Maximum boost thread (93 oct > pump petrol/gasoline only!)

[RICE RACING]

So poofters, this thread is a log of what boost you have run on pump gas :auto:

Post it up, some proof would be nice to weed out the homosexuals from the real men :9898: NO BDC styled youtube video's or rants allowed sorry! oh and your engine must be running and actually achieved something of note (acceleration times etc)

I'll start off. RRWEP110 Water Injected.

~30psi on pump petrol and water injected

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9846&stc=1&d=1299974370

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9847&stc=1&d=1299974648

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9848&stc=1&d=1299974845

[RICE RACING]

So I am the ONLY ONE NOT LIKE BDC on this forum? FFS people post up something in these tech threads or I wont waste my time sharing :banghead:

[Mazdabater]

I would love to post something, but don't have a running car LOL

[RICE RACING]

I would love to post something, but don't have a running car LOL

Does not stop BDC or HC from posting reams of shit lol.........

But all good, when you do get it going post up and share away :iagree:

Hopefully some Americans will get behind this web site rather than posting on the poofter forum and make this section worth reading. Think of it like a forum without HC or BDC :rant:

:302:

[TitaniumTT]

I'll post when I have new numbers... nothing really impressive about 1B on stock REW twins......

I love the logs of data, I have plans to be on the dyno in 4 weeks so we'll get some logs, and runs, and vids up then.

Until then though, I'll just keep on following the thread.

[vex]

So I am the ONLY ONE NOT LIKE BDC on this forum? FFS people post up something in these tech threads or I wont waste my time sharing :banghead:

I post plenty in the tech sections (mostly Fabrication and a few others). But like everyone else, the car is under the knife.

[RICE RACING]

To give this comparison test some context:
RICESP (stock std 13B-REW engine, full catalyst exhaust, T04 type turbo, plumb back waste gate, small standard inter cooler 1310kg)
*fully compliant genuine road car*

ND4SPD (Cosmo 13B, full bridge port, T51 type turbo charger, large front mounted inter cooler, gutted exhaust, open waste gate pipe 1250kg)
*quasi race car!*

I did some very interesting comparisons to ND4SPD (Mazda Capella I tuned with RRWEP110 WI) V's RICESP via the immense analysis power of the VBOX :)

I'll list up some comparison results: About the total FALLACY of " typical dyno sheets"! v's real world power and times taken for vehicles to actually do "work" with known levels of weight/mass!!!

This car makes on a dynohomodynamics ~390rwkw on 19psi boost (full bridge port & T51 turbo 1250kg as run at race track) where we got these recordings. You will see RICESP at 1310kg run weight is just as powerful (real rwkw! power as measured by me via VBOX!) and its just as fast in peak power band too (what really matters at the end of the day rather than poofter dyno sheet comparisons)

This report is of ND4SPD in its peak power band (6000rpm to 8200rpm) = 110kph to 150kph in 3rd gear on 19psi boost (VBOX measure = ~310rwkw owner has sheets of 380 to 390rwkw on homo dynamics guess machine)
ND4SPD = 110kmh to 150kmh = 2.07 seconds
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9957&stc=1&d=1300414313

This report shows RICESP and the first one is a FC RX7 fitted with a bridge port 13B running 15psi boost and a GT35 turbo lol (you can see I am twice as fast as it lol 4.43 seconds V's 2.06 seconds!) This car apparently makes 270rwkw dynohomodynaimcs @ 16psi boost LOL! You can see these dyno figures are not worth pissing on in the REAL WORLD! and are vastly overstated from what the cars actually makes when you apply real physics to them!!!
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9956&stc=1&d=1300414015

And the other result table is at full boost when I tuned it (ND4SPD) on road just before setting national dyno record http://www.riceracing.com.au/water-injection.htm < *read customer testimonial* (which to this day still stands!) for the only ever 13B rotary to lay down 3 back to back power runs of this level and still be able to drive home :) on pump petrol :)
Boost, EGT, RPM, AFR sensors fitted in this tuning session.
RICESP = 110kmh to 150kmh = 2.06 seconds
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9958&stc=1&d=1300414770

My RX7 is pretty quick I think you will all agree :) and this is still not sharing the current state of high power tune :) *I'll save that for another day*

[RICE RACING]

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9975&stc=1&d=1300612497

So here is a report showing a mates drag car v RICESP
RICESP = 2.57 seconds (just in one gear, great show of power band)
Simon Ward = 2.64 & 2.69 seconds (high power at start of test, then less grunt shows up at higher speed, gear)
Drag car specs:
3.3lt Holden 202 (very old school set up!)
5 speed Lenco clutchless shift gearbox
1007kg car (1077kg as run in this test)
35psi boost (see logging)
Ran 6.75 @ 107mph 1/8th mile goat track in this VBOX file at night (won the event lol) *2 back to back runs*

RICESP: is the 2.48second 90-140 test std (3 gear acceleration test)
1310kg run weight Specs listed many times already!

Here is a pictures of the car. Bloke is a local legend, basically wins against all comers (I'm serious) has been running at that track for 30 years! Oh and his beast is water injected too :hurray:

I helped him jet the carburetors and set the ignition timing on it till it got as fast as it would run Via the VBOX logging, this was done during the event and these final two runs are back to back from the evening finals (night runs interesting with no head lights and poor track lighting lol!@!! (have no mph boards at local Goat track! so VBOX is invaluable! Tim cards work but run faster at track due to roll out ghetto timing lights common to ALL Drag tracks, VBOX shows slower times (depends on how deep you stage!) always as its recording exact start & not guessing like light beam bullshit!) ;) he was amazed with what "modern technology can do" BTW it has no wastegate so the boost is max it will run!!!

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9976&stc=1&d=1300613329

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9977&stc=1&d=1300613703

[RICE RACING]

This is another interesting comparison: From my collection of VBOX tests http://www.riceracing.com.au/vbox-iii-testing-tuning.htm
90kmh to 135kmh (best power gearing for the stock RX7) see rpm logging.

RICESP V Spirit R Type A (stock standard)

Car specs:
Spirit R Type A
1335kg as run
280PS factory rated engine (100% stock std no mods at all)
Car ran 0-100kmh in 5.55 seconds & 13.85 second @ 104.78mph RR V-BOX Recorded for 1/4 mile *no roll out*
Time = 5.06 seconds & 158 meters

RICESP:
~21psi Rice Racing Engineered Water Injected Monster :)
1310kg as run
Power is over double a factory RX7 (see actual VBOX RR rwkw measure) so roughly double the power, double the acceleration & half the time required to do it and distance as well :)
Time = 2.21 seconds & 69 meters

VBOX File report
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9985&stc=1&d=1300705759

[RICE RACING]

:auto:

She has passed the 1.8kg/cm durability tests with flying colors :) & the performance is amazing. We have the new settings at 2.10kg/cm (over 2 bar gauge, 300kpa ABS, 30+psi in the old money)..... there is still plenty of margin left in the set up to run 2.5kg/cm in street trim but as before will run at the intermediate step to prove it rather than do a one off power pull BS type sheet posting as is the norm among most kiddies shops or internet experts ;)

The acceleration is gag factor to the max! it's not scary but I tell you it does make your arsehole pulsate in mild fear if you have not sampled this kind of thing recently.......... :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) !!!!!!!!!!!

[project86]

im not at all familiar with tuning as i have never had the need or means tor try. but im getting the point here and its extremely impressive.

[RICE RACING]

Bumpski!

2bar boost for a long time now.

Any other pretenders out there who have not blown up BDC or HC style on inferior meth injection yet LOL??????????????

Beuller ???????

[RICE RACING]

RICE you are a mad ****

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXYAJWAV7YY

This is great reference for you.

86mph the 638bhp ZR-1 pulls 0.44G Mine 0.570G

110mph 0.31G Mine 0.411G

ZR-1 = 3350lb as tested
RICESP = 2910lb as tested

Power peak for both cars in two different gear (you can guess the power of my car) it's somewhere around/near/over? 600bhp as remember at higher speeds aero dynamic loads play more effect than weight

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-SW0H8smRc

100kmh to 200kmh

ZR-1 = about 7.2 seconds
RICESP = 6.2 seconds

[PSI]

220kpa or 31.9psi on pump gas with water only injection - 75mm turbo. Will save a log next time I have my lap top in the car.
No CDI ignition either.

[TitaniumTT]

:rofl: This should be entertaining
What are you running for ignition?

[RICE RACING]

:rofl: This should be entertaining


Posts #7 through #9 would be the kind of thing I'd hope people would use as some kind of back up to legitimize their claims of boost or power and matching PERFORMANCE :cheers2: but this is the internet and in rotary world (unlike on 6speed.com forum) cunts all over the webz/internetz seem to broke to even afford a few hundred dollar VBOX based GPS instrument that would dispel any doubters :biggthumpup:

Some pics of you (your name, where you are from) and your car (type, weight etc) and some kind of proof of it running for longer than one dyno pull or one track day..... would be nice to anyone wanting to post up in this thread :ugh2:

For any young players feel free to send my your VBOX files and I can verify your cars performance claims

p.s. my current boost setting is 35psi :tongue1: :boxing_smiley:

[PSI]

lol settle down dude, there's more than one way to skin a cat...

It seems boost went higher than I thought - 233kpa or 33.79psi
I do know that the engine will not missfire until AFR's get down to the high 9's at this boost level. The current Series 5 engine has done over 150 dyno pulls thankyou, starting with a 60mm turbo and upgrading to a 75mm.

I am running a Link ECU, microtech x4 igniter and ice inductive coilpacks. oh and NGK race plugs and magnecor wires. I have not checked water flow at this boost level but I'm guessing 800-900cc per min.

[RICE RACING]

lol settle down dude, there's more than one way to skin a cat...

It seems boost went higher than I thought - 233kpa or 33.79psi
I do know that the engine will not missfire until AFR's get down to the high 9's at this boost level. The current Series 5 engine has done over 150 dyno pulls thankyou, starting with a 60mm turbo and upgrading to a 75mm.

I am running a Link ECU, microtech x4 igniter and ice inductive coilpacks. oh and NGK race plugs and magnecor wires. I have not checked water flow at this boost level but I'm guessing 800-900cc per min.

You have allot of fucked up values in that ECU stat screen, why is that?
Show me a log of the car pulling 3rd and 4th gear, what is it fitted too? how fast is it? What map sensor do you have fitted to the car? have you actually calibrated it to the internal BAP sensor?

I'd like some more details :biggthumpup:

Where are you from? what is your name? show us your set up too would be nice :Chevy_anim:

[TitaniumTT]

My M820 will log speed, that's all you want to see right? Time and speed. You'll have to do the conversion from mph to that silly thing you see :rofl:

[RICE RACING]

My M820 will log speed, that's all you want to see right? Time and speed. You'll have to do the conversion from mph to that silly thing you see :rofl:

As you can see in the Motec thread on the M170 (latest ECU fitted to a superbike) wheel speeds are totally wrong compared to even a ghetto GPS velocity trace (as per the Motec garmin ghetto facility logged on the ECU at the same time).

But at absolute MINIMUM I would like to see some kind of velocity trace, YES. If its based off wheel speeds then you are always going off a wrong trace then overlaid on top of that is the honesty of the calibration to make the speed reading right + the wheel slip factor added on top.

To measure velocity CORRECTLY to determine honest speed you really need a GPS signal, top shelf stuff is around 100Hz Ghetto like Motec is around 5Hz lol, either way its 1 million times better than a wheel speed trace ;)

Consider your self edumecated LOL :conehead:

p.s. To validate ANY claims of speed to distance I also want to see the hieght and slope of where you run, again any decent GPS instrument will allow this, most ECU hack boxes will not ;), run down hill = much much faster ;), most people cheat themselves LOL

[RICE RACING]

In all seriousness, PSI welcome, let us know who you are and what your set up is.

It sounds like its NZ or Australian to me, as no one I know would run a Microwreck product lol especially combined with a Link ECU haha.

If its a drag car link us some specs, times weight etc :001_302:

p.s. I tuned a car with Microwreck ignitor with ICE boosters in 2004 with Water Injection and low AFR, it just always fouled plugs (racing ones). Given the Links ability to blow up engines when running CDI's if you use any of the limiting functions then this combo is probably not a bad thing anyway

[RICE RACING]

My M820 will log speed, that's all you want to see right? Time and speed. You'll have to do the conversion from mph to that silly thing you see :rofl:

Even in a near 700bhp car like mine with race tires on the back and true calibrated wheel speed sensors to the VBOX under acceleration you either have (under speed) on front wheels *due to them not being in full contact with the ground* even in 3rd gear! OR you have over rotation or wheel slip in the order of 4% or more @ 100mph. So you NEVER ever get a true velocity trace using wheel speed sensors.

This is why F1 cars run pitot tubes and also GPS speed traces to get true velocities.

I should post up a graph of time and velocity to REAL time and velocity off an ECU log v's a VBOX GPS log, in a short test like a 90-140kmh 3rd gear power band test you can have differences of up to 0.2 seconds (faster on ECU log v's a real log with a true speed trace that is accurate).

Velocity is NOT easy to measure, you need lab not LEB grade equipment to do so. Only company that does this properly is Race Logic and the top end gear VB3i is like 20k+ *fully kitted out* lol (I know I have it).

[PSI]

You have allot of fucked up values in that ECU stat screen, why is that?
Show me a log of the car pulling 3rd and 4th gear, what is it fitted too? how fast is it? What map sensor do you have fitted to the car? have you actually calibrated it to the internal BAP sensor?

I'd like some more details :biggthumpup:

Where are you from? what is your name? show us your set up too would be nice :Chevy_anim:

Max INJ - I can't explain and have never seen it logged that high
Max ECT - went that high due to air lock
Max IAT - pins broke off sensor and were intermittently touching engine
ECU temp - ECU is mounted on top of trans tunnel

I am using the internal 4 bar map sensor and it has been calibrated.

Vehicle is a 323 with a basically stock Series 5 engine and intake. It weighs 1049.5kg on the track scales and has done a 9.11 at 149.9mph at 215kpa boost. The car is street legal and runs a full exhaust and all the seats etc and is still on leaf springs.

[RICE RACING]

Max INJ - I can't explain and have never seen it logged that high
Max ECT - went that high due to air lock
Max IAT - pins broke off sensor and were intermittently touching engine
ECU temp - ECU is mounted on top of trans tunnel

I am using the internal 4 bar map sensor and it has been calibrated.

Vehicle is a 323 with a basically stock Series 5 engine and intake. It weighs 1049.5kg on the track scales and has done a 9.11 at 149.9mph at 215kpa boost. The car is street legal and runs a full exhaust and all the seats etc and is still on leaf springs.

So you are Green Brothers? or affiliated with them???

[RICE RACING]

So you are Green Brothers? or affiliated with them???

Did you not want us to know who you are? don't be shy.

Please list your set up so others can learn from you, that is mostly what this forum is about.

[RICE RACING]

I got more logs with the Link showing 231kpa Gauge pressure on a 100kpa day (331kpa absolute) (and zeroed to BAP sensor) showing 33.2psi on the Blitz SBC I-Color :)

When my internet gets of gay sex speed I'll post up some pics, and no I wont go shy cause cunts know who I am either lol.

[RICE RACING]

Here is pics as promised c7nts

Parameters at start of test (before starting engine) 18deg C day
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11836&stc=1&d=1334553373

Mid range mega boost, 33.2psi!
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11834&stc=1&d=1334553828

1.742 seconds 90kmh to 140kmh! excellent charge temps, mega boost
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11835&stc=1&d=1334553297

[RICE RACING]

Image Shack eats balls! hope this works now.

Conditions at start of test, 18 deg C Ambient
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/7628/testconditionsatstartof.jpg

Mid range boost 33.2 psi Blitz boost SBC I-Color
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/8448/midrangeboost220kpaecul.jpg

90kmh to 140kmh 3rd gear test std power band test, very quick.
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/8775/90to140kmh33psiruneculo.jpg

100kmh to 169kmh = 3.71 seconds short test
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/869/100kmhto169kmh371second.jpg

[RICE RACING]

PSI or JZN otherwise known as Green Brothers in New Zealand not shy to post his copy of my water injection ideas here > LOL > http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=974884

Shame he got all shy and can't be fucked updating the thread here since I know who he is :o10:

[RICE RACING]

220kpa or 31.9psi on pump gas with water only injection - 75mm turbo. Will save a log next time I have my lap top in the car.
No CDI ignition either.

This is a common mistake for newbies thinking they can run water injection without a CDI ignition system, I read about how you dented your rotor, and make more power by reducing water, the problem you have is you are letting the motor dictate to you how to run due to the lack of ignition power and not you dictating to the motor how it will run safely.

The splitting of your water tank is another common newbie mistake, if you pay close attention to my WI thread (which I know you have!) you will see the detailed construction of my water tank, it is CNC folded and has not welded seems at all in its construction the end caps are folded over and lap welded. This is the only thing that lasts long term in the pressure ranges we run, also you need to use very thick plate, not light shit most cunts use.

I STRONGLY recommend you switch over to WM50, it is vastly superior to running just plain water, again you can experiment yourself on this but I will safe you allot of time and more broken engine parts ;)

The water jet you think you have copied from me is nothing like what I run ;) you will need to work out your quantities for yourself.

The mac valve will work with WM50 not a problem, I know I have been using it for a lot of years with my customers and myself in my own car for the last 2 years.

You are really wasting your time bouncing off ideas on rx7club, they are just a bunch of useless cunts over there with not one idea of much at all.

Feel free to come good on who you really are and feel free to share information here, I am willing to help anyone who is up front and not too scared to hide behind the internet ;)

Best Regards. :fawk:

[Kwerks]

This is my favorite thread! <3

[RICE RACING]

This is my favorite thread! <3

Mine too :grouphug:

[Brad]

rice, in the near future i will try to post up some of my logs from my link in my t04z fd with wm50 (post turbo sorry). did you get the wire-in xtreme ecu or the plugin fd ecu? if the wire-in, did you use the standard vehicle speed input to the stock computer for logging purposes?

Brad.

[RICE RACING]

rice, in the near future i will try to post up some of my logs from my link in my t04z fd with wm50 (post turbo sorry). did you get the wire-in xtreme ecu or the plugin fd ecu? if the wire-in, did you use the standard vehicle speed input to the stock computer for logging purposes?

Brad.

ECU board fitted inside original Mazda ECU case in my car, just cause its a super rare SP factory RX7.

Don't be sorry, more people who run these cars and at this level the better, you are part of a very exclusive club :biggthumpup:

stock speed sensor, calibrated off my Race Logic GPS, but still these things are out due to wheel slip, still not a bad reference if you have non high quality speed trace via race logic gear.

[RICE RACING]

So, in 20+ years one thing has remained constant............. FUCK ALL people know how to make a true road going 13B this fast ;) People come, people go, fortunes are squandered and promises are broken, but still there is only one constant and that is that FUCK ALL people can make these engines as fast and as reliable as I have proven since back before the advent of the internet and the useless cunts that post on them in forums lol.

You don't just see this in this useless space, you see it in everything from Pikes Peak, to your local sports racing series and the new fangeled world of "time attack" worlds latest trend of cock bag no bodies claiming to be the world leaders LOL.

Even Mazda Japan gave up on the turbocharged 13B in mid 1980's in the 717C cause it sent them broke trying to keep up with far smaller piston turbo's ....... they sold out! and went NA 3 rotor then 4 rotor.

The older I get the more I realize water injection is the only hope for turbo rotaries, and still people just do not get it LOL. Ahhhhhh all hail generation useless and the IT generation of cock gaggers LOL

[PSI]

PSI or JZN otherwise known as Green Brothers in New Zealand not shy to post his copy of my water injection ideas here > LOL > http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=974884

Shame he got all shy and can't be fucked updating the thread here since I know who he is :o10:

This is a common mistake for newbies thinking they can run water injection without a CDI ignition system, I read about how you dented your rotor, and make more power by reducing water, the problem you have is you are letting the motor dictate to you how to run due to the lack of ignition power and not you dictating to the motor how it will run safely.

The splitting of your water tank is another common newbie mistake, if you pay close attention to my WI thread (which I know you have!) you will see the detailed construction of my water tank, it is CNC folded and has not welded seems at all in its construction the end caps are folded over and lap welded. This is the only thing that lasts long term in the pressure ranges we run, also you need to use very thick plate, not light shit most cunts use.

I STRONGLY recommend you switch over to WM50, it is vastly superior to running just plain water, again you can experiment yourself on this but I will safe you allot of time and more broken engine parts ;)

The water jet you think you have copied from me is nothing like what I run ;) you will need to work out your quantities for yourself.

The mac valve will work with WM50 not a problem, I know I have been using it for a lot of years with my customers and myself in my own car for the last 2 years.

You are really wasting your time bouncing off ideas on rx7club, they are just a bunch of useless cunts over there with not one idea of much at all.

Feel free to come good on who you really are and feel free to share information here, I am willing to help anyone who is up front and not too scared to hide behind the internet ;)

Best Regards. :fawk:



I don’t mind if you know who I am. I’d actually forgotten about this thread.

To set the record straight, I did not copy you. I got the idea and basic design from a friend and rotary pioneer in NZ (RIP) who ran water injection in his 13B turbo powered 626 back in the early 80’s. His set up sucked through a sidedraft Weber and he used boost operated pre-carb (pre-turbo) water injection to allow more boost with the hi compression rotors of the day. His water injection idea came from WWII fighters as he was an avid aircraft enthusiast and pilot, even becoming friends with an ex Luftwaffe Me109 pilot on one of his trips abroad (he was sent to Germany and other places by the NZ Govt to look at alternative engine technology during the oil crisis of the 70’s).

Other than the info from my friend, I have read about Pratt & Whitney’s work with water injection, and found some good info on Rx7club by Howard Coleman and a guy ‘rx72c’. I only became interested in water injection a year and a half ago because up until then most of my experience had been with n/a engines.

So I guess if you are accusing me of copying you, then everyone with pre-turbo water injection must have copied you right? Realistically, everyones pre-turbo setups are going to be very similar anyway as there are only two ways of going about it – boost operated or elec pump. I went with what I think to be the simplest and potentially most reliable set up. It is also the cheapest setup as I’m on a tight budget.

[RICE RACING]

LOL @ the nice story, more fiction than fact ^ :lol:
Both of your "readers" off the scum site regurgitate my redundant information and generally what I have been doing for decades so by your own admission you have copied me :lol: that's o.k. you are not the first and for sure will not be the last :lol:

Free bump to this thread.

[Slides]

Thought you might have entered WTAC this year with the car running well?

Quick question, IIRC yuo were running your solenoid at something like 2000hz (much faster than the response speed of the solenoid which is ~6.5ms?? anyway) so in effect you are using it (floating partial open) like an analogue valve rather than cycling on/off to achieve your mapped flow. Do you use a flyback diode over teh solenoid, and how linear to DC% is the flow rate curve (at any fixed feed pressure)?

You still happy with the dynatek CDI box/coils?

[RICE RACING]

WTAC is a hack event with near zero return on investment anyway you cut it, so no need to waste sponsors or my money entering it, especially at the vastly inflated prices they stung entrants for this year. You only need look at the caliber of people who never come back to it from Sierra Sierra to the hobo classes in open or ghetto classes in clubsprint....... Being a real road car not run on faggot E85 I can drive my own superlap any time I feel like it and anywhere :) don't need to pay some **** for the honor OR waste thousands on tires or other consumables "racing" < LOL agains other loosers :) for a $10 plastic trophy.

I never run the solenoid at 2000 times per second.

I run a CDI system yes.

[RICE RACING]

WTAC this year



What was fucken intensely funny was seeing that GT Auto molested engine in the NEMO evo, I video'd it at EC and estimated it only had 500bhp LOL. Got flammed by some nobody **** on the internet cause the owner said it has 900HP at the wheels, then some dick head moderator on Ausrotary posts up that the engine did indeed have issues and it was dyno'd @ some dick workshop with 430rwkw LOL LOL LOL..........

Car weight is like 900kg 100kmh to 200kmh in 6.2 seconds
You do the maths, I did, even with a boat anchor (gayest aero on earth) out the back lucky if it made 500bhp at the event that I saw with my own two eyes.

That event and most in it are cunts, useless cunts.

I'd much rather go watch Pikes Peak where real engineers compete, with REAL 1000bhp cars, and real speed to match.

p.s. it's 2012 and still with 2.2lt these arse clowns cant make 1/2 the power that F1 made with 1.5lt and 30 years ago....... that scene is a joke.

[RICE RACING]

One car I did say was worth watching in real life was the Tilton interiors EVO! that thing was an animal with what I worked out as 800bhp at the engine.

Still low compared to last years efforts and they have a LONG way to go till they step it up to where the power levels should be. Honestly if we give them 10 years we might see some 1000bhp cars......... see what happens :ugh2:

I think all the real brains just are into other things mate, only the dregs do that Time Attack Rubbish :smilielol5: so there is a lag till you see repeated what was done before by other "smart" people.

I'd like to see a modern version of a Porsche 917/30

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYBtCJDQqqg

http://www.seriouswheels.com/pics-pqr/Porsche-917-1973-CanAM-Series-Winner-Porsche-917-30-1920x1440.jpg
Rear wheel drive
850kg
1500bhp!
endurance spec
250mph top speed
0-200mph in 10 seconds!
circa 1973 !

Wiki lol
See why "Modern" UNLIMITED Time Attack is FUCKED! (certified Joke)
The 917/30 was the most powerful sports car racer ever built and raced. The 5.374-litre 12 cylinder (90.0 x 70.4 mm) twin-turbocharged engine could produce 1,580 bhp (1,180 kW) in qualifying tune[citation needed], with twin turbochargers run up to full boost, 39 psi (2.7 bar), though it usually raced with around 1,100 bhp (820 kW) at 7,800 rpm to preserve the engine. Weighing 1,800 lb (820 kg), giving it a power to weight of 1967.36 bhp/tonne in qualifying tune and 1369.68 bhp/tonne in race tune. The 917/30 dominated the Can-Am series during the 1973 season. The 917/30 could go from 0-62 mph (100 km/h) in 1.9 seconds, 0-100 mph (160 km/h) in 3.9 seconds, 0-200 mph (320 km/h) in 10.9 seconds, and on to a top speed of more than 260 mph (420 km/h)[citation needed]. The high-level of performance and attendant fuel consumption of the engines, and ever increasing risk, has led to the 917/30 sometimes being cited as the car that killed Can-Am racing[citation needed]. The 917 was also the only championship winning car in Can Am not to be powered by Chevrolet.

[RICE RACING]

Just to reinforce how full of shit those NEMO/GT Auto garage cunts are .........
Time Attack crowd in general (Hype Master).

Millen Toyota Tacoma
Running more down force than the wanker EVO abortion
Real 1000bhp @ Engine (3SGTE IMSA 2.1lt engine) 745kw
100kmh to 200kmh = 3.3 seconds!!!!

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3245/2798273671_1421533d7a_z.jpg

Millen Jnr Hyundai
Again more down force, similar weight
Only 520 kw engine
30kmh to 200kmh in 6 seconds flat!






Compre proven performer to this joke below (VBOX proven sub standard power! LOL)
Remember EMO EVO needs 6.2+ seconds to do 100kmh to 200kmh. It is very low in power more like 450bhp to 500bhp @ engine range like I said in Ian luffs shit youtube site lol where cunts were spewing out HYPE 900awhp rants LOL.
^^^^^ *ALSO* engine issues code for massive blow by (cabin full of smoke, smoke pissing out of engine on last corner onto main straight!) due to detonated motor trying to run more boost LOL!!!!, all that at ~500bhp let alone 900hp at wheels BS! fucking plastic trophy wannabe's learning to tune LOL.

Time Attack can claim the goods when you see a sub 3 second 100kmh to 200kmh acceleration and over 200mph @ Eastern Creek on the highest down force you can dream up (using a prod car body shape and 1000kg run weight)........... then welcome to 30 years ago where F1 was doing it on Atari PC equipment and stock std BMW engine blocks :smilielol5:
long long long way to go till the hype catches up with engineering reality... but it keeps the kiddies and loosers and the general after market battler industry going, so I suppose its a win, thank god generation useless is so stupid, otherwise they would have worked out that these really are nothing cars in the grand scheme of things.

[RETed]

Okay, if people feel the need to make new accounts to talk shit in this thread, then I'm going to start to delete more liberally.

Sure, RICE RACING is kept on a long leash, but at least he offers technical information.
If all you're going to do is submit a reply just to crap on him, then I'm deleting it.
If you want to call his BS, submit objective facts.
If your ego can't take his...choice of words, then don't read.

Oh, and it's obvious that anyone who knows anything about racing that those race results were due to something being seriously wrong with the vehicle to be able to put up a more respectable time.
But then again...I wouldn't be surprised if RR did that just to piss of the race organizers on purpose. :D

EDIT / ADDENDUM: The user whose reply I've deleted is supposedly legit and registered initially / solely to submit the single reply. Apologies if this is the case, but it does not look good for you if that was your first post on a forum. Whatever the case, the reply was still meant as an attack on RR's credibility, and I still stand on my decision to delete the reply in the first place; it does not directly address this thread or add any additional information - reminder: this is a TECH section. Although this forum does not have a central ToU page, if you have any questions on what you should or should not be doing, I will refer you to this lin:
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-forum-etiquette.htm



-Ted

[RICE RACING]

Back on topic ......... We have got a few real men who are upgrading and fitting water injection and will be updating this thread shortly......... the only ever real way proven over the years to match those in line ~2lt 4cyl engines (the real ones not TA cars LOL) that are making near 1000bhp.

And will be proven with the real measures like in my 100kmh to 200kmh thread too ;) no hype dubious doctored BS dyno sheets :9898:

[ROT8WA]

I await the upcoming info with baited breath.

I just wanted to note from my POV I seem to have noticed that some of the workshops that seem to be really successful or "look successful" are the ones who rip people off talking shit and marketing the crap out of things to a degree. Fudging Dyno figures to make their inflated ego's more bloated than a gonad with elephantitis.

And the honest ones have a hard time getting in front...

Other info that I would love to see would be logs/data of a rotary powered vehicle that is running a water injection system on a fairly high boost level say +18psi on OZY 98 pump through a "constant" "non stop"duration of say 5-6 laps. I would love to see how well this thermodynamic system works through torturous transient track style conditions. This to me is the ultimate test of Water Injection limits.

[RICE RACING]

rice, in the near future i will try to post up some of my logs from my link in my t04z fd with wm50 (post turbo sorry). did you get the wire-in xtreme ecu or the plugin fd ecu? if the wire-in, did you use the standard vehicle speed input to the stock computer for logging purposes?

Brad.

Got Milk?

I see you had to help out HC to get his car running lol....
Anyway post up some figures of what you got from your T04Z FD set up and WM50. :001_005:

Don Mega gag factor power sooooooooon? :leaving: Got some new shit I really should post up but some pretenders may nek themselves when they see how many years behind the game they are LOL.:seeya:

:sifone:

1bar
2bar
3bar
4bar
5bar
6bar so far? :o13: :lurk5: :driving: :icon_tup:

[PSI]

I've managed to get up to 40.5psi so far, still on 98 octane pump fuel (93 octane USA) and water injection. Still running inductive ignition and $3 sparkplugs with a massive 60" plug gap with no sign of misfire. The dyno says 740rwhp at 38psi. Whether it's accurate or not at that hp level I don't know. What I do know is that 40.5psi from a 75mm turbo is a fair amount of power. Enough to trap almost 156mph on the 1/4 mile anyway. I'll be going back on the dyno soon to try another couple of ideas I have, and probably more boost. It's at the point of diminished returns now though, we're almost out of compressor and I believe the turbine is starting to choke now also. We'll be fitting a larger turbo in the off season I think. Still sticking with the Series 5 engine/intake (TII) at this point.

[RICE RACING]

I've managed to get up to 40.5psi so far, still on 98 octane pump fuel (93 octane USA) and water injection. Still running inductive ignition and $3 sparkplugs with a massive 60" plug gap with no sign of misfire. The dyno says 740rwhp at 38psi. Whether it's accurate or not at that hp level I don't know. What I do know is that 40.5psi from a 75mm turbo is a fair amount of power. Enough to trap almost 156mph on the 1/4 mile anyway. I'll be going back on the dyno soon to try another couple of ideas I have, and probably more boost. It's at the point of diminished returns now though, we're almost out of compressor and I believe the turbine is starting to choke now also. We'll be fitting a larger turbo in the off season I think. Still sticking with the Series 5 engine/intake (TII) at this point.

Good job, oh and nice mullet :302:

[Rotary Evolution]

braver than i, i've only ran up to 25psi on 50/50 meth/water/91octane but that poor 35R was already beyond its limit anyways and i wasn't up to experiment on a customer car.

i sometimes feel like just upping the jet in my car and seeing what that T70 will do before it grenades on straight water. that POS is ancient now anyways compared to current turbos.

[PSI]

Thanks. It's not a mullet it's a mudflap.

[RICE RACING]

braver than i, i've only ran up to 25psi on 50/50 meth/water/91octane but that poor 35R was already beyond its limit anyways and i wasn't up to experiment on a customer car.

i sometimes feel like just upping the jet in my car and seeing what that T70 will do before it grenades on straight water. that POS is ancient now anyways compared to current turbos.

If you need some help just ask, no point re inventing the wheel or getting your donk BDC'd :lol:

[Rotary Evolution]

well, really the only setups i've thrown together that have turbos efficient beyond 22-25psi are running ethanol in the tank. i simply haven't spent much time trying to push pump gas when there's better alternatives.

[RICE RACING]

well, really the only setups i've thrown together that have turbos efficient beyond 22-25psi are running ethanol in the tank. i simply haven't spent much time trying to push pump gas when there's better alternatives.

That is where me and mud flap will disagree with you :biggthumpup:

what is 'better' is just in one mans eye's v's another, but if you need help it is on offer, thus this thread.

I say there is NOTHING better than a real car :cheers2: that can be driven anywhere, anytime, and use the most common fuel around :tongue1: and make more power than people can on Roo16 lol or methanol in some cases lol, that is what I call 'better way'

[Rotary Evolution]

what about failsafes? if you lose the water you'll be walking.

[RICE RACING]

what about failsafes? if you lose the water you'll be walking.

same argument applies to one fuel injector on a rotor ;)
on my system never ever had a system fail in over 20 years and over 1000 systems supplied :)
it is many times more reliable than any other "failure enducing' sub system that all engines rely on.
so that while a concern is a non issue............. unless of course you are taking advice on system set up from bdc or hc or the like lol

[TitaniumTT]

Well... according to bdc his meth powered non intercooled system was far better at removing heat from his charge air than my ducted tighter than a frogs asshole VMIC setup.... regardless fo the number of e6k screen shits he put up.... he still couldn't figure out the math... even when explained to him repeatedly.... and was more reliable than my intercooler.... still trying to wrap my head arounsd that one...

[RICE RACING]

Well... according to bdc his meth powered non intercooled system was far better at removing heat from his charge air than my ducted tighter than a frogs asshole VMIC setup.... regardless fo the number of e6k screen shits he put up.... he still couldn't figure out the math... even when explained to him repeatedly.... and was more reliable than my intercooler.... still trying to wrap my head arounsd that one...

I am having a ccccuuuuuunnnnntttt of a day at work and you made me laugh :lol:

E6GAY LOL

Love those screen shots :drool5:

[indio84]

no one else using waterinj? with results?

hey Rice do you have any experience with the race logic performance box? I was looking into buying one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACELOGIC-PERFORMANCE-BOX-PB02-PACKAGE-SD-CARD-MAINS-POWER-SUPPLY-USB-CABLE-/170976594216?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27ceffc928

[indio84]

or maybe this one to gather at least a little bit of info.

http://www.gtechpro.com/ss_fanatic.html

[RICE RACING]

no one else using waterinj? with results?

hey Rice do you have any experience with the race logic performance box? I was looking into buying one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACELOGIC-PERFORMANCE-BOX-PB02-PACKAGE-SD-CARD-MAINS-POWER-SUPPLY-USB-CABLE-/170976594216?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27ceffc928

I am Mr RACELOGIC ;)

What would you like to know?

BUY IT! and ask questions later, it will be the best investment you make ;) if you want to measure the performance of your car there is nothing better.

[RICE RACING]

Hey mudflap, is your BW S475 just one of the $650 ghetto versions? .......... fuck they are good for the price! been using a few lately.

[RICE RACING]

Also mudflap, no need for you to guess restrictions, BW have a fantastic tool (no ghetto spec BW's included though! you need to shell out and buy a race turbocharger version) to do all the testing you need, just need to feed it with some right info from basic testing etc.
This is a fully worked over 1120bhp 13B turbo set up I have done, for you to look over ;) YES IT WORKS IN REALITY.
Buy yourself a turbine speed sensor and a few pressure sensors and map this stuff, its not too hard to do :)
Nothing worse than guessing :)

Here is the link > http://www.turbodriven.com/performanceturbos/matchbot/index.html#version=1.2&displacement=2.616&CID=159.62832&altitude=0&baro=14.706&aat=75&turboconfig=1&compressor=110s75&pt1_rpm=3000&pt1_ve=85&pt1_boost=3&pt1_ie=85&pt1_filres=0.08&pt1_ipd=0.2&pt1_mbp=0.5&pt1_ce=60&pt1_te=90&pt1_egt=1900&pt1_ter=1.14&pt1_pw=40.11&pt1_bsfc=0.55&pt1_afr=11&pt1_wts=300&pt1_wd=110&pt1_wd2=110&pt1_wrsin=69033&pt2_rpm=4000&pt2_ve=100&pt2_boost=8&pt2_ie=85&pt2_filres=0.1&pt2_ipd=0.2&pt2_mbp=0.5&pt2_ce=65&pt2_te=88&pt2_egt=1900&pt2_ter=1.27&pt2_pw=26.67&pt2_bsfc=0.6&pt2_afr=11&pt2_wts=320&pt2_wd=110&pt2_wd2=110&pt2_wrsin=73635&pt3_rpm=5000&pt3_ve=110&pt3_boost=15&pt3_ie=85&pt3_filres=0.12&pt3_ipd=0.3&pt3_mbp=1.5&pt3_ce=68&pt3_te=85&pt3_egt=1900&pt3_ter=1.49&pt3_pw=22.56&pt3_bsfc=0.6&pt3_afr=10.5&pt3_wts=340&pt3_wd=110&pt3_wd2=110&pt3_wrsin=78238&pt4_rpm=6000&pt4_ve=110&pt4_boost=45&pt4_ie=85&pt4_filres=0.15&pt4_ipd=0.4&pt4_mbp=2&pt4_ce=68&pt4_te=85&pt4_egt=1900&pt4_ter=2.6&pt4_pw=27.56&pt4_bsfc=0.62&pt4_afr=10.5&pt4_wts=368&pt4_wd=110&pt4_wd2=110&pt4_wrsin=84681&pt5_rpm=7000&pt5_ve=105&pt5_boost=50&pt5_ie=85&pt5_filres=0.18&pt5_ipd=0.5&pt5_mbp=2.5&pt5_ce=68&pt5_te=85&pt5_egt=1900&pt5_ter=2.92&pt5_pw=29.76&pt5_bsfc=0.62&pt5_afr=10.5&pt5_wts=608&pt5_wd=110&pt5_wd2=110&pt5_wrsin=92044&pt6_rpm=9000&pt6_ve=100&pt6_boost=50&pt6_ie=85&pt6_filres=0.2&pt6_ipd=0.6&pt6_mbp=3&pt6_ce=68&pt6_te=85&pt6_egt=1900&pt6_ter=3.22&pt6_pw=34.73&pt6_bsfc=0.62&pt6_afr=10.5&pt6_wts=600&pt6_wd=110&pt6_wd2=110&pt6_wrsin=92044&

[PSI]

Yes just the basic S475 but we modified the compressor cover for a bit more flow. You can't beat them for the price. Ours has had a real hiding and yet we have not had a single problem. And the thrust still feels as good as new. Even when street/circuit driving the lag is less than you would expect from a turbo that size and transient response is surprisingly good. It easily makes 25psi+ on the 2 step but it's no use to us as we get a better 60ft by leaving the line at 15psi or less - hard when the gate spring is 20psi.

Another reason why they are such good value for dollar - the wheels are balanced individually and parts are cheap, so they can be easily rebuilt at home.

The matchbot is flash but we've run out of aux in's for logging so don't have enough real data to make much use of it. Fuel press and turbine press have to take turns on the same channel haha. It might be time to change from the G4RX to an Extreme.

[RICE RACING]

I like them too, took me too many years of being 'raped' by Garrett to finally wake up. :coolgleamA:

[RICE RACING]

DILDO CANNON

http://imageshack.us/a/img689/1255/img5119crazygayjunior.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img35/9964/img5117crazygayjunior.jpg

[Rotary Evolution]

Yes just the basic S475 but we modified the compressor cover for a bit more flow. You can't beat them for the price. Ours has had a real hiding and yet we have not had a single problem. And the thrust still feels as good as new. Even when street/circuit driving the lag is less than you would expect from a turbo that size and transient response is surprisingly good. It easily makes 25psi+ on the 2 step but it's no use to us as we get a better 60ft by leaving the line at 15psi or less - hard when the gate spring is 20psi.

Another reason why they are such good value for dollar - the wheels are balanced individually and parts are cheap, so they can be easily rebuilt at home.

The matchbot is flash but we've run out of aux in's for logging so don't have enough real data to make much use of it. Fuel press and turbine press have to take turns on the same channel haha. It might be time to change from the G4RX to an Extreme.

when i first laid hands on the S475 years ago i couldn't believe the amount of turbo you got per dollar. it is quite responsive for that huge T6 frame on an engine that barely matches it in size.

it won't ever be as responsive as some of the mid frame BB turbos but the BB market is still anal about selling you all new shit when the turbos go south. fuck Garrett, the company you love to hate.. love the response, hate the price tags when the turbos do wind up needing to go into the shop. rather surprised no one has offered rebuild kits for them yet, regardless that ceramic ball bearings are not exactly super hard to find now. anyone who can mill a bore could probably find an oversize bearing set to work.

turbos aren't rocket science, though the manufacturers try to convince you that it is. 2 fan blades, 2 bearings, thrust bearing, 2 seals and balancing to handle the 120k+ RPMs they spin up to.

[RICE RACING]

I have been everywhere with turbo's dealing with one idiot here who was manufacturing his own BB centers (lost count of how many failed!) in the end the old shit box plain bearings suspended by oil is all you need, and the cunts can be rebuilt by anyone and they are for 'like size' really no different anyway.

Got people who run these on Diesel tractor pullers at near 80psi boost! not dreamers like on the internets but cunts who know what a turbo speed sensor is, people make their own Titanium compressor wheels and upgraded thrust bearings etc etc.

Garrett, and the dreamers! can all go lick my dildo cannon !@ massive rip off and for really no tangilbe benefit except to their share holders LOL.

[ninesixtwo]

http://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/race-prep-75/68379-katech-v4-miata-mr-1500tmagazineimages033_zps7fed9922-jpg?dateline=1361583399

1.5l 4 cylinder, 500hp at 1.7bar and virtually no lag above 4000RPM with redline of 10200RPM. The turbo they use? Garrett journal bearing turbo from the Cosworth V6 F1 engine, circa 1986. Just shows you don't need billet wheels, dual ceramic ball bearings, pixie dust or any other magic... just proper wheel sizing, proper manifold, and proper engine management (that engine runs life racing ECU with DBW).

[Mitchocalypse]

1.5l 4 cylinder, 500hp at 1.7bar and virtually no lag above 4000RPM with redline of 10200RPM. The turbo they use? Garrett journal bearing turbo from the Cosworth V6 F1 engine, circa 1986. Just shows you don't need billet wheels, dual ceramic ball bearings, pixie dust or any other magic... just proper wheel sizing, proper manifold, and proper engine management (that engine runs life racing ECU with DBW).

Says the guy with a 3000 dollar turbo :p

Also, i noticed you're in calgary..
this forum seems to be three quarters south-eastern states and a quarter alberta. And Rice.

[RICE RACING]

double post cuuuuuuuuuuuunts

[RICE RACING]

They are a really good turbo.
This power in a full weight FD (1300kg as run) and stock gearbox (true road car) does
9.9's @ 146mph on ~ 29psi boost. (as per engine dyno test) 770bhp @ 8500rpm and well over 20psi boost at 4500rpm!

VV6VCTwsJpA

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/2395/img5146crazygayjunior.jpg

[Mitchocalypse]

Didn't know which thread to post this in but this seems like a good fit.

RICE, a while ago I found you post this and i saved it because I saw the obvious value in it:

The absolute ideal is gasoline main fuel, water/methanol in 50/50 ratio and injected at 40% to 25% of main fuel flow *BY MASS!!!*, it will make power on all set ups, be consistent, not rape any parts be it in your injection system or your engine.

Is this true for ALL engines, (boosted / N/A .. carb'd?).

And the 25% - 40% value.. How did you come up with that? Experimentally or is there some math behind it?

[RICE RACING]

Didn't know which thread to post this in but this seems like a good fit.

RICE, a while ago I found you post this and i saved it because I saw the obvious value in it:



Is this true for ALL engines, (boosted / N/A .. carb'd?).

And the 25% - 40% value.. How did you come up with that? Experimentally or is there some math behind it?

Firstly I am no Oracle, or self professed guru on the topic ;) my 'knowledge' comes from a balance of 20 years readings/research on the subject (pre internet !), every 'paper' published, some not, face to face interviews with smarter people than me, non academic research findings from true pioneers (which I give credit too in my Aquamist thread) and a host of other sources that are not note worthy to mention on their own but all contribute.

Finally I then prove all of this myself before I state it as Fact V's Fiction :smilielol5:

That above recommendation you kept is my own experience that backs up my own research and that of others in this field for forced induction set up. NA I can not comment, in all of my years I have done little on that as 1) it never interested me 2) NA is gay! :o21:

The only caveat I will say in regards to what I have given and you have saved, like I say in my Aquamist 'rant' lol I only give out information that is a couple of years behind what I currently do, I am not a free service anymore like I used to be, as I found everyone who currently does this in rotary world ALL go off my old information, so I learned to keep my own IP to myself, until it is redundant to me and then I freely give that other stuff out. Needless to say my 'old' information to some people is all they need to know to be totally amazed at how good water injection is on a forced induction engine.

[RICE RACING]

bumpski

[speedjunkie]

I don't have any proof or anything but I've been running about 24psi on 91/93 pump gas with water injection (washer fluid actually) as a safety net, but I've been told I should still turn the boost down some lol.

[PSI]

Still only on 40psi boost but now with a larger BW turbo. As of last nights dyno session the car now has 640kw/858hp at the wheels vs the 740hp previously with the smaller turbo. Best trap speed with the smaller turbo was 158mph, 2400lb car. H pattern gearbox, 26x8 tyre, leaf sprung rear end.

I would have run up to 45psi on the dyno (map sensor limit) but the wastegate spring will only allow 40.5psi (280kpa). If the engine is still going when the season finishes I'll probably change w/g springs and see what it makes on 45psi, time permitting. I'm not holding out too much hope though, the engines done almost 2 seasons racing plus 2 powercruise events, dirt drags, and whatever else. I'm glad I didn't switch to E85 yet, pump petrol is starting to get real interesting now!

[RICE RACING]

Still only on 40psi boost but now with a larger BW turbo. As of last nights dyno session the car now has 640kw/858hp at the wheels vs the 740hp previously with the smaller turbo. Best trap speed with the smaller turbo was 158mph, 2400lb car. H pattern gearbox, 26x8 tyre, leaf sprung rear end.

I would have run up to 45psi on the dyno (map sensor limit) but the wastegate spring will only allow 40.5psi (280kpa). If the engine is still going when the season finishes I'll probably change w/g springs and see what it makes on 45psi, time permitting. I'm not holding out too much hope though, the engines done almost 2 seasons racing plus 2 powercruise events, dirt drags, and whatever else. I'm glad I didn't switch to E85 yet, pump petrol is starting to get real interesting now!

Good stuff, and YES I have always wondered why the fuck people accept the total head fuck of E85 when I proved (and you are now) water injection over so many years.................. beyond me!

Are you still using your IGN-1A coils? I have been given some special ones to test by a well known high performance manufacturer, and in the interests of science I may just use them myself.

Which BW did you move up to?

Peter

[Fendamonky]

Still only on 40psi boost but now with a larger BW turbo. As of last nights dyno session the car now has 640kw/858hp at the wheels vs the 740hp previously with the smaller turbo. Best trap speed with the smaller turbo was 158mph, 2400lb car. H pattern gearbox, 26x8 tyre, leaf sprung rear end.

I would have run up to 45psi on the dyno (map sensor limit) but the wastegate spring will only allow 40.5psi (280kpa). If the engine is still going when the season finishes I'll probably change w/g springs and see what it makes on 45psi, time permitting. I'm not holding out too much hope though, the engines done almost 2 seasons racing plus 2 powercruise events, dirt drags, and whatever else. I'm glad I didn't switch to E85 yet, pump petrol is starting to get real interesting now!

THIS is fucking insane!! :patriot:

[TitaniumTT]

Still only on 40psi boost but now with a larger BW turbo. As of last nights dyno session the car now has 640kw/858hp at the wheels vs the 740hp previously with the smaller turbo. Best trap speed with the smaller turbo was 158mph, 2400lb car. H pattern gearbox, 26x8 tyre, leaf sprung rear end.

I would have run up to 45psi on the dyno (map sensor limit) but the wastegate spring will only allow 40.5psi (280kpa). If the engine is still going when the season finishes I'll probably change w/g springs and see what it makes on 45psi, time permitting. I'm not holding out too much hope though, the engines done almost 2 seasons racing plus 2 powercruise events, dirt drags, and whatever else. I'm glad I didn't switch to E85 yet, pump petrol is starting to get real interesting now!

That is just impressive as all get out. :willy_nilly: What ECU are you running and what size BW?

Good stuff, and YES I have always wondered why the fuck people accept the total head fuck of E85 when I proved (and you are now) water injection over so many years.................. beyond me!

But but but.... bdc?

Are you still using your IGN-1A coils? I have been given some special ones to test by a well known high performance manufacturer, and in the interests of science I may just use them myself.

Oh really? I FINALLY have in my possession the Bosch Motorsports Coils (I've actually been using them for a number of years now) along with the IGN-1A coils (running my RX8) and a set of factory D585 LS2 coils (thanks Glenn) Whenever the FC does make it onto the dyno after I get her tuned to about 12-14ish PSI I'm going to swap coils, adjust dwell and make a pull. Whichever coil makes the most power, is the setup that will stay on the car. I think it'll be between the IGN and the D585, and I have a feeling it will be the D585, although the IGN was designed around a 2-stroke Merc outboard soooooo, it should be interesting :)

[PSI]

Same BW turbo as yours rice, but with a machined out 75mm cover and cast 80mm wheel, since we've got no room for the larger diam "race" cover (stock John Deere cover).

The IGN-1A's work well but I'm testing an ICE ignition again, out of curiosity.

Link G4RX ecu.

The car trapped 161mph today, 3mph more than it ever has. There will be more to come once we get a handle on the bigger turbo's power deliver characteristics + creep up on the tune/boost. It's really struggling off the line and in the first half of the track now.

[RICE RACING]

Give it some jandle, fuck yeah!

[Mazdabater]

Haha fuck he is never gonna live that line down! What a race

The Jandal Reference:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAFRS5r2g8E

[neit_jnf]

so what do you recommend for safe max power goal for an unopened stock FD motor with 3pc apex seals????

my personal goal is whatever I can get with a 1.15 ar p-trim with a gtx35 compressor at ~28psi... too much?

[Slides]

Oi Rice,

If you were to use an oil return scavenge pump to allow low mounting of a large turbo like one of those s400s (like really low touching undertray in front/besides engine), would there be enough room in the engine bay to high mount a s300 turbo pointing backwards tight next to the block, feeding (in addition to "primary" wastegates) into one of those s400 mounted low in the bay at the front with dump running under the exhaust manifold/smaller turbo? Would be nice to run 36psi from, what under 4000rpm to 9000rpm, I'm guessing due to the wider peak boost range you would want to run 2 stage pre turbo injection with a 50% flow rated secondary injector to come in before peak torque?

[PSI]

Putting the jandal down


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/E26UVP0ftIc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[RICE RACING]

Oi Rice,

If you were to use an oil return scavenge pump to allow low mounting of a large turbo like one of those s400s (like really low touching undertray in front/besides engine), would there be enough room in the engine bay to high mount a s300 turbo pointing backwards tight next to the block, feeding (in addition to "primary" wastegates) into one of those s400 mounted low in the bay at the front with dump running under the exhaust manifold/smaller turbo? Would be nice to run 36psi from, what under 4000rpm to 9000rpm, I'm guessing due to the wider peak boost range you would want to run 2 stage pre turbo injection with a 50% flow rated secondary injector to come in before peak torque?



apart from all the obvious 'issues' its a great idea, I've done allot with Diesle's in truck racing (2 stage) and pullers running 3 stages, water injected.

not sure how useable it is though? I personally have found there is already too much power from 4000 to 5000rpm and it needs to be 'dampened' down to make the car driveable......... nothing worse than too much torque @ from corner apex, only need to look at a modern 2014 F1 car to see what I'm talking about!

[PSI]

310kpa or 44.9psi!! (only in the top of 3rd and 4th gears tho, I'll fill in the boost everywhere else next season, plus more total if needed) 162.5mph to date.

The engine still seems happy too - 2 drag seasons, 2 powercruises, 1 dirt drags, and some street use later. Hopefully it does a 3rd drag season.

Surprisingly enough the engine appears to be several times more reliable than the methanol 13B's we race against. Trap speed is equal to the methanol 28x9 tyred cars too (this with our smaller tyre and heavier car), and there is still more power in the engine yet I'm sure.

In retrospect it's quite amazing how much reliable power such a low spec basic engine build running on petrol can produce. Only with WI of course, it wouldn't even get close otherwise. Frank Walker of Pratt and Whitney resoundingly proved this all those years ago.

Still running inductive ignition too. It's cheap and reliable.