JhnRX7's Weekend Track Toy Build

[JhnRX7]

Well I have only recently discovered the true value of this forum and have been growing tired of all the BS on the other forum so I have decided to migrate over here and I am going to bring my build thread with me.

The old thread was really long, so I will just let most of the pictures do the talking this time...


The car:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4939839513_9afbe39896_b.jpg


Oil cooler install and ducting:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4083/4996101508_de6baf452c_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5002/5299490178_4e3a6e19d5_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5042/5298888303_1eb99b2a12_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5008/5298888463_cd9910f106_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5044/5298888555_07769463e7_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5128/5299490550_d8b6579e8d_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5123/5299490618_021b2b230f_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5378543652_9fe9045744_z.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5481617057_4ec3e05339_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5482215774_3265c532c8_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5179/5481616971_1b03c6a737_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5133/5481617407_dcc2671d12_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5482215850_c6144c2b25_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5253/5482216088_0365300972_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5481617571_bc6a19a687_b.jpg

[JhnRX7]

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4149/4995504893_943ee07f2e_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4132/4995498219_4acfb8036c_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4131/4996111412_3befeda131_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/4996104272_1022180af4_b.jpg

Stance Coilovers:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5137/5504841064_f81bb44393_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5095/5504840846_732f45459c_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5052/5504246499_b0df04c96c_b.jpg


Superpro + OEM Bushings:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5215/5463779404_1045a43610_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5292/5463779462_b00d861fba_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5054/5463207449_7d13f88c17_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5219/5463207235_a86b6cd44a_b.jpg

[JhnRX7]

Brake Caliper Rebuild:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5295/5463263831_6d2150dcf3_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5137/5463864062_5dff8abf79_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5132/5463263617_5db2bf31a7_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5095/5463263551_1e5f2a3454_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5096/5463863780_034e79f79e_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5052/5461897818_82c52038b8_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5463263245_cba7862356_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5095/5463863450_a5e98eae4f_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5175/5463863654_13544cfbac_b.jpg



Endless Competition Brake Pads:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5182/5624160571_c19153e4c2_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5301/5634025928_99ab7575a8_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5069/5634025968_44f5b452d8_b.jpg


Endless Street Pads in rear:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1389/5114186037_ca8ed37bb0_b.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1154/5114788574_86846c19e1_b.jpg

[JhnRX7]

New wheels with Advan AD08 tires 255's all 4 corners:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5051/5493422825_23486efc04_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5097/5494016262_2b751c55b2_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5019/5494016502_94d296e0d4_b.jpg

Weds all powdercoated getting shipped back to me right now :D:D:D:D

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5029/5663326480_e2bed6c61b_b.jpg

[JhnRX7]

And finally some shots from my first time on track back in October before all these mods... the source of the addiction!


http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1363/5114738252_041266c5f7_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4090/5114135851_288e38d946_b.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1068/5114136129_16171808b6_b.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1384/5114744878_a500e1241a_b.jpg



Photobomb complete! Thats all for now, I promise :lol:

[Herblenny]

NICE BUILD THREAD!! Car looks awesome in person too!

[RotorDad]

Welcome to the forum & great looking car BTW.

[AzureDrake]

Looks good. just out of curiosity, what color code is that, aura blue mica? Seeing the brake rebuilt kit reminds me of how much of a pain in the ass it was to get the new seals to seat with the piston and caliper correctly lol

[hades]

awesome build. I am hard and wet at the same time!

[JhnRX7]

haha thanks guys. The color is Electron Blue Metallic from a Corvette. Im looking forward to getting it back on the track for the first time this year... especially after taking it through the Dragon and feeling the new setup.

[TitaniumTT]

Welcome John! Glad to see you over here

NICE BUILD THREAD!! Car looks awesome in person too!

Yes it does, John was kind enough to lift her skirt for me, car is BEAUTIFUL and VERY well put together. All the little details are incredible, and there is definately a function over form but form is still VERY important theme. He beat me to the brake ducting though, exactely what I was thinking about doing.

[RXtacy]

Hey John as everyone said the car looks great in person. It was nice to meet you. Can't wait to see those Weds on there. It sucks that the powdercoater jerked you around. I loved the AD08's and stances on the dragon. Unbelievable grip. What settings were you running your dampers at on the dragon?

[JhnRX7]

Hey John as everyone said the car looks great in person. It was nice to meet you. Can't wait to see those Weds on there. It sucks that the powdercoater jerked you around. I loved the AD08's and stances on the dragon. Unbelievable grip. What settings were you running your dampers at on the dragon?


^this.

The AD08 and Stances were truly amazing. Exceeded my expectations by far.

I have 12k F and 10k R spring rates. I had the dampers set at 9F 8R clicks from full soft. I had initially started the weekend a little softer, but bumped them up a bit to counter-act some rubbing in the front.

It felt like the rear had a bit too much roll compared to the front, so I want to swap in a '93 sway bar (a bit stiffer than the 94's) to see how that helps.

[hades]

Did you design your own twin oil cooler installation? I don't see any expensive SS lines and AN fittings--bling bling that gets covered up anyway.

I like what you have done - if you made it do you mind sharing the what you did?

[JhnRX7]

The kit is a SakeBomb Garage oil cooler kit. Their 25 row track version. They have the option of using Aeroquip hose, braided nylon hose or SS braided hose. I went with the aeroquip to save a little bit of $$ and plus I absolutely HATE SS braided lines with a passion.

It comes with a Mocal thermostat, and all (bling bling) Mocal fittings to mate to a pair of fancy Setrab oil coolers. I really love the mocal fittings because they are black/grey unlike the ugly (IMO) red/blue fittings.

I used the same fittings and hose for my fuel system as well (but in -6).

[JhnRX7]

New alignment settings... take a look at how bad the front camber was :eek: The rear toe was not much better. However this was after i had dropped my front subframe and pulled all the suspension arms to replace the bushings and installed new toe links.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5308/5651718033_3d3017e71b_z.jpg



Also got the rear fenders rolled with help from Scrub.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5027/5691460265_fe18b55f20_z.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5270/5691460493_281e81b737_z.jpg

Should clear my 18x10 +20 rears.

[Gregory Casimir]

really nice build and welcome!

[RXtacy]

Nice job with the fender roller. Did you have any problem with paint cracking? I might have to shoot Dan a message see about borrowing that, as you saw the horrible rubbing I was getting on the drivers side :lol:

[diabolical1]

your car looks immaculate. i like it a lot!
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1384/5114744878_a500e1241a_b.jpg
bad ass shot!

[JhnRX7]

Nice job with the fender roller. Did you have any problem with paint cracking? I might have to shoot Dan a message see about borrowing that, as you saw the horrible rubbing I was getting on the drivers side :lol:


The driver side went great, but we had issues with the passenger side. That whole quarter panel had been replaced before and the spot welds would not cooperate... one of them actually split causing a noticeable crack on the outside. It is not too bad though. I plan to have them flared slightly by a body shop over the winter.


Anyway, my Wedssports finally arrived!!! :party:


I will be getting them mounted on Friday and you can be sure that there will be plenty of pics ;)


Until then, here are some shots I took after a fresh washing to get rid of all the dirt from DGRR:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2634/5705982698_d4b2fb85bd_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2225/5711528281_973505d32f_b.jpg

[TitaniumTT]

The kit is a SakeBomb Garage oil cooler kit. Their 25 row track version. They have the option of using Aeroquip hose, braided nylon hose or SS braided hose. I went with the aeroquip to save a little bit of $$ and plus I absolutely HATE SS braided lines with a passion.

It comes with a Mocal thermostat, and all (bling bling) Mocal fittings to mate to a pair of fancy Setrab oil coolers. I really love the mocal fittings because they are black/grey unlike the ugly (IMO) red/blue fittings.

I used the same fittings and hose for my fuel system as well (but in -6).

I used to like the SS lines, then I tried to re-use some of the re-useable fittings and was reminded harshly why use marine guys don't mix SS and AL.... I've since redone everything with the Nomex stuff. Much easier to use, more attractive in my opinion, and lighter, etc etc etc... I'm actually about to test their limits in a vacuum situation.

Where are you finding black/grey fittings? I might not want to know becuase I may have to re-redo them all :rofl:


http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2225/5711528281_973505d32f_b.jpg

FUCK YES!

I want to see yours and Toms shots from DGRRXI yesterday!

Oh by the way John, how would you feel about a trip to CT June 23rd? I'll split a local hotel room with ya the night before?

http://www.cartct.com/time_trial.shtml

[RXtacy]

The driver side went great, but we had issues with the passenger side. That whole quarter panel had been replaced before and the spot welds would not cooperate... one of them actually split causing a noticeable crack on the outside. It is not too bad though. I plan to have them flared slightly by a body shop over the winter.


I remember you showing me that line. I thought you might have done some more rolling after DGRR.
Anyway, my Wedssports finally arrived!!! :party:Can't wait to see them!

[Whizbang]

very nice indeed!

[JhnRX7]

Oh by the way John, how would you feel about a trip to CT June 23rd? I'll split a local hotel room with ya the night before?

http://www.cartct.com/time_trial.shtml


Any idea if this event has noise restrictions? I know Lime Rock does that, but sometimes they lift the restriction. My car should be fine, but Dan's car is probably too loud with the open wastegates.

Shoot Dan a PM about the fittings. They use them in the Sakebomb kits and he gets extras for me when I need them.

[JhnRX7]

Can't wait to see them!

:biggthumpup:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3151/5721219382_d31d2ce927_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2561/5721024384_c35fbb0161_b.jpg

There will be plenty more pics coming soon :)

[speedjunkie]

Loving those wheels. Very nice build overall though. Wow.

[TitaniumTT]

Any idea if this event has noise restrictions? I know Lime Rock does that, but sometimes they lift the restriction. My car should be fine, but Dan's car is probably too loud with the open wastegates.

Shoot Dan a PM about the fittings. They use them in the Sakebomb kits and he gets extras for me when I need them.

I know CART follows the good neighbor policy so Dan's open wastegates probably wouldn't fly. Your car would be fine though. CART does bring their own sound monitoring shit, lemme shoot them a PM and see what thier noise limits are for LimeRock. Does Dan know how loud his car is in SPL?

Cool! THanks.... I'll shoot him a PM about the fittings

-Brian

[JhnRX7]

moar pics


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5204/5723853365_0af9331202_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3637/5722750998_cbd4f70409_b.jpg

[RXtacy]

Wheels look great man. Fitment is spot on. Are you getting any rubbing at all?

[JhnRX7]

Wheels look great man. Fitment is spot on. Are you getting any rubbing at all?


Thanks. It rubs on the passenger rear slightly when I hit bumps. Turns out it is because I did not roll enough of the lip. I need to extend the roll from the 1:00 position to the 2:00 position.

[MaczPayne]

Are those AD08's? How do you like them?

[JhnRX7]

Are those AD08's? How do you like them?

yep. Advan AD08 255's on all four corners. I absolutely LOVE them! I mounted them (on a different set of wheels) for the first time just before DGRR and I got to test them out on the Dragon. I was thoroughly impressed. The grip was unbelievable, but the best part is they are easy to drive at the limit. They let you know when you are getting too close and dont just let go on you.



Also, to update the thread a little...

This year's DGRR was a trial run to shake down the car before any track days. It was the first time I had a chance to really push the car since the winter build. The motor performed flawlessly, however I had not done much as far as engine related modifications. Just some tweaking to my maps.

The drive down gave me alot of time to test out PFC boost control. I got rid of my Greddy Profec B Spec-II and used the solenoid along with the PowerFC to control boost. I have the OEM fog light switch wired up as a Hi / Low boost switch. I love this, because I dont want my interior filled with excess gauges and gadgets. Anyway, I found that the PFC does a better job at controlling creep than the Profec did, however I got slightly better response with the Profec. I am currently am getting creep in the taller gears because I am trying to limit the boost to 10 psi and with the amount of air that my ported engine flows even the ported wastegate cannot keep up. Its fine though as I have tuned for the creep and I will be upgrading to a three bar map sensor in a week or two and turning up the boost.

On the roads leading up to the Dragon and the Dragon itself I got a chance to really test out the tires suspension and brakes. As I mentioned earlier, I was very impressed with the tires. However, what was just as impressive were the brakes. The stopping power was incredible and the modulation night and day improvement over my old Hawk HP+. The Hawks felt like I only had two pressures, on or off. These Endless ME22 Competition Pads really responded well to pedal input and I could really feel the threshold approaching and control it well.

On my first run of the Dragon I was on the brakes VERY hard the entire time and on the second to last turn I felt the pedal stiffen up and I started to loose bite. I parked the car at the turnaround spot (without ebrake applied) and let the car cool down. It appears that I overheated the rotors. I removed the pads when I got home and took pictures to send to the Endless tech. They informed me that there was no sign of the pad being overheated so it must have been the rotor. The dragon is particularly hard on brakes because you are hard on the brakes non-stop turn after turn without much cooling time between braking zones. Also it is relatively low speeds so my brake ducts would not have been providing much cooling unlike in a track environment when the car sees 90-100MPH between braking zones. In addition to the rotors overheating the first turn on the run back i found that the fluid had boiled while sitting and I had to pump them to bring the brakes back. I have since installed Ti backing plates to reduce the heat transfer through the pads to the pistons while sitting in the paddock. I also have some plans to provide some additional airflow to the brake ducts which i will post once I start working on it.

and another shameless picture of the car, because I love my new wheels so much :drool5:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2603/5722750840_b58ee29a97_b.jpg

[afgmoto1978]

All you need now is one of my CF splitters.:coolgleamA:

[MaczPayne]

Nice, I'm running the older AD07's on my car and they have really surprised me. Got them on a whim for $500 brand new, in 255/40/17. I may give the 08's a try when I go through these!

[RXtacy]

+1 for the AD08's. I was also running them at DGRR and was very impressed.

[JhnRX7]

With track days coming up in June I got a hold of some AP temp paint so I can see what is really going on with my rotors and ducts.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2581/5788888672_c01c3f96f2_z.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5109/5788888804_4025246c9d_z.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3547/5788334189_66424c44b3_z.jpg

and for more track data analysis, I split a Racelogic Performance Box with a couple friends. The performance box uses GPS signal and accelerometer to calculate lap times including split times and predictive lap times as well as cornering and lateral G's. It should be a good tool to help improve my driving. All the data can be uploaded with the included software and analyzed.

[RX SE7EN]

Sick dude, love the new rims.

[JhnRX7]

Update:

I attended my first track event of the year this past weekend. It was at NJMP on the Lightning track. This was my second event and my first time on this track. After I learned the line, I really enjoyed this track.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2403/5827249626_ebcb5f1fb8_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bobmacmillan/5827249626/)

The car performed flawlessly, and inspires confidence... however I still need to get comfortable pushing the car to the limits. I was short shifting and partial throttling in areas where I could be flat out. With more seat time I should be pushing the car harder.

I triggered the green and orange temp paint, but not the pink so rotor temps were somewhere between 560C and 610C. I did not experience any fade or braking issues what-so-ever.

I used the Performance Box on the last session of the weekend and my best lap time was a 1:25.33. The performance box also displays split times and uses all your best splits to determine your "ideal lap" which was a 1:24.85. The data shown below displays speed, cornering G's and lap time difference of my fastest 4 laps.

Screenshot of Racelogic Performance Box Circuit Tools software:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3081/5833265738_f562439c62_b.jpg


Video of one random clean lap. I will be uploading more videos this week. I am also going to try out the TrackVision software to overlay my Performance Box data onto the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1vpuWi9aDOk&hd=1

1vpuWi9aDOk

I signed up for another event at NJMP (Thunderbolt track) on July 1st. The event is organized by “Track Daze”. If anyone else (Brian…) wants to join there is space left and it is on the cheaper side for a track day.

https://www.trackdaze.com/index.php?option=com_registrationpro&view=event&Itemid=81&did=19&shw_attendees=1

[tweiss3]

What front bumper is that?

[JhnRX7]

What front bumper is that?



Mazdaspeed GT-C

[JhnRX7]

Video from last Friday at NJMP. I was able to overlay the data from the Performance box onto GoPro video :)

ntkROvhwFU0

[TitaniumTT]

NICE!!! We've got to get to the track together ;)

[Herblenny]

Like the wheels!!

[93rx7r1]

Car looks at home on the track! Hopefully one of these days I'll get my rx7 to the point to where I can come along on some track days with you John.

[JhnRX7]

My new DD / Tow vehicle..... My FD is just too reliable and I was getting bored :lol:

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6008/5948331828_f87d344399_z.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6122/5947021748_a3e113c7a5_z.jpg

[RXtacy]

Range Rover, the only vehicle that might spend more time on jack stands then RX-7's :lol:

[wutangben]

john, you are really inspiring me to get project going. i bought a set of those SA60M's for my FD earlier this year. ran into your car while google image searching FD's with those wheels and then accidentally fell in love with the GT-C bumper. never realized your car was stateside until recently.

sooooo, hopefully you won't be upset knowing that your car may have an evil twin in the distant future.

i just started doing some track events this year in my S13 mainly for some seat time. hopefully, i'll have some good experience under my belt for when the rx-7 is ready. definitely caught the road racing bug.

keep comin' with those updates!

Ben

[JhnRX7]

Update!

....Nothing to update :lol:

The FD has been great since the completion of my winter build. It has given me zero problems and it is an absolute blast to drive on track (street not so much). I plan on just running it as is for a while, the only thing that needs attention is the front bumper needs to be replaced due to damage it has sustained over the past 6 or so years.

Unfortunately my summer track events got put on hold because I got sent down to Puerto Rico for work. I am on a 6 month assignment until the end of January. Although, for now I am not really missing the track too much....

The most beautiful beach I have ever been to
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6090/6099927098_be95ff0777_b.jpg

...It even had a tank!
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6066/6099379839_c1fc0636e2_b.jpg

The caves
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6084/6099379169_4395ca508b_b.jpg

The rainforrest
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6089/6099927702_7819476cee_o.jpg


PR has it all! Next on my list is to find the drag races so I can see some crazy rotaries!


john, you are really inspiring me to get project going. i bought a set of those SA60M's for my FD earlier this year. ran into your car while google image searching FD's with those wheels and then accidentally fell in love with the GT-C bumper. never realized your car was stateside until recently.

sooooo, hopefully you won't be upset knowing that your car may have an evil twin in the distant future.

i just started doing some track events this year in my S13 mainly for some seat time. hopefully, i'll have some good experience under my belt for when the rx-7 is ready. definitely caught the road racing bug.

keep comin' with those updates!

Ben

Glad to hear you caught the road racing bug... it really is addicting!

As long as you dont paint your car blue we will be ok :squint: haha

[wutangben]

As long as you dont paint your car blue we will be ok :squint: haha

no worries, going white.

that sucks about your bumper, it looked fine in the pictures? you going to try to source another GTC?


and just curious, how do you like the 10" wheels up front? do you regret not going with the 18x9 +23? what size tires are you running? any fitment issues?

thanks

[prrex4ever]

Beautiful pics of Vieques In PR, looks like you had a great time.

[papsmagu]

john, great choice in wheels. car looks bad ass! congrats

[JhnRX7]

So after about two months down here on the island I FINALLY found some rotaries... they could not hide from me forever! :seeya:

I accidentally stumbled upon the "Dia Nacional del Mazda" which was basically a huge rotary show.

Everything I have heard about Puerto Rican's and their rotaries holds true, but the most surprising thing was the amount of pristine low mileage cars there were.

Some pics:
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6151/6187483788_5f848c5333_z.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6174/6187479970_a8a3179659_z.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6164/6187477114_b1cb2121f4_z.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6167/6186952105_fa4c77c52f_z.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6155/6187470892_76563b432d_z.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6153/6186945633_bec3159f00_z.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6156/6186941809_34d96fe067_z.jpg


Hopefully I can update this thread with some updates of my own car... but for now it sits in the garage waiting for me. I may be attending a track day one of the weekends I am home in October if I am lucky :driving:

[TitaniumTT]

Ya know, I was going to PM you about that event on 10/16 & 17.... I'm about ready to register, just need to get my tint pre-approved so I don't drive 3.5hrs just to get turned away. I may just swap rear hatchs... anywho..... John, if you could make that NJMP event it would be great to see you again.

[JhnRX7]

Yep, that's the event. I am 100% sure I will be there. I'm just not sure if they will let me drive or not. I have been speaking to the organizers about letting me sign up for just one day because I will be traveling back to Puerto Rico on Monday. They said they are not ready to open up single day sign up for anyone other than people with absolutely no experience. I should have just said I have never done an event before haha.

Regardless I will be there with a tech form, my helmet and my checkbook.

I know of two other FD's that are already signed up. What is the issue with the tint? I have not heard about this rule before, is this something specified by this group?

[TitaniumTT]

Yes it is. Mine is dark and I'm a little worried they'll turn me away. If you're in contact with Jeff, ask for Vic's email and they can get you through their whole pre-approval gig.... kinda retarded but whatever. Have you ever run @ NJMP before?

[DriFD3S]

I love this thread.

[RENESISFD]

Cant wait to see the rims in 2 weeks John

Hope they let you sign up for one day.

[wutangben]

sweet pics. hopefully they'll let you on the track.

not sure if you missed my questions before (don't wanna nag), but curious as to what tire sizes you're running on your wheels. do you have any fitment issues up front or regret not going with the 9" +23?

thanks

[JhnRX7]

sweet pics. hopefully they'll let you on the track.

not sure if you missed my questions before (don't wanna nag), but curious as to what tire sizes you're running on your wheels. do you have any fitment issues up front or regret not going with the 9" +23?

thanks

18"x10" +36 Front with 255/35/18 AD08's
18"x10" +20 Rear with 255/35/18 AD08's

Fronts fit perfectly with no rubbing issues at all. I would not change them at all.

Rears, are VERY close. Driver side does not rub at all, but passenger side rubs slightly due to an issue that occured when rolling that fender. That rear quarter panel had previously been replaced, and one of the tac welds broke when rolling preventing the ability to roll any further.

Ideally I would like to run 265's all around. The fronts MIGHT work, however there is no way the rears would work without flaring the fenders some.


and BTW... I saw that you got a brand new authentic Mazdaspeed GTC bumper. I officially hate you because mine is such a POS. That is all. :rofl:

[wutangben]

thanks for the info.

i keep hearing you say that, but your bumper/car seems to look damn good in pics. it's authentic right?

any tips before i destroy mine? you running a rebar?

[JhnRX7]

thanks for the info.

i keep hearing you say that, but your bumper/car seems to look damn good in pics. it's authentic right?

any tips before i destroy mine? you running a rebar?



HA! Its a replica that is about 7 or 8 years old now, so it has seen some abuse. It is a shitty no-name replica too so when I got it, it dident even come close to fitting. I spent probably about 20+ hours worth of body work making it fit, and it is still not right. It is actually about 1/4" to 1/2" too narrow so the fenders have to be pulled in which makes it so the headlights can never be aligned quite right.

I have lived with it for all these years, but I cant take it any longer. Im trying to find a used authentic one, or a good fitting replica (if that even exists). If you have any leads let me know. I have been browsing yahoo auctions Japan from time to time but the used ones in decent condition always seem to go for $1500+. Maybe I just have to suck it up and spend the money.

The covers are not authentic either, I purchased them from a member on the other forum who was making them a while back. However, they do look fine.

I do not have a re-bar, but I wish I did. The OEM should work with some trimming.

It looks good because I really only shoot my car from certain angles to hide the uglyness. :rofl:

See uglyness below.... Some of that cracking has turned into giant missing chunks :(

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5481617057_4ec3e05339_b.jpg

[wutangben]

oh man, all this time i thought yours was authentic. sneaky camera work! actually, the guy who i bought mine from changed his mind and needed to do some cutting to the bumper for what he plans on doing. he couldn't bring himself to cut the authentic one, so he bought a really good replica and sold me his... i'll have to dig up the name of that replica.

i think i counted 39 predrilled holes in this authentic one, and it came with all sorts of hardware and brackets. i was pretty blown away by the quality. i test fitted it with just two bolts in the top, and this is how it sat:

http://fototime.com/063BE1172A0EDEE/orig.jpg
(excuse the disgusting car behind it)

i think it's worth the money...

[wutangben]

Garage Kagotani is who makes the decent replicas, i think they're still $850-$950.

[JhnRX7]

Garage Kagotani makes a VERY similar bumper, but not quite the same... unless of course they also produce replicas of the GTC?

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a277/fc3stom/RX-7/Hiroki%20and%20WISE%20ONE/P1011140.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a277/fc3stom/RX-7/Hiroki%20and%20WISE%20ONE/P1011123.jpg


If it is not too much trouble, would you mind taking some more detailed pictures of everything that came with it and some shots of the predrilled mounting holes. Im curious to see the detail of how they bolt the signal cover on as well.

[wutangben]

wouldn't be much trouble at all. the signal covers only have 2 or 3 bolts at the top if i remember correctly. it also came with some double-faced tape, not sure if that's where that's supposed to be used.

maybe i'm wrong about the garage kagotani bumper, i'm just going off of what the guy told me. i'll ask him. i'm willing to bet that's the bumper he's referring to though.

i'll try to take some pics tonight.

[wutangben]

alright, you forced me to open up all the sealed stuff i got with the bumper. kinda glad i did it now.

diagrams!

http://www.fototime.com/19711B5B98FAC62/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/854B8C59918276E/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/2C9A4F3FFBEDA42/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/0AD18E189B5D7AC/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/C8B54293A8E4DA9/orig.jpg

[wutangben]

for the lens covers, there's one insert that goes in the bumper in the top corner. it just squeezes in the hole, then the long tiny screw threads in it. then there's a little tab that screws into the top middle part of the lens cover that goes in the rectangular slot of the bumper. the bottom has two clips that go on the bumper, and then there's the double faced foam-like tape that goes around the whole thing.

http://www.fototime.com/900D279EE582F70/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/350466C8942D9BD/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/A021960FA0DD550/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/F4E0AA6D2861855/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/7F964E1C448C0E1/orig.jpg

[wutangben]

license plate brackets which i haven't opened yet:

http://www.fototime.com/EC008712F36570E/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/84932A08CB8DC5F/orig.jpg

side vent grill appears to be glued or epoxied on
http://www.fototime.com/C86A3F06EF69784/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/CF840BCD4A20D6C/orig.jpg

decent look at all the mounting holes
http://www.fototime.com/C2DAE79566E2B79/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/C48C1B2D49491C4/orig.jpg

actually i can just send you a link to the album instead of junking up your thread. let me know.

[JhnRX7]

This is an excellent resource for me. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this.

[JhnRX7]

So after getting turned away from the track event two weeks ago at NJMP Lightening that TitaniumTT attended I managed to get squeezed into another event last weekend at Thunderbolt.

This particular event was more strict than all others that I have attended in that the Green group was restricted to no passing and they had a pace car out in front of everyone :icon_tdown: I was nice to just get back on track though.

Anyway, no data acquisition or videos this time, but here are some pics...


http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6109/6281823500_f202a32787_b.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6222/6281823292_45f764ec1d_b.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6103/6281305605_283ec5423e_b.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6038/6281305453_0d268d26d3_b.jpg

[speedjunkie]

Damn that looks good.

Also, I always wondered if the GTC front would go well with the Sanai sides, now I know haha. I've always loved the GTC front, and I have the whole Sanai kit on right now, but I'll try not to bite your style haha.

[wutangben]

maaaaaaaaaaaaaaan that looks good.

i really gotta get started on my build!

[RENESISFD]

That really sucks about not being able to pass. And a pace car? Really!? Car certainly looks great.


John

[JhnRX7]

Yep, it was pretty lame haha

another pic of my car not moving :-p

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6044/6304307441_c8325b14df_b.jpg

[TitaniumTT]

So after getting turned away from the track event two weeks ago at NJMP Lightening that TitaniumTT attended I managed to get squeezed into another event last weekend at Thunderbolt.

This particular event was more strict than all others that I have attended in that the Green group was restricted to no passing and they had a pace car out in front of everyone :icon_tdown: I was nice to just get back on track though.

Anyway, no data acquisition or videos this time, but here are some pics...

No passing and a pace car? Really?!?!?! Isn't that an instructor I see in your car? You guys need to come with me to roll with CART @ Limerock.... I doubt you'll have issues with noise restrictions, I never have, and they are pretty lax. All this lock down crap is one of the reasons I'm thinking about bailing on the PCA 3-day event.... that I don't want to be the only rotary in a sea of boxers

[QUOTE=JhnRX7;169430]
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6222/6281823292_45f764ec1d_b.jpg

I LOVE this pic, don't know why, think it's the color.

[arthur3328]

subscribed !

[need RX7]

hhttp://farm7.static.flickr.com/6222/6281823292_45f764ec1d_b.jpg

New desktop background! http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd320/noob5000000/emoticons/awesome.gif

[arthur3328]

love the car! great to talking to you!

[JhnRX7]

2012 Plans

So my assignment in Puerto Rico is scheduled to be finalized at the end of January. So in order to get the project moving when I get home I am going to start planning out everything that needs to be done now and order all the parts so they will be all ready.

This winter will be more focused on fine tuning and details as opposed to last winter when the car made a huge transformation.

First item on the list will be the front bumper. I have decided on the Pettit GTC replica. From everyone I have talked to and all the pictures I have seen it fits close to perfect. It is really my only option considering the amount I am willing to spend on this. This will be ordered shortly as they are made to order and could take up to a month to get.

Pettit fitment:
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/Brandon93RX7Pre-prepandbodyfitment001.jpg


Next item on the list will be a front splitter for the track. I am going to pick up a 4'x6' piece of Alumalite from a local supplier and use that as the main material. The other option is making the splitter out of wood, but I am going to try out the Alumalite first. This will be a consumable item that WILL get damaged so using the alumalite or wood is preferred over more expensive carbon fiber for now. Im starting to work out a plan to fabricate brackets that will not interfere with the ducting that I already have in place.

Alumalite:
http://www.signsforspokane.com/Portals/75467/images//substrate%20alumalite1.gif


One thing that I considered last winter while installing my bushings was adding zerk fittings. The general consensus is that they are not need with the SuperPro bushings so I decided not to install them. I never installed the SuperPro's on my front suspension arms, so those will be going in. While I am in there I am going to go ahead and install zerks anyway, could not hurt to lube the bushings every once in a while. I don't want any binding to occur.

Zerk Fitting on Chadwick's FD:
http://www.tweakit.com/rx7/zerk.jpg


After the suspension work I will need to get a new alignment. I plan on running slightly less camber this time around. Then I will be getting a corner balance as well.

For some finishing touches I plan on taking a whole bunch of parts to the powder coaters to get coated. The thing that really needs to get done is that giant sun reflector between my headlights AKA radiator shroud.

The last item will be sway bar mounts. I plan to upgrade sway bars in the near future, but before I do I need to get rid of the flimsy OEM mounts. I will probably get the beefed up mounts that RotorSports sells.


And as always... a new pic:

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6091/6352224092_1e303be7ce_b.jpg

[TitaniumTT]

2012 Plans

Next item on the list will be a front splitter for the track. I am going to pick up a 4'x6' piece of Alumalite from a local supplier and use that as the main material. The other option is making the splitter out of wood, but I am going to try out the Alumalite first. This will be a consumable item that WILL get damaged so using the alumalite or wood is preferred over more expensive carbon fiber for now. Im starting to work out a plan to fabricate brackets that will not interfere with the ducting that I already have in place.

Alumalite:

Hey John, not sure how much attention you paid to my belly pan last time we at the track, but I gotta say, I was surprised with how rigid it was when all was said and done. I used some plain 5052 .063 aluminum. There are a string of bolts around the front bumper, it travels all the way back to the subframe, and has a few pickup points in the center. When it's all snug and in place, I was surprised. I was expecting the need to box in some of the larger unsupported sections by riveting C channel in place, it just wasn't the case. I have no experience with the cored AL pieces, just the standard flat sheet.


After the suspension work I will need to get a new alignment. I plan on running slightly less camber this time around. Then I will be getting a corner balance as well.

This we should chat about :D

Aaaaaan tuning as well, correct? When I get some more details on dyno rental I will let you know. I'm sure something can be arranged though.

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6091/6352224092_1e303be7ce_b.jpg

:drool: Beautiful as always.

Hope all is warm where you are, it's dropping into the 30's up here

[JhnRX7]

Hey John, not sure how much attention you paid to my belly pan last time we at the track, but I gotta say, I was surprised with how rigid it was when all was said and done. I used some plain 5052 .063 aluminum. There are a string of bolts around the front bumper, it travels all the way back to the subframe, and has a few pickup points in the center. When it's all snug and in place, I was surprised. I was expecting the need to box in some of the larger unsupported sections by riveting C channel in place, it just wasn't the case. I have no experience with the cored AL pieces, just the standard flat sheet.

I did not get a chance to check out the under side in person, but I have seen pictures. I already have an undertray on my car that I like alot. I use the 3-piece carbon undertray from shine that was meant for the '99 spec bumper. That will be staying on my car most of the time, but I want a splitter that extends out past the bumper for track days. The part that I am worried about is the section that extends out past the bumper. That needs to be very rigid. Although it depends on how far out it extends.



This we should chat about :D

Aaaaaan tuning as well, correct? When I get some more details on dyno rental I will let you know. I'm sure something can be arranged though.



:drool: Beautiful as always.

Hope all is warm where you are, it's dropping into the 30's up here

We will talk. This will be happening come spring time.

And yeah its warm down here... The dashboard read 100F when I got in my car to go to lunch yesterday haha

[TitaniumTT]

I did not get a chance to check out the under side in person, but I have seen pictures. I already have an undertray on my car that I like alot. I use the 3-piece carbon undertray from shine that was meant for the '99 spec bumper. That will be staying on my car most of the time, but I want a splitter that extends out past the bumper for track days. The part that I am worried about is the section that extends out past the bumper. That needs to be very rigid. Although it depends on how far out it extends.

Ah, I see....

How thick is the carbon? I'm thinking maybe build a replica out of some sheet, and use the aluminite for the section that protrudes?

We will talk. This will be happening come spring time.

Excellent :D

And yeah its warm down here... The dashboard read 100F when I got in my car to go to lunch yesterday haha

Yeah welllllllllll, I think it's supposed to drop into the 20's tonight I think, maybe 30's. Admit it, you're jealous ;)

[DriFD3S]

John, thank you for your constant inspiration and new information.

Dude, I don't know you, but, I admire your dedication to your FD.

If you are ever in Canada, specifically Alberta,
we should grab a bite, or something like that.

[Raksj04]

:o16: DUCTING

[wutangben]

what DriFD3S said.

i feel like reading your thread and following your build is like cheating. you're doing everything i want to do. thanks for paving the way, :)

[Raksj04]

I normally FDs are not my thing. But this car is Prefect. I like the wheels you have, It is so clean, and the ducting, I want it.

[JhnRX7]

The Pettit GTC replica bumper arrived and I had some time to test fit it while I was home over the holidays. Good news is it fits perfectly! :D

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/IMG_0052.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/IMG_0063.jpg


My only complaint is that the bumper came "unfinished" with mold markings and various imperfections in the gel coat. Im going to smooth these all out before it goes to paint.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/IMG_0060.jpg


I also took some time to finally mock up a template for the intercooler splitter. I ran all last year without any ducting to the intercooler core and it worked ok, but with this Im hoping it will help maintain lower AIT's during longer track sessions.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/IMG_0073.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/IMG_0088.jpg


I need to order some wire mesh for the bumper openings.

[speedjunkie]

Mmm, I've always loved the GTC bumper. And I like that ducting too. Giving me some good ideas.

[yzf-r1]

Welcome John! Glad to see you over here

+1, love this car

[yzf-r1]

One thing that I considered last winter while installing my bushings was adding zerk fittings. The general consensus is that they are not need with the SuperPro bushings so I decided not to install them. I never installed the SuperPro's on my front suspension arms, so those will be going in.

I think I read somewhere that zerks could weaken the bushings because you need to drill through the body of the bushing to lube the inner wear surface (which would also prevent it from moving freely). I used the Energy Suspension grease which I heard is good for 30k+ miles if you stay out of the wet/rain.

[speedjunkie]

John, is your paint Innocent Blue Mica?

[JhnRX7]

I think I read somewhere that zerks could weaken the bushings because you need to drill through the body of the bushing to lube the inner wear surface (which would also prevent it from moving freely). I used the Energy Suspension grease which I heard is good for 30k+ miles if you stay out of the wet/rain.

I see where you are coming from, but I am skeptical that drilling a single small hole through the center of the bushing will make any difference. Especially when some of the bushings are designed as two piece.

The zerk fitting also serves as a set screw to lock the busing in place relative to the suspension arm. I see this as an advantage to assist the bushing in doing its job correctly. An OEM rubber bushing is designed to flex, where as a poly bushing is designed to piviot on the center shaft (see below). I have seen evidence that my bushings are binding up on the shaft and the entire bushing stays stationary while the suspension arm piviots around the bushing. My idea is that adding the zerk fittings will correct this.

Rubber bushing
http://www.elephantracing.com/images/techtopic/polyurethanefriction/rubberbushanime128.gif

Polyurethane Bushing
http://www.elephantracing.com/images/techtopic/polyurethanefriction/polybushanime128.gif



John, is your paint Innocent Blue Mica?

Nope. Electon Blue Metallic from a Corvette. Painted it myself in a makeshift garage paintbooth (some tarps and a box fan) about 8 years ago. Turned out pretty good, but I will never do that again. All the prep work involved sucks.


Some pics from back in the day when cameras first started appearing on cell phones :lol:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11445&stc=1&d=1325687874

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11446&stc=1&d=1325687886

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11447&stc=1&d=1325687898

[speedjunkie]

Yeah your paint came out really well! Makes me think about trying it, but you're right, the prep work sucks. I painted just my engine bay and I hated doing all the prep for just that.

[yzf-r1]

The zerk fitting also serves as a set screw to lock the busing in place relative to the suspension arm. I see this as an advantage to assist the bushing in doing its job correctly. An OEM rubber bushing is designed to flex, where as a poly bushing is designed to piviot on the center shaft (see below).

Most of the guys installing zerks also cut grooves/channels in the body of the bushing (some have this from the factory), otherwise the bushing may pivot and block off the lubrication passage

http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/race_prep/suspension/urethane_bushings.htm

I've seen pictures of poly bushings without zerks that still looked new (of course the grease was dirty) after 30k - it's driving in hard rain that you want to avoid if possible. For track use, the zerks are probably a good idea.

[RICE RACING]

Video from last Friday at NJMP. I was able to overlay the data from the Performance box onto GoPro video :)

ntkROvhwFU0

I like this thread :)

You have made a beautiful car :iagree:

[JhnRX7]

I like this thread :)

You have made a beautiful car :iagree:

:cheers2: Thanks. The car has come together nicely... I just need to improve my driving skills now :driving:



I came across some more shots a fellow photog buddy of mine took at one of the events this past summer.

This new bumper was LONG overdue...

This is me getting black flagged because the corner worker thought my hood was popped... it was just large panel gap :(

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/RTR_PCA013sm.jpg


That same day I also lost my driver side headlight cover at the end of the front straight from air getting under the cover... once again from a poor fitting bumper :icon_no2:

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/RTR_PCA014sm.jpg


And a random shot of my interior from the same photographer.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/RTR_PCA004sm.jpg

[speedjunkie]

I've lost my headlight cover a couple times too, I hate that lol. And they're hard as shit to find used.

Is that grey on the interior panels similar to the Spirit R pieces? Is it somewhat rubbery like in the Spirit R? I've been wanting to do that for a while now. It looks REALLY good.

[JhnRX7]

Is that grey on the interior panels similar to the Spirit R pieces? Is it somewhat rubbery like in the Spirit R? I've been wanting to do that for a while now. It looks REALLY good.

It is just the 94 finish plastics painted gunmetal grey. I did this back in my "ricer" days back when other people were painting their plastics the color of their cars and whatnot. Im just glad I picked a color I still like, because there is no going back. At the time I was unaware the Spirit R had a grey dash.

[speedjunkie]

Oh ok cool haha. I'm surprised the paint has held up so well all this time then. Now I can see the texture of the 94/95 dash. Thanks!

[Brent]

Always loved Electron Blue, yours looks better than mine though :D
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11453&stc=1&d=1325831751

I painted my silver car about 5 years ago. I'm with you... Never again! The prep work is so freaking time intensive. I've painted a few things since(like my bumper and headlight covers... also like you :D) and have been happy with how it's turned out. Towards the end when I'm wetsanding, buffing, and polishing... I'm ready to check out.

We've got a thread going on the 7club about a bunch of us trying to get together at RA or VIR this next track season. Let me know if you guys are interested or think it's feasible.

[TitaniumTT]

Damn John, I didn't know you did that paint job yourself, well done sir :icon_tup:

I don't understand the big deal, I personally love paint and body work, one of my favorite things to do. It pisses me off when I fuck something up and have to do it again... IE I painted my hood 7 times :banghead:

[JhnRX7]

Update.

Home from Puerto Rico and work on the FD has resumed!

I got all my body panels back from paint and I have been working on prepping the bumper for install. I have installed SS screen to keep rocks and tire chunks from damaging any of my heat exchangers. I also finished my intercooler duct / splitter. It is hidden nicely behind the screen.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7052/6870105894_22a8529072_b.jpg

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6215/7016214805_4d8548b3c7_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7253/6870105832_50d97ea6fd_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7094/6870103246_dcf48e1739_b.jpg


I have been sending batches of parts off to the powder coaters... I got tired of all the polished parts and I'm having everything coated in different forms of black. Here is the first batch: Radiator plate, dress up plate, and strut bar in wrinkle black. I have another batch that I should be picking up this week.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7248/7016242333_13e2e02995_b.jpg


Also joined the 21st century by adding some hood struts

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6115/7016210929_a69d4c344d_b.jpg

[knonfs]

Fawking LUV it!!

[infernosg]

I wonder if any of your temperatures (IAT or oil) will go up slightly as a result of the mesh. It doesn't seem like much but it really does impede flow. There's a reason we don't have mesh screens in front of jet engines :) That being said I'm sure the peace-of-mind of knowing you won't put a rock through an oil cooler is probably worth a couple degrees.

[JhnRX7]

You are absolutely correct. The mesh I used has an open area of 62.7% so it is definitely impeding airflow. However, as with anything it’s all about the trade-off's. My radiator is starting to get pretty beat up in the bottom corners so in my opinion the mesh is necessary. Also the oil coolers are very vulnerable to severe damage from being struck by large objects.

With this ducting setup my temperatures have always been very good, so I am willing to sacrafice some for saftey.

[RXtacy]

Looking good :icon_tup:

[legatia]

Thats one sweet car!

[RX-7FD3S]

mmm, love that beauty plate in the engine room :)

[Rich@SR]

Awesome build!!!

Have you thought about moving your front brake ducts to be more in the direct line of airflow in the front opening? It looked like you had some room between the current opening and the intercooler. I know you mentioned brake fade problems at DGRR last year and I would bet money that would go away with more direct airflow into the ducts. Just a thought...

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5008/5298888463_cd9910f106_b.jpg

[JhnRX7]

Awesome build!!!

Have you thought about moving your front brake ducts to be more in the direct line of airflow in the front opening? It looked like you had some room between the current opening and the intercooler. I know you mentioned brake fade problems at DGRR last year and I would bet money that would go away with more direct airflow into the ducts. Just a thought...


I have been considering adding air scoops over the ducts to force more air through them. I did notice barke fade towards the end of the dragon run last year, however the brakes have been good at track events so far.


Anyway, update time.

My twins finally shit the bed last night! The car has been sitting for the past couple weeks while I have been helping all my friends get their cars ready for DGRR. I decided to take it out and stretch its legs last night before I started cleaning it for DGRR... the first WOT pull I was treated to a big smoke screen behind me, then after that the car struggled to make boost and the intake temps kept climbing.

I have alot of very hard miles on my turbos and I knew they were not long for this world so luckily I have a very low mileage pair of cartridges sitting on the shelf. With only a couple days left before we leave I decided to get right to work.

I got the old turbos out, disassembled, cleaned, and new cartridges installed. The fresh set is waiting for me to drop them in tonight after work. I cant wait for DGRR :hurray:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11841&stc=1&d=1334666142

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11843&stc=1&d=1334666178

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11844&stc=1&d=1334666241

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11842&stc=1&d=1334666173

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11845&stc=1&d=1334666250

[RX SE7EN]

That sucks but at least you'll fix it in time. I've got an extra set of twins if you need more parts.

[FD3S2005]

what the piece you got coating above your radiator cap area?

[wutangben]

you gonna go for that ap racing brake kit?

[JhnRX7]

what the piece you got coating above your radiator cap area?

It is just a decorative plate.

you gonna go for that ap racing brake kit?

Yep. I have been lending my engineering services to SakeBomb Garage over the past 6 months or so... I had a little something to do with the development in the AP kit so it will be on my car ;)


Update:

So I started up the car to leave for DGRR and noticed a large amount of smoke pouring out the exhaust. It was hard to tell, but it looked like white coolant burning smoke and it smelt sweet to me at the time. I prematurely blamed my coolant seals and pulled the car back into the garage.

After DGRR once I had some time to diagnose the car I determined that the smoke was in fact not coolant smoke, but was definately oil in nature. The turbos I had just recently installed came off of a car with 30k miles and I had physically seen running bfore they were removed and it did not smoke. I assumed they could not be the issue. It was not oil control rings because the smoke would not start pouring out until 30-45 seconds after a cold start, also plugs were dry after pulling EGI and cranking. I tried various crankcase ventilation options and nothing helped. The strange thing was if I drove the car it would stop smoking all together.

I finally gave up and decided to pull the turbos again. Sure enough the front turbo was pouring oil out the turbine side into the exhaust. I checked all oil feed and return lines and could not find any blockages.

Oil from front turbo
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11933&stc=1&d=1336568487

Rear turbo dry
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11934&stc=1&d=1336568493

Once I swapped cartridges again and went to install the set I ended up snapping one of the manifold bolts :18: Off they come again.

I got the bolt drilled out and everything back together. The smoke is now completely fixed. However, im now completely burnt out on dealing with the twins so im looking into single turbo setups...

I have an apointment for alignment and corner balance this friday and a 3 day event at VIR next weekend :driving:

[RICE RACING]

twins eat penis.

Great updates as always :biggthumpup:

[SBGarage]

twins eat penis.

Great updates as always :biggthumpup:

No idea what this means, but :lol:

[TitaniumTT]

It means Peter is jealous of the response the twins have.

[JhnRX7]

If only they were still sequential then that might be a true statement. Sigh.

[JhnRX7]

So I made it out to VIR for the first time a couple weeks ago. I have to say, this track is absolutely amazing! I am planning on going back for another event in September. If it was not for the 7 hour drive, I would be out there every other weekend.


Thanks to Brian for letting me borrow his GoPro!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndTK1w_1weY&hd=1


and here is a quick clip of me chasing down the 3 rotor FD. I was not too happy when he attempted to blast down the straight w/o giving me the point by.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ebhx8vex16c


My lap times were nothing spectacular, but im looking forward to more seat time so I can improve.

Pics:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7098/7283495712_8e797c0b85_b.jpg

New SBG AP BBK!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7233/7283496032_455f52039f_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7084/7253232374_e3dac154f8_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7093/7253231746_afa4d0d669_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8014/7253231894_741f1ab509_c.jpg

[wutangben]

saw you were selling your twin power. what coils are you switching to?

[JhnRX7]

saw you were selling your twin power. what coils are you switching to?

AEM IGN-1A

I am in the process of replacing my wiring harness with a low mileage one so I figured now would be a good time to make the switch to these coils.

[wutangben]

nice, might go this route instead of a twin power. seems to make more sense.

[mofoaka]

Love your car! how far off the ground is the GTC replica bumper? i'm looking to do the same bumper but wondering if its something you'd want to daily.

[JhnRX7]

Wow, its been over a year since an update...

Its been a busy year, but the car has not changed much. I have still been attending track days with the car, however not nearly as many as I would like. Aside from swapping out the occasional turbo cartridge on the twins I have simply been enjoying the car.

I recently had the opportunity to purchase a set of Ohlins DFV coilovers from Sakebomb Garage for a killer deal so I could not resist. I previously had Stance GR+ coilovers with 12k front and 10k rear spring rates. The ride was pretty stiff, but aside from that I did not have any major complaints. However I have been drooling over Ohlins for years so I did not hesitate to make the switch.

These coilovers are pure mechanical art. I would have almost preferred to hang them on my wall they are so beautiful. They came in multiple boxes and required assembly. This was ok though because they had the most detailed instruction manual I have come across. They provided exact measurements for spring pre-load as well as height adjustment and even damper settings for the ideal starting point.

Big weight savings with the Ohlins as well. They are all aluminum with the exception of the piston, spring, and hardware. The springs weighed more than the damper!!

Front Assembled: 9.2 lbs (each)
Rear Assembled: 8.2 lbs (each)

For comparison the Stance fronts were 12.8 lbs each. Did not weigh the rears yet.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/IMG_7758_zps4172aee8.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/IMG_7760_zps936253d3.jpg

I took the time to safety wire the dust boots on to help keep them in place.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/IMG_7769_zps28c36462.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/IMG_7777_zps19aff72e.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/IMG_7782_zps0eccc7b6.jpg

The new spring rates are 11k front and rear. I will be curious to see what that does to the balance when i get a chance to take them to the track. I suspect it will be quite good. After my first road test I was absolutely blown away. I had known that the Dual Flow Valve tech in the Ohlins would make for a more comfortable ride, but I did not know what I was missing out on as far as handling. The ride is firm but not harsh, potholes and bumps are soaked up very well. The handling is outstanding, I took it out on my favorite backroads and I found myself going a lot faster without even meaning to. The car actually feels lighter in the turns.

I should be able to update after Nov 10th with some on track impressions... I cant wait :D

[RedR1]

Please do update on your feel of the Ohlins. I am currently on the fence right now between those and a set of Quantum coilovers. I've seen 4 people on this and the other forum purchase them (i too would be going through Sake) but no one has said how they truly feel with them on a day to day, and old versus new on the track basis. So far it's just been, "i love them" with no tangible thing other than "i can drive to the market and back and love it"

I can't justify $2800 to be comfortable to and from the market. . . . unless the track was inbetween :rofl:

Please, and thank you :)

The ride is firm but not harsh, potholes and bumps are soaked up very well. The handling is outstanding, I took it out on my favorite backroads and I found myself going a lot faster without even meaning to. The car actually feels lighter in the turns.

do you feel any regret against your old Stance's? Like, is it worth every penny to upgrade? Ohlins is one of the best companies, I just wanted to see honest answers since the cost is pretty steep (for me)

it sounds like you are 100% sold on the Ohlins, yes?

[JhnRX7]

Please do update on your feel of the Ohlins. I am currently on the fence right now between those and a set of Quantum coilovers. I've seen 4 people on this and the other forum purchase them (i too would be going through Sake) but no one has said how they truly feel with them on a day to day, and old versus new on the track basis. So far it's just been, "i love them" with no tangible thing other than "i can drive to the market and back and love it"

I can't justify $2800 to be comfortable to and from the market. . . . unless the track was inbetween :rofl:

Please, and thank you :)



do you feel any regret against your old Stance's? Like, is it worth every penny to upgrade? Ohlins is one of the best companies, I just wanted to see honest answers since the cost is pretty steep (for me)

it sounds like you are 100% sold on the Ohlins, yes?


I completely understand what you are saying as I was in the exact same boat. However now I am on the other side of the fence and can relate to the other reviews. Its honestly hard to put into words how good these feel.

Lets put it this way, I rarely ever drove my FD on the street simply because it was uncomfortable and not very enjoyable for me anymore. The weekend I installed these I drove to the grocery store THREE times just for an excuse to drive the FD... " oh, we are out of salsa? Be right back!"

To be more specific, I can say that with the 11k spring rate the car is still "firm", but they soak up bumps extremely well. Its not like a Cadillac where you didn't even know that you just drove through a sinkhole, but its not kidney jarring when you hit bumps either. The car feels very supple now for lack of better words. It feels a lot like my buddies BMW.

My next track day is on the same track as my most recent track day (about a month ago). I have data from the last track day and I will be taking data on the next so I should have a good comparison. I am not the best driver so it will be pretty subjective, however if they give me the confidence to push the car harder which results in lower lap times then I would call that an improvement.

I can honestly say they were worth every penny even without the track experience yet. They have really changed the car. I stuck my gopro in the wheel well over the weekend and got some cool video of the shocks in action haha I'll post that up tonight

[RedR1]

I completely understand what you are saying as I was in the exact same boat. However now I am on the other side of the fence and can relate to the other reviews. Its honestly hard to put into words how good these feel.

Lets put it this way, I rarely ever drove my FD on the street simply because it was uncomfortable and not very enjoyable for me anymore. The weekend I installed these I drove to the grocery store THREE times just for an excuse to drive the FD... " oh, we are out of salsa? Be right back!"

To be more specific, I can say that with the 11k spring rate the car is still "firm", but they soak up bumps extremely well. The car feels very supple now for lack of better words. It feels a lot like my buddies BMW.


that is awesome. I know every time I had to drive my FD anywhere, it always felt "jarry" . . . like, a bump was a major thing where i'd have to play minesweeper on the street :( that was with the old Zeal Function X i had. It's great to know these Ohlins are better valved to take up bumps. Even reflectors (only thing i could think of that's universally the same size state to state) in the middle of the roads were annoying and a point to be avoided when changing lanes.

Its great to know that these brings back the want to drive the car, where as previously it felt borderline "track only" (though not literally) if that makes sense.

My next track day is on the same track as my most recent track day (about a month ago). I have data from the last track day and I will be taking data on the next so I should have a good comparison. I am not the best driver so it will be pretty subjective, however if they give me the confidence to push the car harder which results in lower lap times then I would call that an improvement.

I can honestly say they were worth every penny even without the track experience yet. They have honestly changed the car. I stuck my gopro in the wheel well over the weekend and got some cool video of the shocks in action haha I'll post that up tonight

I would LOVE to watch the bound/rebound of these coilovers in action. Please do share when you have a moment to upload.

I'm also not the best driver, but if these coilovers make you feel more confident and in control versus your old, that's enough of a sale for me. Having confidence on a track is worth more to me, than going faster as there is always someone faster. I look forward to your track update. I'll also tell Dan and Heath your review is what sold me, maybe they'll give you some sort of kickback or discount next time you order? :)

thank you for your honest response!

[JhnRX7]

I would LOVE to watch the bound/rebound of these coilovers in action. Please do share when you have a moment to upload.


Ask and you shall receive!

The FD has a perfect little cubby hole to mount the GoPro, I just wish it was a tiny bit wider so I could see the bottom of the tire. Also, there is a lot of grain from the low light. I want to find a small LED light that I can mount in there as well to see if that helps for these videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_hIYi4-tWM&feature=youtu.be

[RXtacy]

Wow, its been over a year since an update...

Its been a busy year, but the car has not changed much. I have still been attending track days with the car, however not nearly as many as I would like. Aside from swapping out the occasional turbo cartridge on the twins I have simply been enjoying the car.

I recently had the opportunity to purchase a set of Ohlins DFV coilovers from Sakebomb Garage for a killer deal so I could not resist. I previously had Stance GR+ coilovers with 12k front and 10k rear spring rates. The ride was pretty stiff, but aside from that I did not have any major complaints. However I have been drooling over Ohlins for years so I did not hesitate to make the switch.

These coilovers are pure mechanical art. I would have almost preferred to hang them on my wall they are so beautiful. They came in multiple boxes and required assembly. This was ok though because they had the most detailed instruction manual I have come across. They provided exact measurements for spring pre-load as well as height adjustment and even damper settings for the ideal starting point.

Big weight savings with the Ohlins as well. They are all aluminum with the exception of the piston, spring, and hardware. The springs weighed more than the damper!!

Front Assembled: 9.2 lbs (each)
Rear Assembled: 8.2 lbs (each)

For comparison the Stance fronts were 12.8 lbs each. Did not weigh the rears yet.

I took the time to safety wire the dust boots on to help keep them in place.

The new spring rates are 11k front and rear. I will be curious to see what that does to the balance when i get a chance to take them to the track. I suspect it will be quite good. After my first road test I was absolutely blown away. I had known that the Dual Flow Valve tech in the Ohlins would make for a more comfortable ride, but I did not know what I was missing out on as far as handling. The ride is firm but not harsh, potholes and bumps are soaked up very well. The handling is outstanding, I took it out on my favorite backroads and I found myself going a lot faster without even meaning to. The car actually feels lighter in the turns.

I should be able to update after Nov 10th with some on track impressions... I cant wait :D

Love the Ohlins and the picture quality! :icon_tup: I really need to get a real camera :lol:

Ask and you shall receive!

The FD has a perfect little cubby hole to mount the GoPro, I just wish it was a tiny bit wider so I could see the bottom of the tire. Also, there is a lot of grain from the low light. I want to find a small LED light that I can mount in there as well to see if that helps for these videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_hIYi4-tWM&feature=youtu.be

Here you go.

z_hIYi4-tWM

[JhnRX7]

^ haha thanks, I fail at the internets.

[JhnRX7]

In addition to the Ohlins, I also just installed these! The (US) driver side is perfect, however the passenger seat has some holes in the bolster that will need to be recovered. I intentionally hid them from view in the pics :squint:

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/IMG_7833_zps5babc4a1.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/IMG_7854_zps19914595.jpg

Attempted to replicate Mazda brochure photo with this one, only had my 50mm lens though:
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/IMG_7865_zps1eb10dc1.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EYvRVzXiNPWJKvX-gZH20LiOkB8zdU31hPvBTxNuIspDb0qnKrJdrriRYSsJmxYwnw =w1254-h496

[speedjunkie]

Dammit man, you're gonna make me take out a loan for these coilovers lol. I've been wanting these things for a long time now and I'm planning on them being my next big purchase. I have some of the original STANCE coilovers that came out and your review just confirmed what I hoped, that I would love the DFVs. The drive on the street is exactly why I want to swap. I was planning on getting them already, but now I don't have to wait to know for sure that they are better.

Lets put it this way, I rarely ever drove my FD on the street simply because it was uncomfortable and not very enjoyable for me anymore.

That's what sold me, because I am in the same boat. Now I can't wait to get these.

And this I can't fully agree with...

I can't justify $2800 to be comfortable to and from the market. . . . unless the track was inbetween

I definitely understand your point, and $2800 is crazy, but if it makes me want to drive the car more, it's worth it to me haha.

[theorie]

So sexy.

[RENESISFD]

that is awesome. I know every time I had to drive my FD anywhere, it always felt "jarry" . . . like, a bump was a major thing where i'd have to play minesweeper on the street :( that was with the old Zeal Function X i had. It's great to know these Ohlins are better valved to take up bumps. Even reflectors (only thing i could think of that's universally the same size state to state) in the middle of the roads were annoying and a point to be avoided when changing lanes.
.....

I find that interesting you mention a horrible ride, my function xs seems to ride fairly well. I will have to go for a ride in Jhnrx7's car to compare the difference.

Did you buy them new or used? What were the spring rates you had.


John, the car is looking real good, I cant wait to join you out on track next year.

[RedR1]

I find that interesting you mention a horrible ride, my function xs seems to ride fairly well. I will have to go for a ride in Jhnrx7's car to compare the difference.

Did you buy them new or used? What were the spring rates you had.


I never got to let the suspension fully settle. I drove maybe 200 miles tops. Bought them new, 11/10 spring rates. They were with the first 10 units Rishie brought stateside many years ago.

then they were stolen off my FD when it was stolen and stripped (still hurts). :( :(

When you get a chance to ride with John, can you please chime back in or PM me insight compared to the function xs, if you don't mind? I would genuinely appreciate it (though i'm pretty much sold on the DFV's when its time).

[Topgear]

Lovely work mate great engineering :)

[RENESISFD]

I never got to let the suspension fully settle. I drove maybe 200 miles tops. Bought them new, 11/10 spring rates. They were with the first 10 units Rishie brought stateside many years ago.

then they were stolen off my FD when it was stolen and stripped (still hurts). :( :(

When you get a chance to ride with John, can you please chime back in or PM me insight compared to the function xs, if you don't mind? I would genuinely appreciate it (though i'm pretty much sold on the DFV's when its time).

Chris,

I rode in Johns car last weekend and the ride is very plush, quite comfortable. It is smoother than my zeals however I have 13k springs compared to the 11k springs John has. I also rode in goodfellas car which has the same suspension but has the settings stiffer (to rich good handling comes with a stiffy) than what John had his set to and the ride was obviously much stiffer.

Overall they are definitely a good streetable coilover that is also great for the track. If I was in the market for suspension I would get the ohlins over the zeals because they are basically the same price, and the ohlins are ohlins.

The expansion joints on the highway are much smoother than my car is but I normally drive them on a stiff setting because I live on long island and want to prevent the car from bottoming out on bumps because I drive my car with it pretty low to the ground.

I would not hesitate to get them even at their price point.

[JhnRX7]

As promised, I had a chance to try out the Ohlins on track :driving:

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/DSC_5779_zps49222098.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/DSC_5913_zps19474272.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/DSC_5830_zps336ddc26.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/DSC_5797_zpsd509a149.jpg


So my last track session was about a month ago at NJMP's Thunderbolt track. That session was on the stance suspension. This past Sunday I got back to Thunderbolt with the new Ohlins (and seats). However, I did not end up running the same track configuration. This time we ran WITH the chicane so lap times would generally be slower... Even with the chicane I shaved 3 seconds off my previous best!

Here is the data overlay. The red line is with the Ohlins, and the blue line is with the Stance. Notice my MPH is significantly higher through all the corners (except the chicane section).

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/JhnRX7/OhlinsStanceComparison_zps092caeff.jpg

1:46.85 Before
1:43.82 After

I think its safe to say these are better on track :biggthumpup:

As far as feel, they absolutely inspired more confidence but I think the higher cornering speed just came naturally. Another big improvement was rumble strips. They are so smooth now I can ride way up onto them without unsettling the car.

I have edited a video with data overlay I will be posting tonight.

[JhnRX7]

TnSHh3shHaQ

Video with data!

GPS lap time info recorded via Racelogic Performance Box. ECU data from internal data logging during session. AEM Series 2 ECU.

[Brent]

I can't wait to ride in your car again. Lots of stuff I want to check out. Wish you could have made it down last weekend with Rich and Dan.

[JhnRX7]

I can't wait to ride in your car again. Lots of stuff I want to check out. Wish you could have made it down last weekend with Rich and Dan.


Agreed, I need more instruction! I know the car has a lot more in it. Will your car be ready for next season? I really want to get back to VIR and even more so I want to get on Road Atlanta.


Testing out a new diffuser for SBG... I think I like it, just need to add rear skirts now to match sides.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5540/11036360645_267d40aea7_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnrenna/11036360645/)

[jacobcartmill]

john, very nice car. i am jealous.

also, i have the exact same stance coilovers you previously had, even with the 12k front and 10k rear springs. the ride is hard as hell, but they felt fine on the track (i'm probably too novice to even notice a difference). i'm overpowering my stock size tires (RS3s) so the shocks probably aren't getting the same workout as they would on your setup.

[Brent]

Agreed, I need more instruction! I know the car has a lot more in it. Will your car be ready for next season? I really want to get back to VIR and even more so I want to get on Road Atlanta.


Testing out a new diffuser for SBG... I think I like it, just need to add rear skirts now to match sides.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5540/11036360645_267d40aea7_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnrenna/11036360645/)

I hope so. My biggest constraint right now is time. Work takes up a lot of my time right now and it's a big deal for me to travel more than a couple hours away. I'm going to try to put something together at RA or VIR again in 2014. It'll probably be later in the year.

[JhnRX7]

So my FD is down for the winter and its time for some long overdue motor work. The last time the current motor was out of the car was in 2004. I have not put a ton of miles on the motor (maybe 35k), but they have been hard miles. I had been having smoking issues over the past year so I finally decided to pull it and tear it down.

Seeing as I built this motor when I was 17, there were quite a few things I would have done different had I known better. It appears that I had ported slightly into the oil control ring causing the front oil control rings to wear well past spec. I believe that, combined with using the original (now 120k mile) metal control rings ultimately led to the smoking.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14548&stc=1&d=1391480266

There were other issues I found while I was in there, chattering from the 3mm seals, a dented rotor, and poor side seal clearance on the rear rotor just to name a few. The rusty coolant passages were from years ago when I lived in FL I made the mistake of running the system with little to no coolant.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14549&stc=1&d=1391480266

See the blow by here… this explains why my catch can was filling with fuel!

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14550&stc=1&d=1391478056

I have cleaned everything and stacked the parts away on a shelf until I decide what to do. I want to start over with a 2mm motor, and polished stock ports. For now, I am focusing on other projects.

[RX SE7EN]

are the rotors still usable? If so, I might be able to take them off your hands :)

[JhnRX7]

…other project such as a redesigned, overbuilt fuel system! :fawk:

I recently had the opportunity to tune an E85 FD and I was very impressed with the capability of the fuel. Not only the knock suppression, but mainly the cooling ability! The coolant temps on that car were rock solid despite the fact it had a completely insufficient cooling system (greedy FMIC, no under tray, etc).

I have always liked the idea of water injection, but never installed it because I don't like the idea of installing additional mechanical systems on the car. My ECU has full Flex Fuel capability so it seemed to me E85 was the obvious choice. Once everything is all setup and tuned I just need to go to the gas pump. The ethanol content will dictate the power the motor makes by automatically adjusting between the 93 map/boost settings and the E85 map/boost settings.

I don't have lofty power goals. I am not using E85 was a way to achieve a big number. Truth be told, I will probably be running 93 the majority of the time. I simply want to take advantage of more capabilities of the ECU and I wanted an excuse to overbuild the fuel system :rofl:

This past weekend Mr. Ambrosio (RENESISFD a.k.a "Hard Line Master") came down to lend a hand in bending and flaring hard lines for the entire car. I used 3/8" 316L Stainless along with an assortment of tube nuts and fittings. With John's assistance and his fancy hydraulic flaring tool we were able to complete all the motor lines as well as the under car lines.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14551&stc=1&d=1391479236

Injectors will be ID1000 primary, ID 2000 Secondary. Seeing as E85 requires 30% more fuel I upped the stock 5/16" lines to 3/8" which should be plenty for my goals. I maintained the original in series fuel routing. The primary to secondary hard line is my favorite. It fits within a groove in the water pump with thousands of an inch to spare on all sides!

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14552&stc=1&d=1391479423

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14553&stc=1&d=1391479461

We replicated the OEM under car lines which was not an easy task. 13 bends in each line and if any one was off the whole thing would not fit! I am no longer running a purge control valve so the charcoal canister will vent at the rear of the car. Luckily, the 3/8" lines were able to fit in the OEM clips and everything bolts up exactly as stock :biggthumpup:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14555&stc=1&d=1391479596

I picked up the newest 2013 GM flex fuel sensor. This sensor is also made by continental like the others however it is smaller and has improved electronics. "Outputs ethanol concentration and fuel temperature within 250ms after start-up" as opposed by 500ms with the older sensor… not sure how much that matters, but I like that it is smaller.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14556&stc=1&d=1391479990

I have yet to determine what I am going to do between the under car lines and the fuel pump. I need to figure out a fuel filter solution first. I plan on running the AEM 320lph E85 pump in tank.

[JhnRX7]

are the rotors still usable? If so, I might be able to take them off your hands :)

Im not ready to give them up just yet until I figure out what i am going to do with the motor.

That said… you need 3mm rotors? The clearances all check out, but one is slightly dented.

[TitaniumTT]

So my FD is down for the winter and its time for some long overdue motor work. The last time the current motor was out of the car was in 2004. I have not put a ton of miles on the motor (maybe 35k), but they have been hard miles. I had been having smoking issues over the past year so I finally decided to pull it and tear it down.

Seeing as I built this motor when I was 17, there were quite a few things I would have done different had I known better. It appears that I had ported slightly into the oil control ring causing the front oil control rings to wear well past spec. I believe that, combined with using the original (now 120k mile) metal control rings ultimately led to the smoking.

There were other issues I found while I was in there, chattering from the 3mm seals, a dented rotor, and poor side seal clearance on the rear rotor just to name a few. The rusty coolant passages were from years ago when I lived in FL I made the mistake of running the system with little to no coolant.

See the blow by here… this explains why my catch can was filling with fuel!

I have cleaned everything and stacked the parts away on a shelf until I decide what to do. I want to start over with a 2mm motor, and polished stock ports. For now, I am focusing on other projects.

That's pretty good considering the type of miles that your car has seen. What so you think caused the chattering? Hurley, 3mm or what are you using for oil injection? Straight stock or premix in the tank as well?

What are you going to be running for seals in the new motor?

I like stock ports.... they have their place depending on application. The 'vert engine I built was originally supposed to be just a stock engine with a stock turbo making 270rwhp. I didn't change the port timing at all, just cleaned everything up significantly and spent some time in the bowls.

I've since changed my mind and will be doing WM injection, building a mani for it, running either a TO4 something or a BW S360. New power goal is 450. All I'm going to do is crack the keg open and replace the Apex seals... that's it.

…other project such as a redesigned, overbuilt fuel system! :fawk:

This past weekend Mr. Ambrosio (RENESISFD a.k.a "Hard Line Master") came down to lend a hand in bending and flaring hard lines for the entire car. I used 3/8" 316L Stainless along with an assortment of tube nuts and fittings. With John's assistance and his fancy hydraulic flaring tool we were able to complete all the motor lines as well as the under car lines.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14551&stc=1&d=1391479236

VERY sexy...

Injectors will be ID1000 primary, ID 2000 Secondary. Seeing as E85 requires 30% more fuel I upped the stock 5/16" lines to 3/8" which should be plenty for my goals. I maintained the original in series fuel routing. The primary to secondary hard line is my favorite. It fits within a groove in the water pump with thousands of an inch to spare on all sides!

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14552&stc=1&d=1391479423

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14553&stc=1&d=1391479461

Very sexy indeed.... my only concern would be heating of the SS line in that area being that close to the WP housing. But then again, with the amount of fuel flowing through it, I don't think it will be that much of a problem.....

We replicated the OEM under car lines which was not an easy task. 13 bends in each line and if any one was off the whole thing would not fit! I am no longer running a purge control valve so the charcoal canister will vent at the rear of the car. Luckily, the 3/8" lines were able to fit in the OEM clips and everything bolts up exactly as stock :biggthumpup:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14555&stc=1&d=1391479596

I picked up the newest 2013 GM flex fuel sensor. This sensor is also made by continental like the others however it is smaller and has improved electronics. "Outputs ethanol concentration and fuel temperature within 250ms after start-up" as opposed by 500ms with the older sensor… not sure how much that matters, but I like that it is smaller.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14556&stc=1&d=1391479990

Been there, done that, more than a few times.... I get quicker each time, but I like it less each time as well :lol:

I have yet to determine what I am going to do between the under car lines and the fuel pump. I need to figure out a fuel filter solution first. I plan on running the AEM 320lph E85 pump in tank.

are you going to run any type if surge tank or anything of that nature given how much you track the car?

[JhnRX7]

That's pretty good considering the type of miles that your car has seen. What so you think caused the chattering? Hurley, 3mm or what are you using for oil injection? Straight stock or premix in the tank as well?

Yeah, I was running Hurley 3mm seals. The OMP system is stock. I did not start premixing until a few years ago. However I have always changed my oil religiously.


What are you going to be running for seals in the new motor?


TBD


Very sexy indeed.... my only concern would be heating of the SS line in that area being that close to the WP housing. But then again, with the amount of fuel flowing through it, I don't think it will be that much of a problem.....


This is a valid concern. One I had not really considered... The flex fuel sensor also measures fuel temperature, I will have to monitor fuel temp to see how it is affected as the car warms up. Worst case, that is an easy line to re-do.


are you going to run any type if surge tank or anything of that nature given how much you track the car?

This is part of the reason I did not finish off the rear of the car. I am seriously considering a radium surge tank or the setup Ambrosio has (just not welded in the tank). I want to mount it under the car to maintain a stock appearance.

[RXtacy]

…other project such as a redesigned, overbuilt fuel system! :fawk:

I recently had the opportunity to tune an E85 FD and I was very impressed with the capability of the fuel. Not only the knock suppression, but mainly the cooling ability! The coolant temps on that car were rock solid despite the fact it had a completely insufficient cooling system (greedy FMIC, no under tray, etc).

I have always liked the idea of water injection, but never installed it because I don't like the idea of installing additional mechanical systems on the car. My ECU has full Flex Fuel capability so it seemed to me E85 was the obvious choice. Once everything is all setup and tuned I just need to go to the gas pump. The ethanol content will dictate the power the motor makes by automatically adjusting between the 93 map/boost settings and the E85 map/boost settings.

I don't have lofty power goals. I am not using E85 was a way to achieve a big number. Truth be told, I will probably be running 93 the majority of the time. I simply want to take advantage of more capabilities of the ECU and I wanted an excuse to overbuild the fuel system :rofl:

This past weekend Mr. Ambrosio (RENESISFD a.k.a "Hard Line Master") came down to lend a hand in bending and flaring hard lines for the entire car. I used 3/8" 316L Stainless along with an assortment of tube nuts and fittings. With John's assistance and his fancy hydraulic flaring tool we were able to complete all the motor lines as well as the under car lines.



Injectors will be ID1000 primary, ID 2000 Secondary. Seeing as E85 requires 30% more fuel I upped the stock 5/16" lines to 3/8" which should be plenty for my goals. I maintained the original in series fuel routing. The primary to secondary hard line is my favorite. It fits within a groove in the water pump with thousands of an inch to spare on all sides!

We replicated the OEM under car lines which was not an easy task. 13 bends in each line and if any one was off the whole thing would not fit! I am no longer running a purge control valve so the charcoal canister will vent at the rear of the car. Luckily, the 3/8" lines were able to fit in the OEM clips and everything bolts up exactly as stock :biggthumpup:

I picked up the newest 2013 GM flex fuel sensor. This sensor is also made by continental like the others however it is smaller and has improved electronics. "Outputs ethanol concentration and fuel temperature within 250ms after start-up" as opposed by 500ms with the older sensor… not sure how much that matters, but I like that it is smaller.

I have yet to determine what I am going to do between the under car lines and the fuel pump. I need to figure out a fuel filter solution first. I plan on running the AEM 320lph E85 pump in tank.

Hardlines look great!


This is part of the reason I did not finish off the rear of the car. I am seriously considering a radium surge tank or the setup Ambrosio has (just not welded in the tank). I want to mount it under the car to maintain a stock appearance.

The Radium surge tank is a sexy piece.

[RX SE7EN]

How does the Radium tank work, is there a pump in it, after it? or does it just fill up after the intake pumps and retain the pressure?

[JhnRX7]

How does the Radium tank work, is there a pump in it, after it? or does it just fill up after the intake pumps and retain the pressure?

There is a pump (or two) in the surge tank. The Pump in the main fuel tank feeds the surge tank filling it with fuel. Then the pump(s) in the surge tank feed the fuel rails. Fuel from the rails returns to the surge tank ensuring the level inside the tank never drops. Excess fuel in the surge tank returns to the main fuel tank. This allows you to run your fuel level down to 1.5 liters (the volume of the surge tank) without any fuel starvation issues.


http://radiumauto.com/media/techarticle-page.php?How-does-a-Radium-Fuel-Surge-Tank-work-79

[RX SE7EN]

But what if the 2 (or 3) pumps in the surge tank outflow the in tank pump? I know it would take a while for it to deplete especially with the fuel return going to the surge tank.

But what about in a scenario like the texas mile, not saying I want to do it, but could this potentially starve if you are flat out for a long period of time?

[JhnRX7]

But what if the 2 (or 3) pumps in the surge tank outflow the in tank pump? I know it would take a while for it to deplete especially with the fuel return going to the surge tank.

But what about in a scenario like the texas mile, not saying I want to do it, but could this potentially starve if you are flat out for a long period of time?

I believe once the surge tank is full, the return flow from the injectors going back to the surge tank combined with the tank pump pumping from the main tank is enough to keep the surge tank full so you do not need to match your in tank pump to your surge tank pump. If you had some extreme requirements (like the Texas mile) they sell larger surge tanks.

[TitaniumTT]

Yeah, I was running Hurley 3mm seals. The OMP system is stock. I did not start premixing until a few years ago. However I have always changed my oil religiously.

I wonder how much of that was because of insuffiecent OMP injection or the seals or the 3mm. I had to tear down my engine after about 15k because of a broken exhaust sleeve. I had been running the RA seals with the RA adapter for 2 stroke and about 1/3oz/gal in the tank. After about 15k miles I had chatter marks. When I put it back together I doubled the premix in the tank. and mixed 128:1 in the tank. After about another 15k miles I tore the engine down again and the chatter mark were gone. Now I just mix ~75:1 in the tank and call it good.

TBD

You know my rec :D

This is a valid concern. One I had not really considered... The flex fuel sensor also measures fuel temperature, I will have to monitor fuel temp to see how it is affected as the car warms up. Worst case, that is an easy line to re-do.

I wonder what the difference would be between the temp at the sensor and the temp in the rail? Do you have the ability to trim based on fuel temp and can you put another sensor in the fuel rail? More for curiosity than anything else.


This is part of the reason I did not finish off the rear of the car. I am seriously considering a radium surge tank or the setup Ambrosio has (just not welded in the tank). I want to mount it under the car to maintain a stock appearance.

The Radium surge tank is a sexy piece.

I know.... so when are we going to finish up designing our variant and get one cut?

How does the Radium tank work, is there a pump in it, after it? or does it just fill up after the intake pumps and retain the pressure?

Like John said, it works exactly like the surge tank I built into the fuel cell that I built.

But what if the 2 (or 3) pumps in the surge tank outflow the in tank pump? I know it would take a while for it to deplete especially with the fuel return going to the surge tank.

But what about in a scenario like the texas mile, not saying I want to do it, but could this potentially starve if you are flat out for a long period of time?

An Aeromotive 340 is rated at 340lph @ 3B. When operating as a lift pump there is basically zero pressure and the flow will be ALOT more. On the order of 450-500lph I would assume. So unless you're running some MONSTER fuel system, the 340 as a lift pump should run just fine.

EDIT... after finding the flow chart and extrapolating the curve with my calculating eye, it looks like ~ 450/lph

http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/11140-42_FlowChart.jpg

[RX SE7EN]

Ok cool, didn't think about the pressurized vs. no pressure difference. I have the hyperion baffle installed, so if my car ever runs and it doesn't work all that well I may make the switch.

[RXtacy]

I know.... so when are we going to finish up designing our variant and get one cut?


Because I showed you ;)

Have you even looked at the model I sent you?

[TitaniumTT]

Ok cool, didn't think about the pressurized vs. no pressure difference. I have the hyperion baffle installed, so if my car ever runs and it doesn't work all that well I may make the switch.

Kewl.... It's my strong belief and recommendation that every turbo rotary regardless of street or track needs some kind of surge tank. Be it the traditional type or something like the Radium

Because I showed you ;)

Have you even looked at the model I sent you?

Of course I have!

[JhnRX7]

I wonder what the difference would be between the temp at the sensor and the temp in the rail? Do you have the ability to trim based on fuel temp and can you put another sensor in the fuel rail? More for curiosity than anything else.


I can, and will do this. I can also trim for fuel temp.

So drilling and tapping the secondary rail is easy enough, however the Flex Fuel sensor will already be in the return line so I will have that temp. I need to know the DeltaT so I will get one of those AN to AN adapters with 1/8th NPT in the middle. I'll install that at the engine before the primary rail. I have the extra 1/8th NPT sensor I was planning on using for the Diff already, I'll just borrow that.

looking forward to test this out... I like data.

[TitaniumTT]

I can, and will do this. I can also trim for fuel temp.

Very cool. I'm waiting on Aaron and Jayson @ FFE to come out with their new rails before I dive into redoing the fuel system and adding the fuel temp. I'm not going to get the DeltaT just the temp in the rails.

I would also like to add a pressure sender before the filter, pulling a log will let me know when it's starting to clog up.

So drilling and tapping the secondary rail is easy enough, however the Flex Fuel sensor will already be in the return line so I will have that temp. I need to know the DeltaT so I will get one of those AN to AN adapters with 1/8th NPT in the middle. I'll install that at the engine before the primary rail. I have the extra 1/8th NPT sensor I was planning on using for the Diff already, I'll just borrow that.

What temp sensors are you using that are 1/8" NPT? Most of the temp sensors that I'm seeing are 1/4 or 3/8" NPT?

Diff temp you say? Intrigued I am.... I may have to borrow this idea and put a sender in my tranny

looking forward to test this out... I like data.

Indeed... I'm putting a PS2000 in my vert... I have so many inputs that I need to move the to a CAN EGT setup and I might even look into the CAN I/O Expander

[JhnRX7]

I would also like to add a pressure sender before the filter, pulling a log will let me know when it's starting to clog up.

Funny you mention that...

This is the fuel filter I am getting. I want a stainless element for E85, and dont want some BS 40 micron filter. This is one of the nicest filters (with the most filtration area) I can find with a 10 micron SS filter.

http://www.foreinnovations.com/product_p/16-900.htm

They give you the option to purchase mechanical pressure gauges for the inlet and outlet. I will be doing this. No need to use up inputs for something you can just check every once in a while (I'm aware there is the small possibility for it to clog quickly in rare instances, my fuel pressure protection will protect me from damage if this happens though).

Does your ECU have the capability to set a warning for pressure drop across two pressure inputs? I could setup a math channel to monitor it and have it displayed on a race dash such as the AIM MXL (I really want the new MXL2 or color dash BTW :o16: Have you seen these?) But for now checking mechanical gauges will be sufficient. Once I see a pressure drop I can pull the filter element and clean it.


What temp sensors are you using that are 1/8" NPT? Most of the temp sensors that I'm seeing are 1/4 or 3/8" NPT?

I have a bunch of these AEM sensors.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images/Products/Installation%20Instructions%2030-2012.pdf


Diff temp you say? Intrigued I am.... I may have to borrow this idea and put a sender in my tranny

When I re-worked my harness for the new ECU I included wiring for Trans and Diff temps. I got all the sensors, however I was waiting until I needed to change fluids to install them... never got around to it. Will over the winter though.

I REALLY want to get a baseline for both because I plan on adding a cooler (or 2) but don't want to just add a cooler for the sake of adding a cooler. Need to get the data first to justify it. I suspect it will definitely be necessary for the trans though.

[RENESISFD]

I know my trans and diff temps :-).

Unfortunately no track data yet just street cruising.

Max trans temp was 175 degrees F on a 800 mile drive in 62 degree F ambient day.

Diff was about 180 degrees F on the sme day.


Those hardlines look sexy.

[JhnRX7]

I know my trans and diff temps :-)

So how hot does the trans get on track? :p

[RENESISFD]

^ Ninja edit above


:'( very funny John

[JhnRX7]

^ Ninja edit above


:'( very funny John


Just motivation to get you back on track with us :biggthumpup:

Although this year you may be back on track before me.

[RENESISFD]

^ There is always Tracstiva :302:.


http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/renesisfd/fordfestiva_zpsd122ce62.jpg (http://s956.photobucket.com/user/renesisfd/media/fordfestiva_zpsd122ce62.jpg.html)

[TitaniumTT]

Funny you mention that...

This is the fuel filter I am getting. I want a stainless element for E85, and dont want some BS 40 micron filter. This is one of the nicest filters (with the most filtration area) I can find with a 10 micron SS filter.

http://www.foreinnovations.com/product_p/16-900.htm

They give you the option to purchase mechanical pressure gauges for the inlet and outlet. I will be doing this. No need to use up inputs for something you can just check every once in a while (I'm aware there is the small possibility for it to clog quickly in rare instances, my fuel pressure protection will protect me from damage if this happens though).

Very cool... Seems like they realize it's a problem with the E85 breaking shit down and clogging shit up.

Does your ECU have the capability to set a warning for pressure drop across two pressure inputs? I could setup a math channel to monitor it and have it displayed on a race dash such as the AIM MXL (I really want the new MXL2 or color dash BTW :o16: Have you seen these?) But for now checking mechanical gauges will be sufficient. Once I see a pressure drop I can pull the filter element and clean it.

There are functions in there that I can setup to comp for fuel pressure and the like, but no direct channel.
I have not seen them! Why have you mentioned them! Now I'm going to have to go look at them... Damn it John!

I have a bunch of these AEM sensors.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images/Products/Installation%20Instructions%2030-2012.pdf

Interesting... I wonder if some of the newer MoTeC releases can accommodate those sensors... I'll have to look into it. I know the haltech can't. It doesn't have the resolution to properly mimic the curve of the output.

When I re-worked my harness for the new ECU I included wiring for Trans and Diff temps. I got all the sensors, however I was waiting until I needed to change fluids to install them... never got around to it. Will over the winter though.

I REALLY want to get a baseline for both because I plan on adding a cooler (or 2) but don't want to just add a cooler for the sake of adding a cooler. Need to get the data first to justify it. I suspect it will definitely be necessary for the trans though.

Yeah.... I hear ya... no sense in doing something if you don't need to.

I know my trans and diff temps :-).

Unfortunately no track data yet just street cruising.

Max trans temp was 175 degrees F on a 800 mile drive in 62 degree F ambient day.

Diff was about 180 degrees F on the sme day.


Those hardlines look sexy.


About what I thought they would be. On the track I suspect they'll get much higher, probably into the 250+ range. But at what temp does tranny and diff fluid start to break down?

^ Ninja edit above


:'( very funny John

I can see all edits.... that was rough... Tracvista surprised the hell out of me at Pocono though!

Just motivation to get you back on track with us :biggthumpup:

Although this year you may be back on track before me.

I think al you guys will be on the track before me... it's just a time thing. Are you guys thinking about Limerock this year? They should be releasing the dates pretty soon.

[JhnRX7]

I REALLY want to get on Lime Rock now... more so than ever.

I will do a post tonight explaining why, just need to take some pictures first :)

I think Ambrosio knows what I'm talking about.

[JhnRX7]

I have not seen them! Why have you mentioned them! Now I'm going to have to go look at them... Damn it John!


SOOOOO Sexy!

http://www.aim-sportline.com/images/common/foto_mxl2_290.jpg

I think I like the "Classic" look of the MXL2 better, but this would be pretty nice too. (also about $1000 more expensive :willy_nilly:)

http://www.aim-sportline.com/images/common/foto_mxg_290.jpg



Interesting... I wonder if some of the newer MoTeC releases can accommodate those sensors... I'll have to look into it. I know the haltech can't. It doesn't have the resolution to properly mimic the curve of the output.


That sucks, I searched high and low for a 1/8th NPT sensor and the AEM was the only one I could find with published calibration data. Fortunately for me I have the AEM ECU which has the sensor preset in a setup wizard, however they do have high enough resolution to plot it out even if it did not have the sensor preset.

That little sensor is really expensive for what it is, I would have much rather used a GM temp sensor.

[TitaniumTT]

SOOOOO Sexy!

http://www.aim-sportline.com/images/common/foto_mxl2_290.jpg

I think I like the "Classic" look of the MXL2 better, but this would be pretty nice too. (also about $1000 more expensive :willy_nilly:)

http://www.aim-sportline.com/images/common/foto_mxg_290.jpg

Ohhhh I like!

That sucks, I searched high and low for a 1/8th NPT sensor and the AEM was the only one I could find with published calibration data. Fortunately for me I have the AEM ECU which has the sensor preset in a setup wizard, however they do have high enough resolution to plot it out even if it did not have the sensor preset.

:lol: Yeah... that's the nice thing about using an AEM ECU with AEM sensors .... I don't think the MoTeC has the preset, but it has a ridiculous amount of plot points. Or... 1/4" bung as opposed to 1/8. Frankly, I prefer the 1/4" because the threads are more coarse.

That little sensor is really expensive for what it is, I would have much rather used a GM temp sensor.

Yeah... I may just end up doing that.

[JhnRX7]

Sooo I started playing a PC driving "simulator" called iRacing. I had heard about it before but never really thought it was anything other than Forza for PC. I was wrong.

First thing that drew me in was it had NJMP as an available track. I had heard that iRacing was supposed to be very realistic, but I had no idea how good it was. When I first started, I was driving like I would in Forza and I could not complete a lap without going 4 wheels off every lap. It took a long time to get it, but eventually I learned I had to treat it like a real car. Start slow and work your way faster and braking later, etc. The tracks are all laser scanned and they are really true to real life (at least NJMP and VIR).

I really think this will help me at least a little in my driving. I have learned a lot about how to steer the car with the throttle and brakes.

I am using a Thrustmaster T500RS steering wheel and pedals. I started out with the wheel clamped to a backwards step stool but that was not working so I welded up a "rig" out of scrap metal I had lying around and an old FD seat.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14558&stc=1&d=1391733511

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14559&stc=1&d=1391733517

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14561&stc=1&d=1391733532

Using an old iPhone as a digital dash.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14560&stc=1&d=1391733526


I started out driving the Spec Miata cup car and as a result I ended up driving Lime Rock a lot… I have learned to LOVE Lime Rock, such an awesome track! Reminds me a bit of NJMP Lightning, but so much better.

At the very least, this will be a great tool to use before going to a new track to get familiar with it before my first track day there.

[RXtacy]

^That's fucking awesome! Nice work man. Lime Rock is a lot of fun.

[TitaniumTT]

Holly Hell John, that is freaken AWESOME... I want it.... but I know exactly what it will mean for me... too ,uch playing and not enough working on the real car :lol:

I started out driving the Spec Miata cup car and as a result I ended up driving Lime Rock a lot… I have learned to LOVE Lime Rock, such an awesome track! Reminds me a bit of NJMP Lightning, but so much better.

I've said that EXACT same thing about LRP and Lightning... soooo what kind of times are you putting down? :lol:



No.... seriously :smilielol5:

[JhnRX7]

Holly Hell John, that is freaken AWESOME... I want it.... but I know exactly what it will mean for me... too ,uch playing and not enough working on the real car :lol:

You speak the truth... It took Ambrosio and I 3 days to complete the hard lines last weekend! Luckily for me, the game had just received an update and the servers were having problems. It would be down for maintenance every couple hours. If it was not for that we may never have finished :lol:



I've said that EXACT same thing about LRP and Lightning... soooo what kind of times are you putting down? :lol:


Right now in the spec miata cup car my I'm doing consistent 1.01:XXX's with a fast lap of 1.01.285. My optimal is in the 1.00:6XX range. The fast guys are doing 0.59:XXX's.


Lime rock is so much fun in the miata, very much a momentum course. Turn 1 / Big Bend has really helped me figure out trail braking. Shaved a full second once I figured that out. The left hander into the esses is where I have the most consistency problems. The miata likes to rotate in the left hander when trying to hit the late apex and setup for the esses.

Is the uphill as sketchy in real life as I would expect it to be??

Turn 7 / the downhill is my favorite... come down the hill, set the wheel right about where the hill goes flat then full throttle through trying not to scrub any speed.

[RENESISFD]

^ I need to get a setup in my house for practice. That was too much fun.

[RENESISFD]

About what I thought they would be. On the track I suspect they'll get much higher, probably into the 250+ range. But at what temp does tranny and diff fluid start to break down?



I can see all edits.... that was rough... Tracvista surprised the hell out of me at Pocono though!




I am definitely anxious to see what the temps are on track. I am not convinced a cooler or an extra capacity pan is necessary.


You just wait 'till Tracstiva has a turbo on it. :coolgleamA:

[RXtacy]

Is the uphill as sketchy in real life as I would expect it to be??

Turn 7 / the downhill is my favorite... come down the hill, set the wheel right about where the hill goes flat then full throttle through trying not to scrub any speed.

It can make you pucker for sure. Gotta be pointing straight when you crest :lol:

That turn takes some balls in real life also.

[TitaniumTT]

You speak the truth... It took Ambrosio and I 3 days to complete the hard lines last weekend! Luckily for me, the game had just received an update and the servers were having problems. It would be down for maintenance every couple hours. If it was not for that we may never have finished :lol:

:rofl:


Right now in the spec miata cup car my I'm doing consistent 1.01:XXX's with a fast lap of 1.01.285. My optimal is in the 1.00:6XX range. The fast guys are doing 0.59:XXX's.

Very nice times... For reference I pull about 63s in my FC and about 70-71 in the RX8. I'm convinced there's more in the 8 with tires, not 19" rims and manipulating the DSC. I have a set of stock RX8 rims that I may put some race rubber on :reddevil: .. ITS FC's are doing it in 59-60s.

Lime rock is so much fun in the miata, very much a momentum course.

It really is. THe Miata guys and the ITS guys only lift or brake once and that is for Big Bend.

Turn 1 / Big Bend has really helped me figure out trail braking. Shaved a full second once I figured that out.

Yeah.... Are you treating it as a double Apex or as a late Apex one turn?

The left hander into the esses is where I have the most consistency problems. The miata likes to rotate in the left hander when trying to hit the late apex and setup for the esses.

Hmmmmm... The way I generally take that turn is late braking and FAR FAR FAR right. Let the car settle and turn in. Once the nose is pointing halfway into the Apex stand on the gas and go. The FC will rotate itself, hit the apex and I can put all the power to the ground through the esses and down no-name straight. It scared the ever living shit our of me last year when I had the LRP pipe on, she boost crept to about 17psi and probably about 450rwhp. Scared the shit out of me!

Is the uphill as sketchy in real life as I would expect it to be??

Yes... make sure the car is settled and pointing straight :lol:

Turn 7 / the downhill is my favorite... come down the hill, set the wheel right about where the hill goes flat then full throttle through trying not to scrub any speed.

Fuck that turn! But that's probably because I've been off track there once in a pro Boxster S with a pro driver and I've seen a few people get really loose there. I pucker ALOT but still manage about 150mph before the braking zone

It can make you pucker for sure. Gotta be pointing straight when you crest :lol:

That turn takes some balls in real life also.

Yes it does!

[TitaniumTT]

^ I need to get a setup in my house for practice. That was too much fun.

:rofl:

I am definitely anxious to see what the temps are on track. I am not convinced a cooler or an extra capacity pan is necessary.

Yeah... I wonder if the track is what did the 6spd in. I puked all it's fluid right before the braking zone 2 years ago..... I don't think temps were the problem... but it was also like 104* that day... literally.


You just wait 'till Tracstiva has a turbo on it. :coolgleamA:

The fuck? Ruh Roh.....

[Dannobre]

You would likely be surprised at the Transmission and Diff temps ...

I have a tranny and diff cooler in my RX-8 track car....tranny temps will easily hit 250+ after about 15 minutes at 90 deg track temps. Diff with a Kazz clutch LSD have been over 300 without the cooler ( way over actually :( )

With the coolers installed they sit below 225 at all times.

I forgot to turn the pumps on and got the oil too hot.......turned on the pumps...and proceeded to melt the pump housing on the diff pump. Learned the hard way to turn everything on before GO

[Gregory Casimir]

how do you like the thrust master wheel?

[TitaniumTT]

You would likely be surprised at the Transmission and Diff temps ...

I have a tranny and diff cooler in my RX-8 track car....tranny temps will easily hit 250+ after about 15 minutes at 90 deg track temps. Diff with a Kazz clutch LSD have been over 300 without the cooler ( way over actually :( )

With the coolers installed they sit below 225 at all times.

I forgot to turn the pumps on and got the oil too hot.......turned on the pumps...and proceeded to melt the pump housing on the diff pump. Learned the hard way to turn everything on before GO

That is surprising... especially with the diff... I figured they would both be in the 200-225 range.... great... now I need to add a sensor.... at least the wires are already run from the previous hall effect sensor for the stock TII speedo output.

[JhnRX7]

Yeah.... Are you treating it as a double Apex or as a late Apex one turn?


Late Apex.


how do you like the thrust master wheel?

Its awesome! Very smooth with the belt drive, and tons of torque. The pedals are very solid too, all metal construction. I ended up getting it brand new for a crazy deal, but I think it is worth the money even for its normal price.


So the anti-productivity of iRacing strikes again! Dan came over on Friday with a bunch of metal with the intention to fabricate another seat/wheel mount for himself... we never even ended up taking the metal out of the box :lol:

[RXtacy]

So the anti-productivity of iRacing strikes again! Dan came over on Friday with a bunch of metal with the intention to fabricate another seat/wheel mount for himself... we never even ended up taking the metal out of the box :lol:

:rofl:

[JhnRX7]

So I managed to ignore iRacing for a couple weeks and get my FD back together.

Rebuilt the motor using new (to me) good shape rotor housings, new Hurley 3mm seals (same as what was in there before, had an extra set), all new hard and soft seals and pressed in all new bearings. If money were no object I would have lapped and re-nitrided the irons (or replaced), got new rotors with 2mm seals, and new or resurfaced rotor housings. However, I was on a budget for this as most of my money is going to paying for a wedding this year. All said and done, the rebuild cost me $570 and some favors.

Here is a time-lapse of the build, GoPro ran out of batteries just as I was closing it up. You will notice I pulled the rear rotor back out... corner seal was not lining up :-/

http://youtu.be/9juMST0d6Cg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9juMST0d6Cg


The car has been on the road for a little over a week now. I have been driving it as much as I can, put about 200 miles on it so far. All seems great with the new motor.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14790&stc=1&d=1398044632

I could not help myself over the weekend... I had to try out E85 and my new Flex Fuel sensor :D

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14791&stc=1&d=1398044632

I had just over 1/4 tank of 93 when I filled up with E85. I keyed on a couple times to let the pump prime so I could verify the sensor was working. Stabilized at 59% ethanol. I copied my 93 map over to the E85 map and did a global 30% increase. I made the blend table linear from 10% to 85%. Fired it up and drove it home. I'm seriously impressed with this setup and love that I can now add any mixture of the two fuels. The tune was basically spot on after making a few minor global changes to the map to make the air fuel values match. Once I have more miles on the motor I will tune for the full E85.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14792&stc=1&d=1398044632

[chibikougan]

Nice!

[jacobcartmill]

OK john, #1 Whiskey Tango Foxtrot... you have an AEMv2? i didnt even know they made these for rotaries.
#2 which pre-mix are you using?

[JhnRX7]

OK john, #1 Whiskey Tango Foxtrot... you have an AEMv2? i didnt even know they made these for rotaries.
#2 which pre-mix are you using?

I have been using it for a couple years now and love it. The 30-6050 box is considered the "universal box" as it has the most I/O's including 12 injector and coil outputs. They still have full rotary support but just don't make a "plug and play" box. There are places you can get a plug and play kit for the S2 though.

I'm using Klotz Benol now that I am using E-85. However I will only use that when I plan on filling with any concentration of ethanol as its quite a bit more expensive than normal premix. That said, I still use the OMP.

[Gregory Casimir]

any updates?