coils

[mattallac]

have a jen 2 turbo motor in my rx2 the coils are huge any good coil options you guys know of that are small and have good quality

[RETed]

I don't know what you're looking for, but the general rule of thumb is that the bigger the coil...the bigger, better the spark.
Going with a small coil usually means less spark.

You can try and mess with LS-series coils taken from Chevy V8's?


-Ted

[Raksj04]

I heard gen 2 coils were the most reliable coils mazda put in a rotary. Are they dead or are you trying to get smaller ones to clean up the engine bay?

[mattallac]

trying to clean the engine bay up ,the rx2 has very little room in the engine bay i found that the coils from the gen 2 has igniters on them i dont know this for fact if so that could be a factor . i am using a haltec sprint re ecu and bigger coils dont mean better spark .

[TitaniumTT]

I don't know what you're looking for, but the general rule of thumb is that the bigger the coil...the bigger, better the spark.
Going with a small coil usually means less spark.

You can try and mess with LS-series coils taken from Chevy V8's?


-Ted

I wouldn't waste your time with the LS1 coils, I still have yet to test the LS2 coils, however, you do need to be careful; certain versions of the LS2 coil have circuitry built into them that allows them to auto ignite. Those I would stay away from.

I'm running a set of Bosch motorsports coils and LOVE them. Small, powerful etc etc. I will say though that the Quicksilver ones the C Ludwig offers impressed me. They're larger, more difficult to mount, but they are the most powerful inductive coil I have ever put on my car.

[Raksj04]

trying to clean the engine bay up ,the rx2 has very little room in the engine bay i found that the coils from the gen 2 has igniters on them i dont know this for fact if so that could be a factor . i am using a haltec sprint re ecu and bigger coils dont mean better spark .

I have heard of a FB guy who did a super clean 13B-T swap. I think his coils were mounted under the dash. I didn't see the car but my friend james talks about it all the time. I think is AFM is after the turbo mounted behind the front fascia.

[WE3RX7]

I run LS2 on mine at stock dwell times with no issue. It's the D585 series. The Bosch are good as well. I have a set sitting on the bench not sure what to do with, lol...

[RETed]

trying to clean the engine bay up ,the rx2 has very little room in the engine bay i found that the coils from the gen 2 has igniters on them i dont know this for fact if so that could be a factor .
Yes, the FC coils have an integrated ignitor built into the bases.


i am using a haltec sprint re ecu and bigger coils dont mean better spark .
Be careful with this statement...
It is true that the Haltech is able to adjust (i.e. lengthen) the dwell signal duration, but this fact should be kept independent of this discussion.
You can just lengthen the dwell duration and get a longer spark before you get to the point where you fry the coil, but this just means that you able to apply this fact to any coil you install in there.

If we isolate the coil by themselves, my statement still stands: physically larger coils will, in general, fire a better spark.
The coil is just a (step-up, DCV) transformer.
As long as it gets the minimum charge voltage and time, it will fire a spark that's dependent on circuit resistance and windings ratio...pretty simple.
Coils are typically rated by primary resistance, secondary resistance, coil ratio, current (and sometimes "work" - i.e. Joules), and max output voltage.

The easy answer would be to use some kinda CDI box for your coils, and just run the smallest coils you can find.
The CDI system negates most of the limitations from input charge time and minimum voltage.
Adding a CDI box just adds complexity and eats up space though...

One downside to running a smaller coil is that heat can sometimes become a problem.
If this is a race-only vehicle, then you just need the coil to stay cool for the duration of the race.
If you're going to street this vehicle, you gotta watch out, as most of the "race-only" coils are not made to run for long periods and can fry from overheating.

With all of that crap said, check out the MSD Blaster SS coil...
http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Coils/Street/Strip/8207_-_MSD_Blaster_SS_Coil.aspx


-Ted

[mattallac]

still dont agree bigger is not hotter spark/better spark ,with the epoxy / oil filled coils all the advantage can be is cooling.all coils are not the same , resistance ,saturation time etc.oil filled is old hat for coils and epoxy filled are compact and stay cooler .most of the cars made in the last 20 years that came with crank fire systems stock have enough mv to cook a man from the inside out,they are not large coils.they are coil over packs (small).i would like to know what the output voltages are on those huge coils that came from the 2nd jen(made in the 80's) and are they oil or epoxy filled,my bet is i can find smaller coils with the same if not more output voltage and less saturation time .

[mattallac]

p.s. spark plugs and theyre resistance have alot to do with spark energy and when the plug fires at a set voltage. i work at a dyno shop in the bay area so if i get some coils i can test and see a difference between stock and aftermarket coils and maybe play with some colder plugs than stock ,all factors in the spark debate.aem high output coils with igniter are looking like my choice for the moment.

[C. Ludwig]

What engine management system are you using?

Normally, I'd say the LS truck coils are what you're looking for, but, IMO they require an ECU that is capable of direct-fire ignition. They do not work well with wastespark systems, due to dwell time limitations. The AEM/Mercury IGN-1A coils are one of the best inductive coils on the market right now, but they're a little larger than the LSx coils, and are difficult to package on top of the engine like you will want to do to clean things up.

[RICE RACING]

Stop playing with old tech and toys.

Go full CDI, Dynatek is very small coils (bike stuff) and CDI boxes are not large at all and very simple system and reliable and cheap too. :smash:

I have been running the above for many years and 10's of thousands of covered real world miles. You can run any tuning you like, any fuel, any ratio, it will burn the lot. and unlike MSD (My Spark Disappeared) you wont have any reliability issues.

If you are in any doubts about Inductive V's CDI go rent a lab scope and test your secondary voltage @ 2k rpm increments to 8k rpm then post back, you will be shocked how much voltage you drop as rpm increases!!!

If you need some help for parts PM me or search my threads.

[mattallac]

the aem coils are a little large but doable for my space situation the haltec ls1 coils are a little smaller .i have limited space and a cdi (from dynatek or haltec) is a great idea but want to make it clean .see i dont need the MOST powerful thing on the market ,its a street car .all i was looking for was a smaller coil with the same if not better spark and over all performance .the fact sheet for the aem coils are what i was searching for .cdi is a better system (to me and the dyno )lol but rx2s can be a tight fit for a turbo setup .my car is a 13b turbo with a street port, super t4 turbo at 10 psi and it runs mid 11 in the quarter.that is with the stock coils. as long as that stays the same im good .the next project is changing the turbo to a t3 t4 hybrid ,the boost starts spooling at 4800 with the t4 ,i would like to lower that #,any suggestions are greatly appreciated

[C. Ludwig]

Skip all variants of the LS1 coil all together. Their output is far from impressive. The only LSx coil I would recommend is the truck coil (the one with the heat sink).

The LS truck coil will output around 115 mj peak @ 6ms charge. The AEM/Mercury can make that at 3 ms charge. If your EMS allows you to throttle the coil charge relative to demand (most do not) and supports direct-fire, you can really lean on the Mercury coil. They'll develop 250 mj at 6 ms charge time! That's more than any street capable CDI with a much longer spark duration. But, like a race CDI (M&W Drag boxes for example), you can't run the Mercury coil at that much dwell for extended durations on the street. If it's a drag only setup, then you can get away with running them that hard.

Inductive technology has come a long way over the last decade. The need for CDI has diminished as that technology has improved. We now have inductive coils that provide the same levels of output, with fast charge times, and none of the electrical noise associated with CDI. They package more neatly and are less expensive as well.

[RICE RACING]

You will never ever get ANY inductive ignition that will not drop output as a function of rpm *fact*

You will never ever get any inductive ignition that will run a true race spark plug of the coldest heat range from cold start *fact*

You will never ever get any inductive ignition that will fire 50% excess fuel as required in a turbo car, let alone any type of water injection system *fact*

CDI DO NOT create "electrical noise" unless it is a very poor install or fitted by someone who has no idea of CDI systems

If you want a real ignition system for a turbo car, you want CDI, inductive is a pure waste of time, effort, energy to try and make it work, if you HATE changing out warm up spark plugs for race plugs, hate needing to tune to suit the ignition system rather than the engine, then dont waste your time trying to follow poor advise to run inductive ignition systems.

No matter how many decades or centuries pass electrical theory does not change and inferior slower less energy of magnetic induction will always be vastly inferior to using the coil as a step up transformer :coolgleamA: Rotary engines have ALWAYS made more power on CDI v's Inductive, all experienced people know this for a fact.

[mattallac]

rice racing my question is the second jen turbo came with inductive coils why didnt they use a cdi ,i do understand electrical theory and yes a cdi can magnify spark or a msd 6a box will multi spark (only to 3k) .i have ran my old repu on the dyno for testing with and without 6a boxes and there was no hp difference .that was a streetport 13b ,holly 600 ,road race header with dual 2" ,166hp to rear wheels at 7500 rpm.now as for turbo application on a rotary i have not tried a cdi yet. with the stock coils on my rx2 i am at 347 hpp on a mustang dyno at 10 psi.7500 rpm.aem coil is 118 mj ,up to 3.2ms

[RICE RACING]

rice racing my question is the second jen turbo came with inductive coils why didnt they use a cdi ,i do understand electrical theory and yes a cdi can magnify spark or a msd 6a box will multi spark (only to 3k) .i have ran my old repu on the dyno for testing with and without 6a boxes and there was no hp difference .that was a streetport 13b ,holly 600 ,road race header with dual 2" ,166hp to rear wheels at 7500 rpm.now as for turbo application on a rotary i have not tried a cdi yet. with the stock coils on my rx2 i am at 347 hpp on a mustang dyno at 10 psi.7500 rpm.aem coil is 118 mj ,up to 3.2ms

CDI costs money, Inductive is cheap, that is why OEM dont use it from factory. Look at the factory LeMans winner, you will find CDI on it ;)

If its ported, or running boosted at good power CDI is a no brainer really.....
I have a video of stock std 13B S5 engine block here I ran 10 to 15 years ago > http://www.riceracing.com.au/water-injection.htm
S5 video > 440rwhp down bottom of page.
You cant do this on inductive with 11 heat range plugs and a true daily driven car, I have had people try all types even with inductive boosters and much higher primary voltage to coils and it just flat out does not ever work as well as any decent CDI system.

One thing you will NEVER see on a good CDI set up is people changing spark plugs to warm up a race engine lol, you wont see people changing plugs cause they are fouled either on true road cars, you also will never see doctored "tunes" cause of misfire limitations imposed by a fundamental lack of secondary voltage or poor spark "type" characteristics (dont worry about token energy ratings some spurt out)......... CDI suits rotary engines end of story.

The bike CDI's are actually some of the most reliable, so are some of the marine version too. I pioneered the use of dynatek systems for rotaries and many across the world have copied my lead on that. Cheap, compact, powerful and reliable with no limits as I have described above at length.

Its a free world chose what you want @ the end of the day, just passing on what most would not care to tell forum people :seeya:

[C. Ludwig]

Pete, you are entertaining. :lol:

[mattallac]

point taken rr,i looked at the dynatec coils and they are a compact package and the cdi's could fit in the cab , there is alot of adjustment options . i guess you would use the metric cruiser coils ,3 ohm or 2.2 ohm< and the cdi? how hard is it to hook up instead of standard coils ? but price is steep

[mattallac]

inductive and cdi are both good ways for a rotary engine ,there is no absolute ,rice i respect your opinion ,but 18 and 24 psi are NOT street cars,the problem is people want a race car/street car when in fact there is no such thing.if the care did not come on a trailer its not a race car period. when you buy a motorcycle for dirt/street (dual sport) the bike just sucks in both conditions.with that said i have been thinking of a half cdi (lead) half inductive (trailing ),might be the best for my application . not to pick on you rice but the white rx2 4 door is nice but it looks like you guys have 15 or 16 in rims on it there is no way you guys get traction ,on 10 psi of boost i run 14" wheels with drag radials and i still break traction in 3rd gear.that looks like loss of horse power to me.why hp the car out when it cant put it to the ground?thanks for all the good advice everyone.

[RICE RACING]

inductive and cdi are both good ways for a rotary engine ,there is no absolute ,rice i respect your opinion ,but 18 and 24 psi are NOT street cars,the problem is people want a race car/street car when in fact there is no such thing.if the care did not come on a trailer its not a race car period. when you buy a motorcycle for dirt/street (dual sport) the bike just sucks in both conditions.with that said i have been thinking of a half cdi (lead) half inductive (trailing ),might be the best for my application . not to pick on you rice but the white rx2 4 door is nice but it looks like you guys have 15 or 16 in rims on it there is no way you guys get traction ,on 10 psi of boost i run 14" wheels with drag radials and i still break traction in 3rd gear.that looks like loss of horse power to me.why hp the car out when it cant put it to the ground?thanks for all the good advice everyone.

This is why I despise the internet and most people's general commentary on it.

INDUCTIVE does NOT work at high power so it is not "GOOD" by your definition, no one I know wastes time to run ANY inductive set up as it has massive limitations and is just a flat out pain in the arse to live with because it can not do everything a CDI can (this is a well known fact).

That RX2 had only 205 wide section tires on 17" wheels and it has/had FULL TRACTION on 27psi boost! and over 600rwhp in 3rd gear, you can simply see the data logs I freely post up.

The RX7 running 25psi mid range boost again had stock std wheels and 225 wide rear tires and full traction in 2nd gear onwards.

On my own RICESP I run 255 wide tires on the factory BBS wheels, and I have full traction @ 20psi in 2nd gear with normal road tires (not semi slick R compound)........ PROVEN TO OUT ACCELERATE A FERRARI F40! & Vette ZR-1 !

ALL OF THESE CARS PUT THE POWER TO THE GROUND easy. < In 1st and 2nd gear or sub 70mph I/we use low boost (20psi) in 3rd gear onwards its common to run 25, 27, 36psi! or more psi! depending on the individual cars drive line and chassis quality, running an honest 700bhp @ the engine in a 13B road car on gasoline and "normal factory fitment rims/wheels and decent tires is easy" I even put up video's showing proof for any doubters, remember this is not FACT v's Fiction thread on RX7club where no evidence or any running cars are never posted LOL!!! this is all FACT!!! shown/proven/documented over multiple testing standards, dyno's, road video's.......... ALL FACT! not one ounce of internet forum FICTION!!!

20psi or 1.4bar or 1.5kg/cm boost is the minimum boost I run on road cars, YES real road cars!, drive there drive back, pass emission tests (on stock motors)! fill on normal gasoline (no power in a can needed!) and water injected. This is a road car, more so than anyone else poor attempts at achieving the same.

When you set up the car right and use good suspension and a decent tire of normal size as you can see in the many videos I post up, putting the power down is 100% possible and has been done many many many times.

I think the problem is we live in different worlds, I was doing 20 years ago what some today think is radical, to me what is normal now is still to this day un heard of for the vast majority of others be they individuals or shop owners. If you want to run low power, low boost then sure inductive will suffice you just like it does stock cars. If on the other hand you want to run BIG power, cold durable racing spark plugs, engine calibrations that stand the test of time, water injected etc, then you will need to man up and use a quality CDI solution just like everyone has used since the mid 1960's!

As I said before its a free world, you can chose to run whatever you like, but I don't like reading your justification saying I am doing something wrong or there is no way the power can be used, cause I like you say what the fuck is the point!!!!..... Remember this is about making FAST & RELIABLE REAL STREET CARS that do not need "power in a can" special fuels, I lead the world in that for rotary & other turbo engines, always have and probably always will :ugh2:

[TitaniumTT]

the aem coils are a little large but doable for my space situation the haltec ls1 coils are a little smaller

Don't waste your time with the LS1 coils, they are miserable little failures.

Skip all variants of the LS1 coil all together. Their output is far from impressive. The only LSx coil I would recommend is the truck coil (the one with the heat sink).

I BELIEVE that's the one with the auto-discharge, so setting it up properly in the ecu is key.... just ask the legions of RX8 owners that blew their engines while cranking it with the BHR upgrade.


You will never ever get ANY inductive ignition that will not drop output as a function of rpm *fact*

You will never ever get any inductive ignition that will run a true race spark plug of the coldest heat range from cold start *fact*

You will never ever get any inductive ignition that will fire 50% excess fuel as required in a turbo car, let alone any type of water injection system *fact*

CDI DO NOT create "electrical noise" unless it is a very poor install or fitted by someone who has no idea of CDI systems

But there are times when a CDI is just not needed. Hell, I picked up a whopping 3rwhp when I added a $1200 M&W box. Is that REALLY worth it? NO

rice racing my question is the second jen turbo came with inductive coils why didnt they use a cdi ,i do understand electrical theory and yes a cdi can magnify spark or a msd 6a box will multi spark (only to 3k) .i have ran my old repu on the dyno for testing with and without 6a boxes and there was no hp difference .that was a streetport 13b ,holly 600 ,road race header with dual 2" ,166hp to rear wheels at 7500 rpm.now as for turbo application on a rotary i have not tried a cdi yet. with the stock coils on my rx2 i am at 347 hpp on a mustang dyno at 10 psi.7500 rpm.aem coil is 118 mj ,up to 3.2ms

That's becuase MSD's suck.... it's short for My Spark Died. Your car is probably at such a low BHP rating that a CDI ignition system wouldn't make a difference. It's like putting a triple carbon disc on a stock n/a car.

[RICE RACING]

brian,

how big is your signature block!!!

Jesus!!!

[RETed]

That's becuase MSD's suck.... it's short for My Spark Died. Your car is probably at such a low BHP rating that a CDI ignition system wouldn't make a difference. It's like putting a triple carbon disc on a stock n/a car.

I tend to agree with this statement.
There are two extremes to which this would be the case...
1) The tune is so bad (i.e. too much fuel, ignition timing not optimal) that changing the spark quality does very little to affect power.
2) The tune is optimized for combustion - i.e. BMEP is maxed out - that changing the spark quality does very little to affect power.


It's too bad that the thread took a turn away from the "coils" discussion. :(

I'll be moving this thread shortly into the Rotary Tech subsection, as this is only remotely connected to FC's.
There is a lot of good info in here.


-Ted

[RICE RACING]

Has anyone here (besides me) actually "tested" coil secondary voltage+current+dwell under full load and rpm on any inductive set up being preached?

^I'd love to hear from you^

The debate/problem is this simple, most people end up doing engine calibrations to suit the ignition system limits and that of related items when running inductive. On CDI you have no such issues in my experience :conehead: < This problem is exagerated with rpm and higher rotor chamber pressures as some here would know.

[RICE RACING]

A customer of mine back in 2003 or so ran a FC motor with Microwreck ECU (inductive ignitors) with Bosch HEC coils in sequential fire mode (4 coil set up). This set up was water injected for our national dyno competition. This set up would not run without ICE primary voltage ignition boosters. Even so it still needed to run warm up spark plugs then get swapped out for race plugs at the competition........ needless to say it set a record for the most power achieved for a 13B and still drive off the dyno and back home ;) until I engineered & tuned a set up that reset the record wich still stands to this day a few years later, but on a Full CDI equipped car.

Over the years I have tried many inductive set ups, coils, boosters, you name it and in my world of mega power turbocharged monsters they just never ever cut it without some type of limit being reached to get them to fire. Hence my very strong aversion to anything running them, since they just don't work in my experience.

I remember back in my first ever experiments of water injection in 1991 and I almost gave up on the whole idea, cause I just could not get it to work at all using Bosch 008 ignitors and coils. Lucky for me I learned more about ignition systems and realized just how limited non CDI types are. Again for some applications they can be fine, for the OP it may suffice for what he wants to do with his T2 motor and set up.

[TitaniumTT]

brian,

how big is your signature block!!!

Jesus!!!

Apparently about 1/2 the size it'll be shortly ;)

Has anyone here (besides me) actually "tested" coil secondary voltage+current+dwell under full load and rpm on any inductive set up being preached?

^I'd love to hear from you^

The debate/problem is this simple, most people end up doing engine calibrations to suit the ignition system limits and that of related items when running inductive. On CDI you have no such issues in my experience :conehead: < This problem is exagerated with rpm and higher rotor chamber pressures as some here would know.

I haven't gone that far, no. I did build a harness so that I could quickly swap out entire ignition systems. So, ran my Bosch Motorsport coils on the dyno. Ran it rich to the point of misfire. Shut it down, strapped on the M&W, ran it again. Cleaned up the misfire, idled like shit, and made an extra 4 rwhp or something like that. So, is it worth the extra $1000.... not on my car it isn't. But that's all pump and 17psi. 30psi and water injected.... well if the coil can't fire the mix, than it's not the right part for the job. That's what I'm getting at. In the real world there are other factors at play other than, this is the best. It has to be used. Bone stock n/a rebuild..... you gonna throw ID injectors in there? Hell no, they can't be utilized so why bother?

I'm gonna go double my sig block now :rofl:

[RICE RACING]

I remember we spoke about the idle in another thread last year, that can be an issue, but I have found it is system specific (though I have only used about 5 or 7 different CDI brands so can't comment on them all).

You are right, its a horses for courses question. If its down to money and the OP only wants 10psi then he would be mad to fit up a CDI system..... agree.

[mattallac]

oh rr you type with angry fingers ,and in my words the word FUCK was not in the sentence .with that said ,topic stated 10 psi of boost ,so for application induction is the way ,in my dyno shop cdi is only needed for high boost .by reading all you have wrote very carefully i am not in a pissing match with you and appreciate what your Fact is ,but the heart of the matter is application is key,some products are valid for certain situations and when they are not needed its a waste of money. and what do the letters OP mean ?

[RETed]

rice racing my question is the second jen turbo came with inductive coils why didnt they use a cdi ,

RICE RACING mentioned the obvious one about added cost...
There's another reason: reliability.
Most CDI system run in series in terms of electrical circuits.
If the CDI circuit dies, you lose that ignition channel.
This is where the simplicity of inductive (ignition) coils is an advantage.

You have alternate system like the HKS Twin Power, which runs in parallel to your igntion system.
If the HKS Twin Power dies, you don't lose your ignition channel(s).
This advantage can also be a problem...
Sometimes you don't realize that the Twin Power isn't functioning, and this can lead to trouble.
If your set-up requires that you have the Twin Power functioning correctly under full power, and it isn't...well, think about all the fuel being shot into the engine with spark blow-out...

BTW, OP = "Original Poster", which is the person who started the thread, which in this case is...you.


-Ted

[RETed]

Thread moved from 2nd gen section...


-Ted

[RICE RACING]

I only wish I was there so i could take you boys for a ride in RICESP :auto:
Just came back from a drive now and it's a fucking rocket :coolgleamA: I throw a metric ass load of water through the engine, 11 heat range pure race plugs, lots of fuel, and its a gem, pulls through to 8000rpm with over 0.6g applied to your back at almost 100mph! and only on 20psi boost. Intake air temperature in the top half of the manifold is less than 40 deg C (on a 20 deg C ambient day) and all using the stock SP "small" inter cooler.

I'll post up the CDI system I use for others benefit, been running this for over 3 years now with zero reliability issues, idles great, runs anything you can imagine. I did allot of tests on inductive and scrapped it long ago > http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1590&page=15 post #142 onwards

Few pics of my ignition set up below

Here is pics of the RR COP CD system mounted up (CDI boxes next to battery on custom holder), wiring harness and COP's installed.

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/9753/img2502cdisystem.jpg

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/5373/img2497cdisystem.jpg

http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/8711/img2500cdisystem.jpg

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/7416/img2501cdisystem.jpg

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/3152/img2524cdisystem.jpg

http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/4651/img2517cdisystem.jpg

[TitaniumTT]

I remember we spoke about the idle in another thread last year, that can be an issue, but I have found it is system specific (though I have only used about 5 or 7 different CDI brands so can't comment on them all).

You are right, its a horses for courses question. If its down to money and the OP only wants 10psi then he would be mad to fit up a CDI system..... agree.

Yes we did. The only REAL CDI system that I have experience with is the M&W and the idle sucked. I've got a decent sized street port and the Bosch inductive coils that I have will idle the thing smoothly down to ~800-850 rpm. I generally keep the idle ~1000 though. With the M&W it was lopy, couldn't really hold it. Granted I only spent a few minutes dicking around with it but I did adjust all the idle settings, play around with the restrike option in the software. it got better, but nothing like the inductive coils.

But like you said a year ago, it could be system specific. I just don't have the experience to comment on all of them. The M&W picked up power, fired what the Bosch's couldn't, but the idle quality suffered.

I only wish I was there so i could take you boys for a ride in RICESP :auto:
Just came back from a drive now and it's a fucking rocket :coolgleamA: I throw a metric ass load of water through the engine, 11 heat range pure race plugs, lots of fuel, and its a gem, pulls through to 8000rpm with over 0.6g applied to your back at almost 100mph! and only on 20psi boost. Intake air temperature in the top half of the manifold is less than 40 deg C (on a 20 deg C ambient day) and all using the stock SP "small" inter cooler.

You should run meth instead of water, ditch the intercooler and see below ambient temps ;) :rofl::lol::smilielol5:

[RETed]

Okay, I killed that last one cause it doesn't contribute anything to this technical thread.
Most of you are aware that we already have a BDC bashing thread in The Lounge, so you're more than welcome to post to your heart's content in there.
If you want, I can move that reply to The Lounge if you want me to...

And now back to our regularly scheduled programming...


-Ted

[mattallac]

Has anyone heard of denso n390 coils and are the igniters built in?