Bad idle, Hesitation under load, black smoke

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[J-Rat]

Jesus! Might just want to go ahead and slave in a spare ECU and see what happens.

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[Rotary_Rocket_87]

Check to see if all the electrical connectors are tight under the hood. My car did something very similar to yours cause the TPS and AIT sensors had come unhooked.

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[J-Rat]

Actually, you would have to check the voltage after the resistance drop, with the red lead on the proper pole of the sensor and the other lead on a chassis ground.

[FRFC3S]

Actually, you would have to check the voltage after the resistance drop, with the red lead on the proper pole of the sensor and the other lead on a chassis ground.

Thank you J-Rat. I will try that and I will try retiming it and get back to you guys. Please post any further ideas.

[Ender]

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/TPS_Adjustment
Make sure you use the S5 instructions. Your TPS could be bad, and a reading of '1', with the 1 being all the way to the left of the multimeter screen, means that the resistance is either infinite (meaning no continuity, no connection) or you are using too low of a setting. If it's '1' all the way to the right then you are probably using too high of a setting on the meter and you should turn it down until you get a non-one reading or you are as low as it will read.

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[Ender]

I did, it's just that the TPS can be problematic even if it seems to test out ok. I and others have had it happen before.

You may be on to something with vacuum leaks, they're very common and can cause really weird problems. I found the most help from a tool that plugs the intake and has a pressure gauge mounted to it, you can pressurize the intake with the adapter that's on it. I tried a few different methods of finding vacuum leaks and none of them were a fourth as effective as doing it with this tool:
http://boostpro.net/prodtester.html
You'd want one of these two for the best results:
Boost Leak Tester (Gauged)
3" Diameter
With Tire Valve Adapter
$20 + $4.60 shipping

Boost Leak Tester (Gauged)
3" Diameter)
With Male Compressor Coupler
$20 + $4.60 shipping

And here's a DIY option that you can modify to make work for the '7:
http://www.supercar-engineering.com/rubberducky/3S/Maint/TT/IntPresTest/

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[djmtsu]

I am under the impression that if the boost sensor is bad, it would thrown the CEL. Is your light on?

Also, I have never heard of the the boost sensor failing (on its own) on an FC.

Oh, and I don't have that many CEL codes on my S5 emissions removal.

[FerociousP]

you can use a n/a ecu... you just drive easy and can't boost... that would be a good way to test the engine lights..

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