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View Full Version : having some cooling isues on my fc


db86na
01-01-2012, 08:51 PM
how do u tell if the water pump went bad?. so im driving today and my coolant buzzer goes off so i pull over and fill it up and go to burp it but it just keeps overflowing out the fill neck and wont stop and what sounds to me is the water pump making a grinding noise

db86na
01-01-2012, 09:19 PM
it kinda seems like a bad bearing in the pump but when i turn by hand it feels good

LunchboxCritter
01-01-2012, 09:23 PM
Could the thermostat be stuck shut?

db86na
01-01-2012, 09:27 PM
would i still get heater if it was

NoDOHC
01-01-2012, 11:28 PM
Unfortunately, I think that your issue is far deeper than a thermostat (deeper in the engine I mean). I think that you are describing the textbook symptoms of blown coolant seals. The coolant seals typically last about 200,000 miles or 20 years and then they fail. This is usually triggered by an overheating event, but not always.

The coolant seals keep the coolant in the water jacket and out of the combustion chamber. Depending on where in the cycle they fail, the engine may only run on one rotor for a little while after startup until the second rotor has cleared the water out. In extreme cases you may hydrolock (although I have never seen this one).

Basically, coolant seal failure is closest to a head gasket failure on a piston engine.

Your options:
Cry - Won't help much, but you may feel better
Try bars-leak or something similar - this is not a permanent fix, but may buy you a couple thousand miles
Get a used engine and put it in - probably the easiest and least expensive
Buy some $150.00 coolant seals and rebuild the engine yourself - This will cost more than $150.00 and will take a long time for your first time, you could port it while you have it apart...
Get another engine with blown apex seals and make the two into one - I really don't recommend this, but I have seen this work at least twice.

db86na
01-02-2012, 12:42 AM
it starts on both rotors and has no smoke or acting strange and it never overheated temp was 1/4 way up on the gauge but i didnt even notice the belt was a little loose at first tightend it up and started it and noise was gone but ill check it out more in the morning when engine is cold

RETed
01-02-2012, 04:50 AM
Start with the small, easy stuff and work your way "upwards"...

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/PROBLEMS/P1/ENGINE/TOOHOT/coolant.htm

If the thermostat is stuck, check the core of the radiator with your hand CAREFULLY.
The core of the radiator should be evenly hot when the thermostat opens.
If the bottom of the radiator (by the lower radiator hose) isn't as hot at the top (by the upper radiator hose) this is a possible sign the thermostat is bad.
The above also would indicate a blockage in the radiator core and / or something wrong with the water pump.

Easy test to see if the thermostat is working or not - throw it in a pot of boiling water.


-Ted

db86na
01-03-2012, 03:31 PM
did some work today on the fc pulled water pump apart and found a nasty thermostat and also my nasty water pump, im hoping this was my grinding problem and has a bad bearing it was so hard to turn the blades at first then it spun freely

RETed
01-03-2012, 03:37 PM
I don't like the color of the coolant...
Hope you're going to flush the system very thoroughly...


-Ted

db86na
01-03-2012, 04:01 PM
oh yes i am gonna replace thermostat and water pump and do a full coolant flush, can i just use some 1211 for a water pump gasket, and when i turn the timming pully by hand i dont have any grinding or any weird noises but the pump feels a bit sloppy that has to be my problem

Raksj04
01-03-2012, 09:27 PM
Is that from rust in the system???

db86na
01-03-2012, 09:34 PM
yes sir this thing has been sitting in a feild since 1996 up intell 4 months ago and the owner i got it from never flushed anything now i have to deal with the problems

Raksj04
01-03-2012, 10:15 PM
If your blower motor vibrates on the highest setting $10 says its a dead mouse or other rodent like animal.

db86na
01-03-2012, 10:21 PM
well there was a ton of mouse terds under the interior when i pulled to paint it but back to the question has any one had a bearing go out in there water pumps and makes a grinding noise

RETed
01-04-2012, 04:37 AM
The water pump tends to puke it's seal and leak through the weep hole before it gets to kill the bearing...

With the fact that the car was sitting around for so long, it's no surprise the water pump bearing is toast.

"1211"?
Dunno what that is...


-Ted

db86na
01-05-2012, 06:29 PM
Ok so I replaced the water pump I still have the grinding noise with the belt hooked up but when I unhook alt belt there is no noise should I replace the altenator and fan clutch

db86na
01-05-2012, 11:06 PM
looks like i pin pointed the problem to being the alternator bearing mixed in with a handfull of belt dust that was inside the alt lol i love neglected cars. now the alt is not charging the battery after i dropped it time for a new one..

NoDOHC
01-27-2012, 09:42 PM
I am glad that it was just the water pump. It looks like I jumped the gun there on the diagnosis.
Hopefully you can get it in good running order by spring.

RXheaven
02-17-2012, 11:34 AM
If i can suggest something, when you flush it, try that waterwetter stuff. I tried it, and my temp very rarely raises past 180. stock radiator, oem thermostat and a front mount blocking the radiator. it really helped with my running hot problem.