1982 GS! - Its Getting Close!!!

[Whizbang]

Here is the epic tale of my build thread for a 1982 GS i picked up locally.

For starters, the car is clean. Almost too clean in some ways and i love the earlier interiors.

Here is how i got the car:

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Almost immediately, i pulled the differential assembly out of the car. Its amazing how light it is in comparison to the GSL-SE rear end. I'd say at least a 100lb difference.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSCF0036.jpg

Next i pulled the motor out. The engine is a good 12a engine, i just want to go over EVERYTHING i can. Plus removing the rust proofing gunk is easier this way. My fiancee, Amy, cleaned the engine bay for me. Carb cleaner and

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[Whizbang]

with the motor pulled i started to degrease and scrub it clean. Once that fiasco was done, i pained the irons with ceramic spray paint for some visual appeal.

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I also swapped out the GSL-SE front struts i had. Already have Eibach springs and some Adjust. illumnias.

I also am using a stock replacement clutch and pressure plate. The 1982 has the "light weight" flywheel, so the pressure plate is different than other years. Napa "zoom (valeo)" clutch only set me back about 130 dollars and came with the everything, including the alignment tool and throwout bearing and grease.

For the intake manifold, i splurged and got the Atkins rotary side draft manifold. Its a nice piece, but the ports need some reworking.

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I also purchased a nice set of Suspension Techniques sway bars from Summit Racing. Its nice having them only about 20 minutes away. Installation for the front one sucks, to be plain. The rear is too bad. Just keep your hardware from the originals.

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Once that was installed i settled the engine and transmission back into the car.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC01887.jpg

[PercentSevenC]

Wow, the engine bay cleaned up really well. And I agree with you, the S2 interiors rule.

[Eatmyclutch]

Looking good.

[85rx-7gsl-se]

Nice ride and great work, but i have to disagree with u and %, S3 interiors is where its at :D

[Whizbang]

so i hit a wall. Appearently, a 44 IDF and a 45 DCOE DO NOT have the small flange pattern....

I am modifing a carb to act just as an EFI throttle body as opposed to buying a higher dollar unit. Or at least that WAS the plan until i got the 44 IDF and it sure as hell doesn't mate to the Atkins manifold i have....

[13bpower]

I like the way it came out keep up the good work

[Whizbang]

Progress has been made. Car is rolling around. Still need some things though. Have to do the fuel lines, fuel pump, needs rear dampers, and to finish the ignition setup (MSD boxes), install the MS unit i finished soldering and some other items. But generally speaking, i am on the home stretch.


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[Whizbang]

Also you can note in the picture that i am using an FC aluminum pump housing with a FB aluminum pump. Everything works out fine less the alternator mounting point. As you can see, air pump brackets and little grinding and solve this.

[Rogue_Wulff]

It is certainly colorful under the rear, with the orange trailing arms & watts link, and the bright green ST swaybar. I dunno what inspired ST to switch to that color on their springs and sways.....

[Whizbang]

they actually gave me an insert page talking about the color choice.

[Whizbang]

more progess.

The car now has some brake lines. Russell SS ones from Summit. The header is on, as is a tweaked Nikki Carb. Carter fuel pump is all connected up. All the electrical is connected and ready to go.

Now for the bad: I need a new driver's front caliper, pending on if i can removed the old bleeder in the one on there now. (its been snapped off). Also i am leaking coolant from the intake manifold. SOOO i need to address this as well. Going to have to take the manifold back off and put freeze plugs in place of the o ring crap.

[Rogue_Wulff]

I have a set of those Russell stainless lines ready to go on my car. Only item that is somewhat disappointing with them, they only included 3 sealing washers, and they're aluminum. Oh well, copper gaskets aren't that pricey, I just wish Russell had included them. I'll prolly pick up another set for the other car. Summit has a good price, and it's a 5 line set.
I also use the freeze plugs in my car. Only real issue I have encountered is the carb will sometimes ice up when the temp is below 40F. Once the engine has warmed up, the problem goes away. I don't drive the car much during the winter, so it's not a big issue.
Front calipers aren't too pricey, so it may be a good idea to replace both, if you cannot repair the broke bleeder. I have had limited success with drilling out broken bleeders. Sometimes it works, other times not so well.

[Whizbang]

im hoping i can just get another caliper new and call it a day since i am fresh out of good front calipers. and i have a 1400 mile drive to make october 1st..and there is a good chance its in this car...

as for the freeze plugs...i really dont get WHY its leaking. I used two new orings. What i think may have happened is that the orings i got were from napa in the generatic o ring box they have. Im thinking since they weren't a "perfect" fit, they may have pinched.

Either way, im tempted to just freeze plug the holes and be done with it.

[Rogue_Wulff]

I veiw the orings as a poor design, and always advise the use of freeze plugs when installing an aftermarket intake that doesn't have the water passages. Just an added security item, in my mind.
I know why Mazda used the water passages in the intake, but it could have been designed a little better. Those orings tend to leak far too often.
The reasoning behind the heated intake is not only to help prevent carb icing in colder climates, but the warmer air/fuel mixture is supposed to give a more complete burn. Great for reducing emmissions, but not so great for maximizing the power.

[Whizbang]

so one step back it seems. I dont think the intake manifold is sitting flush. Two different manifolds have done this...I think i need to just remove the two locators studs as they must be tweaked slightly to not allow the manifold to sit flush.

damn it

Then the thermostat housing bolt broke off TIGHTENING it back in.

damn it x2

[Whizbang]

I now have a Holley FPR, so depending on well some things go tonight i could attempt to start it!

[Whizbang]

Okay so here is the current state of the car:

1. exhaust wise, the car is 95% done. I just need to weld up a section to connect the header to the muffler.

2. The intake manifold SHOULD finally be good to go. I am currently using a tweaked nikki setup but ran into some coolant leak issues. I think that it was the locating studs giving me crap. I removed them and now it seems to sit flush(er) than before. Plus i freeze plugged the coolant passages and Right Stuff'ed them accordingly.

3. Wiring should basically all be done less one or two ground connections and the "+" to the starter. Only a couple minutes worth of work.

D. The water pump housing has also decided to leak between the housing and the engine. Going to go back to the proper 12a housing which will allow me to have a proper alt. tensioner as well. Should be getting on from Pete tonight.

5. The fuel system is also 90% done. I just need some fittings to plumb the Holley FPR.

[Rogue_Wulff]

I will be happy to see this car get back on the road. You have invested quite a bit of work into it.

[Whizbang]

i cant wait to get it driving to justify spending MORE money on it!

[Rogue_Wulff]

i cant wait to get it driving to justify spending MORE money on it!

Isn't it odd how that works? :driving:

[Whizbang]

at least i can have enjoyment then though. As will RE Speed and a few other mfgrs. once they have my dollars....

[Rogue_Wulff]

I know that feeling. ReSpeed has lots of stuff I'd like to have, for both my GS(L) and my SE. I have plenty of stuff to install on the SE already, but it's sitting on stock suspension...

[Whizbang]

i got lucky and the parts car GSLSE i had happened to have the adj. illum. struts and the eibachs.

[Whizbang]

UPDATED PICTURES!!!!!!!!


OKay so last night was productive to say the least AND i still had time to go cruisn' with some local folks.

The water pump problem has been addressed. Went back to an FB housing. The belt is on, alt is set etc. No clutch fan since i have one belt. So i am going to commender a e-fan on a junk yard visit.

The batt. cables are all hooked up. Used an old FC brake line for the clutch cable. Bleed that.

Only problems are once i got the batt. installed and went to crank it, the start just clicks alot and doesn't do anything. I think i saved the bad starter i did on my friends Rx7 and for some stupid reason, it ended up in my car....

So this weekend i am going to plumb the FPR, deal with the starter, maybe finish the exhaust. And hope to see it start!!



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[Whizbang]

alright, so i got the pressure reg. installed. But the batt. i have is 100 percent dead. I am going to start charging it and poke around with the seats needing mounted.

Ill get pictures later.

[TheDriver216]

I meant to ask you when i was up at the shop... what rims are those and what size tires?... they are pretty beefy.

[Whizbang]

14" Datsun 280Z(x)? decently common. I have a 205/60 tire on them.

[Whizbang]

So the FPR is installed, but the one fitting is still leaking, so i need to go tighten that. Once that is done, i declare the fuel system done.

Also the driver's side Isuzu seat is install and seems pretty nice. Adj. in many ways, the best being the torso bolsters. Just have to finish tinkering with the pass. side setup. I got lucky with the driver's side, the isuzu rails didnt take much to make work. The Passenger side is using the FB rails.

I still need to do something about the batt. i need a new one anyway since i cant find one that is a "known working" battery to check to make sure the start is good, since i can't get it to crank over. Just clicks alot.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/P1010135.jpg
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[djmtsu]

I hope you were not driving it with NO FAN!!!!!!

[Whizbang]

hah, car doesnt even run yet. Although you CAN run it without a fan as long as your moving.

I am getting an electric fan sometime this week anyway, not too big a concern.

I also could not get that one fitting to stop leaking. Looks like the threads on it werent sealing even with teflon tape. So ill get another one and try again. If they still give me beef, JB weld thread sealaent it is.


ALSO i just got two miata OEM batteries from a friend. Hopefully, one of them should be a good batt and let me figure out this start issue. Either way i want to get good high CCA battery.

[Whizbang]

Fuel leak problem has been solved!

But i am still having issues with the starter. After talking around, i think the brushes are stuck... so i am going to rummage through my boxes of spare parts to see if i kept any starters.

Also, the first of my "cool items" has been ordered and will solve my issues with the front brakes permanent like. Bought the RE Speed Front Brake Kit and seeing i already have some 5 lug stuff laying around and numerous calipers, i can pretty much get the thing operational from that alone.

I am planning on then running vert wheels (since i need a 15" wheel). Once the budget allows, ill be doing the kit for the rear as well.

Eventually when i get some dollars ill buy a wider proper set of wheels.

[Whizbang]

To Do List (This is more for my own use since i loss crap like this)


PHASE 1 - Getting the car running!
A. Fix coolant leak issues (have to verify with the engine running)
B. Finish exhaust
C. Install RE Speed Kit for front brakes.
D. Need lug nuts for vert wheels
E. Install shocks in rear once second shock (finally) arrives.
F. Tighten all suspension bolts in rear.
G. Need new batt. Temp. use of old miata may work pending start issue.
H. Fix start "not cranking" issue.
I. Add ground cabling here and there.
J. Install pass. side Isuzu seat.
K. acquire and install E-Fan.



PHASE 2 - 12a Fuel Injection Conversion
A. Acquire throttle body assembly (Tmw vs. Fuji)
B. Finish mega squirt and harness.
C. install intake manifold and throttle body.
D. Need two fuel injectors (550 vs 680)
E. Acquire and install fuel pump.
F. Install fuel pressure regulator
G. Run fun feed and return lines.
H. Tune!



PHASE 3 - More Power! 13B 4-Port N/A
A. acquire s5 rotor 9.7:1 rotors
B. acquire rx8 e-shaft
C. acquire automatic rear counterweight
D. have rotating assembly balanced
E. Port 12a irons
F. Cooling mod GSLSE housings / 12a irons
G. Acquire apex seals of choice (low wear?)
H. Need four fuel injectors (about 460?)
I. Assemble engine. (skipping details for now)
J. Acquire 13b manifold
K. Retune with mega squirt.



Other stuff:

Aeroworks Rear Spoiler (fiberglass) $175 www.shop.retro-spec.net
240z Fender Flares $218 www.thezstore.net

[Whizbang]

still waiting around for stuff like the starter and the brake kit, so in the meantime, i put the shiny thing on.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/P1010140.jpg

[whitey85mtu]

I hope you were not driving it with NO FAN!!!!!!

I run without my fan alot of the time. It all depends on how hot it is outside when I'm driving. The only time that I make sure that my e-fan is running is when I leave and it's "rush hour" here. Even then, I spend less than 5 minutes sitting in traffic downtown, then it's off to the nice roads outside of town :).

Project looks good, wish I had the time/money/space to do a project like that. Let us know how the Isuzu seats feel while driving.

[Whizbang]

from just a sitting standpoint (and from driving the isuzu they came in) they are very nice, especially compared to the stock seats.

the have adj. lumbar support, adj, side bolsters, the seats can tilt, etc. Plus the headrest is actually about where the back of my head is. Im 6'1". That never happens in an FB.

I would also bet i could wear a helmet without rubbing the ceiling.

[Max777]

Wow, kinda like what I'm doing to my FC, except for I had to get another engine, I have rust holes in my floor, and I had to repaint my engine bay due to a leaking brake master....

I got an FC Turbo 4 pot caliper for $66 rebuilt from car quest, so I cant imagine that an FB caliper would be that much more expensive...

[Whizbang]

the calipers are not expensive. The rotors are since they a integral with the bearings. A cheap GSLSE rotor at MY cost is about 50-60 dollars, per rotor.

[Whizbang]

items in red are completed!

PHASE 1 - Getting the car running!
A. Fix coolant leak issues (have to verify with the engine running)
B. Finish exhaust
C. Install RE Speed Kit for front brakes.
D. Need lug nuts for vert wheels
E. Install shocks in rear once second shock (finally) arrives.
F. Tighten all suspension bolts in rear.
G. Need new batt. Temp. use of old miata may work pending start issue.
H. Fix start "not cranking" issue.
I. Add ground cabling here and there.
J. Install pass. side Isuzu seat.
K. acquire and install E-Fan.

now i would have the exhaust finished too, but something became misaligned, so i need to redo it...


i am also concerned about the possibility that the manifold is STILL leaking coolant.

There is also a 4.78 equipped 3rd member in the car. I want to see what the open diff is like for one, and for two, i want to rebuild the limited slip unit i have. No sense doing it twice.

[Whizbang]

well the car kinda starts off start fluid, but discovered that the carb is not getting fuel. Check the line up to the FPR and it barely is getting flow. The pump is running, but either it cant flow any longer or there is a blockage. Ill have to look into it more...

But the seats are done! The car cranks and i heard it fire up. So its getting closer to running. But my time is also running out til i move....hopefully i can heard it run before i have to park it.

Some current engine bay pictures:

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[rotorhead87]

That is amazing work. The amount of elbow grease you and your fiancee put into that FB is great. It's nice to see that there are still people out there willing to take the time to clean up their cars. Good job, keep up the awesome job!

[Whizbang]

well since a buyer backed out on this car, i am stuck trying to ship it out to me.

so i get to spend about 1200 doing that...woo

[Whizbang]

well i sold it and now its back into my hands.

[Whizbang]

just got these so i can continue with the project. I am going to be installing the RE Speed "Big Brake" kit here soon. The caliper on passenger side is un-bleedable since the bleeder is broken off and rusted to hell and back. So might as well just do the upgrade now and solve the "no brakes" issue. But that means i need a 15" or larger 5x114.3 wheel. Not sure yet if the stock rx7 wheels will work but there are doubts. So i found something that will work at least for now. They are 16x8.5 Primes, with a 3.5" backspacing. It will clear. Will stick out a mile, but will clear. Like i said, temporary. Or if i find two more, i might do some serious flares....

Also, might be looking for two more of these if anyone sees any.



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[Fidelity101]

wood shift knob FTW, I got one that matches my momo wood steering wheel.

[Whizbang]

well i guess the vert getting hit is a blessing in disguise.

We got a check from the insurance company which will help get some bills covered til i leave in April and we are trying to obtain another Rx7 for me to drive in the meantime.

BUT since we are parting the vert out now, i have everything i need to get my 1982 running. Going to use the S4 13b engine and the stock systems to get it to operate. Put the 12a trans behind it and call it a day. Already have the SE pan in route.

[Max777]

sweet! You consider using a megasquirt to simplify the FC engine install?

I am thinking also that while weak, maybe the 13B N/A transmission is stonger than the GS transmission?

[Whizbang]

eh they are probably about the same. They are pretty much the same Type M transmission. 12a is a bit shorter ratio and also physically shorter. I could do the tail shaft swap but there is no need to for now.

I have a MS unit but for cost reasons, im going with the stock stuff for now. Then once i get my MS up and running ill convert.

[Fidelity101]

eh they are probably about the same. They are pretty much the same Type M transmission. 12a is a bit shorter ratio and also physically shorter. I could do the tail shaft swap but there is no need to for now.

I have a MS unit but for cost reasons, im going with the stock stuff for now. Then once i get my MS up and running ill convert.

I did the swapping the tail shaft and spedo worm gear but it was the 13b 1st gen trans. I recommend it, my car isn't fast but I just need it to get up to speed so it helps, I also wish I had a 4.30 instead of a 4.10 but it would make 1st gear even more useless.

[Whizbang]

i have 4.78s soo yea

[Whizbang]

bought some items! feels like christmas. Pics once they come in

[Whizbang]

There is one thing im stuck on currently, the header.

I might have to buy new since i have found nothing good locally used. In that case, there are several options depending on what i want to spend.

1. Racing Beat Streetable header - $258
**curious what the difference between the 4 port and 6 port version is....**
2. Racing Beat Road Race header - $240
3. AWR "tuned" stainless header - $550

[Tranquil]

Well about that header, I just sent you a reply to your PM on OHR.

[Whizbang]

Some of the parts pile forming including the RE Speed brake it, a Summit CDI box, three summit coils, Summit EFI external pump pump, an Aeromotive 13109 FPR that has been on more of my cars than i care to recall and a Excedy OEM replacement clutch for the 13B NA that i have had around for almost a year now.

I also acquired a set of vert wheels, currently with the centers painted black. Hoping to strip that and repaint the OEM silver color.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03662.jpg
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while we made a side trip to grab two LS mesh wheels for Amy's civic, we came a crossed Sparta.


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[Whizbang]

atkins' side mount alternator kit came today!

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[Whizbang]

pineapple sleeves, oil injector plugs and the block off plate came in!

Now what im not sure about is if the block off plate will work, because im retarded and i got one for an 86-88 not thinking about the fact i have to use a 12a front cover.

[Whizbang]

Today i got a ton of things done!!!! Thats to Peejay for coming out and helping. Wouldn't have gotten 25% of what i got done with his help.

For starters, we got the front cover and oil pan on after spending some time scrapping away the world's hardest known substance, oil gasket. Right Stuff(tm) made up the new gasket and we carried on with the process of getting the engine ready. Also got the new Exedy clutch and PP on.

Next part that was a somewhat pain was bending the cross member in order to fit the 13B engine on the 12a subframe. While you could just spend the money on a pre made one, its really not worth it if you just have a vise, a tape measure and perhaps a pry bar. Essentially, you need to move the position of the slots about 20mm down to compensate for the increased size of the 13B. You will also have to cut a corner of the short side's ear for clearance reasons. Yes i do plan on cleaning the engine. My intake stuffs should be arriving soon. With a whole lot of luck the car may run by next weekend! Gotta love a time crunch.

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[Whizbang]

The next thing that was tackled was the 3rd member. I wanted to retain the LSD so we had to do some time with the rear end. i went to the junkyard a friend owns on Saturday (yesterday) and came across another Kia Sportage 4x4. So i came home with the 3rd member. This made today's mess a bit less of a hassle since Peejay had limited time on his hands. Having plenty more experience on setting up rear differentials that i, Pete swapped the differentials, while i documented the process for a write up ill be doing soon.

The biggest thing was trying to get the backlash set. The Mazda manual does not give useful insight on bearing preload. Pete reversed engineering their setup and determined the preload to be about 2-1/2 holes. He also recommended tightening up the backlash. The GSLSE rear end was around .007" while the Kia rear was .011". But from experience, a backlash of .004" was chosen. But synthetic lubricant is now a requirement. This should reduce the noise from the rear from chattering and also help keep it alive. After getting everything wrapped on this, i stuff on the shelf til i get the lift open so i can swap it out for the Open 4.78 3rd member currently in the car.

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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/kiagearlsd7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/kiagearlsd8.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/kiagearlsd9.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/kiagearLSD5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/kiagearLSD.jpg

[Whizbang]

Just when you thought that i had done enough today, i go and do something else. By 4:30 Pete had left so i decided to start the RE Speed Big Brake kit for the fronts. I started buy first getting all my FC parts together, and reading and re-reading the directions. Again, there will be another write up on this as well going into details. I did not have undersized spindles so no expensive Loktite was needed.

Everything well very well (nice having torches) until i tried to separate the rotors from the hubs on the FC 5 lug hubs. They just would not budge. Tried PB for a while, torches and plenty of hammering on and off the car. No go. Then the damn rotor completely broke off on the one side. :banghead: So i have to get the other set of hubs that a rotor-less tomorrow. Then i can finish putting the calipers on.

Then yet another issue developed. I had no wheels that fit that have tires on them. The vert wheels are off about an 1". No way no how were those going to fit. Not sure what size spacer would have been needed, but the tires on the rims were too large anyway. Since i could not keep the car in the bay for tomorrow, i had to improvise. Stole the spare out my friends convertible and had a DSM guy i know lend me his spare as well. So i now have two spare up front. This will have to stay this way til i figure something out.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/5lugFB2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/5lugFB3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/5lugFB4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/5lugFB5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/5lugFB.jpg

[Whizbang]

and of course, the rotor that made my night that much shittier.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/fmyl.jpg

[Whizbang]

Today was more of a lateral movement, but for sure worth mentioning.

I cleaned some of the engine up, removed the oil injectors and plugged them with the Pineapple Racing plugs i got. Then i decided to get the radiator in and removed the studs from the water pump. Little stuff sure. But needed.

Next came installing the Atkins side mount alternator kit. Was extremely easy to do. Very well designed. I am going to be running an S5 alternator with a double pulley. Still need to buy two belts though.

Next i want to tackle the brake project. I had my two good hubs obtained. So i was ready. So i thought. Hubs went on fine. Rotors the same. But when i tried to get the calipers on, it was a no go. No matter how i oriented the mounting plate, spacers, etc, the caliper always hit the rotor somewhere. No good. Lots of vulgar words. Im talking with Billy with RE Speed looking for a why. Im thinking the plates might be warped.

The picture below you can the mounting bracket. Turns out i had it backwards and need the other one i had on the other side to be proper. Else the top bolt wont clear the sturt. Still having the caliper hit though. You can see that in the last picture.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03732.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03731.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03726.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03724.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03722.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03723.jpg

[Whizbang]

in more good news, my individual throttle bodies, downdraft 13B 6PI manifold and megasquirt arrived today!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03735.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03736.jpg

[Whizbang]

well the brakes have finally been figured out. Brian (Driver216) came out (denote picture below) to lend a hand for a while. Took a lot of tinkering but ii got the caliper to clear the rotor. Then came the brake line issues. The calipers are forward of the spindle so the stock FC brake lines didnt just "work". I tried rebending the hardline piece but that proved futile. Ended up using the stainless FB ones i already had. Got everything bleed and holy crap, the pedal feel. The thing is gonna stop good.

Next i just wanted to see what the Primes looked like. Well they for sure clear, but once i get tires on them i am going to HAVE to run fender flares.

Since the intake manifold, throttle bodies etc came in i wanted to get the mounted up. But the intake manifold need some work. Had to port match the hell out of the primary runners. They were way off. Then drilled and tapped for the brake booster vacuum nipple. From here assembly the intake and throttle bodies was pretty straight forward. I believe it uses Bosch injectors, so i am going to have to obtain a set. I also need to figure out how i am going to run the TPS.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03740.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03742.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03743.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03744.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03745.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03746.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03747.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03748.jpg

[Whizbang]

went to the junkyard yesterday and snagged a FC spare and an FB tailight for 5 dollars. I had one aluminum fC spare and one DSM spare on the car before i got the calipers on. Well now the DSM spare hits the caliper so i could move the car around when i got done last time. Second FC spare will be fixing that issue. And the tail light is to replace the ones the previous owner painted. Still need another passenger side one.

[Whizbang]

Got the 4.78 LSD 3rd member installed tonight with Mobil 1 synthetic due to the tightened backlashing. Also dropped the tank and may have figure out the issue with the low fuel output it had previously and got the tank back up. Removed all the old fuel lines. Removed the A/C and heater core. Going to start the wiring process tomorrow.

[Whizbang]

Tonight was pretty productive as well. I elected to remove the HVAC out of the car. Which was easily up until the heater core. That thing is a pain. This allow for a ton of space under the dash. I then assembled the Aux port sleeves with the Pineapple racing inserts.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03758.jpg

The owner of the Marathon i have been doing this work at has some nifty tools, so just to see how the sleeve lined up inside i used this cool video camera with an LED on the end of it thing. I was surprised by how much the casting of the iron when passed the opening of the sleeve.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03759.jpg

Next i mounted the CDI box on the back side of the glove box. There is plenty of room under there now for wiring and to give the box some air flow. Plus there is no chance of rain getting to it. Im trying to keep the engine bay clean. I also mounted the Megasquirt in place of the little pocket under the radio. Going to be running all the wires out of the one of the former heater core holes in the firewall.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03757.jpg

Next up, i finally wanted to install the leading coils somewhere. Figured out that the side of the radiator would be the best place to do so. The things are pretty big so there were not too many options that looked good. Ended up making a bracket. Pictures will explain the rest.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03755.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03760.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03761.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC03762.jpg

[Max777]

Are those ITB's from Nopis10? I never actually saw them in person back when he had them, so it's nice to finally see what they look like!

[Whizbang]

got them off of someone on Rx7club. Not sure if it could be him on there though. SidewaysGTU or something like that.

[Whizbang]

Just for giggles, here is a running list of expenses thus far.

Chassis
1982 Rx7 (first buy): -$600
1982 Rx7 (sold for CO move): +$1100
1982 Rx7 (bought back again): -$550

Chassis Cost Total: $50

Driveline
13B 6PI engine: No Cost (Vert got totaled)
Exedy OEM replacement clutch: No cost (had on hand for long time)
Stainless braided clutch line: No cost (from vert)

Total Driveline Cost: $0

Electrical / Ignition
Summit CDI Box: -$120
(3) Summit Coils: -$150
Megasquirt: -$150
S5 alt w/ double pulley: -$50
Atkins Side Mount Alt. Kit: -$95
Haltech TPS: $50

Electrical / Ignition Total: $565

Intake
EFI Hardware ITBs and 13B 6PI manifold: -$600
Pineapple Racing Aux Port Sleeves: -$50

Total Intake System Cost: $650

Wheels / Tires
(2) 215/45 R16 and (2) 224/45 R16 Ventus RS-2 $450

Fuel System
Summit EFI Fuel Injection Pump: -$80
Aeromotive 13109 FPR: No cost (old on hand part)
Atkins EFI / EGR Block off: $50

Total Fuel System Cost: $80

Suspension / Braking
RE Speed Big Brake Front Kit: -$200
Russel Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit: -$90
GSL-SE Suspension and rear axle: No Cost (hand on hand for sometime)
Kia Sportage 4.78 3rd member: -$75
ST Sway bars (front and rear): -$300
Eibach Springs: No Cost (got on parts car)
Tokico Adjustable Front dampers: No Cost (Got on a parts car)
Rear dampers: -$80

Total Suspension Cost: $735

Then figure probably another $200 in misc. fluids, sealants and cleaners.

[Whizbang]

Got some things done tonight. Drago would have known this but he doesn't show up EVER B^Oh^o

Got the trailing coil bracket made, painted and mounted. Wired up the leading coils, signal from the CDI box to the coils and ran the wires from the fan to the under dash so i can add a switch in soon enough. Have the trailing spark plugs wires all sorted out and installed.

painted the top of the radiator shroud black to replace that nasty silver.

I also got the aeromotive FPR installed.

Also also managed to remove some more of that old crusty yellow rustproofing shit.


Forget the camera though....

[LegendaryRotary]

Looks good man.

[Whizbang]

on a parts ordering binge. Car should be done asap.

[Whizbang]

Wheels, tires, fender flares are ordered.

Haltech TPS is ordered

Atkins EFI/ EGR block off is ordered

Racing beat 3" universal presilenser and muffler are ordered.

Fuel system is sitting in my car and probably going in today.

[Whizbang]

The entire fuel system went in today less the injectors. (the ones shown were for fitting the lines). All the stainless braided was done with the help of Peejay. The stainless 3/8" underneath the car was finished albeit tons of profanity was used. Stuff is hard as hell to bend and even harder to cut. Actually ate up one of the pipe cutting tools.

Fuel pump and filter went on shortly after. Ill get underside pics at a later time.

Also acquired a nice Sparco seat to replace the Isuzu seats (which now live in Driver's car).

Behold the power of a much nicer camera!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/13BITB1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/13BITB3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/13BITB4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/inside.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/newseat.jpg

[Whizbang]

sparco seat mounting stuffs, injectors and some other stuff ordered.

[Whizbang]

Got a lot accomplished today and yesterday. Saturday i drilled the manifold for the vacuum references and the GM IAT. Also started some of the wiring needs.

Today was very worthwhile. Finished a ton of wiring for the gauges, the megasquirt, engine bay related, switches, etc. Also install the injectors, the Atkins EFI EGR block off kit, the RB header i picked up. Etc. Most of the wiring harness has been sorted. Only a little bit more to go.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/4_5_09ITB1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/4_5_09ITB3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/4_5_09ITB5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/tach1.jpg

[Whizbang]

Classicdatsun.com fender flares and racing beat muffler and pre silencer came!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/flares.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/mufflers.jpg

[Whizbang]

Well i got a fair amount done. Wheels and tires are now on the car. Battery is installed, the Sparco seat is completely installed. Fuel pressure gauge (mechanical) is almost done. Need a 90 degree 1/8 NPT. Im hoping to charge the fuel system tomorrow for the first time for leaking. Then also get some more wiring done. If i can i want to start the "starting" process Saturday.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/4_9_09CSWFB2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/4_9_09CSWFB3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/4_9_09CSWFB.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC00957.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC00959.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/FuelPressExt.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/seatmounted.jpg

[SouthSideSlider]

very nice cant wait to see thouse 240ZG flares on it

[Whizbang]

Finished running the battery cables, fuel pump wiring, and some other odds and ends that needed dealt with. Going to prime the fuel system for the first time tomorrow.

[-xlr8planet-]

looks great!

[Whizbang]

Well the car is on the edge of starting. BUTTTTT the fuel pump is sucking air. I thought i had fixed the issue with the gas tank. Now im not sure what route to take since im short on money (else i would say hell with it and run a fuel cell) and sort on time (i leave for Air Force basic in 12 days).

poop

[Whizbang]

USB to serial adapter has arrived so i can finally flash the MS unit. Sadly, my battery for my laptop is kaput, so the laptop isnt exactly mobile. Ill probably obtain something from ZGN while im at Tech School to cure this issue. But for now, i just want it to run a bit.

Tomorrow im going to solve the fueling issue. If all goes well, the car should start. Maybe.

[Whizbang]

so where to begin.

First, many thanks to Rymon and Pete on the megasquirt. Wouldn't have been able to do it without pestering them.

As for the progress. Well it starts and holds an idle more or less. First start was open header. (dang) Started up very easily though. Still wants to stall on occasion but i have had no chance to tune anything as of yet. I reflashed the MS2 to use the MS2 extra firmware. Which has some pretty good controls.

Also had to replace the alternator. The S5 i had gotten wasn't charging. Took it to autozone, tested bad. Had a spare s4 one laying around so i adapted that. Issues resolved.

With the day coming to a close, i decided to tackle the final big step. The exhaust. A friend of mine lent a huge hand and didnt the welding since i haven't for almost a year now and we didn't have time for me to get back into it. Generally went well. Used the Racing Beat 3" universal muffler and pre silencer. Still need to decided on a tip for the muffler.

As far as media with the car running, well tomorrow or the next day i will have a video of it running any maybe even driving. we shall see. There are plenty of issues i need to address including the fact i *can't* get the car in reverse. The clutch also engages pretty low.

[Whizbang]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC01184.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC01187.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC01188.jpg
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC01190.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC01191.jpg
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC01206.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC01220.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/CSP%20FB/DSC01221.jpg

[need RX7]

Nice :icon_tup: . Can't wait to see a vid of it running, I bet it sounds beastly.

[Whizbang]

the sound of the intake is actually VERY loud. I can hear it over the exhaust with the hood closed.

[Max777]

are you going to run the muffler with no tip?

[Whizbang]

trying to decide on what i want to have off of it still.

[Whizbang]

video of the first start and drive. Needs more tuning, very lean..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5h52Q6icqGo

[PercentSevenC]

Sounds very nice. I know what you mean about the intake. Adrian's 48 IDA is almost louder than his (very loud) exhaust. What's the overall sound level like on yours? Tolerable?

[Whizbang]

i found it tolerable. The people who rent the apt above the marathon don't (they live above a service station for christ sakes!!!).

Having some issues i am having a hard time addressing so i have not done more than stumble the car around.

[Whizbang]

well i am having some issues with the megasquirt that i am trying to resolve. Most important of which is the fact that once the 02 sensor starts functioning, it will go inactive and stick at 12.10 afr. While at the same time the Manifold Air Temp will go from reading normal to telling me its seeing 15F. Something is askew

That and the tuning is still way off with the accel enrichment and the VE

[Whizbang]

Probably wont be able to get the car up to shape before i leave monday. But i need to solve the issue with the 02 and the IAT and start getting the accel enrichment sorted out.

[Whizbang]

well the car is chilling at my Grandmothers til i get posted at my active duty station. It does start right up now though! I have video to prove this fact!

But still needs plenty of tuning.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5h52Q6icqGo

[Whizbang]

insignificant update:

Car now has plates! Historical to be specific.

[Whizbang]

So my wife has taken the initiative to get the rx7 functioning. Peejay came out and fix some problems that have been plaguing me. For starters the solved the mystery of the burning out taches which was a switched up wire i mislabeled. Two, the distributor has some loose internal wiring so he dealt with that. Immediately running better.

That said he has not had time to get the tuning and hopefully he will soon. BUT my wife has spent the last week power learning Megasquirt, rotaries and tuning as best as she can and is actually trying to road tune the car as we speak. Which is pretty much awesome.

Yes i have a lot of trust in my wife lol

[BigIslandSevens]

That is the definition of a keeper wife;) Kudos to you guys. should be nice to have it all worked out soon enough

[Whizbang]

even got pulled over for the first time, ha!

Reverse lights were wigging out its seemed. eh, something else to deal with.

but the car is running increasingly better. still breaking up a bit at high rpms though

[Whizbang]

so Pete worked miracles. But the idler arms is FUBAR to the point it warranted a video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phqeshQN0l0

[need RX7]

:rofl:

[Whizbang]

Soo word is in the car is running well enough that i know could stand a good wideband tune and actually see what power i can get out of it.

[Whizbang]

Car is running good!!!

even managed to get itself in and back out of the Cleveland impound lot....lol.

Im hoping to get some new media soon. The idler arm is getting replaced today and hopefully the fenders will be rolled soon. Other than that its ready to enjoy and refine. Im sure the next step is some wideband tuning.

[TitaniumTT]

I always loved the stance and the FI setup on this car. Glad to see she's cooperating a little now. Beautiful ride :icon_tup:

[Whizbang]

thank you, sir

[Whizbang]

Idler fiasco has been resolved!!!

Just need to roll the fenders (temp fix til i get the fender flares put on). Probably could stand an alignment....

[Whizbang]

Got the video up of its first legitamite drive. Still could stand quite a bit of tuning buts its a nice start. Lots of work to do still. Probably going to step the exhaust down from 3" to 2.5" for better clearance when i lower it a bit. Still need to finish the fender flares too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDUVjjoRZTQ

[Whizbang]

bought one of those netbook things so i can be able to do all of my tuning. the old laptop was no longer portable thanks to a cook battery, among other things. Plus i like the small size of this lap top. Already got the MS software downloaded. Hoping to figure out how to work the datalogging software.

Additionally, i have some plans once the car is out in Idaho with me. For starters the fender flares are getting done because the tires like to contact the wheels. Once that is completed i can go further with the suspension and remake the exhaust to a 2.5" instead of the 3" it has currently

Engine wise, the alternator is going back to its oem location. The side mount thing just isnt working out since i cant use the dual belts. May also start the process of running the CAS so i have ignition control. Since the alt movement may require some re-routing of wiring, ill probably run the CAS wires will im doing it.

[NoDOHC]

So you are home for a little while?

If you have a wideband on the car, peak power should be easy 13.0:1 - 13.4:1 AFR and 30-38 BTDC ignition (depending on CR). It would be awesome if you could find a dyno and get some power numbers.

[Whizbang]

i still have to get a wideband so it can be tuned properly as well (yet another thing to buy). Currently its being worked of a regular single wire o2.

i really do think having the ignition control would go a long way since i really have none at the moment. Would surely help the idle and get rid of any remaining breakup the car likes to have.

[Whizbang]

and in other news ill be needing a replacement clutch sooner than i thought. Wife reported it slipping mid jackassery. Was just an oem-ish replacement from exedy so im not surprised it didnt take well to what they were trying to do. Kinda salty they did becuase i dont want to have to do replacing shit i just got but since the transmission needs replaced anyway (bad reverse) might as well do it all in one sitting.

probably just get what i wanted to get in the first place. Get myself an aftermarket flywheel and a counterweight as well. What i have ALSO thought about doing was the T5 adapter stuff so i get a better gear ratio selection and a loose the weakness of the type M transmission.,

[Whizbang]

alright, here is the currently planning pending on the reply from Kennedy Engineering:


Use the Kennedy engineering T5 adapter kit. This will allow me to run the 74+ 6" long removable bell housings. ill have to verify if any of the later turbo transmissions bell housings will work or if i have to find myself an older rx4 bell housings or similar and rock a top mount starter.

This will couple a Borg Warner T5 which is common as dirt and allows me to find whatever gear ratios i want really.

Now for the engine end of things, a mazda flywheel and pressure plate are used but the clutch must be a ford spline. Now, what i am going to try and find is a vendor for the Guru flywheel that uses the 5.5" clutches. Would be an easy adaption since those clutchs can come in a ford spline. The only concern is the wear rate on them. otherwise, the OS Giken twin disk, flywheel setup can be found with the ford spline as well if i recall correctly ( 1/16" 10 spline).

but that should pretty much be a permanent solution and give me quite a bit of adjustably.

[NoDOHC]

You know, I had trouble with an OEMish (actually called a stage 2) F1 Racing clutch.

I am only making 200 Lb-Ft of torque (although with cold ignition coils, I think I make closer to 220 lb-ft) and it was rated to 230 lb-ft. I think that some of the clutches are just cheap or the manufacturers has poor quality control.

EDIT: I have a SPEC clutch (stage 3+) that I really like. I would recommend them highly.

[Whizbang]

i guess it means the engine is making SOME power at least. I tried to keep the overall diameter of the tire/wheel the same as a GSLSE. Its only slightly taller, like maybe 1/4" so i dont think its due to resistance. Probably as you said, low quality. Wasnt meant to take abuse.

but if i get this driveline setup how i want, ill really need to start building an engine deserving of such amenities.

[Whizbang]

i also think i have settled on the engine to get built.... enjoyment to come

[Silver86]

i really like your setup... similar to what i had in mind with my car.

[NoDOHC]

i also think i have settled on the engine to get built.... enjoyment to come


Do tell....

[Whizbang]

well for starters, i love my na engines. Not sure why. They wont usually be the fastest, but i still love em.

secondly, i have enough rotor housings that i can experiment with homemade peripheral ports. Im pretty sure i can use my itbs without issue. i will just size the ports accordingly (400cfm flow per port)

I helped Peejay with his PP before and i love em. So that is the route i want to go. Ill end up building a more better version of my PP for the rally build as well.

[Whizbang]

i really like your setup... similar to what i had in mind with my car.

thank you, sir! Should get better over the coming months as well.

[Whizbang]

i think i found my bell housing and my initial T5. The stock ford T5 gear ratios aren't the best but i am just going to using it "for now". I hope to figure out what can be done with the stock ratios (mixing and matching) or worse case, ill save and spring for a Richmond Gear Road Race 5speed in the gear ratios i want. I wouldnt have an overdrive (5th is 1.00) but that isnt that big a deal to me.

[BigIslandSevens]

Late model Rodeos(91-95ish) from Izuzu had a real close gear ratio from the get go. Also some early 90's late 80's camaros and firebirds were real close as well. I am thinking of this route as well. Since I have seen far to many FB trannies blow out on track.

[RotaryProphet]

So, you going to build her up while you're still in ohio? I'd love to see your motor get some tuning time on my dyno... particularly if you're rocking the Megasquirt.

[Whizbang]

im only gonna be in ohio for around a week before i have to move out to idaho so it doubt ill be able to.

[Whizbang]

Late model Rodeos(91-95ish) from Izuzu had a real close gear ratio from the get go. Also some early 90's late 80's camaros and firebirds were real close as well. I am thinking of this route as well. Since I have seen far to many FB trannies blow out on track.

i noticed this in a tag number breakdown for WC transmissions. This route is extremely tempting since there is usually less cost associated with isuzu transmissions.

BUT i found myself an Rx8 transmission on the cheap and this will be going into the car that this thread is the subject of. BUT i am going to still run a T-5 behind my rally project for a variety of reasons.

[Whizbang]

okay i have sourced the rx8 transmission and an s4 counterweight. Now i just need a flywheel and clutch setup, an rx8 starter and do something with the slave and i can get the thing installed. Ill figure out the driveshaft once its all done.

[Whizbang]

picked up a smaller steering wheel thingy since the factory one and my legs like to occupy the same space. Darn racing seat.

[TitaniumTT]

See if you can find a TII driveshaft on the cheap and mod the flange to fit the flange on the axle........ wait, do the FB's have a flange or the break-apartable-u-joints?

[Whizbang]

the earlier ones had rebuildable ujoints, the 81 up did not, but a driveshaft shop can cure that.

you think it would be the right length?

[Nismo]

All U-joints are replaceable, just a little more work.

Here is a place in Canada that sells them, and does the work, about $70/joint:

http://www.euro-drive.com/U-Joints.htm

[TitaniumTT]

the earlier ones had rebuildable ujoints, the 81 up did not, but a driveshaft shop can cure that.

you think it would be the right length?

Couldn't tell ya on the length but it's a good place to start. Easy enough to add or subtract length from a driveshaft. Important part is the splines/diameter

[Whizbang]

quite true. once the rx8 installation is complete, ill be looking to finally build a better engine. Will also be going with an FC front suspension i think. Will be able to use FC coilovers up front then, get a better steering selection, may run power steering, maybe, well see.

[Whizbang]

im excited because i think i finally found something i can really enjoy running this car in, the Idaho hillclimbs!! While im sure ill go plinking around autocrossing, hillclimbs are such more fun. higher speed. etc. Not sure if the current wheel and tire package will be of ANY use (yay for spending more money) but as long as i get to see what this can do, im cool with it.

plus its motiveation to get the next engine built.

[BigIslandSevens]

the earlier ones had rebuildable ujoints, the 81 up did not, but a driveshaft shop can cure that.

you think it would be the right length?

I rebuilt my 81 driveshaft with u-joints from Advance auto parts. 20 bucks total. Took 20 minutes to replace both u-joints. Manufacturers like to "say" they are not rebuildable so you buy another 400+ $ shaft. I have a GSL sgaft here that I am going to rebuild as a spare if your intrested in that one. It has replaceable clip style joints in it as well.


If the joints do not have clips holding them in( mine had them) then the caps are held in place internally with nylon that is injected into the caps at assembly. Heat up the caps until they melt the nylon out. Then proceed as normal. I have not met a driveshaft yet that I couldn't replace the u-joints on.

[TitaniumTT]

Nicely done. I'm going to have to remember that little heat trick. Do they have recesses for the clips after the nylon is removed?

Hows the rebuild on the tranny coming along? Did you crack the bitch open yet?

[Whizbang]

still trying to get myself to idaho to get it. I am having a serious shitfest on trying to get my move together.

[BigIslandSevens]

[QUOTE=TitaniumTT;103105]Nicely done. I'm going to have to remember that little heat trick. Do they have recesses for the clips after the nylon is removed?
QUOTE]


The nylon is the clip.Melt the nylon,= removing the clip.

[Whizbang]

thats a nice trick to remember

[prrxkid]

nice build,hard work pays off i see,hey how do u like the sperco,i am 6 foot tall and i could use alittle more room,also is that a direct fit bracket,thanks,enjoy.

[Whizbang]

nice build,hard work pays off i see,hey how do u like the sperco,i am 6 foot tall and i could use alittle more room,also is that a direct fit bracket,thanks,enjoy.


i certainly have more head room, probably the most you can get without cutting stuff. the mount was made poorly though, had to trim it to clear the transmission tunnel. I am 6' as well. ill have to see what the clearances are with a helmet though

["G"]

Nice work so far.

[Whizbang]

well the car is in idaho with me. I hope to get cracking on some things soon. Just got a lot going on currently.

[RX200013B]

welcome to idaho my new friend

is was nice to meet you at the meet sunday!

[Whizbang]

thanks! im hoping to make it to the meet saturday but without a ride, its looking hard.

[Max777]

When did you drive down? I used google maps, and it looks like you passed through my town in IL!

[Whizbang]

i got into mountain home on the 4th of december so i would say the 2nd?

went to the auto hobby shop today and took a look at the leak. I determined that it is the pinion seal. There is a nice rotation of oil splatter in line with the flange.

I also trimmed the front fenders. Ill aquire some hardware and get those flares mount asap. lll try to track down a camera as well.

[Whizbang]

Pinion seal was replaced. An rx7 seal will fit into the Kia 3rd member. Its a little different style but it appears to be working. That said, its still leaking from else where. Looks like one of the bolts. Ill have to jack the car up this week and take a peek.

Im getting rid of the side mount alternator. sorry, atkins, but i just dont see how the kit works with an FC engine. So alternator is going back on top and running both belts. Just need one damn connector to finish that up.

Also, the rallyX7 had a nice glass sunroof which now resides on this car!

Also, having complete my first drive in it. It runs like shit. Will be checking into the tuning asap once the above is all complete.

[Whizbang]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sMrq50Mm1hQ

update video!!

[Whizbang]

i determined that i have my injectors are wired where i could run stage injection (which currently i am not) and may help the car run much much better. Hoping to try this route this weekend or as early as tomorrow without driving the car.

[Whizbang]

i got the megasquirt to communicate with the laptop. Had to flash my fireware to the newest MS Extra 2.1.0 release. Ill discuss the changes im making in the setup tonight or tomorrow. Perhaps stay tuned for a video.

[Whizbang]

well the fender flares are done. I also installed a AEM UEGO for my tuning pleasure. Starting tuning last night. Seems i have a long way to go. Car seems like it wants to "miss" a bit which MAY be due to the tuning but i am not going to rule out any timing or ignition issues at this point.

[Whizbang]

going to see if i can get the datalogger to work for me today

[Whizbang]

blew the hell out of the rear end today...

[FerociousP]

that's what she said.... :leaving:

[12arotary]

that's what she said.... :leaving:

haha^^

this was quite the read! have any pictures of the car with the fender flares on yet?

[Whizbang]

my "good" camera should be enroute from my parents soon enough so there will be many a picture. Ill get pics of the aftermath in that of course. Going to find and toss in a standard issue 3rd member so that i can drive the car. But i think something like an 8.8 is in store.

[Whizbang]

rear end is fixed! 4.78s are still in her! More tuning to come once i have some more funding for fuel...

also the car is having an issue with pulling to the right when i get on the brakes. Going to try bleeding the driver's front caliper. If that doesnt work then i am going to rebuild the calipers. Still needs an FC booster and proportioning valve.

[Silver86]

rear end is fixed! 4.78s are still in her! More tuning to come once i have some more funding for fuel...

also the car is having an issue with pulling to the right when i get on the brakes. Going to try bleeding the driver's front caliper. If that doesnt work then i am going to rebuild the calipers. Still needs an FC booster and proportioning valve.


what kind of FC booster... i have a brand new booster from a TII that i dont need.

[Whizbang]

that would be the one

[Silver86]

that would be the one


i was tired when i posted... you did mean booster right? cause when i read what you needed... i read booster and thought master cylinder... which i have... not the booster.

[Whizbang]

either or. master cylinder is really the important part.

[Silver86]

either or. master cylinder is really the important part.

well... if you need it, let me know... we can work something out... i have no use for it anyway.

[Whizbang]

well see, shipping might make it not really worth the cost.

[MazdaMike]

Nice build, anxious for updates and I really want an 82 now lol.

[Whizbang]

im hoping to see my camera again sometime soon, i have tons of things to update on that are visually stimulating. like my fender flares

[rotarycrazy]

how the the wheels fit as far as rubbing running any spacers I am thinking about getting the same set for my SE.

[Whizbang]

i had to clip the sheet metal and add fender flares. I might have gotten away with doing some heavy rolling of the fenders but i went with "gratiutious amounts of space" method. No spacers, 0 offset, 8" width

[Whizbang]

some crappy iPhone pics.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/rx73.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/rx71.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Tsunami_Bomb/28314_551192194798_53703077_3190585.jpg

[Whizbang]

i am really considering making a new engine harness from scratch using all shield military spec wire. i am having some rather annoying issues with interference and / or grounding problems.

[rotarycrazy]

how difficult is it to tune the megasquirt I am considering on picking one up from a friend of mine for my rebuild once i get the car back.

[Whizbang]

its not that hard once you get it setup. i just seem to be having some issues with things making it difficult to get anything down

[project86]

this a cool build. i subscribed to your youtube channel. car is lookin great!

[infernosg]

Subscribing because I want to use the same (type of) intake system.

So you're currently using a N/A block with the 6PI manifold and just have the ports wired open? I have been holding out for a turbo block to avoid the aux ports, but I may have to resort to this type of setup if my luck continues.

[Whizbang]

Subscribing because I want to use the same (type of) intake system.

So you're currently using a N/A block with the 6PI manifold and just have the ports wired open? I have been holding out for a turbo block to avoid the aux ports, but I may have to resort to this type of setup if my luck continues.


the lower manifold is a simply maz made one for the 6pi so there is no provision for the aux ports. eventually i need to build another engine. this one is a stocker from a vert i had with at least 230,000 on it at this point.

and in other needs, im loosing pressure to the clutch, sooo need to see if its the slave or the master.

[Whizbang]

im thinking about getting some Crager V-5 wheels for racing tires. hope to make a hillclimb this season if i can get the car to be more cooperative

[Whizbang]

tach was cutting out. Replaced the trailing ignitor. Now its fixed!

[Whizbang]

so i am starting up another leg in this story. Expect some decent progress coming in the next two months including making my own coilovers, caging, fixing some damned wiring, and more!

[project86]

car is lookin nice. i like the flares alot. dont wanna thread jack but check out my thread in the near future (probably later today) and there will be a little project a friend and i are in the process of that i think you will like :) keep it up man

[RX-7 Chris]

any updates on the car?

[dr50376272]

i wish my wife would clean my car !