oil

[mattallac]

i have read every thread on oil and would like to know if total quarts 9000 5w 30(100%synthetic)is a good oil for a fc turbo charged .i looked for elf evolution sxr 5w30 and it sent me to total brand .dont know if they are one in the same company .i am still breaking my motor in with castrol 10w30.any good advice would be appreciated matt

[Force13b]

5w30 is to thin for a rotary even a NA rotary.
What oil should I use in the FC?
According to Mazda:
In starting and operating temperatures below 20F, use 5W30
In starting and operating temperatures between 0F and 80F, use 10W30.
In starting and operating temperatures above 30F, use 20W50

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129102&stc=1&d=1226414676

[My5ABaby]

Depending on where you live, I doubt you'll need a 5w30. I daily drove my FC with 20w50 in TN during the winter with starting temps around 0.

[vex]

i have read every thread on oil and would like to know if total quarts 9000 5w 30(100%synthetic)is a good oil for a fc turbo charged .i looked for elf evolution sxr 5w30 and it sent me to total brand .dont know if they are one in the same company .i am still breaking my motor in with castrol 10w30.any good advice would be appreciated matt

Did you read this:

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=7344

[PercentSevenC]

I like to post this in every oil thread:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

[mattallac]

well first of all thanks for the posts on my question ,very informative.second elf makes an oil that is for rx7 and rx8 that is a 5w 30 .and lastly what about the additive zddp that has been taken out of oil (friction modifier ) only in race oils now?

[C. Ludwig]

I like to post this in every oil thread:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

Nice!

As for ZDDP, it's a good think, unless you're running a catalytic converter. Those additives are very effective in wear prevention for metal parts that slide against each other. Solid lifters in a piston motor are generally the most common reference, but there is lots of metal on metal movement in a rotary. Because of this I've switched to recommending off-road "race" oils for all engines not using cats. For years we used and recommended diesel oils, because they still contained a higher percentage of ZDDP than other on-road oils. However, diesels oils have long ago been stripped of the additives as well.

[Raksj04]

I was told that sythenics are bad because they will mess up the oil injectors, i need to change my oil because i am using 10w30 here in FL

[mattallac]

so to conclude from all my reading in a 70 degree environment 10w 30 race oil would be the best choice.but i would still like to know about the elf/total brand oil.

[RICE RACING]

Fuck me there is some shit in the Ferrari chat thread!

Just goes to show a Medical Doctor knows FUCK ALL about engineering, no matter how much ca$h he makes or typing speed he has or cars he own's :smilielol5:

You dont need a degree is arse sex to know that the physically thinner an oil, the more metal to metal contact there is!

Mobil 1 5W-50 is a great oil to use in a Rotary, stay away from the "thinner grades" as promoted by our Ferrari Chat Dr cock wash BDC & HC styled posting rant.

[Raksj04]

Is Mobil 1 going to hurt my Oil injectors?

[RETed]

so to conclude from all my reading in a 70 degree environment 10w 30 race oil would be the best choice.but i would still like to know about the elf/total brand oil.

This place is mostly a USA-centric member base.
It's very hard to get those brands in the USA.
This is probably why you are not getting too much feedback to your questions.

Where are you from?


-Ted

[Force13b]

Mobil 1 5W-50 is a great oil to use in a Rotary, stay away from the "thinner grades" as promoted by our Ferrari Chat Dr cock wash BDC & HC styled posting rant.
I don't think i have ever seen 5w-50 state side
Is Mobil 1 going to hurt my Oil injectors?

No it wont hurt your oil injectors it was actually recommended by MazdaComp USA to use synthetic.

I personally don't use synthetic because i change my oil so often (1500 miles or less) it wouldn't be worth the money. If i was driving in a harsh environment, drag racing a lot, endurance race i'd go synthetic.

[mattallac]

i live in northern california

[PercentSevenC]

Rice: everything I've ever read on the subject written by actual engineers more or less agrees with the FerrariChat article. It's just that Dr. Haas explains it better than most, which is why I like to post that particular article. Care to provide a more convincing argument than just juvenile name-calling?

[RICE RACING]

Rice: everything I've ever read on the subject written by actual engineers more or less agrees with the FerrariChat article. It's just that Dr. Haas explains it better than most, which is why I like to post that particular article. Care to provide a more convincing argument than just juvenile name-calling?

Unlike Ferrari chat Dr Nobody, I actually build and rebuild my own engines and have seen what "light weight oil" does to them long term.

You just need to ask yourself this question, why does a Ferrari Engineer specify 10x-60 for a Ferrari Enzo as listed in his "article". :dunno:

Less shear plane loading through low viscosity of course will lower oil temperature, it will also greatly increase oil consumption (ever seen a F1 smoke show, or wonder why they consume 6lt! of oil in a 200 mile race!!!!), it also vastly reduces the oil wedge separating steel and white metal, send any oil in for an analysis and you will want to punch Dr Nobody Ferrari chat in the face for his SHIT HOUSE ADVICE styled BDC & HC rant waste of finger typing prowess.


Believe what you want its the internet, just cause some **** does the worlds longest post and uses contradictory evidence while ignoring his own marks "opposite advise" is just fucking mad!

Oil 101!!! LOL

Pick what you want, good luck!

[RETed]

i live in northern california

Interesting...

I've seen the "elf" brand of oil, but it's not easily available versus some of the other brands - i.e. Castrol, Mobil1.

Any reason why you're insisting on using this brand?
Almost all of the other name brands work well - i.e. Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc.


-Ted

[vex]

VR1 call it done.