It looked so simple at first!

[GySgtFrank]

This is a mostly after the fact build thread on the engine swap for those that are interested. I didn't want to clutter up the forum with something until I knew I could actually complete it. This is the first thread like this I've ever tried to post, so please bear with me. My pics aren't as complete as others since I didn't take them in progress and the car is FINALLY together. I'm just trying to show what I've been up to as a couple of people have asked for.

I'll being updating more regularly as I do the suspension and other work.

This is rather lengthy, since it took most of a year to get to this point (I'm not the fastest worker nor the brightest flower in the pot), and it's all coming in one big lump. I'll have to break it up into separate posts as the Forum can only accept 5 pics at a time. And no, it's nowhere near as pretty as a lot of the projects I'm seeing on here.

So here goes..

I was looking for a small second car to get around in that would hopefully get better mileage than my pickup. I was looking on line when I found this 79SA for sale in Oklahoma by Apex Auto Parts. I remembered how much fun my 75 REPU was that I had during the late 70s- early 80s. I decided then and there I had to get another rotary.

They had bought it from a local kid, who drove it until it died. It didn't look like he'd caused too much damage, so I investigated. Supposedly it had been garaged for ten years before they bought it. They were planning to use it as a shop project. When money got tight they decided to sell it instead. This seems to happen to all of us at some time. The car was completely stock. The only modifications were a lame equalizer and hacked radio wires. The front and rear valance panels had been modified ala off-road driving (bent all to h***). The rear rotor had no compression, but it did run, sort of. The good part was that the interior was complete and in really nice shape. The body had only some surface rust, normal usage dings, and a little hail damage (this was from Oklahoma after all). I can live with fixing dents, but rust is a bugger to fix, (expensive too).

Sooo... after a quick trip down to Oklahoma City, and more money than I should have spent of course, it was mine. Here's the pics of when I bought it.
11723 11724 11725 11726 11727

[GySgtFrank]

here are some more pics.
11728 11729 11730 11731 11732

[GySgtFrank]

I looked on the forums to see what options I had for fixing the engine and exactly what I had let myself in for.

I've rebuilt quite a few different vehicles over the years, but never messed with a rotary. My old REPU was dead reliable, so I never had to tear into it. I pulled the 12A and tore it down. The rear housing was scored and needed replacement. After searching for a while I found that it is becoming quite hard to find decent 12A housings and parts (at least anything I'd want to use). The 13B FC parts are still relatively plentiful so I looked into going that route. After all, how hard can it be to replace a 12A with a 13B right? Shows how much I know!

Well I located a rusty rear-ended 87 GXL from Dukes770, on the other forum, in Olathe, Ks. He needed some of the body and interior parts for his TII. He didn't need the NA drivetrain. This sounded good to me and a good running NA 13B would have about half again as much power as the stock 12A did. So, more money and a trip to KC, and I now had a running, stripped out FC sitting in the yard. Sorry no Pics, you wouldn't want to have seen it anyway, as it was pretty ugly.

I started stripping down the 87 and decided to keep the EFI for the better economy. I needed to get my feet wet with computer controls anyway. I've mostly only messed with carbureted setups. I've been pretty impressed with what some of you guys have been doing with the programmable engine computers. Well one thing led to another...

I swapped the complete FC wiring harness, engine, transmission, fuel tank, and radiator. Yeah, I'm a glutton for punishment. I decided to keep the stock computer for now. I had it, and a standalone is out of my price range at this time.

Time I have, money's a little harder to come by. Later I'll get a good computer and commence playing.

I also decided to do a custom dual exhaust, since I don't really care for the look of the big single exhaust out the back. From reading up on performance mods here, most people say that a free flowing exhaust is one of the most important mods you can make on a rotary. So I ended spending a lot of time and money on this part of the build. I figured it was a good starting place. If I go forced induction later I'm going to need all the exhaust capacity I can get.

Well..., I bought an FB 13B cover and pan from Fong, on the other site, and fitted the engine and transmission to the SA. Everything went in without too much hassle. The 79 driveshaft even fit. I kept the shifter in the FC position as I'm short and the SA position was too far forward for me. Needless to say I had to modify the trans tunnel. Cut it out of the 87 and weld into the 79. I'm not the world's greatest welder. It all stuck good and I tried to always weld both sides just in case. I have a variable feed MIG welder. It varies the feed speed to whatever it feels like, which makes pretty welds rather difficult. I used more wire on my MIG than really necessary but I didn't want parts falling off going down the road, that's always embarassing.

Finished shifter position:

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6046/7021807631_24537fc206_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021807631/)
Build13 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021807631/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[GySgtFrank]

Could someone please tell me how to post these pictures to make them appear in the larger size, like the other build threads. Like I said, I'm new to this and have very little clue how to work the Forum. It's doesn't seem to be addressed anywhere I could find it. I resized the photos to be within the stated parameters within the manage attachments portion, as suggested by Duffman692002. But they're still showing up small on the preview. I don't want to inconvenience anyone by having to constantly click on the pictures just to be able to see them.

[djmtsu]

Copy the image location, then paste it here like this:

your picture link

If the image is hosted at rx7club, it won't work. You need to use something like photobucket, or I use Google Picasa.

[Nismo]

FC Gauges? Looks good!

[GySgtFrank]

Thanks, I have a lot better pictures if I can ever figure out how to get them to link here.

Well, I took your advice djmtsu and loaded my pictures to photobucket. I tried to attach the IMG link here and all I get is an invalid image message. Thumbnails work from there just fine, but not the IMG links. Any ideas?, am I doing something wrong?

[GySgtFrank]

Cont'd with the build thread.

I'm glad I'm not as inept with tools as I am with posting.

Next problem was the radiator and oil cooler. I wanted to keep the stock clutch fan and fan shroud. I wanted it to look almost stock but it wasn't gonna work in the space I had. So, cut the front radiator support from the 87, fit and weld into the 79. I remounted the oil cooler where most people put an intercooler. It should have good airflow down there. I had to build a custom airdam for it of course, but mine was trashed anyway (even if it would have fit). I also had to lower the front lip on the belly pan. Cut, Fit, weld, hack, slash, blood flying, oops getting carried away.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7237/7021806531_d65cf38ebb_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021806531/)
Build01 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021806531/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7250/6875704612_8d4f4e4139_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875704612/)
Build05 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875704612/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6111/6875705746_16ef733f95_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875705746/)
Build06 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875705746/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[GySgtFrank]

Intake was the next problem. No matter how I looked at it, the stock filter was not going to fit. The 79 headlight door motors are right in the way, and I didn't want to open up that can of worms trying to reengineer that.

So, break out the welder, plasma cutter, and cut-off wheel. I opened the lower well beside the passenger side headlight motor, modified the airbox, and mounted the stock filter underneath, in all that nice open space in the front nose section. Yes the stock airbox went under there, but it took a lot of modifications to do it. It's protected from road crud by the passenger side lower sheetmetal. We now have a cold air intake. The filter is going to be a bit more of a pain to change than before though. I have to remove the lower panel and the fabricated (now removable) piece of the fenderwell to get at it. I just couldn't waste that new K&N air filter though. (What we won't do in the name of beauty.)

I then fabricated a box from sheet steel to connect the filter airbox to the MAF and used the stock plumbing to connect the two.

Trying to make it look like Mazda might have done it if the EFI had been available in 79. I think I came pretty close. Engine bay is rather cluttered right now, but will clean it up a little when I get around to paint.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7212/6875698852_c73f1d3c10_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875698852/)
Build03 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875698852/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[GySgtFrank]

I'm breaking this down into manageable bits. Sorry Mods if this isn't the way it should be done.

I then remounted all the peripherals to the 79 chassis.

A/C was next, and noo I'm not driving around in a Kansas summer without A/C. I used the 87 condensor in front of the radiator in the same position as it was on the 87. Moved the accumulator over by the battery so I could actually see the sight window and had new lines made, (mine were shot).

Then I routed them on the drivers side to the 79 compressor. No P/S, so I kept the 79 A/C mount. Hooked it all up and it fits, I don't know if it works yet, as I need to get a new compressor, found out my compressor is seized :cuss: and then I need to recharge the system.

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6230/6875704314_7800efdd48_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875704314/)
Build04 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875704314/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[GySgtFrank]

Now for wiring the harness.

Lots of time here, I was dreaming SA and FC wiring diagrams in my sleep for a while there. I had to figure out where to run everything in very limited space and make room for the extra relays and stuff needed. I also found that I was missing a lot of the little parts and the dash harness. I bought most everything I needed from BrettLinton7. He was a lifesaver. He had plenty of patience to answer lots of stupid questions.

I had to modify some of the wiring as the 79 ignition switch works differently than the 87 switch. (IGN2 is interrupted on start in the 87 and isn't on the 79). Also some of the accessories were positive actuated on the 79 and negative actuated on the 87. A few relays and it works.

I kept the 79 headlight and turn signal switches as well as the heater A/C controls, and console switches (Will use the antenna switch for a hatch release when I get around to that). Much better than the electronic stuff. I did keep the idiot light panel and the gauge cluster though. This was easier than rewiring the gauges, it also had 2 more gauges and the higher speedometer. As if I'm going to make it to 140 mph, Hah!

I had to modify the instrument bezel and make new dash mounts to mate the two, but it looks pretty much stock if you don't know what it's supposed to look like. I liked the white gauge numbers on the 79 better, but you can't have everything. Lots more time fiddling to get everything hooked up and working. Installed a clutch safety bypass switch (where the choke was at). Now I can turn the stupid thing on and off. The wiring is done. The center console still needs to be finished, but I did clean it up a little bit until I get around to doing it. I extended the wires and remounted the FC cruise control switch ro the center ashtray area for the 79. I don't smoke anyway. Eventually I plan to put in switches and hook up power windows and mirrors in the FC panel.

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6233/7021806937_67fb8159a9_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021806937/)
Build14 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021806937/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7196/6875702936_a0fa23c99a_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875702936/)
Build15 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875702936/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7244/7021804281_605528e844_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021804281/)
Build16 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021804281/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[GySgtFrank]

Next major hurdle was fuel.

I needed the EFI pump w/sump in the 87 tank. After lots of head scratching I decided to swap in the entire 87 tank and lines. I wanted the pump and setup that matched the engine and induction I was using, in order to head off those particular headaches. This also allowed me to free up the room on the driver's side for a muffler.

Of course, Mazda had to go and change the fuel filler from the driver's side to the passenger's side between the two generations. Being a masochist, I therefore had to center mount a new fuel fill opening behind the license plate. I used a leftover hinged plate holder I had from a 68 AMC AMX project.

After getting new pipe bent to connect to the passenger side, figuring out which rubber connectors would work, and some cutting/fitting, Voila'.

The 87 fuel tank is taller, so the spare tire well had to come out. Here we go again, cut out the well, cut the rear floor from the 87, trim to fit, put in bolts, weld down the nuts, and install seals. We have a new floor with a fuel pump access hole. Not the prettiest thing in the world but it's hidden under the carpet and more importantly, it works, and I have a larger tank to boot.

I had to figure out a way to bolt down my spare in the back hatch area as I no longer had room for it. Cut the center bolt down section from the original well and bolt onto the rear hatch floor, and fabricate a holder so I can run a center bolt through the wheel. The spare needed to be bolted down so I don't end up wearing it around my neck during a panic stop. Besides, it kind of reminds me of the old Ferraris with it mounted visible under the glass this way.:biggthumpup:

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6119/6875703372_d0310a3e4b_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875703372/)
Build12 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875703372/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6234/7021807977_8c8c8562be_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021807977/)
Build10 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021807977/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6054/6875708326_17327337fa_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875708326/)
Build11 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875708326/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[GySgtFrank]

Back to exhaust.

Now that I had room for a second muffler (not much, but enough). I started looking at mufflers and routing. I then realized what they meant about putting 10 lbs. into the proverbial 5 lb. bag.

I went with the Spin Tech XL plus mufflers in the back (no packing), they went in with lots of fussing for clearance and the rear mounts got interesting for a while. I probably should have used the smaller 8" wide mufflers instead of the 10" wide ones. But I'm one sick puppy, remember? I used the Stainless Works smooth tubes (stainless packing) in the middle in a 32" length and had them put header flanges on both ends, so I can actually get my transmission out again.

The driver's side didn't really have enough clearance in the center of the floor tub so.., more cutting, more welding, and generous application of the BFH. I now had room.

Next problem was that blankedy, blank Watts link right in the way! From reading up in the posts I found it didn't work all that well anyway. So, contact G-Force Engineering for a panhard bar, more welding, no cutting this time thank God, and I had just enough room for a snake to squeeze through there.

I puchased the Racing Beat FC six port road race header, which went right on with no hassles at all. Now that was nice for a change.

I then had the exhaust shop connect the sections together, I do believe they thought I had lost a few marbles. They didn't have room for an H-pipe with the road road race header flange having the two exit pipes side by side within inches of each other. They ran the two pipes back and connected them to the center mufflers. I didn't want to run without a collector of some sort, there wasn't enough room from the header to the center mufflers for a traditional collector, so I cut the center portions from the two pipes at closest approach and joined them into a homemade collector. Again, not especially pretty, but it works.

The collector changed the exhaust tone to a deeper, smoother sound, a plus in my book, and hopefully helps performance. Although the exhaust came out a little louder than I was really trying for.

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6037/7021808565_bde1db709e_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021808565/)
Build09 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021808565/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7235/7021804829_2770191468_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021804829/)
Build07 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021804829/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7184/7021808263_a29c33cfe5_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021808263/)
Build08 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021808263/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[GySgtFrank]

I replaced the brake master cylinder with the 87 unit, which necessitated making some new lines as the outlets are a little different and the 79 uses coarse thread instead of everyone else's fine thread. My master cylinder was shot, and I plan to put the 87 front subframe and braking system under it eventually anyway, so it seemed like a good idea at the time.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7085/7021834351_867fb8e431_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021834351/)
Build02 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021834351/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Got everything hooked up (why won't it start? Oh, fuel lines are backward, Duh!) and finally took it for a drive.

Everything looks to be working good. Except that I needed to re-bleed the brakes again. The shift up light comes on at the strangest times though. When is it supposed to come on in the FC?

My horn relay doesn't seem to be working and the flash to pass function (probably my strange idea of wiring caused this) is a bit disconcerting when it bounces my headlight doors up every time I accidently bump the turn signal stalk. But, I've got to have something to do I guess.

Overall I'm pretty happy with how it turned out so far. Quite a bit of power, it'll break the 13s loose into second pretty easily (Really guys, I'm trying to take it easy for the first couple hundred miles to break it back in.) . It's not a monster show machine like some I've seen on here, but that wasn't what I was trying for.

Here's some pics as it sits now.

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6222/7021809521_aa3e88e412_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021809521/)
Build17 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021809521/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7258/7021801139_2980a8d332_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021801139/)
Build18 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021801139/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6049/6875707598_da05e21aef_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875707598/)
Build19 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/6875707598/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7129/7021805511_a3f70a92a1_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021805511/)
Build20 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021805511/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[GySgtFrank]

As usual more problems keep cropping up.

My radiator is leaking around the plastic tanks. It looks like the next project will be to pull the radiator back out and replace it with a Koyo aluminum unit.

I'm currently working on the FC front subframe. So far, all I've got done is to depower the power steering rack according to TitaniumTT's post and start cleaning.

I'm going to see if I can swap in the LSD from the 87 differential and try to swap over to the big axles or possibly try to locate a complete SE rear axle and get new shafts with the 5X4.5 bolt pattern. I'm not sure exactly what's involved in this yet. I'll then fabricate and weld on some mounts to accept the 87 rear discs. More cutting, grinding, welding, Oh well..

I'll post more as I get to it, hopefully I didn't bore anyone to tears. It's been a low budget effort (except for the exhaust, which cost way too much in my estimation, about half of the build cost, stainless steel mufflers are EXPENSIVE).

I've got just under 4000 dollars into the total project so far (including purchasing the car). It's more than the car's really worth, but you can spend a lot more trying to keep yourself amused. I'm learning a lot in the process and just having fun. It'll be even more fun when I can get to some of the events and meet some of you in person. Thanks for all the help guys.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7021810283_b2526e4aaf_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021810283/)
Build21 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7021810283/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr]

[Duffman692002]

She looks great! I like what you've done with the exhaust and she looks very unassuming from the outside, great job man.

[GySgtFrank]

Thanks. I'm trying to keep it simple. :smilielol5: At least the outside and interior appearance anyhow.

[infernosg]

Wow, incredible work! I'd swap my FC setup over to an SA/FB in a heartbeat if I had the opportunity.

How was depowering the steering rack? I need to do this myself but with most of the pictures missing from TTT's thread I'm a little nervous to tackle it. Did you TIG up the "quill" like he did as well?

[GySgtFrank]

Thank you. I followed along TTTs post and it was pretty straightforward. The biggest problem I had was with the caps being corroded on TIGHT, and getting the stake to come loose on the pinion plug. I think Godzilla went to Hiroshima and was working on RX7s the day they staked that plug in. I used my MIG to weld the quill up like TTT did. I did cut off the inlets and weld up the holes in the body, but I used bolts/pinch nuts and flat nylon washers to seal the holes in the aluminum housing.

[GySgtFrank]

I've got the FC front subframe pulled apart. Dirty and nasty, starting cleanup. The front rack is done, nothing else. I did put the extra front and rear rotors in the pic that I got from BrettLinton7. I need to take a lot of the parts down to be sandblasted (surface rust).

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7218/7024432375_e83d46d187_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7024432375/)
Build22 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7024432375/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[beefhole]

This is a really, really great build. :) Looks to be well worth all the effort in the end. hell it looks it now. I really like all the electronics swapping you've done, too.

[GySgtFrank]

Thanks beefhole. It's one of those projects that kind of got away from me. I was going to only put in the 13B and run a carburetor, but I had all the EFI stuff and figured Why Not?

I needed some experience with stuff outside of the stone age anyway. It got a lot more involved than I thought at first. I tried to get a complete stock FC setup in there so everything matches. This gives me a good baseline for future improvements (I hope).

Also, using as many stock parts as possible, also makes finding parts a lot easier when (not if) something breaks. I plan to drive this a lot and make some long road trips. I only used custom parts when I absolutely had to.

The known baseline is necessary, as I've found that trying to make too many changes at once will really screw the pooch on figuring out what you did wrong.

[BrettLinton7]

Wow, I didn't realize how much modification you were doing when we spoke. The car looks great, I love how you have the radiator/shroud and everything from the FC swapped over. Looks like the car came that way :) Those gauges look pretty good, too. Congrats on finishing it!

[GySgtFrank]

Thank you for the kind words.

Finished? Well, it's more like a starting point, but at least it's running again. I want to start upgrading all of the supporting hardware, i.e. drivetrain, suspension, chassis, etc., as money allows.

When everything else is done I'd like to upgrade to a MoTec ECU, just to make TTT happy and start playing with mapping.

At that point I can start playing with the engine. I want to avoid any more long downtimes on this project if I can, the car's just too much fun to drive to let it sit again.

:banghead: Dang. Just found out the FC Brake master cylinder is going too. I also need to put in a couple more exhaust supports at the mufflers as they're moving a little too much. Always have a few bugs to work out after mods it seems.

[GySgtFrank]

Been trying to figure out my headlight motor problem. They go up and down on their own now and then. Sometimes the passenger side, sometimes the drivers, sometimes both. Even more annoying is when both the up and down circuits are powered and they keep cycling up and down continuously going down the road. Just call me Winky.:icon_no2: I think the problem is in my combination switch. It fell apart on me when I was trying to trace wires. I thought I had it back together right, but it has been giving me problems with a few different bugs.

I did get the extra muffler mounts welded in. The muffler shop said I didn't need them, but too much vibration in that tight of a space. The mufflers need to be supported on both ends.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7200/7043693757_8b6f2842f7_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7043693757/)
Build23. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7043693757/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Still working on the front subframe. Finally got the rusted together struts apart. I had to run a heavy bead with the MIG on the old strut shaft to get something to hold them while I fought the top bolt off (they just kept spinning). I think it needed new struts anyway.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7193/7043696285_995f623b30_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7043696285/)
Build24 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/7043696285/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

The good is that I have a new brake master cylinder on the way from MazdaTrix, inside door latch cups from Atkins, and a used combination switch from Frodogray on Ebay. We'll see if these help.

It looks like the guys in KC, will?, be having a get together on the 15th and I want to make it over there for that. It should be a good shakedown cruise.

[djmtsu]

Looking good man. Big project, but the results are excellent.

Oh, and PS- I have a '79 A/C compressor, perfect working order with 134A fittings already on it.

Just putting that out there...

[GySgtFrank]

Thanks. It wasn't meant to be a big project. Like the title says.. I may be giving you a call about that compressor in a month or two. I was going to stay with the R-12 but R-134a might work. I haven't really researched it yet, too much other stuff to do first. It'll probably become a much higher priority here pretty soon though.

[GySgtFrank]

I found the brake problem. The rear wheel cylinders were shot, that'll happen when the car sits 10-20 years. Tried to make a run to Kansas City to deliver some parts and make a meet the KC guys were having. Burned up a relay about 100 miles out, bypassed it and it was fine. Again, my overly complicated wiring scheme bites me in the a@@. Then about 150 miles out the car starts to sputter and died on the side of the interstate. Do a bunch of checks, no fuel to the filter. I assume the fuel pump went as the fuel gauge was above empty and called some local friends to come help. Put gas in it and it fired right up. :blush5: I evidently bumped the needle putting in the panel and didn't notice it. Needless to say I didn't make KC in time for the meet. Oh well, this is why I was making the run in the first place. Need to make sure all the problems are worked out before I get too far away.

[MazdaLand]

:biggthumpup: Wow! I gotta say...GREAT build up and good job!

[GySgtFrank]

Quick update. About 1500 miles on it it and no more problems yet other than oil lines leaking at the cooler. I didn't put new crush washers in when I took them loose. I found out why it's a good idea. Running a little rough, need to pull the injectors, send them off and have them cleaned. Going to make the Ozarks run with 417Rotary club on 7 July if I have to tow it there this time.

[GySgtFrank]

OK, been a while on updates as there wasn't a whole lot to report. Made the Ozarks run, only problem was a blown front tire. Have a little over 4000 miles on it with no significant problems. About done working the extra job for the year, bought axles, rear end and assorted parts to do the five lug/LSD swap with the the big bearing rear end and rear suspension revisions, as well as desperately needed bigger brakes. More updates and pics soon I hope.

[GySgtFrank]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8069/8211686517_8a38220268_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8211686517/)
SE diff (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8211686517/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Picked up an 85 GSL SE rear diff. Had a little problem with the first diff I picked up. It was out of an 85 gsl. It would have worked fine, but found that someone had swapped an 83 gsl rear into it at sometime so the rear did not have the big bearings. Took it back to Kyle at Rotary Doctor in Neosho, Mo. and he gave me the GSL SE rear in it's place. Good guy, this one had us both scratching our heads for a while, shit happens. Trial fitting bigger rear discs while I'm waiting on parts to arrive. Want to swap brakes over from the 95 SVT Cobra suspension I have. Rear 11.5" discs won't be too bad, although they look to be only marginally better then the FC rears (Cobra on left, FC on right), but the front 13" discs will take a little thinking on. We'll see. :squint:

[GySgtFrank]

Modifying Spring mounts to accept the Mustang springs. I know, I'm insane. ;)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8224/8253033367_22ef4cdf46_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8253033367/)
axle1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8253033367/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8075/8254111608_24cef1a973_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8254111608/)
axle2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8254111608/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8363/8253042239_2c7109495e_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8253042239/)
axle&spring (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8253042239/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

The beauty of the Mustang springs is that they come in the spring rates I was shooting for anyway. Oh! and I already have them, broke MoFos unite! :001_302:

[GySgtFrank]

For those still interested and in keeping with my penchant for doing things the hard way. (Don't try this at home kids, I'm a Prof-*er*-masochist). Getting the spring buckets and adjusters in car. Had to raise the spring mounting point ala FC & FD. Final placement on the spring perch is about 4 inches higher than original. Need to be able to lower it without going to ridiculously stiff springs. Used adjusters so I can alter ride height and weight jack for suspension tuning. Guess what? 5" diameter springs don't quite fit between the frame rail and wheel opening, such a surprise :uhh:. Now know why Mazda used those oddball diameter springs. Had to notch the frame rails as I didn't want to take up any valuable tire space in the wheel wells.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8223/8278990798_4b930382e7_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8278990798/)
Spring opening (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8278990798/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8208/8277935289_dbabf6bb89_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8277935289/)
spring opening 4 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8277935289/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8501/8278996452_3d6b8c90e7_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8278996452/)
spring opening 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8278996452/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8062/8278988836_40686ba03e_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8278988836/)
spring perch w_adjuster (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8278988836/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8215/8277940953_3ddaf2b55b_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8277940953/)
spring on perch - new (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8277940953/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Just have to get it closed up and the final welds done, then onto the other side. :07: Back to work...

[TitaniumTT]

I've got just under 4000 dollars into the total project so far (including purchasing the car). It's more than the car's really worth, but you can spend a lot more trying to keep yourself amused. I'm learning a lot in the process and just having fun. It'll be even more fun when I can get to some of the events and meet some of you in person. Thanks for all the help guys.

:party:

Thanks beefhole. It's one of those projects that kind of got away from me. I was going to only put in the 13B and run a carburetor, but I had all the EFI stuff and figured Why Not?

A project that got otu of hand? Say it isn't so!!!!! That NEVER happens....

At that point I can start playing with the engine. I want to avoid any more long downtimes on this project if I can, the car's just too much fun to drive to let it sit again.

Don't you guys have winters? That's when I try to keep all my playing to..... wintertime when I can't/don't want to drive the cars anyway.... Gotta finish my Jeeps and get the 8 off the rd in the next week or so

I found the brake problem. The rear wheel cylinders were shot, that'll happen when the car sits 10-20 years. Tried to make a run to Kansas City to deliver some parts and make a meet the KC guys were having. Burned up a relay about 100 miles out, bypassed it and it was fine. Again, my overly complicated wiring scheme bites me in the a@@. Then about 150 miles out the car starts to sputter and died on the side of the interstate. Do a bunch of checks, no fuel to the filter. I assume the fuel pump went as the fuel gauge was above empty and called some local friends to come help. Put gas in it and it fired right up. :blush5: I evidently bumped the needle putting in the panel and didn't notice it. Needless to say I didn't make KC in time for the meet. Oh well, this is why I was making the run in the first place. Need to make sure all the problems are worked out before I get too far away.

Shakedowns! Gotta love 'em.... the wierdest shit pops up on them...

but the front 13" discs will take a little thinking on. We'll see. :squint:

Yeah.... it's know as 17" rims :lol:

For those still interested and in keeping with my penchant for doing things the hard way. (Don't try this at home kids, I'm a Prof-*er*-masochist). Getting the spring buckets and adjusters in car. Had to raise the spring mounting point ala FC & FD. Final placement on the spring perch is about 4 inches higher than original. Need to be able to lower it without going to ridiculously stiff springs. Used adjusters so I can alter ride height and weight jack for suspension tuning. Guess what? 5" diameter springs don't quite fit between the frame rail and wheel opening, such a surprise :uhh:. Now know why Mazda used those oddball diameter springs. Had to notch the frame rails as I didn't want to take up any valuable tire space in the wheel wells.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8223/8278990798_4b930382e7_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8278990798/)
Spring opening (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8278990798/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8208/8277935289_dbabf6bb89_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8277935289/)
spring opening 4 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8277935289/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8501/8278996452_3d6b8c90e7_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8278996452/)
spring opening 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8278996452/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8062/8278988836_40686ba03e_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8278988836/)
spring perch w_adjuster (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8278988836/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8215/8277940953_3ddaf2b55b_m.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8277940953/)
spring on perch - new (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8277940953/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Just have to get it closed up and the final welds done, then onto the other side. :07: Back to work...

That's really fucking cool and impressive at the same time.... I approve of that way of doing things

[GySgtFrank]

A project that got otu of hand? Say it isn't so!!!!! That NEVER happens....

Always it seems. :blush5:

Don't you guys have winters? That's when I try to keep all my playing to..... wintertime when I can't/don't want to drive the cars anyway.... Gotta finish my Jeeps and get the 8 off the rd in the next week or so

We have winters here, but the snow seldom sticks around for very long. Get more time on the road with the 7 than I would up north. It is cold as SH** out in the shop trying to get work done though.

Yeah.... it's know as 17" rims :lol:

Yeah, I know, but it's hard to find a short enough tire in 17" to allow suspension articulation up front that is still wide enough to do any good. I'll find a work around though. :suspect:

I'll probably end up with 215/40's, have to see when I get the suspension fitted.

That's really fucking cool and impressive at the same time.... I approve of that way of doing things

Thanks Brian. Quite a bit more to go on rear suspension, different lowers, 3 link, fit and plumb brakes etc. Will be ready for DGRR if I have to weld the axle to the frame though. :biggrinjester:

addendum: Hopefully I'll have a chance of keeping your FC from hell within sight on the dragon, since my lack of power is not as much of a handicap there.

[GySgtFrank]

After looking at Phil's thread this is almost shameful, but it's what I've got.

Well life's been throwing me a few curves lately, but still making progress. I got my set of wheels I plan on using and did a trial fit.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8495/8344689230_df38871140_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8344689230/)
SSRwheels (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8344689230/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Rears are 275/40R17, yes I'm going with 17s. Not enough room in the wheel wells (width) and my measurement was a little off for lowering. Again, such a surprise. Have to extend the rear buckets upward another 2-3 inches and un-spotweld my wheel wells moving them in about 1.5 - 2 inches. Such fun. Luckily I waited on final welding until the trial fit, so not as big of a problem as it could have been. Rear brake adapter plates made and fitted, good clearance all around with the SSRs. Also changing over to a 3 link setup in the rear to eliminate those pesky upper control arms, snap oversteer is such a drag, and free up the room for MOAR TIRE. Will update when I get the rear suspension buttoned up. :suspect:

[WE3RX7]

275s on 17s with an NA 13B?

So we're going to have 2gslse's FB at DGRR fail to get out of the parking lot due to the inability of 205s to control his monster causing blinding tire smoke and then you... you sir are going to stall as the level of friction from those meats far exceed the torque produced on that NA 13B :)


Ok, all jokiing aside, looks good. Should be a pretty sweet year to be an SA/FB fan at DGRR if all these cars make it. Only 3 months left, get cracking!

[GySgtFrank]

275s on 17s with an NA 13B?

So we're going to have 2gslse's FB at DGRR fail to get out of the parking lot due to the inability of 205s to control his monster causing blinding tire smoke and then you... you sir are going to stall as the level of friction from those meats far exceed the torque produced on that NA 13B :)


Ok, all jokiing aside, looks good. Should be a pretty sweet year to be an SA/FB fan at DGRR if all these cars make it. Only 3 months left, get cracking!

:rofl: Well it looks like the only way to keep up with Brian is to outbrake him, so we need more tire and brake. The chassis was only designed for 100hp so it has a few shortcomings to be addressed before I pull a 2gslse. :)

[GySgtFrank]

A little more work done. As usual things are getting more complicated than I at first envisioned. :lol: Fitted the tires and wasn't happy with the inside clearance. Tried spacers, but I wanted the tires tucked in more, sooo, mini-tub time.

I got the third link in so I could do away with the upper control arms.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8365/8371878386_ed0c841865_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8371878386/)
third link1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8371878386/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8046/8371877276_72fcb9076b_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8371877276/)
third link2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8371877276/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Had to cut my fancy dancy spring buckets (they needed to be higher anyway, measurements never come out right). Removed the wheel well.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8352/8370801293_b5c64022b9_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8370801293/)
open wheelwell (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8370801293/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Got the inner rear wheel well plate fabbed and fitted, should give me plenty of clearance for off camber articulation.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8194/8371866578_aa5b9cf215_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8371866578/)
Inside clearance (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8371866578/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

The limiting factor now is going to be the spring, but for now I have plenty of space there. Also going to have to move the shock mounting point. No big deal, now where have I heard that before? :o Wheels look good on there though.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8333/8371879462_40c0bfa1a2_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8371879462/)
outside clearance1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8371879462/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8220/8371874942_b8e887b862_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8371874942/)
wheel2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8371874942/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

The things I won't get myself into. :)

[2gslse]

Damn that looks good I wish I knew how and had the place to do that. I will just have to deal with wheelspin city for now.

[GySgtFrank]

Damn that looks good I wish I knew how and had the place to do that. I will just have to deal with wheelspin city for now.

I don't think I'll have to worry about wheelspin with my NA 13B. Wish I had the power that monster of yours puts out. :) someday...

[85turbo12a]

that is a nice project you have there....i so needed to mini-tub mine before i went as far as i did....that is going to look amazing when done with those fats stuffed under it like that....well done(doing) sir

[GySgtFrank]

Thanks 85turbo12a. It's nowhere near the quality of yours or 2gslse's build, but it's been fun. The rear suspension was supposed to be the easy part, but whadda I know? What else am I going to do anyway?

I could have probably gotten away with either a slightly narrower tire or used the spacers, but I'm not sane and wanted FD size tires on the SA, but they have to fit under the sheetmetal. The rear suspension needed revising anyway.

It's the same rear setup as the Fox body Mustang I'd run before, except that Mazda was nice enough to put in the Watts link which Ford neglected totally. The Mustangs had a very nasty tendency to snap oversteer which gets WAY too exciting at speed (angled upper control arms). I had read that the rear behaved about the same on the first gens too. Studied up on suspension design a little and sooo...

DGRR '13: Invasion of the silver 1stGens. :)

[85turbo12a]

yeah im not real keen on pushing the limits with mine...if you keep it at entertaining speeds its pretty stable, but i have no idea what it would do if pushed hard and i really dont want to hurt it...and now with the substantial addition of torque ill have to be nice to it :D

yes having that big meats on there is going to be neat, gonna look sick from the back, also kudos for keeping it under the skin, sometimes the extra work is worth the result.

my car is using the "modified" watts link with the 8.8, basically all stock, with energy bushings and a .75" rear swaybar that i suspect might be a bit much...but we shall see, at some point i foresee a total re-design of the rear workings....i would like to get the car low(er) to the ground again.

it seems like us DIY guys can never have the perfect car...we have to give up one major mod to do another...always leaving a weak link due to funds, abilities or time...

[2gslse]

Thanks 85turbo12a. It's nowhere near the quality of yours or 2gslse's build, but it's been fun. The rear suspension was supposed to be the easy part, but whadda I know? What else am I going to do anyway?

DGRR '13: Invasion of the silver 1stGens. :)

I think your car is a very high quality build and very original, eventually I will need to do some major work to the rear to allow it to hook up and handle well. Just think I will have an egg under my foot on the dragon and you will be able to flat foot it all the way with the traction available. How many silver FB's you think will be there?

[GySgtFrank]

:lol: If we ever got them perfect, we'd probably be so bored we'd have to get a different project anyway. I like riding the edge of traction in corners so ironing out the suspension was a priority for me. Donuts are fun, but not when you run into stuff.

I thought about using my 8.8, but the added unsprung weight was prohibitive. I plan on staying with the rotary so the GSL-SE rear should handle most power levels I'm likely to achieve. I can see where it's an absolute necessity with the power and torque yours will be putting down though. From what I've read the SE rears are fine up to about 350 - 400hp.

The uneven Watts link was less than ideal, but the super short angled upper arms are the big culprit in suspension bind and driveline angle change. Which is why a lot of guys don't run a rear swaybar, the bind already provides enough swaybar effect. After cycling the stock suspension a few times without springs I saw that it had a LOT of bind. :)

[GySgtFrank]

I think your car is a very high quality build and very original, eventually I will need to do some major work to the rear to allow it to hook up and handle well. Just think I will have an egg under my foot on the dragon and you will be able to flat foot it all the way with the traction available.

Thanks, but it's pretty rough. Egg under foot. :smilielol5: Yeah, I can see that. It could be worse, you could still be on the 185/70 13s.

How many silver FB's you think will be there?

:dunno: I know of at least three though, if I can get mine wrapped up in time.

[BrettLinton7]

I really like the work you're putting into the rear end, the chopping and fabbing up on everything is awesome. I like the new wheels too!

[GySgtFrank]

I really like the work you're putting into the rear end, the chopping and fabbing up on everything is awesome. I like the new wheels too!

Thanks Brett, trying to provide your parts with a good home. :)

[GySgtFrank]

FINALLY! Got one side fabricated and welded in. Needs a lot of cleanup before I prime the rest of it and apply seam sealer. Some of my welds got mighty ugly, but they'll do the job. :)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8183/8408585901_94e6aa9338_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8408585901/)
wheel well front (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8408585901/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8331/8408582847_8a879c81a3_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8408582847/)
wheel well rear (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8408582847/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8332/8409678564_215939f13f_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8409678564/)
wheel well inside (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8409678564/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[speedjunkie]

Ugly welds or not, that's awesome Gunny.

[GySgtFrank]

Ugly welds or not, that's awesome Gunny.

Thanks for the vote of confidence. Not up to the par of your FD, but I'm trying. I really have to learn when not to get carried away. ;)

[drift_ratfc]

great build!

[fc nut]

great work. i'd never have the patience or the nerve to go that far with a build. props man.

[speedjunkie]

Thanks for the vote of confidence. Not up to the par of your FD, but I'm trying. I really have to learn when not to get carried away. ;)

I wasn't saying you had ugly welds, I was basically saying I couldn't tell from the pics whether they were ugly or not LOL, but it didn't matter because it's awesome regardless. And either way, they'd be better than anything I welded lol. Didn't realize you knew my car either lol.

[GySgtFrank]

Thanks guys. I've seen pictures of your car speedjunkie and it's very nice. Now if I could just remember where I saw them, I suffer from CRS (Can't Remember Shit)? :lol:

[GySgtFrank]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8446758394_4518ed2956_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8446758394/)
Wheel Well (other side) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8446758394/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Driver's side wheel housing fabricated, welded, and etching primer applied. Ready to bolt back in and weld tomorrow. Did my best to mirror the passenger side.

[GySgtFrank]

OK. I've spent way too much time on this part, but it's done, except for seam seal and undercoating. All fitted, welded, cleaned up, and primed. Have to build the enclosure for the third link in the middle and I'm done inside the car.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8510/8467854852_50b15ab102_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8467854852/)
wheelwell LF (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8467854852/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8524/8466758699_c4a382893e_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8466758699/)
wheelwell LR (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8466758699/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8243/8467852886_7f2237d3db_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8467852886/)
wheelwell RF (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8467852886/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8089/8466756709_f9b95f7c11_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8466756709/)
wheelwell RR (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8466756709/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8094/8466760521_21e053aa59_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8466760521/)
wheelwell inside Left (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8466760521/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr
with spring perch installed.

It's amazing how much longer things take than what you had planned for. :facepalm:

[infernosg]

That's pretty damn awesome. This is giving me bad ideas of a SA/FB with the IRS out of a FC. The thought of my engine/drivetrain in a ligher chassis makes me drool. One project at a time...

[GySgtFrank]

Thought about using the FC IRS, since I have most of one from the parts car behind the shop. I decided against for now. If I ever get to large enough power numbers where the SE rear reaches it's limits, I may have to reconsider. Those power levels would require swapping in a large differential and the straight axles for those would be far too heavy for handling.

[mazpower]

Awesome work!

[GySgtFrank]

Awesome work!

Thanks Glenn, getting there, slow but sure. Looks like the Mustang shocks are going to work out like I thought and should be relatively straightforward. Not always the case. :)

[estevan62274]

Looks great, very well done !!

[JL1RX7]

I has no idea a Marine could make something that good!

Just giving you shit Gunny. Looking good.:icon_tup:

[GySgtFrank]

Looks great, very well done !!

Thanks, hopefully it comes out the way I envisioned it.

I has no idea a Marine could make something that good!

Just giving you shit Gunny. Looking good.:icon_tup:

Youse a dick. I'll get you for that at DGRR. :lol:

[estevan62274]

Ill take a set for my FB :o16:

[GySgtFrank]

Ill take a set for my FB :o16:

Don't let TTT see that comment. He'll simply state that FBs don't have a set. :)

Todays progess. Got my springs back in, a shock mount fabbed/tacked in, and a shock mounted. Then put on a wheel and started checking suspension cycling. No go. Have an interference problem with off camber movement. Going to have to modify the wheel wells some more to move the shocks further inboard, I didn't move them enough. Figures. I'll post a pic or two of it when I get it figured out and fabbed up. :blush:

[speedjunkie]

Still awesome, Gunny. Any idea on completion time?

Thanks guys. I've seen pictures of your car speedjunkie and it's very nice. Now if I could just remember where I saw them, I suffer from CRS (Can't Remember Shit)? :lol:

There have been pics floating around since October when I had some taken while I was home on leave. Hard telling. And thanks!

Oh, I also suffer from CRS lol.

That's pretty damn awesome. This is giving me bad ideas of a SA/FB with the IRS out of a FC. The thought of my engine/drivetrain in a ligher chassis makes me drool. One project at a time...

This is where it starts. Seeing what someone else does on their build...very slippery slope after that.

[GySgtFrank]

Still awesome, Gunny. Any idea on completion time?

Trying really hard to at least have it back up for DGRR. Everything is taking longer than I had planned though. I should have the rear done in a few more weeks I hope. The front suspension is a big question mark at this time, cross my fingers and hope I can make it.

There have been pics floating around since October when I had some taken while I was home on leave. Hard telling. And thanks!

Oh, I also suffer from CRS lol.

I think it was in the Mountain section either here or on 7Club. I keep checking the Montana thread since I moved here from Bozeman a few years ago. Trying to see if anybody is posting from there and checked out the Colorado threads since it's relatively close.

This is where it starts. Seeing what someone else does on their build...very slippery slope after that.

It's all downhill from here. :lol:

[GySgtFrank]

A few more pics from weekend progress, it's a real shocker (sic). Had to notch the wheel well housings and rotate the bottom mounts slightly to angle the shocks inboard.

inside of wheel well
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8365/8482739313_038ac8d35c_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8482739313/)
Spring &Shock (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8482739313/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

interior mount.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8246/8482741015_1d64ddf83d_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8482741015/)
shock mount (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8482741015/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

on ground at full drop, tires hit sheetmetal slightly.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8095/8482746643_0d51d678bb_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8482746643/)
on ground 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8482746643/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

At desired ride height.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8249/8483835638_108a953b1a_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8483835638/)
on ground 4 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8483835638/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Found that the rear axle was not centered from the factory, offset slightly to the driver's side. Planning on replacing the lower arms with Maximum Motorsports arms that use a captured Heim style joint. Adjustment shouldn't be a big deal with my panhard rod once I get rid of the bind.

Don't look at the puddle of oil under the car. Left the driveshaft out and it emptied from my transmission when I lowered the car back down to the ground. :banghead:

[GySgtFrank]

Had a couple of requests for shots from the rear to see what a 275/40 17 looked like when tucked in.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8250/8484208668_e36dc289a3.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8484208668/)
rear (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8484208668/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8109/8483116587_fb8457404e.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8483116587/)
rear view (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8483116587/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Not the best shots, but it's starting to get dark.

[WE3RX7]

Love it man... really...

It's got the dragster stance in the rear now but in a good way :)

[GySgtFrank]

Love it man... really...

It's got the dragster stance in the rear now but in a good way :)

I like the rear sitting level or slightly up. I wasn't really digging the rear lower than the front on the original worn out springs. Right now the rear is actually a little lower than the front. I'll have to see where it sits when the front suspension is done. Good part is I can crank it up if it's low and can bring it down some if need be. If I need it real low, I'll have to find a shorter tire though.

[GySgtFrank]

A couple more requested pics.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8104/8486485256_715931d261_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8486485256/)
orig. to new wheel compare (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8486485256/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8517/8486486966_fd82c5fed3_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8486486966/)
orig. to new wheel compare 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8486486966/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

just a leeetle bigger. :)

[estevan62274]

Awesome work!

She looks bad A$$!!

[GySgtFrank]

Thanks. Getting the Maximum Motorsports lower control arms fitted and welded in now. At least I will be if I quit trying to burn the car down, Stupid sound deadener burns real good when you get it too hot.

[GySgtFrank]

Here's the latest little bit. Firstly I finally got the panhard bar axle mount located, modified, and welded in. I had to narrow the G Force mount a little to accomodate my new shock locations and integrate it with my new inside lower control arm mounting tab. Trying to locate (and hold) the mount in the proper plane for 3 different axes was a pain, got it done though.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8252/8518929807_da11e53047_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8518929807/)
panhard bar axle mount (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8518929807/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Next came the new lower control arms for the axle. I only have the driver's side done for now, starting on the passenger side in AM. Used the Maximum Motorsports extreme duty arms for the Fox body Mustang. They have a captured Heim style joint and should eliminate the bind from the stock rubber bushed arms without being a noise monster like normal Heim joints.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8229/8518928597_8447da95ff_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8518928597/)
lower control arm - front mount (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8518928597/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8234/8518931005_117fed84eb_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8518931005/)
lower control arm - rear mount (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8518931005/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

They don't look like much, but they were a pain in the butt to get them in there at the correct angle. Used the stock outside control arm mounting tab on the body and axle so I didn't get them out of alignment. It also makes it easier to get an identical copy on the other side. The arms are quite a bit wider so I had to fabricate the inside mounting tabs on both ends.

Once I get the other side done, it's on to figuring out how to get the Maximum Motorsport swaybar mounted. I love a challenge. :rofl:

[GySgtFrank]

Had a request for more pics of the body side panhard bar mount.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8526/8528182671_a715bfcc89_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8528182671/)
panhard body mount - inside (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8528182671/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8225/8528184367_3086496a8d_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8528184367/)
panhard body mount - outside (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8528184367/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

It's one of the last of the G-Force Engineering panhard kits that I purchased when he was clearing his stock so he could retire. I installed it when I was doing my engine swap to free up the room for the over the axle dual exhaust. The Mustang bar I have is considerably longer. It could have been made to work, but I already had the G-Force bar. So I modified the G-Force provided axle mount to clear all the craziness at that end and left the body side mount alone. Good thing I picked up a driveline dial protractor, it has come in very handy.

You can see the temporary bar tack welded between the axle and frame in the inside view if you look close. Welded it solid once I had it in the correct stock position. Did this until I get all of my arms and swaybar finalized so that it does not move and mess me up. Then I'll grind out the tack welds, remove the temporary supports, and it should be in the proper position, well cross my fingers and hope anyway.

[RedR1]

What sized front tires are you running? are you going to modify the metal and run wider up front as well, or have sizeably larger rears than the front?

Beasty build. i didn't know it was this in-depth.

[GySgtFrank]

What sized front tires are you running? are you going to modify the metal and run wider up front as well, or have sizeably larger rears than the front?

Beasty build. i didn't know it was this in-depth.

Now you know why I practically live in the shop as much as I can stand it.

The wheels I got came with almost new 235/45 17s on 8 1/2" wheels. I'll be trying to figure out how to use the tires, but I'll most likely have to step down in size to a 235/40 or shorter so I can keep the front low. Have to see when I get to that part.

There will be a lot of modification in the front to go as wide as I can. The K member will be an aftermarket tubular Mustang setup with the SN95 Cobra brakes and rack. Planning on going with an SLA setup to eliminate the struts and free up some room. Sooo... a little more modification will just add to the fun.

When I get to bodywork I need to look at reshaping the front wheel wells so the 17s look right on the first gen. Most 17s look too big in the wheel wells up front (personal opinion). Haven't got much choice if I want to run the 13" front brakes though. Again, will need to look at it when I get to that point.

I'm trying to avoid the wide body modification if I can and still get a decent size tire under there. Gotta do it the hard way. :lol:

[GySgtFrank]

Might as well post this while I'm waiting for the primer to dry.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8105/8543481542_1962f70545_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8543481542/)
third link enclosure (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8543481542/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Have to put reinforcement plates above the lower control arm mounts, then I'm done with fabricating inside the car. I think.

[GySgtFrank]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8380/8555104809_78c1a8d8b9_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8555104809/)
dragster2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8555104809/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8232/8556213846_a31cc28b6a_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8556213846/)
dragster3 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8556213846/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Looks really dumb with the stock wheels up front and the 17s in the rear. :lol: It's sitting a little high in the rear, but not as much as the difference in tire sizes makes it look. Control arms are all in and the floor pan is sealed back up. Waiting oh so patiently for swaybar parts to get here. :toetap:

[JL1RX7]

I would talk smack Gunny, but shit man that looks good. I know you still have the front to do I know it has to feel good to get it rolling!

[GySgtFrank]

I would talk smack Gunny, but shit man that looks good. I know you still have the front to do I know it has to feel good to get it rolling!

Thankee kind sir. Have quite a bit left to do to finish the rear, but the suspension part of it is in. Had to get it moved as the crap was piling up under there pretty bad. I need to get the shop cleaned up before it gets to the point where I can't see the floor anymore.

Not sure whether I want to take it to DGRR like this though, it looks pretty lame with the stock wheels up front. Not too sure how well it would handle either.

[GySgtFrank]

The rear axle is complete and ready to drop back in. Brake lines on axle fabricated, sway bar mounted, reinforcements installed, final welding done, primered and painted. The weather finally warmed up enough to get the undercoating on today, so should be able to reinstall tomorrow when it's dry.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8252/8592595047_1798e6d6a4_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8592595047/)
axle_complete1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8592595047/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8592593593_1c0e1ee1b8_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8592593593/)
axle_complete2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8592593593/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[GySgtFrank]

It's on it's own wheels and moving under it's own power again. :hurray: Test drove it for a couple of miles getting it up to 55. Tracks straight, no rubbing, and nothing broke, so far. Must keep the demon Murphy away.

I have to take it down to have new exhaust pipes run over the axle tomorrow. They were a problem when I lowered it enough to compensate for the tire height. I had to remove all the tabs and bracing I was no longer using and reroute my fuel lines to make enough room to tuck the pipes up higher.

The pictures are of the modified interior, I'll take pictures of the completed suspension once they get it up on the lift tomorrow.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8525/8619724285_71b65eed02_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8619724285/)
modified interior 1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8619724285/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8105/8619723189_143cd73353_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8619723189/)
modified interior 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8619723189/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8528/8619721951_b99a74ea40_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8619721951/)
modified interior 3 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8619721951/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Plan on stitching up some black carpeting to go over the wheel wells and trimming up the plastic a little more, eventually.

[chibikougan]

Whooot!

[RedR1]

Look at this pimp wagon!!! Dude it's come a long way, and looks amazing. I can't wait to see it complete. we'll deffo have to do a proper photo shoot with your car when it's done, even if i have to fly out to KS

[GySgtFrank]

Whooot!

Eventually I'll be bringing it up your direction cheebs. Might have to make a run to Great Falls when I do, so get on the deuce.

Look at this pimp wagon!!! Dude it's come a long way, and looks amazing. I can't wait to see it complete. we'll deffo have to do a proper photo shoot with your car when it's done, even if i have to fly out to KS

The adventure definitely continues. The exhaust shop says they can't run the pipes the way they have to go, mostly I don't think they want to take the time that would be necessary. I'm having them run it part of the way and I'll have to complete the complicated part myself. I knew I should have bought that pipe bender. :(

[GySgtFrank]

Rear suspension .. done, Brakes .. done, Exhaust .. done. Have to get in some road testing and it should be ready to roll. I'll get on the front suspension sometime after DGRR.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8253/8630411850_5a7b4ea308_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8630411850/)
completed rear suspension 1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8630411850/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8110/8629302735_6f50367ae4_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8629302735/)
completed rear suspension 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8629302735/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8542/8629301063_e35cb95d44_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8629301063/)
completed rear suspension 3 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8629301063/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8536/8629297639_534114bf7e_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8629297639/)
completed rear suspension 4 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8629297639/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8123/8630407132_c71b7c5375_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8630407132/)
completed rear suspension 5 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8630407132/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

:)

[GySgtFrank]

Oops! Forgot to post up the photos of the '93 Ford Cobra brake master cylinder install. It's a 1 inch bore (25.4mm) master cylinder.

It worked out extremely well. I only needed to elongate the mounting holes (and lose the top and bottom bolts on the SA booster) to make it fit. I had to use the SA booster as both the FC and Ford boosters would have hit on the clutch master cylinder. I got rid of the stock spacer and the center dropped right into the booster. Adjusted the length of the operating rod a little bit and I was in business.:)

I used the Ford proportioning valve and rear line pressure adjuster that came with the Mustang conversion kit. Replaced all the brake lines with new. The stock SA (drum brakes) emergency brake lines dropped right on the Ford calipers, as if they were made for them. E brake is mucho better than stock.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8242/8632696639_89cae36cb6_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8632696639/)
Cobra brake master cylinder 1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8632696639/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8542/8633802248_f17c6c3b19_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8633802248/)
Cobra brake master cylinder 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8633802248/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8261/8632694303_9768c5a1b3_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8632694303/)
Cobra brake master cylinder 3 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8632694303/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Even though I only have the large discs out back, with the stock SA discs up front, the braking is a VAST improvement. Can't imagine what it's going to be like when I get the 13 inch discs up front.

P.S. Took my previous nemesis corner today, full throttle through first and second. No more going sideways when the tires give up. :hurray:
The things some people won't do for a little entertainment. :suspect:

[infernosg]

How did you adjust the booster push rod to match the MC? Did you just go by feel or "eyeball" it? I'm curious because I'm doing a 929 booster/MC swap into my FC and this is something I'll likely have to do. There's a whole spiel in the FSM about setting the proper push rod length but it requires a number of SST's that no one has access to.

[GySgtFrank]

How did you adjust the booster push rod to match the MC? Did you just go by feel or "eyeball" it? I'm curious because I'm doing a 929 booster/MC swap into my FC and this is something I'll likely have to do. There's a whole spiel in the FSM about setting the proper push rod length but it requires a number of SST's that no one has access to.

Trial and error mostly. I just set the master cylinder plunger cup against the booster rod and kept adjusting the length until the master cylinder sat flush against the booster without any pressure against the plunger and no slop from being too loose. It seems to work fine, I have good brake feel and no drag.

It's a good thing they used a rod that can be screwed in or out for adjustment, someone was thinking when they designed it.

[infernosg]

Trial and error mostly. I just set the master cylinder plunger cup against the booster rod and kept adjusting the length until the master cylinder sat flush against the booster without any pressure against the plunger and no slop from being too loose. It seems to work fine, I have good brake feel and no drag.

It's a good thing they used a rod that can be screwed in or out for adjustment, someone was thinking when they designed it.
That's what I figured. I've convinced myself the booster push rod position changes slightly when vacuum is applied so there would have to be some kind of initial clearance. That's the only way I can justify why the FSM says to check everything while under vacuum. I guess I'll measured the clearance on my stock booster and MC and start with that.

[GySgtFrank]

That's what I figured. I've convinced myself the booster push rod position changes slightly when vacuum is applied so there would have to be some kind of initial clearance. That's the only way I can justify why the FSM says to check everything while under vacuum. I guess I'll measured the clearance on my stock booster and MC and start with that.

I worried about that at first as well. I suppose you could always use a vacuum pump to put the booster under vacuum before fitting, if you really wanted to. I got lazy and just fitted it straight up with no vacuum. I figured I'd give it a try and see if it needed more adjustment after it was running. Doesn't seem to.

[GySgtFrank]

Well sheet. Didn't make DGRR as things came up at the last minute that prevented it. Bummed me out, had been planning for it all year. Good part was that it allowed me to FINALLY get the shop cleaned out and organized. Almost finished with cleaning and then onto the next step.

Still have a few bugs to work out on the rear suspension. Also been measuring and eyeballing how to shoehorn this under the front.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7282/8738390943_b8db815d09_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8738390943/)
front suspension_new (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8738390943/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Well, except the tires, those are from the Mustang widebody project I'm stealing parts from. Plan to run 235/40 17s up front. Those should be enough of a challenge. The 285/30 18s would look pretty cool though, if I didn't have to actually turn. :lol:

[WE3RX7]

Excuses.. excuses... 2GSLSE didn't bring his silver FB either. Next year being the 10th anniversary, would be appropriate to have the most bad-ass cars there. We expect you'll be in attendance..

[GySgtFrank]

Not so sure about bad ass, insane..., not quite right..., needs his head examined... maybe. Planning on it. I NEED some Dragon time.

[GySgtFrank]

Results of my month long sojourn of cleaning and organizing the shop. Still not completely done, but I'm flat out of motivation to do anymore for a while. Have to organize a few more tools, go through a couple of small boxes of fluids, and get the FC front suspension out of the back of the truck and onto a shelf. (at least until I can get them to Chris [RedR1]).

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7288/8749472820_f7a48e3211.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8749472820/)
shop1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8749472820/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8255/8748349213_01cc328504.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8748349213/)
shop2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8748349213/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7285/8749472462_38c41925b0.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8749472462/)
shop3 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8749472462/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8260/8749472220_9a01317d60.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8749472220/)
shop4 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8749472220/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

considering the disaster area I WAS working in, pretty proud of myself.

P.S. for those always saying pics or it didn't happen, I HAVE PICS!

[WE3RX7]

That's actually a nice look shop. Good floors and space... twice the space I have lol.. I'd like to build a 30x40 someday...

[GySgtFrank]

That's actually a nice look shop. Good floors and space... twice the space I have lol.. I'd like to build a 30x40 someday...

it's a 30X30 space. Building all the benches and shelving took up most of the time. Put in the wiring and lighting previously. Plenty of 110 and 220 outlets. I should get off my butt and run piping for my air compressor around the ceiling, with drops and traps, one of these days. More future projects.

[JL1RX7]

Need a roommate? God I would love for that much space. That is bigger than my apartment by far for what is probably half the cost! Looks good Gunny!

[GySgtFrank]

Need a roommate? God I would love for that much space. That is bigger than my apartment by far for what is probably half the cost! Looks good Gunny!

It's the upside of living in Kansas. Roommate would be good, bring beer. :)

[WE3RX7]

Yea - that's the downside of the northern VA area. Land is a premium. Some day we're getting out of this rat race, lol.

Not to turn this into a shop build thread, but... is your compressor in the shop or in it's own outbuilding?

Maybe we all just come to KS and raid the shop space :)

[GySgtFrank]

In the shop. I'm not that fancy.

Yeah, housing prices in Kansas are a LOT cheaper than Va, or much of anywhere else I've seen, which is why I moved here. I got sick of competing in the rat race. That and most folks here are pretty nice people.

[GySgtFrank]

No picture update. Waiting on parts and figure I've already posted plenty of pictures of it torn apart, you can go look at those if you want. ;)

This may get lengthy, go get a drink. I know I need one.

Sharing what didn't work out as planned is probably the most useful part of showing your builds. Most people kind of gloss over the problems, understandable, but it doesn't help others to avoid pitfalls.

Well the 275s still aren't working out as planned. If you use that wide of a tire with the stock axle width you will need about a +50 offset (Mine are +42), even with the shorter GSL axles vice the SE axles. (SE axles would be even worse) This is under the assumption that you want a working suspension and setting it up rock hard is not acceptable.

Alternatively fender flares and cutting of the fenders would be necessary. The problem is where the rear fender curves inward behind the wheel centerline. As the suspension cycles the tire hits in this spot if not tucked in quite a bit. I refuse to go with flares because I'm not very bright.

I haven't given up on the 275s though. The next plan of attack, (I do believe we're on plan U or plan V by now), is to modify the Moser axles. I talked with the guys at Moser about my little problem. Good bunch of guys and very helpful. I decided to send the axles back and have the seat for the bearing machined 1/2 inch further out and shorten the axle the 1/2 inch to compensate. With the discs, I have about an inch of room to play with between the flange and the bearing retaining plate. I'm modifying the brake brackets again to pull the caliper in the 1/2 inch also.

This should pull the wheel in an extra 1/2 inch and allow me to run wheels with a reasonable offset. Wide +50 and over wheels are scarce and pricey. Hopefully it works this time. It looks like it should, but I've said that before. :lol:

Another thing that I've had to rethink is spring seats and bump stops. The springs weren't very well secured and could possibly even fall out if the back of the car launched into the air from doing something stupid. Solution was to use the stock rubber portion of the SA bump stop on the top spring seat. Also weld the steel cone portion of the bump stop (it was removed from the floorpan when I did the upper spring seats) onto the axle spring seat. They both fit perfectly inside the Mustang springs. I'll be screwing a 1" bump stop from a Toyota on top of the cone portion when I get them.

This accomplishes two things. It keeps me from being severely embarrassed by having my springs fall out and provides a bump stop that will move as I adjust the suspension.

Also had to cut the over the axle portion of the driver's exhaust pipe off and redo it again #$%^&. I just HAD to have true duals :banghead:. I was still having interference problems with the axle when it came up to the top of axle movement. I do believe I got it this time. The bracing for the G-Force panhard bar makes pipe routing a real pain in the a** and you can't get a normal muffler shop to do the work.

The pipe on both sides has to follow the floor pan pretty closely or the axle will hit. (Not much room left in there on a 1stgen when the axle is at the top of it's travel.) This requires removal of all the extraneous Watts link mounts and other BS in the way. Also had to move the brake line junction over about 6 inches and redo the brake lines as it was too close to the exhaust as well.

Currently putting in the exhaust supports, now that I have all the little problems ironed out. I'll eventually redo the over axle portion in mandrel bent SS, but this has to do for now.

Will post pictures when I get some parts back. If I haven't been committed before then. :)

[GySgtFrank]

Since I'm stuck until a few more parts get here, I figured that I may as well post up a few of the pictures I referred to above.

This is the stock bump stop adapted to fit my top spring perch. Fit almost perfectly. :D

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3711/8930031789_9286444064_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8930031789/)
bump stop_upper (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8930031789/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Had to space my caliper brackets another 1/2 inch to accommodate moving the discs back that amount, made up a spacer using 1/2 X 1 inch bar and modified the rear anti-moan brackets.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2847/8930031387_2f13a36c61_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8930031387/)
caliper bracket 1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8930031387/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8274/8930030937_0871c87b98_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8930030937/)
caliper bracket 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8930030937/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Used the stock spring seat from the chassis to form a more secure lower seat on the axle. It will also allow me to put an adjustable 1 inch bump stop on top. This way my bump stop will always follow any spring height adjustments I make. The original seat probably would have worked, but I was a little concerned with the short springs I am using and I needed bump stops anyway.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8124/8930638288_f46bfca3da_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8930638288/)
lower spring seat (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/8930638288/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Also put in exhaust hangers and finished redoing the rear axle brake lines when I moved the T block.

Still waiting on axles, the other bump stops, and some limiting straps with clevis' and mounts. There is no bind left in the suspension so I need something to keep it from dropping too far and breaking the shocks.

[GySgtFrank]

Now that I finally have internet back, time for a few updates. Where was I? Oh yeah.

As I was saying, I had a few problems out back. I got the axles and everything reinstalled, took it out for testing. Found out I have clearance issues with the driveshaft, also with the tires running this close to the fenders even the little bit of side-to-side movement induced by the panhard rod was causing a rubbing problem on the fenders.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7439/9195861022_91af76052e_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9195861022/)
floor pan mod ver. 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9195861022/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Re-modified the floor pan for more clearance at the back. Come to find out the factory did not have the axle centered for a reason. They moved it slightly to the drivers side (approx. 1-2 inches) to accomodate more floorpan indentation on the passenger side. No doubt because some ga-genius in marketing thought that worrying about rear seat hip room for the JDM market was actually important.

Also modified my transmission mount to drop it downward again by about 2 inches. This caused more driveline angle than I want, but I plan to also drop the engine in the chassis enough to bring the driveline angle into spec. (Also lowering the car's center of gravity :)) Basically what I have is a severely lowered suspension, except that the larger tires don't actually bring it any lower. Which is why so much was required to gain suspension travel and clearance above what the factory provides. We'll see if it's enough. I have a little over 3 maybe four inches of upward travel and 6 downward. I can make more room, but then I get back into tire clearance issues.

Fabricated a Watts link to replace the panhard bar. Which keeps the tires centered without that nasty side-to-side movement. I used the factory center pivot, modified it so the arms are in the same movement center and reinforced it. Also used the existing G-Force panhard mount (with a few modifications) to mount the lower of the link arms.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7427/9195860990_91af76052e_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9195860990/)
Watts center link (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9195860990/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Center mount fabbed and welded in.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3784/9193408695_460b577b13_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9193408695/)
Watts link (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9193408695/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Watts link installed.

I also got the suspension travel limiting straps in, which was a bigger pain than they look due to limited space.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5477/9196200440_61c64b9867_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9196200440/)
limiting strap (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9196200440/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

The bump stops also came in and were installed. For some reason the passenger side has an inch more travel than the driver's side when the car was leveled. Not quite sure why as the spring mounts are identical copies of each other on each side. Only thing I can figure is that the passenger side frame rail was an inch higher throwing my measurements off. No picture of this as it's just a 2 inch urethane button on top of the cones. Well a spacer too on the passenger side.

Pictures are of the rear wheel fitment with the half inch taken out of the axles. ( Actually the axles could have easily been modified for another quarter of an inch, but I didn't want to get carried away. :lol:)

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5324/9196199472_bf67211e3b_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9196199472/)
rear wheel fitment 2 ver. 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9196199472/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5534/9193407627_13ff56d2e0_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9193407627/)
rear wheel fitment 1 ver.2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9193407627/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Then moved to the front suspension. Pulled the engine and transmission as well as the front suspension to get to work.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7314/9195860062_cdb7a66513_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9195860062/)
looking forlorn (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9195860062/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

I modified the K member and did the initial fit to find out what I had to do to make this pig work. My poor protractor, tape measure, ruler/square, and calipers are getting one hell of a workout with all the measuring and re-measuring I've had to do.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7458/9195859574_71df064dab_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9195859574/)
K-member 1st fit (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9195859574/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

I went ahead and replaced both front frame rails with 2X2 inch 1/8 inch tubing located above the old rails. Then removed the old rails. This gives me more clearance for the long A arms and strengthens the front frame area, which the rally guys say is a weak spot on these cars. Also cut the steering shaft at the box and removed it as I will be adapting it to the Ford rack and pinion.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2866/9196636706_1ac827b3b1_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9196636706/)
new frame rails 1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9196636706/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7287/9196635998_b50ab89bc4_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9196635998/)
new frame rails 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9196635998/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Currently I have a little more reinforcement to do in the frame boxed area and then refit the K member. It looks like I'll need to move the A arm mounting points in about two and a quarter inches to get the tires tucked in where I want them. Happy Days, having more fun than a barrel of monkeys. :)

[infernosg]

Living up to the thread title I see. Excellent work! I really want to get into serious chassis modification at some point but I need to focus on getting the car running for a bit first.

[Whizbang]

so what made you go with the wonky mustang front suspension over something simplier yet likely as effective, (FC subframe)

[GySgtFrank]

so what made you go with the wonky mustang front suspension over something simplier yet likely as effective, (FC subframe)

Ummm... I had it at hand? Actually the way it's set up by Kenny Brown it should be more effective geometry wise than the FC subframe, as well as lighter, and allow me to use the larger spindles, bearings and brakes from the SN-95 Cobra R. I also plan to convert it to an SLA (Short Long Arm) unequal length arm suspension and this will make that easier. Severe overkill for an RX-7 I know, but I've never been accused of being particularly smart. An alternate suspension solution became necessary after having vendor problems and unable to get parts that I needed.

As to the question of Why? Are you insane? Short answer.. yes. One of the questions always asked by 1st genners is how much tire can I fit under the stock sheet metal?, and what would I have to do to fit really big rubber under there? Granted, the question is usually asked by someone that's new to 1st Gens (still a legit question). The standard pat answer is, You can't.

Challenge accepted.

I have had to cheat a bit in the back with the tubs, but the outer sheet metal is still stock. I may end up losing this personal challenge, but I'll give it a good shot anyhow.

[GySgtFrank]

As to the naysayers not liking 17s on a first gen. I understand, buuut....

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2883/9224548539_3b1e8d4617_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9224548539/)
new brakes (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9224548539/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

They're kind of necessary. Original SA discs on right, new 13" Cobra R discs on left.

[WE3RX7]

What a small caliper for 13" rotors... :)

[GySgtFrank]

What a small caliper for 13" rotors... :)

:smilielol5: It should do the job in a 2300 pound car. Upgrades are easy if needed. Everybody makes go fast parts for Mustangs to satisfy us dumb rednecks. ;)

[GySgtFrank]

Small update. It has been slow going lately, ran out of funds to buy needed parts :eek:, so trying to drag it out a little to keep me occupied. K member has been fitted, modified, refitted, measured, torn down, etc. so many times that I'm unsure what I started with at this point.

I ended up moving the A arm mounting points inward 1.5" on either side narrowing the track to approximately what it was stock. The pictures are the final? positioning where the tires are going to sit. Ride height should be close, but I'll have to see when I get further along.

I have to order the pieces to convert the MacPherson Strut Mustang spindle to accept upper ball joints. Also need to order the adjustable upper A arms and get it all fitted.

At that point I can start looking for coil over shocks for the front and see what kind of trimming on the inside of the wheel wells I'm going to need so the wheels will turn fully lock-to-lock without hitting.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7295/9374916796_aa76f7749c_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9374916796/)
front tire 1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9374916796/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2825/9372141051_8e4d417425_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9372141051/)
front tire 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9372141051/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3799/9372140595_aa69255124_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9372140595/)
front+rear sideview (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9372140595/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

I would like to go to a 245/40 17 on the front. Once I get the upper arms in and back on the ground I'll have to do some more measuring.

[GySgtFrank]

Got the spindle adapters ordered today. (stole the pics from Griggs Racing).

Might have to rob a bank to afford the rest of it though. :(

http://www.griggsracing.com/images/UpperBallJointAdapter.jpg

http://www.griggsracing.com/images/EMUJ2000L.jpg

[chibikougan]

Bling!

[scarsofcarma]

Props to you cool build :) I'm guessing you've owned a mustang or two in your day?

[GySgtFrank]

Props to you cool build :) I'm guessing you've owned a mustang or two in your day?

Just a few. :lol: Boxes of brand new spare parts needed a new home and the RX7 needed suspension and brakes. Match made in heaven, or , maybe someplace considerably lower.

[chibikougan]

Middle Earth?:rofl:

[GySgtFrank]

Middle Earth?:rofl:

When things just refuse to work it's more like the bottom of Satan's outhouse pit.

Oh BTW just for you Chris. Remember how we were talking about how you can break a shock without proper overextension support? I snapped my Konis messing around with the axle while on the FDstands, before I got the straps in. Modified a brand new set of Tokicos, I happened to have on the shelf, for my old 1968 AMC AMX. Fit like a glove. I can now add AMC to my list of off brand parts on the car. :biggthumpup:

[JL1RX7]

Gunny's been around since before middle earth. So someplace other than that!

[RedR1]

Oh BTW just for you Chris. Remember how we were talking about how you can break a shock without proper overextension support? I snapped my Konis messing around with the axle while on the FDstands, before I got the straps in. Modified a brand new set of Tokicos, I happened to have on the shelf, for my old 1968 AMC AMX. Fit like a glove. I can now add AMC to my list of off brand parts on the car. :biggthumpup:

Dang. . . . FDstands. . . . I WILL CUT YOU :lol:

how did they snap? over extended too fast?

[GySgtFrank]

Dang. . . . FDstands. . . . I WILL CUT YOU :lol:

how did they snap? over extended too fast?

The suspension was hanging from the shocks (figured I'd be OK since it was on the stands). I started messing with the driveline angle by jacking the front snout on the axle. With the shocks at full extension they didn't have any give and snapped the shaft on one, bent the shaft on the other. Not one of my smarter moments. :icon_no2:

[JL1RX7]

The suspension was hanging from the shocks (figured I'd be OK since it was on the stands). I started messing with the driveline angle by jacking the front snout on the axle. With the shocks at full extension they didn't have any give and snapped the shaft on one, bent the shaft on the other. Not one of my smarter moments. :icon_no2:


Better you did it now than at high speed in a corner.

[GySgtFrank]

Better you did it now than at high speed in a corner.

True. But I already knew I needed limiting straps before I drove it any more that way. I thought I could get away with it while on stands, but I was wrong.

[JL1RX7]

True. But I already knew I needed limiting straps before I drove it any more that way. I thought I could get away with it while on stands, but I was wrong.

Didn't you already get some straps for the suspension? or are these something else entirely?

[GySgtFrank]

No I have limiting straps now. I snapped the shocks while I was waiting for them to make my straps. Just a cautionary tale for those that plan to do major work to their rear suspension, make sure that your shocks are NOT the limiters under extension (or compression either).

[Whizbang]

you know what other rotary had limiting straps? the 110s cosmo.

[GySgtFrank]

you know what other rotary had limiting straps? the 110s cosmo.

Didn't know that. Love those cars.

[mystery]

Awesome man good work!

[GySgtFrank]

Thanks mystery. It has kept me, umm... amused?, trying things.

[Whizbang]

needs a bigger turbo

[GySgtFrank]

needs a bigger turbo

What turbo? It's NA you lout. :) I have plans eventually, we'll have to see what's viable when I get to that point.

[Whizbang]

okay so then you need to put a turbo on it. Then immediately remove that turbo, and install a bigger turbo.

[GySgtFrank]

Uhh.. No. I'm not a rich dude like you California types.

[Whizbang]

Uhh.. No. I'm not a rich dude like you California types.

Pssh, I grew up in Cleveland. Our turbos came off garbage trucks that took too long loading up in our "hood"

[GySgtFrank]

Pssh, I grew up in Cleveland. Our turbos came off garbage trucks that took too long loading up in our "hood"

But you're moving to California with all the rest of the rich hipsters.

Going turbo involves ECU and fuel upgrades that I just can't afford right now. I'm trying to get the brakes, suspension, and tires upgraded to take more power. Then I'll be installing a cage and doing chassis reinforcement. Only after the chassis is where I want it, will I start upgrading the fuel system and get a good stand alone ECU, the exhaust is already done other than tweaking it. Then the engine insanity can commence. :drool5:

[JL1RX7]

Get a some of the extra horsepowers from Glenn the maniac all of the horsepowers king. He might a some left over on his quest for all of them.

[GySgtFrank]

Get a some of the extra horsepowers from Glenn the maniac all of the horsepowers king. He might a some left over on his quest for all of them.

Unfortunately Glenn's horsepowers are GM contaminated. :(

[JL1RX7]

Unfortunately Glenn's horsepowers are GM contaminated. :(


Like your's aren't? Or is that the only brand that isn't used in this build?

[GySgtFrank]

Like your's aren't? Or is that the only brand that isn't used in this build?

Nope, no Gross Malpractice parts here. Ford, Mopar, Mazda, and aftermarket only.

[mazpower]

Get a some of the extra horsepowers from Glenn the maniac all of the horsepowers king. He might a some left over on his quest for all of them.

Unfortunately Glenn's horsepowers are GM contaminated. :(

:rofl: :lol:





:squint:
































:smilielol5:

[GySgtFrank]

Progress has been slow. The front suspension is being a real pain. Lots of measuring, fitting, tack into place, and recheck. Pull it all loose, cut it apart, re-measure, re-cut, re-weld, fit, tack, repeat. I do believe it's right this time. I hope anyway as this part is getting tedious.

I had to move the lower A arms in and down again as the tires were a little too far out when the suspension was cycled up and down. It looks like hell at the moment, nothing some grinding and paint can't fix though. I can't go much further until I get the upper A arms and mount them, so I'll be removing the shock towers until I have to go to work for 2-3 months doing the harvest thing. So no progress will be made until I'm done with that.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5345/9674638590_2b9b003bd1_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9674638590/)
kmember (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9674638590/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[TitaniumTT]

DO IT!!!! DO IT NOAW PUSSY BEFORE IT GETS COLD!!!!!

Just got caught up in the thread Gunny..... kickass work so far.... We should chat @ DGRR in 2014.... I'll tell you my idea... but remember there are witnessesd should you attempt to kill me ;)

[GySgtFrank]

DO IT!!!! DO IT NOAW PUSSY BEFORE IT GETS COLD!!!!!

Just got caught up in the thread Gunny..... kickass work so far.... We should chat @ DGRR in 2014.... I'll tell you my idea... but remember there are witnessesd should you attempt to kill me ;)

Can't, have to go to work in a week or two so I can earn enough money to make it to DGRR, well that and car parts.

These are what I'm considering for the upper A arms. The arm itself is detachable and comes in different lengths. The mounting points are slotted and use slugs to move the arm side to side for caster adjustment. The adjusters would be nice to fine tune camber adjustments with large adjustments, and camber rate changes, being made by changing out different length arms.

http://pitstopusa.com/images/M39661887.jpg

http://pitstopusa.com/images/M14590719.jpg

http://pitstopusa.com/images/M14590624.jpg

Then use an adjustable coil-over shock attached at the lower A arm.

Pitstop USA also carries splined, gun drilled, front swaybars in various lengths and diameters so I can fit it into my custom application, since neither the Mustang or FB bars will fit what I have done.

I actually moved the tires inboard about 3/4" further on each side with the intention of using through bolt spacers to mount my current high offset wheels. When I get different wheels I will be able to use something with the mounting surface closer to center of the tire. At least up front.

Needless to say, my inner fenders will have to be... ahem... modified.

Now why would I want to kill you? Hurt you severely if it involves LS's, but not kill you. :)

[TitaniumTT]

It may involve LS's :suspect:

But the route I plan to take to radically update the FailBoats lack luster suspension will be vastly different and should allow for 255+ tires at all corners....

[GySgtFrank]

It may involve LS's :suspect:

But the route I plan to take to radically update the FailBoats lack luster suspension will be vastly different and should allow for 255+ tires at all corners....

Going widebody, 255s wouldn't be any problem. I might be able to get away with 255s up front, but plan to use 245s as they are shorter than any of the 255s I've seen. I have looked at IRS and may do that myself sometime, but for now I just want to get it up and going with the suspension/chassis mods and decent power. When I start breaking the rear I'll revisit that idea I suppose.

... and both strut towers removed. Plasma cutters are the shit. :)

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7313/9677804916_9c00810a28_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9677804916/)
strut tower removal (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9677804916/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[GySgtFrank]

Got some measurements from AJ to verify that I had my wheels placed correctly, I did amazingly enough. So I started on clearancing for the tires. I'm going for enough clearance to run 255s if I decide to, better to set that up now than wish I had later.

Cut out most of the passenger side inner wheel well as they definitely hit pretty much everywhere. Also notching the frame rails for clearance. The tires fit without it, but being able to turn them to full lock would be a rather nice luxury. :)

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5334/9708278076_058a3cb849_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9708278076/)
front suspension (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9708278076/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7400/9708288724_d525e7914e_n.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9708288724/)
open front wheel well (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9708288724/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

I will be putting in a loop to mount the shocks to as well as the upper A arm mounts on a pedestal off the frame rails. The frame rails and loop will be triangulated back to the firewall to add stiffness and support. Need less to say lots of bracing and figuring still to go.

I also need 2 inches more clearance at the top of the wheel arches for suspension movement with the large diameter tires. Need to pull the fenders to modify the basic body structure for that.

I'm trying to get updates posted even though it's not really presentable yet, as I will be disappearing for 2 or 3 months pretty soon to go to work. I won't be able to do much else until we finish up with harvest.

[GySgtFrank]

Since we got rained out today, I finished up the passenger side wheel arch and test fitted the wheel and tire. I had to do a little more minor trimming to ensure that the wheel can turn through it's entire radius while under full compression and extension.

Wheel at full compression:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7409/9735321665_bfc0632576.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9735321665/)
full jounce (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/9735321665/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

You can actually see how I mounted my fancy dancey cold air intake. The stock box is modified and through bolted to the bottom of the structure in front of the tire. I remove the front nose panel to access it. It clears, so it looks like I don't have to redo that part at least.

[Mitchocalypse]

that car is in insane condition given its age.

nice.

[GySgtFrank]

that car is in insane condition given its age.

nice.

Thanks Mitch. It is just a base model that came with the 12A and 4 speed. The only option it had was A/C. The engine was blown and it was probably destined for the crusher, as so many other 1stgens are, if I hadn't bought it. It has some hail dents, but very little rust. The only rust through it had was where the front of the lower rear axle control arms mount to the body, the normal spot. This is no longer a concern. :)

[chibikougan]

Bitchin stang bro! :smileysex:


Haha I can't even keep air in my tires

[GySgtFrank]

Bitchin stang bro! :smileysex:

Bite me! Biotch. :)

Haha I can't even keep air in my tires

Well, mine haven't exactly been getting a lot of wear and tear on them lately either. It could be worse, we could own FDs where one set of tires is all you'll ever need. :boxing_smiley:

[the spyder]

Awesome build thread- how are you keeping the front end trammed in during the build?

[Pete_89T2]

It could be worse, we could own FDs where one set of tires is all you'll ever need. :boxing_smiley:

LOL, yeah you get a break on tires but you'll need a damned good set of jack stands that are rated for 24/7 usage!

[GySgtFrank]

Awesome build thread- how are you keeping the front end trammed in during the build?

LOTS and LOTS of measuring and fitting. :lol: Which is why it is taking so long for just a little bit of work. It has been 2 steps forward and 1 step back during this part of the build. Some days more back than forward. :)

LOL, yeah you get a break on tires but you'll need a damned good set of jack stands that are rated for 24/7 usage!

:confused: I thought those came as standard equipment on all FDs?


:biggrinjester:

[scarsofcarma]

Nice progress, keep it going :) I want to see what this can do when its done.

[GySgtFrank]

Nice progress, keep it going :) I want to see what this can do when its done.

Thank you for the encouraging words. I'm hoping to be pushing into the one G plus skidpad range for grip (on a reasonable street tire) without it being glaringly obvious what I've done. The RX-7 was pretty good at close to .8 G when they came out. I'm hoping to equal or exceed most of the new high end cars for handling. That and the ability to haul it down from speed quickly.

I have never seen anyone else doing anything quite like this to a first gen. So I'm in uncharted territory as far as I know. My experience with other cars is that the unequal length A arm suspension is markedly superior to the MacPherson Strut suspension in most respects. It also allows me to tuck a really wide tire under there, and contact patch is King (for the most part) when talking handling.

I have read up on what a lot of the folks running first gens in racing have done and what they have found effective. The good part is that they have been used in racing, and winning more often than not, for so long that there is quite a bit of experience out there. Unfortunately, while their insights have been valuable, they are limited by class rules which would preclude anything remotely like what I am doing up front. The rear suspension is a blatant copy of what others have found to work on their track cars. I have merely tried to make it more livable on a street driven car.

I'm kind of itching at the bit myself to find out whether I have been inspired or that I'm a flippin' idiot. Bets could go either way at this point. :)

[scarsofcarma]

Thank you for the encouraging words. I'm hoping to be pushing into the one G plus skidpad range for grip (on a reasonable street tire) without it being glaringly obvious what I've done. The RX-7 was pretty good at close to .8 G when they came out. I'm hoping to equal or exceed most of the new high end cars for handling. That and the ability to haul it down from speed quickly.

Yeah 1+ G is a benchmark I'm aiming for as well. I know I've experienced that before on Laguna Seca riding in a Porsche 911 on slicks. Just amazing how well that car gripped... especially while braking. It was like throwing an anchor out the back.

Racetrack tarmac is very smooth and sticky though. Not at all like the crappy street surfaces we usually drive on. 1+ G on street tires is possible sure, but it largely depends on where you're driving.

I have never seen anyone else doing anything quite like this to a first gen. So I'm in uncharted territory as far as I know.

For now yes, but I will be modifying my FB to this extreme as well just wait and see lol

My experience with other cars is that the unequal length A arm suspension is markedly superior to the MacPherson Strut suspension in most respects. It also allows me to tuck a really wide tire under there, and contact patch is King (for the most part) when talking handling.

Yes there is no doubt the double-wishbones provide a better contact patch for the tire... I had a few MKIII Supra's and I drove an FD a few times which also have that setup.

However imo there is sometimes more to be said for the MacPherson in terms of feedback. It's like a tuning fork for the tire it really picks up all the minute sensations from the road. I found the driving experience of the FD RX7 and the MKIII Supra a bit more numb in that regard.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying the cars were any slower in my hands because they weren't MacPherson. It's just that I was slightly less confident about what the limit of the tire was, and were not even talking about a big difference. Maybe 10-20% less feedback felt like to me.

On a track that difference wouldn't seem so big, but on a mountain road with a generally lousy road surface, with no runoff areas, feedback from your tires is everything.

I have read up on what a lot of the folks running first gens in racing have done and what they have found effective. The good part is that they have been used in racing, and winning more often than not, for so long that there is quite a bit of experience out there. Unfortunately, while their insights have been valuable, they are limited by class rules which would preclude anything remotely like what I am doing up front. The rear suspension is a blatant copy of what others have found to work on their track cars. I have merely tried to make it more livable on a street driven car.

I'm kind of itching at the bit myself to find out whether I have been inspired or that I'm a flippin' idiot. Bets could go either way at this point. :)

Yeah I am also very interested to learn about what has been tried and done on high performance racing FB's that were not so limited by class rules. Millen's RX7's, and those group B FB rally cars for instance were pretty extreme.

[GySgtFrank]

Yeah 1+ G is a benchmark I'm aiming for as well.

It's what I'm shooting for, doesn't mean I'll get it. :lol: I'll give it my best shot anyway. I don't know about the feedback issue, you may be right on that. I wonder how much of that is due to the weight of the car though, the FD and especially the Supra aren't exactly lightweights. That's the biggest reason I chose the 1st gen over the FC and FD chassis. (I don't actually hate the other generations, just returning the harassment others have dished out :)) The first generation RX-7 was ridiculously light for a street car. I thought about going with a swapped Miata for this reason, but the RX-7 chassis should be stiffer than the convertible chassis and there is very little difference in their weights.

I know the SLA suspension will keep the tire in better contact with the road, providing more ultimate grip. So between the grip factor, and the need for tucking in large rubber, I decided to go this direction. A widebody with an increase in track width would have been more effective, but I want to keep it approximately stock in appearance. I would imagine that a widebody would get a lot of scrutiny from any law enforcement in the area. Between the large rubber and my upgraded brakes I should get pretty decent braking performance as well.

As you said there is a big difference in quality of the road surface between a racetrack and normal street driving though. Race cars can get away with a lot of things that won't work on the street. I'm trying to come as close as I can to that level of performance without losing the ability to drive it regularly.

[scarsofcarma]

It's what I'm shooting for, doesn't mean I'll get it. :lol: I'll give it my best shot anyway. I don't know about the feedback issue, you may be right on that. I wonder how much of that is due to the weight of the car though, the FD and especially the Supra aren't exactly lightweights.

Yeah a Supra is a heavy beast but weight is not always bad. A Supra is not a flickable or tossable car but it turns better than you might expect. There are lots of heavy cars that can manage 1+ G. More weight on a tire (to a point) creates a greater coefficient of friction and helps grip. More weight allows for more static grip in the tire, as well as more weight available for weight-transfer in grip driving. But of course, more weight works the tire harder so it wears and possibly overheats faster.

There are many great cars in the world that are heavy but through clever engineering actually make that extra overall curb weight an asset like the GTR.

In the general sense of performance, the ratio of power to weight is more important than the actual power or weight numbers themselves. In the truest sense of performance though, power is king as long as you can find a way to put all that power to the ground. That's what makes cars like the GTR and 911 so impressive.

That's the biggest reason I chose the 1st gen over the FC and FD chassis. (I don't actually hate the other generations, just returning the harassment others have dished out :)) The first generation RX-7 was ridiculously light for a street car. I thought about going with a swapped Miata for this reason, but the RX-7 chassis should be stiffer than the convertible chassis and there is very little difference in their weights.

My bridgeported RX3-SP, fully caged with a Ford 8.8" rear end in it was in the 2300 lb range when I corner weighed it. But so what? That car had no traction. When I swapped its engine in my FB (just a street car with a full interior) I was actually able to put the bridgeport power to use. The FB was way faster, but on paper it should have been slower.

As you said there is a big difference in quality of the road surface between a racetrack and normal street driving though. Race cars can get away with a lot of things that won't work on the street. I'm trying to come as close as I can to that level of performance without losing the ability to drive it regularly.

That's exactly my goal as well. I drive sports cars not just for fun, but because I know they can out handle and out brake those other cars with incompetent drivers that cause accidents all the time in urban areas. Or help me dodge the grossly overpopulated deer population in rural mountain areas.

[GySgtFrank]

That's exactly my goal as well. I drive sports cars not just for fun, but because I know they can out handle and out brake those other cars with incompetent drivers that cause accidents all the time in urban areas. Or help me dodge the grossly overpopulated deer population in rural mountain areas.

:cheers2: Funny you should mention deer as a very close encounter is what started me down this path. ;)

A lot of the RX-3s problem is that the stock suspension on those suck. They were designed as an economy commuter car and handling wasn't really in the equation except as an afterthought. The FB didn't weigh all that much more and even the first gens suspension was a vast improvement over the earlier cars. My SA weighed in at 2340 with everything in it and a full tank of fuel before I started modifying it. Hopefully I don't add too much weight to it, but I'm sure I'll add some. :gnorsi:

[Anoesis]

:)

[chrisflaco_fc]

Great thread, I'd love to see what exactly you have in store for the motor later.

[GySgtFrank]

Great thread, I'd love to see what exactly you have in store for the motor later.

Thanks. I'm not quite sure which way I want to go on that myself yet. I'm trying to get all of the supporting hardware in place first. I will be shooting for the 350 HP level and staying rotary, so it will probably be a single turbo 13B REW based engine, we'll have to see when I get to that point. :)

While I was off playing farmer, I'm temporarily home as you can't cut corn in a snow storm, I ordered the upper A arms and hardware from pitstopusa.com. The parts are already here and exactly what I ordered. Which for those of you that know of my supplier travails, came as a pleasant surprise.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3670/10354076083_2c41c79f8b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/10354076083/)
new upper A arms (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/10354076083/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

They are Joe's Racing upper arms made for racing, but should work for what I want. They provide for adjusting camber and caster with minimal fuss using spacers (the blue things in the back) and slugs to adjust side to side and up and down for roll center adjustments. The arms are replaceable in different lengths if I need to change the camber gain as the tire moves through it's arc. They use a standard screw in ball joint, which I will pick up locally.

The only concern that I have is that the arms are suspended with non compliant bearings instead of rubber or poly bushings. Which is great for free movement, but they may be a bit harsh on the street. They are not the load bearing arms, so it shouldn't be too bad. The only way to find out is to try it I guess. Appropriate since this whole thing is one big bloody experiment anyway. :lol:

[RXtacy]

Looking really good Kevin. Keep up the good work. I look forward to seeing it at DGRR!

[GySgtFrank]

Looking really good Kevin. Keep up the good work. I look forward to seeing it at DGRR!

Thanks Mike. I finished up the other wheel arch and was trying to figure out how I was going to mount the arms this weekend, while I had a little time off. I came to the conclusion that I need to get some ball joints before I can finalize how I'm going to do it though. I need a week day off so I can do some shopping at the local race chassis shop. :07:

[RXtacy]

Thanks Mike. I finished up the other wheel arch and was trying to figure out how I was going to mount the arms this weekend, while I had a little time off. I came to the conclusion that I need to get some ball joints before I can finalize how I'm going to do it though. I need a week day off so I can do some shopping at the local race chassis shop. :07:

Sounds overpriced already :lol:

[GySgtFrank]

Sounds overpriced already :lol:

This is Kansas. Local redneck circle track shop. Prices don't look too bad. Not O'Reilly's level of pricing though. :lol:

Need a couple of threaded upper ball joints, so normal auto parts stores aren't an option. Could order on line, but I want to make sure they're going to actually fit before I plunk down the dollars.

[GySgtFrank]

If anyone needs more proof that I'm an idjit.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5536/10651845725_7f10be672d_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/10651845725/)
upper arm (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/10651845725/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

When I put the upper mounts in they needed to sit where my new frame rails were at in order to get my Instant Center/Roll Center correct. Sooo. More cutting and fitting will be called for. Waiting on a digital caster/camber gauge so I can do final positioning on the A arms. (This is where I think it has to be, we'll see)

Setting my roll center to 1/2" above the ground and centered on the chassis. Initial setting for caster will be 5 to 7 degrees positive. Camber will be at zero with my adjustment all the way down. I'll use spacers to set that where I need it later.

[GySgtFrank]

Done with farming, back to work on the car and the never ending build thread.

Trying something different can be ... trying. I think I finally have the right side upper arm in position. 1.5 degrees camber, 6 degrees caster, 10 degree down angle on upper arm, 0 degree angle on lower arm. With full adjustability to make changes (which was what I was really after). Time to weld it in again. I've had to cut out so many previous ga-genius ideas that my engine bay looks like something from the Texas Chainsaw Massacre movies. Lots of grinding ahead. :blush5:

[GySgtFrank]

Doesn't look like much, but a lot of work to get this far.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5495/10915802755_72d5c35d80_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/10915802755/)
Front frame arch 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/10915802755/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[GySgtFrank]

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7387/11395094083_36b16de5ef_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/11395094083/)
shock tower rough (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/11395094083/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

OK, go ahead and laugh. The passenger side is roughed in and back on the ground. Had to modify the original struts to take a heim joint at the bottom and weld on a perch to accept the coil over spring. Did some clearancing on the lower arm and added tabs to mount the shock as far out on the arm as possible. Then the real fun began trying to get the upper plate at the right height and angles so that nothing binds as the wheel moves, keep it within the bounds of ride height adjustment, and make sure the shock doesn't stick through the hood (the last was harder than it sounds). Also modified the coil over tube and went to a 275 pound 12" tall spring. I need to get some more measurements and do some adjusting now that it's on the ground. Then close and clean it up. Not looking forward to doing the other side, but it should go a bit faster now that I have some idea of what the he** I'm doing.

[chibikougan]

Nice!

[GySgtFrank]

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2873/11896165825_45d4c82c26_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/11896165825/)

Just to let y'all know I'm still at it. Now that I trial fitted both sides, found that my top mounts were about 1 1/2 inches too far back. I was unable to move them far enough even with the adjustment I built in. Put in new upper A arm mounts and pulled everything back apart to put in the actual bracing and shock/spring mounts. Starting to get it ground down and cleaned up. Slow, but getting there.

[JL1RX7]

Gunny How much original stuff is left? Lots of hard work is see.

[GySgtFrank]

Gunny How much original stuff is left? Lots of hard work is see.

The front and rear frame stubs are still original. ;)

[JL1RX7]

Oh and the VIN plate on the firewall. Don't forget that!

[GySgtFrank]

Oh and the VIN plate on the firewall. Don't forget that!

Well, hopefully the mods won't show from the outside. It should look relatively stock at first glance. Unless you lift the hood (or bonnet for Bri-Bri). :D

[GySgtFrank]

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5512/11973963114_0c96ea2549_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/11973963114/)
frame & hoops (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/11973963114/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

I got the other side in and welded up today with a bit of a struggle. Deleted the brake vacuum booster and incorporated the brake master cylinder mounting plate into the plate for the hoop. Far more compact mounting. I'll have to see how well the brakes work without it. This should make the frame rails pretty strong and get rid of any flex.

[hades]

Good luck man. That's a lot of work.

[GySgtFrank]

Thanks Jeff. It keeps me out of trouble, sort of. :lol:

[chibikougan]

Nice

[djmtsu]

Soooooo.....you gonna make DGRR this year?

Yikes!

[GySgtFrank]

Soooooo.....you gonna make DGRR this year?

Yikes!

I think so. Despite how it looks, I'm actually getting pretty close to buttoning it up to reinstall everything.

[GySgtFrank]

Pics or I don't believe you :squint:

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5487/12039158763_01655c79c1.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/12039158763/)
lower frame rail (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/12039158763/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

The lower rail is what the cradle will bolt to. Should have the rail on the other side done tonight or tomorrow.

[chibikougan]

Nice!

[GySgtFrank]

Thanks Cheebs. At least it has a nice flat surface to bolt the lower cradle to when I get that finished up. :biggthumpup:

[chibikougan]

That is a little handy...

[GySgtFrank]

So... I screwed up again. The upper mounts are off by 1/2" on the driver's side and the passenger side was off by 3/4 - 1". I could have sworn I had them right that time, but it was not to be. I did have enough adjustment to get them where they needed to be, but they were at the very end of the adjustment and then some. Not comfortable running it that way so here we go again. Trying to get an accurate measurement with very few squared up surfaces is a pain in the ass. So I need to cut them out one more time. Getting a little smarter this time and building a stand alone box for the mounts. That way I can tack it in place and move the whole thing when I get the alignment equipment back on it.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5498/12227474796_a6b3d0435e_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/12227474796/)
upper A arm mount part 3 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/12227474796/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

Also did a little modification while the mounts are out. I didn't care much for the camber adjustment as it tended to move too far while adjusting and it was a pain to bring it back. So I drilled out the front holes and welded 1/2 - 20 nuts on them then put a cap and nut on the other side as well. That way I can run a fine thread 1/2" bolt in each side to push the mounting block back and forth for fine adjustment. It will also help lock it in place more securely.

Cross my fingers and hope I get it right this time. :lol:

[JL1RX7]

Measure once weld 4 times?

[GySgtFrank]

Measure once weld 4 times?

or keep cutting and welding until you get it right. ;)

[hades]

or keep cutting and welding until you get it right. ;)

Because dumb great bend marine :uhh:

[GySgtFrank]

Because dumb great bend marine :uhh:

Watch it! I resemble that remark. :squint:

[GySgtFrank]

OK. Plan 436. I ran out of letters a ways back and had to start numbering them.

To fix the problem of being at the end of my adjustment range (and still being .2 degrees off in caster side to side). I came up with putting an adjustment rail on top of my existing camber adjustment rail. This necessitated raising the mounting point and opening up some more room to the rear. I'm using stop bolts on both sides of the clamping rails so I hopefully get no movement from my adjusters when under load. This is in addition to the bolts that clamp it all together. I have been a little concerned to make doubly sure I get no movement once I get the @#$%^ thing adjusted to the correct spot.

The bottom cradle will also be able to move forward and back using a bolt and stop nuts on the bracket at the front of the lower rail. The clamping bolts on the lower rail will be slotted. It SHOULD fix my adjustability problems. I need to weld in a plate to close up the top of the mount with the upper hoop and put some gusseting across it so that the mount is rock steady.

Not the most elegant solution, but I will have full fine adjustability to dial it in, as well as the ability to make large adjustments when I decide to do something stupid. Such as playing with my wheelbase.

Me actually getting the car to DGRR is starting to look pretty iffy, since things are refusing to cooperate. Regardless of whether the little (insert Peter's favorite word here) gets there or not, I plan to be there this year.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7365/12847426843_3ff8428698_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/12847426843/)
plan 436 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/12847426843/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[TitaniumTT]

Hey Gunny.... one more night of insomnia, although I'm happy to see you're making progress. Such an undertaking man.... it's looking really REALLY sick.... something I've never seen done before to that extent on a little first gen... can't wait to see it done.

[GySgtFrank]

Hey Gunny.... one more night of insomnia, although I'm happy to see you're making progress. Such an undertaking man.... it's looking really REALLY sick.... something I've never seen done before to that extent on a little first gen... can't wait to see it done.

Thank'ee sir! I really have to get it right one of these times. Getting tired of putting it together, then having to cut it all out and start over when it doesn't quite do what I want it to. I think I've played too much of that stupid Gran Turismo game. My favorite part is buying the full race suspension and playing with all the settings just to see what it does. I have a need for a real one. ;)

I figure if I can stuff enough tire under there and get the settings right I can save on brake pad replacements, 'cuz we just won't brake fur no stoopid corners.

I'll have brakes too though, just for those damn suicidal deer. Passenger seatbelts will be a requirement so I don't lose anybody. Windshields are expensive. :lol:

[Fendamonky]

Me actually getting the car to DGRR is starting to look pretty iffy, since things are refusing to cooperate. Regardless of whether the little (insert Peter's favorite word here) gets there or not, I plan to be there this year.

So yeah... if I ever complain about the difficulty of getting my car to run right, please redirect me to this thread :lol:

Aww-HELL-yeah!!! We'll have:


A Wild GUNNY Appeared!





Unable to Flee... :naughty:

[djmtsu]

This is one sick FB.

Are you gonna make to DGRR? LOLOLOLOLOLOL

[GySgtFrank]

Well I probably could have had it at least together and running in time if I wasn't so picky about having it work just right. I have rushed too many projects in the past to meet a deadline, and have always regretted it. I am chomping at the bit to get it running again though. I was hoping not to have it down this long, but sheiss happens.

[GySgtFrank]

Since we were having the discussion of whether an oxygen acetylene torch was still useful, or just old school BS, I thought I would show what you can do with the "Torch" that can't be done with the new fangled toys. Questioned by ta Bawbers of all people.

The gussets are 3/8 plate and the reinforcing covers are 1/8" plate. None of the covers are actually straight. They had to be heated to cherry red along the bend lines and beat into place with a hammer. Welding as you go and doing a section at a time.

I also had to put in a piece of tubing on the driver's side for a pass through for my brake line and wiring harness. It's getting a bit tight over there for room. Then made a cut on the extra left on the brake master cylinder side, heated and beat into shape to form the bottom of the pocket in my wheel well for the master cylinder.

I love my plasma cutter, but there are some things it just won't do.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3438/13068897295_bba964a4e6_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13068897295/)
upper arm perch 3 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13068897295/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3546/13068894955_689d01155b_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13068894955/)
upper arm perch 4 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13068894955/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7407/13069216704_b1c823e33e_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13069216704/)
upper arm perch 5 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13069216704/) by GySgtFrank (http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

As you can tell, lots of grinding for clean up left to do.

[RXtacy]

Looking good Kevin :icon_tup:

You got just over a month to finish it. ;)

[GySgtFrank]

Looking good Kevin :icon_tup:

You got just over a month to finish it. ;)

I hate you. :lol:

[JL1RX7]

Almost looking like a real car! Gunny I know all the hard work, blood sweet and tears you have in that. Hope you can bring the car this year!

[GySgtFrank]

Done filling the extraneous holes and doing the rough grind on the new front frame structure. I was asked for pictures so here they are, you folks are gluttons for pictures. :lol:

It doesn't look that much different from the previous pictures, but it does look a lot cleaner than before in person. I'll go to my orbital sander and paper before I lay down the primer. No sense getting too carried away until I have it closed all the way up. Some of the welds were damn ugly, but I have most of the ones that will show in the engine bay cleaned up. The ones in the wheel wells wil get a good coating of primer, seam sealer, and undercoating. Again no sense getting carried away tidying those up too much.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2834/13314348153_0983812f11_z.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13314348153/)
filled and ground 1 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13314348153/) by GySgtFrank (https://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3700/13314559074_4d12cf7428_z.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13314559074/)
filled and ground 2 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13314559074/) by GySgtFrank (https://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7069/13314344833_a85a1c94ba_z.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13314344833/)
filled and ground 3 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13314344833/) by GySgtFrank (https://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2886/13314342463_bc15d5e7f1_z.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13314342463/)
filled and ground 4 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13314342463/) by GySgtFrank (https://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[2gslse]

Looking good gunny but are you going to have enough room for a turbo in there?

[GySgtFrank]

Not sure. I've only lost about two inches of room across the engine bay. I've been trying my best not to encroach on the space for engine stuffs, but some compromises had to be made.

I've actually been really interested to see how AJ's screw style supercharger worked out for him. By the time the procrastinator general gets it on there though I'll probably be pushing up daisies.

[chibikougan]

Whooooooo!

[GySgtFrank]

Just got back from scoping out the salvage yard. I need to replace the sheetmetal structure that I removed to put in the new spring perches and framing. Trying to build something that looks half assed decent will be a royal b****. Looking at the metal inner fenders from a 1967 Country Squire wagon. They were still made with real metal and appear to be about the same gauge as my original inner structure. It would save me a ton of metal forming work for 40 - 50 bucks. The stamped metal would also look a lot cleaner than my hacked and welded original plan. It will still need to be cut to size and welded in though to make sure the unibody structure remains at least as strong as the original. They have lots of cool stuff over there, I need more money, and time.:lol:

[TitaniumTT]

Done filling the extraneous holes and doing the rough grind on the new front frame structure. I was asked for pictures so here they are, you folks are gluttons for pictures. :lol:

It doesn't look that much different from the previous pictures, but it does look a lot cleaner than before in person. I'll go to my orbital sander and paper before I lay down the primer. No sense getting too carried away until I have it closed all the way up. Some of the welds were damn ugly, but I have most of the ones that will show in the engine bay cleaned up. The ones in the wheel wells wil get a good coating of primer, seam sealer, and undercoating. Again no sense getting carried away tidying those up too much.



Looks really fucking great man. Awesome job! For damn sure.

After the primer goes down are you going to skim coat the entire bay with some plastic and then sand it down before more primer and then some sanding and then some plastic and then some primer and then some primer surface and then some more sanding and then some primer and then some color and then some clear and some clear and some more clear?

Looking good gunny but are you going to have enough room for a turbo in there?

There's always room for one of those :D

Not sure. I've only lost about two inches of room across the engine bay. I've been trying my best not to encroach on the space for engine stuffs, but some compromises had to be made.

Depending on where those 2" are will determine how bad it will be to get a little turbo in there....

I've actually been really interested to see how AJ's screw style supercharger worked out for him. By the time the procrastinator general gets it on there though I'll probably be pushing up daisies.

He's doing a blow through right? How hard would it be to keep the damn thing FI?

Just got back from scoping out the salvage yard. I need to replace the sheetmetal structure that I removed to put in the new spring perches and framing. Trying to build something that looks half assed decent will be a royal b****. Looking at the metal inner fenders from a 1967 Country Squire wagon. They were still made with real metal and appear to be about the same gauge as my original inner structure. It would save me a ton of metal forming work for 40 - 50 bucks. The stamped metal would also look a lot cleaner than my hacked and welded original plan. It will still need to be cut to size and welded in though to make sure the unibody structure remains at least as strong as the original. They have lots of cool stuff over there, I need more money, and time.:lol:

That right there is a great idea...

[GySgtFrank]

Looks really fucking great man. Awesome job! For damn sure.

Danke

After the primer goes down are you going to skim coat the entire bay with some plastic and then sand it down before more primer and then some sanding and then some plastic and then some primer and then some primer surface and then some more sanding and then some primer and then some color and then some clear and some clear and some more clear?

No! keep your evil thoughts away! ;) I plan to just get primer on there and run it that way until I know for sure where everything is going to be and all modifications are done. I've painted cars before and only want to go through that bullpuckey once.

He's doing a blow through right? How hard would it be to keep the damn thing FI?

If I were to go the supercharger route that's what I would do. Use an engine setup for turbo(s) and just get my boost from a different source. AJ has to do things the hard way though.

Yeah, right, look who's talkin'. :lol:

[TitaniumTT]

Danke

:cheers:

No! keep your evil thoughts away! ;) I plan to just get primer on there and run it that way until I know for sure where everything is going to be and all modifications are done. I've painted cars before and only want to go through that bullpuckey once.

Truff... I meant after everything is done and welded and you're getting the entire car painted. I did it with the FC and plan on doing it with the 'vert.... closed up all the holes and filled and faired a little.. on the FC.... the 'vert I want to make a much cleaner engine bay..

If I were to go the supercharger route that's what I would do. Use an engine setup for turbo(s) and just get my boost from a different source. AJ has to do things the hard way though.

Gotcha... sounds like an idea... how much power are you looking for? I'm assuming you'd be using either 8.5 or 9.0:1 rotors?

Yeah, right, look who's talkin'. :lol:

:smilielol5:

[GySgtFrank]

Truff... I meant after everything is done and welded and you're getting the entire car painted. I did it with the FC and plan on doing it with the 'vert.... closed up all the holes and filled and faired a little.. on the FC.... the 'vert I want to make a much cleaner engine bay..

When I'm ready for paint I'll probably media blast the engine bay then yeah lots of sanding, sealer, primer, et al. I have some ideas for subtle body mods I'd like to do before that though. Such as extend the wheelbase front and rear (which I should be able to do with my setup) and move the wheel openings, clean up the bumpers, lower the front edge of the windshield so the roof line is flat, etc. Just a clean up of the lines without actually altering the intended shape. Mostly ideas taken from the Hot Rod realm. Who knows if I'll ever manage to get to that point though. Suspension, chassis reinforcement, electronics, and engine will be enough to keep me busy for quite a while.

Gotcha... sounds like an idea... how much power are you looking for? I'm assuming you'd be using either 8.5 or 9.0:1 rotors?

I'd like to be in the 300 to 350 hp range, but even the stock REW numbers would be an improvement. I was planning to look for some S4 TII 8.5s, durability would be very high on my desirability list.

[TitaniumTT]

When I'm ready for paint I'll probably media blast the engine bay then yeah lots of sanding, sealer, primer, et al. I have some ideas for subtle body mods I'd like to do before that though. Such as extend the wheelbase front and rear (which I should be able to do with my setup) and move the wheel openings, clean up the bumpers, lower the front edge of the windshield so the roof line is flat, etc. Just a clean up of the lines without actually altering the intended shape. Mostly ideas taken from the Hot Rod realm. Who knows if I'll ever manage to get to that point though. Suspension, chassis reinforcement, electronics, and engine will be enough to keep me busy for quite a while.

Not sure if serious....

I'd like to be in the 300 to 350 hp range, but even the stock REW numbers would be an improvement. I was planning to look for some S4 TII 8.5s, durability would be very high on my desirability list.

That's a no brainer....

FWIW a stock FD will make about 210-215 on a dynojet. I've done 196 on an S5 for a the shops ITS car and over 220 with a halfie and ITB's....

I think 350 plus would be a good time. You can always turn the boost down but who the hell wants to do that? :lol:

[GySgtFrank]

Not sure if serious....

Actually I am, but the likelihood of me ever getting to it is slim to none. The kinds of mods I'd like to do would be similar to the kinds of things that Foose does with subtle modifications. Things that you wouldn't really notice unless you were looking for them. Some of the lines of the car don't quite flow the way they should. They still look pretty damn good for a production line compact car though.

That's a no brainer....

FWIW a stock FD will make about 210-215 on a dynojet. I've done 196 on an S5 for a the shops ITS car and over 220 with a halfie and ITB's....

I think 350 plus would be a good time. You can always turn the boost down but who the hell wants to do that? :lol:

Hmmm... What I would really like would be a N/A 20B (I'd settle for a 4 rotor too. :lol:) with the ITBs. However like so many other things, that's probably just a pipe dream and the reality will more likely be a boosted 13B and a paint job.

Hell at this point I would settle for just getting the stupid thing back on it's wheels so I can push it over a cliff somewhere.

[GySgtFrank]

I am now the proud owner of a pair of crusty old inner fenders for a '66 Galaxy wagon. It only took me about 7 hours to get the blankedy blank things out of the car. Hopefully they save me enough metal forming time to make them worth it.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7014/13390577323_49958fbc34_z.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13390577323/)
fender wells (https://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/13390577323/) by GySgtFrank (https://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/), on Flickr

[JL1RX7]

Was the coffee can in the fender well? Or just a bonus?

[GySgtFrank]

Was the coffee can in the fender well? Or just a bonus?

believe it or not that's an early charcoal canister for emissions, the car was originally from Califor-Ny-Ay.

[JL1RX7]

believe it or not that's an early charcoal canister for emissions, the car was originally from Califor-Ny-Ay.


Guessing coffee cans were the right size and cost.

[GySgtFrank]

Guessing coffee cans were the right size and cost.

and probably more effective than the over-engineered and over-priced units used later.

Now that you mention it I may need to keep that. Put a coffee label on it and use it in the engine bay. After all, the build would never have been possible without large quantities of liquid alertness.

[GySgtFrank]

The left front arch is in.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3787/13548014535_ca182f1d26_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mDc7Hv)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7317/13548196543_fc754b761f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mDd3Pz)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7295/13548322534_98969bfc39_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mDdGgQ)

[chibikougan]

Like a boss!

[mazpower]

Badass Kevin!

Did you still want a bellhousing? I might be able to tow it behind my car LOL...

[GySgtFrank]

Badass Kevin!

Did you still want a bellhousing? I might be able to tow it behind my car LOL...

Whenever you get a chance. Like I said, I kind of have my hands full with this part of the project at the moment. :lol:

[mazpower]

Whenever you get a chance. Like I said, I kind of have my hands full with this part of the project at the moment. :lol:

Will you have a way of bringing it back to KS with you from DGRR? Or is shipping better?

[GySgtFrank]

Will you have a way of bringing it back to KS with you from DGRR? Or is shipping better?

We'll probably have to go with shipping, as I'll be flying this time. I don't think I'm going to have the car together in time. :o

[GySgtFrank]

I finally got the rear portion of the driver's side wheel well done. It was a pain as I had to make it from small sections of flat sheet, heat and bend them, then weld the whole mess in. The welds are smoothed and I have primer on it anyway.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3670/13656615515_fd34d48c7e_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mNMJ1c)

[chibikougan]

Damn fine for no sandbag, planishing hammer, and English wheel

[GySgtFrank]

Damn fine for no sandbag, planishing hammer, and English wheel

I'm not that fancy. I just want to get it back on it's wheels and moving.

Currently paying the price for trying to work on a GM product. I need to get back on the RX-7, but the @#$%* truck has other ideas. The up side is that it gives a perspective on just how good the Mazda engineers were, (and just how bad GM is).

[TitaniumTT]

:rofl: Yeah.... fuck gm :lol:

What's the latest on the 7? Or has she been shunned for the POS PU?

[GySgtFrank]

:rofl: Yeah.... fuck gm :lol:

What's the latest on the 7? Or has she been shunned for the POS PU?

I keep looking at it and wishing I was working on that instead. :(

I've been through 3 engines and two chassis' with this POS and still no joy. All of my spares turned out to be garbage and the original still won't run. If you think Microwreck ECUs are bad, try screwing around with the early stock GM TBI ECU. Finding wiring diagrams and information is almost impossible (Chilton and Haynes books must have been written by people working at GM, utterly useless), it's as if GM thinks they're data is Top Secret. I'm at the point where I'm about to yank the whole works and push it off to the side, until I can afford to build an old school carbureted and HEI ignited small block. They were the last thing Garbage Motors built that was worth a crap. This thing is just not worth the headaches.

[GySgtFrank]

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3835/14446253601_62c22366a3.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o1yPTX)back to work (https://flic.kr/p/o1yPTX) by GySgtFrank (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr


... and back to our regularly scheduled programming. :)

[chibikougan]

Cool!

[estevan62274]

Glad to see you back at it, one of my favorite first gens.
I hope to see it next year at DGRR:icon_tup::icon_tup:

.

[GySgtFrank]

Glad to see you back at it, one of my favorite first gens.
I hope to see it next year at DGRR:icon_tup::icon_tup:

.

Thanks, so do I. :lol:

Do you think you'll have your FB ready by next year?

[estevan62274]

Thanks, so do I. :lol:

Do you think you'll have your FB ready by next year?



Yeah, that's the plan but it was the plan last year and it didn't happen :banghead:

.

[GySgtFrank]

Yeah, that's the plan but it was the plan last year and it didn't happen :banghead:

.

It sounds like you're on the same plan I am. I need to get a different plan. :lol:

[GySgtFrank]

Finally done with the grinding on the left side and threw a quick coat of primer on there. I can no longer get the good 3M etching primer here, so I had to make do with Krylon. Which is why there is a color change in my primer.

Oh well. I'm not going to get carried away with paint yet. A good rattle can job will do in the engine bay until I'm done with the engine and all likely mods. I'll then have everything media blasted and use filler (or lead?) to smooth everything out prior to laying on the actual finish coat.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5545/14476696664_7882af0f29.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o4fRym)left wheel well 1 (https://flic.kr/p/o4fRym) by GySgtFrank (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3854/14476696244_cef4c52596.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o4fRr7)left wheel well 2 (https://flic.kr/p/o4fRr7) by GySgtFrank (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5556/14291449777_63000863a4.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nLTq7v)left wheel well 3 (https://flic.kr/p/nLTq7v) by GySgtFrank (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2905/14291261869_d0792ec642.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nLSsfH)left wheel well 4 (https://flic.kr/p/nLSsfH) by GySgtFrank (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



... and a shot of both wheel wells done and in primer. It's amazing how much faster and easier it always is to tear stuff apart rather than putting it back together again.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5501/14476697244_f0f55474cd_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o4fRJm)left and right wheel wells (https://flic.kr/p/o4fRJm) by GySgtFrank (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

I still have to do a little cleanup on the bottom of the right side and get it in primer, then I'll be finished with the sheet metal portion. Then back to the lower K-member/upper shock mounts. *groan* I have to put it all back together again. at least once and probably more, just to check measurements and then take it all back apart again for final fixes to both.

Yes I will get this done this year. At least until I tear something else apart and have it laying in pieces again. I suffer from a little recognized malady known as Brian Treffeisen's Disease, or CQFWI (Can't Quit F***ing With It). :lol:

[chibikougan]

Nice!

I like me some Krylon.

[estevan62274]

BADASSNESS! :icon_tup::icon_tup:

Can my SE be next :drool5:

.

[GySgtFrank]

Nice!

I like me some Krylon.

I'm not too thrilled with it, but it's only there to keep the rust off until I'm finished and can blast it all back off anyway. I'm partial to PPG products for paint, but that's a whole lot more work and expense than I can justify doing more than once.

BADASSNESS! :icon_tup::icon_tup:

Can my SE be next :drool5:

.

Thanks. I don't think you would want to do it this way. Way too many hours involved. I have worked out a few easier, faster, and better ways to accomplish something similar. You always do after the fact. :lol: I'm committed now (or maybe that's "should be committed now") and have to do it this way. It's the part about keeping it under the stock sheet metal that has really complicated things.

[GySgtFrank]

I got the suspension bolted back in. I had to make a bunch of studs for the adjustment boxes which took a fair bit of time. Went in with no problems for a change and left me just slightly negative of zero camber at the full out position. I was trying for zero, but I got about .2 of a degree negative. Close enough. I haven't checked caster yet, but the eyeball-o-meter says it's pretty close as well.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3908/14323682028_f8e8612c53.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nPJBCY)suspension back in 1 (https://flic.kr/p/nPJBCY) by GySgtFrank (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5558/14506880581_6b94bcfbf4.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o6VybH)suspension back in 2 (https://flic.kr/p/o6VybH) by GySgtFrank (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

And surprise, surprise, the tires actually center in the openings this time. I did wipe it down for the photo, it was getting pretty grimy from sitting on stands for so long. Next check all measurements again and get the coilovers mounted. Then finish the lower K member or vice versa, either way.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5488/14509158432_f17000f72c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o78ej1)suspension back in - side shot 2 (https://flic.kr/p/o78ej1) by GySgtFrank (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

I had to put in a second shot 'cuz I'm liking the side view sitting at ride height. This was the look I was trying for. :)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3852/14510282425_4f4aebaf7d_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7dZrc)suspension back in - side shot 1 (https://flic.kr/p/o7dZrc) by GySgtFrank (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chibikougan]

Nice!

[GySgtFrank]

Nice!

See. I am doing something out in the shop.

I do spend an inordinate amount of time wandering around trying to remember where I set my tools down though. :(

[speedjunkie]

I do spend an inordinate amount of time wandering around trying to remember where I set my tools down though. :(

Story of my life.

[JL1RX7]

Gunny that's cause your old. You might not remember your bang stick if it wasn't the scent of blood on it.

Anyway looking good dude!

[GySgtFrank]

Not old, merely, well aged like a fine wine.



... that and well hung. ;)

[2gslse]

Car is looking good Gunny can't wait to see it next year and what magic will happen under the cramped engine bay.



Not old, merely, well aged like a fine wine.

You know you're old when your blood type is discontinued.:lol: