7 Reasons Why NOT to buy a centerforce clutch

[TitaniumTT]

Since a picture is worth a thousand words.....

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=12521&stc=1&d=1351792790

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=12522&stc=1&d=1351792790

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=12523&stc=1&d=1351792790

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=12524&stc=1&d=1351792790

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=12525&stc=1&d=1351792790

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=12526&stc=1&d=1351792790

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=12527&stc=1&d=1351792790

[TitaniumTT]

All this happened @ 11psi boost and 364rwhp on the dyno..... rolling into it, so no shock.... centerforce SUCKS

[Monkman33]

Damn....

[ZGN]

Your FC? When did this happen?

[TitaniumTT]

Not my FC, customer, fellow member, and friends car... 2gslse... his 13B-RE w/an ApexiRX6 turbo kit, VMIC, Haltech PS1000 etc etc.... ACT HD/SS installed already, just got a few things to button up and we'll be back on the dyno.... whenever the shop gets power back anyway...

[Pete_89T2]

DAYUM! Looks like the clutch friction material is just riveted to the disk - I can't tell from the picture, but was there also an adhesive bonding the friction material to the disk? If not, then if one rivet shears it might lead to the spectactular failure we see here.

[2gslse]

LOL.... first weak link found. next weak link tires/traction then diff/ring and pinion
Good to see you back in one piece even if the shop is dark good thing you put it on the rack before you left.

Not bad for a FB its gonna be like driving on ice when its done at high boost

[rxspeed7]

twin plate is the only way to go unless your a pussy......

[2gslse]

twin plate is the only way to go unless your a pussy......

twin plate would be nice but too much money for me on a clutch. running a act in the fd for 8 or 9 years now almost 400 at the wheels with no slipping.

[daleclark]

It might be good for other cars, but over the years I've found the Centerforce clutches to be primarily a marketing gimmick. They don't hold much power and aren't that well built, yet they're pricey. No thanks.

Dale

[WE3RX7]

At least my old clutch had a spectacular ending. I'll admit that I'm actually the one who purchased that Centerforce about 6 years ago for my FC project... I ran it on the FC for about 200 miles before pulling the engine and then selling it another friend who never used it and eventually sold it to 2gslse.

The justification I had at that time was because a friend of mine was using one on his cobra 5.0 with no issues, so my logic was that if it could handle the 400ftlbs he was making of torque, my little 10psi 13BT engine would have no problem with it. I actually learned after installing it that a lot of rotary guys were having trouble with centerforce. Life lesson.. if nobody bought one and blew it up then we'd never know :)


Glad to hear the new ACT is in place. Hopefully you'll have it back before you'e literally driving on ice!

[FC Zach]

It might be good for other cars, but over the years I've found the Centerforce clutches to be primarily a marketing gimmick. They don't hold much power and aren't that well built, yet they're pricey. No thanks.

Dale

This may be true, Ive bought two of them. The first one I had on my daily for many many years and the second clutch was for my 2nd gen. I've never had any issue with either of mine. I've inspected the clutch on the Mazda after being installed for well over 5 years sometime last year and saw no visual defects. I absolutely love the pedal feel of the Centerforce DF clutch!

Now, with that being said. . I wouldn't buy another. Even though I may not have experienced any problems, that doesn't mean this couldn't happen to me either and those pictures are enough reason to deter me from ever wanting another (I was always skeptical about the Kevlar patches and how they were mounted). I would've guessed that those would have released before the carbon side let go.

Thanks for sharing the pics, I'll be in the market for an Exedy clutch next and at the moment I'm reminded that I should invest in a good quality shield like the unit Goopy produces http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=14846

[RotorDad]

I had a Dual Friction & it was pure garbage. Damn thing came apart on me, but I should have known after the same thing happened to two of my friends before hand. Mine looked like the one above, except one of the springs popped out the hub as well. Then I went with an Exedy set up after the Centerforce shit out.

[2gslse]

I never heard anything bad about the centerforce before I bought my first one for a GSLSE so when this one popped up (may as well been free) with no miles on it to speak of I put it in my turbo FB it was always a question of what would be the first failure but I figured it would have lasted a little while before slipping and acting as a fuse to protect the axles. never thought it would explode on the dyno making a pull.

[one320fc]

Makes me feel better I never used that clutch, sorry MC

[RETed]

I'm one of the few who has had no problems with the Centerforce Dual-Friction in a 1987 Turbo II.
The engine has never made over 300bhp.
I would never recommend the clutch to anyone making close to 300hp at the wheels.

The clutch looks like you need to be very careful on break-in.
I happened to break my clutch during a fresh rebuild, so I took it easy over 2,000 miles.

After the careful break-in, I did not hold back, but max power was only 253hp at the wheels on a DynoJet.
The car and clutch survived a brutal 30 minute session at the drag strip which involved 17 runs and trying to dial-in my launch.
(The dial-in involved drag launches from 3,000RPM up to 6,500RPM with varying amounts of gas pedal and clutch slippage.)
Even through launches that wheel hopped or "smoked" (i.e. burnt clutch smell), it never failed.

I've pulled the trans 3 times so far, and inspected the clutch (disc) every time.
So far, nothing obviously wrong with it.
Wear was even, but due to all the drag launches, wear is obviously greatly increased.
At 20,000 miles, the clutch was already 3/4 worn.

The car recently put down a leisurely 240hp on a Dynapack dyno, which when adjust for DynoJet #'s is actually more than the earlier 253 level.
240hp Dynapack + 10% conservative adjustment puts it around 265hp DynoJet.
The car has about 30,000 miles on it now, and I expect to replace the clutch soon.

Problem with ACT...
Unless you have GOOD hydraulics, the heavier ACT pressure plate tends to blow your clutch hydraulics.
Even if you have good hydraulics, the heavy pressure plate just wears the stock hydraulics prematurely.
The ACT (pressure plate) also tends to kill pivot balls on FC turbo transmissions.
I do have an ACT...just in case.
...but I'd rather go twin.
I've driven OS Giken and Carbonetics, and they are bad ass.
Superior clamping force...
Less wear&tear on hydaulics...
Easier on the leg...
And it's probably the last clutch you'll ever buy unless you go 20B...


-Ted

[730RWHP12A]

I'm one of the few who has had no problems with the Centerforce Dual-Friction in a 1987 Turbo II.
The engine has never made over 300bhp.
I would never recommend the clutch to anyone making close to 300hp at the wheels.

The clutch looks like you need to be very careful on break-in.
I happened to break my clutch during a fresh rebuild, so I took it easy over 2,000 miles.

After the careful break-in, I did not hold back, but max power was only 253hp at the wheels on a DynoJet.
The car and clutch survived a brutal 30 minute session at the drag strip which involved 17 runs and trying to dial-in my launch.
(The dial-in involved drag launches from 3,000RPM up to 6,500RPM with varying amounts of gas pedal and clutch slippage.)
Even through launches that wheel hopped or "smoked" (i.e. burnt clutch smell), it never failed.

I've pulled the trans 3 times so far, and inspected the clutch (disc) every time.
So far, nothing obviously wrong with it.
Wear was even, but due to all the drag launches, wear is obviously greatly increased.
At 20,000 miles, the clutch was already 3/4 worn.

The car recently put down a leisurely 240hp on a Dynapack dyno, which when adjust for DynoJet #'s is actually more than the earlier 253 level.
240hp Dynapack + 10% conservative adjustment puts it around 265hp DynoJet.
The car has about 30,000 miles on it now, and I expect to replace the clutch soon.

Problem with ACT...
Unless you have GOOD hydraulics, the heavier ACT pressure plate tends to blow your clutch hydraulics.
Even if you have good hydraulics, the heavy pressure plate just wears the stock hydraulics prematurely.
The ACT (pressure plate) also tends to kill pivot balls on FC turbo transmissions.
I do have an ACT...just in case.
...but I'd rather go twin.
I've driven OS Giken and Carbonetics, and they are bad ass.
Superior clamping force...
Less wear&tear on hydaulics...
Easier on the leg...
And it's probably the last clutch you'll ever buy unless you go 20B...


-Ted

this info is as accurate as its going to get.. well said Ted

[TitaniumTT]

LOL.... first weak link found. next weak link tires/traction then diff/ring and pinion
Good to see you back in one piece even if the shop is dark good thing you put it on the rack before you left.

Not bad for a FB its gonna be like driving on ice when its done at high boost

Yup yup.... kept her inside for the storm ;)

twin plate is the only way to go unless your a pussy......

Thank you....

It might be good for other cars, but over the years I've found the Centerforce clutches to be primarily a marketing gimmick. They don't hold much power and aren't that well built, yet they're pricey. No thanks.

Dale

Yeah.... I killed one on my old n/a FC....

Glad to hear the new ACT is in place. Hopefully you'll have it back before you'e literally driving on ice!

Not likely.... snow on Thursday ;)

Makes me feel better I never used that clutch, sorry MC

:rofl:

this info is as accurate as its going to get.. well said Ted

Yup yup.... except I've never had problems with the ACT HD PP, the Extremes are known to kill hyrdo's and pivots, the HD's seem to be ok

[Ian]

Same thing happened to my centerforce. let go in spectacular fashion at Mosport DDT in Ontario Canada.

Now run a Stage III Bully Clutch in my 10th AE and a Spec in my 1989.

[jkstill]

I've been running an ACT 6 puck ceramic clutch for a few years.
Last year I had to replace it because the first one had worn out.

My FD doesn't make huge power, about 350 RWHP, but as it is an autox car it gets driven pretty aggressively.

The 6 puck is kind of hard to drive until you get used to it, but once you do, it is a piece of cake.

[Red Baron]

I'm an ACT guy, has done well for my 400RWHP car.

[ledgebmx]

I love my ACT as well.

Sorry to hear about your Centerforce but thanks for sharing! Thankfully no one was hurt.

[2gslse]

The centerforce worked well with small power but once the power went up it showed why the pedal effort was so low not enough clamping force. The ACT is in and the car has been dyno'd at 410 Hp to the wheels and now the tires are slipping while it was strapped down.

[TitaniumTT]

Slipping 90% of the way through 3rd on the dyno..... you steer this car ith your foot :smilielol5: