soon, and hopefully get more parts I need soon. I may go to homedepot/lowes and pick up some pipe for the turbo manifold and begin construction of it.

I'm quite curious on where I should put the turbo though. I can try to fit it under the intake manifold, or I could shove it a little forward and not try to fit everything underneath the manifold... it all depends I guess. I'll toy around with the idea, and see what happens. I'm going to try to mount the turbo as close as I can to limit my construction costs with the manifold.

WE3RX7

04-06-2009, 03:51 PM

vex

04-06-2009, 04:08 PM

Lots of thought needs to go into the manifold - IE: divided, undivided, equal length, log style, etc... all play a factor in the performance of the turbo. I'd keep it close if I were you though... seems like an easier task and you dont have to worry about cracking the manifold as much.

I can only keep it as close as I can physically implement it. Right now the limiting factors for the turbo mounting location are the 6PI actuators. I'll have to plan either sandwiching the cold side between the 6PI or the hotside, both have their positives and cons. Either way. It's going to prove to be an interesting ordeal.

vex

04-08-2009, 02:42 PM

Figured I'd get back and shoot some pictures.

Here's a mock up of the turbo manifold I'll be making.

It's not pretty, and it's not what I originally thought of how I would route the pipes. But after talking it over with a person more familiar with turbo modifications and finite space, he recommended this path for the turbo.

There's a few benefits with doing it this way. It provides an easy access to the turbo, better oil drainage, and not to mention easier routing of all the lines. There is even ability to theoretically move up to a bigger turbo if I ever so desire (though a T60-1 is plenty big right now, especially for an NA engine with a large street port). This allows the 6PI to remain intact and still allows the easy access and manipulation of the turbo.

The plan is to make this out of mild schedule 40 weld "L's" and be able to mount the turbo and access the bolts. The only down side to this setup is that it places the turbo fairly close to the brake line of the passenger front brakes. I do plan on protecting the lines before I do a wire/line tuck on the engine bay by either a heat deflector, protective wire wrap, or wrapping the brake line with some exhaust wrap (other possibilities may include a turbine blanket and wrapping the down pipe--though I'd prefer not to wrap the down pipe supplying me with the biggest temperature differential possible).

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/0408091544.jpg

vex

04-08-2009, 07:24 PM

Here's a digital mock up. It's not super accurate, but accurate enough for the what it needs:

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/TurboManifoldV2.gif
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/TurboManifoldV22.gif

Didn't put in the turbo flange, but used the pipe run as best as I could. I don't think the up shot to the turbo will actually be as pig pictured there. Maybe two inches shorter.

WE3RX7

04-08-2009, 09:20 PM

You can also move the brake lines. They are cheap enough to make new ones if needed.

Also, I'm sure you've thought of it, but anticipate bracing those runners together...

vex

04-08-2009, 09:30 PM

You can also move the brake lines. They are cheap enough to make new ones if needed.
I suppose I could do that. But I don't know how I'd want to run the line... just don't know.

Also, I'm sure you've thought of it, but anticipate bracing those runners together...
Already planning on it. I'm making it with schedule 40 which is already pretty good and strong by itself, any bracing I put on it will more than likely be mated to the flange. Should be quite the turbo manifold when done.

WE3RX7

04-08-2009, 10:03 PM

Yea, schedule 40 is good, but the more weight you hang out over those bends over time will start to show signs of giving out...

Cant wait to see it when its done though...

vex

04-10-2009, 08:17 PM

Yea, schedule 40 is good, but the more weight you hang out over those bends over time will start to show signs of giving out...

Cant wait to see it when its done though...

Just picked up the weld Els today. Should be good. Still have to locate some bungs for the NPT of the thermocouples which i'll be getting put on there too. I'm planning on getting them coated by a guy in my local car club. Should be good.

Today was a stainless steel line day. I was able to pick up the -10AN for the oil cooler and with some help get them all connected. I took some pictures so check 'em out. Around this same time I realized that my fuel lines are not -8AN but -6AN talk about bad luck. Hopefully Todd hasn't already welded the -8 bungs to the fuel rails, but if he did I don't think it will be too much trouble to just put on an adapter for -6. We'll see though. But here are some pictures:

When I dropped in the engine:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/IMG_0114.jpg
Notice the oil return flange. It's going to be a fun day when I actually can finally hook that up.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/IMG_0115.jpg
The turbo with the V-Band adapter mounted to it with the V-Band flange waiting for welding.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/IMG_0116.jpg
Prepping for figuring the turbo. My original intent was to mount the turbo very close to the stock location and just keep it as straight as possible. Didn't work out as you can see from the previous post.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/IMG_0117.jpg
Oil Cooler Lines. That's a 120 on the top, a 90 on the side. -10AN line. Not bad for $70. :)

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/IMG_0118.jpg
Here's the beginning of my parallel fuel system. Should be feeding some 1200 cc/min and some 720 cc/min (I think, I'll have to double check the flow rates on the injectors). Should be enough fuel for my project. Anyone want to guess how much Horse power I'll make once I finally break the engine in and get it tuned?

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/IMG_0119.jpg
Backside of the engine. Simple 90 and shoots forward. It's actually a much cleaner install than the stock lines and I'm surprised I didn't do this sooner.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/IMG_0120.jpg
Here's the oil cooler mounted and placed a few inches forward of the original position. If you look closely I cut out a portion of the angle iron to allow an additional inch of breathing room to the cooler.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/IMG_0121.jpg
A better angle of the new lower oil cooler line.

vex

04-11-2009, 02:15 AM

Well, now that I have the components to build the new manifold I went ahead and made it slightly more accurate. Honestly, I'm quite happy with how it turned out except for the transition component. Never mind that. But any suggestions on the manifold design thus far?

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/TurboManifoldV1.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/TurboManifoldV12.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/TurboManifoldV13.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/TurboManifoldV14.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/TurboManifoldV15.jpg

classicauto

04-11-2009, 01:34 PM

Looks very similar to the A-spec FC manifold. Personally, I'd locate the wastegate runners closer to the tubrine. Looks decent though. How large of primaries are you going to run? They look pretty beefy in the renderings.

vex

04-11-2009, 03:38 PM

Schedule 40 all the way around. 2in diameter on the primary runners, 1.5 in on the wastegate side. Can't really move them up since they'd start interfering with the 6PI actuators and down pipe. I did that rendering as accurately as possible. I'm re-thinking the transition piece however between the runners and the turbine inlet flange. I thought of a much easier and nicer looking transition to do it. may even prove to be more compact.

Something I'm still trying to figure out is how to do a stress analysis on the manifold assembly to see if I'll need to incorporate bracing in it.

Eatmyclutch

04-11-2009, 06:31 PM

wow Have fun with yore project.

I just saw the list of parts hah

Good luck.

vex

04-11-2009, 07:01 PM

wow Have fun with yore project.

I just saw the list of parts hah

Good luck.

Post number 1? lol, there was sooo much more to the planning than that page. I'd have to dig it up again, but I think I had 1 work book with different spreadsheets specific to that portion of the build ie: oil, cooling, induction, exhaust, etc.

classicauto

04-13-2009, 01:02 PM

I would run a little smaller primaries personally, something in the 1.75" flavour. 2" is pretty large, but it shouldn't hurt that much.

As far as interfering with your actuators, without really holding it up I'd have to go by what you're saying, but I really think you'd benefit in the boost control department from locating them closer to the turbine. Even if the height from the primaries didn't change, but you just rotated the runners 90* to face the primaries where they enter the turbine, you may be able to make them fit.

I wouldn't think you'll need much bracing, that manifold is pretty short, and with some heavy wall stainless it will be pretty damn stout.

vex

04-13-2009, 01:13 PM

I would run a little smaller primaries personally, something in the 1.75" flavour. 2" is pretty large, but it shouldn't hurt that much.A little too late now though. I already picked up the materials for it. Honestly I don't think the exhaust gas flow will slow down that much compared to the two, but I may be mistaken. A change in area of less than 1 sq in isn't all that big.
As far as interfering with your actuators, without really holding it up I'd have to go by what you're saying, but I really think you'd benefit in the boost control department from locating them closer to the turbine. Even if the height from the primaries didn't change, but you just rotated the runners 90* to face the primaries where they enter the turbine, you may be able to make them fit. I really doubt I'll be able to make them fit on the upper side of things without hitting interference from the 6PI actuators. I may be able to have enough room since they're low enough on the profile to sit on the underside of the 90* bend. Unfortunately this means that a lot of the welds would be exposed to the direct exhaust temperature. I honestly don't think that will hold up too well. Consequently the only other option would be to mount a 90* on the collector angle it directly down so it by-passes the primaries all together and then have another 90* angled towards the rear of the car. I can only think that a bad idea by the moment arm placed on the manifold. There's suddenly independent primaries without the additional bracing that the wastegate runners provided before. Though it may be asinine to worry about since the primaries are so thick.

I wouldn't think you'll need much bracing, that manifold is pretty short, and with some heavy wall stainless it will be pretty damn stout.
I picked up mild, and should still be as stout. The stainless pieces I was looking at were about 2 to 3 times as expensive. A little out of the price range of this build.

vex

04-13-2009, 09:19 PM

Finished welding up the primaries just prior to the collector today. I heart my friends TIG. I also started the wastegate runner. Trying to cut a 90* to fit onto a pipe mid-way through is quite difficult. I still have a few cuts to make before I hit it with a die-grinder. I also well need to drill holes and hit the wastegate runner with a die-grinder once I finalize the position of the exits. There really isn't any room at all to run the wastegate runner just below the collector as it does interfere a lot with the actuators, and there's no room to mount them on the outside of the bend near the collector as it will hit the strut tower and/or the frame. The only other option would be to mount the wastegate runner on the underside of the manifold, and there's really no point to that especially with how compact the manifold already is.

vex

04-16-2009, 02:36 PM

Pulled a 24 hour shop night. Got a lot accomplished. Will post pictures later today.

vex

04-16-2009, 06:50 PM

Well, here's the pictures. I spent all last night working on the car and getting the turbo manifold put together/mocked up. So I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

After the primaries were welded up:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0415092014.jpg
Notice that there is no room for the Wastegate runner to be mounted on top of the primaries:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0415092014a.jpg
So we put them on the bottom:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0415092225.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0415092225a.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0415092026.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0415092026a.jpg
Making of the collector:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0415092247.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0416090620.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0416090620a.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0416090620b.jpg
Well, I tacked the collector and the flange together and checked for interference and did a mock fitting:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0416091200.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0416091200a.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0416091401.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0416091402.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0416091402a.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0416091403.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0416091404.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/April%202009/0416091404a.jpg

misthael

04-16-2009, 07:59 PM

I'm definitely not an expert, or anywhere near, as far as welding goes but those welds look really really good to me. Very clean. Nice build.

vex

04-16-2009, 09:23 PM

I'm definitely not an expert, or anywhere near, as far as welding goes but those welds look really really good to me. Very clean. Nice build.

The Joys of Tig. Honestly those were done by my friend who has a shop next door and his work is top notch. He's going to school to be a welder and is teaching me to use a Tig which by the way is TIG>>>>>>>>>>>>>>MIG. If you look closely at the collector portion of the manifold you'll see my handy work with the MIG (Flux Core). It looks like complete ass. But it was the best I could do at 6 AM.

Oh and TTT: I'm definitely going to put in the money for a miller tig. I'm hooked. Sooooo much easier than Flux Core, but can't fill the gaps I can with Flux core. But so much less clean up.

vex

04-29-2009, 09:10 PM

Okay, quick update. There aren't many pictures right now because well... I've been stuck trying to get bluetooth to connect to my phone to transfer the files over. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

Today I finished up the fuel system. My injectors are installed. 900cc/min primaries and 1360cc/min secondaries. I also finished up my fuel lines. Spent 60 bones getting some -6AN fittings to make everything work. It does, and looks half way decent. I also hacked up my AFM/throttle body pipe to connect to the turbo inlet and the AFM (Since RTek still haven't released the AFM delete yet) but in doing so doesn't leave much of any room to connect any sort of filter. I may have to figure something out but at least to drive it or start the break in process I can leave it as is. I also figured out the oil drain size and length I need, and have a few small details to work out. I also did the base hook up of both the EGT's and the Boost gauge. The EGT's have a weird hook up. You do not hook them up to an ignition source or 12v switched power like you do with the boost gauge, you actually hook them up to an always on 12v constant line. Apparently it knows when you turn the key on or off just by the voltage drop when you switch the car to acc.

What's still left for me to do is:
get BOV flange welded to charge piping.
finish exhaust
finish manifold
Finish wiring power to the ProSport gauges
finish wiring in the LC-1 (no need for an op-amp circuit, switch, etc--just won't be running NB)
hook up oil drain hose
install manifold
install oil injectors
prime engine
stab CAS (anyone want to offer the basic procedure to do that?--I think I know how, but just would like to be safe)
install 1.75-1.5 T fitting for radiator
prime fuel system
check for leaks
crank engine

Think I can get those done in a day? I think I can!

WE3RX7

04-29-2009, 09:19 PM

vex

04-29-2009, 09:55 PM

Great progress man...

Honestly, the turbo looks tight but it also looks at home :)

Its hard to tell on the photos, but does it seem like you'll have any trouble with the downpipe clearing the actuators?

You can also dump the TID in front of the radiator if you dont mind a little cutting, etc. At least in there you may have more room for an air filter.

The CAS is simple, line up the marks on the pulles and line up the mark on the CAS body to the gear and you should be set. Provided you put the pulley on correctly :)
Pulley's on correctly... but I have two different colors/marks on the pulley (not on opposite ends mind you, but fairly close together). That's what I thought I needed to do, but wasn't sure. Now i have to figure out which mark is TDC and which one is not. :lol:

The down pipe clears the actuators without issue, but since my original plans called for the wastegate to be on top of the primaries I now have interference with where I would like to have mounted my wastegate. I'm just going to end up welding in an angle and mounting the wastegate that way and running an open dump... at least for awhile. As for the filter I don't mind running it infront of the radiator, but I don't exactly have a TID that has those bends. This is an NA tube that I hacked up. I may get lucky and find some 3inch pipe or something and just hook up some couplers to it--we'll see.

WE3RX7

04-30-2009, 01:23 PM

Honestly, I have quite a bit of polished tubing, couplers, etc from my years of building IC pipes and CAI on my cars, lol... You're more than welcome to some of it if you need it. I think I actually have a 3" pipe somewhere, but most of its 2.25" (for a mazdaspeed protege).

As for those marks, you should have a yellow one and a red one right? Yellow is for leading, red is for trailing. Line the yellow one up w/ the pin on the front cover, then match up the CAS marks and drop it in.

vex

04-30-2009, 02:20 PM

sweet. Thanks!

I would definitely appreciate a 3" tube if you have it. In the meantime I'm going to have to figure out how to route this bad boy so I don't run it on the road without a filter.

vex

05-02-2009, 08:46 PM

Had to cut out of the garage early today to finish a project that is due in two hours (finished with two hours to spare ;)). In the hours that I did work at the garage I found out something interesting:

The ring on the hub for the pulleys is sort of important to keep the pulleys from being eccentric in orbit. I corrected it as best as I could (hacked an adapter pieces, shoved them together and wrapped with tape). The adapter sat inside the hub and was snug. The outside was larger and was snug on the pulleys. Hopefully this will be enough to not cause significant problems. It's about as good as it's going to get.

I was also able to build oil pressure and begin aluminum welding of the intercooler, charge piping, and a few other goodies. I hope to be done welding aluminum tomorrow and will hopefully have the entire exhaust done as well. Once those are all welded together I should be able to fill the tank with gas, top off the oil and coolant, and fire her up. All the gauges are installed and zeroed out. I'm getting exceptional close.

I still need to get an adapter piece for the radiator. I'm having a tremendous time trying to find a 1.5-1.75 inch adapter tee fitting with a 5/8in piece to hook in for the heater line.

If anyone knows of a location to get one hit it.

vex

05-10-2009, 10:17 PM

It has started and runs! It purrs like an angry cat... well, that might just be because I don't have my exhaust finished. I still have a little work to do with the charge piping (so if you look closely you'll notice that I don't have a blow-off valve on that piping, and I couldn't shut the hood if I wanted to. It's temporary, i'm working on getting some aluminum pipe welded to ensure a tight fit).

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/May%202009/th_0510091709.jpg (http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/May%202009/?action=view&current=0510091709.flv)
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/May%202009/0510091409.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/May%202009/0510091705.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/May%202009/0510091705a.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/May%202009/0510091705b.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/May%202009/0510091814.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/lax-rotor/May%202009/0510091814a.jpg

WE3RX7

05-11-2009, 08:57 AM

This is great man - cant wait to see the car again.

Go finish that fab work and bring it to culpeper :)

vex

05-14-2009, 01:15 AM

Well, brought her home today on a rough tune. Had to richen it up alot which is surprising (or not if you think about it). I'm aiming for 12's which I'm pretty good at seeing right now. I start to get into the low to mid 13's which is kind of concerning to me, but will be taking care of that tomorrow. I hope to get my AFR datalogging troubles taken care of sooner rather than later to ensure tuning accuracy.

As for the exhaust note, it's louder than stock... that's for sure. But it's actually quite nice. Very deep, the higher the revs, the quieter it gets (3000rpm ceiling).

Had a bit of a scare when I first took her out: I was going up the hill near the shop and almost at the top the car just dies. No stumble, no stutter, just dies. Had power, could crank. It was interesting to say the least. So I back it down in neutral and I don't see any leaks, puddles, anything that would suggest something horrible, so I think about it for a few seconds and realize it sounds like a huge vacuum leak. Light bulb dings, I go off and start looking at all the couplers. I know I tightened all of them... except, one. It was the 90* coming off the turbo that slipped off. Easy fix, just popped it back on and tightened it up and I was good to go.

Still have a few things to figure out, but all in all it looks like this project is done until some later date (after I get hitched).

WE3RX7

05-14-2009, 10:55 AM

Thats awesome man, really looking forward to seeing it (in the daylight) next time your in culpeper...

vex

05-14-2009, 06:57 PM

Thats awesome man, really looking forward to seeing it (in the daylight) next time your in culpeper...

I should be up that way this weekend if everything goes as planned. You can point and laugh at my "air filter" and help me actually make a more permanent solution (if you have a 3" 90* bend, it would help out ALOT). I'll also need to pick up an adapter for the barn door since RTek still hasn't released their AFM delete yet.

TitaniumTT

05-14-2009, 10:25 PM

Looking good man. Great job on the mani. Looks top notch.

Time to ditch that Rtek and get a real EMS ;) I'm thinking something that starts with an "M" and ends in "otec"

As for the welder, I love my Millers, both of them have served me very well. I generally only TIG AL as my MIG welds tend to look like, and have the penetration characteristics of TIG welds anyway. Not bragging, just saying my MIG welded steel > my TIG welded steel. After that start saving for a Plasma. You'll wonder how you ever lived without it.

vex

05-14-2009, 10:55 PM

Looking good man. Great job on the mani. Looks top notch. Yeah, I like it. The mani kind of goes all to hell with the waste gate portion though, which brings down the cool points. But at the time I was wanting out of the garage. Everyday for 3 months I was working on that car. Such a huge PITA. But I learned so much.

Time to ditch that Rtek and get a real EMS ;) I'm thinking something that starts with an "M" and ends in "otec"
Soon. I have a few other things to take care of first. 1 getting hitched, then honeymoonin' it up. Then school and what not. I will probably do the Motec soon though... maybe a year or two depending on how much cash I can put away. 4k+ is a lot to spend on a magic box. But I imagine I'll do it and the tube+wire tuck at the same time. That's going to really be a PITA. :lol: we'll see when I actually get around to it.

As for the welder, I love my Millers, both of them have served me very well. I generally only TIG AL as my MIG welds tend to look like, and have the penetration characteristics of TIG welds anyway. Not bragging, just saying my MIG welded steel > my TIG welded steel. After that start saving for a Plasma. You'll wonder how you ever lived without it.I thought about getting a MIG and doing with that, but after using TIG I have a real affinity for it. It's very similar to soldering and I like it a lot. Where as MIG I feel as though I get rushed when I start welding with it, not to mention having to go back over it with a grinder to get rid of the slag... though I did make the more difficult parts of the manifold with flux core... figure that one out? (it was 6am and I had been up since 7 the previous morning).

As for plasma... maybe. I'm thinking when I get a house and a garage, I'll build a workshop out back and build me a waterjet. I love being an engineer. :lol:

vex

05-31-2009, 03:57 PM

Well, finally got a decent air filter on the car. Went by pepboys and saw they had modular intake tubes and couplings for about 11-12 bucks a section. On top of that they had an AFM adapter for 15 bucks. So I picked that up lickity split and saved myself 100 bucks plus shipping. Granted, it's not the best quality in the world, but it's better than what I was running before... (:suspect: pillowcase:suspect:)

Talked to RTek recently about why I can't get above a specific RPM while in boost (since it's impossible for me to get above 4 grand without being in boost), and they have told me that it is extremely detrimental to run the MAP sensor for the NA in boost, and that I would need to pick up a TURBO ecu and MAP sensor and figure out the wiring to run everything proper. I'm looking more and more in to picking up a Motec, but at the same time I might be able to just pick up a Haltech/AEM and run a can bus (granted it won't be as awesome as a motec, but it does free up funds for other necessities that I would require for this project: Cannon plugs, electric AC, etc)

If however I manage to find a deal or can magically afford a motec, i'm definitely going with one. The only trouble is I don't know what M series to go for. M400... M800... Just don't know... lol

TitaniumTT

05-31-2009, 05:12 PM

vex

05-31-2009, 08:30 PM

Depends in how many outputs you need. I believe the inputs are the same through out the series, the difference is in the outputs. Make a list of how many you need,
Lambda
fan
fuel/ignition
tackh driver
boost control
BAC
Aux inj
one or two more maybe,
and then start filling in the blanks on the schematic. If you run out of outputs on a 400, start with a 6 If you run out on a 600, then it's time for an 800
Right, right, right. But I have to take in to account expandability with this system since I only ever want to buy one EMS for this car and be able to go from one set up to another without really having to give up what I'm used to or would want. I'll think more about it, but in the meantime it's in the back of my mind.

WE3RX7

06-01-2009, 08:08 AM

Haltechs are cheap and reliable too ;)

vex

06-01-2009, 09:21 AM

Haltechs are cheap and reliable too ;)

True that, but I don't know if I can get what I want with them or AEM or any other company right now. Though I have done a lot of reading and research with Motec, but if things go with how they look I may have another expense to add to my car.

I got pulled over today for inadequet exhaust. Granted my exhaust is loud, but by no means is it loud and annoying compared to the fart cannons. In all honesty it's quieter than my stock exhaust (at idle and cruise, but not during acceleration)that I have gotten a ticket for. I've driven in front of Alexandria/Fairfax cops and haven't gotten pulled... but I did get off quite nicely because the officer cut me a break. That being said, I'm wondering if there is a way to reduce noise levels without addition of new mufflers, or spending excess money to quiet it down for city driving.

classicauto

06-01-2009, 09:50 AM

ERECTIONmotive is also affordable and powerful :)

FWIW, I'd stay away from the AEM box, the software will make you want to blow your head off.

Two words for quick and easy quieting of the exhaust: Butt plug. Works awesome for noise, is quick to install and remove, but does limit the useage of the car while its in there. IE. don't go to the track with it in.

vex

06-01-2009, 12:08 PM

TitaniumTT

06-01-2009, 05:28 PM

Haltechs are cheap and reliable too ;)

They have know timing issues and the lower model ones leave TOOOOOO much to be desired in terms of the harnesses..... from the limited ones that I have seen. From what I understand about the E11's though, they flat out copied the Motec harness. This is from my ECU guy who is both a Haltech and a Motec dealer.

Got a link? I can't exactly start searching for "Butt Plug" during work hours.

:rofl::lol::rofl:

What do you have now in terms of exhaust? I'm running a Magnaflow "pre-silencer" which has one 3" in and 2 2.5" outs, and then two magnaflow cans that are 2.5" in/out. My exhaust is quiet. I actually really enjoy it. She snarls when all out but VERY quiet with a nice deep note when @ idle and cruise.

EJayCe996

06-01-2009, 05:51 PM

They have know timing issues and the lower model ones leave TOOOOOO much to be desired in terms of the harnesses..... from the limited ones that I have seen. From what I understand about the E11's though, they flat out copied the Motec harness. This is from my ECU guy who is both a Haltech and a Motec dealer.

:rofl::lol::rofl:

What do you have now in terms of exhaust? I'm running a Magnaflow "pre-silencer" which has one 3" in and 2 2.5" outs, and then two magnaflow cans that are 2.5" in/out. My exhaust is quiet. I actually really enjoy it. She snarls when all out but VERY quiet with a nice deep note when @ idle and cruise.

I demand a sound clip, I'm gonna modify my JIC twin bullet, it has a big resonator just before the y-pipe and I want to add two more mufflers/resonators, one on each pipe immediately after the split. The Fujitsubo has this setup, except the resonators are much smaller and there is ONE hard to find video of an FC with one pulling up by a camera in gear and it sounded GOOD.

vex

06-01-2009, 08:34 PM

They have know timing issues and the lower model ones leave TOOOOOO much to be desired in terms of the harnesses..... from the limited ones that I have seen. From what I understand about the E11's though, they flat out copied the Motec harness. This is from my ECU guy who is both a Haltech and a Motec dealer.

:rofl::lol::rofl:

What do you have now in terms of exhaust? I'm running a Magnaflow "pre-silencer" which has one 3" in and 2 2.5" outs, and then two magnaflow cans that are 2.5" in/out. My exhaust is quiet. I actually really enjoy it. She snarls when all out but VERY quiet with a nice deep note when @ idle and cruise.
I have almost the exact same thing and it sounds like ours are about the same in tone and sound. I have a racing beat resonator then two magnaflow 2.5in/out mufflers. At idle and cruise it's quite. at WOT or quick acceleration it's loud, but it's not like a fart cannon and not like a harley. But I'm looking for some inserts that are 2.5 in/out

TitaniumTT

06-01-2009, 11:13 PM

I demand a sound clip, I'm gonna modify my JIC twin bullet, it has a big resonator just before the y-pipe and I want to add two more mufflers/resonators, one on each pipe immediately after the split. The Fujitsubo has this setup, except the resonators are much smaller and there is ONE hard to find video of an FC with one pulling up by a camera in gear and it sounded GOOD.

:lol: well tonight I cleaned my rotors a little more....... With any luch the scumfucking spermburping INS co will decide tomorrow what they're going to do about the engine they owe me. Then a few weeks to get her back together and back on the dyno and hopefully be able to make the 06/18 Limerock Track day. I think the earliest sound clip we'll hear is on the dyno.... then a few in car lapping clips :reddevil:

I have almost the exact same thing and it sounds like ours are about the same in tone and sound. I have a racing beat resonator then two magnaflow 2.5in/out mufflers. At idle and cruise it's quite. at WOT or quick acceleration it's loud, but it's not like a fart cannon and not like a harley. But I'm looking for some inserts that are 2.5 in/out

Apexi maybe? Perhaps SummitRacing????

vex

06-02-2009, 07:35 AM

The only one that I can find that will fit my application:
http://www.carchemistry.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=18

Apexi only has 90mm to 115mm, and the 90mm is 1/2in too big.

TitaniumTT

06-02-2009, 08:32 AM

90/25.4" = 3.5" Maybe buy a 3.5" tip from summit for ~$20?

vex

06-02-2009, 09:20 AM

90/25.4" = 3.5" Maybe buy a 3.5" tip from summit for ~$20?

too big. Honestly the car chemistry ones will probably work fine. May work even better if I pack some of the peripheral chambers with steel wool.

classicauto

06-02-2009, 10:06 AM

Yes, the car chemistry deal is exactly what I mean by butt plug :)

You can make your own though, and size your outlet to suit your needs. Some are only the size of a quarter.......

WE3RX7

06-02-2009, 02:34 PM

I think the exhaust question is pretty well answered...

On the EMS though, I plan to use an E11 for now. I used to be a microtech junkie when they first came out, but they had all kinds of issues with the ignition drivers failing, etc and that drove me away. I've heard they've fixed it on the newer models - but I'm going with Haltech as its been used by a few friends of mine (even earlier e6k versions) with good luck and no troubles to speak of.

I want the E11v2 few a few reasons, one being the harness and the fact that it has the additional drivers I wanted, has tons of support and R&D, I like the software, and it too works with the dash display (although I think they have their own brand now too).

NOTHING agains the Motec, and I havent completely ruled it out. My issue is that I do most of my own tuning and have never played with the motec. I feel more comfortable around the haltech. Unless there are some good local rotary guys using Motec that want to sweat it out with me during my learning curve - I'll probably end up w/ Haltech.

Next time we run into each other, you'll have to show me around the Motec system some more...

Vex, if you go Motec, I'd like to be around during the install some and some tuning as well. You can be my guinea pig...

FC3S Murray

06-02-2009, 04:00 PM

I love my Power FC but then again any plug in play with the factory harness for the FC3S is a joy.

TitaniumTT

06-02-2009, 11:46 PM

too big. Honestly the car chemistry ones will probably work fine. May work even better if I pack some of the peripheral chambers with steel wool.

Out of my league at this point. I don't have a fucking clue what you're talking about.

Do you guys remember Dave Segalla? GuitarJunkie. He had this enginuous idea. He used the wastegate actuator off a set of RE twins, built a few brackets, did a few pretty trick things, and plumbed the wastegate actuator with the MAP. So whenever he went over 7.5psi, the actuator would push the little butt-plug out of the exhaust and boom, no more butt plug, ease off the gas, butt-plug. I thought it was pretty awesome.

I think the exhaust question is pretty well answered...

On the EMS though, I plan to use an E11 for now. I used to be a microtech junkie when they first came out, but they had all kinds of issues with the ignition drivers failing, etc and that drove me away. I've heard they've fixed it on the newer models - but I'm going with Haltech as its been used by a few friends of mine (even earlier e6k versions) with good luck and no troubles to speak of.

I want the E11v2 few a few reasons, one being the harness and the fact that it has the additional drivers I wanted, has tons of support and R&D, I like the software, and it too works with the dash display (although I think they have their own brand now too).

NOTHING agains the Motec, and I havent completely ruled it out. My issue is that I do most of my own tuning and have never played with the motec. I feel more comfortable around the haltech. Unless there are some good local rotary guys using Motec that want to sweat it out with me during my learning curve - I'll probably end up w/ Haltech.

Next time we run into each other, you'll have to show me around the Motec system some more...

Vex, if you go Motec, I'd like to be around during the install some and some tuning as well. You can be my guinea pig...

The E11's don't seem to have the rotary blowing ignition problems that the others do. It could very well be the harness though. No one can say with any certainty and I'm not going to speculate. All I will say is no-one, to my knowledge, has ever had a Motec fire @ 50* BTDC for an unexplained reason.

Tuning with the Motec is a breeze. The I2 software is amazing (the data-analysis) and everything has become pretty intuitive. I never really played with the software from the E11, but the E6 stuff was kind of a joke compared the the V3 software. I never had the pleasure of using the Motec V2 stuff but the V3 is pretty powerful. It's a free download from their website as is the I2 stuff. If you want to DL the software, I'll send you my Map and a few datalogs if you want to play around a little bit. It's really amazing stuff. Dave @ KDR's first time tuning on the V3 stuff was my car. It was seemless. He loved it.

vex

06-08-2009, 01:59 PM

The Haltech Plat 2000 is looking quite nice... Hmmm...

vex

06-16-2009, 05:12 PM

Just when I thought I'd have time to breath and take a break from the project... My temporary radiator mount crapped out on me. (I was only planning on it holding out for the summer but it didn't even last through that)

So as it stands i'm going to need to Re-Do my radiator mounts--and I have something that even Brian will take his hat off and like. Maybe even furiously hump it... but we'll see (I noticed a very cheap TIG available through summit... I may have to drop some change on that in the not too distant future). Also today while watching the manifold construction of all the valves for a rocket we're going to be testing at work soon and will be implementing that idea soon. Maybe even the same time as the Radiator mounts. It will be different and quite nice.

I'm also planning on doing a stand alone as the RTek can not be used in my vehicle and depending on how the money issue plays out that might be done this winter if not sooner.

Looks like my project is never done.

vex

07-23-2009, 03:18 PM

So WE3RX7 Was able to shadow me this morning while I got on the boost a little bit. He's informed me that I have blow by. Not dramatically, but enough to require my attention sooner rather than later. As such I've started sourcing out electric scavange pumps. I've narrowed it down to two I like--from the same company no less--but just need a little help in directing my efforts with one or the other.

http://www.turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Exa-Pump/Exa-Pump.html

Or the

http://www.turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Base-Model_Pump/Base-Model_Pump.html

Honestly I'm leaning towards teh base bodel pump because I don't see a need to spend an additional $130. I can even get the 3/8NPT fittings to be either hardlined, ss, AN, or whatever I want. I'm thinking I might just do it this way and avoid any huge problems with the oil system anymore.

This is all on top of fixing my front end and redoing the radiator mounting. Not to mention tighten up the rear end and possibly rebuild both the transmission, and diff (i'm thinking aftermarket internals or T2 internals if possible).

WE3RX7

07-23-2009, 03:48 PM

So this will mean you will need to add additional oil lines essentially and reuse your existing oil return location in the rear of the pan?

I was thinking if you're going this route you'd want to plug the hole in the rear of the pan and make a new one towards the front, closer to the front cover or even in the front cover if you need to... its just the rear of the pan doesn't drain well for a turbo app and pump/no pump the location of the return is still the issue...

I apologize if this is your plan already, maybe i missed that part, lol...

WE3RX7

07-23-2009, 03:49 PM

Oh and your car must be louder than i thought inside, lol.. yesterday I rode behind you for a good 3-4 miles before you noticed the horn and even then I was next to you at the light :)

The jeep is easy to miss though, blends in :)

vex

07-24-2009, 12:43 AM

Haha, I actually saw you out the corner of my eye, but I didn't want to look like the crazy person wiggin' out in traffic. I thought I heard a horn, but didn't think it was directed at me--so I ignored it.

My car isn't that loud. It becomes painfully apparent when I can hear other cars road noise, squeaky belts, and other things over my radio. It's also quieter than many others exhaust that I can hear over mine when they're in the opposite side of 29.

As for my plan: I'm thinking of keeping access to the rear and doing a hard line to the pump, and a hard line to the same return point on the pan. It's just easier rather than drilling/tapping/welding a new piece on to the front cover. The oil pan's already tapped and welded up. This will also give me the chance of fixing all the little things while i'm there, as well as give me a chance to change my oil. I'm tired of the 10-w30. I need to go back to the 20-w50.

Tomorrow should be an interesting day. I have to accomplish a few things in regards to the car. should be fun.