Great, another V8 FC drift car build thread :/

[StephenSheppard]

Build threads are not really my thing since they consume a bunch of time and stuff like that (Which I never seem to have enough of). But I said I would so here it is for those who may or may not care.

Quick recap of the last few years.

Had some FBs with 12As and 13Bs

Didn't really like FC chassis for whatever reason. I honestly can't even remember why since I love this chassis now.

Bought an NA FC to daily drive. 89 GTU.

Did that for a bit, fixed minor stuff on it, made a proper road car out of it and all that.

Got into drifting. Decided the FC was better for drifting than a FB, not for any fault of the FB but for the "off the shelf availability of parts". Coilovers are cheap and fenders and that sort of stuff.

Built a decent drift/street car based off my NA S5 engine. Racing Beat road race exhaust, streetported, and a bunch of other stuff. Made approx 200hp at the flywheel probably. Nothing spectacular. Faster than a RX-8, so whatever amount of power that takes. Other stuff like the T2 rear end and delrin bushings throughout the car from MMR. BC Racing coilovers, knuckles, the usual stuff that ends up in these cars.

I used the car for a bit of advertising for my company that is now closed due to lack of customer participation shall we say (Rotary Related). Still got to build dozens of cool cars and stuff. Had a lot of fun, made some money. Nothing crazy though.

Had fun drifting it this season. It does quite well. here's a vid of the car through most of the events I attended in 2012. Some events aren't in the video, but who cares.

http://vimeo.com/51454673

Anyways

The car was good enough to have some fun and link most of the tracks no matter how big the entries and all that were. Mostly it would be on 205s in the rear and would almost have to be brand new tires to have the compromise between off throttle grip and being able to break the tires lose. Sometimes very frustrating to drive.

Driving the car like this was a "one shot deal". you run the perfect line and do everything correctly and you look good and have fun. If you don't then you fail miserably and there's no coming back from a decent sized mistake, due to the fact the car just didn't make enough power.

I drove my buddies SBC FC somewhere at the beginning of the year. At the time I drove it, it was not well setup and the engine had some issues. It still had more power than was necessary and I enjoyed the five or so laps I took in it. So easy to drive and gave you the freedom to roam around outside the line with no issues such as not having enough power to connect the next transition.

I then bought a 13BT, street ported it and painted it, bought a BNR turbo Stage 4 S5 jam), a bunch of supporting equipment. Spent maybe 3000 bucks in a couple weeks. Was all ready to make at least 300whp. It was going to be awesome.

Then that nagging feeling came back, about driving my buddies SBC FC..........oh that feeling.........the devil possibly, lol.

So I sold all my recently purchased 13BT stuff to a friend who is putting together a FC drift car locally here. I still get to finish that up with him, and drive it and all that, so I feel I've won on both accounts.

I wanted to make a purchase to lock myself into the swap. So i sold my S5 drivetrain to another friend locally so he could put it in his AE86, since the 4AGE sucks. We swapped it in, super easy to do btw. Using a GSL-SE transmission it fits quite well. Here's a vid of that car........just has coilovers and factory steering capability. Not bad for the shakedown of this thing. Also my Buddies SBC FC is in this video as well. He has no front end because he's lazy and didn't want to reassemble it before the event.

http://vimeo.com/51958204

So after I sold that stuff to my buddy with the AE86 I bought the Granny speed shop small block Chevy mount kit (Locked in). You can mount LT engine's as well with this kit. Actually he just came out with adapters for the mounts to use the same kit to mount LS engines as well.

Now your mostly caught up.

No I don't care if someone doesn't like V8s in RX chassis, don't even bother arguing I'll just ignore you. I'm doing it for me and only me. Just about the only kind of engine I have not owned in any of my previous cars is a V8. I have gone back and forth with myself on this for over a year now. Then I finally decided "Fuck it I want it!" .......that is all. I may or may not have said 'Merica!

I'll add some pics and what not pretty quick here of the actual build.

[StephenSheppard]

Here's the granny's kit.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5732.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5733.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5734.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5738.jpg

I opted for the clutch slave cylinder mounting thing for a 4 speed transmission from an older Chevy (60-70s?). The older transmissions had mechanical linkage (Clutch cable I guess). Granny's makes a kit to bolt up a factory Mazda slave cylinder and gives you the clutch release fork and all that as well. The matching 3/4" bore Wilwood master cylinder to go with it was ordered as well. the only thing I'm lacking is the clutch hose. I'll just put AN fittings in the master and slave and get a stainless hose made. Simple stuff.

I bought the bellhousing from a old guy in DFW that builds 60's era drag rails. Made a friend as well. I'm sure his knowledge will come in handy should I need advice. He's been building SBC and BBCs his whole life. Super nice guy as well. It showed up painted orange. It's aluminium so i will media blast it and leave it natural. Looks like this: a.k.a. pumpkin head.


http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5770.jpg


The granny's kit comes with new hardware and stuff, but I absolutely despise black oxide hardware, and I dislike zinc coated steel bolts. So I spent like $90 on a bunch of stainless hardware to replace it all, I got a few extra pieces of hardware as well for other stuff. Got to start out baller then crumble to peasant status as time goes on. It's not all in this one photo but you get the idea. Bolt Depot plug.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5855.jpg

Some pics of the Granny's driveshaft. Grant does good work I like it more than I thought I would. I need to aquire the front yoke still from a Camaro or something similar. Not a big deal no hurry, I have yet to buy the gearbox anyways.


http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5873.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5874.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5875.jpg

[Sephitrask]

The fab work on that kit looks very good, looks like a pretty nice kit

[StephenSheppard]

I have a standard bore (4.00") small block 350 with rods, pistons, and crank I bought for $150.

I am still trying to decide how to approach the engine right now. I may build this one or I may end up buying a crate engine. It's pretty hard to decide honestly. there are so many awesome crate engines out there with basically any amount of power you can imagine. I'm trying to be realistic as far as money goes. I'm not rich I just play a rich guy on TV :)

That being said I looked into the factory rod to stroke ratio, to get familiar with the engine. Turns out it's got a 5.7" rod with a 3.48" stroke which comes out to 1.64:1 RL/S ratio which isn't great. Also turns out that you can buy off the shelf 6" rods and pistons with a raised wrist pin to fix this issue. That gets you 1.72:1 RL/S ratio. Much closer to the 1.75:1 ideal. Actually endurance engines run way higher rod to stroke ratio numbers but I'm just talking about stuff that anyone can buy quite easily. That will lower the amount of wear on the cylinder walls and produce more torque. Not that it needs more torque :coolgleamA:

Next was compression ratio. I looked up the casting number for my block and it's a 86 truck engine. 4 bolt main, 1 piece rear main, which is why I bought it. that and the fact it hadn't been bored over yet or had any machine work done to it. I'll be looking at probably 10:1 comp or a bit higher to get some efficiency out of this old monster of an engine.

Or I could just buy a crate engine, but where's the fun in that? I don't know yet, the engine goes on the back burner for now. I need to get the chassis stuff all finished up and straightened out first. The engine is the easy part really. I could also buy a running engine that someone's selling. They don't cost a whole lot so it's not really a big deal.

So with the 13B out of the way it was time to get to work on the engine bay which needed a ton of attention. I drilled as many of the holes and did as much of the prep work as possible that I knew would need to be done before repainting or any of that took place.

What I started with after a year of rough housing around with this thing. BTW most of that damage was not me it came like that but I never repaired it. I just drove it a lot lol.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5968.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5969.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5971.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

The fab work on that kit looks very good, looks like a pretty nice kit

It's quite good. I'm pretty happy with what they send you. And I'm pretty picky about stuff like that usually. I'd recommend it to anyone honestly.

[StephenSheppard]

Here's the radiator and fan setup from my 13B that I will recycle for the V8 swap. It holds the temps down on a 13B at 7000rpm+ on 105 degree days for hours on end.......it should be more than enough for the 350. It's one of the last ISC FB radiators modified to fit the FC chassis after I took it out of one of my FBs. Buick Century fan is a pretty serious fan. It cut the fan cycles in half or less (Temp controlled switch via a relay), in comparison to a regular 16" fan. Also the radiator is a double pass which gives the coolant some time to slow down and dissipate heat. I had no such luck with Koyos and stuff like most people run. Also a 22psi cap helps :)

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5972.jpg

It's going to need to move forward in the chassis quite a bit judging by Josh my buddies car. Approx. 6-8" forward. It's too tall to stand up right. It would stick about 2-3 inches out of the bottom of the car.

Here's what's hiding under the front bumper. An old repair from a collision with an immovable object while street drifting. That was dumb. I don't street drift anymore because of that lol. I threw this together to get the car drivable at the time.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5987.jpg


NOM NOM. That frame rail was way worse. I straightened it with a 12lb sledge hammer a bit lol. I use the term straightened very loosely.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5990.jpg

Just terrible.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5994.jpg


Out comes the sawzall and the cut off wheel. On a side note my old HF sawzall pulled itself apart and caught on fire while cutting the passenger side frame rail lol. It only made it about 1/2 way through and then destroyed itself. Pretty cool.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6002.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6004.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6005.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6006.jpg

Just a little bit of the bent part left. I can work with this now.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6007.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6008.jpg


What it should look like.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6009.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

The other day I was sanding and cleaning and got bored with that. So I wandered off and started building this pass thru deal for the starter and alternator cables. It will mount on the inside of the firewall where the factory engine harness passes through the grommet hole. More on that later as the car progresses.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5997.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6010.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6011.jpg

Btw you can buy those at VTE Warehouse, just Google them. They have lots of useful stuff.

Normally I wouldn't share that but like I said the company is closed so full disclosure.

Also my website is purely informational now and has a ton of cool stuff on it. Still in progress as there is so much stuff to upload yet. If you need to know part numbers for factory connectors and stuff for some of the Fc stuff you can find them here at the bottom of the page, the links under parts lists. Then look through the PDFs for what you need. Some of the connectors don't have links to purchasing locations due to the volume needed to buy them, but the part numbers are provided so you can Google them should you be lucky enough to find a few loose items out there in the interwebz.

http://www.rotaryrelated.com/FC%20Race%20harness.html

[StephenSheppard]

Also made this dude for the driver's side grommet hole where the front wiring harness will pass through. It's painted black now like the one for the other side just no picture, I think you get the idea though. It's for a Molex XRC connector set. Has the anti rotation jam built in. The hole was achieved with a printed paper template, a drill bit, and a die grinder. It's just aluminium so it took like 5 minutes to make. Bolts up to holes I put in the chassis already like the other side.


http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5998.jpg

You can find those at www.waytekwire.com and lots of other websites. The hole is cut for the 31 position connector. Which is more than adequate for the little amount of stuff I'm using.


Scraped all the chaulking from the engine bay. I can't stand how it looks. I know I'm wierd and my car will probably rust in half because of it, whatever.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6001.jpg


The interior is a train wreck right now. So much stuff to change, build, fix. New gauge cluster, new electrics for the whole chassis, cleaning, etc. At some point a roll cage has to get in here. So I'll have to notch the dash for that as well. I'm not sure what will come first. Still trying to figure out who's going to build what on this thing. Pretty much everything in that picture goes in the trash lol.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN5985.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

So my old sunroof plug was leaking a bit. So I fixed it.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5876.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5877.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5878.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5879.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5882.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5884.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5897.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5902.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5905.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5907.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5910.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5912.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5916.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5917.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5920.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5922.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5928.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5930.jpg


Still need to trim off the excess silicon and finish painting the roof. The reason there's over spray on the windshield is because it's cracked and being replaced so there was no reason to care really.

[StephenSheppard]

I don't like the door panels in my car because they are terrible, plus they had to go to make room for the roll cage. Here is my journey:

Started here with a modified T2 panel for window roller duty. has a hole cut in it due to the door not unlocking one time lol.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5939.jpg


Everything must go!


http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5940.jpg


http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5941.jpg


Rivenuts for attaching the cards.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5943.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5944.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5945.jpg

A crushed one. Basically they just clamp the material like a rivet. They are very secure if installed properly.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5948.jpg

I used a piece of acrylic (Plexiglass) for the door card template, because it's cheap and transparent.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5946.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5947.jpg

Temporary hardware for fitting. Yes my temporary hardware is stainless steel. I told you I have a problem :)

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5951.jpg

Cut the template up some more. The band saw works pretty good on this stuff. Oh I forgot to mention the sunroof is Lexan (Polycarbonate) not Acrylic. You'd have to have a death wish to use Acrylic there. If it shatters which it probably would it could saw your head off. No biggie, moving on.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5952.jpg

Attempting to get the door release handle hole situated.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5955.jpg

Window roller hole looks about right.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5956.jpg

Giant piece of aluminium for the actual door cards. I was originally going to use ABS plastic but then I remembered I didn't want to be sliced to pieces if it shattered so I didn't.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5959.jpg

The next bunch of pics were off my cell phone because the camera battery died, sorry.

Here's a nearly finished door card fitted.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/1104121743-00.jpg

Then I was coming up with possible door handle pull options. this ones pretty simple and very sturdy. I may go with it, but I still haven't decided yet.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/1104121735-00.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/1104121736-00.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/1104121736-02.jpg


The passenger door is super easy because the template is already made. Punched out the factory clip holes to the size for the rivenuts, bolted up the template, marked the other holes. drilled those, put the rest of the rivenuts in. Boom! done.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5957.jpg

Passenger door just before drilling the second set of holes. Also all this gooey black stuff needs to be removed so I can repaint the door. Plus I don't want it to get all over everything.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/door%20cards%20fc/DSCN5958.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

I'll have to post pictues of the finished door cards when I get them squared away. They will be covered in Di-Noc or painted with black wrinkle finish paint. Still undecided. Had an issue with some "Di-Noc" I bought from a dude on ebay. It was not 3M Di-Noc and it was junk so, I'll order some real shit and see what it's like instead.

Plan B isn't bad looking either. I've done a couple cars with the wrinkle finish black and it looks really good.

[StephenSheppard]

The plan so far is this:

BCL Wing
rear diffuser
30mm garbage ass fiberglass front fenders
same for the rear over fenders
new sideskirts (MOAR lower)
carbon fiber hood that will clear stuff in the engine bay
Might keep my factory S5 bumper, corksport lip and build a new splitter
repaint the car
repaint the engine bay
repaint everything really
fabricate a bash bar system or some sort
tub the front end more than likely
roll cage (Mentioned that already)
Probably new wheels 17x9.5 0 or 12 offset

I think that about covers it, then on to the drive train stuff. I already have a T2 clutch type rear end under the car and a dual 3" exhaust for the new engine. There's not much left to buy for the suspension. I may make some new knuckles with more steering angle since the front swaybar is coming off now. I'd be pretty happy with 60 degrees I have around 51 or so right now. Which is probably good enough. But with more power from the engine I'll be able to use more angle all the time so I may add some more.

Tons of stuff to do and buy.

[StephenSheppard]

So got a bit more done today. Ground down the cross tube brackets and got rid of them so I have all the room I want/need to mount the radiator. It took awhile, I'm pretty sure those damn things are forged in the fires of Mordor.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6013.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6015.jpg


Much better now. And it looks better as well.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6016.jpg


Thinking about mounting senarios for the radiator now.

First option like factory but moved forward. Makes ducting the nose of teh car super easy. I am leaning towards this option. It doesn't afford the radiator much protection though.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6019.jpg

Option 2 is just inverted compared to the factory mounting. A bit more protection offered since the radiator is only near the front of the car at a very low point where cars usually don't get crushed.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6020.jpg

Option 3 although most people would think this wouldn't work. It would indeed work quite well. Offers the most protection again bashing since it's so low but allows other damage to maybe happen from cones, tires, debris, etc. Basically laying flat in the nose of the car. I did have it tilted a bit upward in the picture though.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6021.jpg

We shall see. I'm not sure what I like most yet.

[StephenSheppard]

Some comparison pics are in order I think. Here's my buddy Josh's car with the "I don't give a shit about how it looks I just want to drift" approach.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/comparison%20photos/DSCN2453.jpg

If you use a HEI distributor, you can expect to have to bash the firewall in. Perhaps you could bash it a bit better than this though. I won't be using a HEI distributor for this very reason. Also his windsheild wiper linkage is not capable of movement anymore :( I'll be using a standard diameter distributor.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/comparison%20photos/DSCN2460.jpg

What you can expect for clearance on thedriver's side.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/comparison%20photos/DSCN2728.jpg

Passenger side clearance.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/comparison%20photos/DSCN2528.jpg

Clearance around the starter area.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/comparison%20photos/DSCN2737.jpg

This shot gives you an idea of the length of the engine.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/comparison%20photos/DSCN2749.jpg

Same thing on the other side.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/comparison%20photos/DSCN2751.jpg

So basically it fits fine, selecting components is important ahead of time. He pulled this whole thing out of a 3rd gen Camaro he had and just pretty much threw it in the car with the Granny's kit and called it a day. Utilizing the factory style mechanical fuel pump and all that sort of stuff. He doen't really have any issues after a couple small things were sorted out. has higher compression, bored over and all that junk. Whatever it makes more power than is necessary all the time.

I'll be mid-mounting the alternator on the passenger side to lower the height and have a better fitting hood and fancy stuff like that. Also cause I'd like to use a factory carbon fiber hood if possible.

I'll be spacing the rear of the hood up for added clearance for the air cleaner. Unless I go ahead and fuel inject it. Still contemplating that, as it will make the project take longer and cost far more.

Decisions, decisions......

[StephenSheppard]

And then this happened :/

Got tired of looking at all the rub marks on the underside, and considering I will be using a larger diameter wheel and tire combo in the future, the fender wells simply had to go.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6036.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6037.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6039.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6040.jpg


This rubbing action was due to a older set of wheels with less offset and a bad alignment. This wheel just barely clears as you can tell. Thats a 10.5" wheel with a +12 offset btw. So a 9" or 8" with the same offset would have a lot more space obviously. My target is a 9.5" with a 0 or a bit more offset so. No issues whatsoever. Plus the sway bar is going away. I won't need it anymore :)

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6042.jpg

Lots of room in front of the wheel. I didn't have to cut that much material out but I'd rather add material then live with the million-holed factory sheet metal.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6043.jpg

A bit aggrevating, So there's never a hole where you want it. So I made a new one reluctantly above the factory harness pass through.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6054.jpg

For this grommet. Just for the windsheild wiper harness and fan relay harness. Super lame but I don't want to run that stuff from across teh engien bay, as it looks tacky / messy.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6055.jpg

Over sized the brake line holes to 1" for these same grommets for the brake lines. The factory ones are long since deteriorated of course. I'll trim the nose as it over shoots the holder just a bit.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6056.jpg

Those grommets can be found here:

https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content/termins/specialty/html/310Series/310SeriesPage.php



Probably supposed to put this in the for sale section but I put it here anyways.


$60 shipped

Front swaybar endlinks (Mazdatrix) and Energy Suspension factory diameter bar bushings and brackets.

Here's the link to the Mazdatrix site for the endlinks I'm selling:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=H-M010F


Link for the ES bushings:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=H-95128

Also I have the Granny's speed shop swaybar spacers for sale. Brand new never mounted to my car. $30 shipped

Link:

http://www.grannysspeedshop.com/

Or $85 for all of it shipped.

OBO of course. I don't need the parts and a bit of loose change towards the car helps.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/swaybarstuff.jpg

My contact info is:

rotaryrelated@live.com
559-633-0376 (Stephen)
also a link to my FB account from my website www.rotaryrelated.com (In the top right corner)


Now it's time to reverse the cutting proccess into the building proccess :) It might take awhile for me to decide what I want to do and update this. So many possiblilities.............

[StephenSheppard]

Also this

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6062.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

A couple vids of the flimsiness of things at this point, incase anyone had any great ideas about cutting their car up to this extent without bracing anything.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/th_DSCN6051.jpg (http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6051.mp4)

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/th_DSCN6053.jpg (http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6053.mp4)

A vid of the brake line grommet to give you a better idea of what I'm talking about with trimming the nose of the grommet.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/th_DSCN6057.jpg (http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6057.mp4)

[StephenSheppard]

Going to knock out some of this simple stuff today.

[mattallac]

lookin pretty cool , I also have an fc but its a vert and i am also going to sbc or ls1 ( iron block truck) for drifting . how bad is the expense to do this kind of swap ? the drift car i am finishing now is a 79 glc sport with a 12a . good luck with the build , I have been watching this thread since you started , great info .

[josh18_2k]

why did you even keep that sheetmetal crossmember? i cut that crap out, mounted the radiator at 45* :)


http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p297/josh18_2k/LS1%20FC/IMG_0155.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

The top radiator support is just there for a locating / referencing point mostly. I may or may not cut it out. Rememeber I'm building all this stuff with no engine in the car, so you sorta need to know where some things are at least lol. If I keep it I will of course make it less flimsy.


Cost of this? I don't have a clue. I always go to far and I always spend too much. I'm not much of a budget building kind of person. Mine won't be cheap, someone else could make a running car pretty quickly if the car was already painted, hadn't been wrecked in the front end, etc. To give you an idea I have a $220 battery (AGM) in like a $150 battery box, or whatever it costs with all the parts lol. You get the point I think.

Even though this car is probably destined to be totalled I still don't have the ability to let myself slap it together and not care what the outcome looks like.

[StephenSheppard]

I'm not sure what the deal was, but photobucket was being weird for a day or so and not letting me upload anything.

Anyways here's a couple terrible pics of the little sub harness I made from the diagram up there^. I did however decide to add an additional connector that the 12V for the and start signal would be terminated in. makes the harness easier to take apart, install, and troubleshoot. Should a problem arise.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6068.jpg

In these next two pics there are no pop-in ziptie holders or anything since I still have to paint the engine bay. Also the red pass thrus remember are mounted to the backside of the firewall not the front like the picture. Just kind of put it there for explanation's sake is all.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6070.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6072.jpg


I borrowed a little flux core wire feed welder to start tacking stuff together for the front end. Don't judge me :P lol

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6077.jpg

All that will be finish welded. It all unbolts from the front of the car. At the tow hook position and the swaybar position. Obviously not finished yet but I needed to get that put together so I could start mocking up the radiator mounting stuffs.

Basically there's a piece of 1" angle iron bolted to the swaybar bracket holes, then the square tube comes up and meets it there. I finish weldign this thing off the car. I'll try to remember to weigh it for those thinking it's super heavy or whatever. The point of this is two fold: First it should be strong enough to make up for me cutting the cross tube out of the front there, and 2nd it holds the back of the splitter up and a panel in place to keep stuff from bouncing up into the engine bay. Anti-intrusion guard if you will.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6078.jpg

Lastly there's how the radiator will be approx. Basically it has to stay behind the blue tape marks (Measured off of Big Josh's car in the pictures above) and under the radiator support. To be sure it clears the main pulley on the engine and the hood at the top / front. It will be a bit lower and more angled of course. it's just leaning on the bumper for the picture since I had yet to make something to actually hold it up.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6076.jpg

I'll be trying to get the radiator mount stuff sorted today. But I need to run to the junkyard and measure some Camaro intakes and such to see what I have for clearance between the top of the engine and hood. Luckily we just put my factory hood on Josh's car a couple days ago so I have measurements from his for maximum height and all that.

I've decided this thing is going to be fuel injected. Now to decide which intake to use. The TPI one, or LT style, or Holley aftermarket, or Edelbrock aftermarket one. They reallly all come out about teh same in cost in the end, So it's more a matter of powerband and fitment really.

Here's a pretty cool page I found of some pretty decent testing on a 383 SBC:

http://xtremecarzone.com.au/index.php?showtopic=386

[Raksj04]

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/sunroof/DSCN5917.jpg

I hope you tirmed the bolts down. Those could give you some nasty punctor wounds if you don't.

[StephenSheppard]

LOL everyone is always worried about that. I'm not sure who is actually tall enough for their head to touch the outer skin of the roof and still have the ability to fit in the car. Don't worry it's taken care of already man.



Also a bit of this happened the other day. There was a bit a cracking and popping but the radiator support is back to it's original height on that side now.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6080.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

Haven't updated in awhile due to breaking my hand with a drill. yep a drill. It was super fun........

Basically my hand met a drill body that was spinning really fast and broke some of those little bones behind the knuckles. Hurt like hell was swollen up pretty good as well. Also i started a new job and that's borrowing a lot of my time lately.

I'll get back on this pretty quick though, my hand is nearly operational now.

[StephenSheppard]

Soooooooooooooo........

Ya I forgot to update this thread.......like a lot.

Let me try to figure out how this was going.



I started mocking up the radiator brackets. These were unfinished parts of course I was just trying to get some sort of direction on what I liked. Turns out I didn't like any of it lol. Here's some pics anyways.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6081-1_zps82f872b2.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6083-1_zps9e075fb5.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6084-1_zpsb0673b99.jpg


I messed with that for a couple days and couldn't get any kind of setup that was stable enough or would keep vibrations down to something I felt was appropriate for an aluminium jam bouncing around in the front of the car.

So I ignored the problem hoping it would go away or whatever lol, and moved on to finishing up the x-brace for the bottom of the front of the car.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6189-1_zps9323e6d4.jpg

I painted it and all that on my FB hood cause why not right? Later that turned out to be a waste of time and I had it powdercoated black with a bunch of other stuff.


Then I moved on to cut and notch the outside of the frame rails where that annoying little tab of metal sticks out that everyone beats in with a hammer to gain tire clearance.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6207_zps79b13ab4.jpg

I welded in some steel. Kind of bootleg but whatever.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6209_zpseda32fa2.jpg


I can't really remember what I did next so I'm guessing, but anyways at some point I modified the pedal assembly for the new Wilwood clutch master cylinder that comes with the Granny's Speed Shop SBC kit.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6212_zpsa970d00e.jpg

Basically I figured the alignment of the MC bolts and welded on tubing to support the firewall at the new hole locations. Copying the factory setup seemed like the thing to do. I just used a slightly larger size of tubing since it's not critical or anything.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6215_zps98ba204f.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6214_zps2a033cd5.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

The next pic in the camera was this, but it jumps past some other stuff. I guess I forgot to take some pics, get over it I guess.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6218_zps947ce108.jpg

You can see the radiator bracket changed quite a bit. Still had the bent rod passing through the diagonal square tubes at this point. That was again revised. I have heard you never dead head pipe into a frame rail......so I did that first thing as my approach to extending the frame rails lol......oops. Well I did leave some other stuff welded less so it can crush. We will come back to that. Added the mount tabs for the radiator bracket to the round frame extensions. The radiator is just hanging there in the pic trapped not actually mounted in any way.

Got this stuff powdercoated.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6220_zpsda55fc2e.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

Added some round stock to the inside edge of the fender well holes since I'm leaving the hole open and I don't feel like getting cut everytime I touch any of that.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6221_zps4acf4035.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6222_zps83443f4a.jpg


Had the subframe powdercoated.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6226_zps444cf5de.jpg


Pretty sure this is the pic just before I started prepping the engien bay for paint. Took everything off the chassis, then sanded, and sanded, and wire wheeled and basically it took forever since I can't dedicate huge amounts of time to teh car all at once. You can see there was a couple improvements made to the frame rail extensions.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6244_zpse5125b09.jpg


Seam sealer and some primer happened.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6251_zpsde86bbac.jpg


Bought a couple hundred dollars of stainless steel 3/16" tubing and fittings for the brake system. Bought more later lol.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6254_zps8bc8e48c.jpg


Bought an ASD hydro E-brake

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6259_zpsd7e43bd6.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6260_zpsd0fd747d.jpg


Cut my broken windshield out and finished primering the engine bay.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6262_zps036afc07.jpg

This stuff comes off super easy with a razor blade and then a soft wirewheel in a drill.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6264_zps1e84efff.jpg

No windshield status

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6266_zpscac4da29.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

Then we skip ahead in time again.

And........................................

Painted.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6269_zps2307881a.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6270_zps3a0c2222.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6274_zpsb0116740.jpg

Paint came out pretty nice. I dig it. The whole car will be painted that color when it's all said and done.

One the "bumper" I tried to stay away from doing too much heavy welding in hopes that this stuff will be destroyed in case of a say 20mph or more impact. hopefully it's a sound thought process. Also hopefully I never find out. To be realistic it is a drift car so the coolers will probably be destroyed in a decent speed collision.

Painted the wheelwells also. They will get all scratched up of course but figured it could start by looking decent and then I won't care about what happens later really.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6281_zps630840cd.jpg


Installed the subframe

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6283_zps6de0e06b.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

Something happened here

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6284_zpsa456e49e.jpg


More stuff goes to be powdercoated. The x-brace, the radiator bracket (revised for the third time), the slave cylinder mount, the steering rack brackets, the front LCA brackets, the engine cradle, and the trans bracket. Maybe some other stuff I don't know it's hard to keep track off honestly.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6286_zpse4574ea8.jpg


A neat picture with tubing nuts and sleeves lol

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6288_zpse3033d5b.jpg


Painted the brake booster and loosely mounted it and the brake master cylinder. Began the process of building the MC lines to the firewall bulkheads. The proportioning valve will be inside the car. One problem with the FC factory MC is that it has two front outputs right off the MC. I had to buy a plug for one of the outputs so that there would be just the one. The fronts brakes divide after the proportioning valve now, more on that later.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6289_zpsda66d487.jpg

Built the front brake lines up to teh bulkheads in the firewall as well. almost a finished product at this point.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6290_zps66876292.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6291_zpsb2e22e93.jpg


I didn't like how the rear MC brake line was laying out so I started over lol.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6293_zpsb5a08001.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6297_zps1f9e0707.jpg

Front line is on the right in the picture at the firewall.



Here's what's in the wheelwells. I used a staright -3AN bulkhead and bolted that through the brake line holder. All the brake stuff is now -3AN no more inverted flare stuff or any of that. Doing 37 degree flares is far faster and easier then doing double 45 degree flares, plus it looks cooler. I chose steel stuff due to the fact that is far more resilient than aluminium stuff. I don't need a brake line failure because a little rock popped a hole in something. Also the stainless stuff weighs such a small amount more it's not even worth mentioning really.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6301_zpsb7491224.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

Here's what it looks like on the inside of the firewall in case you were wondering. The bulkheads are 90 degree jams. In this picture they are not pointed in the right direction though. Yes there's tons of clearance to any moving parts.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6303_zps15a0d438.jpg


Before and after sand blasting the LCAs

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6304_zps2b37a6e5.jpg


I already had MMR's Delrin bushings in my control arms. They fit so well I had to rig up a bearing puller to get the dam things off so I could sand blast the arms lol. So if you ever wondered, yes they are very nice and fit almost a little to well. Good stuff though. I love the response these bushings add to the car.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6305_zpsbf4e6262.jpg

When I was done I clearcoated the arms then reinstalled the bushings. Not sre how the clearcoat will hold up but figured it might be worth a shot.

Sexy!

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6314_zpsf33f7c9a.jpg

Installed them with new stainless hardware.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6318_zps972c30e0.jpg


Installed the wiper linkage with new hardware as well.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6310_zps407c74ce.jpg

Hung the coilovers with new hardware..............I think you're beginning to notice the trend here.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6313_zps3e212a78.jpg

Unbolted my single piston front brakes and tossed them in the trash, time to finally put the 4 piston factory brakes on again. For a low powered car as before though the single piston brakes worked perfectly fine. They would lock up at speeds above 60 mph if you really gave them hell.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6319_zpsa1de48a3.jpg


Basically I tore down the wiper motor, cleaned it, sand blasted the body of it. Cleaned everything else and reassembled it. In the picture the top was still drying from repainting so here you can see the little electric motor parts.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6320_zps21dd1120.jpg


I was going to rebuild a set and sand blast them since I have a few but I think I'm going to go with rebuilt units from a parts supplier to save me some time. They will probably be painted black but I don't care too much what color the calipers are honestly.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6323_zps2f89afc0.jpg

I may still rebuild them myself, I'll see how I feel about it later I guess when i get ready to get that done.

[StephenSheppard]

I cleaned up the radiator a bunch since it's been in two cars over the last 5 years. Was starting to look a bit beat up and dirty. Installed the bracket after it got back from powdercoating.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6325_zpsb6058dc9.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6327_zpsf1516dae.jpg

Notice the mounting tabs changed to nuts and bolt for the diagonal square tubes. I used nylocs on the backsides of all these so it could be tight without crushing the tube.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6327_zpsf1516dae.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6328_zps7583a194.jpg


Stuck the clutch master cylinder in there. Basically some of this stuff is being partially assembled for hardware purposes. A lot of it will be final assembled later on as the car comes together.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6330_zpscca21490.jpg


This guy turned out pretty good.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6331_zps6b99af18.jpg


Engine cradle and steering rack brackets and hardware sorted.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6332_zps3aedcc81.jpg


One of my trans bracket factory holes had the threads pulled out of it a while back, which is super awesome so the back one in this pic is a stud and nut now.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6336_zps4e4ebfa0.jpg

Cut this terrible hole in the passenger floorboard to gain access to the backside so I could weld a bolt in there to fix the pulled thread issue. i'll fix up the hole and make a plate to cover it up later. For now it will look terrible.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6337_zpsdec3520e.jpg



Not sure but yeah there's something to look at lol.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6343_zps390ed58d.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

Dat new new

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6345_zps6d8860a4.jpg

Radiator clearance

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6348_zps0e29b95f.jpg

Brakequip plug for the brake mastercylinder I was talkign about earlier. M10x1.0 inverted flare plug. (BQ18 part number I think it was)

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6364_zps392e8293.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6365_zps077a325a.jpg

There she is installed

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6368_zpsbb457925.jpg



I felt the need to have cool looking clamps for the brake lines. Also I'm pretty sure I hate money.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6370_zps2f9f4795.jpg

BOOM instant dopeness

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6372_zps41f2d66c.jpg


Mounted the proportioning valve here at the lowest point under all the dash stuff so none of these lines will ever have to be removed unless they themselves need to be removed for some reason. Also I can easily reach the biasing valve knob to control the rear brake pressure for various different tire types and sizes. It's a Wilwood component, just flipped over on it's front, then I nerded it up by labeling the inputs and outputs on the backside to make my life easy. Bolted through the tunnel with ..........you guessed it brand new stainless hardware lol. Bent up some hardlines.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6375_zpsd3234667.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6376_zps0ba6a882.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6378_zps84f3eb8e.jpg

Closer! lol

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6380_zps0782fa0e.jpg

Installed more clamps.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6381_zps0bd245c5.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

Power steering cooler showed up from china. Still need to make some mounting stuff for this thing. It doesn't go there , but that gives you an idea of it's size at least.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6383_zps89c73eb0.jpg


Went back to my Honda roots for a minute and hit up Blox for this stainless coolant overflow tank. I love the 1/4 turn lid and the fact the hose fittings are on the bottom.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6384_zpsa32658b4.jpg

Made an aluminium bracket for the tank

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6386_zps39952e2f.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6388_zps9eff0542.jpg


I was talking to my uncle in Canada about the project and he mentioned he had a 87 Corvette TPI intake he didn't need anymore. Sent it to me for my birthday. Pretty cool deal. Lots of changes will be made to this so it will fit the project needs better. More on this guy later.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6385_zps710bbc3a.jpg


Rebuild kit for the steering rack. Need to tackle that still.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6390_zps2eabb423.jpg


New hardware for the front calipers.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6391_zpsa9250be7.jpg


New steering rack bushings, my old ones were pretty trashed, heads up on these they cost about 45 bucks which is a terrible price in my opinion.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6392_zpsda3ad253.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

So I rebuilt my steering rack, then made a seperate post about it in the FC forum. Here's the internal link:


http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?p=234794&posted=1#post234794


That took a lot of time due to the picture taking :(

Didn't get much else done today.

[StephenSheppard]

So moving forward after the steering rack rebuild.


Bought these dudes for spacing the hood hinges up away from the body. Normally they go on the bottom of the hood above the top hinge piece but since the FC hood is angled there it's far easier to just space it on the bottom then build a complicated piece that's offset for the hood. Then I just notch the fender for the clearance of the now taller assembly.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6545_zps1755004a.jpg


Changed my mind on the right side engine bay harness. Although I won't have 14 wires on that side I decided to use this Molex XRC bulkhead connector anyways. I had it left over from another project so instead of wasting money I decided to use it on my own car.

You can find that at the following link:

http://www.waytekwire.com/products/22/Deutsch-HDP-Compatible---XRC-Connectors/

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6416_zpsa79ba109.jpg


There's still a couple more things to add to this harness but nothing much. The ignition coil wiring may end up on this side of the car, not sure yet on it's placement.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6542_zps38cbcbf2.jpg


A little closer view. The pass through deals are for the alternator cable and the starter cable. Seperate for a reason we will get to at some point in the build.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6543_zpsaa440885.jpg


I like details like the clip on this connector. Not technically the correct one but it works well anyways lol.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6549_zpsa91eac54.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

After taking what felt like one million years to drain the tank I removed it and started on the surge tank and second fuel pump. I think there was 16 gallons in the car, seriously it took forever. Put all the fuel in my otehr two cars lol.

First I gatherered everything up and got an idea of what was needed as far as space goes. I wanted to preserve as much of the trunk space as possible. Cheap chinese surge tank, check. External Walbro loud ass pump, check. And some AN fittings.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6554_zps8605fe66.jpg

My original layout idea.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6557_zpsae1eaebc.jpg

It's so dirty under there. I still need to drop the rear end so I can remove the factory hardlines and build new 3/8" stainless stuff.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6560_zpsd2d8d073.jpg

I cut a piece of steel to be tacked to the floor of the trunk to give myself a flat surface to build on, It is my hope when this is fully enclosed that should there be a minor fuel leak it will go out the bottom of the car along with any fire lol. Not sure how that's going to work out. Hopefully I'll never find out. The rason the plate doesn't extend to the blue line is that I felt it was too big for no reason.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6561_zps56c9e077.jpg

This was option 1

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6564_zps28756497.jpg

Option 2

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6566_zps2e1ddc27.jpg



I'll more than likely go with option two. I'll also more than likely cut the angle stuff on a 45 at the corners. I'm hoping to find a piece of scrap aluminium somewhere to build the top out of so the enclosure doesn't weigh anymore than it needs to. Called it quits for the night after this cause I was tired of it to be honest. Also i need to order some fittings to get final clearances for the enclosure. For those not familiar with surge tanks, it goes like this. In tank pump keeps the the surge tank full. External pump takes fuel from the surge tank and sends it to the engine. Pretty simple way to get rid of the fuel pick up problem on FC chassis while turning left. There's pretty much no condition under which the main pump won't keep the surge tank full enough to keep the second pump feeding the engine.

[StephenSheppard]

After getting off work today I took a couple minutes and dropped the rear end/suspension out of the car so I could remove the factory hardline deal that runs under the entire car. It's trapped above teh subframe and differential if anyone doesn't already know that lol.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6568_zpse9d92ede.jpg

Never let your caliper hang off your soft brake line. Always ziptie them up. When I remove the rear end as an entire assembly I leave the coilovers in and the brakes hooked up.

Also I'm going to be sellign the brake lines shown here and the front One's as well. Only the rears have ever been on the car, the front ones are brand new. I'll include the crush washers and banjo bolt as well. Say $50 shipped in the contenital USA? Just holler at me if your interested. I'm building new ones that are AN fitting types so that's the only reason I'm even selling them.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6570_zpsbed8a52c.jpg

That needs to go

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6571_zps43673576.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6572_zps306fee84.jpg

And here it is pulled out ready to go in the garbage.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6573_zps495a76df.jpg


I highly recommend MMR's Subframe and diff bushings. They are Delrin and super solid. I have yet to have any issues with these. Been in the car for a year or two.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6574_zps524ced62.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6576_zpsab5758f8.jpg

Something that happens a lot on my car. I always seem to get tire shreds stuck in the brake assembly and wrapped around the hubs.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6575_zps4904cfc2.jpg

Another reason I recommend the MMR diff bushings. Since I installed them I have yet to break a front diff mount. It looks like there's a tiny crack but it's just the casting or whatever you call it for rubber stuff. I was only making probably 160lbft of torque but this mount has like 1000 clutch kicks on it at least. We will see how it does with the V8.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6577_zps446a5565.jpg

Waiting on a bunch of stuff to arrive from Summit Racing still, fittings, tube, hardware, bla bla bla

[StephenSheppard]

So today's my day off and I decided to get some of the rear brake lines done while I'm just sitting around waiting on FedEx and UPS to bring me stuff.

I used -3AN straight bulkheads on each side through the factory brake line holders. Just flat washers, a lockwasher and nut. Bam done. Easiest thing on the whole damn car.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6579_zps87a36dcb.jpg

Bent up some more stainless tube for the right rear from the factory junction block to the holder. I'll put the nuts and sleeves on this after i have the fittings for the junction block, which is supposed to come today.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6586_zps63a442b5.jpg

Same deal here.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6587_zps9744fc3a.jpg

Stuck the new line in the car to get an idea of where I want the new clamps. The factory plastic clamps do fit the 3/16" line just fine if anyone wanted to know. Mine are a bit beat so I'll use new aluminium clamps like the stuff in the front of the car, cause I hate money basically.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6582_zps1900f4f3.jpg

Dat fitment!

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6583_zpsf14d575e.jpg

So damn many bends at the end of this thing. PITA to make.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6584_zps14787d26.jpg

Now if the delivery dudes will get here I can finish this up and build the fuel lines and stuff. Also have some misc stuff coming like a new oil pan and whatever else I bought I can't even remember lol.

[GySgtFrank]

Coming along nicely. Peace of mind with the new lines will be nice.:)

[StephenSheppard]

Yep new stuff is always nice. I'm sure somethig will not get tightened the first go round and it'll leak on something lol.

I'm going to have to check every single nut and bolt on the car after assembly honestly. Some stuff I left hand tight on purpose, some stuff is tightend all the way.






So my some of my stuff arrived finally late in the day, got a bit more work done but then it started getting cold and I was hungry lol.

Installed the M10x1.0 to -3AN fittings in teh factory junction block.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6597_zpsb99d4a3a.jpg

Added the bulkhead just below the junction. This runs between the junction and eventually the output of the hydro ebrake.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6599_zps06b24ff9.jpg

That's where it is in the inside (Driver's storage bin area).

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6600_zps92f678c9.jpg

Finished up the left rear line.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6602_zps8e23a62f.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6603_zps121b92a7.jpg

Right rear line finished.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6609_zpsef7b1553.jpg

Installed the line clamps. I did reuse the factory plastic clamp in the right corner there, since it still worked fine. It also kept me from having to drill a hole through the first layer of trunk steel to find the inside of that little welded on bulkhead to get a nut on the backside. Also using a rivenut was out of the question do to space constraints. The tool can't fit in that awkward little corner.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6610_zps2d2a2957.jpg

Fits like factory, no biggie.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6612_zpsc33a8e5d.jpg


My new fuel filter. If it turns out to be inadequate in flow I'll just get a different one later. It's for fuel injection and supposedly flows fine for what i need. We shall see. It's only like $40 or something like that and has a replaceable element. Doesn't come with the -6AN fittings, you have to buy those seperately.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6596_zps6f704d9c.jpg

Had some 1-1/4" clamps left over from my wiring harness business, they fit pretty snug. You might even be able to get some 1-1/8" ones on if you wanted to try that hard.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6601_zps60832708.jpg

Mounted her up near the factory location. Reused one factory hole and popped a rivenut in the frame for the other hole. Should be plenty of clearance there for the steering shaft and header.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6618_zps167cf764.jpg

More rivenuts to mount the surge tank and second fuel pump. A bit of time was consumed on making that little humble looking hard line between them. Took a couple trys to get it right. It is the absolute smallest shape possible for both my tubing bender and my flaring tools (Imperial brand BTW). Just enough tube to grab with the sleeves pulled back all the way to be able to flare the ends. Probably could have just used a 90 degree long AN coupler or something but after failing the first attempt I decided it was going to happen whether it liked it our not.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6616_zpsbf1bc43a.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

Got the fuel line parts in a while back and started in on that. Got it mostly finished up during a couple hours here and there after work and what not. Started in the engine bay close to the brake booster and mounted the bulkhead fitting brackets via rivenuts.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6620_zpsff3a91f0.jpg

Here they are together

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6622_zps929b0b03.jpg

Withe the -6AN bulkheads threaded in hand tight for now while I'm building everything. I'll add lock washers later to keep them stationary.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6623_zpsaf0c78f6.jpg

Got this small section of the feed line finished up pretty quickly. On a side note everything above the bulkheads will be soft line to the fuel rails.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6627_zpsd69ea03c.jpg

Started messing with my fuel pump housing and stripped it down, measured stuff to see if what I wanted was possible, and it is but just barely :)

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6630_zpsf2a9df69.jpg

I'm using a S4 housing since it's super easy to solder whatever gauge wire I like to the top of the pass throughs.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6632_zps684e814c.jpg

Next i cut the factory feed and return tubes off the housing.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6634_zpsdd137f79.jpg

Then drilled them out, to get a good starting point for what's next.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6635_zps04669fc8.jpg

-6AN fitting for the feed out of the in tank pump. and a -6AN bulkhead "T" for teh two return hoses. Hopefully they will be able to share the same return tube. If this ends up causing an issue then I'll add a second tube and replace the "T" with a straight bulkhead. PTFE washers to help keep fuel inside. I'll probably cut a countersink on the top side of the housing in each hole so I can put a O-ring under each washer, which should keep vapor from escaping.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6636_zps953cc639.jpg

Just another angle. There is just enough room between the + terminal for the pump and the blue AN fitting for the feed. *wipes sweat from forehead

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6637_zps258548bf.jpg

Here's what the bottom looks like at this point. As you can see the feed has a tiny issue. There's not a completely flat surface for the washer to seat against. This is the reason I'll be adding the O-rings.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6638_zps4c43e3ad.jpg

A simple push-lok fitting and hose for the pump.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6640_zps899a7536.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

The fuel level sender can still fit but just barely, here's a few pics of it.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6641_zpscfd055a3.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6642_zpsda9d6aa8.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6643_zpsd5ba8fe4.jpg

Made the return dump tube out of some left over stainless tube.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6654_zpsbe13846a.jpg




Bought my self some new FTP lenses and bumper lenses. They look amazing when they are new btw.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6646_zps8d2fdbd9.jpg



Found this cost effective solution to the "rebuilding front calipers dilemma" Autozone $44 each with a $55 core each. They look awesome. I figured they would come painted black like most remanufactured stuff, but they are bare aluminium like they shoudl be. Pretty stoked about this.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6648_zpsf453dbbe.jpg

Beautiful

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6650_zpsc89bdd3f.jpg

They have all brand new hardware and springs and all that junk for that price.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6651_zpsbdf55daa.jpg

Packaged up my cores and took them to my local store even though I bought the calipers online. Returned them and got my $110 credited back no issues at all.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6652_zps5a681de6.jpg


Here's the rear section of the feed line, mostly done at this point. I may trim the length a bit at the bulkhead as it's a bit too tight and fiddly still.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6655_zps202aabb6.jpg

Looks like it's touching that washer but it's not. In fact its not touching anything really except the brackets.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6656_zps3cad9d7c.jpg

Still needs the rest of the clamps under teh belly of the cra. For now I just put enough on so I could get the hard part out of the way, which of course is the intricate bends at the rear of the car.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6658_zpsd5724620.jpg

It's really hard to get a good picture of this area because the car is so close to the ground.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6659_zps8b0274fa.jpg

Here's the return line now.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6661_zps29d9027b.jpg

This little piece of the feed line from the second pump to the bulkhead was a bit challenging. Took a couple tries to get it right. Here's some pics of it from different angles. It's completely suspended. at first I was going to use soft line but then I realized there was no point since the line goes from something mounted on the chassis to something mounted on the chassis.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6662_zpsed1702af.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6663_zps682eb3d9.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6664_zps9eadaccf.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6665_zpsfb1cbbd0.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6666_zpsd1eaced4.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6667_zps5569d7c8.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

Also bought a couple things for the engine. A new oil pan and gasket set. Damn SBC stuff is retarded cheap. if I remember correctly this oil pan is like $35 lol

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6593_zps567be0a6.jpg

Bought this for maximum laziness lol. Some people say they drain slowly. If it's junk then no matter since the new oil pan came with a proper plug as well anyways.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6645_zpsf026f12a.jpg

Other stuff I already have but haven't taken pics of is a Brand new starter, a new alternator, a freeze plug kit for when I rebuild it, a mechanical fuel pump block off plate thing. And some otehr stuff I can't remember, just little stuff for now. I don't have anywhere to put anything big at this time besides in my house lol.




I order this little heater for the car from Summit as well. My buddy had one in his old Ford Falcon and then when he got rid of the car he put it in his Cressida drift car. It worked plenty good in the winter in both those cars, so I'm guessing the interior volume of a FC chassis should be fine with this size as well. they make a bigger one that costs a bit more. This one is like $144?? soemthing like that. Getting tired of freezing my ass off in the winter time. This is a blower and heater core all in one package.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6588_zps95534c5a.jpg

The inlet and outlet are 5/8" the covers are on in the picture so it looks wierd.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6589_zpsee9eec86.jpg

As you can tell it's quite small. Works perfectly fine though. I think it's 12,000BTUs. i don't know check the summit site. Three speed fan.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6590_zps77b0202a.jpg

Here's the front side, you can use flexible tubing to get the heat wherever you want. i'll probably just let it pour out under the dash everywhere and call it good.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6591_zpsf7da5d3d.jpg

Comes with powdercoated brackets, a small wiring harness, and a rotary syle switch. Pretty basic stuff.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6592_zps4d68cd26.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

Finished up my power steering brackets finally, due to my Uncle in Canada bugging me about it and how the cooler would shake itself apart. Shit isn't going anywhere now. i can double as a bash bar at this point.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6668_zpsa8db1528.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6669_zpsde5b7a9f.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6670_zpsc4e893c5.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

So this happened next? I'm lost lol

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6671_zps11a1de75.jpg


Still had these bad boys new in the packaging lol. The date on them is hilarious.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6673_zpse0e4f0e8.jpg

Hung the calipers and put the AN fiittngs in them. Does anyone know if the big spring goes on the bottom or top???? I can't even remember lol. Probably doesn't matter, but damn these are sexy with all new hardware and stuff.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6675_zps79c19751.jpg

Dat new new

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6677_zps3a7f7aa5.jpg

Tore this thing all apart, got rid of the ignition cylinder.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6678_zpsd3c6d63f.jpg

Painted and installed my headlight stuffs. Came out pretty cool, ain't mad at it.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6680_zps6a62b152.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6692_zps71f8f4ac.jpg


This is terrible and went in the trash can. I can't roll like that. A new one or substitute will be ordered. It's the grommet for the steering column.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6688_zps3741892f.jpg

Steering column stripped down and repainted. Color looks super wierd in this picture. Might go black anyways after all.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6690_zps5ed0ebb4.jpg

Messing with these almost perfect fenders I got from a buddy. Just thinking and getting ideas.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6699_zpsafd403f7.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

Started building this cover for the fuel stuffs. It's all one piece that is removed by undoing 8 little M5 bolts at the base and lifting up. It is fully enclosed even though some of the pics don't show it. All aluminium, even the rivets lol. weighs like 2 lbs.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6706_zps2f531cb4.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6709_zps17d63d9c.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6714_zps4b24b299.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6718_zps961d19b4.jpg

inside

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6720_zpsabef988c.jpg



New vent hose before the tank goes back in.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6730_zps8c1f4047.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6732_zpse1933a7e.jpg

I was really worried about the clearance to this feed hardline, but as you can tell there's no issue at all.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6733_zpse7b6545e.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6739_zps924f70e4.jpg

New hoses and stuff for the vent/rollover valve thingy. Cause why not?

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6740_zps659b5607.jpg


Fits so good. I love it.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6743_zpsb5f2116f.jpg

This moth picked the worst place ever for a vacation.....just saying.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6746_zps1464ae87.jpg

[StephenSheppard]

Kinda just tossed the unfinished fuel pump housing in the tank to see what I would need as far as fittings and hose for the last three hoses.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6747_zps842ec97f.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc505/rotaryrelated/veightstuff/DSCN6749_zps9e0e3185.jpg