Digi Dash Mount Fab

[vex]

So while I wait for some parts to get here I'm wanting to get the backplate/mount for the digidash taken care of. I know individuals have done it before and would like to see some pictures if you're willing to post them.

My plan is to use the stock dash unit to get an outline and to integrate turn signals (2 LED's), fuel gauge, and 3 buttons (2 push buttons for operation with the digidash and 1 push button for operation with the O2 calibration), and 1 LED for O2 Calibration.

Any thoughts or suggestions; feel free to post.

[tweiss3]

Just grab a piece of steel or aluminum and start cutting, then spray it black

[vex]

Just grab a piece of steel or aluminum and start cutting, then spray it black

I'm thinking a little more upper class than that. Spray adhesive, foam, and some marine vinyl with some better cut outs for the blinkers and buttons. I'm looking for more physical dimensions, and pitfalls to watch out for.

[tweiss3]

lol, personally, i'd grab the dash piece, trace it to paper, get its dimensions, toss it in CAD, fiddle with the layout tillyou like it, cut it out based on the CAD template, then maybe suede, or leather wrap it, even could do a real CF fabric wrap.

[2gslse]

I haven't seen a FC cluster for ages but why not just gut the stocker of everything useless and go from that it will fit perfectly and have mounts already in place

[TitaniumTT]

Gutting the stocker really isn't an option becuasde of the way the back is, and the way the plexi curves. What I did was start with a piece of AL cut out to mirror the back of the dash. Then added a fe inches to it on the bottom. Without this, when the "Hood" goes on, you'll be able to see straight through the to plastic dash. Same goes with the sides. I've built a 1/2 dozen or so of these for various projects. Maybe you should just get your ass to Deals T, check mine out. You know you want to.

[vex]

I do, but I have the car show to deal with as well as get my car up and running (which includes getting this dash mounted and situated right.

I think I know how I'm going to do it, but I'd like to see your setup if you wouldn't mind.

[TitaniumTT]

NO!!!!!!! AAHAHAAAHAHAHAAHAHHAAA

I'll try to dig up some pics.... see what I got in hiding....

T, what was that place for the Deutsch connectors that you posted up? Doing price comparision right now for this Landi piece of poo

[2gslse]

Oh... OK I figured it would be a good starting point

[vex]

https://www.wirecare.com/

[TitaniumTT]

https://www.wirecare.com/

Thanks!

Oh... OK I figured it would be a good starting point

It is, for an outline for the backplate it's perfect. Everything else needs to be built up though to meet with the cluster surround

[vex]

Here's the preliminary design of the digi dash. I still have a few things to work out (namely proper sizing of the front dash, holes for the buttons, LED's, and Fuel Gauge).
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9789&d=1299164665

Thoughts?

[TitaniumTT]

I think you're going to want it forward of the dash becusae it needs to be angled.

Still looking for pics

[TitaniumTT]

Yeah, they're not on this machine.... gonna have to dig up the OLD one and see if they're there or not.

[vex]

How much of an angle (is it less than 30 degrees)--or should I attempt to mimic the stock angle? I would like to have the digital dash (IQ3) flush mounted/recessed to the front dash so that the vinyl cover has an easy transition to the IQ3. This means how I design the mounting tabs will dictate the angle of the dash.

[tweiss3]

I'm not a fan of vinyl. I would use a real CF fabric, then clear coat. But that's just me. I do like how it looks so far.

[vex]

I'm not a fan of vinyl. I would use a real CF fabric, then clear coat. But that's just me. I do like how it looks so far.

It's a thought, but I prefer a softer surface than to a hard plastic. If I could afford it I would throw on some real black leather, but with the strives marine vinyl has made in the past few years it's a tough fabric to beat.

http://www.onlinefabricstore.net/marine-upholstery/marine-vinyl/black-vinyl-.htm

Scratch resistant, flame retardant, mildew resistant, etc, etc, etc, all for under $20.00 for 1yard of it.


Or hell Faux Leather for even cheaper:
http://www.onlinefabricstore.net/vinyl-fabric/color-vinyl-fabric/black-vinyl-fabric-.htm

[vex]

after reinspecting the stock mounting of the dash unit I think my angle concerns will be remedied via the stock mounting system: The mounting tabs on the dash are not angled any which indicates that the mounting angle is at the mounting location. I will know more precisely this weekend.

[TitaniumTT]

The dashes I built used the stock mounting tabs built into the back of the dash. I used this with the Autometer replacement gauges and the angle was slightly less than desirable. Changed it out with the digital dash. Lemme get these turbo's sorted out and in the mail and I'll pull it and snatch some pics for ya

[vex]

Thanks I appreciate it. I think I may have made this overly complicated :lol:

But what I have in my mind is going to be really nice, I even think I have an idea on how to angle it more. If you could get me a rough angle that would work well too.

[chibikougan]

I like what your doing there. If you mount the LEDs in plexi be sure to torch the edges and back so all the light is forced through the Face. Just Torch enough to fog it not melt it. It should light up your turn signal arrows you have pictured really nicely and all you have to do is cut a cube of plexi and mount it to the back of the cutout. Mount LED inside the cube and you are good to go. If you don't want to see the LED you can mount it to the bottom of the cube so that it is a little lower then the arrow cutout so it should just make for a nice bright clean arrow.

[tweiss3]

Very nice looking. Continue.

What are u using, autocad? solidworks?

[vex]

I like what your doing there. If you mount the LEDs in plexi be sure to torch the edges and back so all the light is forced through the Face. Just Torch enough to fog it not melt it. It should light up your turn signal arrows you have pictured really nicely and all you have to do is cut a cube of plexi and mount it to the back of the cutout. Mount LED inside the cube and you are good to go.I'm planning on using the stock plastic for the turn indicators. They should be able to be kept in place by either glue (I don't like that thought) or the compression of the faux leather.

Very nice looking. Continue.

What are u using, autocad? solidworks?

Using Autodesk Inventor. If I could figure out how to use the iMate feature in the program I'd throw in the rivets too.

[My5ABaby]

I would suggest sanding a piece of plexiglass where you want the light to shine for the turn signal indicators. Any smooth surface of the plexiglass will not display the light worth a damn.

[chibikougan]

I would suggest sanding a piece of plexiglass where you want the light to shine for the turn signal indicators. Any smooth surface of the plexiglass will not display the light worth a damn.

That is the point of torching the other sides of the plexi. They catch the light to be displayed out of the clean face.

[vex]

I would suggest sanding a piece of plexiglass where you want the light to shine for the turn signal indicators. Any smooth surface of the plexiglass will not display the light worth a damn.

I'm planning on using the stock pieces (still debating on if I want to use LED's or the stock light bulbs), to which I don't remember specifically if they are already clouded or not.

[vex]

This seems like a little much to me:
https://cornerbalance.wordpress.com/2009/10/03/adams-project-z33-racepak-dash-installed/
http://cornerbalance.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/newclusterinstalled2.jpg
http://cornerbalance.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/newclusterinstalled1.jpg

Reminds me of someone's head with large ears.

[TitaniumTT]

Thanks I appreciate it. I think I may have made this overly complicated :lol:

But what I have in my mind is going to be really nice, I even think I have an idea on how to angle it more. If you could get me a rough angle that would work well too.

Demanding aren't you!

I like what your doing there. If you mount the LEDs in plexi be sure to torch the edges and back so all the light is forced through the Face. Just Torch enough to fog it not melt it. It should light up your turn signal arrows you have pictured really nicely and all you have to do is cut a cube of plexi and mount it to the back of the cutout. Mount LED inside the cube and you are good to go. If you don't want to see the LED you can mount it to the bottom of the cube so that it is a little lower then the arrow cutout so it should just make for a nice bright clean arrow.

Way too complicated, and not so useful either as there are other warning indicators that need to be there as well.... T are you still using your idiot light cluster piece of poo in the center of the dash?

This seems like a little much to me:
https://cornerbalance.wordpress.com/2009/10/03/adams-project-z33-racepak-dash-installed/
http://cornerbalance.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/newclusterinstalled2.jpg
http://cornerbalance.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/newclusterinstalled1.jpg

Reminds me of someone's head with large ears.

Yeah, it's called MICKEY FUCKING MOUSE!!!! :rofl:



Here's what I've got... I'll pull the dash later as I'll be working that area anyway... parts from crutchfield came in, now all I need is a fucking semi-working wiper switch :banghead:

The center dash is ONLY for the dash. The fuel, volt, and Boost gauges are mounted in the center idiot light piece of poo section.

I've got 3 LED's on EACH side. Each side has one of each, green, yellow, blue. Green LED's represent the turn signals, one on each side. Blue LED's represent represent High Beams on the left, low washer on the right. Orange LED's represent E-brake on the left , Low Fuel on the right. Just LED's, no fancy wierd looking fuax leather torched plexi :p

[Sch1Tz0]

Demanding aren't you!

Yeah, it's called MICKEY FUCKING MOUSE!!!! :rofl:

Damn For a minute I thought people had met my ex-wife.....

[TitaniumTT]

Yeah, sorry there T, I just went outside and found out there's no propane left, and it's like 20*..... so yeah, sorry, gonna have to wait a day on those pics... too fucking cold. My balls are shriveling up just thinking about it :rofl:

[vex]

It's all good. The Faux leather is for the mold over foam B. The turn signal cut out is modeled from the stock green covers. I'm open to alternate suggestions in this matter, though I do not like the thought of just having single LED's for indicators. And yes, I'm still using the center warning cluster.

Look what I found:
http://www.signal-construct.de/images/stories/pdf/fpi/5%20und%206%20mm%20Kunststoffgehaeuse.pdf

Those should make things easier. Just have to find a place that sells 'em.

[chibikougan]

Nice! Those will make things much simpler.

[vex]

But I can't find anyone who sells 'em. :/

[vex]

So this might be a silly question: Will I still need to deal with the "Shift Up" light from the stock dash, or will it be disabled when I switch to the standalone? My gut says it will be disabled, but I'd rather make sure than guess (and I'm feeling kind of lazy).

[tweiss3]

Unless you create an output from the standalone to be a shift up light, its not going to exist. In fact, that must be an S4 thing, cause my S5 doesn't have one that i know of, just the buzzer

[vex]

unless I'm much mistaken the Digi dash will have shift and warning lights built in and used by the ECU automatically. I'm just concerned that I may have a live wire back there causing havoc whenever I get into the higher RPM band.

[tweiss3]

why would you have a loose wire? Aren't you rebuilding the harness? If you have to, tape it off.

[vex]

I think we're missing each other here. There's a plethora of wires coming into the stock dash. Among which include the Brights indication, Blinkers, and the Shift up light. Rather than remove the entire dash unit I was planning on just pulling the wires that I need (blinkers and brights indication). My question however is does the stock setup pull the voltage for the shift up from the stock ECU or is it pulling it from a secondary computer?

[tweiss3]

ooooooohhhh, i thought you were doing a TTT and pulling the whole harness. let me grab the wiring diagram here in a minute and check it out for you

[tweiss3]

what year is yours?

[vex]

S4:86-87.5

[tweiss3]

On the 88 wire diagram i see, its just looped in with the speed sensor/tack

[vex]

Okay, cool.

I've been thinking of the lenses and it might be pretty cool to use a light bar or elongated LED's if I can't source a proper arrow lens (I sent out a few emails, waiting to hear back). Thoughts?

I'm trying to avoid the standard circular LED's.

[tweiss3]

i've got nothin for ya, sorry

[chibikougan]

I am searching us suppliers at the moment but they all have millions of LEDs

Might try these guys http://www.kingbright-europe.de/index_fr.htm

^^ These guys have a Dot matrix you could light in an arrow in any color for that race look..

[chibikougan]

Got em here is you arrow leds.

http://www.signal-construct.de/index.php/en/led-signal-and-infolamps.html

Another

http://www.conrad.com/LED-indicator-lamps-Symbols-Signal-contruct.htm?websale7=conrad-int&ci=SHOP_AREA_17318_0233517

These guys are in the US and can get Signal-Construct stuff.

http://www.alliedelec.com/

[vex]

Got em here is you arrow leds.

http://www.signal-construct.de/index.php/en/led-signal-and-infolamps.html
That's the site I pulled the PDF from. I've emailed them, but no response yet.

Another

http://www.conrad.com/LED-indicator-lamps-Symbols-Signal-contruct.htm?websale7=conrad-int&ci=SHOP_AREA_17318_0233517

Thanks. Now to see if they'll accept international orders... It looks like they don't ship to the USA.

[chibikougan]

He says USA and Canada but it says because of high insurance costs. So maybe he will since you will be ordering such few LEDs. If not get a hold of http://www.alliedelec.com/ they are in the US and seem to be able to get Signal-Construct products.

[vex]

I may end up going with these to make my life easier:
http://www.kingbrightusa.com/category.asp?catalog_name=LED&category_name=KCQuad-Level+Rectangular&Page=1

I'd prefer
http://www.ledtronics.com/Products/ProductsDetails.aspx?WP=435

but with the minimum orders that makes it harder to deal with.

[TitaniumTT]

Or .... OR... just throwing this out here... go to radio shack and get some normal fricking LED's and be done with it..... just a suggestion :rofl:

[vex]

Or .... OR... just throwing this out here... go to radio shack and get some normal fricking LED's and be done with it..... just a suggestion :rofl:

I don't want regular LEDs for blinkers (too small, etc, etc, etc). For Brights indication and WBO2 indication will do. I'm actually going to hit up Radio Shack tomorrow and see what they have.

[vex]

Well, I bought some regular old LED's, but I'm not going simple ;)

But this is a handy tool for people deciding to wire up their own LED's

http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

Remember: Anode (connect +) is the long lead from the LED, while the cathode (connect -) is the short.

[vex]

I found what I'm going to replace the Innovate push-button and LED with:
http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/main/ele-72.jpg (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10980/ele-728/Red_Illuminated_Bulgin_Style_Momentary_Vandal_Swit ch_-_16mm_-_Black_Housing_-_Ring_Illumination.html)

I'm also toying withe the idea that I will replace the IQ3 dash buttons with these similar type buttons:
http://www.frozencpu.com/images/products/main/ele-70.jpg

Thoughts?

(I'll be working on modeling the on the dash shortly)

[TitaniumTT]

What's the OD of them?

[vex]

The OD mounting spec is 16mm, with the bezel it comes to just shy of 18mm

[TitaniumTT]

Kinda big to put on the dash, no?

[vex]

They're a bit bigger than I would like; yes. But they seem to fit without issue on the dash. I'll post up a work in progress which shows the mounting holes:

[TitaniumTT]

Whats the space for the one gauge it looks like you've got on the outside?

[vex]

Here's what the Dash looks like with those buttons. I don't know how to simulate leather wrapping on it, but you get a pretty good idea of what's going on anyways.

[vex]

Whats the space for the one gauge it looks like you've got on the outside?
Are you talking about the hole on the left side? If so it's the Fuel level gauge.

[tweiss3]

I really like

[TitaniumTT]

Are you talking about the hole on the left side? If so it's the Fuel level gauge.

Yup, that's the one I'm talking about. What are you using for a gauge?

[vex]

I really like
I'm actually toying with the idea of selling 'em if I can find a company that does both water jetting and sheet metal bending.
Yup, that's the one I'm talking about. What are you using for a gauge?

I'm planning on using this one:
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/vdo-301107_w.jpg
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-301107/?rtype=10

I'd like to get a stainless steel type gauge as I think that would accent the black fabric/leather overlay better, but that's cheap, the right ohm rating, and will probably work just fine.

[tweiss3]

if that floats your boat. I walked down the gauge asile at summit last friday, and didn't really like that one in person.

[vex]

if that floats your boat. I walked down the gauge asile at summit last friday, and didn't really like that one in person.

There's not a whole lot of fuel level gauges that meet the proper requirements of our senders. In fact my only choice is this one:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Gauges-Accessories/Section/Gauges-Individual/Part-Type/Gauges-Analog/Sender-Ohm-Range/90-ohms-empty-0-ohms-full/?Ns=Rank|Asc

[TitaniumTT]

Fuck that noise. BELIEVE me as I've been down this rd a few times. Keep the stock sender (which that gauge won't work with) and get one of the programmable Autometer gauges.... TRUST me on this one. Aftermkt senders are such junk.

[vex]

Found some more fuel level gauges:
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_ind.asp?Type=Fuel_Level&Series=C2&PN=ATM-7114
I really like these gauges, but they don't sell the fuel gauge alone:
http://www.egauges.com/images/Classic/Large_d/MA01BLF.jpg

Adjustable fuel gauge huh?... I suppose I should to eliminate more head aches down the road.

[vex]

I'm taking recommendations for fuel level gauge. The unicorn I'm looking for would have a stainless steel bevel with a black or stainless face and work with the stock sending unit (that means adjustable Ohm setting).

[TitaniumTT]

I told you, how many different ways can I say it? Pretty sure they have one with the SS bezel as well, if not look at Livorsi Marine

AUTOMETER
U
T
O
M
E
T
E
R

[vex]

I told you, how many different ways can I say it? Pretty sure they have one with the SS bezel as well, if not look at Livorsi Marine

AUTOMETER
U
T
O
M
E
T
E
R

I've checked Autometer, they don't have SS, they have chrome which when looked at next to SS it looks like cheap plastic. I'll check out Livorsi Marine.

[vex]

For my reference:
(All Autometer fuel level sensors with adjustable Ohm readings)

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=2493&sid=2

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3913&sid=75

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3939&sid=76

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3756&sid=68

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3698&sid=57

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3469&sid=7

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3700&sid=59

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3471&sid=15

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3699&sid=60
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NVU-06129-35/?rtype=10
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NVU-69128-30/?rtype=10
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G2968/
And the other offerings from summit.

[TitaniumTT]

Here's yer damn pics!

See what I mean about the angle that the dash should be at isn't close to the angle of the back of stock dash?

Also see what I mean about the side that you need so as not to see the plastic?

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9815&stc=1&d=1299561401

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9813&stc=1&d=1299561401

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9814&stc=1&d=1299561401

[vex]

Is the angle more out of visual necessity or is it out of physical limitations?

[TitaniumTT]

Visual necessity

[vex]

In that case I'll need to hold off until I get the digi dash delivered to verify the proper angle of viewing.

[vex]

I'm waiting for Chris to get back to me, but I've verified all dimensions. If you look closely you'll see where I massaged the corners for more accurate fit with the stock dash.

[vex]

Additional Resources for the IQ3 dash:
http://www.britishspeed.com/forum/showthread.php?2616-RacePak-IQ3-Dash-install
http://www.myrobtv.com/Home/Lotus_Albums/Pages/Lotus_Dash_Install.html

[vex]

Finally heard back from the manufacturers of the Arrow Lensed LED's and they are willing to give me a small batch order, I just have to figure out shipping. Which makes the turn signal indicators really easy. Nothing more than drilling a hole and plugging in the LED.

[chibikougan]

Noice! Was it Signal-Construct directly or Conrads?

[vex]

Signal-Construct, I think (whatever a .de is... Denmark? Germany?). I have alternates available if they're unable to ship. Also there is a revision in the works to make construction easier so it can be done in a regular shop which means lower price :).

[TitaniumTT]

I like the reccessed look..

I still think it needs to be angled though.

I also think you need some sort of sides on it though.

[vex]

I'll know more tomorrow: The Digital Dash is coming in :). I don't think I'll need to angle it but I'll know for certain tomorrow. With the dash being recessed like it is the dash and LED's will all be displaying at the same level and orientation as the stock gauges which worked fine for me. However, I share your concern with the nature of LCD and being able to fully read it in various lighting conditions. I may invest in anti-glare film, but that may or may not be necessary.


As for the sides I have something planned--But it is not fully flushed out yet.

[vex]

Well... Shit just got easy.

I do not need to angle it. Stock angle looks fine. I'll be posting pictures shortly in my build thread.

[vex]

So TTT raised the issue of having sides and inclination for the dash. Well here's why I'm not concerned about it:

First you start with a regular dash surround.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9868&d=1300077851

Then you slowly cut out the dash pieces without damaging the surround:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9869&d=1300077869

Now take a trip to the fabric store and pick up some headliner and some glue. Once you have those make sure you get good measurements and trim to fit in some headliner:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9870&d=1300077887

You'll also need to do the top side. I chose to do this piece originally in two cuts, but for whatever reason the cut was too large so I had to trim it.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9871&d=1300077907

So, there you go. The start of the dash surround and the dash ;)

I'm still waiting on the buttons, LED's, and Plexi glass. I will be finalizing the design of the dash soon enough, but I think even TTT will splooge on this dash (I still need to order the Fuel level gauge).

[TitaniumTT]

Nicely done, nicely done indeed :iconT_up:

I see you've managed to get some sides in there :rofl:

[vex]

I'll tell you one thing. Cutting out the dash plate was painful as hell. I didn't want to risk damaging the surround so I had to do it using a pen knife and patience... Now my hands are raw and sore. Also, headliner glue is expensive and smells.

[TitaniumTT]

Die grinder?

3M Super 77 Adhesive? Shit has always been awesome for me

[vex]

I would have used the die grinder if I didn't care about the surround, but I would rather do it accurately with a pen knife rather than risk the damage. Welp, off to bed. Long day tomorrow.

[vex]

Received the buttons; they are top quality. Really, really, really nice.

[tweiss3]

Pics or ban

[vex]

I don't have any pictures worth showing. The buttons are listed on page 3 or 4, but they are tits nice. The body is stainless steel and the voltage restrictions are perfect for automotive constraints: LED's a pre-wired/setup for 3.5/5.5/12 v dc while the switch components are setup to handle up to 24v dc.

[vex]

Started setting up the vinyl. it's looking pretty good now. Pictures will come later on. Glue takes 24-72 hours to fully set, which means I have to take it in steps; I'm working on the upper bar of the surround. I also will begin work on the dash itself this weekend.

:)

[TitaniumTT]

Vex admitted to me through PM's that he is going to use his new found vagina power to channel his inner seemstress into this project ;)

[vex]

TTT... You're a bastard.

Martha Stewart would be proud:

[vex]

This is the vinyl I'm using. It's called "Whisper Black" and runs about $20 a yard. It's really nice however and well worth the price. This is the texture and shine of the vinyl with a flash taken at point-blank range.

[TitaniumTT]

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9898&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1300158814

dude.... WHAT THE FUCK ARE THOSE!!!!! At least get some beatup bessy clamps, or go to the chepot and get the spring clamps for $.99 each before thinking about posting a pic like that on the internet to just further the rumor that your vagina is spreading to your head and allowing you to use what look like hairclips while doing seemstress work!!! :smilielol5::rofl::lol::rofl::smilielol5:

[TitaniumTT]

In all seriousness though, it looks good. I like how you're sewing the fold into the bottom.

[vex]

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9898&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1300158814

dude.... WHAT THE FUCK ARE THOSE!!!!! At least get some beatup bessy clamps, or go to the chepot and get the spring clamps for $.99 each before thinking about posting a pic like that on the internet to just further the rumor that your vagina is spreading to your head and allowing you to use what look like hairclips while doing seemstress work!!! :smilielol5::rofl::lol::rofl::smilielol5:

Plastic paper clips. I sort of spaced it when it came time to glue, and rather sit there for the minutes and hours it takes to set I asked the woman if she had any paper clips (I don't have any). That's what she brought me, that's what works, that's what I used.

[tweiss3]

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9898&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1300158814

dude.... What the fuck are those!!!!! At least get some beatup bessy clamps, or go to the chepot and get the spring clamps for $.99 each before thinking about posting a pic like that on the internet to just further the rumor that your vagina is spreading to your head and allowing you to use what look like hairclips while doing seemstress work!!! :smilielol5::rofl::lol::rofl::smilielol5:

+105241551423

[vex]

I did a test fit with the stock dash surround for both fit and finish. As you can see, the test fit performed well. Neither color overpowers the other, and they both have a dull aged feel to them (I am not currently planning on wrapping the stock surround--but I may consider it when I reupholster the entire dash, but this will not happen until I figure out how to do proper seam accents and seams for that matter with red thread as to match my shifter boot).

Also note that the lower portion of the digi-dash surround is not glued taut yet. That should happen later today if it all goes according to plan. The buttons are pictured below. The only grip I have (the only one) is that the blue buttons are actually above the ring while the red is not. I honestly wish the red mimicked the blue in that respect, but I'm fine with all of them :).

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9901&stc=1&d=1300200520

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9902&stc=1&d=1300200520

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9903&stc=1&d=1300200520

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9904&stc=1&d=1300200520

[tweiss3]

Those buttons look nicer in those pictures than the sales pictures

[vex]

:lol: TTT is lazy. :rofl:

[TitaniumTT]

Effiecient!!! DAMNIT!!! Not Lazy, effiecent! Quicker to have them already loaded than to have to click on each one, wait for it to load etc etc etc....

[vex]

My camera on my phone sucks, so I didn't think people would WANT to look at the big pictures unless there was something that really piqued their interest, but cest-le-vi.

I'm starting the lower portion edge wrapping.

[TitaniumTT]

You speak french too? Evidence is really piling up huh :ghey: Just kidding, I actually took 6 years of french through middle and high-school.... damned if I remember anything that wouldn't get me slapped :rofl:

[tweiss3]

lmao

overall, i think it all looks good so far

[vex]

You speak french too? Evidence is really piling up huh :ghey: Just kidding, I actually took 6 years of french through middle and high-school.... damned if I remember anything that wouldn't get me slapped :rofl:

Nope. Never took French, nor do I speak it above the normal English clichés.

Actually forgot to put in the update:
So I went home and attempted to get the lower portion glued down. The trouble is that when I removed the plastic cover I didn't remove the mounting points, so I was unable to get a good glue surface. So I ended up stitching it like a blind man stitching a hatchet wound while drunk. The end result on the vinyl surface turned out really, really, good (pics will come), while the stitch work... leaves a lot to be desired.

[vex]

So I got some pictures for everyone to giggle about.

For TTT's sake:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9905&d=1300225349
You'll notice that towards the front (the upper edge in the picture) you see a few indents along the edge. This comes from the mounting platforms where the clear acrylic plastic went, and this is also something to be aware of in case anyone is planning on doing this themselves.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9906&d=1300225367
Notice that there are no wrinkles in the vinyl and it is all glued down to ensure adequate durability for wiping and cleaning. The leading edge indents and what not are clearly visible in this picture.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9907&d=1300225392
This is the drivers perspective. You'll notice that you can't see any of the indents, which is what I was hoping for, and I think turned out well enough.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9908&d=1300225415
The right side. The 'bump' that you see is an optical illusion. It is not there.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9909&d=1300225429
Same as the right side.

[vex]

When test fitting the entire unit with the dash surround I noticed something that is good to know in case anyone else is planning on doing this.

Notice that there is a 'gap' from where the clear acrylic would be if it had not been removed (I really need a better camera):
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9910&d=1300225543

Never mind the ship rigging underneath the dash, focus on the 'gap' or as it's technically called, the raging crevice of idiocy:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9911&d=1300225558

For more contrast I put a scrap piece of vinyl with the clothe side out so you can better see how much it's actually short by:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9912&d=1300225574

So if anyone is planning on doing this and would like to do it better than me; build up the leading edge to remedy the gap that you will encounter if you do not, also remove the mounting location for the clear acrylic. By doing this you will avoid the gap as well as be able to glue the vinyl down so it's more uniform.

Here's a completed shot of the Digital Dash surround when it is fully wrapped:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9913&d=1300225595

Here's a shot of the under 'rigging' (I was thinking I should have pulled a TTT and done some nautical rigging underneath it... but I didn't because I was lazy and in a rush).

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9914&d=1300225627

So... any thoughts or comments?

More on the gap: It will not be seen while you're driving, but does leave space enough for the possibility of accent lighting if I chose to go that route. However, I think if I had to do it over again, I would have built up the leading edge by either using epoxy or cutting the clear acrylic leaving the boarder/boundary of it.

[vex]

Since the surround is done I thought it wise to begin mocking up all the pieces as best I can on the table. Here's what I came up with:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9915&stc=1&d=1300237311The signals need to come down and out while the gauge needs to move in. The buttons can stand to be moved closer to the dash as well, and I even had the thought of placing them on the surround (the piece that was just covered)--but have since talked myself out of it as I wouldn't want the LED's to cast light in that location.

Here's what the buttons look like illuminated. If anyone has any further alterations they wish to suggest feel free to post them.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9916&stc=1&d=1300237311
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9917&stc=1&d=1300237311
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9918&stc=1&d=1300237311

[tweiss3]

looking like its coming together well

[Mazdabater]

Fuck this is really making me wanna buy one of these. Suppose I should get the car running first though! Looks awesome man!

[TitaniumTT]

Damn, those switchs are pretty badass! What are thier purpose?

[vex]

Blue switches function as the dash buttons (ie, dash setup as well as gauge page selection). The red switch functions as the recalibration button for the innovate wideband o2 sensor. I've toyed with the idea of picking up another button for the datalog activation switch... but for some reason I talked myself out of it.

[vex]

Got the fuel level gauge in today so I decided to mock it up to verify that I need to move the gauge over a little bit. Here's what the gauge looks like:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9922&stc=1&d=1300335901
I like how the LED and colors came out. Both the buttons and the gauge have the same blue and red color.

Here's the gauge without the illumination:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9923&stc=1&d=1300335901

I think the gauge could stand to come towards the IQ3 by about a 1/16 of an inch. What do you guys think?

[chibikougan]

It does look a little sad all alone over there. I would have to agree.

[vex]

I did an in-car mock up and found out a few things.

You'll notice I still haven't moved the fuel gauge over any (that will be coming here shortly). This is also with the picture taken in my field of vision or in other words directly in my line of site of the IQ3. The angle looks spot on to me.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9935&stc=1&d=1300397537

This is my attempt at getting the view of where my eyes are. Of course this is not a 1:1 translation, but you get a good idea of the visible angle and what not.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9936&stc=1&d=1300397537

Now this is where it starts to get a little aggravating to me.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9937&stc=1&d=1300397537
You can see the cut in the vinyl. But the issue isn't with the vinyl wrapped surround. Watch what happens when I push the dash bezel to it's proper location:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9938&stc=1&d=1300397537
Looks absolutely perfect right? Well... The fix is going to be harder than it looks and I would definitely appreciate some input on how to go about it (will be coming in another post).

Here's a view with the steering wheel, just to ensure everything is easy to read, easy to get to, and at the proper angle.
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9939&stc=1&d=1300397537

[vex]

Similar to the picture above, this one is taken where my eyes would normally be.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9940&stc=1&d=1300398024
You can see my thumb is still holding the dash in the proper location. This is because of the following issue with the in-car dash itself:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9941&stc=1&d=1300398024
Note the broken mounting tab. That is the only thing keeping this dash from looking absolutely perfect. I am open to suggestions on how to repair, replace, fix, or otherwise make it better than a broken piece of plastic. The other side is just as bad:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9942&stc=1&d=1300398024

My thoughts on how to fix those tabs is to use some epoxy and some plexi-glass that I have coming to build up virgin material. Mark where the holes fall on the dash and drill the mounting hole. I would then place a metal clip to sandwich the plastic and secure the bezel to the dash. What are your thoughts? Good? Bad? Alternate?

[vex]

The dash underwent a major re-design: The dash is no longer a complicated two piece assembly, but is now a simple 6 piece assembly (see attached for better understanding). I have moved the turn signal locations down and out, moved the buttons closer to the IQ3, moved the fuel gauge closer to the IQ3 as well, and re-arranged the attachment points for the rivets. The result is an easier to produce dash (as in you could probably build this in your garage with some sheet aluminum or steel and a few tools), which I shall be doing this weekend :).

[tweiss3]

i like that better actually

[vex]

I'm getting tired of mocking up, finding something wrong, and going back and fixing it only to mock it up again and find something else wrong.


























That's why I got it right this time and did a full mock up (each piece cut and used according to the digital model). Will be mocking it up in the car tomorrow... as well actually building it :) I even bought new tools to mark the occasion.

[Mazdabater]

She's lookin sweet vex

[TitaniumTT]

Similar to the picture above, this one is taken where my eyes would normally be.

You can see my thumb is still holding the dash in the proper location. This is because of the following issue with the in-car dash itself:

Note the broken mounting tab. That is the only thing keeping this dash from looking absolutely perfect. I am open to suggestions on how to repair, replace, fix, or otherwise make it better than a broken piece of plastic. The other side is just as bad:

My thoughts on how to fix those tabs is to use some epoxy and some plexi-glass that I have coming to build up virgin material. Mark where the holes fall on the dash and drill the mounting hole. I would then place a metal clip to sandwich the plastic and secure the bezel to the dash. What are your thoughts? Good? Bad? Alternate?

Take a piece of .063" sheet steel and some G5 epoxy. Cut the sheet steel to size and drill the dash. Epxoy the sheet steel to the dash and screw it in place. Put suround on, mark hole, drill pilot hole, screw in, ?????, profit, post up TTT is always right after it's done. This repair has served me well for 8 yrs now??

I'm getting tired of mocking up, finding something wrong, and going back and fixing it only to mock it up again and find something else wrong.


























That's why I got it right this time and did a full mock up (each piece cut and used according to the digital model). Will be mocking it up in the car tomorrow... as well actually building it :) I even bought new tools to mark the occasion.



Welcome to the world of fabrication. Think of how my buddy Colin feels, everytime he fits something, he has to drive cross town to my place to modify it, then back to his place. I wish I had the room to just tow his car over here.


And listen... I'm not going to tell you again about the pics :rofl:

[project86]

Looks pretty good. I had an idea similar to this. This will be helpful if i decide to go digital.

[vex]

So, it looks like I won't need to go about fixing those mount clips. At least not yet. :)

I also have it completed in aluminum. I would highly recommend getting this water jetted or using a plasma cutter (I finally used one today and it's very nice).

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9971&d=1300590819

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9972&d=1300590819

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9973&d=1300590819

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9974&d=1300590819

[tweiss3]

Someone's gona get a spanking over attached images................

[vex]

Bahahahahahaha. Doubt it.

Anyways, I've begun looking over the stock dash and realizing I'm going to be pulling a lot more than I originally thought from it. First and foremost I will be taking the Buzzer from the stock dash and integrating it onto my new one. I know, I know, people hate it, but I can't tell you the number of times it's saved my car. I'll actually will be hooking it up to use the output wire from the Gauge dash to yell at me if

a warning occurs
I hit the shift point (who needs an oversized shift light?)
and to have the stock warnings yell at me in case I don't see them


I've already begun depinning the stock hook ups for the dash and will be using that miniature harness to hook up to everything I need. I will be getting a 12V switched, 2 grounds, and a slew of everything else. This should prove very beneficial and will post up pictures as soon as I do the plug crimping for everything.

In the meantime I have started a thread concerning the Speed Sensor within the dash in the 2nd gen forum. For those who have the answer, please post it there. Thanks.

[vex]

:lol: :rofl: :lol: :rofl: :lol: :rofl:

So signal-construct sent me out a nice little package with some nice signal LED's. I wasn't sure if they were going to make it out at all as they didn't respond or let me know that they were shipped, so I went ahead and bought some LED bezels for the dash.

I toned down the Blue led I bought so it's not as blinding, but you can still see it. The greens didn't need much work, but they improved significantly when I mounted them in the bezel.

I like the signal construct from the point of view of being clear and indicative. I may have to see which looks better when I drill the holes for them (I specifically avoided drilling or making any of the indication holes so I could ensure proper fitment).

I'll snap a few pictures for everyones amusement.

[vex]

So here are a few pictures. Which ones do people prefer?

Brights indication:
Light A
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10006&stc=1&d=1300746757
Light B
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10007&stc=1&d=1300746757
Which bezel seems better to fit the state of the dash?
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10008&stc=1&d=1300746757

Turn Signal indicators:
Light A
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10009&stc=1&d=1300746757
Light B
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10010&stc=1&d=1300746757
Bezels are the same as above pretty much.

[vex]

Oh look it's made out of aluminum right now... I need to clean off the dye still... after I drill the indicator holes :)


http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10011&stc=1&d=1300746989

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10012&stc=1&d=1300746989

[chibikougan]

Lookin good. I really like the arrows.

[tweiss3]

Those arrows are sweet, but they seem kinda excessively bright

[vex]

That's the camera. Both indicator lights are not all that bright (think of the same or less intensity of the stock indicators).

[tweiss3]

gotcha

[vex]

It's the weekend, and I'm going to be finishing up the dash and getting it ready for parts installation (gauge, buttons, etc). I will be drilling the indicator holes and wrapping it :). In fact, I've already started wrapping the holder portion of the dash as you can see below. I also made a mount for the buzzer, so now my dash can yell at me in the stock voice. The mount is just cut and filed acrylic so I can press fit the buzzer in. I will be wiring it using duetch connectors because I'm a whore, as will most of the dash indicators, buttons, and gauge will be wired using duetch connectors.

[vex]

So... This is one of the last updates to the thread (there might be one more concerning wiring up the switches and what not, and lessons learned). Enjoy and feel free to ask any questions :)

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10071&stc=1&d=1301204333
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10072&stc=1&d=1301204333

[tweiss3]

Very nice

[Jwteknix]

Awsome piece man.
Im doing a stock cluster with aftermarket guages for now, I have been throwing around idea for the racepack in the futher, here what I have now.
I will definatly be making something similar someday.
Thanks for sharing,
James

[vex]

just out of curiosity how many people would like a dash similar to this one where you assemble and wrap it yourself? This means you'd get the main plate with the gauge hole, buttons holes, and indicator holes (that includes the brights) predrilled, as well as the support plate and s-bracket predrilled for pop-rivits.

I ask because if enough people are interested I'll go get a quote for a limited production run and have the pieces waterjetted. Price would be Dependant upon the quote. This means if it costs $150 for 10 units than I'll probably charge around $18+shipping. If it's more; for instance $500 for 10 units than I'll probably charge around $60+shipping.

[speedjunkie]

I don't imagine it would cost much more than $150 to get that design waterjetted, if that much. The guy I go to out here did a LIM spacer for me (LIM to block) and he charged $120 and said it would be MUCH cheaper for each one after. Not sure what prices would be with your guy though.

I like the end result btw. I'm not sure about the puffyness lol, but it looks good none-the-less.

[project86]

did you just use adhesive to keep the excess vinyl stuck to the back of the panel?

[vex]

I don't imagine it would cost much more than $150 to get that design waterjetted, if that much. The guy I go to out here did a LIM spacer for me (LIM to block) and he charged $120 and said it would be MUCH cheaper for each one after. Not sure what prices would be with your guy though.

I like the end result btw. I'm not sure about the puffyness lol, but it looks good none-the-less.
I'm planning on using that fabrication website I posted awhile ago to get the quote. That's really the determining factor of the final cost. I would like to see 10 people at least before doing this, that way the price will be cheaper overall.

Puffiness isn't as bad as it looks in the pictures. It's basically headliner foam which is less than a 1/4 inch thick.
did you just use adhesive to keep the excess vinyl stuck to the back of the panel?

yes. I was recommended an adhesive to use when I went to the fabric store.

[project86]

ok just thought id double check. I wasnt sure if maybe there was a different way you decided to attach it since you were mounting it to alum. i have some nice 3M adhesive that should do the trick.

[Jwteknix]

id purchase one but would like it blank, Id like to drill my guage and button holes to take advantage of the space and put more guages in it

[vex]

I could do that. Just only put in the digi-dash location, mounting screw locations, and pop-rivet holes. Would that work out better for everyone?

Running tally of those interested thus far: 2

[vex]

So I have one quote getting sent out to me for different production runs. I have removed the indicator holes, the button holes, and the gauge hole from this quote. I've also increased the overall width of the IQ3/digital dash hole on the front plate by 1/16 of an inch on each side to aid in those who desire to wrap the dash. Depending on the quote I get back from them I'll have a better idea of what everything will cost to make happen.

When that quote gets back to me I'll put in for a quote from the rfq website and see who can get the better deal.

[project86]

sounds good. I like the idea of just having the racepack hole only plus mounting points etc... what are the buttons for in yours?

[vex]

The two buttons closest to the dash are for the dash itself (change pages, change options, etc). The button on the far right is for the Wideband calibration and status.

[project86]

did those buttons come with the racepack or is that something you rigged up?>

[vex]

I rigged 'em up. You can buy any momentary switch you want. I just chose those ones since it's going to be my daily and I have to look at 'em day in and day out. :lol:

[project86]

i like your choice :D haha

[MaczPayne]

I may be interested :)

[vex]

Total count: 3

[project86]

come on guys lets get these made!!! lol

[vex]

I have put out quote requests for various runs and await their responses. We'll soon have a better idea of what this is all going to cost.

[project86]

haha.. we need a "like this post" button :suspect:

[vex]

Well... While we wait for those quotes to come back to me. Here's some teaser pics :)

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10153&d=1301791090
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10149&d=1301791022

[project86]

That looks super clean. Factory really.

[project86]

Vex are you running Haltech?

[vex]

Yes

[TitaniumTT]

I've started another trend :rofl:

[vex]

And what trend is this? :lol:

[TitaniumTT]

Proper dashes and no redundant senders/extra potential leak points

[vex]

Oh I thought you were talking about spending tons of money on a dash and then skimping on the holder :p

In more relevant news:

can you tell me what your lowest price your willing to pay for each set. ill try to beat it .. contact me @
MzXXXXXXX@aol.com

I haven't gotten any quotes but that one, and even then I don't even know what to say about it. I'm thinking maybe $20 a set... but that barely covers the cost of materials. So... $30 a set? What do you guys think?

[project86]

$30 sounds fair.

[Jwteknix]

id pay it

[vex]

Okay, I have an official quote from one location for getting these cuts. Using those numbers (not saying I will) I can get these out to people from $75+shipping to $220+shipping to your door (in other words if I do go with this company the more people who order the better). The number of the total order is the driving factor in price.

The s-clamps will need to be bent (which can be done using a vise or even some good vise-grips).

[project86]

so how many people do we need to get the price to 75?

[vex]

30

I'm still waiting to hear from other persons considering the job.

[project86]

dang thats a few people.

[vex]

Ohhh, another person is looking at gettin' a quote sent to me :). Might have 3 quotes by the end of the week :)

[project86]

awesome. the more the merrier!

[vex]

I have another unofficial quote, and it's very nice :) I'll be posting updated prices in a few.

[vex]

So here are the 'unofficial' prices to get a dash blank to your door:

Depending on the number of people who are interested:
05: $31+shipping
10: $20+shipping (I did it this way for uniformity in display)
15: $20+shipping
20: $17+shipping

Current number of people interested: 3.

For prices like these I would assume individuals who are planning on running any digital dash or who already have one would want to pick a set up.

I'm going to be making a thread in the group buy section so more individuals can see it.

[project86]

sounds great. i have the cash ready to paypal;)!!

[MaczPayne]

Same

[vex]

I'm still waiting on one more quote to get back to me. I'll give them until Sunday to do it, and if they don't get back to me then 'oh, well.' I would like to see at least two more people show interest in it before initiating the group buy (speaking of which, I'm still waiting on one of the mods/admins to approve the group buy I attempted to post). So spread the word (this is an RCC exclusive so if they want to get in on it, they'll have to join or know someone who is a member here).

[project86]

Vex youre running a Haltech no? Im looking on the Racepak site and i cant find out if there are compatibility issues with using the digi dash with certain ECUs.

[vex]

Yup, I'm running a Haltech Platinum series.

There shouldn't be much of an issue so long as the ECU has a CAN bus. The place to check would be the Racepak forum:

http://www.racepak.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=4&sid=903e5fe9d0369879e7542e186c9366df

[project86]

ok.. ive been thinking about MoTeC and im pretty sure they all have CAN bus.

[vex]

Yeah, motec's should be able to run it without issue, though I would check with Ludwig/TTT to make sure.

[project86]

Thanks will do.

Any new word on the mounts?

[vex]

Still waiting on the official quote to get back to me (prices should be the same). Once that happens I'll PM/post up what you guys need to paypal me.

I'll also probably do a more 'universal' dash in the not too distant future (no precut hole for the digital dash) for individuals that want to run circular gauges like Autometer,Defi, or Prosport. I'll need to build up my reserves first however. We'll see how it all plays out.

[project86]

cool. sounds like a plan.

[vex]

Good news; Official Quote is in!

[project86]

Good news; Official Quote is in!


and the winner is ????:willy_nilly:

[vex]

Prices are are the one's I told you about.

It will be made out of 5000 series aluminum.

[project86]

Depending on the number of people who are interested:
05: $31+shipping
10: $20+shipping (I did it this way for uniformity in display)
15: $20+shipping
20: $17+shipping

.

these prices??

[vex]

Yup. Those are them.

Should we do an official group buy for 'em now?

(Just for reference some of the other quotes I was getting were around $200 a set for under 5. I think these are fantastic prices and one's individuals should pick up on if they're going digital)

[project86]

ya man set up a group buy and put me down as numero uno

[vex]

Sorry I've slacked on this guys. I'll update in the coming weeks. And may start taking orders for the group buy.