Belt/Leaking Cooling help please!?

[anthonypunt]

(88 N/A GTU)Alright, awhile ago i switched my alternator belt with a new one cause the old one was looking quite aged i kept having to tighten the belt because it was squeeling, i reached the end of the adjusment bar, so i bought a slightly shorter one, installed it to what i thought was tight, it started squeeling again by the next day, so i tightened it a bit more, and since then the cooling fan has been speeding up with the RPMs and going extremely fast (and loud) and will slow down with the RPMs also. Now i parked at work in the parking ramp, which has the car leaning to the left with the down hill of the ramp, and there was coolant leaking out of the very center towards the back of the engine area, but when parking on a flat surface it doesnt do that. So i backed the belt off to the point where its squeeling again, but the fan is still speeding up/slowing down with the engine.

What's going on!? I'm so puzzled!

thanks!

[Pete_89T2]

From what you're telling us, it sounds like your water pump is shot, and is leaking from the shaft seal. Fix requires a new/rebuilt pump.

Also, it's not completely clear to me what you were describing regarding the fan, but I'm assuming you have the stock mechanical fan, and you may have a fan clutch problem too. A defective fan clutch, and/or belts being tensioned too tight can trash a water pump in short order.

Fix the water pump first, and make sure the belts are tensioned per the factory shop manual (FSM). To check the fan clutch, with the engine shut off and cold, try to rotate the fan by hand. It's supposed to freewheel easily, with a bit of drag you'll feel (that's the viscous fluid in the clutch). Next run the car and get it good & hot, shut it down and repeat this test. This time you should feel significantly more drag trying to rotate the fan, but it won't be locked up - you'll still be able to turn it, but it will feel like molases. If it doesn't pass these tests, your fan clutch is bad and needs to be replaced.

[anthonypunt]

So it sounds like to me that i killed my water pump by tightening the belt to tight =[


The fan speeds up when i accelerate, and slows down when i decelerate, i.e., speed goes up and down with the engine RPMs, and where do i find the correct tension for the belt?

[RETed]

I have to ask...

Are you still running the stock air pump and belt?


-Ted

[anthonypunt]

Yeah I guess so?

[TitaniumTT]

Your fan clutch is shot

[anthonypunt]

So its for sure that the water pump is bad? What parts do I need to fix that, also what parts do I need to fix the fan clutch?

[TitaniumTT]

A waterpump and gasket, and a fan clutch

[anthonypunt]

Not to be a pest, but this is my only ride and I don't got a lot of money to put into it right now, but that is for sure the problem? And how important is the fan clutch to replace?

[TitaniumTT]

A-If coolant is leaking from the waterpump, than the waterpump is bad
B-Fuctioning fan clutch is important
C-Rotaries should not be used as daily's

[Pete_89T2]

Not to be a pest, but this is my only ride and I don't got a lot of money to put into it right now, but that is for sure the problem? And how important is the fan clutch to replace?

Ok, before doing anything else, PLEASE get yourself an FSM for use & reference, you'll need it. They are available online in .pdf format for free, here's an old link from my favorites that still may have them hosted: http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_gen/

To verify your water pump is shot, here's what you need to do:

1. With the engine off & cold, feel around the water pump pulley & directly under it for leaked coolant. If it's wet, and it can't be explained by anything else (such as hosing your engine down), then it's safe to say the pump is shot.

2. If it was dry, it could mean the leaking coolant evaporated, so go to a local auto parts store that rents/loans out specialized tools to find out for sure. Advance auto parts loans tools for free - you pay a CC deposit, and get 100% of it back if you bring back the tool undamaged. Ask for a cooling system pressure tester. Benefit of doing this is it will help you isolate ANY external leaks you may have in your cooling system. Bring it home & read the instructions that came with it. To test, remove your radiator cap (engine off & cold) and replace it with the appropriate tester cap that fits. Pump up the tester to about 14~15 psi (it has a gauge), look around for gushing leaks and wait. If your water pump is shot it will be obvious - coolant will be squirting out of it, as it will from anything else in your system that is leaky (hoses, etc.). If you don't see anything leaking, keep it pressurized for a good 15 minutes & wait. If pressure reading holds that long, nothing is leaking anywhere, internally or externally.

3. I explained how to test the fan clutch a few posts back.

[anthonypunt]

Alright, i did the test on the fan and it IS good, i had a mechanic look at the water pump and he said it is DEFINITELY good also. Where could the magic leaking coolant be coming from that's coming from towards the back of the engine near the firewall? (atleast thats what it looked like from where the coolant was on the ground) I could not see any coolant or any residue anywhere on the engine?


And thanks so much to everyone who has helped me out on this! It will only be my everyday driver for about one more month, then i will be buy a newer (05+) car that will be my winter/everyday car

[JL1RX7]

Ok you have an S4 right? If so you could have the heater hose that goes under the intake manifold that is hard to see much less get to. That could have busted. Also on FC's look on the driver's side for the heater hose. Run's near the oil filter. That one is famous for breaking since when you change the oil you will get some on it. I tend to replace them every two years or so just because.