S5 Oversized Stat Gear Bearings?

[JustJeff]

I was at my local Mazda dealership ordering stationary gear bearings for a S5 13B and the parts guy found two different types. Standard and Oversized.

The parts guy did not provide many any hyphens between the numbers so I'm typing them identical to what he gave me.
Standard
082010502B

Oversized
N35010E02 (though I can't read his writing and it might be N350010EO2)

I found that I need standard through surfing Mazdatrix website. Their part numbers are partially reversed but identical other than that.

Mazdatrix
10-502B-0820

I expected the dealership's standard bearing to match and I expected the oversized to be the 3 window race bearing. But the part numbers don't match.

Mazdatrix 3 window
11114


I'm just trying to figure out what the oversized bearing is? Obviously I see the N350 in the part number. I'm also looking at the FD bearings that are offered in different thickness. The thinner FD bearings have part numbers 10-E040....very similar to the 10E02 at the end of the oversized part number.

[RETed]

FC stat gears bearings only come in two sizes from Mazda - standard and oversized.
Oversized is for those who have a "clearanced" eccentric shaft due to machining in case of warpage / damage.
Unless you have the tools to "mic" the eccentric shaft - v-blocks, run-out gauge, calipers, etc. - just get the standard bearings.
Most people should just get the standard bearing.

Mazda went one step further with the FD stat gear bearings - that's why there are several (+ and -) to account for variations in production tolerances and for slight clearancing machining.
(I think it's something like one or two undersized, one standard, and the rest are oversized.)
I guess they thought clearances on the stat gears was that much more critical on the 13B-REW engines...


-Ted

[RETed]

The parts guy did not provide many any hyphens between the numbers so I'm typing them identical to what he gave me.
Standard
082010502B

Oversized
N35010E02 (though I can't read his writing and it might be N350010EO2)

I found that I need standard through surfing Mazdatrix website. Their part numbers are partially reversed but identical other than that.

Mazdatrix
10-502B-0820


I used to know this by heart, but memory fails me...

All Mazda parts are grouped by:

XXXX - YY - ZZZZ

So "082010502B" is "0820-10-502B".
YY = location of part, which, in this case, 10 = engine
"0820" is year / model designation? Since it's 4 numeric, this means application over several years / models?
"502B" is the sub part # under "10" = engine.
The "B" at the engine is a revision letter, which just means it supercedes an "A" part.

So "N35010E02" is "N350-10-E02".
"N350" is 1989 - 1992 RX-7.
"10" = engine
"E02" = sub part # under "10" = engine.

Mazdatrix just rearranges the Mazda PN's for easier sorting...
"10-502B-0820" is...
"10" = engine
"502B" = sub part # under "10" = engine
"0820" = year / model designation

We got a Mazda parts tech in the house? :)
j9df3s still around? :D


-Ted

[JustJeff]

FC stat gears bearings only come in two sizes from Mazda - standard and oversized.
Oversized is for those who have a "clearanced" eccentric shaft due to machining in case of warpage / damage.
Unless you have the tools to "mic" the eccentric shaft - v-blocks, run-out gauge, calipers, etc. - just get the standard bearings.
Most people should just get the standard bearing.

Mazda went one step further with the FD stat gear bearings - that's why there are several (+ and -) to account for variations in production tolerances and for slight clearancing machining.
(I think it's something like one or two undersized, one standard, and the rest are oversized.)
I guess they thought clearances on the stat gears was that much more critical on the 13B-REW engines...


-Ted

I figured I'd need standard, I was just curious what oversized was and your answer is about what I expected. Thanks for the confirmation.



We got a Mazda parts tech in the house? :)
j9df3s still around? :D


-Ted

I was actually expecting j9df3s to be the first to answer :lol:

[TitaniumTT]

Buy renni gears/e-shaft ;)

MT part numbers aren't completely accurate to the Mazda OE part numbers. But after dealing with it for years, it's pretty easy to know which numbers they add to keep thier sorting in line.

Seriously, Front gear and bearing, $110, rear gear and bearing, $140. Stock bearings $25, hardened multi window that you get with the renni, $55. Soooooooo basically $140 would've ended all this hassell.

[JustJeff]

Buy renni gears/e-shaft ;)

MT part numbers aren't completely accurate to the Mazda OE part numbers. But after dealing with it for years, it's pretty easy to know which numbers they add to keep thier sorting in line.

Seriously, Front gear and bearing, $110, rear gear and bearing, $140. Stock bearings $25, hardened multi window that you get with the renni, $55. Soooooooo basically $140 would've ended all this hassell.

I looked around and there weren't any gears for sale at the time I was buying parts. Got my bearings for $50 and having them pressed isn't going to be expensive at all. I saved $90 from your estimates :D

That and I"m keeping the rebuild as simple and close to OEM as possible. When my finances improve I'll pick up a core engine and look to build something more fun. Once I have the car up and running on a reliable engine that frees me up to risk trying mods and other dangerous science.

[TitaniumTT]

I looked around and there weren't any gears for sale at the time I was buying parts. Got my bearings for $50 and having them pressed isn't going to be expensive at all. I saved $90 from your estimates :D

That and I"m keeping the rebuild as simple and close to OEM as possible. When my finances improve I'll pick up a core engine and look to build something more fun. Once I have the car up and running on a reliable engine that frees me up to risk trying mods and other dangerous science.

I think about my time.... you've spent alot of time dicking around with all of this. If it's more than 1.2hr, it's not worth it to me. I know where you're coming from though, but think about this, you can buy from Horror Freight a press and a kit that will allow you to do this yourself for ~$160

[JustJeff]

I think about my time.... you've spent alot of time dicking around with all of this. If it's more than 1.2hr, it's not worth it to me. I know where you're coming from though, but think about this, you can buy from Horror Freight a press and a kit that will allow you to do this yourself for ~$160

I've got no where to keep a press and I'd use it so rarely that it's not money well spent.

[TitaniumTT]

I don't need mine much either.... but when I need it.... I NEED it. Same goes for the tubing bender I'll be buying shortly

[JustJeff]

I don't need mine much either.... but when I need it.... I NEED it. Same goes for the tubing bender I'll be buying shortly

Good thing you're not handling my finances. So far rather than spend $50 and some time having someone else press my bearings, you have me spending $300 for RX8 gears and a press. :) :willy_nilly:

[TitaniumTT]

Good thing you're not handleing my logistics.... why would you need new RX8 gears with a new bearing already installed AND a press???? ;)

[j9fd3s]

I used to know this by heart, but memory fails me...

All Mazda parts are grouped by:

XXXX - YY - ZZZZ

So "082010502B" is "0820-10-502B".
YY = location of part, which, in this case, 10 = engine
"0820" is year / model designation? Since it's 4 numeric, this means application over several years / models?
"502B" is the sub part # under "10" = engine.
The "B" at the engine is a revision letter, which just means it supercedes an "A" part.

So "N35010E02" is "N350-10-E02".
"N350" is 1989 - 1992 RX-7.
"10" = engine
"E02" = sub part # under "10" = engine.

Mazdatrix just rearranges the Mazda PN's for easier sorting...
"10-502B-0820" is...
"10" = engine
"502B" = sub part # under "10" = engine
"0820" = year / model designation

We got a Mazda parts tech in the house? :)
j9df3s still around? :D


-Ted

hehe, would you believe i was in sweden?

that explanation is exactly right. just to add the application part of the part number, is the car it was originally engineered for, so 0820 is the R100 10A engine. N350 is the non turbo 89 rx7, etc etc. its not a hard and fast rule, there are exceptions.

10 is the engine block, 13 is intake exhaust, 15 is the cooling system etc etc.

the next 3 tell you what part it is, and in theory 15-200 is always a radiator, 13-111 is always an intake manifold gasket, but again, they change things here and there.

the supercession code is pretty meaningless to the consumer. sometimes the part is clearly different between A and B, sometimes it can be a price change. i have also seen revisions change the application part of the part number, the good example of this are the FD front iron housings. they start with an N3A1-10-whatever, and go to N3F1 and N3G1 as they get updated...

oh and an R or R-01 means its a remanufactured part

we got to tour the volvo factory, and you guys should see the press dies for the body parts, they are like small trucks! it takes something like 4 hours to switch dies in the press....