Brake rotor choices... which one?

[My5ABaby]

I'm going to be buying some new front brake rotors and I'm curious to see if anyone has experience with any of these brands (or if it matters). All of these are from Autozone, Advance, and O'Reilly.

My options are:
Beck Arnley: 31.99
Duralast: 28.99
Wearever: 28.98
Bendix: 79.48
Raybestos: 19.99
Wagner: 46.99
Brembo: 38.40

[djmtsu]

I work for Beck/Arnley. Therefore they are the best.

Seriously though, we don't deal in inferior parts. They have to all exceed the OE specs, not just meet the OE specs.

[My5ABaby]

I work for Beck/Arnley. Therefore they are the best.

Seriously though, we don't deal in inferior parts. They have to all exceed the OE specs, not just meet the OE specs.
Sounds like a plan then. :icon_tup:

[JL1RX7]

If you can find ten people to get cquence rotors they are not bad. I got the cross dimmpled and slotted for about 180 for all four shipped from cali to virginia. If not they about fifty bucks more. Had them for about six months and love them so far.

[Phoenix7]

Just get the brembo blanks or the BECKS (i've never heard of them but the guy above recommends them). OEM replacement and cheap.

Since we're on the topic of rotors:

Are tehre benefits to drilled and/or slotted rotors? I'm un der the impression that the holes help relieve heat and reduce brake fade but are there really reliability and cracking issues with them?? I've never had a problem but I'd like your input.

[djmtsu]

In my opinion, they are not worth it for a street car. Yeah, they might look cool, and impress your friends, but not necessary for most. And I have had too many friends use them on a DD and get the cracking around the holes.

The stock rotors (mostly the calipers) do a fantastic job at bringing the car down from speed.

[TehMonkay]

drilled/slotted crack when road racing, unless theyre very very whell made.

Napa sells blanks that are made in italy(i have some at home) i would try those or brembo.

[MaczPayne]

I have the cquence dimpled(not drilled!)/slotted rotors. We'll see how they do on July 13 at Buttonwillow :)

[WE3RX7]

I prefer slotted over drilled as drilled does seem to be more prone to cracking. Slotted gives better initial bite.

On the rally car we went with brembo blanks - higher than OE but no holes or slots to get dirt/grime caught up and cause delayed brake response!

I think like others have mentioned, for a street car a nice blank rotor from a superior company and good HPS pads from Hawk, and you're set.

[Phoenix7]

we have the drilled rotors and they held up fine at thunderhill but I still don't know if I should expect cracking or damage in the future.

[RETed]

Just say no to cross drilled brake rotors.


-Ted

[Phoenix7]

any more details?

[JL1RX7]

So far I have not noticed any cracking or the like on mine. My car is a DD not a track car so I know the rotoars are more show than anything else. But What I have noticed is a sharper intial bite, shorter stopping distance and better brake pedal feel. I did the SS brake lines, new master, new fluid, Hawk HPS in front, ceramic advance auto pads in the back. So other than rebuilding the calipers my system was reworked.

[RETed]

http://www.scirocco.org/faq/brakes/pulpfriction/pfpage4.html

Click on the buried link about "Those Poor Rotors".


-Ted

[Phoenix7]

So you're telling me that brake fade or "gassing," as that guy calls it,is no longer a factor in modern (60s+) cars? I don't believe that for one second.

[My5ABaby]

So you're telling me that brake fade or "gassing," as that guy calls it,is no longer a factor in modern (60s+) cars? I don't believe that for one second.
Everything I've been reading the past couple of days (trying to reach a decision on what to buy) agrees with that guy saying gassing really isn't a problem anymore. :dunno:

[RETed]

So you're telling me that brake fade or "gassing," as that guy calls it,is no longer a factor in modern (60s+) cars? I don't believe that for one second.

You're allowed to believe whatever you want to believe.

What is indeniable is the fact that drilling removes metal.
Removing metal lowers heat capacity.
So you have the same amount of heat going into less metal.
This just concentrates the heat more.
This is how heat risers and cracking develops easier.

If you want to pay for cross-drilled brake rotors, go right ahead.
It's your money.


-Ted

[My5ABaby]

I think I'm just going to go with blanks.

[My5ABaby]

I went with the Beck Arnley's. I hope they work out because they only have a 90 day warranty, compared to the 2 year on the Duralasts.

[88turboii]

i got the slotted rotors from rx7store.. i cant tell much difference from stock, but im still breaking them in, so no really hard braking yet

[My5ABaby]

There's a need to break in slotted rotors?

[RETed]

You need to break in any new brake rotors and / or brake pads.


-Ted

[Phoenix7]

just seat them though, right? Get up to speed (25mph) and brake fairly hard to get them seated. Or is there another procedure that's more appropriate?

[My5ABaby]

You need to break in any new brake rotors and / or brake pads.


-Ted

I've heard of breaking in the pads (After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph), but I hadn't heard of one for rotors. Or is it the same thing?

In my case, I'll be putting on a new set of Hawk HPS' and new calipers along with the new rotors.

Edit: I found this: http://shielsmasonry.com/Beddingpadsandrotors.pdf . It would seem that I could break in the rotors and pads at the same doing what the I put in parentheses above (After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph)

[RETed]

My break-in procedure...

Moderate stops from freeway speed - i.e. ~60mph x3
Heavy stops from higher speeds - i.e. ~100mph x3
Let the brakes cool down thoroughly after doing this.
Of course, all the usual disclaimers apply...


-Ted

[My5ABaby]

My break-in procedure...

Moderate stops from freeway speed - i.e. ~60mph x3
Heavy stops from higher speeds - i.e. ~100mph x3
Let the brakes cool down thoroughly after doing this.
Of course, all the usual disclaimers apply...


-Ted

Is this for new pads and rotors?

[RETed]

I've read somewhere that you should not be doing with new pads + rotors.
Either use used pads on new rotors or vice versa - new pads on used rotors.
I try not to use new + new.

I think my above break-in is from Hawk?
Or was it Wilwood... :P
Excuse the poor memory... :(


-Ted

[My5ABaby]

I've read somewhere that you should not be doing with new pads + rotors.
Either use used pads on new rotors or vice versa - new pads on used rotors.
I try not to use new + new.

I think my above break-in is from Hawk?
Or was it Wilwood... :P
Excuse the poor memory... :(


-Ted
Don't use new and new? Hmmmm. I've always heard it's best to put both new on at once, or at least resurface the rotors when you put on new pads.

Anyone else have input on this?

[RETed]

Hawk break-in procedure for "racing" applications:
http://www.hawkperformance.com/motorsports/faqs.php#Q5

Wilwood "bedding" procedure:
http://brakepads.wilwood.com/03-tech/index.html


-Ted