TitaniumTT/Speed1 Junkyard turbo 'Vert here we go DGRR fire build

[TitaniumTT]

One more year, one more build thread.... I will not be continuing on with the FC coupe right now. Back in November @ a PCA event I missed a shift @ 143 mph down the front straight and over-revved the hell out of the engine. The rotor touched the plate, gouged it, broke a corner seal, dented the rotor and warped a few apex seals. It's going to be a while until that engine is back up and running and there are some other things I want to do to the car as well before she gets back into action.... namely repaint a efw panels, go through the interior a bit, and add WI controlled through the MoTeC.... sooooooo since I've had this car for almost 2 years and haven't really touched it, I figure I'd get this done before DGRR which is in exactly 63 days! 63 days to build an entire car, break it in, shake her down, tune and drive her down to DGRR.... this is why it's a fire build.

A brief history of the car... I bought it almost 2 yrs ago for $800 with about $2000 worth of parts. The original intent of the PO was a turbo swap because he blew 2 coolant seals... although he only knew about the 1. He was an IT guy and in my experience, no offense to the IT guys reading this, they seem to think that because they deal with computers and cutting edge technology all day long that they can tackle anything. This guy got the mani's off before he realized he was in over his head. The car sat for 3 years before I picked it up almost 2 yrs ago. It was garage kept it's entire life until I got it. Although it was a daily and the harsh NE winters did take it's toll on the body and the top. Soooooooo yeah... she ain't in the greates shape but that's ok, we'll bring her back.

My original intent in rebuilding the car was to rebuild the n/a engine and it would be a b-day gift for my mother. I actually bought it on my mothers b-day. When I hauled the engine out I realized that it would cost a fortune to rebuild that engine. Both plates lost coolant seals... which was fine because the rotors were basically steamcleaned for me (and they are going to be donated to my coupe... yup, S4 n/a 9.4:1 rotors in a boosted engine... should be fun) but the rest of the engine was WORN THE HELL OUT. It needed every new seal imagineable. So I started looking for donor engines. Then of course I started thinking, I'm never going to find a good used n/a engine, so I'll start looking for some turbo engines last year and I found 1. Exactly 1 year to the day after I bought the car, I bought the engine.... also on my mothers b-day. The engine sat for MONTHS until I finally enlisted the help of Kyle (seen in the pics later) to run back to CT with me to get my blown coupe engine, the 'vert engine, and the 'vert.

The plan was, break down my coupe engine and get that thing sorted. She still started and ran fine, and aside from a little lope @ idle, made great power... could roast 3 gears to redline with the TC off. We all thought it was a broken side seal, flattened Apex seal springs, sticking corner seal... something, not what it actually was. So after seeing that carnage I looked to the 'vert as the car I would be bringing to DGRR.... oh shit we all thought.

It's a little dark out so I can't get pic's of the car... but the day it arrived @ the shop we were looking in the parking lot at cars that needed to be moved. Dave is saying, "move this, move that, put that one here, bring that one in, tourch that one, fuck that one..... WHO'S FUCKING PIECE OF SHIT 'VERT IS THAT?!?!?!!?"
He turn's to me because I had mentioned bringing the car up and he says, "Is that yours? What a fucking lump. Did you pull that out of a junkyard last week?" Henceforth the car was lovingly titled Junkyard 'vert. I've got boxes of parts, totes full of shit, and a few bins in the Engine room all titles Brian T Speed1 Junkyard 'Vert :rofl: Everytime he makes a comment it just gives me more motivation to get her done and done right.

The TitaniumTT/Speed1 title comes from well, the fine gents here have offered thier help when they can to make this project happen. Mostly it will be Kyle (ridiculously talented body guy) and Chris (badass engine builder) helping me out when they're not too tired... and they're both younger than me... fucking kittens, both of them :smilielol5:

Sooooo true to form... I'm waiting until I don't think I have enough time left to start a project that can't be finished just to make sure that I can make back some dividends in RedBull stock... although I have found the Starbucks energy drinks to be a little more energyifying.....

The engine I bought was used. It was sold to me as this badass monster port grandmaster cryo'ed sick ass engine. It was nothing like that. it was a totally sotck port, stock apex seal, stock bearing'ed STOCK STOCK STOCK engine. I couldn't be happier. This is a car for my mother. I want good street manners, I want a solid idle. A stock clutch is going in with a stock flyheel. Stock gears and a stock turbo. The engine management will be handled by a Haltech PS2000 (yes, two thousand) and heat exchanging will come from a fluidyne rad, FD twin oil coolers, and a W2A intercooler based of the stock TMIC. It's going to be tricky becuase I already have an Atihun hood so clearance might become an issue.

I've collected everything I need, except for of course the 2 years a project like this would normally take, so holly shit, lets get to work!!!

After I tore the engine down I cleaned most of the parts and inspected everything. The housings looked good, not great, but good, typical wear along the edges. The plates were in damn fine shape, except for the lime green paint that's on them, and the rotors looked great. This engine was supposed to have 7-8k on it.... if it did, whoever built it shouldn't have re-used the main bearings, and whoever tuned it needs to step away from the dyno... so damn rich it was retarded. You'll see a few pics of my rotors in there. They have 2x the mileage on them and 1/4 of the carbon buildup.... 'nuff said.

I'll be updating this thread daily with times spent and what's been done.

Tonight we got the housings and the front cover cleaned up and painted. I also broke the rotors down so I can clean all the seals and the rotors themselves. I wanted to spend some time tonight stripping off some of the nasty ass lime green paint but got on the phone with the girlfriend for 75 minutes so that didn't happen... oh well.... what can you do. Plan is still to get this engine built Sunday, get the car in the shop on Friday night and start tearing into the wiring on Monday. I know FC wiring DAMN well so it shouldn't be that hard at all to get that done and out of the way. Wiring the Haltech will probably consume about 20+ hours though... and yes, I sense a great deal of all nighters, sleeping on the couch, and dragging my as into work late some mornings.... the price of a rotary, what can I say.... on to the pics....

Steels... started preping the rear iron by getting that nasty paint off and pulling out the nipples for the heatercore and the TB.... I have my standard plans for those :suspect:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11595&stc=1&d=1329371472

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11596&stc=1&d=1329371472

Our badass painter helping me out doing painting type things... he actually left me to spray the parts myself. I guess after doing that Vielside car from start to finish he figures his time is too precious for a hosuing :smilielol5: Just kidding Kyle, love ya man.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11597&stc=1&d=1329371472

Housings painted. We taped them up so you couldn't see my supersecret black magic stock ports ;)

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11598&stc=1&d=1329371472

Front iron all set.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11599&stc=1&d=1329371472

Bins full of parts... the coupe engine is actually disasssembled and underneath those pigs... I'm sad about that engine.

[rxspeed7]

Let me get what's in those two boxes(wire and sleeving)!! Lol.

[TitaniumTT]

Here you can see the rotors that I'll be using. That's a retarded amount of carbon for 7-8k... REALLY? But they seem to be in PERFECT shape so I can't really complain at all about them. They're soaking in puple power right now. Hopefully Friday night I'll get a chance to clean them up and the seals. I usually frown upon re-using old seals. but this is going to be a 250-280RWHP car at full boost.... oh yeah, there will be a boost trim switch installed so we can go from Mom mode - Wastegate, to Brian mode - as much boost as the stock turbo will handle :rofl:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11600&stc=1&d=1329372248

Here you can see the rotors that I took out of the coupe. If you look closely you can see the dent that was left. Oh well, glad they were cryo'ed, that's all I'm saying. My EGT's got a little out of control, hence the reason for the WI going into the car.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11601&stc=1&d=1329372248

This is what killed me RE plates. Both front and rear touched. Damn....

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11602&stc=1&d=1329372248

And here's the broken corner seal. I'm debating going with sold corners but I think I'll be sticking with stock. Not to sure yet. Opinions are welcome as always.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11603&stc=1&d=1329372248

[TitaniumTT]

Let me get what's in those two boxes(wire and sleeving)!! Lol.

NO!!!!! I actually started making my own wire rack for all that shit... and that's only about 1/2 of what I got. I didn't bring out any of the Tefzel ;)

[FC Zach]

I have found the Starbucks energy drinks to be a little more energyifying.....

New word of the day :)

Good luck with the build, hope to see it at the show and maybe this year I'll actually get to chat with ya.

[rxspeed7]

Hopefully you don't plan on reusing the bearings. Everytime I soak rotors in that stuff it eats and pits the Bearing surfaces.

I am def jelly oF the wire supply. You'd shit yourself if you saw our wire dept at work. Lol.

[FC Zach]

Hopefully you don't plan on reusing the bearings. Everytime I soak rotors in that stuff it eats and pits the Bearing surfaces.

Agree, I've personally seen the aftermath of what has happened from using Purple Power to clean the rotors and not catching before assembly. The motor ran ok for a short period of time till oil pressure was lost.

[rxspeed7]

Yea I hate using/buying new bearings. Esp if they are still good. It's always better to use original bearings than new ones if possible.

Your guys shop looks ficking awesome man!!! Soo much room. Can't wait to see how this turns out!

[C. Ludwig]

3rd on the Purple Power. Don't let bearings or aluminum soak in it. Wear gloves too, unless you want a chemical peel.

[rxspeed7]

Everyone loves that fresh new flesh you get from using that stuff. It's like buying new skin. Lol

[2gslse]

as usual, always pushing the almost impossible timeline which wouldn't be bad if you weren't working on everyone elses crap (RE/FB) you should have posted pics of the trashed plates too.

[WE3RX7]

He was an IT guy and in my experience, no offense to the IT guys reading this, they seem to think that because they deal with computers and cutting edge technology all day long that they can tackle anything.

I can't help but feel somewhat targeted with a statement like that :)

However, who do you think built that awesome Motec Software you enjoy using all day? Wasn't a tuner... although I'm sure a tuner played a big part.


Anyway - as always, I'm looking forward to seeing how this one comes together and it's about time. It's almost as bad as your FD that's been sitting without any attention. :toetap05:


Is there a reason why you DONT want to use solid corner seals? If you don't have enough reason to go against them, I'd use 'em. I don't think they would have held up to that rev count either though....

[TitaniumTT]

New word of the day :)

Good luck with the build, hope to see it at the show and maybe this year I'll actually get to chat with ya.

:rofl: Yeah it is.

Thanks man..... it should be there, I definately will be and yeah, I'd like that. Without the coupe and me going in cognitus, I should be able to meet alot more people this year.

Hopefully you don't plan on reusing the bearings. Everytime I soak rotors in that stuff it eats and pits the Bearing surfaces.

Really? I've soaked them in that stuff before... the stuff at work... and they come out awesome. No pits no nothing.

I am def jelly oF the wire supply. You'd shit yourself if you saw our wire dept at work. Lol.

How so? like good way or bad way?

Agree, I've personally seen the aftermath of what has happened from using Purple Power to clean the rotors and not catching before assembly. The motor ran ok for a short period of time till oil pressure was lost.

Damn.... I'll check 'em out real good, thanks for the tips.

[TitaniumTT]

Yea I hate using/buying new bearings. Esp if they are still good. It's always better to use original bearings than new ones if possible.

Yup yup/

Your guys shop looks ficking awesome man!!! Soo much room. Can't wait to see how this turns out!

Thanks Zach, lots of fun here that's for damn sure.... you're only seeign about 33% of the space we have

3rd on the Purple Power. Don't let bearings or aluminum soak in it. Wear gloves too, unless you want a chemical peel.

Wow... thanks for the tip... it can't be that stuff then.... becuase I've been in it without gloves, no ill effect, the bearings I pulled out looked great... I dunno... I'm all worried now to see what these things will look like when I take them out tonight

And a big thanks to you Chris, you've already helped alot with some of your products!

Everyone loves that fresh new flesh you get from using that stuff. It's like buying new skin. Lol

:smilielol5:

[TitaniumTT]

as usual, always pushing the almost impossible timeline which wouldn't be bad if you weren't working on everyone elses crap (RE/FB) you should have posted pics of the trashed plates too.

:rofl: Yup, I wouldn't be me if I wasn't doing just that ;)
Well, I figure I got 10hrs a day to work on everyone elses stuff and get paid for it. 4 hours to do my own stuff. I've got 300+ hours to get the 'vert done. That's 7 normal weeks.... it shouldn't take that long. The key is the discipline to spend the time EVERY night and one full day off on it. If I can do that, it shouldn't be a problem... but yeah... 62 days to build a car :banghead:

I can't help but feel somewhat targeted with a statement like that :)

However, who do you think built that awesome Motec Software you enjoy using all day? Wasn't a tuner... although I'm sure a tuner played a big part.

Yeah yeah yeah... don't take it personally,... you're one of the few I guess ;)


Anyway - as always, I'm looking forward to seeing how this one comes together and it's about time. It's almost as bad as your FD that's been sitting without any attention. :toetap05:

Yeah, about that... I've had that car for over 2 years now... that will be a full rotisserie build, 20k in parts, full resto-mod THAT car will take me 2-3 years to do at the pace that I'm doing the 'vert :rofl: Once the TTCoupe is back and running, I'll get the FD in my shop and up on the rotisserie and start plugging away. Once it's in primer, the undercarriage is done, and i've got all new bushing, toelinks, etc etc one and the arms are powdercoated, I'll bring her out to PA to start...


Is there a reason why you DONT want to use solid corner seals? If you don't have enough reason to go against them, I'd use 'em. I don't think they would have held up to that rev count either though....

Yes, I am aware of 2. Atkins and RX7 specialties. Atkins have a tremendous break in period and don't have the same compression as the stocks... or so Dave has seen. RX7 Specialties warned us not to use them on used housings, they will wear them tremendously..... sooooo yeah. That seal broke becuase the plate touched. It the plate didn't touch, I didn't overrev it, we wouldn't be talking about it, I'd go back to stock.

[jerd_hambone]

Any project that gets worked on makes me jelly. I have unlimited time, but no where to work unless it's warm.

[FerociousP]

A stock clutch is going in with a stock flyheel. Stock gears and a stock turbo.

oh yeah, there will be a boost trim switch installed so we can go from Mom mode - Wastegate, to Brian mode - as much boost as the stock turbo will handle

In my experience with my stock clutch/disc/flywheel combo and my stock ports/ stock turbo with FMIC and SprintRE.... the stock clutch may not be up to the task of Brian Mode. Once we tuned it on the interstate and the outside temperature got lower than 70deg my clutch slips in 4th. Now that it is winter, it slips in 2nd, and I'm only running about 12-13psi at 5-6k and it bleeds down to about 8-9psi by 7k. Its still drivable, but not under full power.

[TitaniumTT]

Any project that gets worked on makes me jelly. I have unlimited time, but no where to work unless it's warm.

That's a shame. We built an annex off the garage to house the landi. Nothing more than a simple frame and shrink-wrap. Add an 80,000 btu heater and it'll get up to 80* in the winter easy. It rocks. You should do it... do it NAOW!

In my experience with my stock clutch/disc/flywheel combo and my stock ports/ stock turbo with FMIC and SprintRE.... the stock clutch may not be up to the task of Brian Mode. Once we tuned it on the interstate and the outside temperature got lower than 70deg my clutch slips in 4th. Now that it is winter, it slips in 2nd, and I'm only running about 12-13psi at 5-6k and it bleeds down to about 8-9psi by 7k. Its still drivable, but not under full power.

Uh oh. That's unfortuneate. Well, that's something we'll find out on the dyno. How much power are you making at 5, 6, and 7K? What kind of shape was your clutch in?

[FerociousP]

Uh oh. That's unfortuneate. Well, that's something we'll find out on the dyno. How much power are you making at 5, 6, and 7K? What kind of shape was your clutch in?

Clutch was a brand new complete unit from Tennessee Clutch Supply. I ordered it from them as a upgraded pressure plate, but when I put it in the pedal was softer than what was an upgraded clutch on the jspec I'm using. So, I kinda got boned, but the clutch itself is smooth and works great up to peak power. This doesn't speak well for my statement, but the clutch itself was brand new.

I don't know how much power I'm making. I haven't tested it with the Haltech installed and tuned. Right after we got it tuned (in August heat) is when the clutch started slipping, and that wasn't on a dyno. I doubt I'm making judgeIto power :) due to me having stock ports, but the car feels pretty quick. I've got the tune pretty good at 11.2-11.5 AFRs at full load and 17deg @ 10 and 13.5deg at 15psi timing (again, no dyno to try to push higher).

***Before DGRR I plan to swap in my original PP in hopes that the extra clamping force will help. (Don't want to spend too much $$ bc the car will soon be parted)

[djmtsu]

Brian- is that the engine that I found for you? Turned out to be stock huh. Figured for how cheap it was.

Waiting pics of the actual Junkyard Vert itself.

(and your mom :suspect: )

[FC Zach]

Waiting pics of the actual Junkyard Vert itself.

(and your mom :suspect: )

:leaving: :willy_nilly:

[chibikougan]

Want a fancy roll hoop. I may have enough 1038 Dom left to put a bend in. Or double miata style?

Don't melt the bumper! I have not had time to get a bumper to make more covers.


Good work Brian as always!


Also there may not be much progress but I do have a lot of questions in my build thread if ya guys wanna help me out. Sorry....sorry..

[TitaniumTT]

Want a fancy roll hoop. I may have enough 1038 Dom left to put a bend in. Or double miata style?

Don't melt the bumper! I have not had time to get a bumper to make more covers.


Good work Brian as always!


Also there may not be much progress but I do have a lot of questions in my build thread if ya guys wanna help me out. Sorry....sorry..

Thanks man... shit dude, asl away..

Clutch was a brand new complete unit from Tennessee Clutch Supply. I ordered it from them as a upgraded pressure plate, but when I put it in the pedal was softer than what was an upgraded clutch on the jspec I'm using. So, I kinda got boned, but the clutch itself is smooth and works great up to peak power. This doesn't speak well for my statement, but the clutch itself was brand new.

Hmmmm, I think you may have gotten a shit PP.... I dunno though. I'd be curious what happens with a daiken Mazda deal...

I don't know how much power I'm making. I haven't tested it with the Haltech installed and tuned. Right after we got it tuned (in August heat) is when the clutch started slipping, and that wasn't on a dyno. I doubt I'm making judgeIto power :) due to me having stock ports, but the car feels pretty quick.

Dude... stock ports can yield insane numbers. Highest I've hear of was 603, I've personally seen over 500 on stock ports. So yeah... don't put to much stock in mystical ports. Besides, you can increase flow alot without changine timing. This is what I plan on. I want to hit or beat 280rwhp with the stock turbo.

I've got the tune pretty good at 11.2-11.5 AFRs at full load and 17deg @ 10 and 13.5deg at 15psi timing (again, no dyno to try to push higher).

BRING THAT SHIT UP HERE! I'll squeeze some more power out on the dyno. FWIW I run 19* @ 17psi and 11.7-12.0 afr's ;) But that's on the Motec...

***Before DGRR I plan to swap in my original PP in hopes that the extra clamping force will help. (Don't want to spend too much $$ bc the car will soon be parted)

What? Like parted out? Why?

Brian- is that the engine that I found for you? Turned out to be stock huh. Figured for how cheap it was.

I think it may have been. Complete longblock for like $1200?

Waiting pics of the actual Junkyard Vert itself.

Prob when it gets in the shop, it's snowing right now..

(and your mom :suspect: )

:leaving: :willy_nilly:

That... what's wrong with you DJ? :rofl:

[jerd_hambone]

That's a shame. We built an annex off the garage to house the landi. Nothing more than a simple frame and shrink-wrap. Add an 80,000 btu heater and it'll get up to 80* in the winter easy. It rocks. You should do it... do it NAOW!

Hm.... I may do that very soon, but use some old tin we have laying around. It will save me from having to sell my roller before I leave for schoolin. I don't want it sitting around in the yard, growin weeds and sinking into oblivion haha.

[FerociousP]

Dude... stock ports can yield insane numbers. Highest I've hear of was 603, I've personally seen over 500 on stock ports. So yeah... don't put to much stock in mystical ports. Besides, you can increase flow alot without changine timing. This is what I plan on. I want to hit or beat 280rwhp with the stock turbo.



You might have to tell me some of these mystic ways... but first I need a PP that won't slip.

BRING THAT SHIT UP HERE! I'll squeeze some more power out on the dyno. FWIW I run 19* @ 17psi and 11.7-12.0 afr's ;) But that's on the Motec...

Wow, i've been scared to pump up the timing too much without a dyno.. maybe I can at least do 20@10 and 15@15?

Damn this slipping PP is sure holding me back!!

What? Like parted out? Why?


To pay for and cannibalize parts for my truck project. Also, I don't want to HAVE to park my car in a garage to keep it dry inside. Soooooo, it will enjoy one more DGRR (this time with coilovers) and then the motor and trans (gearbox at least) and ecu will start to go into the truck.

Also, interesting note since you love testing things! We have a PP tester here at work that measures the clamping force. So far i've measured a used 100k rx8 PP (800lbs), and my unknown bass boat blue painted jdm t2 PP (920lbs). When I get some spare time I'll test brand new off the shelf ones and any other upgraded ones I can get my hands on. I'll also be testing my current shitty PP to see how it compares to stock, but that won't happen for a while.

[djmtsu]

That... what's wrong with you DJ? :rofl:

What's right is a better question.

[TitaniumTT]

Hm.... I may do that very soon, but use some old tin we have laying around. It will save me from having to sell my roller before I leave for schoolin. I don't want it sitting around in the yard, growin weeds and sinking into oblivion haha.

Definately... I hate seeing projects abandoned.

You might have to tell me some of these mystic ways... but first I need a PP that won't slip.

There's nothing mystical or secret about it really ;)

Wow, i've been scared to pump up the timing too much without a dyno.. maybe I can at least do 20@10 and 15@15?

Dyno won't tell you the whole story... you really need EGT's and EMAP as well... EGT's are more important though. Stock timing on the FD was something like 20* @ 1Bar. But like I said.... you really do need a dyno and an EGT datalogs...

Damn this slipping PP is sure holding me back!!

Yeah, it really sounds like it dude... AFR's are a touch rich as well... I'd run 12:1 @~7-8lbs... well... are you using the stock CAS? That will effect your timing as well....

To pay for and cannibalize parts for my truck project. Also, I don't want to HAVE to park my car in a garage to keep it dry inside. Soooooo, it will enjoy one more DGRR (this time with coilovers) and then the motor and trans (gearbox at least) and ecu will start to go into the truck.

LAME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Also, interesting note since you love testing things! We have a PP tester here at work that measures the clamping force. So far i've measured a used 100k rx8 PP (800lbs), and my unknown bass boat blue painted jdm t2 PP (920lbs). When I get some spare time I'll test brand new off the shelf ones and any other upgraded ones I can get my hands on. I'll also be testing my current shitty PP to see how it compares to stock, but that won't happen for a while.

That would be badass.... I'd like to see that...

What's right is a better question.

Sure as shit would be a shorter list :rofl:

So if you did find this engine DJ... fuck you. I pulled the rotors out of the cleaning solution. if it was purple power... it didn't touch the bearings after a 24 hr soak.... regardless, the rear rotor at some point in it's life ingested a bolt and dented the shit out of the rotor.... KNOW YOUR ENGINE BUILDER!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sooooo now I'm looking at the coupes old rotors and counterweights... but I would need an aftermkt flywheel :banghead: Goes against what I wanted to do with the car so I'll have to sleep on it.

Tonights list WAS going to be clean the rotors and all the seals but that's going to hold off until I decide what to do. That and someone who likes crazy deadlines more than me is on his way out here right now from Queens to pick up some parts that I haven't welded yet :rofl: So I'm going to hop on that, then I'll continue on with cleaning the irons and getting them ready to be ported.... I'll get some pics of the rotor up before the night is out.... pissed am I..... fuckers 1 day in and already a setback. Oh well..... it's not like there isn't enough still to do :smilielol5:

[djmtsu]

So if you did find this engine DJ... fuck you.

Hey, I found it, you bought it!

So much hate!

:squint:

[Raksj04]

I have a question. Could you dulite the puple power? If so that may prevent the bearing from being pitted however I am not familar with this product.

Also "Sir admin". does this mean you are not going to be bring your custom badass trailer to DGRR?

[hades]

why FD coolers?

[beefhole]

FWIW I used a big brass brush wheel to clean my rotors. Brass is perfectly safe on iron parts. MEGA CLEAN ROTORS!!!! For the tiny spots and edges, I used a Dremel with the paint stripping bits. They are kind of like hard sponge, and come in different colors. Finally, for grooves and other crevices, I used carb cleaner and old seals.

It's somewhat therapeutic cleaning rotors...

PS
Don't buy into the myth that using a brush will wear the cadmium coating on the rotor. That was temporary for a long time ago when the rotors were first made and they sat on shelves... Some people don't seem to realize cadmium has a lower melting point than lead. The coating is long gone by now.

[TitaniumTT]

Hey, I found it, you bought it!

So much hate!

:squint:

You ain't seen nothing yet!!!!

I have a question. Could you dulite the puple power? If so that may prevent the bearing from being pitted however I am not familar with this product.

Also "Sir admin". does this mean you are not going to be bring your custom badass trailer to DGRR?

The trailer will bolt to any FC, I just have to wire it up. So yes, if I get it tagged, then I will be bringing it. it passed the inspection, I just need to get to the DMV which is about 150 miles away...

why FD coolers?

Becuase i am a firm believer in every heat exchanger having it's own source of fresh air. It's why my coolant temps stay ~180 on the track, and my AIT's stay damn near ambient. I'll be using a fluidyne rad that I'm going to make into a double pass, but I need to fit the exchanger for the W2A intercooling infront of it. up higher which is why the flyidyne will be a double pass. If I stuck with an FC oil cooler, there would be a wall of heat exchangers between the nose of the car and the rad..... no bueno.

[TitaniumTT]

FWIW I used a big brass brush wheel to clean my rotors. Brass is perfectly safe on iron parts. MEGA CLEAN ROTORS!!!! For the tiny spots and edges, I used a Dremel with the paint stripping bits. They are kind of like hard sponge, and come in different colors. Finally, for grooves and other crevices, I used carb cleaner and old seals.

It's somewhat therapeutic cleaning rotors...

Yes, yes it is... I use nothing but old seals and a brass brush and lots of carb clean..

I usually do it with the radio cranked, but tonight I had the Ipod on... if anyone saw me it would've been embarassing... I was actually singing along :rofl:

Official update: 62 days left and not much done... Colin came by to colelct his parts so I spent a fair amount of time welding tonight, and then a fair amount of time on the phone... I did start cleaning the rotors and I did start working on the front iron... taking teh paint off. Luckily for me I put in so much time this week @ work, I'll be clocking out early and will have probably 6-8 hrs tomorrow night. Plan is to decide which rotors to use, finish cleaning up the center iron, port all three and tape them off for paint on saturday... then build build build on Sunday... so we'll see what happens.

Off to play a quick game of chess then back to the parts washer .... then there's a shower with my name all over it

[WE3RX7]

What seals are you using in the rebuild? Were any reusable in that motor that you plan to keep in it (IE: side seals, corner seals, etc)

GL man - word down this way is snow on Sunday so you all are hosed :)

[djmtsu]

You ain't seen nothing yet!!!!


I am sure you'll have plenty of time to hate all over my RX-8 at DGRR.

I'll be sure to make a bed of rose petals for you and Paul to lay in while admiring your matching turbo verts. :grouphug:

[hades]

You ain't seen nothing yet!!!!



The trailer will bolt to any FC, I just have to wire it up. So yes, if I get it tagged, then I will be bringing it. it passed the inspection, I just need to get to the DMV which is about 150 miles away...



Becuase i am a firm believer in every heat exchanger having it's own source of fresh air. It's why my coolant temps stay ~180 on the track, and my AIT's stay damn near ambient. I'll be using a fluidyne rad that I'm going to make into a double pass, but I need to fit the exchanger for the W2A intercooling infront of it. up higher which is why the flyidyne will be a double pass. If I stuck with an FC oil cooler, there would be a wall of heat exchangers between the nose of the car and the rad..... no bueno.

Why not other TDI coolers? They are the parent company of Fluidyne. I have worked with them on a few big projects. Pm me if you want the details.

[Ian]

How do you find so much time to post and work on your car? Post pic too :) See you at the DGRR.

[TitaniumTT]

What seals are you using in the rebuild? Were any reusable in that motor that you plan to keep in it (IE: side seals, corner seals, etc)

Stock 2-piece Apex Seals & Springs - Useable and will reuse
Stock Side seals and springs - Useable and will re-use
Stock Corner seals - Meh... they look ok at best. I'll probably snatch those from my coupe rotors
Oil Control rings and O-rings. Looked awesome and the rings feel brandy new. Re-using those.

I decided that I'm going to rock some S4 N/A rotors becuase I want to keep the stock S4 flywheel. The counterweights are the same so the engine will be balanced. Tomorrow Chris (our badass engine builder) and I are going to go through the stock of rotors we have and find the best looking ones. Not caring about bearings because we have a damn nice set of bearings waiting in the freezer we can press in if we need to. I have brand new main bearings in the fridge waiting to be pressed in.

So tomorrow I need to find rotors and get the bearings dealt with. I also need to press in the main bearings. Mic out the e-shaft. Go through about 50 side seals and hope I can find 12 that get me to min Mazda spec... If not I have 14 new ones sitting in a box that were bought for the coupe, I can snag those if need be because that engine ain't going back together soon and order new ones when need be. Paint the steels and maybe repaint the housings/front cover. Need to see how the color scheme looks after the steels are painted. Fun times ahead for tomorrow!

GL man - word down this way is snow on Sunday so you all are hosed :)

Whatchu talkin' bout man? We ain't getting snow, rain and maybe 1"

I am sure you'll have plenty of time to hate all over my RX-8 at DGRR.

Psh... I'll do something all over the hood of your 8 :rofl:

I'll be sure to make a bed of rose petals for you and Paul to lay in while admiring your matching turbo verts. :grouphug:

Yeah, our 'verts don't match.... mine will be together in a year ;)

[TitaniumTT]

Why not other TDI coolers? They are the parent company of Fluidyne. I have worked with them on a few big projects. Pm me if you want the details.

Hmmmmm. shoot me a PM, I'm curious what you're talking about.

Another benefit of FD coolers, they'er here and they're practically free ;)

How do you find so much time to post and work on your car? Post pic too :) See you at the DGRR.

I live off of a carefully measured amount of RedBull, coffee, Starbucks energy drinks, zingers and Omelettes... and it's time for my omelette :rofl:

And I have a strict, "I'll sleep when I'm dead" attitude.

It's just dicipline. Theres a solid 15 hours in a day that are useable.

I will post some pics tomorrow. Right now I do need to eat and sleep, work tomorrow and the gf is coming up, need to be rested.

[TitaniumTT]

Official update from tonight though, with 61 days left. Got the plates fully cleaned and prepped. Got the plates ported and got my nipples tapped in. Also re-tapped off the housings and front cover incase I do decide to re-paint them I can do it tomorrow. I didn't get EVERYTHING done that I wanted to, but that's ok, tomorrow.... err today rather, is another day.

[IH8DSM]

Yea I trashed a set of bearings because of purple power, it attacks the coating or absorbs into the bearing and just destorys the bearing less then a 1000 miles on the motor siezed it.


End of story purple power can suck a whole bag of dicks.

Im also curious why your not using solid corners is that super secret titanium red bull fueled knowledge

[TitaniumTT]

Wow.... I dunno what the eff we're using, but it can't be purple power. We've never had a motor come back so short like that. I pulled them out, they look and feel fine, the only soaked for like 24 hrs, but Chris has said some of the really nasty ones he's let soak for 3 days and the carbon just falls off.

I'm wondering if it isn't shit that's getting caught in the rotors and infecting the oil system?

Atkins don't seal all that great from the start and CAN have starting issues. The ones from RX7 specialties are supposed to be VERY tough on plates.

The more I think about the more I think I'm just going to rock stockers. The only reason they broke was because I banged the plates. The rotors that go in will be clearanced so hopefully this doesn't happen again. Basically the engien that I build next for the coupe will be rockin' a super DUPER secret turbo if the BNR's don't at least get back what I made stock. So I'm building that engine in anticipation of over 500wheel. Rotors will be balanced, lightened, and clearanced so touching plates shouldn't happen and the need for soild corners shouldn't exist.

[Raksj04]

I think the guy who are having problems with purple power didn't dilute it. The MSDS says it has Complete Solubility in Water. I am thinking some people have been using it straight up, which may lead to the pitting.

[RX SE7EN]

Just found out that the guy you bought the block from swapped all the matching accessories off before he sold it to you hahahaha

http://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?albumid=4497&pictureid=41469


(j/k, just a random pic i found, titled "engine swap for DGRR")

[TitaniumTT]

Just found out that the guy you bought the block from swapped all the matching accessories off before he sold it to you hahahaha

http://www..php?albumid=4497&pictureid=41469


(j/k, just a random pic i found, titled "engine swap for DGRR")

WOW!!!!! Thankfully I didn't get those mani's... that shit looks like it's on there THICK! gross....

[TitaniumTT]

Project Junkyard Turbo 'Vert continues to move along at a snails pace... mainly becuase I got held up on the dyno till 7 or so tonight, and I'm still trying to get some shit welded up for a different and believe it or not more time sensitive project.

So.... with 58 days left... here's what we've got accomplished.... NOT MUCH!

The car did get a bath and get moved inside... as you requested DJ, here are some pics of the beaut inside.

I was going to compound the car down to get a really good idea of the body work that needs to be done, but there are more pressing matters at hand than spending a few hours with a buffing wheel.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11625&stc=1&d=1329887427

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11626&stc=1&d=1329887427

The interior is in great shape :rofl:

For some reason, I can't remember why, I pulled the steering whell off the car. We have a fork truck here that we use to tow cars around with... well, Kyle was running at a high rate of speed and I was steering.... and then the steering wheel was in my lap while I was aimed at a moving fan dropping a car off :smilielol5: Almost added a few more things to the todo list for this project.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11627&stc=1&d=1329887427


But the body is in really good condition. Only a few spots of rust and overall a good solid car. She should roll nicely when all is done.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11628&stc=1&d=1329887427

And of course the Atihun hood that I picked up about 2 yrs ago. As odd as it is, I will have 3 RX7's, 2 FC's and 1 FD, all with the same basic aftermkt hood. The one on the coupe that I built from a stock AL hood. This Atihun hood... and a few months ago, maybe a yr, who knows, I picked up a carbon Fibre Mazdaseed hood for the FD. Basically the Atihun guys took the vent from the FD MazdaSpeed hood and molded it onto an FC hood. Then used that as a plug to build this hood. It's by far my favorite aftermkt hood.... second to the one I built of course :rofl:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11629&stc=1&d=1329887427

Regardless, there is some body work in this cars future before DGRR.... so if anyone wants to help, we'll be spraypainting at the lodge on Friday night, hoping it dries before Sat morning :lol:

[TitaniumTT]

So I planned to have the engine built over the weekend, a few problems came up with that... my girlfriend was in town and believe it or not, I would've rather spent the better part of sunday and Monday with her than here at the shop. There was also some time lost in sourcing new rotors, figuring out what to do with bearings, etc etc. Came into work on Sunday ready to rock and roll clearancing the rotors and it all went to hell. I had literally 125 side seals to choose from and I had to dig into the stash I had bought for my car for 2 of them :banghead: Oh well, not like I need them anytime soon and I always order 14 so I can screw 2 of them up and not worry.

Regardless, that took a lot of time up on Sunday and a few people dropped by the shop which ate up more time and we all know how that goes. I did manage to get the rotors all set and clearanced though. They are ready to rock and roll. The other thing that screwed me, I actually came into work on Monday to build the engine, but when I opened my MazdaComp box and started sorting things out, I quickly found that they didn't send the inner coolant seals in the same box. They arrived on Monday after I had already left for PA... so they are sitting in CT right now. Our engine builder used the last set maybe 2 days prior. Oh well. It's not like there isn't a bunch of other shit that needs to get done :rofl:

Here you can see the organization, the old rotors on the left, look at the left most rotor... yeah, someone reused that. It's mate isn't much better. I would've thrown both those out. So, if anyone wants some S4 TII rotors, $50 each. Came out of an engine that did >400wheel supposedly.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11630&stc=1&d=1329887969

On the right you can see the rotors that I plan on using. I was kinda stuck here since I'm pretty deadset on using the stock flywheel. So my only choice was S4 n/a rotors. Actually not a bad choice at all given what the car will be used for. So yeah, here's to at least 3 hi-comp turbo motors I'll be tuning in 1 year, 2 of which I'm building myself.... kewl.

I have started working on the mani's, stripping them down and welding shit shut, welding shit on, and things of that nature. Plan now is get as much of the mani's prepped as possible in the next two days. I'm leaving right from work on Friday to go back to CT via NY to spend a night with my girl, pick up my seals over the weekend, Do some work on the never ending landi project, and a little fab on my car, then leave CT Monday morning for work on Monday. Build the engine Monday night pretty much complete, save probably the UIM and the TB.

Then pull the left fender and the dash, get the engine in and start on the wiring. The wiring willl definately take some time. I have to go back to CT on 3/4, but I have that Monday off.... there will be a lot of wiring done that day.... hopefully.

I'd like to get the engine in the car with 1/2 of the W2A intercooler done, the bottom half. So we can close the hood and see what kind of clearance I have to work the top. Should be really interesting..... anywho... as usual I'm like 5 steps ahead of myself.

[2gslse]

the junkyard you shop at has better crapola than any I go to.

ps... I'll call on my way home tomorrow

[TitaniumTT]

:rofl: yeah, this was someones pride and joy for many years.... garage kept until the day I got :(

Kewl... I'll keep my ears open for ya. If I miss it, I'll call ya back asap

[My5ABaby]

Back in November @ a PCA event I missed a shift @ 143 mph down the front straight and over-revved the hell out of the engine.
My Haltech would have prevented that...


:rofl:

[TitaniumTT]

If by not allowing the car to make enough power to get to that speed.... then yes, it would've :rofl: ;)

By missed shift I mean was sitting @ 8k in 5th, went for 6th, missed and hit fourth. Not like I aimed for 6th, stayed in neutral, dropped clutch and hammereed gas.... oh no... this was way stupider

[My5ABaby]

If by not allowing the car to make enough power to get to that speed.... then yes, it would've :rofl: ;)

By missed shift I mean was sitting @ 8k in 5th, went for 6th, missed and hit fourth. Not like I aimed for 6th, stayed in neutral, dropped clutch and hammereed gas.... oh no... this was way stupider

Haltechs have a setting that ensures I don't miss shifts. It was first on the e6k. :suspect:

[MaczPayne]

I want the candy canes

[IH8DSM]

you need some black interior sir haha

missing shifts rather the motor go instead of the clutch.

i also like your organization and layout of your rotors, i've built a couple motors but i've never seen candy canes go in there must be a turbo thing:rofl:

[hades]

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11625&stc=1&d=1329887427

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11626&stc=1&d=1329887427


http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11628&stc=1&d=1329887427


http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11629&stc=1&d=1329887427

So this is my chariot for DGRR :driving:

[WE3RX7]

We want to see some of the holy wiring going on with that '85 in the background ;)


On a lighter note, I broke an oil control ring today... wasn't paying attention and snapped it.. just sharing in the setbacks :)

[TitaniumTT]

Haltechs have a setting that ensures I don't miss shifts. It was first on the e6k. :suspect:

Yeah.... it's called not being able to accelerate hard enough to get enough adrenaline pumping ooorrrr being able to make enough power to get into 5th or 4th gear down the front straight....

I want the candy canes

:smilelol5:

[TitaniumTT]

you need some black interior sir haha

Yes.... yes I do.... not sure what I'm going to do about it all... I MAY get a replacement carpet for like $300.... I dunno... we'll see if it cleans up any better than what it is.

missing shifts rather the motor go instead of the clutch.

I'd rather none :smilielol5:

i also like your organization and layout of your rotors, i've built a couple motors but i've never seen candy canes go in there must be a turbo thing:rofl:

It's a super secret turbo sealant secret :suspect:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11625&stc=1&d=1329887427

So this is my chariot for DGRR :driving:

Yup yup.... We'll have it done. We're trying to get the Vielside behind it down there, and the FB behind that will be done... hopefully the owner brings that instead of his FD... or the 8 he's trying to sell :suspect:

We want to see some of the holy wiring going on with that '85 in the background ;)

I'm AAAAALLLLLMMMMMOOOOOSSSSSTTTTT done with the engine harness.... when it's done, I'll get a few pics up... and of course I'll be documenting the wiring of the 'vert.


On a lighter note, I broke an oil control ring today... wasn't paying attention and snapped it.. just sharing in the setbacks :)

huh? How do you do that?

[WE3RX7]

I playing with an o-ring in the tray and set it into the rotor without the spring under it... not assembling just seeing how well it fit. If you've never put the tray in with no spring underneath, its a PITA to get it back out.. had it 70% lifted out and it just snapped...

[TitaniumTT]

Ouch... that sucks.... I've had issues getting corner seals out without springs under them.. I just gave up... I always put a spring under it whenever I clearance rotors now.

[TitaniumTT]

Been a few days since an update so I figure it's about time. Got slammed this week woth work work so not much has been done... sadly... I still have yet to build the engine because, well, all 4 rotary stands at the shop are in use :rofl: No seriously... 3 engines waiting to go in and the fourth is in the engine room getting torn down......

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11647&stc=1&d=1330576894

It's not like there is a shortage of shit to do on the car however, so tonight Chris stayed late with me to start tearing the car apart for the wiring and general cleaning of the front half of the car. Here's what we started with

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11648&stc=1&d=1330576894

Yeah... what do you want, she sat outside for 18 months. Kyle started cleaning up the pass side and it looks like everything will come back pretty nicely... I'm pleased with that. But... to build something like this... first it all needs to come apart... damnit. At least that's the way I do it when I install an ECU on my schedule. It just makes it so much easier and cleaner to pull out everything that isn't being used, and go from there. Since I plan on doing the same wire hiding thing that I did on my car, except cleaner becuase there won't be nearly the same amount of electronic trickery, I need to get at the front harness. I'm going to try to leave it in the car this time though, because it is a bitch getting that harness through the firewall and seated properly. Plus this car is retaining the power windows, power doors, power mirrors that it had. In my car I was adding the PW and PDL's so it was as totally different story. So after everything was taken out and the harness removed from the front half, this is what's left over that needs to be cleaned.... yeah....

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11649&stc=1&d=1330576894

At anyrate, there are a handfull of wires that need to go, and a few that need to be added. I plan on using the A/C Fan relay to power the electric fan, and I'm not sure if I want the pump for the w2a intercooler to just be key on, or have it's own relay. I'm thinking relay but I need to dive into the haltech software and see if I have the outputs left over... I think I do. The wires that are leaving the harness are all the check connectors, the air-bypass relay, the drivers washer controls, all the coil wires, the CAS wires and a few of the tach leads.

The wires moving are going to be the low oil level, stock temp and pressure senders for the stock gauges, the neutral switch and the reverse switch. Those are moving over to the engine harness. Soooooo it's probably not the easiest, but it's definitely the cleanest.... pull the dash and run the wires over to where they belong. I've got access to a few other harnesses, so I'm hoping that all the wires that I need to remove and relocate I can pull out of the other harness.... so all the wire colors will remain the same, even if they're not in the same connector. That's the way i like to do it anyway.

This entire harness, the engine harness is garbage and will be pitched. Battery is getting relocated so no need for any of the big wires. All the others are either being removed totally or relocated.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11650&stc=1&d=1330576894

Here's the front harness.... this can be thinned out considerable. Some wires shortened, and some wires added. The only place the harness will be seen is where it exits the firewall and dives into the wheel well. The PS harness will remain, but that's it. And the fuse bvox will be relocated to where the trailing coil once lived.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11651&stc=1&d=1330576894

Goal is to have the car totally wired by the end of next weekend. Then it's just the engine harness and the mechanical side of things..... not too much time left but I'm pretty sure I've got enough as long as I don't have any huge part delays.... those could kill the whole thing.

Oh... and if anyone knows of or has an S5 TII throttle body... I'm looking for one. Don't need the TPS, found one of those, but I do need the throttle body itself.

[TitaniumTT]

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm..... so building a car in short order means taking it apart first??????

:rofl:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11652&stc=1&d=1330577586

Yeah.... by the end of tomorrow night that interior will be stripped clean and the only thing remaining will be a lightly held front harness with a bunch of wires being pulled out and tossed in the garbage..... ugh... what have I gotten myself into. The girlfriend is already getting in a state.... I can't wait till the first 3 weeks of April :rofl:

[rxspeed7]

Screw engine stands! I hate em. Have a nice work bench we assemble our motors on then pick em up off the table with the hoist and put em in.

Car is looking good though. It's always nice to start off with a good un-molested car.

[TitaniumTT]

I'm too old for that shit..... and you wonder why your back is all eff'ed up :rofl:

[Duffman692002]

Love this thread, makes me wanna get back on the wire tuck on the ol fb but then I remember how much I hate doing it... One of these days...

Looking forward to seeing it at Deals. :icon_tup:

[rxspeed7]

ehhh... its too nice to be able to sit down and build motors. It hurts my back more to stand over a engine stand and assemble a motor.

[WE3RX7]

I'm betting at least a LITTLE respray will take place in that engine bay.. the lower rails never survive brake fluid leaks and batter acid over the course of 20 years...

[djmtsu]

Brian doesn't reply to my texts anymore.


I must have made him sad.
























































Oh, that's right. He has another girlfriend now.

[Prodigy]

Even with a 'girlfriend' he should have enough skill to text with the other hand...

(sorry Brian it was just too easy :P )



J.

[TitaniumTT]

Har har...... har har..... She's gonna get more and more pissed at me until DGRR comes... I can tell :lol:

[TitaniumTT]

Soooooooooooooo update................

I'm still taking shit OUT of the car.... although today was very productive... about 9 hours of wiring was had and in that time I got everything stripped out that wasn't being used.... think about all the wiring for the stock headrest speakers, the volume controls, the amp controls..... all that jazz is now gone.

I also started stripping back the front harness to take out things that aren't being used, check connectors, coil triggers, CAS wiring, all that shit is out.

I also managed to get all the wires lengthened to where they need to be and then some for the Helltech.

The goal here is to have as little wiring seen as possible. There isn't nearly the electronic trickery that I have in the coupe, and 1/2 the turbo's and 1/4 of the intercooler. So the goal here is CLEAN.

For those of you who know the FC wiring, you know that there are three main harnesses that wrap and contort all over the engine and the engine bay.

There is the Emissions Harness which is basically the harness that controls the engine. It hits the shock tower then head over to the engine before branching out to the AFM and the mixture adjust, and the boost gauge and all that crap.... that's all gone now.

Then there is the Engine Harness. The harness connects to the front harness and hits the Alt, the CAS, oil level etc etc etc.... That is now GONE

Then there is the front harness... pics up the Engine harness and feeds the meters, the reverse lights and the ECU for the over the top switch and the neutral switch and the subzero switch and the oil level. Then it wraps around the front of the car in a very visible way and feeds all the turn signals and what not.... this is getting stripped down to the bar minimum and hidden behind the fender and behind the front bumper.

Yes, it is alot of work and it's best to do it if you have a spare harness to butcher wires from so you're not changing colors 2x in the harness. I hate butt-splices inside harnesses anyway, but changing colors just makes it a total PITA to troubleshoot crap.

So yeah.... after 9 hours of horsing around with the wiring... here's where I'm at. A few more hours and it should be done and back where everything needs to be.

The other benefit of doing it this way is everything is plug and play. Ever wire something, then go to take something else out, and you realize that you need to cut your wires to remove it? Yeah, I learned that lesson a LONG time ago ;) After everything is wired.... it will take an hour to get the interior back together. I like that. AND most of the stock wires are retaining thier color right up to the connector that runs to the PS2000 making troubleshooting even easier.

Yes, I am an ass about my wiring.... but it has served me well so piss off.

Goal for next sunday night is to have the front harness done and tucked away where it needs to be with all the additional wires run. I usually run all new wires for things... but since time is short, I decided to re-task some existing wires that were already run.

I need a 0v and return for the intercoolers radiator temp.
Trigger for the intercoolers radiator fans
Trigger for the rad fan
Trigger for the intercoolers rad pump... although I'm thinking this will just be hooked up to a key on relay. When you turn the key on, it pumps, but shuts off when cranking. B/Y wire if anyone is interested. B/W is acc, on, and start ;)

Also want to have the main power and grounds run and the PS2000 pretty much wired to the chassis. Alot of this will depend on whether or not I get all the parts in that I require. We shall see.

Soooo yeah... actually an early night for me. 9-10 hrs of wiring and my eyes hurt. Time for food, shower, and sleep.... but first... pics....

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11656&stc=1&d=1330996288

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11657&stc=1&d=1330996288

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11658&stc=1&d=1330996288

[Duffman692002]

Month and a half left till DGRR, no way it'll be done.

[WE3RX7]

Are you posting the same pics in two threads?


Shame....



BTW, still looks dirty :)


Tick tock...

[rxspeed7]

Are you posting the same pics in two threads?


Shame....



BTW, still looks dirty :)


Tick tock...

I know, I expected more outta him than that.....

[TitaniumTT]

Month and a half left till DGRR, no way it'll be done.

There's a bet going at work; You want in on some of this action? Or should we just go back to y'all get to wash my car and my truck.......

Are you posting the same pics in two threads?

Yes

Shame....

Why, It's funny...

BTW, still looks dirty :)

Yup... more important things to do than clean ;)

Tick tock...

Don't I know it

I know, I expected more outta him than that.....

psssssssshhhhhhhhhhh.... at least my sig is accurate ;)

[rxspeed7]

how is mine inaccurate? I have everything on my car in it....

[TitaniumTT]

Really? Ecu's wired up? ;)

[rxspeed7]

it may not be wired up.... soo how's your fc running then... lol

[rxspeed7]

Haha Thats what I thought! Oh btw are you still running the six speed in your car?

[TitaniumTT]

it may not be wired up.... soo how's your fc running then... lol

Touche.......

Haha Thats what I thought! Oh btw are you still running the six speed in your car?

When it was last together, yes.....

[RX SE7EN]

I bet you won't add your FD to your Deals Gap to do list haha.

[2gslse]

Tic - Toc...

pretty quiet around here.

[Duffman692002]

Prolly realized it was a lost cause and is working on a way to 'accidentally' miss DGRR.

[TitaniumTT]

I bet you won't add your FD to your Deals Gap to do list haha.

:smilielol5: Not for this year.... or next year.... maybe the year after that :rofl:

Prolly realized it was a lost cause and is working on a way to 'accidentally' miss DGRR.

HA!!!!!!!! I won't give up untill Friday the day before @ 8pm.... I'll bring more rotaries than you're bitch ass.... not like last year when I brought 80* the hp. ;)

Tic - Toc...

pretty quiet around here.

Yeah, it was... didn't touch the car since Monday, spent a good deal of time today on her though. Girlfriends are more important than cars, and she required my attention this week. Sooooooooooooo today and tomorrow are 'vert, and next Monday as well. Should br pretty far along by then actually..... especially since I don't have a prissy little attention whore FC coupe taking up all my time :lol:

[WE3RX7]

Is there a VMIC'd FB on your "done" list yet??

[TitaniumTT]

:rofl: No.... there still isn't a pump here yet. We're done waiting though, she comes back into my world on Tuesday. Finish the wiring, finish the plumbing, start welding bungs on, wait for parts.

[budfc3s]

so i guess we are going to have to pull some long nights soon and get this car done....

[TitaniumTT]

Yeah...... I didn't leave till about 6:30 this morning and I'm heading in now...... wiring is the worst-time-consming wise) and its about done.

[2gslse]

:rofl: No.... there still isn't a pump here yet. We're done waiting though, she comes back into my world on Tuesday. Finish the wiring, finish the plumbing, start welding bungs on, wait for parts.

This makes me sad,happy and sad again.

[TitaniumTT]

Yup. Lets put it this way, I had to order an EGT amp from EGT.com I didn't want to wait a month for her to do it, So I bought 2 SS 1/8" npt bungs on my dime just to get them here in a timely fashion. So the next time the turbo/mani goes on, it's a permanent thing ;)
Same for the UIM. The whole engine will be done, bolted up, ready to fire sans VMIC and fuel pump by the end of the week

More than I can say for my car :rofl: Hopefully by the end next Monday, next day off after today, I'll have the car wired and an engine built, might not have everything on the engine, but it should be built.

Alright kiddies.... I'm off to wire up a helltech

[2gslse]

Let me know what I owe you for the bungs when I come up next time. Sue really needs to just get out of the way and let the men handle ordering and talking cars/parts it would streamline the entire process.

[TitaniumTT]

Whatever man, buy me a beer or something, they were like $6/es or something...

Edit - yeah, they were :rofl:
http://www.exhaustgas.com/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=265&DepartmentID=1&CategoryID=57&RepID=&BasketID=

And yeah.... she does :banghead:

[FerociousP]

wiring pics please.... i'm curious.

[2gslse]

Whatever man, buy me a beer or something, they were like $6/es or something...

Edit - yeah, they were :rofl:
http://www.exhaustgas.com/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=265&DepartmentID=1&CategoryID=57&RepID=&BasketID=

And yeah.... she does :banghead:


Hell, I prob already owe you a beer or 2.

wiring pics please.... i'm curious.

Mine or TT's??
I'll try to post pics when its all done or Brian can do it while the manifold is off still.

[FerociousP]

Mine or TT's??
I'll try to post pics when its all done or Brian can do it while the manifold is off still.

Both!

[TitaniumTT]

wiring pics please.... i'm curious.

Coming up.

Hell, I prob already owe you a beer or 2.



Mine or TT's??
I'll try to post pics when its all done or Brian can do it while the manifold is off still.

:rofl: No worries.

Car is coming back in tomorrow. I'll snap a few. First up is the wiring and plumbing. Should have it all done tomorrow if I can concentrate.

[TitaniumTT]

Update..... wiring is more than 70% done. Everything has been pulled out of the Emmisions harness and re-routed. Moved the Front Harness and re-tasked about a dozen wires. All the check connectors are gone except for the one for the convertible top. A bunch of wires have been retasked and even a few harnesses for that matter.
Plan is to use the factory AC harness to control the rad fan relay.
I'll be using the by-pass air relay to trigger the w2a intercooler's waterpump, and then adding one relay to control the fan relay for that rad. All told I'll have 3 fans in the front of the car. 2 for the w2a intercooler. Thing is 27"x7"x2" and I've got a great place in mind for it. It actually should be here tomorrow but won't be getting in the car for a few days.... hopefully.

Anywho... here are some fancy wiring pics
and yes.... I'm still taking shit OFF the car :willy_nilly:

Front of the car. You can see where the harness os now running. Also off on the left side of the car are a while bunch of wires hanging loose. These are the re-tasked wires for various sensors and triggers and what not.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11677&stc=1&d=1331598813

On my coupe the Front harness comes out and goes straight down. I couldn't do that with the 'vert becuase of all the extra fricken bracing that they have in place. So instead ot went to the left and into the fender support area

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11678&stc=1&d=1331598813

In that hollow void is a brace. I didn't want to do this on the coupe but I didn't have a choice on the 'vert. Oh well. Plasma cut that shit out, cut the brace out and start snaking away

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11679&stc=1&d=1331598813

Good shot of the extra bracing that's in there. Couldn't get through it easily and it would've made the harness too short anyway, so plan B is above.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11680&stc=1&d=1331598813

And there is the front harness back where it belongs save the bundle of wires that still needs to have a few connectors on it and be routed to the helltech and the new engine harness. I'll get to that hopefully in the next few days. Waiting on a few connectors to come in. I'd rather do all the crimping at once and just get it over with. Still need to mount the ECU as well.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11681&stc=1&d=1331598813

[TitaniumTT]

Onto the start of the ECU wiring............

Now here is a PS2000 Long harness.... and there are quite a few things that I don't like about it, and there are a few wires in there that we don't need. So.... lets break that shit apart and see what we've got shall we?

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11682&stc=1&d=1331598813

We don't need a trigger AND a home feed, just the trigger.. BUT this is because I'm using the FFE kit... no need for the home. So that comes out.... and as far as wires go, that's about it. Everything else is being used except for 2 outputs. One is going to live in the AUX harness on the engine side of the fire wall, the other will live in chassis side of the harness.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11683&stc=1&d=1331598813

I hate that fuse box, and I hate individual relays.... and I am not mounting them next to the ECU. There is just no room with the CC and the L controller. Soooooo all of this needs to go away and get relocated to the trunk area. At the end of the day there will be 2 trigger wires heading back to the truck area, and 3 feed wires plus one grnd heading to the ECU.... instead of this whole fricken mess....

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11684&stc=1&d=1331598813

And by the way kids, this is how you make a juntion splice. Step down butt connectors. On one side we have a W 14ga wire from the relays and one R 18ga that is the INJ input to the ECU. On the other side are 4 18ga W wires that will power the injectors. I don't put butt-splices inside of engine harnesses. It's just asking for trouble, and I never solder anything either... just asking for trouble. I found 3 broken solder joints on a certain RX8 turbo kit's jumper harness..... and we wondered why it was running lean... one of the primary inj wasn't firing.... Anywho. The only time I'll have a splice in an engine harness is for grnd coming out of the harness to the block. Like when 4 coils need to be grounded, or 4 reference wires for coils. That's it. Other than that.... no way.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11685&stc=1&d=1331598813

So yeah... next up is to mount the ECU and find the spot in the harness to cut it. The engine harness is going to be a 55 pin connector, still working on the AUX harness count. Actually going to get some dinner and take care of that right now. No work on the 'vert tonight.... daylight savings screwred me up pretty good.... working till 6:30am Sunday morning didn't help either :rofl:

[WE3RX7]

1. You're going to go blind.
2. You're getting too old for this shit.
3. Tic Toc.


Did I cover it all? :)

[djmtsu]

Anyone else notice Brain is drinking a Starbuck$$ energy drink?

And then he smokes cheap ass Parliaments.


Stay classy Bri.

[To_Slow]

Looking good! When you putting that engine together??? ;)

[hades]

updates on my ride :toetap05:

[WE3RX7]

^ what he said... it's been three days now.

[TitaniumTT]

Looking good! When you putting that engine together??? ;)

Well...... funny you should menion that... remember those rotors I told you about... well they showed up today and I need you to save them for me

I plan on getting pics up in this thread and that thread when I'm building, in the meantime I just look and oogle them everyday.

[2gslse]

Anyone else notice Brain is drinking a Starbuck$$ energy drink?

And then he smokes cheap ass Parliaments.


Stay classy Bri.

I think Redbull sponsored the coupe and the vert is proudly brought to us by Starbucks.

The cheap-ass cigs are a byproduct of Motec-money. lol...




Oh yeah one more thing...














TIC - TOC

[TitaniumTT]

updates on my ride :toetap05:

^ what he said... it's been three days now.

Yeah well..... working on rx8's takes the joy out of working on cars.... and I've got 2 more in a row before I can get on a certain FB as well.... soooooo yeah, prob wont touch the 'vert till Monday.

[TitaniumTT]

I think Redbull sponsored the coupe and the vert is proudly brought to us by Starbucks.

The cheap-ass cigs are a byproduct of Motec-money. lol...




Oh yeah one more thing...














TIC - TOC

:smilielol5: to ALL of it.......
but Parili's are classy where I'm from

[rxspeed7]

Hate working on rx-8's!

[djmtsu]

I love working on my RX-8!

Pussy.


:leaving:

[2gslse]

Working on a Rx-8 sucks in comparison to a FB the engine sits so far back and low everything is a pita to get to and the only way to do some things are from the bottom or remove half of the engine bay to see it.

[WE3RX7]

The worst part of working on the rx8 is you know nothing you're doing is going to make it any faster, lol...

[djmtsu]

The worst part of working on the rx8 is you know nothing you're doing is going to make it any faster, lol...

That is why I am not even bothering with power mods until it is out of warranty (2 years from now).

[2gslse]

The worst part of working on the rx8 is you know nothing you're doing is going to make it any faster, lol...

:smilielol5: Thats fucked up but true.

[TitaniumTT]

Hate working on rx-8's!

Agreed

I love working on my RX-8!

Pussy.


:leaving:

That's because you don't work on them.... :suspect:

Working on a Rx-8 sucks in comparison to a FB the engine sits so far back and low everything is a pita to get to and the only way to do some things are from the bottom or remove half of the engine bay to see it.

This is very true... although I did manage to strip the entire drivetrain from one yesterday in a little under 4 hrs :hurray:
Engine, harness, computer, trans, starter, driveshaft PPF.... Then I kicked it :rofl:

The worst part of working on the rx8 is you know nothing you're doing is going to make it any faster, lol...

:smilielol5: Thats fucked up but true.

haaahahahaaaaa.. indeed. At best you'll get 1/2 the HP of a turbo'ed 2 rotor ;)

[WE3RX7]

What the hell is going back into that rx8 for all that to be removed?

[TitaniumTT]

Don't know, don't care... it's a flood car that the owner stopped wanting to put $$$$$ into.... got sold as a roller..... rumor is it's going to be a 3 rotor drag car.... Only way to get any power out of an RX8 is to get rid of the renni

Sooooo I think I'll build the engine on Monday.... day off.... porting is all done.... what do you guys think?

[TitaniumTT]

Would help if I could find the camera......

[TitaniumTT]

Ah... here it is

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11706&stc=1&d=1331949525

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11707&stc=1&d=1331949525

[WE3RX7]

Lol... I see what you did there.... :toetap05:

[2gslse]

Looking good . why didn't you say BDC came up to help you???


That reminds me I need to get my car before he touches it.:rofl:

[TitaniumTT]

Looking good . why didn't you say BDC came up to help you???


That reminds me I need to get my car before he touches it.:rofl:

:rofl: Better hurry up.... your fuel pump should be here monday..... but I'm not working monday.

These are actual bdc ports :smilielol5:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11708&stc=1&d=1331951310

These are my ports..

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11709&stc=1&d=1331951310

I should mention though... these plates came from Chip @ Chips Motorsports. They were headed for the trash but I decided to call him up and see if there was anything that he could do. For about 20% of the cost of new plates.... OH MY FICKEN GOODNESS!!! I literally have BRAND NEW plates.

I consider that reconditioning mandatory for any high hp, hgh boost engine... hell, even an n/a if you want it to burn clean and have REALLY good compression. Can't wait to try them out

Can't thank ya enough Chip. Now I just need me a few months and a pair of rotors, and a pair of housings, and every new seal imaginable :rofl:

[2gslse]

Yeah I've heard it should be here before. non-stocking dealers suck.
What EGT stuff did you say I needed? I may be making a few extra bucks this week, a '79 Rx-7 is to be dropped off to see if I can revive it. it has been sitting off and on for years only 40,000 miles and original owner.

How are the v-mount thoughts coming?

[rxspeed7]

Why in the Sam hell did he go that far up on the renni exh port????????? WTF. The ports almost overlap on the iron. Lol. I guess when all your trying to sell Is the cool brap brap sounds rather than actual performance it works out good.

I personally lap every engine I put together. I'm to anal not too, to me that's the difference between a average joe rebuild and a real rebuild.

[TitaniumTT]

Why in the Sam hell did he go that far up on the renni exh port????????? WTF. The ports almost overlap on the iron. Lol. I guess when all your trying to sell Is the cool brap brap sounds rather than actual performance it works out good.

:rofl: Pretty much

I personally lap every engine I put together. I'm to anal not too, to me that's the difference between a average joe rebuild and a real rebuild.

Well..... some people haev different thoughts on expectations and levels of what they consider a good engine.

[TitaniumTT]

Yeah I've heard it should be here before. non-stocking dealers suck.

Yeah.... that's pretty outrageous. The last pump we ordered over the winter was here in like 2 days. I guess everyone is thinking the same thing. Weathers turning nice..... better get cracking on the car :rofl:

What EGT stuff did you say I needed? I may be making a few extra bucks this week, a '79 Rx-7 is to be dropped off to see if I can revive it. it has been sitting off and on for years only 40,000 miles and original owner.

COOL! Good luck with that!

It depends on how you want to go about it. There is 1 AVI left over that is currently designated as the trim switch. That can be reconfiged and used as an input for 1 EGT sensor. The wiring is already there, it would be an hr or so to wire everything up, and the parts would be about $100. It would be an amp from EGT.com and a probe as well. This is exactely what I'm doing in the 'vert. BUT, that's a stock turbo stock build kinda thing.... so stock it should make ove 250wheel :rofl:

According to EGT.com, that box can be mounted in the engine bay as long as it's not laying flat collecting water. Again, not a concern for the 'vert because it will never see rain, just the occasional washing.

What I would do for your car, is get the Haltech CAN based system. Chris Ludwig (LMS-EFI.com - not for you, I know you know who he is) sells them for ~$450 if memory is serving. That includes the box, the data cable, and the two probes.... again, if memory is serving, I would double check with him. (And I would strongly suggest you order from him and have him ship to me, keep Sue out of it and it off your bill)

The issue there is that the box isn't sealed any better than the ECU itself, and it has the CAN cable. I've got 4 extra wires running into the engine bay, so power/gnd and 2 for the CAN is all it SHOULD be. You've got a few extra pins left over in that connector, but I would have to strip back some of the harness to get them. Not a big deal. That's if you wanted to mount it in the engine bay. What I would suggest is mouting it in the car, and running the wires for the probes through the firewall. They should be able to pass through where the AC lines go. If not, it's not a big deal to punch a hole and use one of my watertight bulkhead seals.

The MAIN issue is you can't run the EGT probes through connectors or copper wire. The voltage is so mineute that the readings will be skewed doing this. They need to be plugged directly into the CAN box.

So, it's up to you. Mount it in the engine bay and risk water damange, or sneak them through the firewall.... or find a watertight box that it can be mounted in and pass the wires though the main harness. My thing with running them through the firewall is you would then need remove the probes from the mani before pulling the engine. I know, you don't pull engines nearly as often as I do, but I've got this thing that I want to undo as few connections as possible and build the entire engine on the stand.

Personally, another reason to do the Haltech CAN solution is individual fuel and ignition trimming. If you've only got one probe in the mani, you only know one temp and have to assume that they are the same. With the duals, you can make a pull on the dyno, record it. Swap sensors at the box and make another pull and compare them. If they are the same, only reversed, you know that the sensors are right on the money and start trimming to get them pretty close to even. With the EGT.com single probe AVI, you don't have that option. Youb only know the temp on one rotor

How are the v-mount thoughts coming?

There coming... I'm actually going to grab my intercooler when I'm in CT this weekend. I'm pretty sure it's a 24x12 core which is just what we were talking about. I LOVE the intercooler, but hate the company... so I'm kinda torn. It was also pricey @ ~$500. But it's perfect for mockup

[2gslse]

OK cool let me see how this car goes, its been worked on before and I'm going in blind but no promises to the owner on bringing it back from the dead again. Everything is fixable but its all about time/money willing to be used.

[chibikougan]

Prolapsed Anus:biggthumpup:

[2gslse]

Pretty quiet in here, hope all's well.

[RX-7FD3S]

nice project :)