Headunit and 3 gauge center dash mod

[JustJeff]

I never liked how low DIN gauge panels sat on the center dash. So while moving all my parts from the old turbo vert to the soon to be turbo vert I decided to make some changes.

After pulling out the OEM headunit I saw that the mounting brackets are screwed onto the OEM headunit. That seemed like an awesome and easy starting point. I mounted my Eclipse HU onto the OEM bracket but on the lowest DIN spot. It worked alright, but the HU sat way too far forward for my taste. Measuring showed that it extended about 20mm out from the center dash cover. It also sat a little too low. I was concerned the little plastic outer trim for the Eclipse wouldn't fit.

So, I measured 5mm up and 20mm back and drilled and dremeled new screw holes. The height was right on, but the HU sat too far back and sunken in. So I dremeled each hole into a slot so I could adjust depth for the HU. IIRC the most forward the modded hole would allow is 10mm. So with the slot I made I can mount the HU anywhere from 10-20mm forward/back.

Here is how it mounts after moving it up 5mm and creating the slot.
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/222972_1879894311447_1063965498_31975138_4971598_n .jpg

Here are the brackets mounted just as they should be...only with my HU. BTW the black wire coming down is my common ground for the headunit and antenna relay. Once the gauges are installed I'll ground them all from one common ground. It grounds to the shifter top bracket. I took the top driver side bolt out, then slid the ring terminal under the bracket and bolted it back down.
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/215968_1879894631455_1063965498_31975140_236220_n. jpg

One side with the slot. Again 5mm up and 20-10mm forward and back
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/227698_1879894791459_1063965498_31975141_4318362_n .jpg

Not a very good pic of the opposite side. That side does not mount as well because a tab on the OEM bracket created a large opening. Once its all done I'll use a longer screw with a washer on it so that it mounts better.
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/216374_1879894951463_1063965498_31975142_672305_n. jpg

I measured the inside of the center dash cover and cut a cardboard template. The vertical lines on either side of the DIN opening are where the sheet metal will bend. I'll create a few more screw holes and use plastic bushings to secure the front panel to the OEM bracket.
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/224291_1879895151468_1063965498_31975144_8213580_n .jpg

Trace the DIN opening onto the metal panel and cut and grind it down.
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/229582_1879895351473_1063965498_31975145_6164991_n .jpg

Marked center for height and width and drew the gauge openings.
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/216088_1879895431475_1063965498_31975146_2125505_n .jpg

The panel DIN fitted to the HU
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/222861_1879895591479_1063965498_31975148_527625_n. jpg

Template mounted. Glad I did that before cutting the gauge holes. The template is a couple mm off-center to the passenger side.
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/215260_1879895791484_1063965498_31975149_3697149_n .jpg

That's all I have so far. I'm off all weekend with a bad toe and neck so hopefully I'll finish this little project by Monday. Once the metal front panel is done I'll cover it in black vinyl of some sort or possibly have it powder coated black (if I catch the powder coater before they do my engine parts)

[djmtsu]

Looks familiar......
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_OFjbTkyhkOs/R7DiITq_W0I/AAAAAAAACh8/keYbZyDwjMs/s800/FCint.JPG

I had one of the DIN/Gauge mounts that 1FasT2 built. He only made about 50, so it was rare. I sold it to a guy on here actually, and FerociousP has one too.

It was a little different though. It mounted to the stock headunit's 4 screws, and then the stereo mounted to it.

[JustJeff]

I remember those floating around a while back. That's where I got the idea to make one. I didn't get much done over the weekend. I found some black brushed aluminum in storage. It's left over from cutting a window into my computer case. I may start over and use that.

[mazdadude7]

i want this! i dont need but one gauge pod and then i am gonna cut out for my turbo timer

[djmtsu]

The ones that 1FasT2 made were just laser cut, pre-bent aluminum, natural finish.

To make it match the interior, I used flat black paint, and then out down a thick layer of clear coat. Looked PERFECT!

[mazdadude7]

im gonna powder coat mine :P

[Pete_89T2]

Jeff - you've inspired me to mod my existing setup. I currently have the gauges mounted on the bottom, and am using a home-modified Crutchfield radio install kit to mount my HU & gauges. I still have my stock HU mounting brackets, so this should work for me too. One question though - can you elaborate on how you secured the front panel to the HU brackets? If I understand correctly, you bent boths sides of the panel back 90* (at the lines), then screwed them to the HU brackets using some plastic stand-offs to fill the gaps?

Only problem I know I'm going to have doing this mod is getting the antenna to connect to my HU in the lower location. As it is, the JVC head unit I have doesn't have the "pigtail" type antenna connector, so I have less cable slack to work with - it just makes it as-is. Will probably need to find/make a 3~6 inch antenna patch cable.

[djmtsu]

As it is, the JVC head unit I have doesn't have the "pigtail" type antenna connector, so I have less cable slack to work with - it just makes it as-is. Will probably need to find/make a 3~6 inch antenna patch cable.

I had the same issue with my Pioneer. Advance Auto Parts has a 3" extension, I think it was around $5.

[JustJeff]

Jeff - you've inspired me to mod my existing setup. I currently have the gauges mounted on the bottom, and am using a home-modified Crutchfield radio install kit to mount my HU & gauges. I still have my stock HU mounting brackets, so this should work for me too. One question though - can you elaborate on how you secured the front panel to the HU brackets? If I understand correctly, you bent boths sides of the panel back 90* (at the lines), then screwed them to the HU brackets using some plastic stand-offs to fill the gaps?

Only problem I know I'm going to have doing this mod is getting the antenna to connect to my HU in the lower location. As it is, the JVC head unit I have doesn't have the "pigtail" type antenna connector, so I have less cable slack to work with - it just makes it as-is. Will probably need to find/make a 3~6 inch antenna patch cable.

YAY!! My mother would be so proud that I've inspired someone :blush5:

I had the same thing going on with a plastic HU bracket and a cheapo 3 gauge DIN panel. The angle was so bad on the temp gauge that I had to turn it sideways for me to read the relevant numbers.
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/23833_1331690766701_1063965498_30958512_2780486_n. jpg

I haven't finished the project. The factory speakers were blown and distorting badly from just the Eclipse internal amp. I've got a total of 9 speakers to go in the car. I put 4 of them in with an amp. Now that I've got some basic tunes in the car I'll get back to the HU mod.

You've got it right on bending and using plastic spacers. But I'm starting over. I used snips to cut the 22ga metal. I expected the snips to leave an uneven cut, but was planning to hide the mangled cut behind the center dash cover. I'm not sure that it'll end up covered so there might be some uneven waivering surface showing.

One other reason is I found some leftover thicker gauge aluminum from cutting a window in my computer case. It's thick enough that I could use a jigsaw to cut and would end up with nice edges.

One thing I might be changing with the re-do is I might keep the gauge faceplate separate from the HU. The HU sits back pretty far and if I cut a DIN opening for the HU then the entire faceplate needs to match that depth. If I cut the faceplate above the HU then I can play with the depth of gauge panel.

[JustJeff]

Finally got around to doing more with this. I started over with the black aluminum panel. I did it double DIN and that made it so much easier.

A little tape to help protect the surface and keep it pretty. It's also very useful cause I had a surface to write on and make notes.
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/230647_1924695151440_1063965498_32027305_3830611_n .jpg

The notches up top are for the screws on the bracket. I used a 2" hole cutter drill bit thingie. The middle one skipped and cut into the panel. It's not terribly noticeable once it's in the car. I'll probably just touch it up with some flat black paint.
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/225077_1924696151465_1063965498_32027309_3693960_n .jpg

One important thing...if I had made the outer gauges any further out the mounting bracket would not have fit. What I did for spacing them...well beyond simply measuring was this. I mounted the bracket and mounted the center dash molding and traced the edges so I knew what area I had to work with. I did it because the gauge panel does not sit quite even on the headunit bracket. If I measured end to end of the gauge panel the holes would not have been centered once it was in the car.
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/227344_1924695871458_1063965498_32027308_4132124_n .jpg

There it is mounted. I still need to touch up the scrapes and actually wire in gauges...but that can wait till I'm installing the rebuilt engine.
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/227810_1924696271468_1063965498_32027310_690031_n. jpg

[infernosg]

Looks familiar......
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_OFjbTkyhkOs/R7DiITq_W0I/AAAAAAAACh8/keYbZyDwjMs/s800/FCint.JPG

I had one of the DIN/Gauge mounts that 1FasT2 built. He only made about 50, so it was rare. I sold it to a guy on here actually, and FerociousP has one too.

It was a little different though. It mounted to the stock headunit's 4 screws, and then the stereo mounted to it.
That would be me :)

I'm actually in the process of playing with its install now. I'm curious how you guys are supporting the radio from behind. I purchased the car with an afternarket radio already installed but from what I could tell it wasn't anchored to anything.

[JustJeff]

Mine isn't anchored to anything in the back. Its mounted on the front two screws on OEM bracket and that's it. I haven't had any problems with CDs skipping so I've left it. IF I wanted to I could drill two holes and have the OEM mount on two rear screws. But those are on the sides not the rear of the HU.

[djmtsu]

I used a small section of that bendy metal strip with holes in it......yeah.

I just put a bolt through the back of the stereo (most have one threaded hole) and then angled/adjusted the bendy bracket to rest on the bottom of the inside of the dash. It never moved, and never skipped!

[JustJeff]

The HU has gotten buggy since I put the gauges in. It'll do random odd things. Yesterday it started scanning thru the CD track. Then it took time to respond to buttons. Then it got stuck scanning and I couldn't power it off without turning the car off. I took the HU out and it might have been warmer than it should have been...though I've never compared heat levels. With the HU out but wired in it no longer was buggy. Today on the way home from work it again got buggy. I didn't give it much time and powered it off for fear of doing heat damage.

I think what's going on is that the spaghetti wires combined with the 3 gauges isn't giving the HU enough air to breath and cool. What is strange is that the HU shouldn't be using it's internal amp for anything...well unless it's always on/off with the HU. I have the speaker outputs wired into the factory harness. BUT the only output that is being used is for the headrest speakers and they are powered by the OEM amp and controls. I have an external amp for the door components. I haven't added any other speakers or amps yet. So all the HU for speaker power should really be doing is providing an on/off for the OEM headrest amp.

None of this happened until I put the gauges in. So it's either ironic timing for the HU to give out, or I need to move some of the wiring around. I've got the antenna relay in with the rest of harnesses.

First thing I'll do is get that out of there and mount it under the dash somewhere.

After that my next option is that one of the models of Eclipse came with a fan. My heatsink on the back is machined for a tiny fan complete with screwholes. I'll measure and get a fan and simply have it always on/off with the HU.

One other thing didn't hit me till I was on the way home from work. This vert has a history of creating LOTS of ambient heat from the drivetrain. It was my father's vert before I bought it from him. While my father owned it we've needed to replace the shifter boot 3-4 times. And you can feel the heat coming from the shifter opening, the transmission tunnel and in the lower dash. Much more heat than my previous two verts, or his current vert.

What I'm thinking is that he must be missing some of the heat shielding under the car. Though it's 100% OEM except for a RB exhaust and the HU that I just recently installed. Only thing I can think is that it's got a Mazda reman'd engine. Perhaps the dealership, for whatever reason didn't put heat shields back on the transmission tunnel?

It can't be a previous owner because my father has owned the car since 1991ish. The only thing done to the car other than routine maintenance is the reman'd engine and a paint job.

[Pete_89T2]

Resurrecting an old thread... As I said before, Jeff's writeup inspired me to try this gauge mounting setup in my FC. 7 months later I finally had the time to do it! Previously I had my gauges in the empty DIN slot under the radio. Basically followed Jeff's general plan for flip-flopping them, by reusing the stock radio mount brackets and some hefty sheet metal I recycled from an old computer case to fabricate the panel. Started with some cardboard to make a template, and played with that till I was happy with the test fit. Then went to work recreating the template in metal. After some work with the jigsaw, hole saw and a bit of metal bending later, I got the gauge panel you see here.

Here's a picture of the panel, mounted with stock brackets, my JVC head unit & gauges test fit:

11422

Lucky for me, the front threaded holes on my HU that lined up perfectly with holes already in the stock bracket, and they put the thing at just the right depth when test fit in the car, so I didn't have to resort to making slotted holes as Jeff did for the in & out adjustment. Just drilled a 2nd hole in each bracket (to get 2 screws per side for strength) that line up with another existing threaded hole in the head unit. Here's a pic that shows the screws:

11423

And here's how it looks test fit in the car, without the console surround piece:

11424

And now with the surround piece:

11425

If the gauges look crooked, it's because I didn't bother to line them up perfectly and fully tighten the U-clamps on the back. I made the holes a wee bit oversize to provide a bit of adjustability. Now I just need to finish it, because I don't like the shiny metal look. Either going to paint it satin black to match the interior, or I might cover it with some black vinyl I have leftover from another project (DIY hatch cargo cover) that is a perfect match for my leather interior.

[speedjunkie]

I love making things like this. I did something similar but the FD doesn't have a whole lot of room to play with. I just remade a prior plastic piece though. I might have to do this with my TII, if I ever build it lol. This is awesome.

[JustJeff]

Resurrecting an old thread... As I said before, Jeff's writeup inspired me to try this gauge mounting setup in my FC. 7 months later I finally had the time to do it! Previously I had my gauges in the empty DIN slot under the radio. Basically followed Jeff's general plan for flip-flopping them, by reusing the stock radio mount brackets and some hefty sheet metal I recycled from an old computer case to fabricate the panel. Started with some cardboard to make a template, and played with that till I was happy with the test fit. Then went to work recreating the template in metal. After some work with the jigsaw, hole saw and a bit of metal bending later, I got the gauge panel you see here.

Here's a picture of the panel, mounted with stock brackets, my JVC head unit & gauges test fit:

11422

Lucky for me, the front threaded holes on my HU that lined up perfectly with holes already in the stock bracket, and they put the thing at just the right depth when test fit in the car, so I didn't have to resort to making slotted holes as Jeff did for the in & out adjustment. Just drilled a 2nd hole in each bracket (to get 2 screws per side for strength) that line up with another existing threaded hole in the head unit. Here's a pic that shows the screws:

11423

And here's how it looks test fit in the car, without the console surround piece:

11424

And now with the surround piece:

11425

If the gauges look crooked, it's because I didn't bother to line them up perfectly and fully tighten the U-clamps on the back. I made the holes a wee bit oversize to provide a bit of adjustability. Now I just need to finish it, because I don't like the shiny metal look. Either going to paint it satin black to match the interior, or I might cover it with some black vinyl I have leftover from another project (DIY hatch cargo cover) that is a perfect match for my leather interior.

I like your's, great work.

I'm thinking of re-relocating my gauge. I'd loose my oil temp gauge and put my boost, water temp and oil pressure all on the a-pillar. I have one single pod and one double pod for the a-pillar. Reason being, I'm giving serious thought to building a carputer. I"ve been building computers for a long time and have enough spare parts to build a serviceable carputer. I've got a motherboard, CPU, RAM and spare hard drives. The only real expenses would be getting a 7" touch lcd monitor and building an enclosure.

The only other obstacle is wanting a solid state hard drive. My concern is that a traditional hard drive is going to fail from shock and vibration. I have Illuminas and Tein springs and I just don't see a non-SSD having much of a lifespan. I'd buy a small SSD and only keep OS and bare minimum software. All my entertainment would be on USB flash drives.

My idea is to put the enclosure in the trunk with a push button control in the glovebox for my power supply. I can also run a usb port from the glove box.

Well one other thing to consider is that I have a convertible and the LCD monitor is NOT going to like direct sunlight during the top-down warm weather. It may be so washed out from the glare that it will be barely useable. I may have to spring for one of the expensive LCD designed for outdoor use.

[infernosg]

Looks familiar......
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_OFjbTkyhkOs/R7DiITq_W0I/AAAAAAAACh8/keYbZyDwjMs/s800/FCint.JPG

I had one of the DIN/Gauge mounts that 1FasT2 built. He only made about 50, so it was rare. I sold it to a guy on here actually, and FerociousP has one too.

It was a little different though. It mounted to the stock headunit's 4 screws, and then the stereo mounted to it.

That would be me :)

I'm actually in the process of playing with its install now. I'm curious how you guys are supporting the radio from behind. I purchased the car with an afternarket radio already installed but from what I could tell it wasn't anchored to anything.

Finally got it installed shortly before the holidays. The color is a little off but it looks good enough for me.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nUwknpkJWwI/Tupby0PyV9I/AAAAAAAAAk0/EuNLDMNaLhE/s640/2011-12-15_15-37-58_364.jpg

[speedjunkie]

That looks good! I'll definitely be keeping this in mind. Makes me want to get to work on mine haha.

[Raksj04]

I would show you guys what I did but it isnt very good. All I have is a Dremel I really need a drill with a hole bit. I how ever have the radio on top and my car is a S4

[Pete_89T2]

I like your's, great work.

Thanks, since the last post I finished it off with a satin black paint that has a very fine sand-like texture to it. Matches my S5 center console texture & color well; will have to shoot a picture later to show it off. I tried covering the panel with the black fake leather as I mentioned, but that effort was a failure. The 3M spray adhesive I used didn't give a reliable enough "stick" along the narrow edges by the radio - vinyl kept curling up along the edges. So I had to strip it all off, then prep & paint.

I'm thinking of re-relocating my gauge. I'd loose my oil temp gauge and put my boost, water temp and oil pressure all on the a-pillar. I have one single pod and one double pod for the a-pillar. Reason being, I'm giving serious thought to building a carputer. I"ve been building computers for a long time and have enough spare parts to build a serviceable carputer. I've got a motherboard, CPU, RAM and spare hard drives. The only real expenses would be getting a 7" touch lcd monitor and building an enclosure.

Due to the motor-mouse belts, you can only get 1 gauge on the A-pillar of the S5 coupes; that's where I have my boost/vac gauge. Might be able to fit 2 gauges, but it would be tight. 'Vert owners catch a break here.

The only other obstacle is wanting a solid state hard drive. My concern is that a traditional hard drive is going to fail from shock and vibration. I have Illuminas and Tein springs and I just don't see a non-SSD having much of a lifespan. I'd buy a small SSD and only keep OS and bare minimum software. All my entertainment would be on USB flash drives.

With proper shock/vibration isolation mounts, you shouldn't have any reliability issues with a regular hard drive in a car. 27+ years engineering experience with the DoD/Army has convinced me that even the most fragile of gadgets can be made to operate reliably in combat vehicles for a very long time with a well designed mount. Look in the boneyards for late-model luxury cars (MB/Lexus/Infinity, etc) that have built in hard-disk based nav & entertainment systems - you might get lucky and find shock mounts that can be re-purposed. Another source could be junked cop cars, as many now have shock/vibe mount plates attached to the dash/center console for laptops and all the other electronic crap cop cruisers carry these days.

My idea is to put the enclosure in the trunk with a push button control in the glovebox for my power supply. I can also run a usb port from the glove box.

USB cable length may become an issue here, presuming the motherboard/USB hub is in the trunk. USB spec calls out a max. cable length, something like 6 feet. Beyond that, and there's no guarantee that whatever you connect to it will work - some USB devices will, others won't.

Well one other thing to consider is that I have a convertible and the LCD monitor is NOT going to like direct sunlight during the top-down warm weather. It may be so washed out from the glare that it will be barely useable. I may have to spring for one of the expensive LCD designed for outdoor use.

Yup, that and polarized sunglasses will make just about any affordable monitor hard to read.

[JustJeff]

With proper shock/vibration isolation mounts, you shouldn't have any reliability issues with a regular hard drive in a car. 27+ years engineering experience with the DoD/Army has convinced me that even the most fragile of gadgets can be made to operate reliably in combat vehicles for a very long time with a well designed mount. Look in the boneyards for late-model luxury cars (MB/Lexus/Infinity, etc) that have built in hard-disk based nav & entertainment systems - you might get lucky and find shock mounts that can be re-purposed. Another source could be junked cop cars, as many now have shock/vibe mount plates attached to the dash/center console for laptops and all the other electronic crap cop cruisers carry these days.

Yeah, I've thought about vibration dampening. I was thinking of finding some rubber stand offs from random electronics, but I like your idea of finding some OEM parts.

USB cable length may become an issue here, presuming the motherboard/USB hub is in the trunk. USB spec calls out a max. cable length, something like 6 feet. Beyond that, and there's no guarantee that whatever you connect to it will work - some USB devices will, others won't.

I've been thinking about the same thing with the USB cable length. Two options might be a powered USB hub or simply get a 32GB flash drive and keep it attached to the carputer and in the trunk. With something that large I wouldn't need to swap flash drives, I'd simply have to take it in to my desktop to update it.

Yup, that and polarized sunglasses will make just about any affordable monitor hard to read.

Excellent point, I didn't even think about polarized sunglasses. Between the convertible and biking, nice sunglasses are a must. The cheapest I saw 7" touch LCD designed for outdoor use was $400. But I work for an IT company that does a lot of repair work. We have two techs making a killing repairing iPhones, smartphones, tablets and laptops. Maybe Fate will smile on me and I"ll find a broken touch LCD in need of repairs?

[Pete_89T2]

Decided to mess with the gauges above the radio again. With the gauges flat in the panel at that location, I found it was still difficult to see the entire gauge face and read it at a glance. Always wanted to figure out a way to point them slightly upwards and towards the driver's sightline. Then I had a clever idea to re-purpose some plastic bits that came with my gauges. In my case, the Prosport gauges I have all came with these plastic sunshields. If you slip the gauge into the rings backwards, I figured the part could be modified to make an angle mount. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about:

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11475&stc=1&d=1326687460

And now the original piece, next to a modified one that gets me a good viewing angle. I determined the angle by trial & error test fitting - and the angle that worked for me may not work for all drivers. I'm 6'0" and sit with the seat all the way back; a shorter guy who sits closer to the wheel will need more angle to get a good sightline. Anyway, the angle is subtle, and just enough to point the gauge face toward the driver. To repeat that angle for 2 more gauges, I made up a wood jig to replicate the angle and used it with a miter box & hacksaw to make the cuts on the other 2 rings.

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11477&stc=1&d=1326687738

Since space is limited, you need to glue the right-most ring to the panel first, and then the center ring needs a bit of shaping so it "steps over" the ring to the right. Do the same thing with the left ring, letting it step over the center one. Don't worry if the cuts/grinding are not perfect, the gauge rim will likely cover the gaps, or you can fill with bondo & paint. You'll probably want to paint it anyway, which is what I did. Here's the setup ready for installation in the car.

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11480&stc=1&d=1326687888

And here it is completed, right from driver's point of view. Note that you can clearly see the entire gauge face at a glance :sifone:

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11479&stc=1&d=1326687888

[speedjunkie]

That's pretty badass man. Nice work.

[Raksj04]

Nice now only if some was able to make a group buy out of this.

[JustJeff]

Awesome work Pete!!

I definitely like that and had been trying to figure out how to angle mine. Can I see a picture from the side of your bracket. Looks like you have all 3 warning/Premium gauges. Only one of mine is the shallower warning gauge. I wouldn't be able to angle my Performance gauges because they are deeper and the far right one wouldn't have room because of the bracket. I suppose I could put the warning to the far right so that it can be angled.

I'm actually thinking of replacing my Prosports, so angling might have to wait till they are replaced...if I go with a different brand. Of my 3 gauges only my oil temp gauge is working. My water temp gauge and premium oil pressure gauge do not read from the senders. They illuminate fine but do not register any readings.

My water temp gauge was working at one time and now during opening ceremony it pegs at around 160 and never goes lower...even during opening ceremony. The water temp sender works fine. If I plug my oil temp gauge into the water temp sensor it reads just fine. The oil pressure gauge I bought new from a forum member. It was new when I got it. It illuminates fine, but never reads anything but zero. The oil pressure could be my bad on wiring, but I've double checked it and everything seems correct.

I may get some STRI or AEM rather than replace the Prosports with more Prosports.

[Pete_89T2]

Awesome work Pete!!

I definitely like that and had been trying to figure out how to angle mine. Can I see a picture from the side of your bracket. Looks like you have all 3 warning/Premium gauges. Only one of mine is the shallower warning gauge. I wouldn't be able to angle my Performance gauges because they are deeper and the far right one wouldn't have room because of the bracket. I suppose I could put the warning to the far right so that it can be angled.

I'm actually thinking of replacing my Prosports, so angling might have to wait till they are replaced...if I go with a different brand. Of my 3 gauges only my oil temp gauge is working. My water temp gauge and premium oil pressure gauge do not read from the senders. They illuminate fine but do not register any readings.

My water temp gauge was working at one time and now during opening ceremony it pegs at around 160 and never goes lower...even during opening ceremony. The water temp sender works fine. If I plug my oil temp gauge into the water temp sensor it reads just fine. The oil pressure gauge I bought new from a forum member. It was new when I got it. It illuminates fine, but never reads anything but zero. The oil pressure could be my bad on wiring, but I've double checked it and everything seems correct.

I may get some STRI or AEM rather than replace the Prosports with more Prosports.

Thanks! Those are the only pictures I took before installing it back in the center console, so the additional side views may have to wait. These are the basic Prosport "Performance series", oil pressure, water & oil temp gauges that don't have the peak/hold warning features. If your gauges are significantly deeper, the bracket sides behind the panel will limit how much you can angle them. The good thing is that it doesn't take much of an angle to make them readable - presuming you don't sit too close to the wheel.

Sounds like your water temp gauge may have a fried stepper movement since you tested both the wiring & sender by substituting in the oil temp gauge. I'd check w/Prosport to see if they will cover it. The OP gauge sounds like either a wiring issue or a bad sender.

[JustJeff]

Thanks! Those are the only pictures I took before installing it back in the center console, so the additional side views may have to wait. These are the basic Prosport "Performance series", oil pressure, water & oil temp gauges that don't have the peak/hold warning features. If your gauges are significantly deeper, the bracket sides behind the panel will limit how much you can angle them. The good thing is that it doesn't take much of an angle to make them readable - presuming you don't sit too close to the wheel.

Sounds like your water temp gauge may have a fried stepper movement since you tested both the wiring & sender by substituting in the oil temp gauge. I'd check w/Prosport to see if they will cover it. The OP gauge sounds like either a wiring issue or a bad sender.

My temp gauges must be older version. They are much deeper than yours. My Premium/warning Prosport pressure gauge is short like yours. I doubt that Prosport will cover them because I bought them all from forum members. The temp gauges were used and the pressure gauge was new but not purchased from a vendor.