R4ITEI's 10th AE Money Pit.

[r4itei]

so I finally have a 7! finally, after years and years of research and wanting =)
So hard to find a clean unmolested and decently priced one here in Toronto.

Sadly, I can't work on it right now >=( Stupid Winter

Anyway, here's the 411.
10th AE w/ 117,000 km

Pros:
- CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN! Except for the front bumper, someone backed into it.
Fortunately, just the bumper and maybe bumper and rad supports. Not so
bad.
- Decent mileage for a 24 year old car. And for the price I got it for, cheap!
- BONE STOCK! STOCK STOCK STOCK! ^_^
An artist needs a fresh canvas to create a masterpiece! =)


Cons:
- Car hasn't been started in 8-10 years. Just been stored inside a garage.
Figure the engine should get a rebuild, so I won't be surprised later on. Game plan for now is find another T2 keg. Send to Rotary Dynamics, I can be on the road sooner and rebuild the other keg myself.

- Tires look rotted. Wheels are scuffed to shit.
Possibly just refinish with fresh Dunlop Star Specs.


So since this car is 24 years old. Shit's about to break for sure. I'm open to suggestions, ideas, comments, whatever.

Immediate Planned Upgrades (To Be Done By May/June 2012):
- Supra TT Fuel Pump
It's recommended that I check/rewire the stock pump so might as well upgrade since it's a drop-in. Saves time and money in the future AND gives me room to breathe, cause apparently, the stock pump can't handle too much upgrades. Someone wanna give me the part number? Haha.
- F.C.D.
- Still on the fence on whether I should do the banjo bolt mod regarding that Pulsation Dampener or get an FPR that doesn't require a PD.
- Port the turbo wastegate. Will see shaft play and depending, perhaps send to BNR for rebuild/stage1?
- RTEK 2.1
- Turbo back? Catback? just gut the cat?
- Slotted rotors. Rebuild calipers. New pads.
- Braided brake lines and clutch lines. Gotta see how the hardlines are too.
- Struts and springs. Maybe I'll get it running first and see how it handles? or just do it once?
- New rad. Does the Koyo N-Pass for the S5 fit on the 10th AE? Does anyone recommend a different rad? I prefer stock fit...
- E-Fan
- FD Alternator? Pros Cons? Don't worry, I'm researching this right now.
- Upgrade Injectors? or just get em cleaned and tested?
- And new plugs, fluids, oil etc.


Am I missing anything I should upgrade/replace/look into? Something prone to breaking after 20+ years?
I'll eventually add pics to this thread.

Add-ons:
- Clean/New Fuel Tank. Possibly hardlines as well.
- 4 ID 720 or 50 (?) injectors
- New Water Pump, Belts and Hoses
- Front and Rear wheel bearings
- new brake master cylinder, new clutch slave/master cylinders with SS line
- Suspension bushings

[lt1_fd3s]

good luck with the build... but i would say if you can get the engine running that's in the car now! before rebuild! hahaha... never know, might run with a little love...

[djmtsu]

Since it has been sitting for SO LONG, I would edit your plans as follows (and why):

1) Haltech Platinum Sprint RE
-by now the stock wiring is crap, brittle and will prove a headache
2) Rebuild
-again, from sitting so long, I wouldn't try to start it. Can potentially do more damage than good. While it is apart get it ported and use GOOD apex seals and Viton seals.
3) Clean/Replace fuel tank
-if there was ANY fuel in it, is has turned to absolute shit. Might also need to source another pick up/sending unit as well. Most radiator shops can clean it, or just buy one.
4) Injector Dynamics 1000cc/1000cc for primary and secondaries.
-should be all you need for now
5) New water pump, belts and all hoses
-dried up and useless by now
6) if emissions aren't a concern, strip all that and order block off plates
-de-clutter the useless crap
7) mod the throttle body
-remove the emissions BS and plug the unnecessary ports.
8) FMIC kit
-the TMIC sucks.
9) Racing Beat FULL exhaust (downpipe to tailpipe)
-good sound, good power
10) go through the headlight/power harness and check everything
-this can wait until the car is running, but time (and potentially rodents) can do bad things to wiring
11) rebuilt calipers, or get remans
-surely one or more are seized.
12) new brake master cylinder
-sitting too long, dried up, I wouldn't trust it
13) new clutch slave/master cylinders with SS line
-they will be dried out and toast
14) upgraded clutch
-since you are wanting to upgrade power, this is a must
15) suspension bushings
-lack of movement and use has surely dried them out

The radiator and e-fan are a good idea. The FD alternator is as well, but you will need to get a new pulley from Japan2LA that will line up right. Also, it is a dual pulley so you can run two belts and ditch the air pump.

Upgraded struts and springs are a good idea too, but might want to just get coilovers since the prices are getting better. If you want it to ride nice, and do not need the massive adjustability of coilovers, I suggest KYB AGX struts and get the Racing Beat suspension kit that includes springs and sways. Sways make a huge difference.

Slotted rotors are not necessary, really. The stock brakes are outstanding, a good set of pads goes a long way. Don't throw your money away on brakes unless you are getting a big brake kit.

While you have the rear suspension out for new bushings, go ahead and replace the rear wheel bearings. You'll thank me. Might want to also replace the front wheel bearings as well.

Have fun :)

[r4itei]

good luck with the build... but i would say if you can get the engine running that's in the car now! before rebuild! hahaha... never know, might run with a little love...
- I'm scared that there's a loose seal and by trying to start it, I end up wrecking my housings and rotors and irons. Better safe than sorry. =)




1) Haltech Platinum Sprint RE
- I can't afford it right now. :( If I had money, I'd just follow in Titanium TT's footsteps and play with a Motec. I want sequential 400+ HP with a smooth transition...I picked a horrible idol, I know.
2) Rebuild
- Agreed
3) Clean/Replace fuel tank
- Perhaps new lines as well? Surely there will be gunk in there as well?
4) Injector Dynamics 1000cc/1000cc for primary and secondaries.
- Since I can't afford the Haltech, the max the RTEK allows is 720? or 750 cant remember. But I'll get 4 of whichever from ID.
5) New water pump, belts and all hoses
- Agreed
6) if emissions aren't a concern, strip all that and order block off plates
- I gotta keep emissions... I wanted an 87 FC so I wouldnt need to but couldnt pass up this 10th ae. gotta look up how to pass emissions...
7) mod the throttle body
- emissions
8) FMIC kit
- perhaps in a year or two? trying to go baby steps. maybe v-mount in 2 years? haha
9) Racing Beat FULL exhaust (downpipe to tailpipe)
- part of the plan... gotta somehow get a cat case welded over it to look like i have one?
10) go through the headlight/power harness and check everything
- i just need it to survive for a year or 2, hopefully. then get a proper standalone. TTT's wiring was/is sexy as hell. not trying to replicate him but cant argue with quality and results haha
11) rebuilt calipers, or get remans, new brake master cylinder, new clutch slave/master cylinders with SS line
- agreed
14) upgraded clutch
- i'm aiming for 220-250 hp at crank atm... would stock be able to handle? exedy stage 1?
15) suspension bushings
- didnt think of this one. added to list.

The radiator and e-fan are a good idea. The FD alternator is as well, but you will need to get a new pulley from Japan2LA that will line up right. Also, it is a dual pulley so you can run two belts and ditch the air pump.

how easy would it be to reinstall that air pump for emissions purposes? such a hassle i know. but i have read some people having an alternate exhaust just for emissions..


Upgraded struts and springs are a good idea too, but might want to just get coilovers since the prices are getting better. If you want it to ride nice, and do not need the massive adjustability of coilovers, I suggest KYB AGX struts and get the Racing Beat suspension kit that includes springs and sways. Sways make a huge difference.

funny enough i was gonna get the KYB AGX, already asked one of my buddies for pricing. why RB instead of ST regarding the springs? i was thinking about going for the ST.. and i read something before about how the rear sways arent a real necessity? cant remember..


Slotted rotors are not necessary, really. The stock brakes are outstanding, a good set of pads goes a long way. Don't throw your money away on brakes unless you are getting a big brake kit.

was thinking for better cooling? but if they arent a necessity then thanks!


While you have the rear suspension out for new bushings, go ahead and replace the rear wheel bearings. You'll thank me. Might want to also replace the front wheel bearings as well.

Have fun :)

[lt1_fd3s]

i'm crazy... so probably best not to listen to me =] good luck with it! and POST PICS!!! plz

[Pete_89T2]

- I'm scared that there's a loose seal and by trying to start it, I end up wrecking my housings and rotors and irons. Better safe than sorry. =)

Have you tried turning the engine over by hand to check if its locked up? Stick a ratchet wrench on the e-shaft pulley bolt and try rotating it - don't try to force anything, if all is well it should turn easily.

[djmtsu]

Have you tried turning the engine over by hand to check if its locked up? Stick a ratchet wrench on the e-shaft pulley bolt and try rotating it - don't try to force anything, if all is well it should turn easily.

Before you try that, take out the plugs and squirt some ATF or MMO in there rotor housing to try to break down some carbon that might have built up.

Of course, even if you turn it over, and hear all the pulses, that doesn't mean the engine is good. Over that length of time, the oil control rings have long dried up from lack of oil lubrication, and the coolant o rings probably in the same boat.

Seriously though, to avoid further damage, I would not tempt fate. If it fires and runs, then throws a seal you will be in for more $$$ for a rebuild than if you didn't.

[r4itei]

Seriously though, to avoid further damage, I would not tempt fate. If it fires and runs, then throws a seal you will be in for more $$$ for a rebuild than if you didn't.

i completely agree. i'm a firm believer in do it once do it right.
i've tried too many things hoping it'll be okay and end up screwing myself over.

i have thought about trying and pushing my luck but rather not risk it. at least with a rebuild, i'll know whats in there and what isnt.

[r4itei]

i'm crazy... so probably best not to listen to me =] good luck with it! and POST PICS!!! plz

pics shall come, just be patient. stupid snow. we were getting +5 degree temperatures the past 2 weeks ... its snowing this weekend.

believe me, i cannot wait to get started. there will be plenty of pics!

[Raksj04]

The main issue with running rtek is the fact you have to find a old palm to tune with it. The sony cile I have will not hotsync via usb with my windows 7 64 bit computer. I have to hotsync via IR port, which is slow. If you have big plans for the future plan for it now. I would pick up a used Haltech, one that is known to work well.

[Luthor]

Best of luck in reviving that baby!

[speedjunkie]

Welcome! I love 10thA.E.s so I need to see pics lol.

[DriFD3S]

I agree with Speedjunkie,
Post up some pictures man!!

[r4itei]

Pictures are comin'! When winter decides to leave..! I wanna get started on this project!

OH! DriFD3S, can't tell specifically who your avatar is but I was asking one of my graphic design friend to sketch an FC with blue and white gundam-esque paint scheme. haha.


So, anyway, questions....
(I'll be searching as well but sometimes I'm not searching the right keywords for it.)

Suspension bushings. Prothane vs Energy Suspension? Pros and Cons of either?
I recall reading a long time ago, something about how it makes the suspension too stiff and how some parts they used the OEM and some the polys?

Springs. Debating on Tanabe GF210 or Suspension Techniques or RB. I've been googling for 20-30 minutes and not sure whether I'm just retarded. For any/all 3, linear/progressive? spring rates F/R? more street/track oriented?

From a first glance, I would prefer a progressive spring since it'll be more forgiving on the street and keep up when I kick it on track. Just from what I've read, no real experience yet. Penny for your thoughts?

And as soon as the snow melts, I swear there will be pics! And I can start working on her!

[Pete_89T2]

Suspension bushings. Prothane vs Energy Suspension? Pros and Cons of either?
I recall reading a long time ago, something about how it makes the suspension too stiff and how some parts they used the OEM and some the polys?

Springs. Debating on Tanabe GF210 or Suspension Techniques or RB. I've been googling for 20-30 minutes and not sure whether I'm just retarded. For any/all 3, linear/progressive? spring rates F/R? more street/track oriented?

From a first glance, I would prefer a progressive spring since it'll be more forgiving on the street and keep up when I kick it on track. Just from what I've read, no real experience yet. Penny for your thoughts?

I haven't done the full bushing job yet (only did the sway bar bushings so far), so I really can't comment WRT comparing brands there. On the springs & struts question, I'm using Racing Beat springs (linear springs) and a set of the the KYB AGX adjustable struts. I've been very happy with this combination; the KYBs have 4 adjustment settings up front, and 8 rear, and adjustments are easy to get to without having to take anything apart. I've found that with the KYB settings at the midpoints ("2" front, "4" rear), handling is crisp & predictable on the twisties/autocross, with a neutral balance. Ride quality & comfort is actually a big improvement over stock - but then my stock springs & struts had 15 years of wear & tear on them when I replaced them!

[r4itei]

update time! still cold here in toronto. but starting to hover around a few degrees above freezing. still chilly with windchill but quite sunny. so i decided to get this project started!

first off. pictures of how the car was when I got it.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/420186_10150598140683305_34923452_n.jpg

Like I mentioned, the car was hit on the bumper, but otherwise, clean!
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/394134_10150598150748305_502678304_9091665_1130832 921_n.jpg

More pics of teh carnage...
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/402110_10150598150933305_502678304_9091668_6880890 94_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/423949_10150598155058305_502678304_9091729_1309195 124_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/425934_10150598155293305_502678304_9091735_1237012 993_n.jpg


But look how clean!
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/432372_10150598156308305_502678304_9091754_1156125 586_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/429757_10150598151218305_502678304_9091673_1585236 176_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/420131_10150598151538305_502678304_9091678_1714600 599_n.jpg

10th A.E.!
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/402584_10150598151763305_502678304_9091681_1371046 693_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/428052_10150598152418305_502678304_9091690_1475533 859_n.jpg

Black on black interior! =)
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/407495_10150598151993305_502678304_9091684_1125140 21_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/427284_10150598155873305_502678304_9091746_5759881 86_n.jpg

Only 117k km on the clock. Pretty low mileage to me. ^__^
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/421814_10150598152193305_502678304_9091687_1376155 602_n.jpg

All stock errthang!
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/401343_10150598152723305_502678304_9091695_4446838 70_n.jpg

Beauty!
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/424048_10150598153118305_502678304_9091697_7557857 15_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/401487_10150598153548305_502678304_9091704_1706923 646_n.jpg

Courtesy engine bay shot.
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/401348_10150598154448305_502678304_9091719_7695982 80_n.jpg

=D
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/422571_10150598154043305_502678304_9091714_1783381 967_n.jpg

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/428068_10150598154708305_502678304_9091725_1654682 244_n.jpg

[r4itei]

took the time this weekend to start working on this baby.

first order of business was to take the hood off. easy peasy.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/422151_10150598156598305_502678304_9091758_2129929 782_n.jpg

then the fenders and front bumper!

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/420993_10150598208178305_502678304_9091982_1995923 062_n.jpg

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/424550_10150598208303305_502678304_9091984_1655823 889_n.jpg


so very clean!

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/426407_10150598208948305_502678304_9091990_9528552 41_n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/431753_10150598208793305_502678304_9091988_1403225 033_n.jpg


sadly, gotta get its frame pulled. =(
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/428262_10150598208653305_502678304_9091987_9477731 91_n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/421979_10150598208398305_502678304_9091986_3067233 65_n.jpg

good news is, the damage is only in the crumple zone. suspension should be fine. really hope it's not too expensive to fix. just cosmetic but i dont want gaps on my new bumper... there wont be a new bumper for at least a few months tho.

that hood is so light! holy shit. haha and i was reading some thread about how to take off the front bumper. i laughed when someone said resist the urge to cut it up and trash it. i ended up cutting mine up. didnt know the fenders had to be taken off first. haha oh well. i learned my lesson.

game plan next weekend is drain the oil and coolant and remove the busted front bumper reinforcement. ill probably label everything on the engine and the connectors connected to it. take apart as much of the engine accessories and such. get it ready to be pulled.

also now i gotta find that energy absorbing foam... oh well. good thing i got a few months to find all the front bumper stuff.

would you like moar pics? =) more to come.

[chibikougan]

Shit'll buff out...

[FC Zach]

haha and i was reading some thread about how to take off the front bumper. i laughed when someone said resist the urge to cut it up and trash it. i ended up cutting mine up. didnt know the fenders had to be taken off first. haha oh well. i learned my lesson.

Oh No! LOL the fenders can not be taken off first. The fender wells liners have to pulled to reveal the hidden hardware (which is a PITA to get to!) to remove the bumper, then you can remove the fenders.

[r4itei]

really want to work on the car today since it's such a beautiful day out. but i want a rest day. so ill just tide the craving by reading up on forums and such!

RTEK 2.1 should be on the way. =)

Oh No! LOL the fenders can not be taken off first. The fender wells liners have to pulled to reveal the hidden hardware (which is a PITA to get to!) to remove the bumper, then you can remove the fenders.

haha yeah i found that out after. and yes they are a big pain in the ass to get to. but i wanted the fenders off anyway to see the chassis itself. as you can see, looks pretty immaculate. plus i was scared of scratching the fenders as i started taking stuff off the engine.

[FerociousP]

Denso Aftermarket Supra Pump

Supra kit (w/ Supra strainer)
950-0155

Pump only
951-0014

***Interestingly, 951-0014 is the same part number Denso uses for the FD. So, they are (at least in the aftermarket) the same pump.

[jacobcartmill]

1) Haltech Platinum Sprint RE
-by now the stock wiring is crap, brittle and will prove a headache
4) Injector Dynamics 1000cc/1000cc for primary and secondaries.
-should be all you need for now
6) if emissions aren't a concern, strip all that and order block off plates
-de-clutter the useless crap
7) mod the throttle body
-remove the emissions BS and plug the unnecessary ports.
8) FMIC kit
-the TMIC sucks.
9) Racing Beat FULL exhaust (downpipe to tailpipe)
-good sound, good power
11) rebuilt calipers, or get remans
-surely one or more are seized.
12) new brake master cylinder
-sitting too long, dried up, I wouldn't trust it
13) new clutch slave/master cylinders with SS line
-they will be dried out and toast
14) upgraded clutch
-since you are wanting to upgrade power, this is a must

The FD alternator is as well, but you will need to get a new pulley from Japan2LA that will line up right. Also, it is a dual pulley so you can run two belts and ditch the air pump.

Upgraded struts and springs are a good idea too, but might want to just get coilovers since the prices are getting better.


DJ just a few questions, as you seem to have a lot of experience with this:

1) do you have any commentary as to why you'd recommend the sprint RE over other EMS options? ems is a pretty big investment.
4) the ID stuff is a pretty expensive option. im curious as to the benefit.
8) have you ever logged intake temps with the stock TMIC running the stock turbo and stock TII hood?
FD alternator/purplepulley would be one of the last mods/repairs i did to this car.
why not go with AGXs w/GC sleeves? these are pretty cost effective and functional.

[r4itei]

Update!

Didn't get much done this weekend, spent Saturday going to the Canadian International Autoshow. I didn't get to see the Zonda R or the One-77... >=(

Today, spent some time draining the oil/coolant and the remainder of where the front bumper stuff bolts to the frame.

Mostly spent time organizing my friend's parent's garage. Welp, me and my friends have pretty much taken over it, they don't seem to mind. Found new tools and organized it and such. Might need to invest in some speakers, better hangout spot than most places.

Wish I had my own mancave/garage.

- RTEK2.1 is in transit.
- Supra TT Fuel Pump Paid. Waiting on the guy to ship and the tracking number.
- Thinking of buying this Zeitronix ZT-2 Wideband... thoughts on this particular wideband?
- Next weekend, gonna start taking the longblock apart. I'll post pics. Also, I gotta buy a few bins to keep all the parts in. haha.

[r4itei]

So over the past few weekends, been working on it as much as leisurely possible.

Engine is out. New fuel lines are going in. Ended up cutting them. Frustrated me trying to take them off. Since it's gonna be fixed, gonna go with a parallel setup. The FPD will be banjo'd and an aftermarket FPR will go in. I want to upgrade the injuectors but we'll see how things go financially. Might just have the old ones cleaned...for the time being.

Stupid oil cooler lines seized on me, soaked them in PB blaster for a while and still nothing. Ended up kinking the hose and twisting it so I just cut it. Will be replaced.. anyone ever use the FD oil cooler on an FC? The rad gets air after the cooler and AC so not really ideal...

Taking apart the longblock, a fair few of the lines broke so it'll be replaced with silicone hoses. Takes forever to prep an engine for a pull. First time doing it... quite proud of myself.

Installed the RTEK2.1. Supra fuel pump is sitting at home. It'll go in soon. Gonna drain that fuel tank first and get it cleaned. Engine is sitting on the stand. Disassembly started last night, Rear iron is off but stopped for the day. Needed rest.

Pics on the way.

[Nismo]

Pb blaster is only going to make the head of the bolt slippery, the crush washers keep oil in, and they sure won't let oil in. If you are that worried about the oil cooler, relocate it, they are huge, or do a set up like TTT's with the Dual Oil coolers from a FD, and put in the brake cooling duct intake.

[r4itei]

Righto, update time!

Toronto weather is retarded. A week or two ago, weather was beautiful. 15 degrees outside, one Wednesday was even 26 degrees! Temps this weekend, -3, its screwed up, I want my summer!

I've started ordering parts for the build, things seem to be in great condition! Gonna go with the Pineapple Racing rebuild kit. The block is disassembled, housings look beautiful, as well as the irons and rotors. Cleaning starts this week. Rotors have a thick layer of carbon on 'em. Currently, they are soaking in kerosene. Gonna let it sit a day or two while I clean the other pieces.

After the cleaning phase is complete (should be done by Thursday I hope, stay after work a few hours to use the parts washer and supplies), I'm gonna start making sure everything is up to spec. They all look amazing so I hope they'll all still be in spec.

Talked to a body shop 2 days ago to see what my options are, for the dent up front. The guy said he'll call me sometime in the next week to take a look at the car and take some measurements.

Here I thought they just shoved it on a machine and pulled it straight. Haha, I'm an idiot when it comes to body work. Hopefully it won't be too expensive. =\

While I was soaking the rotors in kerosene today, took a look at the turbo for shaftplay, didn't feel a thing, but I did find cracks where it mates with the exhaust manifold. Took a look at the manifold as well and my heart sank. Took some pics to get some opinions on what options I can take...

Here's what I found on the turbo side of things...
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/549896_10150679842843305_502678304_9367629_1687463 992_n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s720x720/549896_10150679842873305_502678304_9367630_2117919 408_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s720x720/549896_10150679842883305_502678304_9367631_9132105 32_n.jpg



And here's what I found on the exhaust manifold...
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/549896_10150679842888305_502678304_9367632_6738785 42_n.jpg

Thoughts/tips on actions to take?

[RETed]

. anyone ever use the FD oil cooler on an FC? The rad gets air after the cooler and AC so not really ideal...

The stock FC oil cooler is one of the biggest used on a mass-produced automobile.
The problem is not the size...
(The FD ones are smaller.)
It's the way it's mounted.
The oil cooler just sits in the airflow in the stock location.
Air will mostly flow around it - not through it.
If you're able to give this stock oil cooler it's dedicated ducting, it'll actually OVERCOOL the oil.
This is why Mazda stuck a thermostat in it.

Don't reinvent the wheel.
If you need more oil cooling (really only needed if you track the car), then install dedicated air ducts for it.


-Ted

[TXRota]

That's tight...my 10ae has those flawless leather seats too, I guess its jus that model lol